[Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fellows, I have been ever so graciously given a mystery radio that was made into a small portable repeater. This is the kind of thing that you hook up to a 12v Battery and hook an antenna to it and it's ready to go. Anyhow, this radio has been visually identified as a UHF Harris mobile. Other than that there is not much more I can tell you about model numbers, etc. I will say this, it looks a lot like a RF-1525 or 1550 series VHF radio, if that helps. I definitely know this one is a UHF. If anyone has a copy of the manual they would like to part with, or can make copies of, I would be willing to reimburse for any costs incurred. Scott M. Scott Zimmerman Zimmerman Electronics Ham Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Hi Scott, Better late than never :) The Harris Radio you have described sounds like a model 450a Radiotelephone. They came with a small set of duplexers on top. They are rated at 20 watts continuos duty full duplex. If you still have it send a pic' and I could probably identify the Harris model for sure. If anyone is in need I have the operator and service manual, and I could make scans when I get my scanner fixed. These units are easy to hook up and make great repeaters. Mike N8RQU Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Wanted Side mount for a DB 420
I am looking for a side mount for a DB420 antenna, our club is in the processing of moving our UHF Repeater and need a side mount for a Commercial tower I think it is a Rohn 55 but I,m not possitive. Any help in locating a mount good used or new condition, at a fair price would be appreciated. Thanks Bill WA9BA Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted Side mount for a DB 420
Bill, Contact me off line I can point you in a few directions on this one. Russ, W3CH ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) - Original Message - From: wa9ba [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 8:38 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted Side mount for a DB 420 I am looking for a side mount for a DB420 antenna, our club is in the processing of moving our UHF Repeater and need a side mount for a Commercial tower I think it is a Rohn 55 but I,m not possitive. Any help in locating a mount good used or new condition, at a fair price would be appreciated. Thanks Bill WA9BA Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris
Harris Made a number of IMTS radio telephones in both VHF and UHF. The duplex versions were sleeper portable repeaters, great quality and often sold for near nothing in the late 80's early-mid 90's. Everyone bought the UHF Versions for the really cool internal duplexer (like the Celwave flat-pack, but more square and grey in colour), threw out the radio just for the duplexer when the radio made an easy repeater. Duplex and regular radios were made in VHF and UHF, bought one at the last flea mkt for $3. Great radio, great repeater. cheers, skipp n8rqu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fellows, I have been ever so graciously given a mystery radio that was made into a small portable repeater. This is the kind of thing that you hook up to a 12v Battery and hook an antenna to it and it's ready to go. Anyhow, this radio has been visually identified as a UHF Harris mobile. Other than that there is not much more I can tell you about model numbers, etc. I will say this, it looks a lot like a RF-1525 or 1550 series VHF radio, if that helps. I definitely know this one is a UHF. If anyone has a copy of the manual they would like to part with, or can make copies of, I would be willing to reimburse for any costs incurred. Scott M. Scott Zimmerman Zimmerman Electronics Ham Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Hi Scott, Better late than never :) The Harris Radio you have described sounds like a model 450a Radiotelephone. They came with a small set of duplexers on top. They are rated at 20 watts continuos duty full duplex. If you still have it send a pic' and I could probably identify the Harris model for sure. If anyone is in need I have the operator and service manual, and I could make scans when I get my scanner fixed. These units are easy to hook up and make great repeaters. Mike N8RQU Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: intermod/interference??
Just back from IWCE Vegas... cough! cough! (the cig smoke just kills you...) Met up with some of my Engineering Friends at/from Sinclair. One interesting story was about an attempt to deal with a 17th order product, which was not resolved. Sometimes you just can't win... cheers, skipp [Now setting up on the ILS markers for Dayton!] PS: Saw and said hello to Richard from Brocomm, he's got lots of Quantars and MSR's left. Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I disagree, because he says it happens only when things are linked. I would think it has something to do with the link transmitter intermoding the repeater receiver, or the repeater transmitter intermoding the link receiver. He doesn't elaborate enough on when it happens, like after the linked repeater drops, or just when, but I don't believe it's a problem with the repeaters. Dennis, Your statement of When the link is up and someone uses the 146.700/R it creates terrible interference and you can actually understand what is being said on the 70/R. The 70/R will not be heard or cause a problem until the 97/R is accessed while linked to the 147.24/R. is too vague and seems incorrect. If the two repeaters are linked, you should be able to understand what is being said on either machine, so I'm wondering what you are actually experiencing? At any rate, a notch cavity on the remote base tuned to the repeater transmit frequency, placed in the remote base line will help or eliminate intermod of the remote base. A notch cavity tuned for the remote base transmitter frequency, placed in the repeater receiver line will help or eliminate intermod of the repeater receiver. I don't have the time to run the numbers, so maybe you could run them again Eric? Kevin Custer Eric Lemmon wrote: Dennis, You have classic third-order intermodulation interference. 146.970 times 2 = 293.940 MHz. Subtract the 146.700 signal and you have 293.940 - 146.700 = 147.240 MHz, the output of your linked repeater. Other mixing products are possible. I suspect that neither the 146.970 repeater nor the 146.700 repeater has a circulator on the output. Bandpass cavities on the output are another option. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY ki5fw wrote: Hey Guys; Why does my 146.970/Rptr when linked to a 147.240/Rptr get interference from a 146.700/Rptr. The 146.700/R is about 5-7 miles from my 146.970/R. When the link is up and someone uses the 146.700/R it creates terrible interference and you can actually understand what is being said on the 70/R. The 70/R will not be heard or cause a problem until the 97/R is accessed while linked to the 147.24/R. There is no problems when the link is down. Will a notch filter on the remote base T/cvr to notch out 146.700 be the cure? The remote base is frequency agile and wonder if the notch filter is the way to go. Guess it depends on how wide and deep the notch is??? I tried the intermod Calculator and I think I see what the problem is, but not sure if I'm looking at it correctly. TNX in Advance, Dennis ki5fw Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
