[RBW] Re: My new 26" wheeled drop bar Atlantis
Wow. I've been looking at my TRP levers and thinking they would be easy to modify to long pull by doing exactly what you've done. I've been perfectly happy with the Tektro RL 520, but the TRPs have a really nice shape so I think this may be the route I take with my MB-1 that has been converted to drop bars and is awaiting further conversion to V-brakes. This is why I still read bike forums obsessively! Daniel M Berkeley, CA On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 9:20:34 AM UTC-8 David Person wrote: > Followed your link to your Esty store. Great patches. Order a couple of > Bike Tinkers Union patches. > > On Friday, November 13, 2020 at 6:54:42 PM UTC-8 Philip Williamson wrote: > >> >> I saw your lever hack and said, “O dude!” California born and bred here. >> That’s a great addition to the bike tinkering knowledge base. I’m pretty >> sure I’ll use that in the mid to near future. I’d be honored to send you a >> free Bike Tinkers Union patch and sticker set for that idea. >> Pick what you want, and let me know: >> https://www.etsy.com/shop/philipwilliamson >> >> Philip >> Santa Rosa, CA >> On Friday, November 13, 2020 at 9:02:28 AM UTC-8 dave_m...@yahoo.com >> wrote: >> >>> I am just about done putting this together and am really excited. I >>> purchased a 50cm frame from the garage sale section this summer. It is a >>> little smaller than what they would recommend for my 84 PBH, but given the >>> long top tube and my plan to use drop bars I felt pretty confident it would >>> work. I was attracted to the 26" wheeled Atlantis as such long running >>> model and I was interested in running the excellent 2.3" rat trap pass >>> tires. The other new thing I did was modify my TRP RRL levers to be used >>> with V-brakes. The strange shape of the lever allows an additional set of >>> holes to be drilled doubling the lever arm - it works great. I am still >>> experimenting with the stem lengths, but wanted to share my project. >> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/bcc02dca-64b9-4181-b323-8c3b0401f903n%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] Re: Platform pedal recommendations
I have VP platforms on a number of bikes and like them for light use but would never again use them for touring. The bearings that VP use are of a lower quality than those used by MKS (I think it has to do with the outer being a bushing with a plastic sleeve or something). Either way, I've had VP bearings fail in the field, not quite catastrophically but really, really annoyingly, and I've read reports of people who really liked the large platform of the Catalyst pedal switch to something else because of bearing failure. Whether it's the Sneaker Pedal or the Grip King or whatever it's called, you can feel instantly that MKS uses a higher quality bearing. I've settled on the platform pedals sold by Rene Herse: https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/pedals/mks-allways-pedals/ I don't mean to identify with a particular brand or bash another, but riding unsupported in Death Valley for days with a wobbling pedal is not something I wish to repeat. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/bb3797ec-59ca-427d-9dbb-972fdb1ea123o%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] What v-brakes for Susie?
Igor, Not sure if you've seen this but if it were me, I'd get the longest arms I could find. Looks like 110mm is easy to find and there is one Tektro model at 120mm: https://www.gravelbike.com/v-brake-arm-lengths/ Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b06914e6-3c51-45af-b981-cc052eb179fco%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels
Piling on in favor of your building your own wheel. I bought Jobst Brandt's book and read it cover to cover twice before building my own wheel. The first half of the book is theory, the second is practice. You could easily skip straight to the instructions, and if you follow them carefully you will end up with a properly laced and tensioned wheel. Only drawback is that Jobst doesn't reply to email anymore... I've now built six wheels: 2 dyno, 3 Rohloff, and one fixed, so nothing with extreme dish. I have beaten the first four of those to hell off road, touring, and off-road touring. It's been a great experience. I did buy a used truing stand, dishing tool, tensiometer and spoke wrenches from a mechanic before I started, but I could just as easily do it in the frame of a bike with a guitar pick. Anything you build carefully is likely to be better than a factory-built wheel that hasn't been touched up by a professional, which people buy and ride all the time. You won't regret it! Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/86044e39-fcd6-4a0f-9b5d-158cb2c8b722o%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: V-Brake and Canti...
I will also throw out there that finding a long-pull lever you can live with is a preferable solution than Travel Agents. I'd sooner go with a short-arm V-brake than use a Travel Agent, but there are significant benefits to long-pull brakes, both rim and mechanical disc, in that the cable is under less tension so the cable stretches less and the housing compresses less as a result. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c54df9d7-5527-4ed2-bcc1-bdd2477c1d18o%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] V-Brake and Canti...
Oh I see it's a Hillborne. My Hillborne had run-of-the-mill Deore V-brakes and it was one of the best braking bikes I've ever had. DM -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/ca027e1b-a8f5-4053-bcea-729ce141e86fo%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] V-Brake and Canti...
If you're getting shudder with a V-brake then I suspect you're just as likely, if not more, to get it with cantis, because as the fork flexes, the distance between the cable hanger and the brake itself changes, which leads to a feedback loop of exacerbated shudder. I'm a loudmouth V-brake evangelist, but if you've already gone to the trouble of a long-pull setup, I think you will find cantis a downgrade. Do you have a particularly flexible fork, BTW? Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/82fd3b85-f0a2-4c6e-94f1-8ec9cf1a470bo%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: New Riv cantilever brakes
I believe Grant is also working on a V-brake and I will certainly buy a set the moment they become available. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/e7f5f6e5-c579-487e-a899-60da2e9d4bcfo%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Pedal Strikes when Turning
I had an early orange Waterford canti-braked single top tube Hillborne in the early 2010s. The tradeoff of the stable high-speed handling was that the bike needed to be leaned really far to make a quick tight turn. The combination of this, the low bottom bracket, and my love of pedaling through turns meant I got A LOT of pedal strike. The most of any bike I've owned. And this was with either 165 or 167.5mm cranks (can't remember which). This is not to disparage the bike at all, rather to simply state that my example was not a good candidate for pedaling through tight turns. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/1033d422-75ab-4b70-b138-e85eda93ef0b%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] Re: Group Riding / New Covid-19 World
Thank you for calling it out, Justin. It's insidious and it's dangerous. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c1565549-98f6-4de0-a111-c136c2ccc5b6%40googlegroups.com.
[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations for an All-Rounder
If the Rat Trap Passes will fit, there is really nothing else like them. I run mine at 25psi whether paved, unpaved, loaded, or unloaded (Max rider + gear weight = 200lbs), and rarely get flats despite soldering on with tubes. Off-road, 20psi does feel nicer, but has subjected me to pinch flats and rim dings when hitting rocks or riding up curbs ungracefully and too fast. I also felt some of that squirminess that Benz describes when back on pavement. So for me the key was to find the absolute minimum pressure that doesn't feel squirmy on pavement and ride that pressure all the time. I can't imagine going back to narrower tires than a frame will fit; you gain so little and lose so much shock absorption, traction, and flat resistance due to the higher required pressure of the narrower tire. It's why I think all frames built for 650bx42mm are way better served by 26"x54mm if they will fit between the stays. Disc brakes, which I otherwise think are unnecessary for all-road bikes, make the conversion really easy to try. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/a024fd66-93eb-44c8-af34-a1579448d7f8%40googlegroups.com.
Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed gear bike packing
The moment I saw "fixie bikepacking" written as a joke by Bikesnob (whose writing I love), my first thought was: "You city people have got to get more imaginative than THAT! Out West we HAVE fixie-bikepacking. In the snow. One a Rivendell converted to horizontal dropouts. Wearing boiled wool and cotton fishnet." Truth is wilder and more interesting than fiction in almost every case. I must admit that the Deacon's posts here were part of the nudge that motivated me to build a 26" fixed wheel for an unused Troll frame / front wheel / most parts I had lying around and assembled into something I'd be comfortable locking up anywhere. It's been really great riding fixed from time to time after briefly dabbling about 10 years ago. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/defe853c-9570-42d5-89e3-ff61a04e52dd%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Fixed gear bike packing
Thank you for that photo. Wide tires, wide rims, drop bars at a reasonable height, and a balanced load. It seems to get forgotten and rediscovered over time. I will stick with my Rohloff for touring and more upright bars if the going gets rough enough, however, and keep my fixie riding around town for the time being... Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/695e8e02-3778-479e-b29e-f2bb91388da1%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Plus Tires for GBW
Not to mention the GBW takes 27.5" wheels/tires and not 29", if I'm not mistaken. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/7c278bb3-c566-42b3-ad23-fcb4a8b7571b%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Plus Tires for GBW
I can confirm that the tread has worn pretty quickly, but since I'm on the eternal hunt for a 26x3.0" slick, I'm OK with it! I don't think mine have a huge number of miles on them, but heavily-loaded touring has been a large proportion of those miles, and that will wear down knobs quickly on almost any tire. I think I've got at least four 5-ish-day-long loop tours on my pair: two in Death Valley, one in Southern Utah, and one Monterey to Big Sur and back. The roads in Death Valley are frankly abhorrent - not rocky roads, just rock roads, and my only incidents were one pinch flat on each tour due to pushing the low pressure ideal a bit too far with a heavy load while descending said rock roads a bit too quickly. The Utah and Big Sur trips had some long paved sections, and I was really grateful for the reasonably low rolling resistance on those - my friend on a 4" fatbike couldn't keep up with me on the pavement, despite having drop bars. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4081f227-0e1f-4f72-a5e4-2d6a1de38394%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Plus Tires for GBW
I've been riding 26x3.0" WTB Rangers on my desert touring tank (in the lightest casing - I forget the exact name) and am really impressed with them. Light and supple in the hand, and certainly the best rolling knobby tire I've ever ridden on pavement. Widely-spaced knobs just like Compass / RH tires. I previously tried 26x2.8" Vee Speedsters and they are some of the worst tires I've ever ridden. Nearly impossible to mount or dismount, and the opposite of supple - they stand off the rim when fully deflated despite being a folding bead. And, while they look like a slick tire, they are more accurately "micro-knobbed" with a layer of rubber tread that is both stiff and adhesive to pavement in the worst way. Like riding velcro tires along a carpet. And they are so stiff that the ride at 18psi is no better than my 26x2.35" Supermotos (no longer available) at 25psi, despite their dramatically greater volume. So I would recommend 27.5x2.8" Rangers and will have a hard time ever ordering another Vee tire again. Hope that helps, Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/4ca4bd97-554c-440a-a865-9b4ac8fd58bc%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?
I think reading this entire thread may have been worth it for Vlad the Implier. I'm gonna think of that every time I ever hear about the better-known Vlad every time for the rest of my life. Vlad the Impaler: "My enemies will meet their demise when my sword runs through their torsos!" Vlad the Implier: "We have ways of settling our differences which may not be entirely beneficial to those who oppose us." Also: didn't Islabikes go bankrupt at some point relatively recently? If they were reorganized or reincarnated by a buyout, it might explain a subsequent push to broaden their market in a manner that seems to run counter to their originally-stated intentions. They might actually believe that expanding their offerings to include more marketable and profitable options will allow them to keep selling their original product line alongside. I am merely speculating on all counts. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Secu clips for front fender
I second Patrick's "shove hard" advice, with the added suggestion of squeezing the two stays together while you do it. It makes the loop in the stays where they meet slightly narrower and thus slightly easier to get back into the mount. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Things I wish Rivendell still sold..
And here I was thinking I was the only one holding a candle for lightweight 26"-wheeled allroad bikes! I bought a pristine 1993 Bridgestone MB-1 a few years ago, converted it to drop bars (a la the 1987 model), and put on a pair of Rat Trap Pass ELs. It's my favorite road bike I've ever had - the confidence, handling, and cornering grip on pavement are astounding, and when flying down rough dirt roads and trails, I occasionally say to myself "this thing is really good off-road too ... oh wait, it's a mountain bike!" I then built a Rohloff - disk brake equivalent around a New Albion Drake frame intended for 650b/27.5"/584 wheels with tire widths ranging from 42-48mm. I instead built a 26"/584 wheelset and run standard Rat Trap Pass tires (52mm) on that one. It's basically all I ride now - high, flared drop bars, quiet, maintenance-free drivetrain with perfect shifting across all 14 gears even while stopped, and a cloudlike ride over all surfaces, It's definitely heavier then the MB-1, but I only notice that when lifting it, not while riding it! There is nothing like either of these bikes available off the shelf, which is a pity. Going down to a 26" rim and running the widest and tallest ultra-lightweight tire available makes me wonder why anyone would want a larger rim diameter. And my MB-1 is the largest size they came in (20.5"?) and my Drake is a (virtual) 58cm, the second largest size, so the sizing the wheel to the frame thing doesn't make sense to me when there are wider (i.e. taller) tires available in 26" than in other sizes. In my experience the height of the tire off the rim makes far, far, far more difference to me than the diameter of the rim. I run 20x2.0" Big Apples on my Dahon folding bike and ride that thing on all sorts of dirt roads and trails as well. Think about that: it's only a 20" rim, but the tires are wider than the widest lightweight 650b tire (48mm) currently available! That said, 26"(559) and 27.5"(584) are really close to each other; in reality, 27.5" rims (650b/584) are much closer to 26" rims (559) than to 29" rims (700c/622) If all things were equal, then I think the difference between 26" and 27.5" rims would start to be a bit of hair-splitting. For example, my adventure touring tank is a Surly Troll (also Rohloff-ed and also XL - I like my frames big even though I'm only 5'9") running 26x3.0" WTB Rangers. My friend's Marin Pine Mountain (really nice bike) has 27.5x3.0" Schwalbes, and when the two bikes are next to each other, the overall wheel size difference is minimal. So since there are plenty of adventure frames intended for 27.5x3.0" tires and plenty of tires available to match, I will survive if 26" adventure tires become unavailable. It will mean new rims and a new frame, but we are still a long way from that point. But, for road tires, all things are NOT equal. The Rat Trap Passes are the widest lightweight tires available, and only available in 26", and frankly that combo fits a lot of road-oriented frames better than a 27.5/650b x 52mm tire would, especially if you want to run fenders as well! So I will keep a bike or two capable of running RTPs as long as they are availabe, and at this point that means nothing from Riv. The two 26" wheeled 58cm Atlantises that popped up for sale in the past few weeks are the closest they've come in recent years, and those are drool-worthy. I wish Riv would make a utilitarian, TIG-ed, 26"-wheeled bike in the lightest tubing they are willing, like a Roadini or AHH, but built like a single person HubbuHubbuH. I would call it the HubbuH. It would have the threadless 1+1/8" steerer and the Eccentric Bottom Bracket and ONE of the disk-brake eyelets from the tandem, and no double top tubes! That way I could set it up with derailers like my MB-1 or with my Rohloff like the Drake. (The EBB is needed to tension the chain, and the single disc-brake eyelet is used to for the anti-torque arm). This would be the perfect all-rounder: room for up to 26"x60mm tires with fenders, and useable with derailers, but also as a singlespeed/fixed gear or with a Shimano or Rohloff internal hub. The best part is that HubbuH could be taken as "hubber", as in the first Rivendell that plays nicely with IGHs. Since the HubbuHubbuH uses two headbadges, this would only require one. It could be built using parts they have already used in the past, and it would give them a nicer alternative to the Breezer Uptown 8 that I otherwise recomend to anyone who will listen. I think I have given this too much thought, and written words, for that matter. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
