[neonixie-l] Re: Finally Got A Clock and It Doesn't Work

[gregebert]

Try disconnecting pin16 of the K155 ("0'"); if that solves the unwanted 
zeros you're 1 step closer. If this IC is bad, it might be worth removing 
it and installing a socket. That way, you can test each tube by grounding 
the appropriate cathode pin at the socket.

My experience with IC's and other semiconductors is that they are extremely 
reliable as long as the datasheet parameters are followed. I dont recall 
ever having a confirmed IC failure, except for a used Raspberry Pi I 
apparently killed from ESD (or maybe the previous owner weakened it ???)

On Monday, June 10, 2024 at 2:57:32 PM UTC-7 Mac Doktor wrote:

> This just arrived today:
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/387042686464
>
>
> It's multiplexed. The zeroes are on all the time and several numerals 
> never light up. I assume that the K155ID1is toast. Anyone?
>
>
> Terry Bowman, KA4HJH
> "The Mac Doctor"
>
> https://www.astarcloseup.com
>
> Detective Gregory: “Is there any other point to which you would wish to 
> draw my attention?”
> Sherlock Holmes: “To the curious incident of the dog in the night-time.”
> Gregory: “The dog did nothing in the night-time.”
> Holmes: “That was the curious incident.” — "Silver Blaze", Sir Arthur 
> Conan-Doyle
>
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/de0689e7-7572-4952-b800-6f264dfabef5n%40googlegroups.com.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally...

[Tyler Bourne]

There is a good project on Hackaday about driving these displays.  I have 
one and will probably give it a shot sometime.

https://hackaday.io/project/46302-1-64x64m-adventure

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/49b26dd5-a0dc-40f4-b87f-a730156ec8e8%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally...

[gregebert]

Looks like 64x64  matrix, probably 64 anode-connections on 1 side and 64 
cathode connections on the other. I would expect a lot of flicker with 64:1 
multiplexing at 1Khz; that's basically 16Hz flicker-rate.
Even the 128x32 dot-matrix displays used on pinball machines have annoying 
flicker in my opinion. So, scan-in 64 cathode values, turn-on anode #1, 
turn-off scan -in next 64 cathode values, turn-on anode #2, etc.

Alternating green and orange suggests there is phosphor, rather than gas, 
to set the color. That would be another wearout mechanism in-addition to 
sputtering and gas-leaks.

I have to say, the Soviets sure spent a lot of time developing high-voltage 
display technologies, and seemed to lag developing LCD which was already 
outpacing LED in many US applications by 1980.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/85975d43-53eb-40b6-bc85-327d6c386382%40googlegroups.com.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally...

[Nicholas Stock]

Bless 'em for itour hobby would be less interesting for sure...

I have some of the bare-board 'nixie' versions of these ...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGG1-64-64M-ИГГ1-64x64M-Dot-matrix-display-Nixie-panel-vintage-BOXED-OTK-NEW/322895279512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


No idea how to drive them yetany one played with one of these?

Nick

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 5:15 AM Kevin A. 
wrote:

> "Oddly overcomplex for what it does"
>
> Yup, it's definitely Soviet.
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 5:30 AM Alex  wrote:
>
>> That is very cool, and seems oddly over complex for what it does,
>> compared to the more common similarly sizes Elektronika ones based on the 7
>> dot VFD tubes...
>>
>> Seems wasteful to have a full matrix but only show digits on part of it -
>> what are those displays called, does anyone know? I have only seen the
>> smaller types with the two colour elements in them?
>>
>> - Alex
>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "neonixie-l" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web, visit
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d8253895-52f8-4e18-8638-b4c8dc3e4dfd%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CALcVLKJapPeHnDe4B%3Dom3is0A-yeDC01w1%2BsPzYU8R0SKgkqLg%40mail.gmail.com
> 
> .
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAOX%2BRH%2BNhYNGm6JtY1tEvBsa3J5i4SWMncUu%3D26NHWTDgpL37Q%40mail.gmail.com.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally...

[Kevin A.]

"Oddly overcomplex for what it does"

Yup, it's definitely Soviet.

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 5:30 AM Alex  wrote:

> That is very cool, and seems oddly over complex for what it does, compared
> to the more common similarly sizes Elektronika ones based on the 7 dot VFD
> tubes...
>
> Seems wasteful to have a full matrix but only show digits on part of it -
> what are those displays called, does anyone know? I have only seen the
> smaller types with the two colour elements in them?
>
> - Alex
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "neonixie-l" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web, visit
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d8253895-52f8-4e18-8638-b4c8dc3e4dfd%40googlegroups.com
> 
> .
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CALcVLKJapPeHnDe4B%3Dom3is0A-yeDC01w1%2BsPzYU8R0SKgkqLg%40mail.gmail.com.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally...

[Alex]

That is very cool, and seems oddly over complex for what it does, compared 
to the more common similarly sizes Elektronika ones based on the 7 dot VFD 
tubes...

Seems wasteful to have a full matrix but only show digits on part of it - 
what are those displays called, does anyone know? I have only seen the 
smaller types with the two colour elements in them?