can you do the battery backup mod that is found the repeater builder .com site for the astron rs35 on the rs 50 or should one order the kit from astron and mount in externally to the rs50 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer Issue again! I'm confused or Lost
Well I just got off the phone with TX-RX and learned a few things. The setof cavities that I have is rated for four cans, which has an insertion loss of 1.5 DB, so with the third can, that takes it to 2.2 DB insertion loss, so with my 200 watts in, it would be about 120 out and that is where I am at. So I am not far from being where I should be. Thanks for all the input. Mathew Well Mostly correct there, I've got the power back up, still not full bore, but did find out why the power was coming up slowly, it was the exciter, one of the coils was loose, fixed it and power back up, but still missing some. 200 in for 120 out, so not quite there yet. Time for a Z-matcher or isolator. Bob NO6B Might see about the cables, I think they were originally cut for 147 Mhz, might need to be changed to get a better match. A 2 MHz move will not make a difference w.r.t. duplexer cavity intercabling. If you don't have a Z-matcher or isolator, try changing the length of the cable between the amp duplexer. Also remember that when you insert the wattmeter in line with that cable, you're changing the length of that cable hence the impedance the amp sees. IMO these kinds of loss measurements can only be properly done with an isolator on the amp output. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
At 03:59 PM 4/8/2005 -, you wrote: Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance ---Wow, an oldie but a goodie! The U901 was one of the early microwave bipolar transistors (they were black bodied and used axial leads - 4 of 'em). I don't even know if they're available anymore but I did do a quick google search and didn't come up with anything. You might give RF Parts a call. They may be of some help. Good luck Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
They didn't have the RS 50R built in option? David wrote: can you do the battery backup mod that is found the repeater builder .com site for the astron rs35 on the rs 50 or should one order the kit from astron and mount in externally to the rs50 Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load - Original Message - From: Ronny Julian [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:05 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 They didn't have the RS 50R built in option? David wrote: can you do the battery backup mod that is found the repeater builder .com site for the astron rs35 on the rs 50 or should one order the kit from astron and mount in externally to the rs50 Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
Maybe it is MRF-901? I have a couple of these and have seen them used in pre-amps and various other pieces of equipment. It is a little round thing, maybe 3/16 in dia? with the 4 legs in an X pattern, I believe 2 are emitter. On Apr 8, 2005 10:04 AM, Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 03:59 PM 4/8/2005 -, you wrote: Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance ---Wow, an oldie but a goodie! The U901 was one of the early microwave bipolar transistors (they were black bodied and used axial leads - 4 of 'em). I don't even know if they're available anymore but I did do a quick google search and didn't come up with anything. You might give RF Parts a call. They may be of some help. Good luck Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
Yes, that will work just fine. Make sure you put in fuses, and set the current limit down somewhat if you are feeding a big battery bank. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris
Boy, That was a LONG time ago. I actually got the information from another kind soul. I hate to admit it, but it has been sitting under my bench collecting dust ever since. Isn't that just how it goes, the repeater builder is the last to get his own repeater projects going Thanks anyhow. Scott Scott Zimmerman Amateur Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Rd Boswell, PA 15531 - Original Message - From: n8rqu [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:40 AM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fellows, I have been ever so graciously given a mystery radio that was made into a small portable repeater. This is the kind of thing that you hook up to a 12v Battery and hook an antenna to it and it's ready to go. Anyhow, this radio has been visually identified as a UHF Harris mobile. Other than that there is not much more I can tell you about model numbers, etc. I will say this, it looks a lot like a RF-1525 or 1550 series VHF radio, if that helps. I definitely know this one is a UHF. If anyone has a copy of the manual they would like to part with, or can make copies of, I would be willing to reimburse for any costs incurred. Scott M. Scott Zimmerman Zimmerman Electronics Ham Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Hi Scott, Better late than never :) The Harris Radio you have described sounds like a model 450a Radiotelephone. They came with a small set of duplexers on top. They are rated at 20 watts continuos duty full duplex. If you still have it send a pic' and I could probably identify the Harris model for sure. If anyone is in need I have the operator and service manual, and I could make scans when I get my scanner fixed. These units are easy to hook up and make great repeaters. Mike N8RQU Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 4/7/2005 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
what wattage 1k pot to parallel r4 - Original Message - From: Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 Yes, that will work just fine. Make sure you put in fuses, and set the current limit down somewhat if you are feeding a big battery bank. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
what do you consider large??? I have 3 25ah gel cells - Original Message - From: Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 Yes, that will work just fine. Make sure you put in fuses, and set the current limit down somewhat if you are feeding a big battery bank. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: intermod/interference??