[RBW] Re: About a crash a Riv could have prevented
So, this may be really poor form on a forum dedicated to a bike company we all hold dear, but when I am asked to recommend a practical town bike, my answer is always the same: Breezer Uptown 8. Upright riding position with slightly swept bars, aluminum frame available in standard or low-step versions, steel fork, 26" wheels with V-brakes and clearance for 2.0" tires, rear rack and fenders, 8-speed Shimano internal gear hub with fully enclosed chain case AND front dyno with lights. Still under $900 new. It has nowhere near the grace of a Rivendell and not enough gear range to tackle steep hills while loaded, but it is the perfect entry-level daily "no excuses" bike as someone mentioned here. If there were another brand/model with all of these features, I would mention it in the same breath, but I can't find anything even close and it's going on 10 years now. I bought one for my dad and then my mom; they became weekend riders as a result. I recommended one to a friend who became a daily bike commuter using it. I recommended one to my wife's mom who bought one to replace a 700c hybrid (that I had installed fenders on a few years earlier) and I don't think she's ridden the old bike since. Finally, I found a used one for my cousin who started college this fall and she loves it. So if you fail to talk someone into a nicely-appointed Clem, this would be my next suggestion. If the user wears it out or their tastes evolve, they could upgrade to a Riv later, because by then they'll be sold on the virtues of a practical bike! Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET
I'm also around 165lbs and the steep hills around here keep me in shape. Almost all of my miles these days are on a pair of Rohloff bikes and a fixie, but I'm in the habit of maintaining and modifying derailer bikes for my wife and a few friends, plus I have a few beloved derailer bikes in the collection. Here is my current thinking on derailer setups: 110/74 double or triple with bash guard in place of outer ring, 46/30 or 44/28. 8-speed cassette, 12-34 Reasoning: 6/7/8 speed use the same chain. They are cheap, reliable, and available with a master link. 8/9/10 use the same hub spacing. So 8-speed is the magic overlap of availability, simplicity, and affordability. Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters are still available and have a friction bailout. I like indexed bar-ends for drop bar bikes where I really want the shift to be right the first time. For upright bikes, you can mount the Shimano bar-end shifters on Thumbies at great expense, but these days I've been combing the local bike collective for 80's friction thumbshifters. I put the classic Suntours on my wife's bike plus a friends, and I just picked up the Shimano equivalent for another friend's city bike. For an upright bar where the shifters are always easily accessible from the grip, I'm fine with friction - especially on spouse's and friends' bikes for which I would otherwise be responsible for keeping the indexing adjusted! It looks like 10-speed will be available for a good long time, so you can always update the cassette if 8-speed goes the way of the Dodo. AND: weirdly enough, Sunrace's 10-speed bar-end shifters have a friction option! (The 8-speeds don't for some reason.) So 2x10 remains palatable in the future if 8-speed becomes a parts-hunting endeavor. All of my favorite crank options (besides Rene Herse) are on Soma's web store under Touring Cranks: https://store.somafab.com/touringcranks.html If I were buying a crankset new and it had to be square taper, I'd probably go with the IRD Defiant and its 94bcd, which might limit you to 30t granny. But 30-34 is a nice low climbing gear for a road bike! I actually really like external BB (Hollowtech) cranksets because they are so easy to remove for travel. So if I were building a road bike right now, I'd probably put the IRD Lobo on it. 110/74 double, which gives you all the options, and I think it's slightly cheaper and slightly better-looking than the Sugino OX cranks. Finally, 11-tooth cogs are one tooth too small for me. 12-tooth wears out fast enough! As goes your cog, so goes your chain, so if you skip the 11-tooth your cassette and chain should both last longer - on the order of 10%. This might not be everybody's cup of tea, but I think you end up with a nice wide-range cassette and an all-around ring with a granny bailout, using durable, reliable parts that are inexpensive to replace when you wear them out. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg
> Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept? >From the BLUG some time ago, assuming it displays correctly: Daniel "I think I just bottom-posted" M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Picture from the Blahg of Gus in action
If you hadn't said anything, I would have guessed that's a Bosco Bullmoose in front and the upcoming Wavie bar in the rear. Am I crazy to still think this? Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: MUSA Sam H.
I'm going on memory alone here, but with the first generation of orange Sams that came out around 2008, (second generation overall after the original hideous green ones with even longer top tubes), the ones with canti studs were made by Waterford and the ones without were made in Taiwan. I had a 56cm, single-top-tube, canti-studded (I ran V-brakes), orange Sam that was definitely made by Waterford. I remember noticing that canti studs were TIG'ed - not important to me as lugs were never a reason I chose Riv - I wanted high bars, clearance for large tires, V-brakes and plenty of braze-ons, and it checked all of those boxes. Eventually I realized that I wanted smaller wheels with larger tires, so I replaced it with a 650b Boulder All Road and kept on going all the way back to 26" with a pristine 1993 MB-1 whose praises I just sang in another thread. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What epoch of Rivster are you?
Prequel / Proto-proto / Embryo... There is nothing in Rivendell's current lineup that excites me nearly as much as my 1993 Bridgestone MB-1 that I converted to high flared drop bars (basically recreating the 1987 cockpit) and shoed with extralight Compass tires. If I were to try to improve on this design, I'd give it an up-sloping (and slightly shorter) top tube and a longer head tube so it wouldn't need such a tall stem to get the bars so high (NORBA geometry is long and low). I'd gladly accept TIG welds instead of lugs, and I'd frankly prefer 1+1/8" threadless, but these are minor nitpicks. The bike is athletic, lightweight, flexy in the right way, and wonderfully quick on rough surfaces. If Riv were to re-design this bike today (they kinda just did), it would have heavier tubing, super-long chainstays, and 650b wheels, none of which would be improvements for me. There is something about the creative tension of the Bridgestone bikes (racing-driven market forces vs. Grant-driven practicality) that I love. It's why the Police and the Smiths are far better bands than any of the solo projects that followed. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Cutting rack struts without a vice
aand leave it to Google Groups to make it really difficult to post photos (or reply privately) from a mobile device AND to rotate the photo in the process. We all deserve better. Apple and Google USED to put the user first. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Anaerobic Power, Aerobic Effort
Hi Deacon, One of my first full-scale bike tinkering projects about 8 years ago was converting a 90’s Japanese steel road bike to fixed gear. I really enjoyed it but it was a little too small for me, so I sold it after a few months. I have another fixie project in my mind for the future and your enthusiastic posts have done nothing but encourage me. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Anaerobic Power, Aerobic Effort
If you put continuous forward pressure on a freewheel drivetrain, there is NO
difference from putting continuous forward pressure on a fixed gear drivetrain.
The top of the chain is taut and the bottom is slack; there is simply no
"freewheel effect" or, for that matter, any difference at all between the two
drivetrains when you are applying forward pressure. I've seen so many
descriptions and claims that a fixed drivetrain allows you to apply torque
through greater portion of the pedal stroke and this is just nonsense; if you
apply continuous forward pressure, the rear cog has no "knowledge" of whether
it will freewheel or not when that pressure is released.
This is not to say there isn't something magic about riding a fixed gear. I can
imagine that if you get tired and begin to let off pressure at the top/bottom
of your power stroke so as to be momentarily torque-neutral, the fixed
drivetrain carrying the pedals past the top/bottom might be welcome, but that
only applies if you stop applying forward pressure. I also suspect that fixed
gear setups often end up on relatively lightweight steel frames, and that being
forced to mash up hills in high gears enables people to experience frame flex
("planing", but I'm not a fan of that term) for the first time. If planing is a
thing, then this DOES in fact allow you to transmit more power per stroke, but
this is due to the (elastic potential) energy momentarily stored in the frame
at max flex, not due to some drivetrain magic.