- Alex

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/d8253895-52f8-4e18-8638-b4c8dc3e4dfd%40googlegroups.com.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally, upside down nixies in use...

[A.J. Franzman]

I have one of those counters too. The one listed is missing a tube and its 
front lens. The lens will be hard to match if someone wants to restore it 
correctly -- it's a dark amber circular polarizing filter; the few places 
that can supply this material call it HACP, and they charge an arm and a 
leg for it. Best bet is to rob one from a similar piece of equipment that's 
otherwise in worse condition, or just go with plain tinted acrylic.

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 1:38:53 PM UTC-7, Pramanicin wrote:
>
> Never saw a use example for the upside down nixies...
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-Hewlett-Packard-HP-5221B-Electronic-Counter-Nixie-Display-Radio-Test-/222114160385?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
>
> Now I have!
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"neonixie-l" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/410519d7-b015-4c25-aa45-71db411cde4b%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally, an LM Ericsson RYG10 coaxial Trochotron up and running!

[Dekatron42]

Thanks!

Now after some more testing I have the RYG10 up and running at 100 kHz (the 
limit of the oscillator that I am using right now) but I guess it will run 
up to the specified 300 kHz. The driving stage now uses either a ECC960 or 
a ECC962 (or their counterparts E90CC/E92CC) as I have a lot more of those 
(just four ECC91's right now). The driving stage is still a little bit 
sensitive to the input pulse voltage so I'll see if i can adjust that to 
make it easier to drive.

I also use an electro magnet in my experiments and had to use one from a 
dismantled inductor that had some 5200 turns of 0.25 mm enamelled copper 
wire. I run it at 172V @ 533mA to produce the required magnetic field. This 
coil then gets very hot after just a short while, after the movie I 
recorded it got to hot to handle comfortably so I'll have to make a another 
coil with thicker copper wire and possibly also use an iron tube to form 
the magnetic field.

There is a short movie here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4hh7yUP_36M 
where you can see my scope showing the driving pulse as well as the output 
pulse, sorry for the poor picture quality but my camera is old and the 
focus doesn't function well any more.

/Martin

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/aa3365e1-2a74-4905-8331-77b56e216a6c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally, an LM Ericsson RYG10 coaxial Trochotron up and running!

[Dekatron42]

I just added a movie where I drive the RYG10 from a variable oscillator and 
run it up to 10KHz before my current driving stage reaches its limit. I 
also flip the magnet over while the RYG10 is powered up and it then changes 
direction as soon as the magnet is back in its correct position.

/Martin

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/41a6243d-4379-4f7a-bdd7-6399ffb350fa%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally, an LM Ericsson RYG10 coaxial Trochotron up and running!

[JohnK]

This is interesting stuff.. thanks 

John K
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dekatron42 
  To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, September 29, 2014 12:09 AM
  Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally, an LM Ericsson RYG10 coaxial Trochotron up 
and running!


  I just added a movie where I drive the RYG10 from a variable oscillator and 
run it up to 10KHz before my current driving stage reaches its limit. I also 
flip the magnet over while the RYG10 is powered up and it then changes 
direction as soon as the magnet is back in its correct position.


  /Martin

  -- 
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
  To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
  To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/41a6243d-4379-4f7a-bdd7-6399ffb350fa%40googlegroups.com.
  For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/4ABCA4B1398D494AB5242CEF1636C4A6%40compunet4f9da9.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Mefistofelix]

Hi Tony,
 
Not sure if my iPad mail to you diect got through (modern technology - who 
needs it !)
 
I would very much like to purchase a full kit.
 
Mark
 

On Thursday, 21 June 2012 19:30:38 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all, 

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
 something nixie-based. 

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new 
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
 found here: 

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee 

 Tony. 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/D0RFhX2OB_AJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Shameless plug time - hope you all won't mind too much.

I've finally listed kit options and prices, there are only 7 complete
kits available just now and I'd prefer to sell them to the first to
show interest so that will probably be to members here - so if you're
still interested in buying one could you contact me directly and I can
work out what order they should go out in.

http://www.lasermad.com/?p=319

Tony.


On Jun 24, 2:28 am, Gene Segal wavefr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Very impressive!  Where can I get one?  =)
 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:Hi all,
 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something nixie-based.http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
 Tony.

 Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ... well, 
 you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe !?





 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, 
 visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/yFAsoSQMkkEJ.
 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at 
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michail1]

No shame.
 
I will take one.   Big kit.
 
Michail
206-920-6312  

 
In a message dated 6/30/2012 7:54:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sa...@amt-electronics.com writes:

Shameless plug time - hope you all won't mind too much.

I've  finally listed kit options and prices, there are only 7 complete
kits  available just now and I'd prefer to sell them to the first to
show  interest so that will probably be to members here - so if you're
still  interested in buying one could you contact me directly and I can
work out  what order they should go out  in.

http://www.lasermad.com/?p=319

Tony.


On Jun 24,  2:28 am, Gene Segal wavefr...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Very  impressive!  Where can I get one?  =)
 On Thursday, June 21,  2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:Hi all,
 Hope you won't mind  me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something  nixie-based.http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
 Tony.

  Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ... 
well,  you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe  !?





