Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-18 Thread Jon Agne
Precisely what happened with my 3 MTC mono-valves.  All it takes is a pinhole.

Jon

 On Apr 17, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Coolant gets past the sealing and into the moving parts of the valve.  This
 causes the valve to get somewhat hydrolocked and not pulse open and closed
 properly, resulting it too much or too little heat.

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
I appreciate the confidence in my talents.  Now if y'all will 
kickstartgofundme to buy a CNC milling machine I will get right to it.  
I bought one of those replacement cartridges from Jabba for one of the 
SDs for my daughter to replace but I don't know if she did it yet or not 
-- I think I had replaced it a coupla years ago too.  And yes it was 
cheepchineechit then and now too I guess.


--R



On 4/18/15 1:34 AM, G Mann wrote:

I second that nomination !  .. hahaha..

Amazing how painless that was... for me..



On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com wrote:


With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,

somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a CNC
machining program to make a better part from a block of something
invincible.


Sounds like a project for Rich!  Should we volunteer him?

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-18 Thread G Mann
Why own a CNC ?  Just build the program for the part and rent production
time. There are loads of small [relatively] shops that have excess
machinery capacity now because the economy is in the tank. Production
demand is down, but the machine sets there costing space and money..

I'm on several machinery auction lists, every day there is another shop
doing a bankruptcy sale because they couldn't get enough orders to keep the
machines busy.

Rent time, make parts, sell them..

Unfortunately, for the rubber part, it would require a set of molds. Last
time I had a mold set made, it ran a bit over $120,000, so recovery costs
would require volume production and sales. Yet, there is likely a work
around on that, I just haven't thought of it yet.

On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 7:01 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I appreciate the confidence in my talents.  Now if y'all will
 kickstartgofundme to buy a CNC milling machine I will get right to it.  I
 bought one of those replacement cartridges from Jabba for one of the SDs
 for my daughter to replace but I don't know if she did it yet or not -- I
 think I had replaced it a coupla years ago too.  And yes it was
 cheepchineechit then and now too I guess.

 --R



 On 4/18/15 1:34 AM, G Mann wrote:

 I second that nomination !  .. hahaha..

 Amazing how painless that was... for me..



 On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,

 somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a
 new
 design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

 This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
 happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a
 CNC
 machining program to make a better part from a block of something
 invincible.

  Sounds like a project for Rich!  Should we volunteer him?

 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-18 Thread Rich Thomas
I have seen some instructable-type things on making molds for rubber or 
silicone bits, I would think with a CNC machine that it would not be too 
hard to do it, and to bodge up some injection equipment.


--R


On 4/18/15 12:24 PM, G Mann wrote:

Why own a CNC ?  Just build the program for the part and rent production
time. There are loads of small [relatively] shops that have excess
machinery capacity now because the economy is in the tank. Production
demand is down, but the machine sets there costing space and money..

I'm on several machinery auction lists, every day there is another shop
doing a bankruptcy sale because they couldn't get enough orders to keep the
machines busy.

Rent time, make parts, sell them..

Unfortunately, for the rubber part, it would require a set of molds. Last
time I had a mold set made, it ran a bit over $120,000, so recovery costs
would require volume production and sales. Yet, there is likely a work
around on that, I just haven't thought of it yet.

On Sat, Apr 18, 2015 at 7:01 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


I appreciate the confidence in my talents.  Now if y'all will
kickstartgofundme to buy a CNC milling machine I will get right to it.  I
bought one of those replacement cartridges from Jabba for one of the SDs
for my daughter to replace but I don't know if she did it yet or not -- I
think I had replaced it a coupla years ago too.  And yes it was
cheepchineechit then and now too I guess.

--R



On 4/18/15 1:34 AM, G Mann wrote:


I second that nomination !  .. hahaha..

Amazing how painless that was... for me..



On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
wrote:

  With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,

somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a
new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a
CNC
machining program to make a better part from a block of something
invincible.

  Sounds like a project for Rich!  Should we volunteer him?

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Jon Agne
I went through 3 chinese junk monovalves when I first got my 300D.  Rusty 
finally sent me a real MB part, and it’s worked perfectly for the past 3 years. 
 I also went through 2 chinese (junk) aux pumps at the same time.  The motor 
tends to separate from the pump spraying coolant all over your engine 
compartment.

Buy original MB parts.

Jon


 On Apr 16, 2015, at 8:45 PM, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my '84 300D  '85 
 300TD a few weeks back and found them to be Chinese junk, as the one where I 
 opened the package had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such 
 that it was a very difficult fit and didn't work at all so I sent 'em back 
 and received a refund.  Now that I've found only one of my mono-valves is 
 bad, I would like to find a reputable source for the correct (i.e., good) 
 mono-valves.  Suggestions?
 
 See ya', stay healthy all.
 
 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Jim Cathey
had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such that it was a 
very difficult fit and didn't work at all


The MTC I ended up with didn't fit either.  I removed the
circlip from the ends of both and transferred the rubber/screen
part from the MTC to the bad one that came out of the
car.  It then fit, and so far seems to be working.

The MTC _looked_ identical to what came out of the car,
but obviously the QC on the dimensioning was not so good.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Jon Agne
Forgot to mention:

Tom Hanson (thomas.han...@mbusa.com mailto:thomas.han...@mbusa.com) at the MB 
Classic Center is a great resource.  If you are a member of the MBCA, you get a 
discount.  

His number is: (949) 598-4842


 On Apr 16, 2015, at 8:45 PM, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my '84 300D  '85 
 300TD a few weeks back and found them to be Chinese junk, as the one where I 
 opened the package had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such 
 that it was a very difficult fit and didn't work at all so I sent 'em back 
 and received a refund.  Now that I've found only one of my mono-valves is 
 bad, I would like to find a reputable source for the correct (i.e., good) 
 mono-valves.  Suggestions?
 