Kevin: As long as the 97/R is linked to 24/R and there is no activity on the 70/R every thing is fine. Once someone transmits thru the 70/R is when the problem occurs. The 97/R has to be recv'n a signal from the 24/R and of course be transmitting for the problem to happen. If there is traffic on the 70/R without any traffic on the 97/R or rec'vn a signal from the 24/R thru the remote base there is no problem. The 97/has to be linked to the 24/R and recv'n a signal from it for the intermod to occur. You can disconnect from the 24/R and all goes away. Seems to me it is coming in thru the remote base recv'r. Maybe some mix of the 146.970 TX'r and 146.700 TX'r with the remote listening on 147.24 is the problem. I've looked at the intermod calculator and there looks like there could be a problem. I'm just not very familiar at how this all happens. Hope this claifies some things, Agn tnx to all, Dennis ki5fw --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I disagree, because he says it happens only when things are linked. I would think it has something to do with the link transmitter intermoding the repeater receiver, or the repeater transmitter intermoding the link receiver. He doesn't elaborate enough on when it happens, like after the linked repeater drops, or just when, but I don't believe it's a problem with the repeaters. Dennis, Your statement of When the link is up and someone uses the 146.700/R it creates terrible interference and you can actually understand what is being said on the 70/R. The 70/R will not be heard or cause a problem until the 97/R is accessed while linked to the 147.24/R. is too vague and seems incorrect. If the two repeaters are linked, you should be able to understand what is being said on either machine, so I'm wondering what you are actually experiencing? At any rate, a notch cavity on the remote base tuned to the repeater transmit frequency, placed in the remote base line will help or eliminate intermod of the remote base. A notch cavity tuned for the remote base transmitter frequency, placed in the repeater receiver line will help or eliminate intermod of the repeater receiver. I don't have the time to run the numbers, so maybe you could run them again Eric? Kevin Custer Eric Lemmon wrote: Dennis, You have classic third-order intermodulation interference. 146.970 times 2 = 293.940 MHz. Subtract the 146.700 signal and you have 293.940 - 146.700 = 147.240 MHz, the output of your linked repeater. Other mixing products are possible. I suspect that neither the 146.970 repeater nor the 146.700 repeater has a circulator on the output. Bandpass cavities on the output are another option. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY ki5fw wrote: Hey Guys; Why does my 146.970/Rptr when linked to a 147.240/Rptr get interference from a 146.700/Rptr. The 146.700/R is about 5-7 miles from my 146.970/R. When the link is up and someone uses the 146.700/R it creates terrible interference and you can actually understand what is being said on the 70/R. The 70/R will not be heard or cause a problem until the 97/R is accessed while linked to the 147.24/R. There is no problems when the link is down. Will a notch filter on the remote base T/cvr to notch out 146.700 be the cure? The remote base is frequency agile and wonder if the notch filter is the way to go. Guess it depends on how wide and deep the notch is??? I tried the intermod Calculator and I think I see what the problem is, but not sure if I'm looking at it correctly. TNX in Advance, Dennis ki5fw Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Opinions on a GMRS repeater
Hey guys, OK, this should be easy for you. I'm about to put up a GMRS repeater. It'll be nothing fancy, it'll just go on the roof of a building. Any ideas of an antenna? I think a stationmaster is probably overkill. Thoughts? Thanks, Jed Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
I have used the switch shown here on an earlier Mastr II mobile conversion I did. This switch closes at 110F and opens at 90F. 73, Tony W4ZT kc4wgh wrote: Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
FAN SWITCH...I use Airpax Series 6700. http://www.airpaxtsp.com/tspsite/6700.html. They are available in a number of temperature settings. Size TO220 package. I drive a 12 volt relay with mine, then I can control anything with relay contacts. Not bad price $6.85 each.Part No 67F040 (40 deg C). You might want a little higher trip point.Purchased from Sager Electronics, Middleboro, Ma 508 947-. Am presently installing one on the inside of the heatsink in a Moto Micor Mobile repeater, near the power output transistors. Also try Jim Breuer at Airpax Corp in Frederick, Md phone 240-379-1346 or www.airpax.net. I also install them in Astron supplies. Mount it inside the Astron between the two power transistors on heatsink. I use the screw thatholds the standoff for the equalizing resistors. One on each side. So if things get too hot it gives switch closure, relay will turn on fans. Gary K2UQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
My apoligies, I meant to include the URL: http://repeater.w4zt.com/uhf/gemastr2 I have used the switch shown here on an earlier Mastr II mobile conversion I did. This switch closes at 110F and opens at 90F. 73, Tony W4ZT kc4wgh wrote: Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50
Are you sure it was LDF1 and not FSJ1? LDF1 is VERY rare (I've never seen it), but FSJ1 is pretty common. LDFx is regular hardline, FSJx is Superflex. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL mch wrote: Sounds like it must have been larger than 1/4. Joe M. DCFluX wrote: I've am using the LDF1-50 on my 64 machine. I dont know what the deal is but the reducers I was going to run both for both RG-59 and RG-8X wouldn't fit this stuff. So I had to just solder the connector straight to the cable The center conductor of the cable just fits inside the PL-259's. I don't know if RF parts sent me 3/8 by mistake or what. But it works about the same as the RG-213 that it replaced. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
Ken Arck wrote: At 03:59 PM 4/8/2005 -, you wrote: Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance ---Wow, an oldie but a goodie! The U901 was one of the early microwave bipolar transistors (they were black bodied and used axial leads - 4 of 'em). I don't even know if they're available anymore but I did do a quick google search and didn't come up with anything. You might give RF Parts a call. They may be of some help. Good luck Ken How close would that be to an MRF901? (Use to be REAL common...) -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50