Daniel M
Berkeley, CA
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[RBW] Re: Up Your Vis Game
Jan’s opinions about visibility make about as much sense to me as Grant’s notions about diet. Some nuggets of wisdom in both cases, with extreme conclusions drawn that I disagree with in the end. Jan dismissed reflective tire sidewalls as ineffective out of hand and thinks a single red dot, which gives other road users no depth perception whatsoever, is preferable to additional reflective surfaces. He mentions the very real effect of target fixation on bicycles and police cars, without calling the strobing lights into question in both cases. I feel very strongly that using flashing lights on bicycles after dark is a really really bad idea. A bllinding, strobing dot in the distance dazzles other drivers and cyclists, gives no depth perception, and makes it harder to see anything other than the flashing light itself. A solid rear light that illuminates a larger area like the Toplight Line Plus, etc, coupled with reflective leg bands, vest/harness, reflective tire sidewalls and/or reflective tape on the fenders, gives other road users a steady image which conveys the size and distance to the bike and rider they are passing or overtaking without dazzling them with a strobing light show. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: DIY: Blow up a chain into two pieces
Deacon P, Sounds like you chose a cog on your cassette that was outboard of the position of your chainring in front, so the chainline itself was acting like a derailer trying to shift you into a bigger (inner) rear cog, which the chain was too short to accommodate and which your legs were plenty strong enough to annihilate. No doubt the ramps on the whatever-glide cassette were complicit in lifting the chain up to the bigger cog. I've done the same conversion - under duress, in the field. I was riding my old mountain bike on a trail in the forest near my parents' house, climbing a reasonably steep hill, when my chain got wedged in front. I suppose I was shifting to my granny and thought it had gone cleanly to the small ring, but the one thing I remember for sure was that I proceeded to pedal full force, felt a moment of binding and then BANG! I was sure I had broken the chain, but the chain and I were in fact strong enough to shear the rear derailer in two pieces right through the thickest part of the body! I guess the chain got jammed on the slack side in front and couldn't feed any more chain to the derailer, which continued to get pulled by the tensioned side of the chain. This bike did not have a U-brake (which had been responsible for most of my previous occurrences of chain suck) but it is entirely likely that the chain and rings were worn out, underlubricated, and/or grimy from previous overlubrication. Not wanting to push a disabled bike up a long hill home, I broke the chain and removed the rear derailer (which still had the chain fed through the pulleys), placed the chain on the middle ring in front, and stretched the chain to the middle of the cassette, hoping to find a magic gear in the middle that would fit an integer number of chain links with a reasonable all-around gearing. I found one that worked, used my link tool to shorten the chain, and put it back together (I think with a master link) as a singlespeed, which I proceeded to ride up the hill home. I was not yet much of a bike mechanic so I was quite proud of myself at the time. The chain held its position on the rear cassette for the short ride home, but I wonder if I had continued to ride it if it would eventually have wandered to an adjacent cog, and if so, in the slacker (i.e. non-destructive) direction, or in the direction you seem to have experienced. I enjoy your ride stories and sardonic grins. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] WTB: Nitto R-14 without tombstone
Also posted on i-BOB: A rear platform rack is the last piece of the puzzle on my first-ever bottom-to-top bike-and-wheel build. I've cobbled together my ultimate do-it-all rough road touring bike: a new (non suspension-corrected) Surly Troll frame with a used Rohloff out back and a new SP dynohub up front, both laced (by me; first time) to 26" Velocity Dually rims, which allow me to run my beloved 2.35" Supermotos and experiment with tires in the 2.8-3.0" range for the horrendously bad backroads of Death Vallley and the like. Riv is out of stock; I can find other sources but the price of these things has gone up quite a bit since I last owned one! Does anyone have a Nitto R-14 WITHOUT the tombstone that they would be willing to sell to me at a reasonable pre-owned price? They pack flat so shipping should be pretty easy! Thanks in advance for all replies. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Advice for Poser Fixed on Flip Flop of ss/ss hub
Right-hand threading is right-hand threading no matter which way you orient it. That's why the "right-hand rule" work for tightening/loosening regardless of which way the bolt is facing and which way you want it to go, as does the left-hand rule for left-side pedals and right-side bottom brackets. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam
The VP Aim is my current favorite. I saw them for the first time at NAHBS in Sacramento last year and bought a pair a few weeks later at Sea Otter. I find then very aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. Simple, minimalist design, available in silver, and slight concavity that helps keep your foot in place along with the pins. I also like that the axle extends all the way to the edge of the pedal. I put a pair on my MB-1 and they go very nicely with the rest of the bike and I love the way they feel underfoot. http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-aim/ Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
RE: [RBW] Re: Rohloff IGH Questions
Another multi-Rohloff owner chiming in here. First, regarding shifting effort, it definitely requires more effort than a derailer or a Shimano IGH, but the reason is that you are feeling the effort required to change the gears in the hub itself, as opposed to just advancing the indexing in the shifter. That is to say, if you disconnect the shift box from the hub, the shifter will simply freewheel back and forth through its range. If you feel a shift, you got a shift, unlike the Shimano IGHs, which have a nice snappy click that only means that the shift cable moved; sometimes you are left waiting for he shift to take place. If, however, the shifting effort is as you describe, something is wrong with the cable or the shifter. I recently replaced my cable and housing for the first time after four years of touring and daily commuting, in addition to replacing my original twist shifter with the 2nd generation shifter (I kept the original as a backup), and the shift effort is reduced dramatically. It was perfectly fine before, even though the cable was starting to fray - now it's easier and has less free play. As for momentary freewheeling, this should never happen and the hub is covered by a lifetime warranty regardless of whether or not you are the original buyer. Contact Cycle Monkey; they will either fix it or swap in a new (maybe refurbished) gear mechanism into your existing hub/wheel. Of course, pausing while shifting cures most problems, but the hub is designed to never freewheel. And that's precicely why I'm so in love with my Rohloffs - the failure mode is still a workable condition that would allow me to finish any trip. Very low temperatures can cause the gear oil to gel which can result in freewheeling. In those conditions, you are advised to run a 50/50 mixture of the normal oil and the light cleaning oil. In extreme cold applications, you can run 100% cleaning oil, but if the bike is brought into room temperature, some of the thin oil can leak past the seals. My first Rohloff was a Craigslist find, new in box with all the documentation but between 5 and 10 years old. When I brought it to Cycle Monkey, they commented that my serial number was in the 10,000s, whereas production was past 100,000 at that point. I originally had a wheel built and had the system retrofitted on to my old Gary Fisher Hoo Koo e Koo for touring with a Bob trailer. This required both the long torque arm and the chain tensioner. Both are so extremely well thought-out and executed that they never caused any hassle whatsoever. I did have a bit of freewheeling and Cycle Monkey made a small adjustment which fixed the problem. Eventually, I realized that I wanted a fully rigid touring bike so I could run front panniers, so I went with a Thorn Raven Tour. Without any insult intended to Riv, it is a lot like a TIGed, Rohloff-specific Bombadil. It has a massive twin-plate fork crown, a big, simple, eccentric bottom bracket so no tensioner is needed, and an OEM 2 rear dropout which makes the torque arm unnecessary. I have done everything on this bike. Thousands of miles of fully loaded and self-supported tours including many miles of rough dirt roads and trails, plus everyday commuting and grocery getting, and the occasional cargo extravagance, like strapping a gas grill to the rear rack and riding it to a park for a picnic, or a case of beer in bottles on the rear and a full load of groceries in the panniers. In all that time, zero dropped chains, ever. Zero missed shifts, ever. Total maintenance in four years is two oil changes and one replacement of cables and housing. The bike is a tank, however; around 39lbs without anything on the racks. So I became obsessed with Surly's Troll, found a frame on Craigslist, and then found the ultimate Craigslist miracle: a Rohloff-equipped mountain bike for $1100. I bought it, removed the wheelset and drivetrain, converted it to single-speed, and sold it for about $600. My Troll is now up and running with Rohloff wheelset, 26"x60mm Schwalbe Big Apples, and Salsa Woodchipper bars. It's my first self-built, self spec'd bike, and it is so fantastically versatile it blows my mind. Slick tires and drop bars means long days on pavement are no problem. The huge air volume means fire roads and singletrack are completely in the realm of possibility with a little drop in air pressure. And the reliability of the Rohloff means I just jump on and ride with no thought to shifting, ever. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Meet Your Maker