 --
 You received  this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
Groups neonixie-l  group.
 To view this discussion on the web,  
visithttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/yFAsoSQMkkEJ.
 To  post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To  unsubscribe from this group, send email to  
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this  group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

-- 
You  received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups  
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to  neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to  
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group  at  
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Jon Jackson]

Hi Tony,

I am interested in the Full Neon Jacket Chessboard Kit based on my
earlier post on your web page.  I do have some of the tubes, but I
haven't counted them lately, so I'll go for the Full Neon Jacket kit.

Thanks for the response!  Congrats on the overwhelming response to
your unique design.

Jon Jackson

(I contacted you directly per the email you sent me)

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Jon]

Hi Tony,
 
I replied to you directly as requested.
 
Cheers,
 
Jon.

On Saturday, June 30, 2012 3:54:39 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

 Shameless plug time - hope you all won't mind too much. 

 I've finally listed kit options and prices, there are only 7 complete 
 kits available just now and I'd prefer to sell them to the first to 
 show interest so that will probably be to members here - so if you're 
 still interested in buying one could you contact me directly and I can 
 work out what order they should go out in. 

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=319 

 Tony. 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/MPhj7qHs_pgJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Gene Segal]

Very impressive! Where can I get one? =)On Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:30:38 AM UTC-7, Tony Adams wrote:Hi all,

Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
something nixie-based.


http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

Tony.

Nixies and inductive power transfer. You can't make a better combo ... well, you could replace the kings with spinning dekatrons ... maybe !?



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/yFAsoSQMkkEJ. 
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.






-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.

For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tidak Ada]

I should put copperwire in the kit, so the bulders can wind their coils
themselves. It's a part of the fun and doesn't degrade the kit not to an
IKEA item (including Allen-wrench ;-) ).

An other possibility is to develop an simle winding machine

eric


-Original Message-
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Tony Adams
Sent: vrijdag 22 juni 2012 3:18
To: neonixie-l
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

Thank you, I was aiming for a 'vintage' look while still being functional,
though it might look good with some copper or brass pipe railings around the
edges to prevent pieces sliding off.

I'll have to work out a realisitc price for a kit, it would be difficult to
supply ready built at a sensible price due to the time it takes to assemble
- after winding 96 coils you'll see why ;).

Tony.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

It sometimes pays off to check easy to get parts for something that may 
just do the job for you rather than winding all the coils yourself. You 
could check miniature solenoids or things like that, take them apart and 
see if you can get it working with the coils from the solenoids.

Yeah, if your total circuit draws about 25W it will take a bit more effort 
to make it battery powered. An alternative is to have chess pieces with 
build-in rechargeable batteries. You could then charge the batteries 
through your induction system. Maybe it is possible  to make a charge 
plate with say 4 or 5 coils that charges the 32 chess pieces.

Michel



On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:10:50 PM UTC+10, Tidak Ada wrote:

 I should put copperwire in the kit, so the bulders can wind their coils 
 themselves. It's a part of the fun and doesn't degrade the kit not to an 
 IKEA item (including Allen-wrench ;-) ). 

 An other possibility is to develop an simle winding machine 

 eric 


 -Original Message- 
 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On 
 Behalf Of Tony Adams 
 Sent: vrijdag 22 juni 2012 3:18 
 To: neonixie-l 
 Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project... 

 Thank you, I was aiming for a 'vintage' look while still being functional, 
 though it might look good with some copper or brass pipe railings around 
 the 
 edges to prevent pieces sliding off. 

 I'll have to work out a realisitc price for a kit, it would be difficult 
 to 
 supply ready built at a sensible price due to the time it takes to 
 assemble 
 - after winding 96 coils you'll see why ;). 

 Tony. 




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/xB2K0_YOUdAJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

RE: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tidak Ada]

Tony's methode is most efficient: The tubes shut off, as soon as jou lift
them from the board, like a pen from a WACOM® tablet (also an indication
someone lift a piece from the board and he MUST move that piece).
How would you switch off the tubes in case of battery supply? (Don't say
they shut off automaticaly when the battery is empty...  :•þ  )
 
eric

  _  

From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Michel
Sent: vrijdag 22 juni 2012 10:43
To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...


It sometimes pays off to check easy to get parts for something that may just
do the job for you rather than winding all the coils yourself. You could
check miniature solenoids or things like that, take them apart and see if
you can get it working with the coils from the solenoids. 

Yeah, if your total circuit draws about 25W it will take a bit more effort
to make it battery powered. An alternative is to have chess pieces with
build-in rechargeable batteries. You could then charge the batteries through
your induction system. Maybe it is possible  to make a charge plate with
say 4 or 5 coils that charges the 32 chess pieces.

Michel



On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:10:50 PM UTC+10, Tidak Ada wrote: 

I should put copperwire in the kit, so the bulders can wind their coils 
themselves. It's a part of the fun and doesn't degrade the kit not to an 
IKEA item (including Allen-wrench ;-) ). 

An other possibility is to develop an simle winding machine 

eric 


-Original Message- 
From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@
mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of Tony Adams 
Sent: vrijdag 22 juni 2012 3:18 
To: neonixie-l 
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project... 