Yup, Real LDF series with soft foam and everything. On Apr 8, 2005 12:05 PM, Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are you sure it was LDF1 and not FSJ1? LDF1 is VERY rare (I've never seen it), but FSJ1 is pretty common. LDFx is regular hardline, FSJx is Superflex. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL mch wrote: Sounds like it must have been larger than 1/4. Joe M. DCFluX wrote: I've am using the LDF1-50 on my 64 machine. I dont know what the deal is but the reducers I was going to run both for both RG-59 and RG-8X wouldn't fit this stuff. So I had to just solder the connector straight to the cable The center conductor of the cable just fits inside the PL-259's. I don't know if RF parts sent me 3/8 by mistake or what. But it works about the same as the RG-213 that it replaced. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
500 AH would be large. --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: what do you consider large??? I have 3 25ah gel cells - Original Message - From: Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 Yes, that will work just fine. Make sure you put in fuses, and set the current limit down somewhat if you are feeding a big battery bank. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TK- 760 VHf
Greetings, Can a kenwood 760 be programed down to 146 MHz? Has anyone built a 2 meter repeater using these? And if so, does anyone have a hookup? I have 2 avail. and would use to build a backup repeater. any help appreciated thanks Mike JohnsonKD4HLH Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
Whatever you got. .25 watt or bigger is OK. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: what wattage 1k pot to parallel r4 - Original Message - From: Joe Montierth [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 Yes, that will work just fine. Make sure you put in fuses, and set the current limit down somewhat if you are feeding a big battery bank. Joe --- David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: on the repeater builder website there is a mod for the astron rs35 where you go into it and cut a trace then add a resistor then adjust the power supply's output voltage to what the float charge rate of the battery I have done this to an rs35 and have not had any problems I am just wondering if it is okay to do it to the rs50 - Original Message - From: Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50 At 12:08 PM 4/8/2005, David wrote: no you can buy it build it and hook up external to the rs50 it can be built into the rm50 but I don't have the rm 50 I have the rs50 and am wondering if I should spend the $45 for the battery backup kit or if the mod for the rs35 on the repeater builder website will be acceptable since I do plan on fusing both positive and negative lines from the rs50 to the batteries and again from the batteries to the load What does this mod do exactly? What we've done, and I've used this at home for years, is to set the power supply to 14.4V, and connect the backup batteries directly in parallel. Mechanically, the power supply leads (both of them!) run direct to the battery, and in through a 30A fuse, then back out from the battery through another 30A, to a distribution panel with fuses sized for each device. Everything's powerpoled of course. I've run batteries this way for 8 years with no problems, the trick is to adjust the float voltage for your particular battery. SLA isn't the same as Gell, and so on. They are pretty close, and slightly under is better than slightly over. Reduced charge state as opposed to electrolyzing the water and loosing it. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50
DCFluX wrote: Yup, Real LDF series with soft foam and everything. Well, AFAIK, the main difference between the two is the corrugation in the outer jacket. Superflex has a finer corrugation to allow it to bend easier, and with a tighter radius. But of course, if it said LDF, then it's LDF...heh. On Apr 8, 2005 12:05 PM, Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are you sure it was LDF1 and not FSJ1? LDF1 is VERY rare (I've never seen it), but FSJ1 is pretty common. LDFx is regular hardline, FSJx is Superflex. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50
LDF is low-loss.. FSJ is standard.. and Super-Flex is as you describe below. mike -Original Message- From: Jim B. [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 4:56 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50 DCFluX wrote: Yup, Real LDF series with soft foam and everything. Well, AFAIK, the main difference between the two is the corrugation in the outer jacket. Superflex has a finer corrugation to allow it to bend easier, and with a tighter radius. But of course, if it said LDF, then it's LDF...heh. On Apr 8, 2005 12:05 PM, Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Are you sure it was LDF1 and not FSJ1? LDF1 is VERY rare (I've never seen it), but FSJ1 is pretty common. LDFx is regular hardline, FSJx is Superflex. -- Jim Barbour WD8CHL Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: request for info; DV-200, Palomar Telecom
Thanks, Mike. Interesting thing is that it's joined with a Midian UED1A encoder/decoder; my guess is it was set up to decode a DTMF string, then respond back with it's pre-recorded message. Maybe I could make it live again? Chuk G. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 11:42 AM 4/7/05, you wrote: Graced with a Palomar Telecom DV-200 board; apparently it's a voice ... Palomar Telecom made a Z80 based repeater controller, and as you said they are out of business. The system had a number of design shortcomings, but is used in a number of linked systems as a hub controller. The DV200 is the speech synthesizer card and the repeater controller firmware never took full advantage of it. Most of the Palomars out there get by with the MCW telemetry. The board is useless except to someone who has a Palomar, and the controller needs one of the last revisions of the firmware to use it. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] So Cal Site Space ?
