[RBW] Re: Welcome Spring!

2011-03-20 Thread Benedikt
I've often wondered if that trail was any good to ride on.

On Mar 19, 9:29 pm, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 A good day on the Bleriot today.  Saw little leaguers practicing, a
 guy mowing his lawn, the sun was out, and I got a bug in my eye.  I
 think spring is about here!  A few hours on the Tolt Pipline Trail to
 celebrate.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/sets/72157626304557016/

 Rob Markwardt

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Rene Sterental
Based on my personal experience, the choice between the 58 and 61 frames will 
really come down to the desired effective distance to your handlebars for your 
own personal fit. I'm 5'11 and my saddle height is 79cm, which means id be at 
the top recommend range for the 58 or in the middle for the 61. Riv put me on a 
61 which is perfect vertically, but based on where I need the brake hoods to be 
so in order to minimize/avoid shoulder and neck pain, I've ended up with a 7cm 
stem and my bars exactly 1 higher than my saddle.

If I wanted to ride with a longer stem which could have a different effect on 
the handling of the bike, the I would need the 58 but also a taller stem and 
would show more seat post and stem post to preserve the saddle height and bars 
relationship. If I didn't have the left shoulder pain, then I'd probably be 
riding an 8-9 cm stem. 

This is applicable to Noodle bars which have a long reach. With other drop bars 
or bar types such as Albatross or Moustache bars, the stem length would have to 
be adjusted accordingly. 

So, the fine points to consider when talking with Riv to choose a size should 
be your preferred position in terms of how upright or bent forwards you want to 
be, the type of bars you'll want to use and the height of the bars in relation 
to your saddle. Even if you have trouble measuring your PBH (I couldn't do it 
right until they did it), measure the distance between the top of the saddle 
and the center of the crank arms along the seat post on your current bike where 
i assume you are properly fit and use that as a guide. 

Last, trust their advice and if needed, send them a photo of you on your 
current bike so they can asses your riding position and make additional 
recommendations. Forget about your current preconceptions about stand-over 
height and trust them. They'll stand by you and giver you good advise. 

I have both a 61cm Atlantis and a Homer, but the 60cm Bombadil they recommended 
turned out to be too long for me with its longer top tube. And I'm running 50mm 
Marathon Supremes on the Atlantis, which make it taller than thinner tires. 
Vertically, however, it fits perfectly. With the 7 cm stem I have the best fit 
I've ever had on a road bike in my entire life. More importantly, I'm starting 
to ride completely pain free on most of my rides now.  And of course, working 
on the causes of the pain with a good chiropractor. It's amazing how unbalanced 
we get physically over the years as we get older and hit the 5th floor!

Congratulations on choosing to get an Atlantis. You can check mine here: 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/sets/72157625129486363/

René 

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:44 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Khalid
 
 I'm certain that both of those sizes (58 and 61) will work for you.
 Riv in general will not tell you that you need 2 inches of clearance.
 It's more likely that they'll tell you that 2 inches of clearance
 liberates you to go bigger.  It also depends somewhat on who you talk
 to.  I'm considering an Atlantis this year or next, and I could ride a
 58 or a 61 (PBH 87).  When I visited Riv HQ and stood over the 61, it
 was right there.  I could lift the front wheel off the ground, but
 barely.  Harry looked and said That looks like your size.  They
 didn't have a 58 on hand at the time.  On a different day, I was
 talking with Mark, who knows my bikes, although he's never done any
 fitting with me.  I told him I was thinking about a 58 Atlantis, and
 he said Are you sure you are tall enough for a 58?  So it's not
 completely rigid, their approach.
 
 My point is that both the 58 and the 61 can work for a person your
 size.  It will come down to your decision, which will be based
 somewhat on your riding style and attitude.  If your riding style and
 attitude towards cycling changes a lot over the next year or two, then
 it is possible that you might grow to love a bike that seemed too big
 at the beginning, or might grow to regret that you got something that
 is one size off.  That's probably the biggest piece, the guesswork on
 where your opinions will lie a few thousand miles down the road.  I
 guarantee you could find several Atlantis owners that are exactly your
 size who love their 58, and others exactly your size who love their
 61.  There's probably a few who ride a 56, and are similarly convinced
 they got their size.  I'm leaning towards the 58 because I intend to
 have the bars close to level with the saddle.  If I wanted the bars
 3-4 cm higher than the saddle, I'd go with the 61.
 
 On Mar 18, 10:41 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I check it.  I am either getting a 58cm frame or a 61 cm frame.  I wont know
 until I talk to them.
 
 K.
 
 On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 2:26 PM, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.netwrote:
 
 on 3/18/11 9:01 AM, Khalid Mateen at krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not know what sizes will fit me on a Rivendell.  They do not have
 the
 sizing on the frame 

[RBW] ISO cheap, small panniers

2011-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I want a simple, open design suitable for a front lowrider rack (Tubus Duo,
in case it matters). These will be used to augments the large Dutch panniers
on the rear of the Motobecane grocery bike -- somewhere I can put the
tomatos and bananas with less danger of squishing them. Black preferred.

Trade or $. Anyone?

And a question: I am assuming that I can safely mount a load on even the
lightish 531 fork of this 1973 racing bike? The Duo will mount via Tubus's
well made clamps and the front bags, if I get them, will not carry more
than, say, 15 lb between the two.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Welcome Spring!

2011-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Beautiful day and landscapes; thanks for the photos. The skies look as blue
as NM skies, which is saying a lot since most of NM is a few thousand feet
above sea level -- lowest point just under 3,000 feet and the mean is 5,700.

Nice bike, too.

On Sat, Mar 19, 2011 at 10:29 PM, rob markwardt robmar...@hotmail.comwrote:

 A good day on the Bleriot today.  Saw little leaguers practicing, a
 guy mowing his lawn, the sun was out, and I got a bug in my eye.  I
 think spring is about here!  A few hours on the Tolt Pipline Trail to
 celebrate.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/sets/72157626304557016/

 Rob Markwardt

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: First time out on Sam in 2011

2011-03-20 Thread EricP
Actually was able to get out on my SH yesterday.  40 miles without
studded tires.  Nice feeling.

http://tinyurl.com/68eozoe

Ended up being a salmon to a large group out training for the Alamanzo
100 later this spring.  Guessing at least 150 riders.  Of course, was
too dumbfounded to grab my camera.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Mar 18, 9:02 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
 Very nice.  Am hoping to get mine out tomorrow.  Just installed SKS
 Longboards.

 Of course, we're looking at more snow again in MN next week.  No
 matter how I look at it, this winter is starting to drag.

 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN

 On Mar 18, 7:58 pm, Forrest ftme...@me.com wrote:



  Spring is finally arriving in Iowa, and today was the first, short,
  but glorious spin on the Sam, outfitted over the winter with a few new
  (or at least different) bits and pieces. What a pleasure it is to
  ride! The Schwalbe tires not only are Supreme-y, they are dreamy.