Thank you, I was aiming for a 'vintage' look while still being functional, 
though it might look good with some copper or brass pipe railings around the

edges to prevent pieces sliding off. 

I'll have to work out a realisitc price for a kit, it would be difficult to 
supply ready built at a sensible price due to the time it takes to assemble 
- after winding 96 coils you'll see why ;). 

Tony. 




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/xB2K0_YOUdAJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

Yes I know, I was just thinking of a way to make it portable without 
carrying a big battery. You could put reed switches inside the chess pieces 
and mount small magnets underneath each square of the chess board. That way 
they will also turn off when you lift them or put them aside.

But however you look at it, the chess pieces will obviously become quite a 
bit bigger so that will probably take away the charm they have at the 
moment.

Michel


On Friday, June 22, 2012 7:20:21 PM UTC+10, Tidak Ada wrote:

  Tony's methode is most efficient: The tubes shut off, as soon as jou 
 lift them from the board, like a pen from a WACOM® tablet (also an 
 indication someone lift a piece from the board and he MUST move that piece).
 How would you switch off the tubes in case of battery supply? (Don't say 
 they shut off automaticaly when the battery is empty... * :*•þ  )
  
 eric

  --
 *From:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] *On 
 Behalf Of *Michel
 *Sent:* vrijdag 22 juni 2012 10:43
 *To:* neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

 It sometimes pays off to check easy to get parts for something that may 
 just do the job for you rather than winding all the coils yourself. You 
 could check miniature solenoids or things like that, take them apart and 
 see if you can get it working with the coils from the solenoids. 

 Yeah, if your total circuit draws about 25W it will take a bit more effort 
 to make it battery powered. An alternative is to have chess pieces with 
 build-in rechargeable batteries. You could then charge the batteries 
 through your induction system. Maybe it is possible  to make a charge 
 plate with say 4 or 5 coils that charges the 32 chess pieces.

 Michel



 On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:10:50 PM UTC+10, Tidak Ada wrote: 

 I should put copperwire in the kit, so the bulders can wind their coils 
 themselves. It's a part of the fun and doesn't degrade the kit not to an 
 IKEA item (including Allen-wrench ;-) ). 

 An other possibility is to develop an simle winding machine 

 eric 


 -Original Message- 
 From: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com [mailto:neonixie-l@googlegroups.com] 
 On 
 Behalf Of Tony Adams 
 Sent: vrijdag 22 juni 2012 3:18 
 To: neonixie-l 
 Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project... 

 Thank you, I was aiming for a 'vintage' look while still being 
 functional, 
 though it might look good with some copper or brass pipe railings around 
 the 
 edges to prevent pieces sliding off. 

 I'll have to work out a realisitc price for a kit, it would be difficult 
 to 
 supply ready built at a sensible price due to the time it takes to 
 assemble 
 - after winding 96 coils you'll see why ;). 

 Tony. 


 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/xB2K0_YOUdAJ.
 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at 
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/qqlNktm-nO4J.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Nick]

 Top project - very nice - very cute - we like this!


I realise you have 8x8 + 2x16 sets of coils - couldn't you use a single 
coil for the board - some sort of convolution to get a more even field 
maybe? There are a lot of wireless power notes and practical projects 
around - design of xmit coils on planar surfaces is an interesting 
subject...

As for identifying the pieces, how about RFID tags? Put them all in the 
starting position, press learn, then all the pieces are registered with 
the correct type and virtual colour (it doesn't really matter which side is 
white or black - just that one lot of 16 is different from the other lot). 
Move any piece to a new square and it'll be easy for the board to know what 
it is. Remember this in an eeprom each move.

When you re-power the board, you can read back what should be where

Really impressed with what you've done.

Nick

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/VLE5CorMkqIJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[caliburgers]

Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 22, 2012, at 6:24 AM, Mefistofelix markpeters...@btinternet.com wrote:

 Absolutely stunning - I would be in for a kit !
  
 Mark
 
 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:
 Hi all, 
 
 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
 something nixie-based. 
 
 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new 
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 
 
 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
 found here: 
 
 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 
 
 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee 
 
 Tony. 
 
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/f6BEieQmmSoJ.
 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at 
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[jb-electronics]

Actually, I am just as well interested in the custom made chess Nixie 
tubes, Ron ;-)


Jens


Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit

Sent from my iPhone


--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

I'll try to reply to most of the pints in one post to prevent
cluttering the thread up, but first of all - you are all a bunch of
feature creeps! ;)

I did consider one large coil but couldn't see it being possible to
provide even coverage and avoid hotspots or overdriving the displays
if it wasn't fully loaded - it may be possible but I didn't explore
that.

Power efficiency, the loaded drivers deliver 70%+ of the input to the
display, the figures only look bad as unloaded they still use quite a
bit of power. Probably 10W could be saved by switching off the unused
squares but it adds to the complexity and would prevent another idea I
have from working.

Any kit will be exactly that, you'll be thrown a bunch of machined
paxolin discs and a roll of copper wire - reminds me of a clock case
'kit' I bought many years ago which consisted of some paper stencils
and 2 sheets of plywood. well it won't be that bad :).