Hi All, Would anyone have a contact to rent site/cabinet space in a site that allows ham radio systems? I would be looking for a cabinet space on Heaps, Box Springs, Sunset Ridge, Sierra Pk., or possibly Santiago. Thanks, Steve Barden/WA6OXN Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Fwd: [Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TK- 760 VHf
Michael C. JohnsonCommunications Unlimited, Inc.101 W. Laurens St. Laurens, SC 29360Voice: 864 984 4633Fax: 864 984 6213E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---BeginMessage--- Greetings, Can a kenwood 760 be programed down to 146 MHz? Has anyone built a 2 meter repeater using these? And if so, does anyone have a hookup? I have 2 avail. and would use to build a backup repeater. any help appreciated thanks Mike JohnsonKD4HLH ---End Message---
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
At 09:43 AM 4/8/05, you wrote: can you do the battery backup mod that is found the repeater builder .com site for the astron rs35 on the rs 50 or should one order the kit from astron and mount in externally to the rs50 Your statement above is not too clear. I read it as you want a battery backup mod for the RS50. Why not just do the actual RS50 BB mod? http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/astron-rm50a-bbsmall.jpg Remember to set the Astron voltage to the battery float voltage, and the float voltage for a sealed lead acid (i.e. gell cell) is different than that of a wet lead acid and is different than a nickel-cadmium bank. The Astron actually has to be set to the float voltage PLUS the voltage drop of the series diode. In my case I disconnected the internal voltage set potentiometer and wired in a replacement that I mounted on to the front panel of the Astron - and I used a screwdriver-adjust pot with a lock nut. See http://www.net-doc.net/images/locking-pot-standard.jpg The lower nut mounts the pot to the panel, the upper nut is the lock. Another version that work fine is at http://www.net-doc.net/images/locking-pot-mini.jpg As to the actual Astron BB mod, it's essentially a paid of high current diodes wired cathode to cathode. If you don't mind a non-pretty implementation, the diode array from a high-current alternator will work just fine. The normal automotive alternator diode array has six diodes in it (or sometimes 12 in 6 groups of 2 in parallel), and the arrays are usually tossed if one diode is dead. The last time I swapped out the 60 amp alternator in my old 1971 Dodge Dart DEA undercover chase car I paid $5 at the alternator shop for a dead array out of a 120 amp alternator. I cut the plate with a sawzall and scavenged a piece with two good diodes that had a common cathode and enough space around the diodes for mounting holes. Using that plate mounted on standoffs I ended up with the same circuit as the Astron BB option at a cost of $5 plus the standoffs... and in the proof-of-concept prototype they were pieces of leftover 2x2 wood. The final version used polystyrene rod. All of this was done before Astron came out with their BB option. Nowadays it may be easier to just buy the kit - but sometimes it's more fun to roll your own. The resistor that shunts one of the diodes in the Astron schematic creates the charging current for the battery. In that design the charging current is not limited - it's limited only by the voltage difference between the Astron output and the battery and a 1.6 ohm 15w resistor. Under conditions of a dead battery that initial charging current can be higher than the battery can take - 1.6 ohms at 14v is between 8 to 9 amps. The rule of thumb on max charging current is 1/10 of the amp-hour capacity. Therefore a 20ah battery has max charging current of 2 amps. And the BB charge current into a dead battery is 8 amps? Another flaw in the Astron design is that the 8 amps flowing through the charging resistors is over 100w oops, POOF ! There goes the three 5w resistor(s). Now in real life, the battery voltage is not going to be zero, so the difference voltage is not going to be the full Astron output of 14 volts, but still... there are better charging circuits out there than a 14v 50a power supply and a 1.6 ohm series resistor. In my case I left out that charging resistor and used an external charger. Automatic current limiting battery chargers are common at auto parts stores - just make sure that you get one with a good sized transformer rated for continuous duty. Add a decent series choke and a filter cap and you can tame the hum that in the automotive world is harmless. I used a 10a charger and the secondary of a 12amp 6 volt filament transformer as a choke. At one time I needed to loan out the battery charger so for a while the charger was a 2 amp solar panel and a solar charge controller. Backup batteries and solar panels are an industry all their own, and there are solar hobbyists just like there are ham radio hobbyists - it's just that the solar hobbyists take advantage of the fact that you can legally run the power meter backwards! Some installations have no batteries and run the meter backwards during the day and forwards at night, and the owner pays the power company only for the difference. And in the summer, where they make more than they use, the company has to pay them! (look up net metering in Google). Home Power magazine, run by a ham, is the major magazine of that community. See http://www.homepower.com Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: request for info; DV-200, Palomar Telecom
At 02:44 PM 4/8/05, you wrote: Thanks, Mike. Interesting thing is that it's joined with a Midian UED1A encoder/decoder; my guess is it was set up to decode a DTMF string, then respond back with it's pre-recorded message. The card was basically fed with a binary number and a strobe pulse and answered back with audio and a busy lead. The binary number told the card what word to say, and the strobe pulse stared the playback. The busy lead was active while the card was talking - think of it as PTT. Maybe I could make it live again? Dunno - I don't have docs on it. The voice encoding is unique to that product, and a PC program took wav files and encoded them. Palomar sold a software package that let folks encode their own files, unfortunately I don't know anyone who has it. You might find out that your card has a made-for-the- application set of sound files I saw one that was set up for an airport somewhere: The yellow painted curb area is for loading and unloading of passengers and baggage only. Do not leave your vehicle, it will be towed immediately. Not of much use in the repeater controller world Does the card have EEPROM or PROM chips? It will always have at lease one PROM chip for the on-board firmware, but the rest could be either. That will tell you if it is set up as a talker-only or as a record/playback card. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