I'm riding up to West Sacramento from Berkeley right now (currently surfing the net in Walnut Creek) and plan to camp near the venue and ride the long loop tomorrow. I'm expected at a barbecue in Sacramento tomorrow evening anyway, so why not? Only hitch is RBW list-relevance. I sold my Hillborne a few years ago and will be on my frankenstein Surly Troll with flared drop bars. Feel free to say hi if you see me. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Meet Your Maker
I'm riding up to West Sacramento from Berkeley right now (currently surfing the net in Walnut Creek) and plan to camp near the venue and ride the long loop tomorrow. I'm expected at a barbecue in Sacramento tomorrow evening anyway, so why not? Only hitch is RBW list-relevance. I sold my Hillborne a few years ago and will be on my frankenstein Surly Troll with flared drop bars. Feel free to say hi if you see me. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne and Big Ben 50's revisited
Re: Supermotos vs. Big Apples: The Big Apples are wire bead with a Kevlar (or similar) belt for flat protection. In 26/559, they come in 2.0(50mm), 2.15(55mm), and 2.35(60mm). The Supermotos are a folding bead with no anti-flat belt. I'm relatively sure that in 26, they come only in 2.35/60mm, and must be imported from the EU. I think they can be found in 29 size domestically. I have experience with Big Apples in 26x2.0 and 2.15 and they are suberb, but I am absolutely in love with the 26x2.35 Supermotos. I had them on my heavy-as-a-tank touring bike and I felt they were a definite improvement over the Big Apples in both suppleness and rolling resistance (could be entirely psychological, of course), and since moved the pair to my newest project, a Surly Troll with Woodchipper drop bars. I swear that bike rolls so smoothly and sweetly that I'm questioning my need for a separate road bike at all. Seeing Jan Heine and Rawland announce their new foray into big smooth 26 rubber just as I was putting the finishing touches on that bike was kind of vindicating - I'd been calling myself a 26 apologist up to that point! Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: OT (grant-related, not Riv-related): lo-carb, high fat protein, ketosis, c.
My friend, who is an anthropologist, has a rather different take on the barefoot running / paleo diet thinking, which I will not get into now, except to share this comic just inside the suggested noon cutoff. I copied and pasted it into this window so my fingers are crossed that it is viewable to everybody else. Those 20th-century guys were really on to something, no? In the paleo - times that we look upon wistfully, the expected lifespan was something like 35 years! I don't mean to fan the flames of debate further - I see good things in both sides of both arguments, but for me humor is always the best medicine! Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumbies?
My understanding is that the Microshifts are index-only (no friction option as with the Shimano / Thumbie option), but that the proprietary ones that come on Surlys (but are not sold separately) do have the friction option. Can anyone confirm or deny all or part of this? Daniel M Berkeley, CA P.S. I particularly love it when using the Microsoft shifters and I need to up or downshift, so I push or pull the lever, nothing happens, I push or pull it further in the same direction, then the shifter turns into a spinning blue wheel for a minute, and then later I get the entire sequence of shifts all at once at a completely inappropriate time. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice
Chris: It is a Thorn Raven Tour. Not custom, probably low-volume, designed specifically for the Rohloff hub. It's not a direct replacement for the Hillborne in any way, shape, or form - it's a nearly 40-pound touring / city / fleeing-the-zombie-apocalypse bike. I wouldn't even THINK of attempting a double century on it, but I can't imagine ever touring again without a Rohloff. That said, the 26 LHT is probably one-third of the price, considerably lighter, and still completely versatile and reliable. Daniel Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Considering my first Riv purchase and looking for helpful advice
I will submit my opinion to add to the variety. I owned a Sam Hillborne for two years. I bought it brand new, rode it in a double-century, later added front and rear racks and rode it from Berkeley to the Oregon-Washington border and back. It was/is a near-perfect all rounder. So why did I sell it? I wanted something with smaller wheels and bigger tires. The Hillborne in my size (no longer made 56cm, single top tube, cantilever brakes) happened to come with 700c wheels and I was running the biggest tires that I could fit with fenders: Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 700x40. What happened is that I finally built the touring bike of my dreams with a Rohloff hub and 26 wheels (and currently running 60mm tires with fenders) and I was kind of blown away by the stability of the touring geometry coupled with the agility of the smaller wheels. The Hillborne was incredibly stable on descents but REALLY reluctant to change direction quickly around town - kind of the complaint about 29ers (AKA 700c) that has sent people to 27.5 (AKA 650b) in the mountain bike world. If I hadn't built up the touring bike, I would probably still own the Hillborne, but I didn't need two touring bikes, so when I stumbled across a reasonably-priced used 650b randonneuring bike I bought it and sold the Hillborne for the same amount of money. When it came time to choose an all-around bike for my wife, who is 5'10, we chose a Long Haul Trucker in the 58cm frame size with 26 wheels. We also swapped out the drop handlebars for upright, swept bars, and replaced the canti brakes with V-brakes. I really think it is the ideal all-round bike. So comfortable, capable of hauling whatever you can put on it, and 2.0 (50mm) Big Apples are wonderfully smooth on pavement and stable and capable off of it. If my main uses were as you describe, rides under 40 miles, getting groceries, and occasional touring, I would get it over the Hillborne in a heartbeat. If I intended to ride mostly lightly loaded and for longer distances (60+ miles), then I would seriously consider the Hillborne, which is less of a tank and more of a road bike, although the lack of canti posts on the current offerings I find really disappointing. My two cents in a nutshell. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: 26 Tire Suggestions?
My wife and two or three other friends with 26 Long Haul Truckers and one with a repurposed old 90's mountain bike have all run 2.0 Big Apples and love the way they ride. One of them has upgraded to 2.15 Big Bens and they fit the Long Haul with fenders. I have a 26 touring tank (Thorn Raven Tour) and rode 2.15 Big Apples for a couple of years until the rear was worn smooth (er - even smoother!). I think I had one flat the entire time and loved the way they rode as well. Since then I've upgraded to 2.35 Super Motos (basically a Big Apple with a folding bead and no kevlar belt). All I can say is - I'm in heaven. It sounds like they might be a bit too big to fit your bike (though for the record, the nice people at Thorn told me they doubted a 2.35 would fit the frame even without fenders and it fits fine with them - SKS P65s). I did have to order them from Germany, but the cost was not much more than a pair of Big Apples when all was said and done. I haven't tried Kojaks but I hear great things about them - if I had to limit myself to a 2.0 this would very likely be my choice. I am confused by the other posters recommending Compass 2.0s - if I were convinced of their existence I would find them very intriguing, but the website only shows 1.5 and 1.75 and my current philosophy is to run the biggest, supplest, lightest tire that will fit. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for riding Sandals?