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/10076072@N03/5538182639/in/photostream/- Hide 
 quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Walnut Creek Colorway?

2011-03-20 Thread Bruce
Not that they are into color matching or anything...

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bzLe7Pxy6OWKnmFaVfCaKQ?feat=directlink


(great ride yesterday btw. 70 odd miles and lots of climbing. Roads varied from 
fresh asphalt to very coarse chipseal. Rode on an old pair of Maxy Fastys that 
had been on the shelf for a few years. 65 psi, mid range inflation, was very 
good. I have been riding the past couple of years on Oursons, and will probably 
put them back on soon. They're more supple and I like the bigger tires.)



  

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[RBW] Re: ISO cheap, small panniers

2011-03-20 Thread Forrest
Have you looked at Ironweed panniers?

Site:  http://www.ironweedbp.com/index.html

Check out the gallery for how the smaller Alyce model looks/works on a
front low-rider rack:
http://www.ironweedbp.com/gallery.html

-- Forrest (Iowa City, home of Ironweed Panniers)


On Mar 20, 3:14 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I want a simple, open design suitable for a front lowrider rack (Tubus Duo,
 in case it matters). These will be used to augments the large Dutch panniers
 on the rear of the Motobecane grocery bike -- somewhere I can put the
 tomatos and bananas with less danger of squishing them. Black preferred.

 Trade or $. Anyone?

 And a question: I am assuming that I can safely mount a load on even the
 lightish 531 fork of this 1973 racing bike? The Duo will mount via Tubus's
 well made clamps and the front bags, if I get them, will not carry more
 than, say, 15 lb between the two.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Welcome Spring!

2011-03-20 Thread Tim McNamara
Welcome Spring depends on where you live.  We still have 2-3 foot deep snow 
drifts.  Still looks like winter.  It's not reliably spring here until May.  
This year we'll go from winter to major flooding then spring.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Khalid Mateen
I want to thank everyone for their help on this.  I am going nuts now about
finding my PBH.  I got my step father to read another one again and got 86.5
cm. Ugh.  I have to ask my brother if he will do it for me again which he
got 85cm.  I just want a little consistency. LOL.  I got my tax refunds now
so I am ready now to start talking to them about what I plan to do with the
bicycle, what size I need and what components I want.

THanks again for everyone help

K.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 3:12 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on my personal experience, the choice between the 58 and 61 frames
 will really come down to the desired effective distance to your handlebars
 for your own personal fit. I'm 5'11 and my saddle height is 79cm, which
 means id be at the top recommend range for the 58 or in the middle for the
 61. Riv put me on a 61 which is perfect vertically, but based on where I
 need the brake hoods to be so in order to minimize/avoid shoulder and neck
 pain, I've ended up with a 7cm stem and my bars exactly 1 higher than my
 saddle.

 If I wanted to ride with a longer stem which could have a different effect
 on the handling of the bike, the I would need the 58 but also a taller stem
 and would show more seat post and stem post to preserve the saddle height
 and bars relationship. If I didn't have the left shoulder pain, then I'd
 probably be riding an 8-9 cm stem.

 This is applicable to Noodle bars which have a long reach. With other drop
 bars or bar types such as Albatross or Moustache bars, the stem length would
 have to be adjusted accordingly.

 So, the fine points to consider when talking with Riv to choose a size
 should be your preferred position in terms of how upright or bent forwards
 you want to be, the type of bars you'll want to use and the height of the
 bars in relation to your saddle. Even if you have trouble measuring your PBH
 (I couldn't do it right until they did it), measure the distance between the
 top of the saddle and the center of the crank arms along the seat post on
 your current bike where i assume you are properly fit and use that as a
 guide.

 Last, trust their advice and if needed, send them a photo of you on your
 current bike so they can asses your riding position and make additional
 recommendations. Forget about your current preconceptions about stand-over
 height and trust them. They'll stand by you and giver you good advise.

 I have both a 61cm Atlantis and a Homer, but the 60cm Bombadil they
 recommended turned out to be too long for me with its longer top tube. And
 I'm running 50mm Marathon Supremes on the Atlantis, which make it taller
 than thinner tires. Vertically, however, it fits perfectly. With the 7 cm
 stem I have the best fit I've ever had on a road bike in my entire life.
 More importantly, I'm starting to ride completely pain free on most of my
 rides now.  And of course, working on the causes of the pain with a good
 chiropractor. It's amazing how unbalanced we get physically over the years
 as we get older and hit the 5th floor!

 Congratulations on choosing to get an Atlantis. You can check mine here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/sets/72157625129486363/

 René

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:44 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Khalid
 
  I'm certain that both of those sizes (58 and 61) will work for you.
  Riv in general will not tell you that you need 2 inches of clearance.
  It's more likely that they'll tell you that 2 inches of clearance
  liberates you to go bigger.  It also depends somewhat on who you talk
  to.  I'm considering an Atlantis this year or next, and I could ride a
  58 or a 61 (PBH 87).  When I visited Riv HQ and stood over the 61, it
  was right there.  I could lift the front wheel off the ground, but
  barely.  Harry looked and said That looks like your size.  They
  didn't have a 58 on hand at the time.  On a different day, I was
  talking with Mark, who knows my bikes, although he's never done any
  fitting with me.  I told him I was thinking about a 58 Atlantis, and
  he said Are you sure you are tall enough for a 58?  So it's not
  completely rigid, their approach.
 
  My point is that both the 58 and the 61 can work for a person your
  size.  It will come down to your decision, which will be based
  somewhat on your riding style and attitude.  If your riding style and
  attitude towards cycling changes a lot over the next year or two, then
  it is possible that you might grow to love a bike that seemed too big
  at the beginning, or might grow to regret that you got something that
  is one size off.  That's probably the biggest piece, the guesswork on
  where your opinions will lie a few thousand miles down the road.  I
  guarantee you could find several Atlantis owners that are exactly your
  size who love their 58, and others exactly your size who love their
  61.  There's probably a few who ride a 56, and are similarly convinced
  they got their size.  I'm 

Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Khalid Mateen
Just want to reply that I like how your bicycle is set up Rene even the
saddle.  I have read that the new Berthoud Gilles Saddles are comfortable
although some people think it is kind of cheap that they have that plastic
under there.  Even though that is the case, there hasnt been any reports
that the plastic has cracked during the riding and in fact, people have said
that this plastic material is strong.  It also looks like they put alot of
thought in designing that saddle to compete with the Brooks since it has
thicker leather and parts can be easily replace versus hammered copper nails
of the Brooks.  ALso, it is alot more expensive than the Brooks ($225 at
PeterWhite Cycles).  It may be worth it if you get alot of wear and tear out
of the saddle and parts can be easily replaced.

Thanks

Khalid Mateen

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 3:12 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on my personal experience, the choice between the 58 and 61 frames
 will really come down to the desired effective distance to your handlebars
 for your own personal fit. I'm 5'11 and my saddle height is 79cm, which
 means id be at the top recommend range for the 58 or in the middle for the
 61. Riv put me on a 61 which is perfect vertically, but based on where I
 need the brake hoods to be so in order to minimize/avoid shoulder and neck
 pain, I've ended up with a 7cm stem and my bars exactly 1 higher than my
 saddle.