For the fan application, you can purchase from digikey http://www.digikey.com/ over the web or landline a CANTHERM bimetal temp normally open switch which will close when the temp reaches the desired setpoint. Has spade lugs for connection. Remember to apply a dab of heat sink grease when mounting. They are in the $8-10 range. Note they are rated in degrees C, so you'll have to convert to degrees F to pick the right one!!! Heres a link to a java script: http://www.nomoreodor.com/celsius_to_fahrenheit_conversion.htm The part number will be 317-109X-ND, where X selects the temperature. The one I picked was 104 degreeF range if I remember right. Take into account the ambient temp range of the installation you are in when selecting the setpoint temp. A setpoint too low would keep the fan on all the time in an uncooled repeater shack in Phoenix AZ. 73's Ralph W4XE -Original Message- From: kc4wgh [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 11:07 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
kc4wgh wrote: Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance That would be a MRF901. RF Parts used to carry them. Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance That would be a MRF901. RF Parts used to carry them. Kevin Custer Here is a bit more information after googling around: http://www.simrex.com/site/products/preselector/preselector_diagram.pdf http://www.aria-glb.com/products/reset_frames.htm?/products/preselector.htm (ignore the extra '1' in the "CENTER" column) These two are right: http://www.aria-glb.com/pdf/Preselector.pdf http://www.simrex.com/site/products/preselector/Preselector.pdf Remember, the GaAs FET option was only available on models over 200 MHz. I'm sure the part is a Motorola MRF901, but I'll look some more to be absolutely certain. Unfortunately, not much information accompanied a new Preselector/Preamp, and I can't even find what did come with the several I purchased over the years. Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Opinions on a GMRS repeater
Jed, Be careful how you use the term stationmaster, since there are many different models and variations. An RFS/Celwave Stationmaster II antenna, model PD201-7, is a good choice. It has 5.0 dBd omni gain, and costs about $370 from TESSCO. Another good choice is a Decibel Products DB408B with 6.6 dBd omni gain, about $360 from TESSCO. If your repeater is not in the center of your desired coverage area, you may consider a Yagi or corner reflector for an offset pattern. If you use 1/2 Heliax transmission line between your duplexer and the antenna, or 7/8 Heliax if the run is more than 50 feet, you will probably have good performance and range. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY (and GMRS KAF4211) Jed Barton wrote: Hey guys, OK, this should be easy for you. I'm about to put up a GMRS repeater. It'll be nothing fancy, it'll just go on the roof of a building. Any ideas of an antenna? I think a stationmaster is probably overkill. Thoughts? Thanks, Jed Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
Remember to set the Astron voltage to the battery float voltage, and the float voltage for a sealed lead acid (i.e. gell cell) is different than that of a wet lead acid and is different than a nickel-cadmium bank. The Astron actually has to be set to the float voltage PLUS the voltage drop of the series diode. Just for chagrins, why use a diode? I simply float the battery across the bus. No diodes, no relays, no problems :) At home, I set things up a bit differently, I use a much smaller power supply since it has a lot more time to refill the battery. Essentially any supply that has non foldback current limiting, works nicely. The right supply has a current limit, and it will output that current into a battery or a dead short, 24/7. The foldback units are kind of useless for battery floating, when you hit a limit, they drop their output current to some much lower level, until the load goes away entirely. Switchers work nicely too, but some have no real current limiting, which is a bad thing. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
David, You can avoid the cost and complexity of a battery backup mod by simply installing a heavy-duty Shottky diode on the output of your power supply, and raising the voltage setting slightly (about 0.3 VDC) to account for the forward voltage drop in the diode. Nothing could be simpler! 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY David wrote: can you do the battery backup mod that is found the repeater builder .com site for the astron rs35 on the rs 50 or should one order the kit from astron and mount in externally to the rs50 Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
Try Digi-Key at digikey.com Rod Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
I have several installations in service using the same thermal switch. It is #317-1094-ND from Digi-Key, for $9 each. This switch closes at 122 degrees F, and opens around 100 degrees F. I drilled and tapped two holes in a flat area of one of the radio's heatsink fins, and mounted the switch with thermal contact grease to ensure a good heat transfer. Be careful in your selection of a fan. After having one (rather inexpensive) DC fan that caused the RF to be modulated with a hum, I now buy only those fans that are certified to be free of conducted EMI. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY kc4wgh wrote: Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part
Kevin, maybe you could contact Ed Jackson, WB2OIF...he worked for Gil Boelke for several years and may know the answer to this one... John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Kevin Custer To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 8:42 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GLB Part Hi all, I am looking for a transistor that's in a GLB Preselector- Preamp. This is for the two (2) meter band. Here's the information (best that I can see) M (batwing) u 901 Thanks in advance That would be a MRF901. RF Parts used to carry them. Kevin CusterHere is a bit more information after googling around:http://www.simrex.com/site/products/preselector/preselector_diagram.pdfhttp://www.aria-glb.com/products/reset_frames.htm?/products/preselector.htm(ignore the extra '1' in the "CENTER" column)These two are right:http://www.aria-glb.com/pdf/Preselector.pdf http://www.simrex.com/site/products/preselector/Preselector.pdfRemember, the GaAs FET option was only available on models over 200 MHz.I'm sure the part is a Motorola MRF901, but I'll look some more to be absolutely certain.Unfortunately, not much information accompanied a new Preselector/Preamp, and I can't even find what did come with the several I purchased over the years.Kevin Custer Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris
This is very interesting. I am also in posession of a similar harris radio. It is the Alpha 2000 UHF Mobile Telephone. I did search a little on the web but I found very little information on it. When I acquired this rig someone had already modified it to the Amateur band, however I would like to move frequencies. Does anyone here have some info on how to do so? I would be interested in joining a group devoted to harris, how do I do that? FWIW it looks to be a very well built unit. It is similar in size to a Mastr II however the guts are much smaller due to the fact there is a duplexer built in. The guts might possibly be compared to a GE Delta. Thanks for the help. Dan Simmons On Apr 8, 2005 2:28 PM, Rick Charlotte [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a harris group that I run .. and one of the members works for harris !!! he is a great chap ! and he programms the chips that control th 'channel' Rick On 8 Apr 2005 at 16:24, skipp025 wrote: Harris Made a number of IMTS radio telephones in both VHF and UHF. The duplex versions were sleeper portable repeaters, great quality and often sold for near nothing in the late 80's early-mid 90's. Everyone bought the UHF Versions for the really cool internal duplexer (like the Celwave flat-pack, but more square and grey in colour), threw out the radio just for the duplexer when the radio made an easy repeater. Duplex and regular radios were made in VHF and UHF, bought one at the last flea mkt for $3. Great radio, great repeater. cheers, skipp n8rqu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fellows, I have been ever so graciously given a mystery radio that was made into a small portable repeater. This is the kind of thing that you hook up to a 12v Battery and hook an antenna to it and it's ready to go. Anyhow, this radio has been visually identified as a UHF Harris mobile. Other than that there is not much more I can tell you about model numbers, etc. I will say this, it looks a lot like a RF-1525 or 1550 series VHF radio, if that helps. I definitely know this one is a UHF. If anyone has a copy of the manual they would like to part with, or can make copies of, I would be willing to reimburse for any costs incurred. Scott M. Scott Zimmerman Zimmerman Electronics Ham Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Hi Scott, Better late than never :) The Harris Radio you have described sounds like a model 450a Radiotelephone. They came with a small set of duplexers on top. They are rated at 20 watts continuos duty full duplex. If you still have it send a pic' and I could probably identify the Harris model for sure. If anyone is in need I have the operator and service manual, and I could make scans when I get my scanner fixed. These units are easy to hook up and make great repeaters. Mike N8RQU Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 4/7/2005 Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120 147.300 + VA3 OME 224.420 - VA3 OME Part of The Omeme Amateur Radio Club Peterborough Ont. Canada Yahoo! Groups Links -- Dan Simmons KC2BEZ President North Country Amateur Radio Club W2LCA Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Spectrum SCR 500
I have a service manual and schematics for the scr500 uhf version. Which version do you have? I also have the schematics for the vhf scr100 reciever board. I need to get my scanner working, I'll see if I can get it going this weekend. If I get it working I'll send you what you need and upload them to the [EMAIL PROTECTED] website. Mike N8RQU --- jcofy [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I need help finding a schematic or service manual for a Spectrum SCR 500 receiver... Please! Yahoo! Groups Links [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Help with Harris
Hi Dan, Join the yahoo group Harris-radio for more info on these radios/repeaters. Michael N8RQU --- Dan KC2BEZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is very interesting. I am also in posession of a similar harris radio. It is the Alpha 2000 UHF Mobile Telephone. I did search a little on the web but I found very little information on it. When I acquired this rig someone had already modified it to the Amateur band, however I would like to move frequencies. Does anyone here have some info on how to do so? I would be interested in joining a group devoted to harris, how do I do that? FWIW it looks to be a very well built unit. It is similar in size to a Mastr II however the guts are much smaller due to the fact there is a duplexer built in. The guts might possibly be compared to a GE Delta. Thanks for the help. Dan Simmons On Apr 8, 2005 2:28 PM, Rick Charlotte [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a harris group that I run .. and one of the members works for harris !!! he is a great chap ! and he programms the chips that control th 'channel' Rick On 8 Apr 2005 at 16:24, skipp025 wrote: Harris Made a number of IMTS radio telephones in both VHF and UHF. The duplex versions were sleeper portable repeaters, great quality and often sold for near nothing in the late 80's early-mid 90's. Everyone bought the UHF Versions for the really cool internal duplexer (like the Celwave flat-pack, but more square and grey in colour), threw out the radio just for the duplexer when the radio made an easy repeater. Duplex and regular radios were made in VHF and UHF, bought one at the last flea mkt for $3. Great radio, great repeater. cheers, skipp n8rqu [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Scott Zimmerman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Fellows, I have been ever so graciously given a mystery radio that was made into a small portable repeater. This is the kind of thing that you hook up to a 12v Battery and hook an antenna to it and it's ready to go. Anyhow, this radio has been visually identified as a UHF Harris mobile. Other than that there is not much more I can tell you about model numbers, etc. I will say this, it looks a lot like a RF-1525 or 1550 series VHF radio, if that helps. I definitely know this one is a UHF. If anyone has a copy of the manual they would like to part with, or can make copies of, I would be willing to reimburse for any costs incurred. Scott M. Scott Zimmerman Zimmerman Electronics Ham Radio Call N3XCC 612 Barnett Road Boswell, PA 15531 Hi Scott, Better late than never :) The Harris Radio you have described sounds like a model 450a Radiotelephone. They came with a small set of duplexers on top. They are rated at 20 watts continuos duty full duplex. If you still have it send a pic' and I could probably identify the Harris model for sure. If anyone is in need I have the operator and service manual, and I could make scans when I get my scanner fixed. These units are easy to hook up and make great repeaters. Mike N8RQU Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.5 - Release Date: 4/7/2005 Rick Szajkowski VA3 RZS Charlotte Darby VA3 CMR Node Owners of IRLP Node 2120 147.300 + VA3 OME 224.420 - VA3 OME Part of The Omeme Amateur Radio Club Peterborough Ont. Canada Yahoo! Groups Links -- Dan Simmons KC2BEZ President North Country Amateur Radio Club W2LCA Yahoo! Groups Links [EMAIL PROTECTED] === message truncated === __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