I love my Chacos. I prefer the ones without the big toe loop so I can wear them with or without socks. They have a heel strap and it works entirely with a friction-slide buckle, so no velcro to wear out or snap buckle to break. I love the fact that I can loosen them all the way and step into them hands-free and walk around for hours before I notice that I forgot to tighten them. In a perfect world, they would be a little bit thinner and a bit less sculpted - and as such closer to the current barefoot ideal, but I think the fact that the straps pass under the footbed makes a certain amount of thickness unavoidable. I tried on a newer, much thinner model, but the straps went through some plastic-y bars above the footbed and just didn't seem as well made. I have lost count of how long I have had mine, but I love riding and walking in them when the weather is warm, plus I strap them to my pack as alternate / in-camp / creek crossing footwear on almost all of my backpacking trips, etc. I think the model is ZX/2 or something like that, but it's the classic original model without the big toe loop. Daniel Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Coffee questions
Just to point out: over-extraction does not result from too much (er, many) coffee grounds being used. It's a combination of too few grounds / too much water / too much extraction time. I find that using a generous amount of very coarse grind with a slow pour-over is a very forgiving method. Comes out strong, rich, and smooth. Time to make coffee! Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
[RBW] Re: Coffee questions
It can be done without a scale and a timer with very good results. It all depends on how much you want to obsess. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
Re: [RBW] Re: Recommended Coffee Grinder
The Hario I mentioned earlier costs $25 on Amazon at the moment. Ceramic burr grinder, easily and quickly adjustible. No need to go boutique-y unless you want to. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Recommended Coffee Grinder
Wow - I can't believe I'm compelled to chime in here, but I switched to a hand-grinder a few years ago when my electric burr grinder gave up the ghost. I disliked how loud the electric grinder was and REALLY disliked how much static electricity it imparted into the grinds - a small portion of the grounds always sprung into the air and landed on the walls, counter, stove, etc. I've been using the Hario mini-mill: http://www.amazon.com/Hario-Coffee-Mill-Slim-Grinder/dp/B001804CLY It's the only hand-grinder I've owned, so I can't provide a direct comparison, but it does take longer than an electric grinder. Interestingly, it takes almost exactly the same amount of time for me to grind my portion of beans that it takes for the water to boil. I LOVE the fact that the grounds don't become electrostatically charged so I can simply pour them into my cone filter - no brush required, no more wayward grounds. First world problem solved, captain. I put an elastic hair band around the middle portion so I can keep the crank handle snug against the body of the grinder between uses and when I pack it for car camping. Full disclosure: for backpacking (or bikepacking, I suppose), I have switched to St-rb-cks Via. It is so much better than standard instant coffee, and fits the austere nature of backpacking for me a bit better than taking my collapseable filter cone along with me. In the past I would pre-grind (the horror!) for backpacking trips so I didn't have to add the grinder to the load. Oh, and: I received an electric goose-neck slow-pour kettle as a wedding gift this summer. For those who haven't switched to the Aeropress, it is a miracle. You can set the final temperature (ideally a bit below boiling temperature), and have it hold at that temperature until you are ready. I fill my mug with cold water, pour it into the kettle, set it for 205 degrees Fahrenheit, and when I'm done grinding the water is ready and I simply pour out the entire contents without having to measure. It works perfectly. I know that we coffee connoisseurs are supposed to pre-rinse our filters, but I just can't be bothered. I also LOVE the original, full-sized Aerobee flying ring! Oh, and bicycles too! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: School me on Panaracer gumwall casing design.
In my experience gumwalls are suceptible to UV degradation and always seem to fail before the tread as a result. On a much less important note, they show dirt and grime. I prefer blackwall. Tires are in constant contact with the ground; I don't need them to look pretty anywhere near as much as I need them to last long. The perfect decoration for an otherwise-boring blackwall? Reflective stripe. I love my Hetres and my SuperMotos, but I miss the reflective stripe of the Big Apples and Marathon Supremes. What an incredible visibility improvement. Daniel M -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] FS: 650b front wheel and tires, plus Berthoud bag with decaleur
Hi all, I bought a 650b randonneur from a very nice seller who had ridden it perhaps three times in the two years he had owned it. I ended up swapping out the front wheel for one with a dynohub, the tires for 42mm Hetres, and the rando bag for something a bit taller. As a result, those items are barely used and for sale: 28 Spoke 650b Front Wheel - Dura-Ace Hub with Velocity Synergy Rim - $100 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/3785535206.html Two 650bx34 Nifty Swifty Tires - $40 (Riv Content!) http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/3785075889.html Gilles Berthoud GB25 Randonee Bag and Velo Orange 1 Decaleur - $200 http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/3765181350.html I am in Berkeley, CA and would prefer to sell locally, but the bag would be easy to ship, the tires are wire bead but can be shipped if you don't mind my figure-eighting them, and the wheel could possibly be shipped pending discussion with the buyer. I would love to see these go to a good home rather than gather dust. Get in touch with me if you're interested. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Does anyone have any experience with the Public bikes basket on a Nitto M-12 front rack?
I have rigged up a Public Basket to a Nitto front rack on my Boulder All-Road. Public's spring-loaded bottom clamp mechanism does not give a particularly secure mount in the first place, so I have always augmented it on other racks with a pair of nylon straps. In the case of the Nitto front rack, the rack is so narrow that the clamp is basically at the end of its travel, and it barely contacts the front of the rack where it has begun to taper. However, with the use of the two nylon straps (one front, one rear) it ends up being quite secure. For a bike that I ride every day, I want a front basket to hold my courier bag while I ride. When I lock up the bike I just grab the courier bag and go. Nothing stays on the bike except the basket itself - I carry my tool kit, extra layers, iPad, etc in the bag. However, I LOVE being able to take the basket off in a matter of seconds and mount a randonneur bag in its place for recreational rides where I don't need to carry as much. Plus the Public basket is sized between the small and large Walds sold by Rivendell, and is about perfect for carrying my courier bag. I took photos but have no idea how to embed them. Sigh. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: FS in Berkeley, CA: 56cm Sam Hillborne, Orange, Single TT, Canti, Waterford-Built
The bike is still available, but the Craigslist posting has expired. Here is a link to the refreshed post: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/3656403116.html I hope I'm not violating any guideline or community etiquette by linking to my own craigslist post; I've never set up a Flickr or Picassa account before so this is the best way I know of to share photos. Feel free to contact me with any questions; I'd be happy to share my phone number once I know you're not a robot! Thanks again, Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] FS in Berkeley, CA: 56cm Sam Hillborne, Orange, Single TT, Canti, Waterford-Built
It is with some reluctance that I am selling my former everyday (and I mean every day) ride. It is nearly irreplaceable now, since all new 56cm Hillbornes have double top tubes and no canti posts. I have since bought a heavier touring bike and a lighter randoneurring bike, so the Hillborne no longer gets ridden, which is a shame. Here is a link to my craiglist post, with photos and a full rundown of the build: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/3635171287.html And for history's sake, links to the two times this bike appeared on the now-inactive EcoVelo website. Bad prose alert: http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/05/03/gallery-daniels-rivendell-sam-hillborne/ http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/10/21/daniel-mayeris-photo-contest-entry/ I rode the bike from Berkeley to Portland and back, twice in the Davis Double, as well as to work and back nearly every day for two years, plus innumerable day trips and shopping trips, so the bike is well-used. I have done my best to keep it well-maintained since I needed it to be a reliable everyday workhorse. The numerous chips in the beautiful orange paint might be a deterrent to a potential collector / wall-hanger, but the thought I put into the build, maintenance of the brakes and drivetrain, and overall versatility of the bike should be very appealing to anyone buying it with the intention of continuing to ride the hell out of it. It is the best all-rounder I have ever owned, and would probably be the bike I would keep if forced to get by with only one. With the racks, fenders, kickstand, pedals, and upgraded headset, I have over $3000 invested, so I feel I have priced it fairly at $1800. Please get in touch if you are interested - I can show it in downtown Berkeley or in nearby Kensington. Let me know if you are interested - it's a fantastic bike and I will miss it but I am simply out of bike room and I need to stay safely at a bike number of (s-1)! Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: These are my riding clothes
