[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-11 Thread Johan Larsson
It gets me a little worried that these misconceptions about bicycle tubing 
can spread even more... I'd like to add to your explanation Bill M., with 
something from this ironworker rebar bending perspective, the one that got 
Grant confused. If a man bending rebar can steer someone away from facts, 
common knowledge and engineering fundamentals, maybe another steelbender 
can get him onto track again?


If you put a piece of rebar in a vise, lets say you have three feet of it 
sticking straight up, and start to bend it you will notice it's quite 
flexible and springy. If you bend it a little and then let go, it springs 
back. But how much can you pull it before it doesn't spring all the way 
back? You grab the top of the rebar and pull about four inches before you 
let go. Ok, it goes back, straight up. Five inches? Six? Nothing. Eight? 
No. Darn, this rebar is pretty strong. Ok, you'll just pull until you feel 
something happening... and so you start pulling, harder and harder - 
digging your front foot down in the dirt, leaning back very slowly and 
carefully, more and more, grabbing the end of that rebar with your hands, 
and suddenly you feel that it gives a little. You stop, hold it there, and 
estimates that the end is about 30 inches out away from the vise. When you 
then let go of the rebar, it goes back, but not fully. You see that it has 
been bent some. Now you take another piece of rebar, absolutely identical 
to the first when just looking at it - same length, exactly the same 
diameter, and you put it in the vise in the same way as the first. You 
start pulling, using the same grip as when you were bending the first one. 
You lean back more and more, slowly, trying to estimate how far you are 
pulling it. 20 inches... 25... ok, coming close to the bending point now... 
closer... closer... Hmm, what? Haven't I pulled it too much now? Oh yeah, 
this must be a little further than where I took the first rebar. So you let 
go, and it springs back all the way, straight as an arrow. Now you put the 
two rebar rods next to each other in the vise. The first one is bent, but 
luckily long enough to be turned upside down and adjusted to the same 
length as before, and you make the two rods stand up equally long. And this 
is the moment where you finally get some use for your uncles old mining 
conveyor belt tension testing device that has gathered dust under the work 
bench in the garage for many years! (It's actually just like a heavy-duty 
fish scale - a handle in one end, a clamp in the other, and in between a 
box with a gauge.) You go get it, and clamp it to the end of the first 
rebar. You pull it about 25 inches, since it started to deform at about 30 
when you tried it previously, and notice that it takes 23 conveyor belt 
units of force to bend it that much. Now you attach it to the second rebar 
and bend it 25 inches too. Ok, 23 units here as well. How much does it take 
to permanently bend the first piece of rebar? You hook it up and start to 
pull. 25 inches... coming close to 30... and yes, there, it gived a little 
- it started to deform. The gauge showed 30 when that happened. (For a 
second you consider the possibility that units of conveyor belt testing 
devices are defined by bending pieces of rebar, but shake the thought 
away.) When you then pull the second rebar with 30 units of force, it bends 
just as much as the first one, but no sign of giving. So you put some 
effort into it - leaning back even further and lowering your butt, thinking 
it's a good thing that clamp is of industrial quality. And just as you 
think you maybe can't bend it at all, that you might be able to actually 
hang from the end of that rebar that now is arched almost like a fishing 
rod, then you get that feeling of the iron getting soft, that it gives, and 
you can lower yourself all the way until you're sitting on the ground, 
pulling the rebar with you. Whoa, you're thinking, _that_ was some 
strong rebar. You forgot to look at the tension tester device when sitting 
down like that, but it doesn't matter actually.

Ok - to sum this up, there clearly was two different kind of rebars 
involved. The first, weaker one, was standard quality, the second a higher 
grade - stronger. They flexed exactly the same - bent exactly the same for 
a given force. It was impossible to notice any difference in the bending, 
the springiness and flexing. That is, of course, until the first, weaker 
rebar, gave up. It broke at 30 units of force. Not broke as in fell apart, 
but it got plastically deformed. It crashed but still kept together, and 
did so at 30 units. The second rebar was of a stronger kind of steel - it 
could take 30 with no problem, 40 also. It took maybe twice the force to 
deform the stronger rebar than needed for the weaker one. Still, again - 
the two pieces of rebar flexed just the same up to 29 force units, up until 
when the weaker rebar gave. The stronger one continued to flex when loaded 
more, 

[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Philip Williamson
Am I the only one who snickered to himself when he saw the title 
belliesandbutts.pdf?
I am, aren't I?