I prefer the Motorola Micor TPN1105A/TPN1106A Power Supply / Battery Charger for the repeater site installation. Everything needed is built in. Neil - WA6KLA Dave VanHorn wrote: Remember to set the Astron voltage to the battery float voltage, and the float voltage for a sealed lead acid (i.e. gell cell) is different than that of a wet lead acid and is different than a nickel-cadmium bank. The Astron actually has to be set to the float voltage PLUS the voltage drop of the series diode. Just for chagrins, why use a diode? I simply float the battery across the bus. No diodes, no relays, no problems :) At home, I set things up a bit differently, I use a much smaller power supply since it has a lot more time to refill the battery. Essentially any supply that has non foldback current limiting, works nicely. The right supply has a current limit, and it will output that current into a battery or a dead short, 24/7. The foldback units are kind of useless for battery floating, when you hit a limit, they drop their output current to some much lower level, until the load goes away entirely. Switchers work nicely too, but some have no real current limiting, which is a bad thing. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: request for info; DV-200, Palomar Telecom
Well, that's certainly a lot more than I knew this morning. I dunno about the PROM/EEPROM business; I'll take a look at it when I get into work Monday; just tossed it in a drawer (with the radio it's attached to.) Hmm, maybe make it say The White Zone is for loading and unloading only. If you have to load or unload, go to the White Zone. You'll love it. It's a way of life. Gosh, I miss Zappa. Chuk --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 02:44 PM 4/8/05, you wrote: Thanks, Mike. Interesting thing is that it's joined with a Midian UED1A encoder/decoder; my guess is it was set up to decode a DTMF string, then respond back with it's pre-recorded message. The card was basically fed with a binary number and a strobe pulse and answered back with audio and a busy lead. The binary number told the card what word to say, and the strobe pulse stared the playback. The busy lead was active while the card was talking - think of it as PTT. Maybe I could make it live again? Dunno - I don't have docs on it. The voice encoding is unique to that product, and a PC program took wav files and encoded them. Palomar sold a software package that let folks encode their own files, unfortunately I don't know anyone who has it. You might find out that your card has a made-for-the- application set of sound files I saw one that was set up for an airport somewhere: The yellow painted curb area is for loading and unloading of passengers and baggage only. Do not leave your vehicle, it will be towed immediately. Not of much use in the repeater controller world Does the card have EEPROM or PROM chips? It will always have at lease one PROM chip for the on-board firmware, but the rest could be either. That will tell you if it is set up as a talker-only or as a record/playback card. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Andrew Heliax LDF1-50
I just looked at it, and yeah it is LDF1-50A. The reducers I had were too small for it, I was debating drilling out the one for RG-8X but then that would leave none of the reducer. On Apr 8, 2005 3:01 PM, Roger Grady [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 04:21 PM 4/8/05, Mike Perryman wrote: LDF is low-loss.. FSJ is standard.. and Super-Flex is as you describe below. Andrew calls LDF the standard cable, FSJ is Superflex (finer corrugations, can be bent to tighter radius and will stand more bends). FSJ has roughly 50% higher loss than LDF (at least in the 1/2 size and in the 150-450Mhz range that I compared). But even 1/2 FSJ has only 2.3 db/100' loss at 450Mhz. Roger Grady K9OPO Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] DB-420B Side Mounting
Hi, all. I have a Rohn 45G tower and a Rohn's Universal Sidearm Mount presently configured with several antennas. I want to rearrange the antennas and mount the DB-420 for my repeater using the Rohn universal sidearm mount. I want to use the universal sidearm to bottom and mid-mount the DB420 (the heavy, bottom half of the antenna)near the top of the tower to gain additional at the expense of a lower wind rating. The alternative is to bottom and top side mount the DB420 using the universal sidearm, but lower on the tower. The height difference either way is less than 10' but the tower is under 80' tall so the 10' can make a difference. I am in a 70 mph county in North Texas where we get severe weather each Spring. My question: Would the DB-420 be secure enough bottom and mid-mounted on the sidearm for additional height? Or is it better to bottom and top mount the DB420 with lower height but greater wind rating? Suggestions? Thanks Stewart Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] astron rs50
Remember to set the Astron voltage to the battery float voltage, and the float voltage for a sealed lead acid (i.e. gell cell) is different than that of a wet lead acid and is different than a nickel-cadmium bank. The Astron actually has to be set to the float voltage PLUS the voltage drop of the series diode. Just for chagrins, why use a diode? I simply float the battery across the bus. No diodes, no relays, no problems :) Better use an isolation diode... The linear Astron supplies I have worked on have a crowbar on the output. If it fires, it will foldback the supply causing no problem, but also put a dead short across the battery!! Not cool.. Royce - W3IF Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR-820 UHF
I recently acquired a TKR-820. Is it possible to program repeater to encode on COS? Is there a time out timer adjustment? I saw a note about time out alarm, but nothing about timer adjustment. Thanks in advance. David Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