As for modifications that would turn it into an electronic chess game
I've had the following ideas, along with a few hints offlist from
Dekatron42:
.
The base coils are currently driven in rows of eight, they're also fed
in rows of eight via 8x 2R2 fusible resistors. If I rearrange them to
be supplied in rows and driven in columns this should work:

The starting positions are known, or at least can be assumed.
The controller will need to keep a map of the piece positions and
track each movement.

When a piece is picked up or put down there is a change in current
through that row resistor, the controller can detect it then scan
through the columns to find out which square has changed. As all the
pieces are mapped it will know what was on that square and which
squares will be valid for it to reappear on.

When an increase is recorded across one of the resistors it can scan
again to see which square is now occupied. If it detects it's on a
valid square the game continues, if not it will stay in a loop waiting
for a legal move to be made or end the game depending on programming.

For the computer to make a move it will indicate it by only driving
the coil under the piece to be moved and the destination square.
As you know which moves are valid for that piece it will be easy to
find that square and the piece will light up. Again if it's not moved
to the correct square the controller can detect it and halt the game
until it is.

As all the pieces are mapped by the controller it doesn't need to
identify them and swapping them for another piece or attempting to
cheat will only halt the game or confuse the human player.

To make this work I'll need to change the current row/row arrangement
to row/column, add ADC lines from each resistor and add a 12v switch
to each row of 8 coils. It'll need a larger microcontroller and a few
spare pins will be needed to allow external programming. I really
don't want to end up bogged down with more modifications though so if
I do make these up as a kit I'd just supply the board with the above
mods, basic always-on software and a means to program it externally.
It's then up to the end user to do the rest.

- and chess piece Nixie tubes would be just incredible expecially if
they're made as plugin replacements.

Tony.


On Jun 22, 6:17 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Actually, I am just as well interested in the custom made chess Nixie
 tubes, Ron ;-)

 Jens







  Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit

  Sent from my iPhone

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

If you can supply this with custom made chess nixies, and a nixie chess 
timer I'd be very tempted to buy a set! Not sure about a kit though, it 
looks like a lot of work to assemble and I already have so much spare time 
left. For myself it's not really important if it can or cannot be 
hooked up to a computer, won't be using that feature anyways. IMHO a nixie 
chess game doesn't need the features of a modern chess computer.

Michel



On Saturday, June 23, 2012 7:25:50 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 I'll try to reply to most of the pints in one post to prevent 
 cluttering the thread up, but first of all - you are all a bunch of 
 feature creeps! ;) 

 I did consider one large coil but couldn't see it being possible to 
 provide even coverage and avoid hotspots or overdriving the displays 
 if it wasn't fully loaded - it may be possible but I didn't explore 
 that. 

 Power efficiency, the loaded drivers deliver 70%+ of the input to the 
 display, the figures only look bad as unloaded they still use quite a 
 bit of power. Probably 10W could be saved by switching off the unused 
 squares but it adds to the complexity and would prevent another idea I 
 have from working. 

 Any kit will be exactly that, you'll be thrown a bunch of machined 
 paxolin discs and a roll of copper wire - reminds me of a clock case 
 'kit' I bought many years ago which consisted of some paper stencils 
 and 2 sheets of plywood. well it won't be that bad :). 

 As for modifications that would turn it into an electronic chess game 
 I've had the following ideas, along with a few hints offlist from 
 Dekatron42: 
 . 
 The base coils are currently driven in rows of eight, they're also fed 
 in rows of eight via 8x 2R2 fusible resistors. If I rearrange them to 
 be supplied in rows and driven in columns this should work: 

 The starting positions are known, or at least can be assumed. 
 The controller will need to keep a map of the piece positions and 
 track each movement. 

 When a piece is picked up or put down there is a change in current 
 through that row resistor, the controller can detect it then scan 
 through the columns to find out which square has changed. As all the 
 pieces are mapped it will know what was on that square and which 
 squares will be valid for it to reappear on. 

 When an increase is recorded across one of the resistors it can scan 
 again to see which square is now occupied. If it detects it's on a 
 valid square the game continues, if not it will stay in a loop waiting 
 for a legal move to be made or end the game depending on programming. 

 For the computer to make a move it will indicate it by only driving 
 the coil under the piece to be moved and the destination square. 
 As you know which moves are valid for that piece it will be easy to 
 find that square and the piece will light up. Again if it's not moved 
 to the correct square the controller can detect it and halt the game 
 until it is. 

 As all the pieces are mapped by the controller it doesn't need to 
 identify them and swapping them for another piece or attempting to 
 cheat will only halt the game or confuse the human player. 

 To make this work I'll need to change the current row/row arrangement 
 to row/column, add ADC lines from each resistor and add a 12v switch 
 to each row of 8 coils. It'll need a larger microcontroller and a few 
 spare pins will be needed to allow external programming. I really 
 don't want to end up bogged down with more modifications though so if 
 I do make these up as a kit I'd just supply the board with the above 
 mods, basic always-on software and a means to program it externally. 
 It's then up to the end user to do the rest. 

 - and chess piece Nixie tubes would be just incredible expecially if 
 they're made as plugin replacements. 

 Tony. 