Philip
www.biketinker.com

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Matthew J
Doug:  I think you are getting at GP's point.  A lot people hoping to be 
serious cyclists or what not convince themselves they need certain tube ratios 
or other obscure build details.  Who knows?  Maybe they will wind up with a 
bike that makes them happy.  Odds are it is not the tubing spec that brought 
this about.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Will
I'd be interested to know if the testers swapped wheels on the test frames. 

On Friday, September 7, 2012 9:32:57 PM UTC-5, ian connelly wrote:

 Everyone who likes (vintage articles about) lugged steel frames and 
 debates about tubing diameter should read this 1987 article linked via 
 Bruce Gordon (who made both the bikes in the best):

 http://www.bgcycles.com/frame-tubing-selection.html



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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Pondero
Perhaps, at one extreme we might have a perspective that only bicycle 
designers have the knowledge and experience to think about frame tubing, 
and the buyer should choose the frame simply on the basis of what the 
designer proclaims about about his design intent.  At another extreme, we 
might have the buyer educating himself to a point where he feels satisfied 
that he can specify his tubing for the builder to use and achieve the 
desired riding characteristics.  Somewhere in the middle, it seems 
reasonable that a buyer could actually understand some of the general 
impacts of changes in diameter and lighter versus heavier tubes, and do his 
own experiments.  

For example, as a relatively small guy, I have experimented over the years 
to learn that smaller diameter, lighter tubes feel better to me for my non 
camping rides. 

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Michael Hechmer
I'm a bit late to this discussion, and just went out and read GP's blog 
posting.  I thought it was very interesting and pretty much on the mark. 
 I'd like to offer a data point.

In 1983 I bought a Trek 620, which was billed as a touring bike but was 
really a sport-touring bike made with Reynolds 531C, which I have always 
assumed was 1/7/1.  Later I swapped it for a 1984  larger size, which I 
still have and ride.  In 1988 I bought a custom Marinoni stage racing bike, 
which has Columbus tubing. Probably 9/6/9 but I'm not certain.  I'd never 
heard GPs claim that people advertised Reynolds for touring and Columbus 
for criterium but I have to say my experience suggests that is imaginary. 
 Both of these bikes ride very nicely, both are responsive, both climb and 
descend solidly, both have excellent road manners.  The Trek has mostly 
been ridden on 32 mm clinchers and the Marinoni on 21 mm tubulars, so the 
rides do differ.  Whatever difference there are in the performance of these 
two bikes I doubt if many people could ever identify them as fame material. 
 In 2004 I bought a Rambouillet, which has OS tubing.  And I would say the 
ride especially with light weight wheels and tires is extraordinarily 
similar to the Marinoni - it just has a bit slower handling, more tire 
clearance and braze ons.  Again, tube thickness doesn't seem to make any 
difference at all.  I also have a 1999 SOMA Dbl Cross, which is noticeably 
heavier  stiffer tubing.  It definitely rides differently than he others. 
 I have a newer Ebisu All Purpose, with geometry quite similar to the AHH. 
 It is stiffer, with slower handling, especially at slower speed,which I 
found to be a great advantage while commuting with it.  But it does not 
respond the way the Ram, Marinoni or even the Trek does.  So, as has been 
said, at some point tubing can help make a bike more stable under load or 
more responsive in a sprint, but the slight difference between quality 
mfgs. or a mm on the butt is going to disappear very quickly in real world 
useage.

Michael

On Friday, September 7, 2012 11:28:09 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:

 As both BG  GP point out, the art of design has been fine tuned over 
 decades.  The recognizable names making steel frames today have 
 probably thousands of frames each in their experience.  They know what 
 they're doing.  Spend your time on the fun stuff like picking out the 
 ideal parts for your own bike. 

 A question just occurred to me:  So you get all this info about tubing 
 diameters, thicknesses, strengths, etc.  What do you do with it?  It's 
 not really info you can act upon.  Grant's e-mail puts it into 
 perspective.  With 37 years experience, he got fresh input from an 
 ironworker. 

 dougP 

 On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote: 
  AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool! 
  
  (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?) 
  
  -L 


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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Michael Hechmer


On Saturday, September 1, 2012 12:02:24 PM UTC-4, MikeC wrote:

 The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know 
 the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with 
 other bikes that I have.
  