 If I wanted to ride with a longer stem which could have a different effect
 on the handling of the bike, the I would need the 58 but also a taller stem
 and would show more seat post and stem post to preserve the saddle height
 and bars relationship. If I didn't have the left shoulder pain, then I'd
 probably be riding an 8-9 cm stem.

 This is applicable to Noodle bars which have a long reach. With other drop
 bars or bar types such as Albatross or Moustache bars, the stem length would
 have to be adjusted accordingly.

 So, the fine points to consider when talking with Riv to choose a size
 should be your preferred position in terms of how upright or bent forwards
 you want to be, the type of bars you'll want to use and the height of the
 bars in relation to your saddle. Even if you have trouble measuring your PBH
 (I couldn't do it right until they did it), measure the distance between the
 top of the saddle and the center of the crank arms along the seat post on
 your current bike where i assume you are properly fit and use that as a
 guide.

 Last, trust their advice and if needed, send them a photo of you on your
 current bike so they can asses your riding position and make additional
 recommendations. Forget about your current preconceptions about stand-over
 height and trust them. They'll stand by you and giver you good advise.

 I have both a 61cm Atlantis and a Homer, but the 60cm Bombadil they
 recommended turned out to be too long for me with its longer top tube. And
 I'm running 50mm Marathon Supremes on the Atlantis, which make it taller
 than thinner tires. Vertically, however, it fits perfectly. With the 7 cm
 stem I have the best fit I've ever had on a road bike in my entire life.
 More importantly, I'm starting to ride completely pain free on most of my
 rides now.  And of course, working on the causes of the pain with a good
 chiropractor. It's amazing how unbalanced we get physically over the years
 as we get older and hit the 5th floor!

 Congratulations on choosing to get an Atlantis. You can check mine here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/sets/72157625129486363/

 René

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:44 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Khalid
 
  I'm certain that both of those sizes (58 and 61) will work for you.
  Riv in general will not tell you that you need 2 inches of clearance.
  It's more likely that they'll tell you that 2 inches of clearance
  liberates you to go bigger.  It also depends somewhat on who you talk
  to.  I'm considering an Atlantis this year or next, and I could ride a
  58 or a 61 (PBH 87).  When I visited Riv HQ and stood over the 61, it
  was right there.  I could lift the front wheel off the ground, but
  barely.  Harry looked and said That looks like your size.  They
  didn't have a 58 on hand at the time.  On a different day, I was
  talking with Mark, who knows my bikes, although he's never done any
  fitting with me.  I told him I was thinking about a 58 Atlantis, and
  he said Are you sure you are tall enough for a 58?  So it's not
  completely rigid, their approach.
 
  My point is that both the 58 and the 61 can work for a person your
  size.  It will come down to your decision, which will be based
  somewhat on your riding style and attitude.  If your riding style and
  attitude towards cycling changes a lot over the next year or two, then
  it is possible that you might grow to love a bike that seemed too big
  at the beginning, or might grow to regret that you got something that
  is one size off.  That's probably 

[RBW] Photo of Painted, Lugged Rivendell Stem

2011-03-20 Thread Matthew
I'm separately making a post to this link because I thought the group
would enjoy seeing this incredible paint job that highlights the full
glory of a lugged, steel bike by Rivendell!

Grant and the crew surprised us with this extra touch on a 56
Atlantis.  Unfortunately we found ourselves needing to sell the bike.
Enjoy the picture and contact me with any questions.

Here's the picture:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16941981@N02/5542600777/

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[RBW] Re: His/Hers Atlantis' for Sale

2011-03-20 Thread Matthew
I've added a link to a picture of the stem on the 56 Atlantis for
sale:  http://www.flickr.com/photos/16941981@N02/5542600777/

On Mar 18, 1:02 pm, Matthew grabyourc...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I will soon be posting two Atlantis' for sale on ebay.  I'm giving the
 members here an opportunity to purchase them before resorting to an
 auction.

 I have a 61 Atlantis, custom-painted silver and fully loaded:  Honjo
 fenders, Tubus titanium rear rack, Brooks B17 with titanium rails,
 drop bars, spare moustache bars (shellack'd and with a lugged stem),
 and much more.

 I also have a 56 Atlantis, custom-painted pink/cream--even the lugged
 stem is painted in the color scheme (my jaw dropped at this surprise
 detail).

 Let me know if you have questions or interest.  I am in the process of
 collecting a detailed component list and pictures.

 thanks,

 Matthew
 grabyourc...@yahoo.com
 Vienna, VA

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Re: [RBW] Protecting bike in bike storage room

2011-03-20 Thread CycloFiend
on 3/19/11 5:04 PM, Bridgestone at alancr...@mac.com wrote:

 Looks like I'm going to have to store my bike in my apartment's jam-
 packed bicycle room. It will be hanging from a hook, perilously close
 to another bicycle that could likely scratch the paint right off of my
 frame.
 
 Any tips for protecting my bike? Pipe insulation, etc?

Same hook every time? The suggestion for securing moving blankets seemed
pretty good. 

If things tend to move around a lot, then a set of dense pipe insulation
foam cut to size for the frame would probably work well.  Though, I think
you are most likely to end up with scratches near the chain/seatstay + rear
axle area, or fork legs.

I would definitely work the social aspect of the issue as well.  If
there's someone else who has a nice bicycle, then stowing next to them would
have two people with the same type of concerns.

It's probably most likely to be pedals or brakes with sharp edges or corners
which will do the gouging.

best of luck!

- Jim


-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

The Gallery needs your photos! Send 'em in - Here's how:
http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

I carried my bike inside the front door, a privilege earned by steady
patronage.
-- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac

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[RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Khalid Mateen
I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

Regards,

K.

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[RBW] New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486164322

Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
-- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
mounting points.

-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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Re: [RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread CycloFiend
on 3/20/11 7:38 AM, Khalid Mateen at krm2...@gmail.com wrote:

I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious. 
When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

Not sure I agree with your supposition about one being superior.

Grant has posted/written a number of times about the excellent quality of
both Toyo and Waterford.

There are a few stylistic differences between the builds, but nothing which
seems to change the functionality.  That may cause someone to compare and
say, given the choice, I prefer that one...

There has been some discussion of this.  If you go back through the group
archives, you'll probably find as many people who want to buy a us-built Riv
as want to buy the last of the Toyo frames. But, as I said to start, I
don't recall anyone making the case for one being superior.

- Jim

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

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She edged in to get a better look at the bike, how it was made, the
intricacy of its brakes and shifters pulling her straight in. Beauty.
-- William Gibson, Virtual Light

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Re: [RBW] New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread Eric Norris
Nice!