 On Jun 22, 6:17 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de 
 wrote: 
  Actually, I am just as well interested in the custom made chess Nixie 
  tubes, Ron ;-) 
  
  Jens 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   Absolutely stunning!  I be interested in a kit 
  
   Sent from my iPhone

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/Tw9cSC5i8o8J.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Dalibor Farný]

Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie
project!

Do You have some technical info on your site?

Dalibor

2012/6/21 kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com

 This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes without
 any risk?


 On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all,

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something nixie-based.

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
 found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

 Tony.

  --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5VUa6axnUgsJ.

 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.




-- 
Dalibor Farny
http://dalibor.farny.cz

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thank you :)

They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
multplier to produce around 180v.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
wrote:
 Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
 you drive the tubes?

 Jens







  Hi all,

  Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
  something nixie-based.

  I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
  growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
  design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
  couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
  humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

  Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
  found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

  Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
  controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

  Tony.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Dekatron42]

Absolutely fantastic!

This might actually get me to play chess again!

Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?

/Martin

On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:
 Thank you :)

 They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
 secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
 multplier to produce around 180v.

 Tony.

 On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
 wrote:



  Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
  you drive the tubes?

  Jens

   Hi all,

   Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
   something nixie-based.

   I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
   growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
   design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
   couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
   humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

   Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
   found here:

  http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

   Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
   controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

   Tony.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Thanks everyone for the positive comments, I'm not very good at
promoting things - maybe one of the reasons why I'm always redesigning
rather than finishing them.

I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver
coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected
leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide
more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube
to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed.

Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due
to the amount of repetition in assembly.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:04 pm, Dalibor Farný dali...@farny.cz wrote:
 Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie
 project!

 Do You have some technical info on your site?

 Dalibor

 2012/6/21 kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com









  This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes without
  any risk?

  On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

  Hi all,

  Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
  something nixie-based.

  I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
  growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
  design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
  couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
  humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

  Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
  found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

  Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
  controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

  Tony.

   --
  You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
  neonixie-l group.
  To view this discussion on the web, visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5VUa6axnUgsJ.

  To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
  To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
  neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
  For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

 --
 Dalibor Farnyhttp://dalibor.farny.cz

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

Hi,

Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Absolutely fantastic!

 This might actually get me to play chess again!

 Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?

 /Martin

 On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:







  Thank you :)

  They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
  secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
  multplier to produce around 180v.

  Tony.

  On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
  wrote:

   Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
   you drive the tubes?

   Jens

Hi all,

Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
something nixie-based.

I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
found here:

   http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

Tony.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Nicholas Stock]

I'd be very interested in a kit!

Nick

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 12:52 PM, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.comwrote:

 Hi,

 Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
 enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

 Tony.

 On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:
  Absolutely fantastic!
 
  This might actually get me to play chess again!
 
  Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?
 
  /Martin
 
  On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   Thank you :)
 
   They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
   secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
   multplier to produce around 180v.
 
   Tony.
 
   On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
   wrote:
 
Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How
 do
you drive the tubes?
 
Jens
 
 Hi all,
 
 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally
 completed
 something nixie-based.
 
 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely
 new
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.
 
 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
 found here:
 
http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235
 
 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a
 Zigbee
 
 Tony.

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
 neonixie-l group.
 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Dan Harboe Burer]

This IS the most impressive non-clock nixie project I have ever seen. WOW 
:o)


Yes a kit would be very interesting for me too :o) (a bit depinding on 
price)


Regards
Dan

- Original Message - 
From: Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com

To: neonixie-l neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 9:52 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...


Hi,

Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:

Absolutely fantastic!

This might actually get me to play chess again!

Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?

/Martin

On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:







 Thank you :)

 They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
 secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
 multplier to produce around 180v.

 Tony.

 On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
 wrote:

  Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
  you drive the tubes?

  Jens

   Hi all,

   Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
   something nixie-based.

   I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
   growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely 
   new

   design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
   couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
   humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

   Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
   found here:

  http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

   Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
   controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a 
   Zigbee


   Tony.


--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.

To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.


--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Lucky]

Kudos Tony, Kudos!
and here was me looking at illuminating a glass chess set, this totally 
outshines that (Pun intended). The most novel application I have ever seen 
and being interested in the 'steampunk' genre right up my street.
(I want one lol)

On Thursday, 21 June 2012 20:36:01 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

 Thanks everyone for the positive comments, I'm not very good at 
 promoting things - maybe one of the reasons why I'm always redesigning 
 rather than finishing them. 

 I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver 
 coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected 
 leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide 
 more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube 
 to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed. 

 Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due 
 to the amount of repetition in assembly. 

 Tony. 

 On Jun 21, 8:04 pm, Dalibor Farný dali...@farny.cz wrote: 
  Wow, I simply don't understand! As Jens said, I haven't better nixie 
  project! 
  
  Do You have some technical info on your site? 
  
  Dalibor 
  
  2012/6/21 kay486 luckyl...@gmail.com 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   This is absolutely amazing! How did you managed to power the tubes 
 without 
   any risk? 
  
   On Thursday, June 21, 2012 7:30:38 PM UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote: 
  
   Hi all, 
  
   Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
   something nixie-based. 
  