 See ya', stay healthy all.
 
 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
 
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Yep, MB parts only in this case.  Bosch stopped making them so a new
supplier stepped in, with a higher price.

The Chinese ones are junk, as you discovered.

Jaime


On Thursday, April 16, 2015, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:

 I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my '84 300D  '85
 300TD a few weeks back and found them to be Chinese junk, as the one where
 I opened the package had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such
 that it was a very difficult fit and didn't work at all so I sent 'em back
 and received a refund.  Now that I've found only one of my mono-valves is
 bad, I would like to find a reputable source for the correct (i.e., good)
 mono-valves.  Suggestions?

 See ya', stay healthy all.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC

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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Curly McLain

With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a CNC
machining program to make a better part from a block of something
invincible.


Sounds like a project for Rich!  Should we volunteer him?

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread G Mann
I second that nomination !  .. hahaha..

Amazing how painless that was... for me..



On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
 somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
 design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

 This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
 happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a CNC
 machining program to make a better part from a block of something
 invincible.


 Sounds like a project for Rich!  Should we volunteer him?

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
I think the issue with the MTC (Chinese) parts are the rubber quality.
Coolant gets past the sealing and into the moving parts of the valve.  This
causes the valve to get somewhat hydrolocked and not pulse open and closed
properly, resulting it too much or too little heat.

The failure of an original part was a tear in the rubber at its thinnest
section, resulting in the same.

Jaime


On Friday, April 17, 2015, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com wrote:

 had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such that it was a very
 difficult fit and didn't work at all


 The MTC I ended up with didn't fit either.  I removed the
 circlip from the ends of both and transferred the rubber/screen
 part from the MTC to the bad one that came out of the
 car.  It then fit, and so far seems to be working.

 The MTC _looked_ identical to what came out of the car,
 but obviously the QC on the dimensioning was not so good.

 -- Jim


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http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread Rick Knoble
Jaime wrote:

‎I think the issue with the MTC (Chinese) parts are the rubber quality.

Unfortunately, that statement is applicable to ALL rubber parts made in China, 
not just mono-valve inserts. Parts (and tools) manufactured in Taiwan are of a 
much higher quality than those coming from mainland China. 

Rick 

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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-17 Thread G Mann
With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.

This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point. Surely, it would be worth writing a CNC
machining program to make a better part from a block of something
invincible.

On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 7:47 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I think the issue with the MTC (Chinese) parts are the rubber quality.
 Coolant gets past the sealing and into the moving parts of the valve.  This
 causes the valve to get somewhat hydrolocked and not pulse open and closed
 properly, resulting it too much or too little heat.

 The failure of an original part was a tear in the rubber at its thinnest
 section, resulting in the same.

 Jaime


 On Friday, April 17, 2015, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com wrote:

  had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such that it was a very
  difficult fit and didn't work at all
 
 
  The MTC I ended up with didn't fit either.  I removed the
  circlip from the ends of both and transferred the rubber/screen
  part from the MTC to the bad one that came out of the
  car.  It then fit, and so far seems to be working.
 
  The MTC _looked_ identical to what came out of the car,
  but obviously the QC on the dimensioning was not so good.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 

 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] mono-valve source

2015-04-16 Thread Curly McLain
I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my '84 300D 
 '85 300TD a few weeks back and found them to be Chinese junk, as 
the one where I opened the package had a different diameter to the 
cylindrical shaft such that it was a very difficult fit and didn't 
work at all so I sent 'em back and received a refund.  Now that I've 
found only one of my mono-valves is bad, I would like to find a 
reputable source for the correct (i.e., good) mono-valves. 
Suggestions?


See ya', stay healthy all.

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
 			  


MB stealers who advertise in the star, or the classic center.  OE 
only for that part.


Or buy a 240D with REAL heater controls!

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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve pigtail

2013-09-13 Thread Gary Hurst
y'know, i could use that money!

esh is super rich.  he's got a place in brooksville.  he won't miss it!



On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 10:02 PM, Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.comwrote:

 Mike.
 Enjoy.
 Gary.
 It was gratis/pro bono, just not that kind of bono.
 You sexy beast!

 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.



 
  From: Mike Esh michael...@mac.com
 To: Okie Benz mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 9:32 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Mono valve pigtail
 
 
 Thanks Fred!  Pigtail arrived today and is exactly what I need. Please
 let me how much money to send you and how you would like me to send it.
 Thank you very much.
 
 Michael E. Esh
 231-286-2344
 
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*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars

*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve pigtail

2013-09-13 Thread Gary Hurst
oddly, he wishes for you to send ME $1250USD.  i don't get it myself but
that is what he wants


On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 9:32 PM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:

 Thanks Fred!  Pigtail arrived today and is exactly what I need. Please let
 me how much money to send you and how you would like me to send it.
 Thank you very much.

 Michael E. Esh
 231-286-2344


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-- 
*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars

*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve pigtail

2013-09-13 Thread Frederick Moir
Mike.
Enjoy.
Gary.
It was gratis/pro bono, just not that kind of bono.
You sexy beast!
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Mike Esh michael...@mac.com
To: Okie Benz mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 9:32 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Mono valve pigtail
 

Thanks Fred!  Pigtail arrived today and is exactly what I need. Please let me 
how much money to send you and how you would like me to send it. 
Thank you very much. 

Michael E. Esh
231-286-2344

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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mitch Haley

Jim Cathey wrote:

No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between.  


Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a dwell 
meter?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Dan Penoff
I believe a dwell meter would give you an average of the duty cycle, so you 
would see as it increased or decreased.