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Mar 20, 2011, at 9:20 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486164322
 
 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more 
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear fender 
 at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact the 
 fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the 
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not 
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of the 
 rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have made 
 all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
 
 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point) are 
 about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type fenders 
 is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm eyebolts? 
 Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack -- the 
 struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would serve the 
 two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
 
 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame 
 mounting points.
 
 -- 
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Rene Sterental
Hi Khalid,

I think the Berthoud saddle is worth it's cost. It's certainly more
comfortable and there are absolutely no issues with the plastic bottom. In
fact, it's almost invisible with a saddlebag. I've also heard a lot of
complaints regarding durability with the newer Brooks saddles. Anyway, for
me the saddle width is perfect and I love its flatter top. My Brooks had to
have the nose so high so I wouldn't slide forward so much.

Enjoy your Atlantis!

René

Sent from my iPhone 4

On Mar 20, 2011, at 9:05 AM, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:

Just want to reply that I like how your bicycle is set up Rene even the
saddle.  I have read that the new Berthoud Gilles Saddles are comfortable
although some people think it is kind of cheap that they have that plastic
under there.  Even though that is the case, there hasnt been any reports
that the plastic has cracked during the riding and in fact, people have said
that this plastic material is strong.  It also looks like they put alot of
thought in designing that saddle to compete with the Brooks since it has
thicker leather and parts can be easily replace versus hammered copper nails
of the Brooks.  ALso, it is alot more expensive than the Brooks ($225 at
PeterWhite Cycles).  It may be worth it if you get alot of wear and tear out
of the saddle and parts can be easily replaced.

Thanks

Khalid Mateen

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 3:12 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on my personal experience, the choice between the 58 and 61 frames
 will really come down to the desired effective distance to your handlebars
 for your own personal fit. I'm 5'11 and my saddle height is 79cm, which
 means id be at the top recommend range for the 58 or in the middle for the
 61. Riv put me on a 61 which is perfect vertically, but based on where I
 need the brake hoods to be so in order to minimize/avoid shoulder and neck
 pain, I've ended up with a 7cm stem and my bars exactly 1 higher than my
 saddle.

 If I wanted to ride with a longer stem which could have a different effect
 on the handling of the bike, the I would need the 58 but also a taller stem
 and would show more seat post and stem post to preserve the saddle height
 and bars relationship. If I didn't have the left shoulder pain, then I'd
 probably be riding an 8-9 cm stem.

 This is applicable to Noodle bars which have a long reach. With other drop
 bars or bar types such as Albatross or Moustache bars, the stem length would
 have to be adjusted accordingly.

 So, the fine points to consider when talking with Riv to choose a size
 should be your preferred position in terms of how upright or bent forwards
 you want to be, the type of bars you'll want to use and the height of the
 bars in relation to your saddle. Even if you have trouble measuring your PBH
 (I couldn't do it right until they did it), measure the distance between the
 top of the saddle and the center of the crank arms along the seat post on
 your current bike where i assume you are properly fit and use that as a
 guide.

 Last, trust their advice and if needed, send them a photo of you on your
 current bike so they can asses your riding position and make additional
 recommendations. Forget about your current preconceptions about stand-over
 height and trust them. They'll stand by you and giver you good advise.

 I have both a 61cm Atlantis and a Homer, but the 60cm Bombadil they
 recommended turned out to be too long for me with its longer top tube. And
 I'm running 50mm Marathon Supremes on the Atlantis, which make it taller
 than thinner tires. Vertically, however, it fits perfectly. With the 7 cm
 stem I have the best fit I've ever had on a road bike in my entire life.
 More importantly, I'm starting to ride completely pain free on most of my
 rides now.  And of course, working on the causes of the pain with a good
 chiropractor. It's amazing how unbalanced we get physically over the years
 as we get older and hit the 5th floor!

 Congratulations on choosing to get an Atlantis. You can check mine here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/sets/72157625129486363/

 René

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:44 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Khalid
 
  I'm certain that both of those sizes (58 and 61) will work for you.
  Riv in general will not tell you that you need 2 inches of clearance.
  It's more likely that they'll tell you that 2 inches of clearance
  liberates you to go bigger.  It also depends somewhat on who you talk
  to.  I'm considering an Atlantis this year or next, and I could ride a
  58 or a 61 (PBH 87).  When I visited Riv HQ and stood over the 61, it
  was right there.  I could lift the front wheel off the ground, but
  barely.  Harry looked and said That looks like your size.  They
  didn't have a 58 on hand at the time.  On a different day, I was
  talking with Mark, who knows my bikes, although he's never done any
  fitting with me.  I told him I was thinking about a 58 Atlantis, and
  he 

Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread cyclotourist
FWIW, Wallingford has a FANTASTIC return/exchange policy on saddles,
might want to look them up if you're not sure on the saddle:
http://wallbike.com/catalog/saddles/berthoud-leatherline-saddles


On 3/20/11, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hi Khalid,

 I think the Berthoud saddle is worth it's cost. It's certainly more
 comfortable and there are absolutely no issues with the plastic bottom. In
 fact, it's almost invisible with a saddlebag. I've also heard a lot of
 complaints regarding durability with the newer Brooks saddles. Anyway, for
 me the saddle width is perfect and I love its flatter top. My Brooks had to
 have the nose so high so I wouldn't slide forward so much.

 Enjoy your Atlantis!

 René

 Sent from my iPhone 4

 On Mar 20, 2011, at 9:05 AM, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just want to reply that I like how your bicycle is set up Rene even the
 saddle.  I have read that the new Berthoud Gilles Saddles are comfortable
 although some people think it is kind of cheap that they have that plastic
 under there.  Even though that is the case, there hasnt been any reports
 that the plastic has cracked during the riding and in fact, people have said
 that this plastic material is strong.  It also looks like they put alot of
 thought in designing that saddle to compete with the Brooks since it has
 thicker leather and parts can be easily replace versus hammered copper nails
 of the Brooks.  ALso, it is alot more expensive than the Brooks ($225 at
 PeterWhite Cycles).  It may be worth it if you get alot of wear and tear out
 of the saddle and parts can be easily replaced.

 Thanks

 Khalid Mateen

 On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 3:12 AM, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:

 Based on my personal experience, the choice between the 58 and 61 frames
 will really come down to the desired effective distance to your handlebars
 for your own personal fit. I'm 5'11 and my saddle height is 79cm, which
 means id be at the top recommend range for the 58 or in the middle for the
 61. Riv put me on a 61 which is perfect vertically, but based on where I
 need the brake hoods to be so in order to minimize/avoid shoulder and neck
 pain, I've ended up with a 7cm stem and my bars exactly 1 higher than my
 saddle.

 If I wanted to ride with a longer stem which could have a different effect
 on the handling of the bike, the I would need the 58 but also a taller
 stem
 and would show more seat post and stem post to preserve the saddle height
 and bars relationship. If I didn't have the left shoulder pain, then I'd
 probably be riding an 8-9 cm stem.

 This is applicable to Noodle bars which have a long reach. With other drop
 bars or bar types such as Albatross or Moustache bars, the stem length
 would
 have to be adjusted accordingly.