   I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
   growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely 
 new 
   design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
   couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
   humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 
  
   Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
   found here: 
  
  http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 
  
   Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
   controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a 
 Zigbee 
  
   Tony. 
  
-- 
   You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups 
   neonixie-l group. 
   To view this discussion on the web, visit 
  https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/5VUa6axnUgsJ. 
  
   To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. 
   To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
   neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. 
   For more options, visit this group at 
  http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB. 
  
  -- 
  Dalibor Farnyhttp://dalibor.farny.cz

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RrpxhhY7GQQJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

Really cool and very creative!

Most of the work was making the chess board itself I think?

You could always add a nixie chess-clock to go with the nixie chess board 
;-)

Michel



On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:30:38 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all, 

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
 something nixie-based. 

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new 
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
 found here: 

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee 

 Tony. 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RWyexVoMEWkJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Nicholas Stock]

Or a nixie tube chess timer!

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 3:26 PM, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:

 Really cool and very creative!

 Most of the work was making the chess board itself I think?

 You could always add a nixie chess-clock to go with the nixie chess board
 ;-)

 Michel



 On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:30:38 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all,

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something nixie-based.

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
 found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

 Tony.

  --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RWyexVoMEWkJ.

 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

Yes, that's what I mean. We call them chess-clocks but maybe the official 
name is chess timer, I don't know. They have 2 buttons at the top for 
starting one, stopping the other. That would be very cool I reckon.

Michel



On Friday, June 22, 2012 8:26:58 AM UTC+10, Pramanicin wrote:

 Or a nixie tube chess timer!

 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 3:26 PM, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:

 Really cool and very creative!

 Most of the work was making the chess board itself I think?

 You could always add a nixie chess-clock to go with the nixie chess board 
 ;-)

 Michel



 On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:30:38 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all, 

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
 something nixie-based. 

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new 
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
 found here: 

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee 

 Tony. 

  -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit 
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RWyexVoMEWkJ.

 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at 
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.




-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/KvQfM-Gdaa0J.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Nicholas Stock]

Why not both a clock and a two button timer...Tony sounds like he likes to
add new features to his projects...;-)

Nick

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 3:32 PM, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:

 Yes, that's what I mean. We call them chess-clocks but maybe the official
 name is chess timer, I don't know. They have 2 buttons at the top for
 starting one, stopping the other. That would be very cool I reckon.

 Michel



 On Friday, June 22, 2012 8:26:58 AM UTC+10, Pramanicin wrote:

 Or a nixie tube chess timer!

 On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 3:26 PM, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:

 Really cool and very creative!

 Most of the work was making the chess board itself I think?

 You could always add a nixie chess-clock to go with the nixie chess
 board ;-)

 Michel



 On Friday, June 22, 2012 4:30:38 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all,

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
 something nixie-based.

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
 found here:

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

 Tony.

  --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
 Groups neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/**
 msg/neonixie-l/-/RWyexVoMEWkJhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/RWyexVoMEWkJ
 .

 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@**
 googlegroups.com neonixie-l%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**
 group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GBhttp://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB
 .


  --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
 neonixie-l group.
 To view this discussion on the web, visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/KvQfM-Gdaa0J.

 To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
 To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
 neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
 For more options, visit this group at
 http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tom Nolan]

Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-)

Tom

--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

Not really, we just make him work harder :-)

Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing 
steampunk chess game!

Michel


On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote:

 Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-) 

 Tom 


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/hW-b275iJusJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Michel]

I think I would also try to let it run on rechargeable batteries and make 
it portable. I roughly estimated you need about 5W for all chess pieces 
which is not all that much. It only needs to operate for a few hours and 
when pieces disappear from the board, it will draw less power.

Michel



On Friday, June 22, 2012 10:32:14 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

 The chess timer idea did pop up at one point when it seemed it needed 
 more software, along with the idea of an extra 6 pieces with numeric 
 tubes that would be placed on the board to use it as a clock when it 
 wasn't in use for chess - but I managed to resist...;) 

 Tony. 


 On Jun 22, 12:14 am, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote: 
  Not really, we just make him work harder :-) 
  
  Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing 
  steampunk chess game! 
  
  Michel 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote: 
  
   Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-) 
  
   Tom

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/He-gdWedDToJ.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Tony Adams]

The driver circuits aren't that efficient though, I'd estimate the
nixies take about 10W and the board loses another 15W. If the edges
were made wider it would be possible to fit enough mh cells in for
maybe 2 hours or longer using Li.
As it stands though it can be fed from an external 12v battery, the
terminals are marked 'LT accumulator' though it's not very easy to see
in the videos.

Tony.

On Jun 22, 1:45 am, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:
 I think I would also try to let it run on rechargeable batteries and make
 it portable. I roughly estimated you need about 5W for all chess pieces
 which is not all that much. It only needs to operate for a few hours and
 when pieces disappear from the board, it will draw less power.

 Michel







 On Friday, June 22, 2012 10:32:14 AM UTC+10, Tony Adams wrote:

  The chess timer idea did pop up at one point when it seemed it needed
  more software, along with the idea of an extra 6 pieces with numeric
  tubes that would be placed on the board to use it as a clock when it
  wasn't in use for chess - but I managed to resist...;)

  Tony.