 Please don't reply with, Doesn't matter, they all ride great or 
 somesuch
  
 Thanks,
  
 -Mike
  
 SW Ohio


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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread Bill M.
On Friday, September 7, 2012 5:02:56 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

 (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

 -L


Grant says:
Talk of frame tubing and stiffness always leads to this: Two tubes of 
identical diameter and wall thicknesses will be equally stiff regardless of 
the tensile strength of the tube. Heat-treating doesn’t affect stiffness, 
and neither does tensile strength. This is what is said. Metallurgists have 
locked it in. I’ve been deep into bikes for 37 years and I’ve read it a 
hundred times, written it fifteen, and said it right around eighty, but I 
don’t believe it anymore.

My Pal Jeff is an ironworker, and about ten years he was talking about how 
rebar comes in different diameters and strengths, and if you were bending a 
dozen or more lengths of rebar of a given strength and diameter, and then a 
stronger one of the same diameter sneaked into the pile without you knowing 
it, it took twice the force to bend it.

This was disturbing to hear because it violated what I had locked in and 
told to others. I’ve thought a lot about it a lot but it didn’t seem 
scientific enough to repeat, and then about a year ago I read a sciency 
source saying something like hey, maybe tubes and rods of identical 
dimensions bend differently after all, and that’s what it took to switch me 
over.

 Some metallurgists will squawk at the suggestion that strength affects 
stiffness, but when the rebar bender with (in some cases) an eighth-grade 
education and twenty years of experience on thousands of rods picks up a 
rogue lookalike and says darn, Jeff, I can’t bend this son-of-a-gun, he is 
doesn’t have a reputation to defend, has nothing to lose one way or the 
other and doesn’t give a hoot, so you should listen….and try for yourself, 
and you’ll see it’s the same.


Sorry, gotta rant a little:

The conclusion Grant reaches here is not correct. Metallurgists do know 
what they are talking about. His example only proves how easy it is to 
confuse stiffness with strength.  Using the example of *bending* a piece of 
steel is irrelevant and misleading.   We don't bend steel frames by riding 
them.   Tubes used in a bike frame are sized so that they never reach the 
yield point.  Under all normal riding loads  they spring back, they do not 
permanently deform like the rebar Pal Jeff was bending.  

The stiffness of the two pieces of rebar (the 'regular' and the 'stronger') 
are the same *up to the point at which they begin to permanently deform*. 
 For the regular rebar, it takes relatively little force to reach that 
point.  Once the metal starts to deform, the force it takes to continue 
bending it does not go up, and at some point it actually decreases.  That 
makes it feel soft.  The stronger bar isn't any stiffer, but its higher 
yield strength means it can be bent a lot further before it starts to 
deform.  It takes a lot more force to bend that bar far enough to yield.  *That 
does not mean it is stiffer, that means it is stronger!  *

The coil springs in an auto suspension are made from steel that's roughly 
as thick as rebar, but they can bend a long way and spring back.  That's 
because they are made from much higher strength steel.  Rebar would make a 
lousy spring, it would compress once and not spring back.  Again, that's 
due to strength, not stiffness.  Our steel bike frames are built more like 
springs than they are rebar.

I think Grant has undermined his point, that given reasonable metallurgy 
(CR-MO steel or an equivalent), and in tubing gauges that will make a bike 
ride well, ultimate strength is not usually a factor.  It can start to 
matter if the tubes get really thin walled, but Grant doesn't tend to build 
that way.  A plain gauge tube can be perfectly good if the goal is to 
increase the stiffness of the tube (which a thicker middle section will do) 
and the thickness at the joint is sufficient for strength.  Butting is 
needed when the tube belly is too thin to make a strong joint.  That's all 
fine and sensible.  There's no need to ignore scientific facts to get there.

Rant over.

Bill Mennuti
Stockton, CA

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-08 Thread charlie
This makes sense and lines up with my reading on the subject over the 
years.. strength vs. stiffness etc. Our frames really are 'springs' in 
that they don't go past the yield point. This is why we like steel it 
doesn't fail like aluminum does.Thin walled tubing is great for lighter 
loads as it is essentially a lighter spring. Put a big enough load/rider on 
a Rodeo and it will feel like a piece of 'wet spaghetti' (definitely), same 
applies if a flyweight rides a Bombadil he'll feel like its too stiff 
and unyielding (maybe). I'm thinking the dent resistance of heavier walled 
tubing is a smart idea especially on the top tube when it gets leaned up 
against stuff and sometimes the handlebar end twists and whacks it, putting 
a dent in it. Beyond all this what we are talking about are just bicycle 
frames and I figure Grant and his builders have more experience in the area 
than I ever will plus he has a vested interest in making a good and safe 
product. .9x.6x.9,.8x.5x.8, straight .8 or even1.0x.7x1.0 they are just 
tubes that require a good fit, proper joints and intelligent design. Thanks 
Grant, for the article you emailed. You have my confidence. 