I had a similar experience earlier this year. I rode the Davis Double for my second (and possibly last) time, on my Hillborne with full fenders and 35mm Paselas, and wore my usual touring / long day attire: Nylon zip-off pants, long-sleeve button-down sun shirt, and comfortable low-top light hiking shoes. When I finished late that night (I am NOT fast), my friend, who finished well over an hour ahead of me (on a Long Haul Trucker with a flat bar and 26x2.0 Big Apples!!!) was talking with one of the volunteers and said something like Oh, there's my friend now. The woman he was speaking to said something along the lines of Oh, well he obviously had time to change, to which he said something like No, those are the clothes he rode in. Obviously didn't compute, just as it didn't to the riders on racing bikes when my friend cruised uphill past them on his Long Haul, sitting comfortably upright. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/0azmYoILsh4J. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Interrupters must be V-brake/disk specific
Tektro makes V-brake interruptors. Riv used to sell them, but unfortunately they stopped offering all V-brake equipment entirely recently. I have the interruptors on my Hillborne and they work spectacularly well. They feel jist like shorty mountain bike levers and have more stopping power than the primary levers did with my old canti brakes. Please someone ex -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/wipjixB6uxQJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Interrupters must be V-brake/disk specific
(Continued - argh iPhone!) ..explain to me why people prefer cantis to V-brakes. I just don't get it. Daniel M -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/_V3dio4W4ecJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: What’s Driving the 650B Explosion? Interviews, Tech Breakdown More! - Bike Rumor
Seeing the three wheel sizes next to each other, particularly with tires mounted, shows that 650B is way closer to 26 than 29. I would guess that the vast majority of riders would not notice the difference if you were to swap their wheels from 26 to 650B and back and not tell them. It all goes to further my feeling that 26 is a vastly underappreciated wheel size for city, country, and touring bikes. Daniel M On Thursday, June 7, 2012 11:49:43 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote: Detailed article on the spread of 650: http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/06/06/whats-driving-the-650b-explosion-interviews-tech-breakdown-more/ --Eric N -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/CuUkRBiv_lkJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Headset and bottom bracket life expectancy
Is this thread still active? I'll post my headset experience: I bought a new Sam Hillborne from Rivendell, assembled by them, in April of 2010. Within one month, the day after completing the Davis Double, I noticed that my headset was pitted, with a noticeable notch when the bars were turned straight ahead, thus requiring extra effort to turn away from straight ahead and spoiling the handling. Rivendell replaced the headset for me at no cost. Within one year, after a month-long tour from the Bay Area to Oregon and back, the headset had pitted again. I didn't ask Riv to replace it for free since this one had lasted longer, and instead bought a Cane Creek headset from them and had a local mechanic (Stefan at Cycle Monkey in Albany, CA) install it for me. When he pulled the old headset out he showed me the pitting marks on the lower race. His theory what that because the bearing keeper ring (I have no idea what this is actually called but it holds the bearings in place while you are assembling the headset) was left in the headset when it was installed (he gave me the impression he would have removed it had he done the installation), that the same points on the bearings always contacted the exact same points on the race as the headset turned, accelerating wear. He felt that without the keeper in place they would have rolled more randomly, slowing wear. Bottom line: since having the Cane Creek headset installed, I have had no problems. Note that I am somewhat of an abusive user; this bike gets ridden every day, is occasionally hopped up and (as gently as possible) ridden off curbs, often with a bag in the front basket, and it gets ridden on rough trails and fire roads from time to time. I think a lot of owners might put less wear on their bikes in one lifetime than I have each year. Daniel On Monday, April 2, 2012 6:30:12 AM UTC-7, shawn wrote: How many miles can one expect to get out of a typical headset and bottom bracket? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/c9g_TLFj7kMJ. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Touring Load and Packing list with weights
I will share my perspective here. Background: I backpack and bike tour multiple times per year, and have accepted that I will never be a lightweight camper. However I am always seeking ways to bring a little bit less. I am particularly dismayed when I do overnight trips and find myself carrying almost the same load as I would for a 3-4 day trip. That said, this is what I would personally eliminate from your packing list. Note that I did not say personally RECOMMEND; the most important thing is to go and do it your own way. That said: For a backpacking/bike touring itinerary with no days in town, I tend to pack 3-4 pairs of socks and 2-3 pairs of underwear, t-shirts, etc. (All wool/synthetic.) Beyond that, one pair of nylon zip--off pants, one set of wool long underwear tops/bottoms, one shell/rainpant combo, one wool jacket, one pair of neoprene socks - that's about it. From my perspective, you have WAY too much clothes. The french press and thermos sound more appropriate for car camping to me. I use a small plastic cone and bring a stack of paper filters and brew directly into my insulated mug. I will not even suggest any type of instant coffee. I have heard good things about the Aeropress as well. I would try to get by with just the iPhone and leave the IPad at home. I don't carry a chain whip. When I have needed to remove my cassette I pull the skewer and place the splined cassette tool on, and put the wheel back on the bike as close to the dropouts as possible, and use the chain on the bike as my chain whip. One foot on the pedal, adjustable wrench on the cassette tool, seatpost over the wrench for leverage and the cassette threads right off. Leave the hammer at home. You can almost always find a rock. I do carry a Katadyn (formerly PUR) hiker water filter. It's bulky but rather light. It's a backpacking necessity but nice to have on a bike tour as well. I never bother using it for cooking water - if it has come to a boil it's good enough for me. I use a Sweetwater prefilter to make the filter element last nearly indefinitely. Replacing $3 prefilters is preferable to replacing $50 filter elements! Even if you were to make all of these changes you will still have a rather extensive load and in no way reduce the justification for owning a Bombadil. My touring bike is also a heavyweight - Thorn Raven with Rohloff hub, so lightweight is pretty much out the window even before the bike is loaded! Enjoy the tour and may your tires stay inflated and your spokes unbroken. Daniel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Odd New Bike (HS)
I'm struggling to understand it. From what I can tell, the mixte-like rear stays curve to connect to the seat stay on the drive side, but to the chainstay on the non-drive side. My first reaction was that this was due to the inherent asymmetry in the stress on the rear triangle that results from having the drive chain on one side; many years ago I had a rear hub on an old MTB get so loose that the front of the rear tire rubbed the inside of the non-drive chainstay during hard pedal strokes due to the torque imparted (about a vertical axis) by the chain pulling forward on the right side of the rear wheel. I suppose, even with a properly adjusted hub, similar forces are communicated to the rear dropouts. I have no idea why this would be a way to address this, however. My second thought is that having the mixte stay attach to the chainstay is the ideal solution for whatever problem Grant is addressing, but that it would interfere with the chain on the drive side, so curving up to the seat stay is the next best thing. For some reason, meeting at the rear dropout is being avoided. Other things I can't help but notice: derailer hanger with a horizontal dropout so it can be run geared, singlespeed, or... IGH? Appears to have shifter braze-ons on the down tube as well FWIW. As for the loops, they look like something to run a strap through to me. Could this be some sort of cargo-oriented bike? Just my first reactions and subsequent brainstorm. Your guesses are as good as mine. Daniel M -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Stolen Hillborne: Chicago