  On Jun 22, 12:14 am, Michel mic...@xiac.com wrote:
   Not really, we just make him work harder :-)

   Add some copper piping here and there and you got yourself an amazing
   steampunk chess game!

   Michel

   On Friday, June 22, 2012 9:03:01 AM UTC+10, OrangeGlow wrote:

Now you've done it!  He'll never finish it.  ;-)

Tom

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Lucky]

Have to laugh Tony. You started off this thread with the words ...so I 
decided to build something that 
couldn't suffer from feature creep. Hah! Fool you, you showed it to us! 
Now we have a never ending list of 'features' for you to add. Mind you 
something like this chess set just screams out for collective 
'personalisation'. There'll be no stopping the flood now I tell you ;)
Dave.  

On Thursday, 21 June 2012 19:30:38 UTC+1, Tony Adams wrote:

 Hi all, 

 Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed 
 something nixie-based. 

 I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- 
 growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new 
 design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that 
 couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from 
 humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. 

 Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be 
 found here: 

 http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235 

 Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the 
 controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee 

 Tony. 



-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To view this discussion on the web, visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/neonixie-l/-/CpLI7TS6bg0J.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[Dennis]

This is absolutely the coolest thing I've seen in awhile. A perfect use for odd 
ball tubes. I too would be interested in a kit if you decide to go there. 



 From: Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com
To: neonixie-l neonixie-l@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 12:52 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...
 
Hi,

Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is
enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though.

Tony.

On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 martin.forsb...@gmail.com wrote:
 Absolutely fantastic!

 This might actually get me to play chess again!

 Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built?

 /Martin

 On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams sa...@amt-electronics.com wrote:







  Thank you :)

  They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a
  secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W
  multplier to produce around 180v.

  Tony.

  On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics webmas...@jb-electronics.de
  wrote:

   Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do
   you drive the tubes?

   Jens

Hi all,

Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed
something nixie-based.

I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever-
growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely new
design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that
couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from
humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation.

Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be
found here:

   http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235

Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the
controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a Zigbee

Tony.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

Re: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project...

[David Forbes]

On 6/21/12 12:36 PM, Tony Adams wrote:


I've added an extra photograph to the blog post showing the receiver
coil and multiplier circuit, only the cathode required is connected
leaving the rest unused. The assembled pieces have 3 pins to provide
more stability as they're not glued together, allowing a broken tube
to be unplugged and replaced if ever needed.

Technically it's reasonably simple to build but mostly monotonous due
to the amount of repetition in assembly.

Tony.



Tony,

That's a truly beautiful chess set! I like the way that it achieves its 
effect with no moving parts. That is, each tube's lit cathode is 
selected at assembly time.


Unfortunately, the photo of the voltage multiplier guts isn't on the 
post, possibly due to your rebuilding of the database as you mentioned 
in your latest blog post.


Would you be kind enough to post the photo again? Thanks.

--
David Forbes, Tucson AZ



--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.

[neonixie-l] Re: Finally ready to share... the IV4LW2

[koolatron]

Thanks!

I'm currently designing a case.  I may end up making a limited run to
sell, but I very much plan on making the code and design files
available to others in case they wish to attempt this themselves.
That said, the entire affair is all surface-mount parts placed very
closely together.  It's tough to assemble by hand, as I currently
do :)

The decision to use native IO for the USB communication was motivated
by a few early design hurdles - there's literally no room for an FTDI
interface chip on the board, and I did not want to deal with FTDI's
host-side drivers, which I have quite a lot of (bad) experience with.

I got my atmega328p parts from element-14, which is one of Farnell's
multitude of webstores.  They show as perpetually out-of-stock, due to
the high demand from Arduino folks and the historically low market
availability of Atmel parts since they closed a few fabs.  Placing a
backorder request generally works much more quickly than their lead
time implies, the last time I bought these parts it only took about
two weeks.  I considered buying parts via eBay, but apparently some
shifty entrepreneurs have been floating knockoff 328s there and I
did not want to take the chance.

The AVR codebase, EAGLE libraries, project files, and host-side
interface code are all currently available at http://www.github.com/koolatron
-- I haven't pushed to the repo in a little while, so the code is
likely out-of-date, and there is no documentation as of yet.

Sean


On Nov 29, 1:25 am, petehand peteh...@gmail.com wrote:
 Interesting! You appear to be running the USB directly off the ports
 of that AVR - quite an achievement. removes hat

 Actually having in your possession, ATmega328s in QFP, that's quite an
 achievement also! It's the unobtainable chip of the year. Do you have
 a secret supplier, or do you buy Arduino boards and unsolder the
 chips, as I've heard some people are reduced to?

 On Nov 18, 3:59 pm, koolatron koolat...@gmail.com wrote:



  Hi all,

  It's taken me months and months of spare time (what little I get these
  days) to work on this, but I finally think my most recent project is
  finished-enough to warrant sharing.  A couple of years ago I built a

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
neonixie-l group.
To post to this group, send an email to neonixi...@googlegroups.com.
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to 
neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit this group at 
http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.