On Saturday, September 8, 2012 7:28:48 AM UTC-7, Bill M. wrote:

 On Friday, September 7, 2012 5:02:56 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:

 AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

 (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

 -L


 Grant says:
 Talk of frame tubing and stiffness always leads to this: Two tubes of 
 identical diameter and wall thicknesses will be equally stiff regardless of 
 the tensile strength of the tube. Heat-treating doesn’t affect stiffness, 
 and neither does tensile strength. This is what is said. Metallurgists have 
 locked it in. I’ve been deep into bikes for 37 years and I’ve read it a 
 hundred times, written it fifteen, and said it right around eighty, but I 
 don’t believe it anymore.

 My Pal Jeff is an ironworker, and about ten years he was talking about how 
 rebar comes in different diameters and strengths, and if you were bending a 
 dozen or more lengths of rebar of a given strength and diameter, and then a 
 stronger one of the same diameter sneaked into the pile without you knowing 
 it, it took twice the force to bend it.

 This was disturbing to hear because it violated what I had locked in and 
 told to others. I’ve thought a lot about it a lot but it didn’t seem 
 scientific enough to repeat, and then about a year ago I read a sciency 
 source saying something like hey, maybe tubes and rods of identical 
 dimensions bend differently after all, and that’s what it took to switch me 
 over.

  Some metallurgists will squawk at the suggestion that strength affects 
 stiffness, but when the rebar bender with (in some cases) an eighth-grade 
 education and twenty years of experience on thousands of rods picks up a 
 rogue lookalike and says darn, Jeff, I can’t bend this son-of-a-gun, he is 
 doesn’t have a reputation to defend, has nothing to lose one way or the 
 other and doesn’t give a hoot, so you should listen….and try for yourself, 
 and you’ll see it’s the same.


 Sorry, gotta rant a little:

 The conclusion Grant reaches here is not correct. Metallurgists do know 
 what they are talking about. His example only proves how easy it is to 
 confuse stiffness with strength.  Using the example of *bending* a piece 
 of steel is irrelevant and misleading.   We don't bend steel frames by 
 riding them.   Tubes used in a bike frame are sized so that they never 
 reach the yield point.  Under all normal riding loads  they spring back, 
 they do not permanently deform like the rebar Pal Jeff was bending.  

 The stiffness of the two pieces of rebar (the 'regular' and the 
 'stronger') are the same *up to the point at which they begin to 
 permanently deform*.  For the regular rebar, it takes relatively little 
 force to reach that point.  Once the metal starts to deform, the force it 
 takes to continue bending it does not go up, and at some point it actually 
 decreases.  That makes it feel soft.  The stronger bar isn't any stiffer, 
 but its higher yield strength means it can be bent a lot further before it 
 starts to deform.  It takes a lot more force to bend that bar far enough to 
 yield.  *That does not mean it is stiffer, that means it is stronger!  *

 The coil springs in an auto suspension are made from steel that's roughly 
 as thick as rebar, but they can bend a long way and spring back.  That's 
 because they are made from much higher strength steel.  Rebar would make a 
 lousy spring, it would compress once and not spring back.  Again, that's 
 due to strength, not stiffness.  Our steel bike frames are built more like 
 springs than they are rebar.

 I think Grant has undermined his point, that given reasonable metallurgy 
 (CR-MO steel or an equivalent), and in tubing gauges that will make a bike 
 ride well, ultimate strength is not usually a factor.  It can start to 
 matter if the tubes get 

[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Leslie
AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

(I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

-L

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I am curious, Grant: I ride scandalously narrow tires on my two small wheel
customs and yet I find that they are surprisingly plush over smaller bumps
(6 expansion cracks are another matter). 44 1/2 cm chainstays. Is it the
chainstays that makes such otherwise nasty tires tolerable? (Nasty is
self-defensive rhetoric; I like the way the new 650C X 23 Michelin Pro Race
3s climb. Must be the Pro and the Race.)