Essentially, the signal is a square wave with the time being varied to control 
the flow of coolant through the valve.

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 1, 2011, at 6:50 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Jim Cathey wrote:
 No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
 for in between.  
 
 Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a dwell 
 meter?
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Jim Cathey
Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a 
dwell meter?


Neither, I think.  It's right at that in-between stage
where a regular meter can't really keep up, yet is too
slow for the typical (?) dwell meter.  I found that a 12V
test lamp worked perfectly.  Just watch it blink on and off.
The fast-reacting analog gauge on a Fluke DMM tracked it
OK, but wasn't nearly as easy to keep track of as the lamp.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Dec 1, 2011 6:51 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:


 slow for the typical (?) dwell meter.  I found that a 12V
 test lamp worked perfectly.  Just watch it blink on and off.

But a 'scope is so much more fun!

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
Jim,
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get 
the same readings I did with the multimeter.  I did not get blinking lights at 
any settings, solid on, solid off.  I hooked up five different control boxes 
and got the same results.  
I am at a loss.
Mike

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 12:23 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 ...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
 
 No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
 for in between.  If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
 problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
 (Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback plumbing, etc.)
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
I tried five different control units.  I cleaned each one with contact cleaner. 
 Could they all be bad?


Michael E. Esh


On Nov 30, 2011, at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Sounds like the control unit is not controlling.  Might want to take it out 
 and see if anything on it (like maybe the wheel contacts) is corroded, 
 broken, fried, worn out, whatever.
 
 --R
 
 On 11/30/11 12:24 PM, Mike Esh wrote:
 I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D.  I either get all 
 heat or all cold.  Cold only coming on when temp wheel is rotated all the 
 way to max cool.
 
 Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
 12 volts when system is off.
 
 System on any of the 3 center buttons pushed:
 12 volts when temp wheel is set to full cool or full heat.   zero volts when 
 temp dial  is moved to any other position.
 
 Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
 
 Is this correct? Any suggestions?
 
 I have replaced mono valve already.
 Thanks,
 Mike
 Michael E. Esh
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Curt Raymond
Are any of the control boxes (you mean the push button array here right?) known 
to be good? Like you can put them in another car and they for sure work?
The problem is you're suffering just about the most common failure. If all the 
boxes you're messing with are 20+ years old its quite possible for them all to 
be broken the same...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
From: Mike Esh michael...@me.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
Message-ID: 93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII

Jim,
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get 
the same readings I did with the multimeter.  I did not get blinking lights at 
any settings, solid on, solid off.  I hooked up five different control boxes 
and got the same results.  
I am at a loss.
Mike

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 12:23 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 ...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
 
 No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
 for in between.  If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
 problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
 (Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback plumbing, etc.)
 
 -- Jim
 

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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Jim Cathey
I tried five different control units.  I cleaned each one with contact 
cleaner.  Could they all be bad?


Absolutely.  The units with the little translucent AUTO switch
are EXTREMELY prone to having cracked solder joints.  As in: I've
had to fix EVERY one of them in our fleet.  Yes, every one.
Fortunately the repair is fairly easy, if you can solder.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Jim Cathey
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and 
still get the same readings I did with the multimeter.  I did not get 
blinking lights at


Taillight bulb is a bit heavy, a side-marker lamp would be
kinder and gentler.

any settings, solid on, solid off.  I hooked up five different control 
boxes and got the same results.


On our 380SL the auxiliary coolant pump is a bit noisy and you
can hear a faint 'whirr' inside the cabin.  As the monovalve cycles
on and off you can hear the pitch of the whirr change.
Whee-whirr-whee-whi...

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
Here is good conversation about mono valve voltage.  It cleared things up me 
about reading voltage to the mono valve.  Mine appears to be working correctly.

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:11 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get 
 the same readings I did with the multimeter.  I did not get blinking lights 
 at
 
 Taillight bulb is a bit heavy, a side-marker lamp would be
 kinder and gentler.
 
 any settings, solid on, solid off.  I hooked up five different control boxes 
 and got the same results.
 
 On our 380SL the auxiliary coolant pump is a bit noisy and you
 can hear a faint 'whirr' inside the cabin.  As the monovalve cycles
 on and off you can hear the pitch of the whirr change.
 Whee-whirr-whee-whi...
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
None of the pbu's are known to be good.  I am going to check mono valve 
function one more time and then order new pbu if I find nothing new.  Does 
Rusty carry these?

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 7:56 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Are any of the control boxes (you mean the push button array here right?) 
 known to be good? Like you can put them in another car and they for sure work?
 The problem is you're suffering just about the most common failure. If all 
 the boxes you're messing with are 20+ years old its quite possible for them 
 all to be broken the same...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
 From: Mike Esh michael...@me.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
 Message-ID: 93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
 
 Jim,
 I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get 
 the same readings I did with the multimeter.  I did not get blinking lights 
 at any settings, solid on, solid off.  I hooked up five different control 
 boxes and got the same results.  
 I am at a loss.
 Mike
 
 Michael E. Esh
 
 
 On Dec 1, 2011, at 12:23 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 
 ...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
 
 No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
 for in between.  If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
 problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
 (Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback plumbing, etc.)
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit?  Am I just looking for 
crack in a solder joint?

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:09 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 I tried five different control units.  I cleaned each one with contact 
 cleaner.  Could they all be bad?
 
 Absolutely.  The units with the little translucent AUTO switch
 are EXTREMELY prone to having cracked solder joints.  As in: I've
 had to fix EVERY one of them in our fleet.  Yes, every one.
 Fortunately the repair is fairly easy, if you can solder.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Rick Knoble
On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, Mike Esh michael...@me.com wrote:

 Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit?  Am I just looking 
 for crack in a solder joint?