 So, the fine points to consider when talking with Riv to choose a size
 should be your preferred position in terms of how upright or bent forwards
 you want to be, the type of bars you'll want to use and the height of the
 bars in relation to your saddle. Even if you have trouble measuring your
 PBH
 (I couldn't do it right until they did it), measure the distance between
 the
 top of the saddle and the center of the crank arms along the seat post on
 your current bike where i assume you are properly fit and use that as a
 guide.

 Last, trust their advice and if needed, send them a photo of you on your
 current bike so they can asses your riding position and make additional
 recommendations. Forget about your current preconceptions about stand-over
 height and trust them. They'll stand by you and giver you good advise.

 I have both a 61cm Atlantis and a Homer, but the 60cm Bombadil they
 recommended turned out to be too long for me with its longer top tube. And
 I'm running 50mm Marathon Supremes on the Atlantis, which make it taller
 than thinner tires. Vertically, however, it fits perfectly. With the 7 cm
 stem I have the best fit I've ever had on a road bike in my entire life.
 More importantly, I'm starting to ride completely pain free on most of my
 rides now.  And of course, working on the causes of the pain with a good
 chiropractor. It's amazing how unbalanced we get physically over the years
 as we get older and hit the 5th floor!

 Congratulations on choosing to get an Atlantis. You can check mine here:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/orthie251/sets/72157625129486363/

 René

 Sent from my iPad

 On Mar 19, 2011, at 9:44 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:

  Khalid
 
  I'm certain that both of those sizes (58 and 61) will work for you.
  Riv in general will not tell you that you need 2 inches of clearance.
  It's more likely that they'll tell you that 2 inches of clearance
  liberates you to go bigger.  It also depends somewhat on who you talk
  to.  I'm considering an Atlantis this year or next, and I could ride a
  58 or a 61 (PBH 87).  When I visited Riv HQ and stood over the 61, it
  was right there.  I could lift the front wheel off the ground, but
  

Re: [RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Bruce
Echoing Jim's comment below, RBW has gone to some length to assert that the 
quality is equal, regardless of location. In some cases where a bike might have 
been made at both places in the same time frame, Grant went so far as to say 
that buyers had no choice as to which shop would provide their bike.





From: CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, March 20, 2011 12:21:56 PM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

Re: [RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis 

Grant has posted/written a number of times about the excellent quality of both 
Toyo and Waterford. 


  

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
That's not suburban decay, that's my van!

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 10:31 AM, Chris Cullum cullum.ch...@gmail.comwrote:

 That rack is very nice. Simple, elegant, understated, a study in
 contrasts with the suburban decay in the background...

 --
 Chris Cullum
 Vancouver, BC




-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread MichaelH
I would love to own an Atlantis, no matter where it is made.  I do
have a general bias in favor of buying as close to home as possible
but that is not based on any assumptions about quality.

michael

On Mar 20, 11:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread charlie
I think the Toyo factory has been making the Atlantis the longest but
lets be realistic, Other builders can make fine frames too. The
process using commonly available jigs and cutting tools insures
consistency assuming the brazing is done by equally skilled hands
which I am sure it is. The lug parts are the same as is the tubing
unless brand names have anything to do with quality (which it doesn't)
for the most part. I think the industry as a whole should de-mystify
the whole process. Where you get one would seem to have more to do
with cost and availability not to mention the strength of the dollar
vs. the yen or whatever import taxes or shipping costs are involved. I
don't think Grant has a preference either way.  I believe he just
wants to make them available at a cost that allows the company a
profit and at a quality that is consistent.  The Atlantis is most
likely a best seller and a good all around bicycle for most riders.
I've always wanted one but have had to make compromises economically
when it comes to bicycles. No matter where its made the Atlantis frame
is well thought out with a nice blend of features that I personally
wouldn't mind owning.

On Mar 20, 8:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread charlie
Very nice and clean..I am building a rear rack also that will
be shorter and will be used primarily as a bag support. I plan on a
tail light mount and a similar minimalist design. Glad you posted
photos. I would think you should be able to find suitable long bolts
at any auto parts or hardware store that stocks stainless bolts.

On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...

 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread Jim Cloud
Nice looking bike and rack, Patrick!  I think, however, that your gas
mileage on the van must be decreased by the number of stickers on the
back!

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...

 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Jim Cloud
The Waterford facility is a first class operation that was spun off
from the Schwinn Chicago plant in 1980 solely to build the Paramount
class of bicycles (becoming the Paramount Design Group as a separate
Schwinn operation).  The Waterford facility is now owned by Richard
Schwinn (he of the Ignaz Schwinn dynasty) and Marc Muller who is the
chief designer (and was originally tapped by Edwin Schwinn to start up
the Waterford plant).

These people have decades of experience building fine bicycles and
they've been quite closely involved with Rivendell Bicycle Works since
Grant started up in 1995.  Other than Grant himself, Richard Schwinn,
Marc Muller and Richard Sachs were quite involved in the original
Rivendell design and start-up.  Waterford has been around from the
beginning.

I think that there's absolutely no reason to believe that the Atlantis
bicycles built in Waterford are inferior to the Toyo bikes.
Personally, I'd be quite happy to own a Waterford built Atlantis!

Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ

On Mar 20, 8:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Cycletex
Concerning the detail differences between the two Atlanti, do you know
what they are? I don't remember seeing them discussed anywhere. Not
that it's here or there, but I think my Atlantis is a Waterford having
come (used) in a Waterford box but then that doesn't really prove
anything. I have a mild curiosity though either factory would be just
fine.

On Mar 20, 12:21 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 3/20/11 7:38 AM, Khalid Mateen at krm2...@gmail.com wrote:

 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious. 
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Not sure I agree with your supposition about one being superior.

 Grant has posted/written a number of times about the excellent quality of
 both Toyo and Waterford.

 There are a few stylistic differences between the builds, but nothing which
 seems to change the functionality.  That may cause someone to compare and
 say, given the choice, I prefer that one...

 There has been some discussion of this.  If you go back through the group
 archives, you'll probably find as many people who want to buy a us-built Riv
 as want to buy the last of the Toyo frames. But, as I said to start, I
 don't recall anyone making the case for one being superior.

 - Jim

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 The Gallery needs your photos! Send 'em in - Here's 
 how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

 She edged in to get a better look at the bike, how it was made, the
 intricacy of its brakes and shifters pulling her straight in. Beauty.
 -- William Gibson, Virtual Light

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread doug peterson
Khalid:

I'm diving in here without reading any further posts, so forgive me if
others make similar points.

First, I'll bet there is absolutely ZERO difference in quality between
Toyo  Waterford frames.  It's Rivendell's lugs  spec on the tubing.
I'll speculate that Rivendell has sawed thru a lot of brazed joints to
see what potential vendors produce, and that only the best are
selected to produce frames.

Second, only Riv could say whether there was a run on frames or
not.  But people in general have a fear of change so some fence
sitters may have been motivated to buy, knowing Toyo's reputation.