Other news: my erstwhile '73 Motobecane Grand Record frameset, now gone to
a better owner, was noticeably lighter than the two Rivs. Yet it handled
rear loads better. Also 44-45 cm chainstays. Why is this? Not complaining
but I could carry 35 lb on the rear of the Motobecane without any real
wagging, while the '03 Curt with that much is much more of a handful

Noticed today that Jan says (or implies: I think I am paraphrasing
correctly) that even OS tubed frames can plane if the dt is thicker than
TT and ST. For what *that's* worth.

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 6:02 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:

 AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

 (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

 -L

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-- 
Believe nothing until it has been officially denied.
   -- Claude Cockburn

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Peter Morgano
Oh God, not another Planing discussion, argh!

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 8:35 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am curious, Grant: I ride scandalously narrow tires on my two small
 wheel customs and yet I find that they are surprisingly plush over smaller
 bumps (6 expansion cracks are another matter). 44 1/2 cm chainstays. Is it
 the chainstays that makes such otherwise nasty tires tolerable? (Nasty is
 self-defensive rhetoric; I like the way the new 650C X 23 Michelin Pro Race
 3s climb. Must be the Pro and the Race.)

 Other news: my erstwhile '73 Motobecane Grand Record frameset, now gone to
 a better owner, was noticeably lighter than the two Rivs. Yet it handled
 rear loads better. Also 44-45 cm chainstays. Why is this? Not complaining
 but I could carry 35 lb on the rear of the Motobecane without any real
 wagging, while the '03 Curt with that much is much more of a handful

 Noticed today that Jan says (or implies: I think I am paraphrasing
 correctly) that even OS tubed frames can plane if the dt is thicker than
 TT and ST. For what *that's* worth.

 On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 6:02 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:

 AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

 (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

 -L

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 --
 Believe nothing until it has been officially denied.
-- Claude Cockburn

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Garth

What makes all this talk of tubes and what does to what to what meaningless 
is that no two people are the same !  Not only are bodies different... but 
our perceptions and feel for what we wish to experience are vastly 
different.  So in making a frame ... the one designing it has to go with 
their own instincts... their own passion  Passion rubs off.  If people see 
someone having a good time on frame ... they'll want one too.  If they 
don't ... they won't !   If you cannot please yourself  you're pleasing 
no one :)

Isn't that what's all about ... having fun ?  :) 

Having said that ... I guess you can even have fun talking about things 
like tubes even though no one really knows what the other means !  lol   
hahahaahaha !  ... and hey ... to me that IS fun !!!   

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
This attitude seems a bit too whimsical to me. I agree with Grant that the
minutiae of tubing thicknesses, tensile strengths and butt lengths mean
little apart from the context of the whole frame and its user, but after
all, Grant doesn't build his frames out of just anything.

Patrick resolutely punctuating in the old style, too Moore

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 6:55 PM, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote:


 What makes all this talk of tubes and what does to what to what
 meaningless is that no two people are the same !  Not only are bodies
 different... but our perceptions and feel for what we wish to experience
 are vastly different.  So in making a frame ... the one designing it has to
 go with their own instincts... their own passion  Passion rubs off.  If
 people see someone having a good time on frame ... they'll want one too.
  If they don't ... they won't !   If you cannot please yourself  you're
 pleasing no one :)

 Isn't that what's all about ... having fun ?  :)

 Having said that ... I guess you can even have fun talking about things
 like tubes even though no one really knows what the other means !  lol
 hahahaahaha !  ... and hey ... to me that IS fun !!!

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   -- Claude Cockburn

-
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For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread ted
I have a heretical theory. Thin tires are plush, if you run em soft
that is.
It seems to me that at equal pressure fatter tires ride harder than
skinnier ones.
For example, when I was riding 22c tubulars at 55 or 60 psi going up
the ridge in the local open space they were quite cushy (it takes a
lot to pinch flat a tubular).
One reason to go to a wider tire is to stop getting pinch flats when
inflating to comfortable pressures. But when you do you will need to
go to even lower pressure to get the softness you had. If you go wide
enough you get away from the pinch flats even with the reduced
pressure. Seems like the pinch flat relief gain is bigger than the
hard ride penalty, but you do end up at much lower pressure (eg 20-25
psi in 50c Quasi-Motos vs 55-60 in 22c conti-gatorskin)
Given all that I think that how wide is wide enough depends on how
much weight is on the tire. Lighter riders (not loaded touring) can be
perfectly comfy on thiner tires than heavy folks without getting pinch
flats.