Here is a pictorial on disassembly from Dan. I don't think it shows 
specifically cracks, but it was pretty thorough, IIRC. (can't view it on the 
iPhone for some reason). 

http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100140

BTW, do you want to part with one of the non-functioning units? I could use a 
spare. 
Rick
Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Jim Cathey

order new pbu if I find nothing new.  Does Rusty carry these?


You got a big wallet?  There's a reason that we all
either resolder them, or learn to do so.  Hey, you've
got five to learn on...

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Jim Cathey
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit?  Am I just 
looking for crack in a solder joint?


Open one up, and examine (in particular) the joints to
the side boards, which are (in contravention to all known
good soldering practice) also the mechanical support of
the side boards.  The cracks there are usually extremely
obvious.

However, often those are not the only cracked joints.
Just the most obvious ones.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-12-01 Thread Mike Esh
Yes, send me our address.

Michael E. Esh


On Dec 1, 2011, at 10:05 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, Mike Esh michael...@me.com wrote:
 
 Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit?  Am I just looking 
 for crack in a solder joint?
 
 Here is a pictorial on disassembly from Dan. I don't think it shows 
 specifically cracks, but it was pretty thorough, IIRC. (can't view it on the 
 iPhone for some reason). 
 
 http://gallery.me.com/dpenoff#100140
 
 BTW, do you want to part with one of the non-functioning units? I could use a 
 spare. 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-11-30 Thread Rich Thomas
Sounds like the control unit is not controlling.  Might want to take it 
out and see if anything on it (like maybe the wheel contacts) is 
corroded, broken, fried, worn out, whatever.


--R

On 11/30/11 12:24 PM, Mike Esh wrote:

I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D.  I either get all heat 
or all cold.  Cold only coming on when temp wheel is rotated all the way to max 
cool.

Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
12 volts when system is off.

System on any of the 3 center buttons pushed:
12 volts when temp wheel is set to full cool or full heat.   zero volts when 
temp dial  is moved to any other position.

Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.

Is this correct? Any suggestions?

I have replaced mono valve already.
Thanks,
Mike
Michael E. Esh


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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-11-30 Thread andrew strasfogel
If you remove the temperature wheel (quite easy) you can inspect for breaks
in the circuitry.  Then swap it with a temperature reel from another ACC
module.  That worked for me.

On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Sounds like the control unit is not controlling.  Might want to take it
 out and see if anything on it (like maybe the wheel contacts) is corroded,
 broken, fried, worn out, whatever.

 --R


 On 11/30/11 12:24 PM, Mike Esh wrote:

 I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D.  I either get
 all heat or all cold.  Cold only coming on when temp wheel is rotated all
 the way to max cool.

 Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
 12 volts when system is off.

 System on any of the 3 center buttons pushed:
 12 volts when temp wheel is set to full cool or full heat.   zero volts
 when temp dial  is moved to any other position.

 Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.

 Is this correct? Any suggestions?

 I have replaced mono valve already.
 Thanks,
 Mike
 Michael E. Esh


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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-11-30 Thread Fmiser
 Mike Esh wrote:

 Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
 12 volts when system is off. 

The monovalve is not controlled with a steady voltage.  12V is
switched on and off rapidly, called pulse width modulation.
That is, the more heat requested, the longer the OFF pulse and
the shorter the ON pulse.

 System on any of the 3 center buttons pushed:
 12 volts when temp wheel is set to full cool or full heat.
 zero volts when temp dial  is moved to any other position.

A DC volt meter is not a very dependable way to measure the
control signal. The measured voltage will depend on the specs.
of the meter. An oscilloscope is best.  I suppose a ignition
dwell meter would work.  Do you have one of those?

 Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.

Defrost is the fail mode.  So when there is no power to the
monovalve, and no vacuum to the servos the system will be in
full heat, defrost mode.  So this point is correct.

 Is this correct? Any suggestions?

Without an oscilloscope - or maybe a dwell meter - swapping out
parts may be the best option.  I saw an hardware kit that will
turn an iPad into a oscilloscope...

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help

2011-11-30 Thread Jim Cathey

...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.


No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat.  PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between.  If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
(Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback plumbing, etc.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve repair...

2007-01-03 Thread Allan Streib
Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Rusty has the mono valve insert...I just did mine.

Is this insert also known as the Mono Valve Repair Kit ??

  http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/R302315174BOS.JPG

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve repair...

2007-01-03 Thread Royce Engler
Yep...the thing that sticks up above the body of the valve...looks like a
steel top hat... is the top end of what you see in the picture.   The rubber
thingy on the other end is what seats the valve.  the top hat part is what
slides through the electromagnetic coil that is in the top part of the
valve body.  It's that coil that you have to be careful of when you remove
the valve insert.  Take the four screws out on the top, pull out the whole
assembly, support the coil from the bottom and push out the insert from the
top.  A little PBBlaster on it will help it slide out.   HTH...

Royce Engler

1985 300TD Turbo 295K



-Original Message-
From: Allan Streib [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 10:29 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve repair...


Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Rusty has the mono valve insert...I just did mine.

Is this insert also known as the Mono Valve Repair Kit ??

  http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/R302315174BOS.JPG

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230





Re: [MBZ] Mono valve repair...

2007-01-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yep

Allan Streib wrote:


Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:



Rusty has the mono valve insert...I just did mine.



Is this insert also known as the Mono Valve Repair Kit ??

  http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/R302315174BOS.JPG

Allan


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-07 Thread OK Don
I bought the LEDs to wire in and see what's going on. They are still
sitting on the table in the Radio Shack blister packs. I haven't dug
into the wiring diagram yet to see which wire to connect them to.
However, the ACC is now working just fine! We're preparing for a trip
to Mexico next week, so I doubt that I'll get to it till we come back.
I'll report progress as it occurs.
Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.