On a more general note, Waterford has been building frames for a long
time and has an excellent reputation.  I can't believe anyone could
make them any better.

FWIW, mine is an '03.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Waterford, and am
willing to bet I couldn't tell the difference.  Well, they get a
kickstand plate now which I'd really like to have.

dougP

On Mar 20, 8:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] FS: Old-school ATB, w/lugged steel frameset

2011-03-20 Thread b hamon
Schwinn High Sierra, early generation, circa early/mid 1980's.
19.5 c-t; TT 23.5 c-c; very relaxed geometry.
Overhauled by shop mechanic with mostly new parts.
Lugged steel frame is in excellent used condition, with a fork crown to die for.
$300 ready to ride.
I would prefer local pickup in Portland, OR because shipping would cost a lot 
(probably at least $75-80 in conusa).

Photos here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544103111/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544676582/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544100507/

Please email off-list if interested. --Beth

http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/


  

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Re: [RBW] FS: Old-school ATB, w/lugged steel frameset

2011-03-20 Thread Eric Norris
Nice bike, Beth! Reminds me of my Pashley Guvnor, but with gears.  Relaxed 
geometry, you say? I like to call the Pashley's slack angles, unconscious.

--Eric N
Sent from the iPad 2

On Mar 20, 2011, at 3:30 PM, b hamon periwinkle...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Schwinn High Sierra, early generation, circa early/mid 1980's.
 19.5 c-t; TT 23.5 c-c; very relaxed geometry.
 Overhauled by shop mechanic with mostly new parts.
 Lugged steel frame is in excellent used condition, with a fork crown to die 
 for.
 $300 ready to ride.
 I would prefer local pickup in Portland, OR because shipping would cost a lot 
 (probably at least $75-80 in conusa).
 
 Photos here:
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544103111/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544676582/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/5544100507/
 
 Please email off-list if interested. --Beth
 
 http://bikelovejones1.blogspot.com/
 
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[RBW] Re: New Sturmey S3X hub arrived yesterday!

2011-03-20 Thread Philip Williamson
I will do my best to break this hub.

The most interesting thing so far, now that it's out of the plastic,
is that you can slide a cassette cog onto the splines, and then thread
a fixed-gear cog on after. No lockring, but I'm on record as eschewing
them, anyway.

Pictures are here: http://www.biketinker.com/2011/projects/sturmey-s3x-arrives/
And here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/sets/72157626185543293/

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Mar 19, 9:49 am, ekoral eko...@gmail.com wrote:
 sounds awesome! i'm very curious about these hubs and how much they'll
 actually hold up over time with the torque thats put on a fixed gear
 drivetrain. let us know how you like it, and how it feels in
 comparison to a traditional fixed hub.

 eli

 On Mar 18, 1:39 pm, Philip Williamson philip.william...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  I'm excited to build this up for the Quickbeam.

  It's red, which I don't love, but it was the only color 120mm 32h hubs
  come in. The real answer was to buy a 36h rim and spokes, and a black
  S3X, but... I just got a pair of $15 rims and $16 spoke set from IRO
  which allowed me to swing the $120 hub.
  I may paint the hub black before I build it, in order to make it
  completely unsellable... :^)

  It also has a thumbshifter, not a bar-end shifter, but I intend to
  mount the shifter-part to the seatstay, anyway.

   Philip

   Philip Williamsonwww.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread doug peterson
Patrick:

That is nicely done, very tasteful.  Does your rack maker do this as a
regular part of his business or is he interested in doing customs?
The work looks beautiful.

I have a Nitto big rack on the back of the Atlantis.  While
functional, it does look look like a bridge, with the corner bracing 
generally rectangular look.  I've often mused on something simpler,
but need to support perhaps 30 lbs at the max.  Mass produced racks
seem to be at the extremes, designed either for a 10 lb trunk bag or
50 lbs touring load.

dougP

On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...

 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread Michael_S
Doug, I saw that the rack builder will be at the San Diego Handmade
bike show in April. You could see him there.  I really like his MTB
fork crowns too.
http://www.matthewscustomcycles.blogspot.com/

~Mike

On Mar 20, 3:59 pm, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Patrick:

 That is nicely done, very tasteful.  Does your rack maker do this as a
 regular part of his business or is he interested in doing customs?
 The work looks beautiful.

 I have a Nitto big rack on the back of the Atlantis.  While
 functional, it does look look like a bridge, with the corner bracing 
 generally rectangular look.  I've often mused on something simpler,
 but need to support perhaps 30 lbs at the max.  Mass produced racks
 seem to be at the extremes, designed either for a 10 lb trunk bag or
 50 lbs touring load.

 dougP

 On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...

  Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
  than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
  fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
  the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
  fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
  necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
  the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
  made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

  One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
  are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
  fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
  eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
  -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
  serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

  Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
  mounting points.

  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact
  Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com- Hide quoted text 
  -

 - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Thanks. AFAIK, all his racks are customs.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 4:59 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 Patrick:

 That is nicely done, very tasteful.  Does your rack maker do this as a
 regular part of his business or is he interested in doing customs?
 The work looks beautiful.

 I have a Nitto big rack on the back of the Atlantis.  While
 functional, it does look look like a bridge, with the corner bracing 
 generally rectangular look.  I've often mused on something simpler,
 but need to support perhaps 30 lbs at the max.  Mass produced racks
 seem to be at the extremes, designed either for a 10 lb trunk bag or
 50 lbs touring load.

 dougP

 On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...
 
  Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
  than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
  fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs
 contact
  the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled
 the
  fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
  necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
  the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
  made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
 
  One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
  are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
  fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
  eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the
 rack
  -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
  serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
 
  Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
  mounting points.
 
  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact
  Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Frankwurst
Ride'em both blind folded and I'll bet you or anybody else (myself
included) could not tell the difference. They are both as good as it
gets.

On Mar 20, 10:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Rene Sterental
Detail differences assessed when I ode red mine last year are as follows:

- Slight color difference. The Waterford is just slightly livelier
with a spark that the Toyo lacks. The Toyo is a bit more matte; very
subtle but noticeable only when doing a side by side comparison.
Otherwise I'd say not detectable. I was only able to tell because just
once, I met another Atlantis on Caltrain and the two bikes rode side
by side.

- Default Waterford frame has a horizontal (front to back) hole on the
seat stay connector (little horizontal tube where on other bikes the
rear brake would be bolted). This requires an L bracket to be used for
rear fenders. The Toyo has the vertical attachment so the rear fender
can be bolted directly to it without needing the bracket. When I
ordered mine I wanted the direct attachment so Keven special order it
for me.

- Toyo fork doesn't have all the braze-ons to attach all types of
front racks. Again, when I ordered mine, Keven special ordered the
fork to match the Bombadil fork and get all the various braze-ons.

-There might also be some subtle differences on the design of the seat
stays but I wasn't able to tell those fromm looking at the different
photos and believe they are irrelevant for all practical purposes.