Of course there are other features of fatter tires, but for ride
quality I don't buy it being as simple as fat is comfy.

On Sep 7, 5:35 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 I am curious, Grant: I ride scandalously narrow tires on my two small wheel
 customs and yet I find that they are surprisingly plush over smaller bumps
 (6 expansion cracks are another matter). 44 1/2 cm chainstays. Is it the
 chainstays that makes such otherwise nasty tires tolerable? (Nasty is
 self-defensive rhetoric; I like the way the new 650C X 23 Michelin Pro Race
 3s climb. Must be the Pro and the Race.)

 Other news: my erstwhile '73 Motobecane Grand Record frameset, now gone to
 a better owner, was noticeably lighter than the two Rivs. Yet it handled
 rear loads better. Also 44-45 cm chainstays. Why is this? Not complaining
 but I could carry 35 lb on the rear of the Motobecane without any real
 wagging, while the '03 Curt with that much is much more of a handful

 Noticed today that Jan says (or implies: I think I am paraphrasing
 correctly) that even OS tubed frames can plane if the dt is thicker than
 TT and ST. For what *that's* worth.









 On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 6:02 PM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
  AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

  (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

  -L

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 ACRWhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread ian connelly
Everyone who likes (vintage articles about) lugged steel frames and debates 
about tubing diameter should read this 1987 article linked via Bruce Gordon 
(who made both the bikes in the best):

http://www.bgcycles.com/frame-tubing-selection.html

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread dougP
As both BG  GP point out, the art of design has been fine tuned over
decades.  The recognizable names making steel frames today have
probably thousands of frames each in their experience.  They know what
they're doing.  Spend your time on the fun stuff like picking out the
ideal parts for your own bike.

A question just occurred to me:  So you get all this info about tubing
diameters, thicknesses, strengths, etc.  What do you do with it?  It's
not really info you can act upon.  Grant's e-mail puts it into
perspective.  With 37 years experience, he got fresh input from an
ironworker.

dougP

On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
 AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!

 (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)

 -L

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Peter Morgano
Very true, outside of full custom status the tubing mix means litltle
outside of coffee talk with our friends.  I love my bombadil, and I loved
my 531 bikes but I find I can ride the bombadil without worrying about
flexing it to the max under my generous body while still getting a lively
ride.

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 11:28 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

 As both BG  GP point out, the art of design has been fine tuned over
 decades.  The recognizable names making steel frames today have
 probably thousands of frames each in their experience.  They know what
 they're doing.  Spend your time on the fun stuff like picking out the
 ideal parts for your own bike.

 A question just occurred to me:  So you get all this info about tubing
 diameters, thicknesses, strengths, etc.  What do you do with it?  It's
 not really info you can act upon.  Grant's e-mail puts it into
 perspective.  With 37 years experience, he got fresh input from an
 ironworker.

 dougP

 On Sep 7, 5:02 pm, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote:
  AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!
 
  (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)
 
  -L

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Michael_S
I think it helps you pick the bike that you want. Touring, the Atlantis has 
thicker tubes, fast road... the Roadeo has thinner tubes... Bomber trail 
bike... the Bombadil has the thickest.   You factor in your body weight, 
what you want to carry and pick the bike that meets those needs. Diameter 
and wall thickness still matter... it's the other stuff that is less 
important. Although heat treating is important on thin tubes... on the rest 
it is inconsequential. 

As most metallurgist's will tell you it's usually joints 
and manufacturing flaws that fail, not the parent material if it is 
designed correctly. 

~mike
Carlsbad Ca.

On Saturday, September 1, 2012 9:02:24 AM UTC-7, MikeC wrote:

 The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know 
 the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with 
 other bikes that I have.
  
 Please don't reply with, Doesn't matter, they all ride great or 
 somesuch
  
 Thanks,
  
 -Mike
  
 SW Ohio


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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-07 Thread Peter Morgano
I have luckily never had a failure on a bike but  I have to say the bike i
pushed to the max was a Nishiki Cresta that between me and my daughter and
some stuff weighed in at over 300lbs. Cant say it rode like a dream but it
did open my eyes that many bikes back in the day that were billed for
touring were really just sport touring bikes that could not handle a load
like that. My bombadil rides comfortably with alot more weight than that,
which I have to put to tubing mix so you are right that it makes a
difference but  I trust Grant when he says heavy duty for bombadil or
light tourer for the San Marcos so I dont need to know the exact stats
for each tube. Now I just wish my did didnt get me sick so I could ride,
damn first week of school, every year!