On 7/5/05, Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Good luck to Don, maybe he will have a report for us on his activities
 this weekend with the LED's etc.
 
 Richard
 

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-07 Thread Richard Hattaway
All computer controled auto accessories are equipped with a thought
process.  The ACC saw you comming out of the store, decided the jig was
up, and will play nice for a while.  Unfortunately, they can also read
maps and calculate distance.  So if you dont take the LED's with you,
about the time you cross the 100 mile border, the ACC will begin to act
up again.

Be prepared.. Take the blister packs..

Richard
K4PKV

--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I bought the LEDs to wire in and see what's going on. They are still
 sitting on the table in the Radio Shack blister packs. I haven't dug
 into the wiring diagram yet to see which wire to connect them to.
 However, the ACC is now working just fine! We're preparing for a trip
 to Mexico next week, so I doubt that I'll get to it till we come
 back.
 I'll report progress as it occurs.
 Thanks to everyone for the help and suggestions.
 
 On 7/5/05, Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  Good luck to Don, maybe he will have a report for us on his
 activities
  this weekend with the LED's etc.
  
  Richard
  
 
 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK 
 '87 300SDL
 '81 240D
 '78 450SLC
 


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RE: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-05 Thread Richard Hattaway
No doubt George found the copper that the Germans use was too soft to
be used with anything but his special softer brushes, eh?

For those missing the sarcasm, it is there in spades.

I got a set of Russ's brushes in the special order, and have found them
to be outstanding.  So his source, Schink Graphite, must have the
process down pretty well after learning it from an old world German
with a thick accent.

I think I am going to try 

http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm 

the next time I need brushes and see what happens.

Good luck to Don, maybe he will have a report for us on his activities
this weekend with the LED's etc.

Richard

--- Barry Stark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Russ -
 According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes
 to fit,
 it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the
 brushes
 that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones
 we
 make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
 commutator wear. That's what makes his special.
 
 Barry
 




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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-03 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

no, I have never bought anything from him, nor would I.

Barry Stark wrote:


Kaleb -
Hmmm, it seems you have a rather impressive list of personna non gratis.
:^)What was George's sin. I think you told us once before. Wasn't it
something with a servo that didn't turn out quite right?

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 8:02 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???


you dont even want to get me started on what i think about george murphy.

Russ Maki wrote:



Barry Stark wrote:



Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes
to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
commutator wear. That's what makes his special.

Barry





Sorry Barry, but I'm not buying it. As I recall, Murphy also believes
W123 CC amp failures are caused by the wrong brake light bulbs. I don't
buy that either.

Obviously, you don't want to install brushes for a vacuum cleaner motor
into a 12 volt DC motor. You want 12-volt  automotive brushes. Like the
ones that are installed in starters, alternators, power window motors
and other applications by the millions, every day, around the world.

The original brushes I replaced in a Bosch blower motor a year ago had
worn a deep notch into the commutator. If the factory originals were so
soft, I can't understand how they did all that damage.

I suspect that the big difference between the brushes George sells and
the ones everybody else sells is the price. At carbonbrush.com, they're
$6-something a pair. From Murphy they're what...$20?

I know guy's got to make a living -- mercedessource.com does a lot of
the same kind of packaging (fuse upgrade kit) and sells at a premium.
More power to 'em both. A lot of people buy from them -- I don't.

Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.



___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
  81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread OK Don
Thanks to all -

This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came. This was followed
by the center vents opening about the time i was going to turn
everything off and open the windows to let the heat out.  Nice cool
air came out the center vents for a few minutes, the they closed, and
hot air came out the other vents. Followed by cool from the center
vents again. This cycle continued all the way to work - 35 minutes, 25
miles.

This evening, the temp was 90+, and cool air blew the whole time. 

So when it should have been pulse width modulated, the mono valve
seemed to be either on or off, ro - it was on the whole time, and the
A/C was cycling. The center vents seemed to be working OK, in synch
with the A/C, but the nice transparent, even cabin temp didn't happen.
Amplifier? I'm going to install lots of voltage monitoring LEDs
tomorrow in hopes of narrowing the possibilities.



 
 Some of you may recall that I had a batch of blower motor brushes made
 up last year. After I did so I stumbled across this web site:
 http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm
 
  Judging by my invoice from Schink Graphite, brush No. 54H on the web
 page is the same width and thickness as the brushes I got from the brush
 factory. The pigtail appears to be mounted from the side of the brush
 rather than a recess at the end like the original, but since the brush
 housing in the Bosch/Behr motor has a slot in it, I'd think it ought to
 be workable.
 
 The carbonbrush.com brushes are about 1/6 inch shorter than the Schunk
 brushes. They're also priced about 75 cents cheaper. and apparently
 available in lots of less than two dozen, although I have NO experience
 doing business with this vendor. The company name, address and phone
 number is on their main web page,  http://www.carbonbrush.com/
 
 Russ Maki
 Ixonia, Wis.
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread Mitch Haley
OK Don wrote:
 
 Thanks to all -
 
 This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
 one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
 first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came. 

Temp sensor tube no longer connects the temp sensor to the cabin air?
If that happens, your CC will attempt to control the temp inside the
dash. Another idea would be an intermittent electrical failure.



RE: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread Barry Stark
Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
commutator wear. That's what makes his special.

Barry

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Russ Maki
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 8:55 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???


Richard Hattaway wrote:

Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if
found bad, or putting new brushes in it.  Our friend George Murphy has
the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other
sources as well.. (c:  New motors are expensive.  So you may want to
talk to your local motor rebuilder if budget is an issue.