I'd say don't sweet the differences as you can get the Waterford frame
with the rear adaptor for the direct fender attachment and also all
the braze-ons on the fork. Personally, I like the vibrancy of the
Waterford colors on both the Homer and the Atlantis more. On the Homer
the blue is quite different, on the Atlantis it barely is.

René

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 20, 2011, at 1:29 PM, Cycletex clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Concerning the detail differences between the two Atlanti, do you know
 what they are? I don't remember seeing them discussed anywhere. Not
 that it's here or there, but I think my Atlantis is a Waterford having
 come (used) in a Waterford box but then that doesn't really prove
 anything. I have a mild curiosity though either factory would be just
 fine.

 On Mar 20, 12:21 pm, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 on 3/20/11 7:38 AM, Khalid Mateen at krm2...@gmail.com wrote:

 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Not sure I agree with your supposition about one being superior.

 Grant has posted/written a number of times about the excellent quality of
 both Toyo and Waterford.

 There are a few stylistic differences between the builds, but nothing which
 seems to change the functionality.  That may cause someone to compare and
 say, given the choice, I prefer that one...

 There has been some discussion of this.  If you go back through the group
 archives, you'll probably find as many people who want to buy a us-built Riv
 as want to buy the last of the Toyo frames. But, as I said to start, I
 don't recall anyone making the case for one being superior.

 - Jim

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes

 The Gallery needs your photos! Send 'em in - Here's 
 how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

 She edged in to get a better look at the bike, how it was made, the
 intricacy of its brakes and shifters pulling her straight in. Beauty.
 -- William Gibson, Virtual Light

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[RBW] Re: [BOB] New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread Chris Cullum
On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 9:20 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486164322
 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com



That rack is very nice. Simple, elegant, understated, a study in
contrasts with the suburban decay in the background...

-- 
Chris Cullum
Vancouver, BC

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[RBW] FS: Bridgestone Horse of a different color poster

2011-03-20 Thread cyclotourist
New, never hung, in original box shipped from Grant Petersen's garage
during the last days of the BOB/beginning of RBW.  IIRC these are
going for around $100 on ebay, so I would like to sell it here for $75
shipped in the CONUS.

Pix of the rolled up one and a mounted one to show as an example

http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5545133598/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5544557383/in/photostream/


-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread robert zeidler
I hate racks and think we Riv owners hang way too much junk on our
bikes, but man that is a beauty.  I'd put that on even if I never
carried anything.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 12:20 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486164322
 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com



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Re: [RBW] Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread robert zeidler
Oh boy. Here goes!!  Anytime my money can keep somebody working in
Wisconsin, I'm for it, all else being equal.  I think GP feels this
way also, but I am not, repeat NOT speaking for him.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 11:38 AM, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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Re: [RBW] Welcome Spring!

2011-03-20 Thread robert zeidler
I feel your pain In NW CT it was 74 on Fri and yesterday about 30
deg cooler w/ a howling NW wind, which made the riding just suck
beyond all belief, but I never was that smart so I was right out there
in it.  Most of my ride are out/back or loops but still have out/back
sections.  So in the headwind (I'm 6'6) my natural barn-door physique
had me grinding out, making 400 watts, and being slower at the bottom
of a hill I had just descended than I was at the top, the epitome of
suffering.

Of course then on the last 10 +/- miles headed South and coming home,
I flew in the 53x12 even on most upgrades and felt like
Eddy/Greg/Lance et al on their best days.

Hey if it was easy.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 11:41 AM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote:
 Welcome Spring depends on where you live.  We still have 2-3 foot deep snow 
 drifts.  Still looks like winter.  It's not reliably spring here until May.  
 This year we'll go from winter to major flooding then spring.

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Re: [RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread omnigrid
powdercoated...or plated?

very nice!

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 6:12 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks. AFAIK, all his racks are customs.


 On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 4:59 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 Patrick:

 That is nicely done, very tasteful.  Does your rack maker do this as a
 regular part of his business or is he interested in doing customs?
 The work looks beautiful.

 I have a Nitto big rack on the back of the Atlantis.  While
 functional, it does look look like a bridge, with the corner bracing 
 generally rectangular look.  I've often mused on something simpler,
 but need to support perhaps 30 lbs at the max.  Mass produced racks
 seem to be at the extremes, designed either for a 10 lb trunk bag or
 50 lbs touring load.

 dougP

 On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
  https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486.
 ..
 
  Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put
 more
  than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
  fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs
 contact
  the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled
 the
  fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
  necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end
 of
  the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would
 have
  made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
 
  One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment
 point)
  are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
  fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
  eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the
 rack
  -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
  serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
 
  Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
  mounting points.
 
  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact
  Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com




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[RBW] WTT: my 48cm noodle bars and tiagra levers for your.......

2011-03-20 Thread rex
hi all!
 i would like to trade my 48cm noodles and tiagra road levers that
riv sells. the bars are in good shape with typical wear and tear marks
and the levers are in excellent shape with hardly any wear.

I need any of the following:
-dull brite 150mm bulmoose bars
-nitto mini front rack
-sackville saddlesack small in olive
-quickbeam crank 170 or 175
-brooks/mercia/selle anatomica saddle

I would be willing to make up the difference/take money to equal out
trades but not too much though maybe 20 or 30 dollars max. i just have
some extra riv stuff and need some other riv stuff for my quickbeam
and I thought a trade would be fun.
thanks for your time.
rex

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread Philip Williamson
Now I know where to send my un-stuck stickers. I gave away the bike
that used to receive them all.

I love that rack. Is the mount to the brake bridge threaded with a
nut, or internally tapped for a bolt? Dead sexy either way. You have
the best taste in bikes.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On Mar 20, 9:20 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...

 Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
 than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
 fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
 the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
 fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
 necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
 the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
 made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.

 One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
 are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
 fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
 eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
 -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
 serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?

 Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
 mounting points.

 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone Horse of a different color poster

2011-03-20 Thread cyclotourist
Aand it looks like we have a winner!

Poster is spoken for, thanks for the interest!!!

On 3/20/11, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 New, never hung, in original box shipped from Grant Petersen's garage
 during the last days of the BOB/beginning of RBW.  IIRC these are
 going for around $100 on ebay, so I would like to sell it here for $75
 shipped in the CONUS.

 Pix of the rolled up one and a mounted one to show as an example

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5545133598/in/photostream/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/5544557383/in/photostream/


 --
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 *...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
 probably benefit more from
 improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS



-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] WTB: MKS sneaker pedals

2011-03-20 Thread rcnute
I need a couple pairs of these and thought some of y'all might have
tried them and moved on to different pedals.  Thanks!

Ryan

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[RBW] Re: New, custom, minimalist ss rack for Riv commuter

2011-03-20 Thread doug peterson
I love racks; it's the only way I can hang all my junk onto my
bike :).

Seriously, a nice looking rack can enhance both the beauty and utility
of a bike.

dougP

On Mar 20, 11:20 am, robert zeidler zeidler.rob...@gmail.com wrote:
 I hate racks and think we Riv owners hang way too much junk on our
 bikes, but man that is a beauty.  I'd put that on even if I never
 carried anything.