On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 12:03 AM, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.comwrote:

 I think it helps you pick the bike that you want. Touring, the Atlantis
 has thicker tubes, fast road... the Roadeo has thinner tubes... Bomber
 trail bike... the Bombadil has the thickest.   You factor in your body
 weight, what you want to carry and pick the bike that meets those needs.
 Diameter and wall thickness still matter... it's the other stuff that is
 less important. Although heat treating is important on thin tubes... on the
 rest it is inconsequential.

 As most metallurgist's will tell you it's usually joints
 and manufacturing flaws that fail, not the parent material if it is
 designed correctly.

 ~mike
 Carlsbad Ca.


 On Saturday, September 1, 2012 9:02:24 AM UTC-7, MikeC wrote:

 The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know
 the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with
 other bikes that I have.

 Please don't reply with, Doesn't matter, they all ride great or
 somesuch

 Thanks,

 -Mike

 SW Ohio

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-02 Thread Bruce Herbitter
The Waterford and Taiwanese Hillbornes are quickly distinguished by the
appearance difference in the rear dropouts. The Taiwan bikes have forks
made by a Toyo trained fabricator, Waterfords are made locally, but they
look the same. Grant was clear that the quality from either location was
the same. Writing RBW for specific info on YOUR bike is a best bet to
satisfy your curiosity. That answer won't change how your bike rides which
you should already know if you like.

In adddition to the tubing info sheet that Cyclofiend Jim linked to
earlier, RBW published detailed tube specs for the Ram (Use the Wayback
archive to view April 2007 catalog pages) . They are all Toyo built with
Tohoku-Miyata tubing. Down tube and chain stays are heat treated. Tubes are
thinner walled than Atlantis.I suspect Hillborne has thicker wall tubing
than Ram, at least in the forks and stays.

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-02 Thread charlie
 Unless you use the heat treated super high end tubing most butted main 
tubes are either .8x.5x.8 or .9x.6x.9 in thickness.  A frame like the 
Hillborne has a slightly lighter mix of tubing than the Atlantis but 
heavier than the Hilsen (from the Riv site). I think Grant once wrote that 
the Atlantis used .9x.6x.9 dimension main tubingregardless, it is a 
touring frame and suitable for loads to 275 pounds. The Hillborne 
previously had a load rating to about 260 and the Hilsen about 250 lbs. You 
don't read much about these load ratings anymore and they are pretty 
conservative anyway. Keep in mind that ride qualities are a blend of 
several elements not limited to tubing dimensions. Knowing the numbers 
won't really tell you much unless the other stats are the same.  I have a 
frame building book that states 8x5x8 tubing is suitable for riders over 
200 pounds and I am talking the modern outside dimension stuff here (the 
kind Riv bikes have) not the small diameter 1 inch etc. stuff used years 
ago. I'm not sure of the fork tubing dimensions on the Hillborne but I 
think Grant specs them to be safe enough to last for years. 

On Saturday, September 1, 2012 9:02:24 AM UTC-7, MikeC wrote:

 The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know 
 the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with 
 other bikes that I have.
  
 Please don't reply with, Doesn't matter, they all ride great or 
 somesuch
  
 Thanks,
  
 -Mike
  
 SW Ohio


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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread lungimsam
Not sur eif you mean thickness of the tube wall rubber, or what size tires 
the tube will work with. If the latter:
 

 If you use the drop down menu on this page it gives specs for each tube 
 size.
  

http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/tu.htm
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread Leslie
On Saturday, September 1, 2012 12:02:24 PM UTC-4, MikeC wrote:

 The website is vague regarding tubing thicknesses used. Does anyone know 
 the exact dimensions? Just interested in data to compare my Hillborne with 
 other bikes that I have. 


It varies.   When you have bikes that were built by one company but now a 
different one (maybe was Toyo, now built by Waterfor; or perhaps was in 
Taiwan, etc.); with changes along the way (sidepulls, now cantis; one top 
tube, now two; etc.); well, it's possible one bike has X tubing but this 
other one has Y tubing.   So, to simplify it, they don't 'publish' it;  if 
you had X tubing listed, but then Y tubing was used on a particular bike, 
and some potential buyer thought they just HAD to have X tubing and felt 
let down by Y tubing (even when Y was a better choice for them anyway), 
well... it's just simpler to go with generalities, and not specifics.   
Don't expect a Roadeo to be an Atlantis, or vice-versa.  I wouldn't say it 
doesn't matter, as rider, end use, etc., does dictate what's appropriate. 
  If it really matters to you, you could call and ask.  