Richard
K4PKV


Some of you may recall that I had a batch of blower motor brushes made
up last year. After I did so I stumbled across this web site:
http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm

 Judging by my invoice from Schink Graphite, brush No. 54H on the web
page is the same width and thickness as the brushes I got from the brush
factory. The pigtail appears to be mounted from the side of the brush
rather than a recess at the end like the original, but since the brush
housing in the Bosch/Behr motor has a slot in it, I'd think it ought to
be workable.

The carbonbrush.com brushes are about 1/6 inch shorter than the Schunk
brushes. They're also priced about 75 cents cheaper. and apparently
available in lots of less than two dozen, although I have NO experience
doing business with this vendor. The company name, address and phone
number is on their main web page,  http://www.carbonbrush.com/

Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.




Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

Thanks to all -

This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came. This was followed
by the center vents opening about the time i was going to turn
everything off and open the windows to let the heat out.  Nice cool
air came out the center vents for a few minutes, the they closed, and
hot air came out the other vents. Followed by cool from the center
vents again. This cycle continued all the way to work - 35 minutes, 25
miles.

This evening, the temp was 90+, and cool air blew the whole time. 


So when it should have been pulse width modulated, the mono valve
seemed to be either on or off, ro - it was on the whole time, and the
A/C was cycling. The center vents seemed to be working OK, in synch
with the A/C, but the nice transparent, even cabin temp didn't happen.
Amplifier? I'm going to install lots of voltage monitoring LEDs
tomorrow in hopes of narrowing the possibilities.


The monovalve has NOTHING to do with flaps opening/closing. That is 
accomplished by the vacuum system which is controlled by electrical 
activation controlled by the pushbutton controller. If the vacuum supply 
were to be intermittant (as COULD happen with an intermitant leak) you 
could have what you describe. It could also be caused by an electrically 
intermittant pushbutton controller OR even if cabin air were not 
reliably drawn past the cabin temperature sensor. The system is complex 
and without doing an extensive diagnostic (as outlined in the climate 
control manual) it's rare that a failing saystem can be returned to 
reliable operation. READ the manual! It outlines how you can rather 
accurately diagnose the system! (but don't let the section lifted from 
the 124 manual confuse you).


All the mono valve does (and ALL that will misbehaive when the monovalve 
fails) is control heat flow thru the heater core. Heated coolant flows 
when the monovalve is open (power off) and is bloed when the monovalve 
is closed (power on). If the insert fails uncontrolled heat or NO heat 
at higher engine speeds are common symptoms of failures. Bad motor 
brushes or a failing blower motor won't open or close vents either.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm




Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread Russ Maki


Barry Stark wrote:


Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
commutator wear. That's what makes his special.

Barry

 

Sorry Barry, but I'm not buying it. As I recall, Murphy also believes 
W123 CC amp failures are caused by the wrong brake light bulbs. I don't 
buy that either.


Obviously, you don't want to install brushes for a vacuum cleaner motor 
into a 12 volt DC motor. You want 12-volt  automotive brushes. Like the 
ones that are installed in starters, alternators, power window motors 
and other applications by the millions, every day, around the world.


The original brushes I replaced in a Bosch blower motor a year ago had 
worn a deep notch into the commutator. If the factory originals were so 
soft, I can't understand how they did all that damage.


I suspect that the big difference between the brushes George sells and 
the ones everybody else sells is the price. At carbonbrush.com, they're 
$6-something a pair. From Murphy they're what...$20?


I know guy's got to make a living -- mercedessource.com does a lot of 
the same kind of packaging (fuse upgrade kit) and sells at a premium. 
More power to 'em both. A lot of people buy from them -- I don't.


Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.





Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-02 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you dont even want to get me started on what i think about george murphy.

Russ Maki wrote:



Barry Stark wrote:


Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes 
to fit,

it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being harder caused premature
commutator wear. That's what makes his special.

Barry

 

Sorry Barry, but I'm not buying it. As I recall, Murphy also believes 
W123 CC amp failures are caused by the wrong brake light bulbs. I don't 
buy that either.


Obviously, you don't want to install brushes for a vacuum cleaner motor 
into a 12 volt DC motor. You want 12-volt  automotive brushes. Like the 
ones that are installed in starters, alternators, power window motors 
and other applications by the millions, every day, around the world.


The original brushes I replaced in a Bosch blower motor a year ago had 
worn a deep notch into the commutator. If the factory originals were so 
soft, I can't understand how they did all that damage.


I suspect that the big difference between the brushes George sells and 
the ones everybody else sells is the price. At carbonbrush.com, they're 
$6-something a pair. From Murphy they're what...$20?


I know guy's got to make a living -- mercedessource.com does a lot of 
the same kind of packaging (fuse upgrade kit) and sells at a premium. 
More power to 'em both. A lot of people buy from them -- I don't.


Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.



___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-01 Thread OK Don
The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
How do you get the fan motor (I know -RTFM).


 
 YES, but once the fan starts in defrost, you can switch to another mode
 and the fan will keep running (if it's the engine temp lockout that's
 preventing fan action).
 
 Marshall
 --

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK 
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-01 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
How do you get the fan motor (I know -RTFM).


You MAY be experiencing the early stages of a cracked/cold solder joint 
on the pushbutton printer circuit board. They are the most common 
intermittant problem with the '80s climate control systems (it WILL get 
worse if that's the problem). You may also be in the first stages of 
motor brush or bearing failure (lots of refereneces to those in the 
archives).


I believe the blower motor is under the dash in the 126 (I've NEVER 
worked on a 126 blower motor). I'll leave further details to someone 
that knows what they are talking about!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm




Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-01 Thread Richard Hattaway
Don, 

I think you said you had already resoldered the side connectors on the
push button control board.  However, I have already misinterpreted this
thread once (c:.. 