I am so sorry to hear about your stolen bike. I lock up my Hillborne religiously in the Sheldon method (small U-lock around the rear wheel, inside the rear triangle.) When I'm going to be away from the bike for more than a minute or two, I thread a braided cable around my front wheel, through my seat to my U-lock. My question is: how did they do it? Did they cut your U-lock? I want to know if I'm being naive thinking that my bike is safe when I lock it up this way. Would anybody be so destructive as to cut through a rear wheel in order to get at a bike locked in the Sheldon method? Link to the Sheldon method: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html Rethinking the Sheldon method: http://www.cyclelicio.us/2011/sheldon-lock-video/ Modified Sheldon method: http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/ All of this is moot if they sawed through your lock. Sorry if this is off-topic. I REALLY hope you get your bike back and am hoping in the meantime that I and others can learn from how the scumbags got yours. Daniel M Berkeley, CA On Nov 21, 7:45 am, tthomashardie tthomashar...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, My Sam Hillborne was stolen yesterday. It's a long shot, but if anyone has info about this bike please contact me. It's a 48cm new green Hillborne with mustache bars and eclectic mix of parts. No questions asked about how you may know the whereabouts of this bike. I'm not looking to place blame. I'd just like to get it back. Attached is a link to a photo of the bike. Thanks. https://picasaweb.google.com/107908663805379775123/November202011#567... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Why I Aspire
I bought my Hillborne to be my weekend bike, well aware of Grant's words that it would quickly become my everyday bike. Too true. Two summers ago, I had the chance to ride from the Bay Area up to the Oregon/Washington border and back, and my Ultimate Touring Bike (Thorn with Rohloff hub) was still in the works, so I threw a large Wald basket on the front of the Hillborne and set off. A few times on the trip, the loaded basket swung around and gouged out a large scrape in the paint on the down tube - down to the bare metal. At first it bothered me quite a bit that I could let such a thing happen, but eventually I realized that this is part of what makes it MY bike, and not someone else's - every time I see that scrape I think of the joy of that trip. I wouldn't give up that month in the saddle for anything, and certainly not to undo the scratch. At a later point in time, a car trunk rack scraped off part of the seat tube label. Again, not a problem. A few times a year I give the bike a thorough cleaning, and I finally used a sanding block on that scrape to chase the rust away, dabbed all the chips I could find with clear nail polish, and wrapped the area of the scrape with a ring of reflective tape so now if and when the basket spins around it hits tape instead of paint. Bottom line: I ride my Hillborne almost every day. The Ultimate Touring Bike eventually materialized, and I now use it for loaded tours, big shopping trips, and rainy weather. Otherwise it's the Hillborne. It's still beautiful and I still get unsolicited compliments on it. And when I'm RIDING it, the last thing I notice is the chips. What I notice is the comfortable riding position, the comfort and security of the huge tires, and my overall bliss at using this wonderful invention called the bicycle. Sure, you can ride a beater every day and save a nice bike for the weekends, but why not be in love with the bike that you put the most miles on? Getting over your fear of chips scrapes allows you to get the most out of your bike. As long as you keep the rust at bay, no harm done. I call it abeausage. Daniel M Berkeley, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)
Can I also chime in in favor of V-brakes with Tektro levers? I have had my Hillborne since May built by Rivendell with Deore V-brakes, Noodle bars, and Tektro levers and interruptors. The braking is superb. Loaded touring with tent, sleeping bag, food, clothes, etc, coming down paved roads at 35mph, in the drops, and literally only needing ONE finger on each lever to moderate slowing/stopping perfectly. I had a Bianchi Volpe with short-arm cantis and needed to apply so much pressure in similar situations that my hands ached. The long-arm cantis that Rivendell sells are doubtless much better than the ones that came on my Volpe, but V-brakes are so powerful, so simple, and so easy to adjust that I can't imagine using anything else. DM On Nov 24, 3:28 am, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote: Another one who feels that the 113 BB length is good. Will chime in on the brakes - my SH presently has Tektro 720 cantilevers. The main winter project is switching it over to V brakes. The cantis are not bad. But overall the newer V brakes are so much nicer for stopping power. The only cantis, IMO, that come close are the Pauls. If price is no object, then, yeah, go that route. Otherwise, it's V for me. Oh yeah, my back story is originally riding on old mountain bikes (back when they were new) and cantilevers were king. So I've always been able to set them up. Even with that, still prefer them newfangled stoppythingies. Eric Platt St. Paul, MN On Nov 24, 12:52 am, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote: If it doesn't rub its okay.. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: silver shiters and paul thumbies
I inquired about getting Silver shifters with Paul Thumbies less than two months ago and was told it was a less-than-desirable combination, so I had my Hillborne set up with Shimanos instead. Not clear on exactly what changed, but really no complaints about the Shimanos, either. I rode them for the first few weeks in friction mode and really enjoyed the feel. After having the derailers adjusted I tried out index mode again and it turns out I really like having both options. Indexing is great when perfectly adjusted; when it gets out of whack I can just go back to friction until I or a shop take the time to adjust it again. Daniel On Jun 2, 5:18 pm, Richard rsv...@netzero.net wrote: I seem to recall a post that Silver Silvers could not be used with Paul Thumbies. Well, it looks like Rivendell has come up with a way to make them work with each other. http://www.rivbike.com/assets/payloads/307/original_brokebike.pdf Should be a great combination. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: is this confusing or am i missing something? Waterford Hillbornes?
I just took possession of a Waterford Sam last Thursday. It is a 56cm and it has only a single top tube. I wasn't expecting to go the Waterford route but when I finally decided to pull the trigger I went to RBWWHQ with debit card in hand and was told that the incoming batch would only accept sidepuls - a dealbreaker (deal-braker?) for me, as I absolutely positively prefer V-brakes to all others in all situations. I was then told that I could order a Waterford-built frame with canti studs for an extra $250, which seemed like a great deal for a domestic frame. (Didn't realize at the time that I would also have to pay for the bottom bracket - included in the Taiwan frames but not in the Waterfords.) Well, I ended up lucking out because the Taiwanese sidepull-only frames ended up delayed (due to critically unsafe label placement) but my Waterford came in right on time. It almost goes without saying that I am completely, totally in love with the bike. Today is the first day that I haven't brought it to work with me and I'm wondering how it's doing at home all alone... Link to a site that was kind enough to carry my photos: http://www.ecovelo.info/2010/05/03/gallery-daniels-rivendell-sam-hillborne/ Some unwarranted and unsubstantiated speculation: My original impression when I was in the shop was that the idea was to permanently switch to sidepull-only frames to make the Sam more of a discount AHH. On further thought it occurs to me that canti studs and the housing stop/bridge on the rear cost money to fabricate and eliminating them makes it easier to hold down the cost on what is supposed to be the budget bike. Somewhere I got the idea that the only reason for the Waterford option was that they had extra Taiwan- built forks with the canti studs and that they would special-order the Waterford bikes until the forks ran out. I'm wondering if the decal issue/delay has gotten the Riv folks fed up with the Taiwan folks and looking to build them exclusively through Waterford in the future. I am really surprised that the 56 would get a double top tube and originally thought it was a misprint. I did see a double-tubed Sam in the shop but I'm not sure what size it was. Daniel On May 5, 9:36 am, jpp paste...@notes.udayton.edu wrote: This seems like a great deal. Waterford frame (double top tube no less), Taiwan fork for $1250! They must have a really good relationship with waterford. I am surprised the price is so low, does the fork require that much work?? I am sure the double top tuber will look great. On May 3, 9:01 pm, eflayer eddie.fla...@att.net wrote: just posted to the Riv site. Waterford is building Hillbornes? Larger ones will have two top tubes? Two top tubes on a 56 cm frame? Here's what's coming: Orange, side-pull, 56cm and 60cm Sam Hillborne frames arriving from Taiwan mid June. $1000. Frames are available! All other sizes becoming available in mid to late May from Waterford. Taiwan fork, Waterford frame. Same orange. $1250. No bb or seatpost. 56cm and 60cm Waterford Sam Hillborne frames also available on request. All Waterford frames will be designed for cantilever brakes and you get 2 top tubes (at no extra charge!) on frames 56cm and larger. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