With that said, though, sometimes, in some of the assorted accessory info 
that comes out from RBW, you can learn about a particular bike.

For example, http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/rr23_pg40md.jpg shows 
what the proposed tubing was for the Rambouillet, a mix of TruTemper and 
Reynolds, heat treated where appropriate, butted where wanted, etc. 
However, that changed later on, and you can read more about it here:  
http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/ram_14.jpg ; now I don't know if 'my' 
later Ram is still that exact tubing, but it is close to that and I'm sure 
it's every bit as good.   My Bombadil, by contrast, W'ford built; they 
haven't published it, but in speaking with them, told me that it is OX 
Plat, straight gauge for extra strength.

I don't have a Sam, don't know specifics about a Sam.  I've ridden a 
couple, they're great bikes... different 'generations' of them, but still 
consistent, whether or not there were changes but no,  I have no idea 
on a Sam's steel nor tubing sizes.


 

 Please don't reply with, Doesn't matter, they all ride great or 
 somesuch


 Not wanting to nitpick, but I suppose I am a little -  I may not have 
answered your question in regards to your Sam, but I provided what I knew 
on Riv tubing, that it might help others that come across this subject line 
later... but that little tag at the end, will probably keep a lot of people 
from bothering to post at all, as it almost did for me.Yeah, you might 
have gotten a couple of responses like that doesn't matter, it's great 
(as I said, they are great, but I understand intent should have an effect 
on sizing selection); but not having that on the end, might have not turned 
people off, who might have known and decided to not post...  FWIW 


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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread dougP
As one who routinely seriously over-thinks many things, I recognize
the syndrome.  Once again, we are getting carried away.  Speculating
here but my un-educated guess is that if one supplier has differenct
sources than another, GP can make any needed adjustments in spec to
the point none of us would be able to tell any difference.

Hopefully someone sent a private post to MikeC with the info he
requested.  He can knock himself out comparing his Hillborne with his
other bikes.  Now there's an exercise that'll take some thinking.

dougP

On Sep 1, 5:35 pm, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
 I agree with you from year to year Leslie.  I don't know if the Atlantis
 for example is the same today as it was originally or if it's grown with
 technology or what.  I don't know about the tubing other than the implied
 when I buy things that the two bikes are the same except phrase for water
 bottle cages or something.  I'm curious now.. :)  Who knows the answer.

 Kelly



 On Saturday, September 1, 2012 7:15:01 PM UTC-5, Leslie wrote:

  Well, yes, and no, I would think...   Yes, Grant designs the frames, pics
  the material, etc.   However, when a bike that was being made in Japan by
  Toyo was using Miyata steel, but then when RBW transfers to building at
  Waterford, and W'ford doesn't have Miyata but it does have a stack of OX
  Plat perhaps, but there's a slight difference in gauging between the two
  companies, well, in that case I would suspect that Grant would
  select/inspect/approve of a change... it would be 'different', but, Grant
  would ensure that it's still 'the same'.    I'm not saying going from
  Ram-size tubing to Atlantis-size tubing; but, just a change of source, and
  adjusting to ensure it meets his spec.  Maybe it doesn't change one iota,
  but... well, if one Bomba had X fork crown, but this Bomba over has Y fork
  crown, or the same on early Rams to late Rams (even all made by Toyo), well
  if you can change a lug style, couldn't you re-spec a tube?

  (Of course, I'm not privy to the inner workings of Riv moving locations of
  builds... but it seems to me, it only makes sense or is likely that there
  can be adjustments along the way... nothing drastic, just tweaks...)

  On Saturday, September 1, 2012 1:41:58 PM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:

  I may be wrong but I was under the impression that Rivendell specified
  the frame builds.  So toyo or Waterford would not make a difference in tube
  thickness.  I am aware there are differences, I just didn't think tube
  thickness was one of them.

  Kelly- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread lungimsam


 Oh. You meant steel tubing thicknesses. Sorry.


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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

2012-09-01 Thread lungimsam


 OK, at the risk of making myself sound dumb again, but wanting to help if 
 I can:
  

If you are talking about the outer dimensions of the tubes, I could measure 
my Bleriot tubes and you could have those to compare to the Sam you have.
 
But I think you are talking about wall thickness/butted dimensions? 

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