I have removed the fan in a 126 and multiple 123's.  I remember it
being something along the line of 'pull off the knee bolster on the
passenger side and then unbolt the three or four screws that hold in
the motor flange'.  The motor is attached to a flange around 10 inches
in diameter or so, and is hanging there in plain sight once you undo
the bolster.  I dont believe the 126 was any worse than the 123's that
I have done (really simple, unbolt, unplug power and remove), but I've
slept since then.

Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if
found bad, or putting new brushes in it.  Our friend George Murphy has
the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other
sources as well.. (c:  New motors are expensive.  So you may want to
talk to your local motor rebuilder if budget is an issue.

Richard
K4PKV

--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
 though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
 Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
 experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
 How do you get the fan motor (I know -RTFM).
 
 
  
  YES, but once the fan starts in defrost, you can switch to another
 mode
  and the fan will keep running (if it's the engine temp lockout
 that's
  preventing fan action).
  
  Marshall
  --
 
 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK 
 '87 300SDL
 '81 240D
 '78 450SLC
 




 
Yahoo! Sports 
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football 
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-07-01 Thread Russ Maki

Richard Hattaway wrote:


Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if
found bad, or putting new brushes in it.  Our friend George Murphy has
the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other
sources as well.. (c:  New motors are expensive.  So you may want to
talk to your local motor rebuilder if budget is an issue.

Richard
K4PKV
 

Some of you may recall that I had a batch of blower motor brushes made 
up last year. After I did so I stumbled across this web site:

http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm

Judging by my invoice from Schink Graphite, brush No. 54H on the web 
page is the same width and thickness as the brushes I got from the brush 
factory. The pigtail appears to be mounted from the side of the brush 
rather than a recess at the end like the original, but since the brush 
housing in the Bosch/Behr motor has a slot in it, I'd think it ought to 
be workable.


The carbonbrush.com brushes are about 1/6 inch shorter than the Schunk 
brushes. They're also priced about 75 cents cheaper. and apparently 
available in lots of less than two dozen, although I have NO experience 
doing business with this vendor. The company name, address and phone 
number is on their main web page,  http://www.carbonbrush.com/


Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-30 Thread Marshall Booth

OK Don wrote:

The ACC fired right up this morning (80+) - and worked all the way to
work. This evening, (98F), I could feel the compressor running, and
feel cool air coming from the appropriate vents, at 70 MPH with the
windows cracked, but the fan didn't come on for the first 10 miles or
so. Then it suddenly turned on. I didn't loose cooling at all.

So - I have sporatic random failures of different parts of the system.
I did re-solder all the joints in the push button unit last summer,
but I'm not discounting failure in it.

Is the pushbutton unit, the control unit, or something else the most
likely suspect???


The monovalve has NOTHING to do with the fan. If the engine temp sensor 
or the pushbutton control circuitry that controls when the fan can run 
(after the engine warms up a little) is operating erratically, you COULD 
have the problem you describe. Try punching the defrost button and then 
go back to the setting you want ands see if that h=gets the fan to run.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 
159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi

  Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection
http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm




Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-30 Thread Richard Hattaway
Don, 

Don't rush to the conclusion that there is a problem.  The fan system
is automatic, and will control the speed of the fan to meet the
requirements in the cabin.  You say you didn't loose cooling at all, so
the sytem may well have been satisfied.  The fan may have been coasting
on low till the system told it to get busy.

The ACC system has a lot of neat features.  The fan wont come on during
a cold morning till the coolant reaches a particular temperature, just
to keep from blowing cold air in your face on an already raw day. 
Considerate, these cars

As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode. 
However, if the cabin is comfortable, your system is probably working
great.  If you are not at the bottom of the temp control wheel, you can
spin it to the coldest setting and demand more from the system, often
causing the fan to move to a higher speed in automatic.

Richard
K4PKV 
If God didn't want me to run high power, he wouldn't have made big
tubes Don - W7FN

--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The ACC fired right up this morning (80+) - and worked all the way to
 work. This evening, (98F), I could feel the compressor running, and
 feel cool air coming from the appropriate vents, at 70 MPH with the
 windows cracked, but the fan didn't come on for the first 10 miles or
 so. Then it suddenly turned on. I didn't loose cooling at all.
 
 So - I have sporatic random failures of different parts of the
 system.
 I did re-solder all the joints in the push button unit last summer,
 but I'm not discounting failure in it.
 
 Is the pushbutton unit, the control unit, or something else the most
 likely suspect???
 
 
 On 6/29/05, Richard Hattaway [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  From the quick and easy test desk:
 
  
  As additional information, if you really want to see how it works (
  what ham doesn't ) then get an LED with resistor that will
 illuminate
  when 12 V is applied.  Tie wrap it to the passenger windshield
 wiper
  and hook it across the monovalve coil.  Leave enough slack for the
  wiper to operate, and pass the wire under the trailing edge of the
 hood
  to the Monovalve.  You can observe the Pulse Width Modulation
 system
  used to control your cabin temperature.  Kinda fun in the fall,
 winter
  and spring especially.. watching the system correct for the proper
  temperature.  In the summer it pretty much just stays on all the
 time.
  
  Richard
  Salisbury NC
  K4PKV
 
 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK 
 '87 300SDL
 '81 240D
 '78 450SLC
 





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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-30 Thread David Brodbeck

Richard Hattaway wrote:
As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode. 


Defrost also forces full heat, though, doesn't it?



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-30 Thread Richard Hattaway
I believe it does.  But not positive.  I think the high speed fan
setting will force it as well, but again, not positive.  My old 300TD
does not have the benefit of that nice ACC system, so I can't test.