 On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 12:20 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 https://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/BIKESMISCELLANEA#5586195366486...
  Lighter than the already very light Fly and very stiff. I'll not put more
  than 25 lb on it anyway. I found that it is 1 cm too close to the rear
  fender at the fender's apogee, where the hooks/clips on the Ortliebs contact
  the fender. I cut material from the hooks and, for good measure dimpled the
  fender where the forward hooks contacted it, this last probably not
  necessary. I plan to bolt a battery light of some sort at the tail end of
  the rack; a hole is provided. Learn by experience: one more cm would have
  made all this unnecessary; my fault for not thinking of it.
  One little issue: the rack struts (nicely lugged at the attachment point)
  are about 1 cm wide so that even the 1 cm long eyebolt for Berthoud type
  fenders is too short. Does anyone know if one can get, say, 12.5 mm
  eyebolts? Alternatively, I could use regular 1 cm eyebolts to mount the rack
  -- the struts flatten at the mounting point -- so that the eyebolt would
  serve the two purposes. Will these be strong enough?
  Right now I am using P or R clips from VO attached at the strut-to-frame
  mounting points.

  --
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  For professional resumes, contact
  Patrick Moore, ACRW at patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

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[RBW] Grant says the Simple One will now be a cantilever bike

2011-03-20 Thread William
among other things...

http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/345

I know a lot of you prefer it that way.

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Re: [RBW] Grant says the Simple One will now be a cantilever bike

2011-03-20 Thread andrew hill
NICE!!  This just put it back on my shopping list, edging out a Handsome XOXO 
set up as a single speed.

On Mar 20, 2011, at 8:21 PM, William wrote:

 among other things...
 
 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/345
 
 I know a lot of you prefer it that way.
 
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[RBW] Re: Grant says the Simple One will now be a cantilever bike

2011-03-20 Thread charlie
Actually I would have preferred center or sidepulls. They are easier
to setup and I have some already. I may go another route anyway
so...perhaps the change will help sales for Rivendell and that
sounds like a good thing.

On Mar 20, 8:21 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
 among other things...

 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/345

 I know a lot of you prefer it that way.

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[RBW] Re: Today's brevet.

2011-03-20 Thread Lynne Fitz
Kevin - it was great riding with you!
Lynne F

see you on the Three Capes - looks like the weather will be...damp.

On Mar 15, 8:58 pm, Kevin Brightbill jaiete.ke...@gmail.com wrote:
 Mike! I don't think I met you on Saturday -- I remember seeing a
 rather beautiful A.H.H. at the start, though! I was on the white Colin
 Laing track bike... the one Birkie rider dumb enough to try it with a
 fixed gear! Hope to catch you for the Three Capes... though unless we
 get an unexpected forecast of 65 degrees and clear skies, I'll
 probably pull out my Trek 520 instead!

 Lynne, glad to see you on here -- it was a pleasure to meet up with
 you and Susan (and my friend Nick) near the end of the ride.

 Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Grant says the Simple One will now be a cantilever bike

2011-03-20 Thread Michael_S
certainly for me. I much prefer canti's. Never cared for those caliper
contraptions. The canti brake is so simple and works great too.
Now if Grant could grab some pics of that slimy green paint job, I
might just order one.

~Mike

On Mar 20, 9:18 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Actually I would have preferred center or sidepulls. They are easier
 to setup and I have some already. I may go another route anyway
 so...perhaps the change will help sales for Rivendell and that
 sounds like a good thing.

 On Mar 20, 8:21 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:



  among other things...

 http://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news_post/345

  I know a lot of you prefer it that way.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread Bob
I initiated a similar thread a few months ago, requesting differences
between the Toyo and Waterford build Atlantis, and the issue was never
fully resolved.  The question is not about quality but differences,
particularly gross features that are not beneath the paint. No one
chimed in regarding one likely difference, the more complex bends in
the Toyo chainstay.  Whether anyone should be concerned about such
differences is another issue, as is MUSA.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Japanese Atlantis vs Wisconsin Waterford Atlantis

2011-03-20 Thread robert zeidler
I have a Waterford on order as we speak, and already own a few and
some old Paramounts (just watch that show Hoarders to understand),
and like them very much.  The experience shows and Richard does all
the face time himself.

On Sun, Mar 20, 2011 at 5:30 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Khalid:

 I'm diving in here without reading any further posts, so forgive me if
 others make similar points.

 First, I'll bet there is absolutely ZERO difference in quality between
 Toyo  Waterford frames.  It's Rivendell's lugs  spec on the tubing.
 I'll speculate that Rivendell has sawed thru a lot of brazed joints to
 see what potential vendors produce, and that only the best are
 selected to produce frames.

 Second, only Riv could say whether there was a run on frames or
 not.  But people in general have a fear of change so some fence
 sitters may have been motivated to buy, knowing Toyo's reputation.

 On a more general note, Waterford has been building frames for a long
 time and has an excellent reputation.  I can't believe anyone could
 make them any better.

 FWIW, mine is an '03.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Waterford, and am
 willing to bet I couldn't tell the difference.  Well, they get a
 kickstand plate now which I'd really like to have.

 dougP

 On Mar 20, 8:38 am, Khalid Mateen krm2...@gmail.com wrote:
 I do not want to start a fiery debate about this but what makes japanese
 atlantis built bicycle superior to the American made ones?  Just curious.
 When there was an announcement that Rivendell would no longer have the Toyo
 plant build their bicycles, people with money to spare went after the last
 batch of those frames.  It is the steel?  The craftmanship?

 Regards,

 K.

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[RBW] Gray Shimano derailer cable housing busted

2011-03-20 Thread Earl Grey
Hi,

yesterday, as I shifted my Sam with alacrity into the big chainring,
the left silver shifter went past the limit of its range of motion
determined by the derailer limit screw. I thought perhaps the cable
had slipped, but then saw that the housing had burst in the loop
coming from the bar-end shifter:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/5545443939/

This is 1.5 year old silver gray Shimano SIS SD housing purchased from
Riv.

I have never burst derailer housing, nor have I ever heard of it
happening to others. Was this a manufacturing defect, low quality
housing, or caused by UV damage, which the gray housing is presumably
more subject to than black housing? Fortunately there remained enough
tension on the cable that I could move the derailer cage by hand to
shift and have it stay in place over the middle chainring.

Has anyone had a similar experience? There is some sign of rust inside
the housing, pointing towards a slow failure, probably starting with a
crack in the gray housing. The gray outer covering on the tight loop
leading to the rear derailer is also cracked. The bike is always
parked in the car port, and is only subject to direct sunlight when I
am riding or when it's parked outside the yoga studio or on errands
(about 8 hours a week).

I like the look of the silver, but if I have to replace the housing
once a year, I'll probably go with black housing, of which I have a
spool. Or should I go with silver gray *brake* housing, since I only
use friction shifting anyway?

Thanks,

Gernot


Cheers,

Gernot

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