Reading Don's last post, however, he sure has a fan issue of some kind.
 I misunderstood the situation in the cabin (c: 

Richard




--- David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Richard Hattaway wrote:
  As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode. 
 
 Defrost also forces full heat, though, doesn't it?
 


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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-30 Thread Hans Neureiter
Yes it does.

On 6/30/05, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Richard Hattaway wrote:
  As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode.
 
 Defrost also forces full heat, though, doesn't it?
 
 ___
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
 For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
 


-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Henry Kolesnik

Don
The 2 times my monovavle went south, and both times were in summer, the heat 
was unbearable.  The first time it was the insert, 2nd was the solenoid.  So 
before you order the insert, check for continuity on the solenoid.

amf
Hank
- Original Message - 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:24 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Mono valve???


The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
guessing that this is the primary symptom of a faulty mono valve???
The car was converted to R134a by the PO, so I've been concerned that
the system might blow up with the black goo at any time, but then
again, this is the second summer since I bought it.

So, do I just order the mono valve repair kit, or do the trouble
shooting routine?

TIA,
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

___
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

pull it out and see if the diaphram is torn

OK Don wrote:


The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
guessing that this is the primary symptom of a faulty mono valve???
The car was converted to R134a by the PO, so I've been concerned that
the system might blow up with the black goo at any time, but then
again, this is the second summer since I bought it.

So, do I just order the mono valve repair kit, or do the trouble
shooting routine?

TIA,


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Richard Hattaway
From the quick and easy test desk:

Block the water line feeding the monovalve.  I use two strips of wood
and a C clamp, pinching it closed.  See if your cabin temp returns to
the pleasant cool you expect.  If so, your monovalve or control system
is at fault.  If not, you have to begin to look at your A/C system.

Then take a look at the coil and coil connection on the monovalve. It
will default in the hot mode without 12 volts on the coil, so if it is
disconnected or terminals corroded, you end up hot inside the car.

After you do these tests, you will have a much better idea of the
issues.  Neat thing is that they can all be done in 20 minutes, with
most of that time spent looking for appropriate pieces of wood and a C
clamp.  ( Autozone has a clamp for this purpose, but I am a bottom
feeder (c:  )  

As additional information, if you really want to see how it works (
what ham doesn't ) then get an LED with resistor that will illuminate
when 12 V is applied.  Tie wrap it to the passenger windshield wiper
and hook it across the monovalve coil.  Leave enough slack for the
wiper to operate, and pass the wire under the trailing edge of the hood
to the Monovalve.  You can observe the Pulse Width Modulation system
used to control your cabin temperature.  Kinda fun in the fall, winter
and spring especially.. watching the system correct for the proper
temperature.  In the summer it pretty much just stays on all the time.

Richard
Salisbury NC
K4PKV

 From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:24 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Mono valve???
 
 
 The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
 This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice
 cool
 breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
 guessing that this is the primary symptom of a faulty mono valve???
 The car was converted to R134a by the PO, so I've been concerned that
 the system might blow up with the black goo at any time, but then
 again, this is the second summer since I bought it.
 
 So, do I just order the mono valve repair kit, or do the trouble
 shooting routine?
 
 TIA,
 -- 
 OK Don, KD5NRO
 Norman, OK
 '87 300SDL
 '81 240D
 '78 450SLC


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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Henry Kolesnik

Idling or going at hiway speed?
Hank
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???


You know, my SDL will blow 42-45 vent temp on 90+ degree days with 134, 
Im amazed.


Loren Faeth wrote:

try turning the temp all the way cold while driving down the highway.  
R134 ain't worth crap unless you are moving at highway speeds.  Mine 
will occasionally lose its mind and blow hot, but if I turn the dial to 
more blue, it will blow cold again.   If it blows hot with the dial 
turned all the way down, and blows hot with the Economy push button 
down, then i'd guess you need a monvalve kit.



At 09:24 PM 6/28/2005, you wrote:


The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
guessing that this is the primary symptom of a faulty mono valve???
The car was converted to R134a by the PO, so I've been concerned that
the system might blow up with the black goo at any time, but then
again, this is the second summer since I bought it.

So, do I just order the mono valve repair kit, or do the trouble
shooting routine?

TIA,
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

___
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http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net




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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
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Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
you talking about the push button unit or the control unit behind the 
glove box?


David Johnson wrote:


--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even
at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to
85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly
turned very hot. 


I've had the same problem twice within 4-5 months . 
The culprit was the monovalve the first time, and the
ACC control unit the second time. 
David

83 300DT



 
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___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts



Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???

2005-06-29 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
highway speed, idling it will raise to about 50 to 55, but still is 
plenty cool.


Henry Kolesnik wrote:


Idling or going at hiway speed?
Hank
- Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???


You know, my SDL will blow 42-45 vent temp on 90+ degree days with 
134, Im amazed.


Loren Faeth wrote:

try turning the temp all the way cold while driving down the 
highway.  R134 ain't worth crap unless you are moving at highway 
speeds.  Mine will occasionally lose its mind and blow hot, but if I 
turn the dial to more blue, it will blow cold again.   If it blows 
hot with the dial turned all the way down, and blows hot with the 
Economy push button down, then i'd guess you need a monvalve kit.



At 09:24 PM 6/28/2005, you wrote:


The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
guessing that this is the primary symptom of a faulty mono valve???
The car was converted to R134a by the PO, so I've been concerned that
the system might blow up with the black goo at any time, but then
again, this is the second summer since I bought it.

So, do I just order the mono valve repair kit, or do the trouble
shooting routine?

TIA,
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'87 300SDL
'81 240D
'78 450SLC

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts

___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net



___
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For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,  81 300TD,
 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts