[BlindHandyMan] Good food practice

2006-07-24 Thread rj
http://www.fda.gov/fdac/features/895_kitchen.html


1. Refrigerators should stay at 40 F (5 C) or less, so if you chose answer
B, give yourself two points. If you didn't, you're not alone. According to
Robert
Buchanan, Ph.D., senior science adviser and director of science in the Food
and Drug Administration's Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, many
people overlook the importance of maintaining an appropriate refrigerator
temperature.

According to surveys, in many households, the refrigerator temperature is
above 50 degrees (10 C), he said.

His advice: Measure the temperature with a thermometer and, if needed,
adjust the refrigerator's temperature control dial.

A temperature of 40 F (5 C) or less is important because it slows the growth
of most bacteria. The temperature won't kill the bacteria, but it will keep
them from multiplying, and the fewer there are, the less likely you are to
get sick.

Freezing at zero F (minus 18 C) or less stops bacterial growth (although it
won't kill bacteria already present).

2. Answer B is the best practice; give yourself two points if you picked it.

Hot foods should be refrigerated as soon as possible within two hours after
cooking. But don't keep the food if it's been standing out for more than two
hours. Don't taste test it, either. Even a small amount of contaminated food
can cause illness.

Date leftovers so they can be used within a safe time. Generally, they
remain safe when refrigerated for three to five days. If in doubt, throw it
out,
says FDA microbiologist Kelly Bunning, Ph.D., associate senior science
adviser in CFSAN: It's not worth a foodborne illness for the small amount
of food
usually involved.

3. If answer A best describes your household's practice, give yourself two
points. Give yourself one point if you chose B.

According to John Guzewich, CFSAN's director of emergency coordination and
response, the kitchen sink drain, disposal and connecting pipe are often
overlooked,
but they should be sanitized periodically by pouring down the sink a
solution of 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of chlorine bleach in 1 quart (about
1 liter)
of water or a solution of commercial kitchen cleaning agent made according
to product directions. Food particles get trapped in the drain and disposal
and, along with the moistness, create an ideal environment for bacterial
growth.

4. If answer D best describes your household's practice, give yourself two
points.

If you picked A, you're violating an important food safety rule: Never allow
raw meat, poultry and fish to come in contact with other foods. Answer B
isn't
good, either. Improper washing, such as with a damp cloth, will not remove
bacteria. And washing only with soap and water may not do the job, either.

To prevent cross-contamination from a cutting board, the FDA advises
consumers to follow these practices:
List of 3 items
. Use smooth cutting boards made of hard maple or a non-porous material such
as plastic and free of cracks and crevices. These kinds of boards can be
cleaned
easily. Avoid boards made of soft, porous materials.
. Wash cutting boards with hot water, soap, and a scrub brush to remove food
particles. Then sanitize the boards by putting them through the automatic
dishwasher
or rinsing them in a solution of 1 teaspoon (5 milliliters) of chlorine
bleach in 1 quart (about 1 liter) of water.
. Always wash and sanitize cutting boards after using them for raw foods and
before using them for ready-to-eat foods. Consider using one cutting board
only for foods that will be cooked, such as raw fish, and another only for
ready-to-eat foods, such as bread, fresh fruit, and cooked fish. Disposable
cutting boards are a newer option, and can be found in grocery and discount
chain stores.
list end

5. Give yourself two points if you picked answer B or C.

Ground beef must be cooked to an internal temperature of 160 degrees
Fahrenheit (71 degrees Celsius). Using a digital or dial food thermometer is
crucial,
the U.S. Department of Agriculture says, because research results indicate
that some ground meat may prematurely brown before a safe internal
temperature
has been reached. On the other hand, research findings also show that some
ground meat patties cooked to 160 F or above may remain pink inside for a
number
of reasons; thus the color of meat alone is not considered a reliable
indicator of ground beef safety. If eating out, order your ground beef to be
cooked
well-done. Temperatures for other foods to reach to be safe include:
List of 5 items
. beef, lamb and veal--145 F (63 C)
. pork and ground beef--160 F (71 C)
. whole poultry and thighs--180 F (82 C)
. poultry breasts--170 F (77 C)
. ground chicken or ground turkey--165 F (74 C).
list end

Seafood should be thoroughly cooked to an internal temperature of at least
145 F (63 C). Fish that's ground or flaked, such as a fish cake, should be
cooked
to at least 155 F (68 C), and stuffed fish to at least 165 F (74 C).

If you don't have a meat thermometer, 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outdoor deadbult

2006-08-02 Thread rj
I use a graphite that comes in a powder form. I usually will apply it to the
key and insert it into the lock. If the key method doesn't seem to do the
trick, I will take the tube that comes with the graphite spray and spray it
into the lock.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Ruby [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outdoor deadbult


 I have a deadbolt that the key is very hard to insert in to the lock, is
 there something I can use to help with this. The lock keyhole is clear, it
 is like maybe a shot of a lubricant would do the trick. I do not want to
use
 wd40 as I don't care for that getting all over my keys.




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Re: [BlindHandyMan] O K, plan b.

2006-08-03 Thread rj
Than why are you grinning?
Smiles,
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Phil Parr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blind like me [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: list handy blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 11:38 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] O K, plan b.


Alright, since none of you wimpy bastards would step up to the plate
and take on the coveted job of guest coordinator for the shows we are forced
to go to plan b. Although, before I give up let me point out all the
benefits bestowed upon one by  accepting such a challenge.
You would of course be associated with the most listened to blindness
related shows on either radio reading services or the internet. There would
be a special exhibit in the blind handyman hall of fame with your picture
and a description of your life and work both in print and brail. and last
but certainly not least, thru special arrangement you would be aloud to ask
Dan Rossi up to four questions per year. And as if that weren't enough, and
it dam well should be I have a bonus for you. If you can keep a secret I
might tell you Boops real name. O well, I suppose some persons just don't
know a good thing when it comes their way.

Seriously, here is plan b. If you can think or know of some one whom
you think might make a good guest for either show could you pleas apprise us
of that persons contact information. As I said, locating guests for both
shows is an every week thing and, any help you can give would be greatly
appreciated. We know their are thousands yea, hundreds of thousands of blind
people who would make wonderful guests for the shows the question is how do
we make contact with them.
In total their are almost four hundred persons on both lists. Now I
know, some of us are on both so here is the point.  If all of you sent us a
potential guest we would have enough for several years. o k, if you are on
both lists you must send two.

Part of this little post has just been in jest but, we really do need
all the help we can get.

Thanks, Phil Parr.

P S, I apologize for calling you a wimpy bastard.

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] window air conditioners

2006-08-03 Thread rj
If you have a ceiling exhaust fan and about 3/4 inch gap at the bottom of
the bathroom,  shut the door and turn on the exhaust fan. It will draw the
hot out and draw the cool air through the house. Not as good as a attic fan
but does work.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Trouble [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 8:12 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] window air conditioners


 With a Central air unit. You cool all airiers not just one. I got a
 apartment with a window/wall mount in the wall. It cools only half
 the apartment. My back bedroom stays warm no matter what I do. Even
 using a second fan to push the cool air down the hall doesn't do a
 thing. Glad all rooms here have ceiling fans in them. Wish it had Central
air.

 At 08:37 PM 8/1/2006, you wrote:
 Lee,
 I am not really sure that Central Air is best.
 I think it might depend on how many folks live in your house.
 It seems to me that if there are just a couple then it would be more
 efficient to only heat or cool the area you are using.
  From all I have read the per BTU cost of a window unit is just about the
 same as the central units. This being the case, since the window units
are
 as efficient then you really gain nothing by using the central unit
except
 the convenience of not having to bother with the units in each area.
 As high as energy is getting it might save quite a bit of money not to
cool
 those areas of your house you are not currently using. AT night just cool
 your bedroom and during the day you need not cool the bedroom cause you
 ain't supposed to be in bed, you are supposed to be out doing something
 meaningful. (LOL)
 
 Cy, the Ancient Okie...  you
 
 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of stonedge
 Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 6:31 AM
 To: Blind Handyman
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] window air conditioners
 
 
   out of 4 window air conditioners, I have two which I can operate. I do
this
 by just unplugging the machine to clean the filters . However two newer
ones
 I can still clean the pop out  filter but the newer ones are programable
so
 I do not make any adjustments, especially with the hot weather which has
 found its way to the Northeast. I might also say, If I had the money and
a
 better brain at the time I would have opted for central air which my
furnace
 is set up for. Now that I said all of that, how many of you are operating
 air conditioners which are more than 10
 years old.   .I'dfinish by asking sighted folks in my house to not to
 touch any settings on these older machines as I always know what is set
to
 what I want. thanks.Lee
 
 
 
 --
 Nondeterminism means never having to say you are wrong.
 
 
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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 Man list just send a blank message to:
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 Tim
 trouble
 Blindeudora list owner.
 To subscribe or info: http://www.freelists.org/webpage/blindeudora




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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 Visit The New

Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas

2006-08-06 Thread rj
It depends on how much work you are up to. If there is a area of the house
where you could cut a hole in the ceiling between the ceiling joists,
without running into wires or other things, I would floor it with 3/4 4x8.
If not, than the expensive tongue and groove is the other choice.
- Original Message - 
From: Shawn Keen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 9:36 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas


 So many good ideas and not enough time to enact them.


 I live in this old 1940's built home with a detached garage. It's a single
 story with an attic. well take that back it has an attic but I'd like to
put
 some floors in up there.

 Here's what it looks like.  You pull the trap door down in the hall and
 unfold the stairs. when you get up there you have a floored area
  of about 8 by 8. The rest of it is the beams and insalation that feels
like
 cotten balls.
  there is a fairly high sealing in there.  Someone over 6 foot would have
 real issues but I can stand up strate in most of it.

 First things first would be to put in a floor. Crawling from beam to beam
 isn't all that fun.  What kind of wood will I need. do you do something
like
 this in slats or in large peaces? How thick  should I go?  Do I just leave
 the insalation where it is and seal it up?

 I hadn't got far enough in to it to know what I am going to do with it
other
 than storage. The wife thinks it could be large enough to be another
room.
 Putting in stairs would be one heck of a nightmare I imagine but I'm no
 where near that yet.

 Just wanted to pick your brains and see what I am getting myself into.


 Dan you should move down here, There's a house for-sale next door! Just
 kidding!

 Shawn







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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Make a Network Patch Cable

2006-08-06 Thread rj
Not Ray, but here goes.

One attach the drain basket that come with the disposal by taking a thin
ring of plumber putty and applying it to the bottom of the lip of the drain
basket. Insert the basket in the sink hole. Put the paper ring first. Rubber
ring on second. Metal ring on third around the threads and than tighten the
large nut to the drain basket. You can attach the electric cable to the
disposal before installing it to the drain basket now or wait until you
install the disposal to the drain basket. I like installing these before
installing the disposal to the sink. Now  hold the disposal unit as level as
possible and press it in place to the drain basket and turn the latch ring
on to the lugs of the disposal making sure the drain hole of the disposal is
facing the right way for your drain. Attach the drain pipe that comes with
the disposal to the  disposal. It is usually held in place with a clamp that
fits over the flange of the pipe by tightening the bolt.
If it is a single bowl sink, just hook up the trap to this pipe and connect
the load line to the power switch and you are done.

If it is a double bowl sink, you will need a y or tee so you can put in a
second trap for the disposal and having a trap for the sink drain.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Make a Network Patch Cable


 Yes even though I can see colors I don't always get them correct the first
time out. I imagine not being able to do this without Patty's help myself.
Still I thank Ray for doing the research that I asked him to do. This may
come in handy down the line, in fact I'm sure it will. I'm also going to
post it up on the files page along with many of the other articles that have
come across here as of late. Lastly Ray I don't recall if there is a file on
installing a garbage disposal or not. If there isn't would you please
correct that over site as well? Thanks for all the hard work you put in to
this venture we have going. Also Tom if you could come up with another
alternative to the techniques  displayed in this article pertaining to
network patch cables please post them as well. Information is good so the
more the better.
 David Ferrin
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 - Original Message - 
 From: Tom Fowle
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 8:13 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] How to Make a Network Patch Cable


 Obviously this task, as discribed here, is inaccessible to a
 blind person.

 I wonder if one might do one end at random, then, using a
 continuity tester, match the wiring to another plug.

 Bad idea I guess as any sighted person looking at the result
 would see the colors were wrong.

 I can imagine wanting to do this if pulling long runs of cable
 through conduit.

 I'll ask our network admin guy if he knows of any other options
 for doing this without seeing colors.

 Tom

 Net-Tamer V 1.13 Beta - Registered




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[BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2006-08-06 Thread rj
Here is a article that is more indepht,
RJ

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTop=Improve/garbdispo.html


Replacing a garbage disposer is easier than you think.

Install a Garbage Disposer

Skill Level:
Advanced




Installing a garbage disposer is a relatively easy project for an
intermediate do-it-yourselfer. All you need are a few basic tools (and a
little bit of
patience) to get started. Lowe's is happy to provide this information as a
service
to you.

If you intend to install one where there was none previously, it will
require installing a switch and running electrical power to the unit. You
can do this
yourself if you are confident in your wiring ability and are familiar with
local codes. If not, have an electrician run the wire for you before or
after
you install the unit. A new installation will also require that your sink
have a full-size drain opening.

Espanol
E-mail
Printable Version
Add to my Projects

table end

Article Content

Tools  Materials
Installation
Electrical Service

Tools  Materials

item.

Tools
List of 3 items
. Wrench
(if unit attaches with bolts)
. Phillips and straight
Screwdrivers
rga/icon_info
. Pliers
rga/icon_info
or pipewrench
list end

Materials
List of 6 items
. Hose clamp
. Plumber's putty
. Wirenuts
. Hacksaw
rga/icon_info
. Goggles
. Disposer unit
and
accessories
list end


Installation

Installation Services!

If you are uncomfortable or uncertain about working with electricity,
contact a qualified licensed professional for your project.

Exclamation

When working with electricity always:
List of 7 items
1. Turn off the power.
2. Test the wires to ensure the power is off.
3. Lock the panel box, so no one can accidentally turn the power back on
while you are working.
4. Check with local authorities to see if a permit is required.
5. Have your work checked by an inspector.
6. Wear eye goggles and a dust mask.
7. To avoid overloading the circuit, consult a licensed electrician.
list end

If you have a two-bowl sink, remove the drain lines that connect the two
bowls. Remove the strainer from the bowl to which you will be attaching the
disposer.
Then remove the strainer body which forms the rim to which the drain line
was attached. Once complete, you will be left with a simple hole in the
bottom
of the sink bowl.

Roll plumbers putty between your hands to form a snake, then run it around
the base of the disposer flange included with the unit. Place the flange in
the drain hole, seating it firmly.

Install the gasket and upper and lower mounting rings on the flange. Then,
snap the retaining ring in place. Tighten the three screws on the lower
mounting
ring until the flange is firmly seated. Most of the plumber's putty will
have squeezed from around the top of the flange at this point. Trim the
putty
and clean the sink.

Attach the disposer unit to the flange according to the manufacturer's
directions. (Some are attached using a mounting ring. Others are attached
with bolts.)

Using the included washer or gasket, attach the discharge tube to the
discharge opening in the side of the unit. If a dishwasher is to be attached
to the
unit, knock out the plug inside the dishwasher nipple with a screwdriver.
Clamp the dishwasher discharge tube in place on the nipple.

Install the drain lines. If you have a two-bowl sink, both bowls can be
routed through a single P-trap by running the discharge tube from the
disposer to
a T in the drain line above the trap. (See the illustration)

Back to Top

Electrical Service

Ideally, the disposer should have its own circuit. If this is impossible or
impractical, and you already have a dishwasher in place, you may be able to
tie into the dishwasher circuit.

The switch necessary to operate the unit is a simple single-pole switch,
wired as illustrated in the accompanying graphic. The white wires are tied
together
with an appropriate wire nut, as are the bare ground wires. The black wires
are each attached to a terminal on the switch-the incoming wire is attached
to the bottom terminal, and the wire which travels to the disposer unit is
attached to the top terminal.

If you are using an existing switched circuit, or if you've had an
electrician install one for you, the electrical connections necessary to
install the
disposal are minimal. At the disposal, remove the plate that covers the
electrical connections for the unit. Using a appropriate wire nut, connect
the
white wire from the disposer unit to the white wire from the switch. Do the
same with the black wires, then connect the bare ground wire from the switch
to the ground connector on the disposer. Replace the cover plate.

Back to Top

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] I'm a pack-rat!

2006-08-06 Thread rj
Borrow my wife for a week. I can guarantee you excellence results. And if
you go away for two days, it will be done in one.
smile
- Original Message - 
From: Barry Levine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I'm a pack-rat!



 Hi Folks,

 I'm just writing this out of frustration with myself.
 My workshop, which is as old as the house... Twenty years, is filled with
 the detritus of projects going back those twenty years, and I can't seem
to
 get myself to throw anything away!  What's wrong with me?  I need a
 twelve-step program... Pack-rats anonymous.
 Hello, my name is Barry Levine... And I keep workshop crap!

 I have scraps of odd-shaped wood which are good for nothing, except the
 fireplace.
 I have specialty nuts, bolts and various other fastening hardware which,
if
 they ever had a purpose, I've long since forgotten what it is.  But, of
 course, you never know when you're going to need a specialty fastener for
 something which, currently, doesn't exist.
 I have old power tools which no longer work.
 I have table-saw blades with broken teeth.  Anyone in need of a 10 inch
 sawblade with broken teeth?  Didn't think so.

 I have scraps of PVC... Again, good for nothing.
 I have old Christmas tree lights which found their way to my workshop a
 decade ago because they weren't working.  They're still not working.  Am I
 going to bother to fix them?  No!  So, why do I still have them?
 Why do I have allen wrenches which came with something or another, yet I
no
 longer own the something or another?
 Why do I hang on to a handsaw which is hopelessly bowed?
 Why do I have spools of speaker wire for speakers which I no longer
have?...
 Speaker wire that I'll never use again, having long since moved on to
other
 types of speaker wire?  Is it a sin to throw away old speaker wire?
 I have an old toybox down there, which one of my kids broke when he was
 about 5 years old.  He's now twenty-two.  And, the toybox wasn't anything
 special when we bought it!  Though, I suppose it does serve a purpose in
 that it is the storage place for a whole bunch of other crap which I'll
 never need or use again.
 I have an old wooden kitchen chair waiting to be fixed.  We replaced that
 entire kitchen set about 5 years ago.  We got rid of it... Except this
 chair... Which, of course, is still sitting down there, waiting for me to
 fix.
 And the old paint!  The paint cans!  Paint cans from when the house was
 first built!  Can you believe it?
 And batteries, and battery chargers... From tools which no longer work.
 But, you just never know when they might spring back to life, and if I
threw
 away the batteries, I'd be sunk.  So, there they sit... Just waiting for a
 purpose in life.


 Does anyone know of a cure for this disease?
 I'd be forever in your debt!

 --Barry






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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas

2006-08-07 Thread rj
Shawn,

Ever give it a thought of putting a window in the gable and bringing up
plywood through the opening to cover the floor in the attic?
RJ- Original Message - 
From: Shawn Keen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas



 I see, thanks for the information.

 This home was built in 1941.   back in the time in the U.S when things
were
 built to last! Not acording to who the cheapist contracter was.  I'll have
 to ask my neighbor but I bet his home is the same way with the 2 by 8's.





 - Original Message - 
 From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 10:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas


  Joists refer to horizontal structural members. They are the planks set
on
  edge under a floor or over a ceiling. It gets a little complicated
because
  when talking of a roof frame, the more or less triangular structures now
  commonly used and known as trusses will call the horizontal members
  stringers or something else. It is very unusual to have 2 by 8 as the
  joists
  over a ceiling except between the stories of a multi-storied home and
  usually those will be 2 by 10 or more.
 
  In a ceiling, 24 inch centres are not unusual even with 2 by 4
  construction
  and these days with engineered trusses there may not even be 2 by 4.
 
  Partitions are the walls which separate rooms. The wall between kitchen
  and
  livingroom usually provides support for a ceiling particularly if it
runs
  perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Often they are weight bearing walls
  and
  should not be removed or if modified, should be reinforced across the
tops
  of doors to help support the weight above.
 
 
 
  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
 
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shawn Keen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 3:32 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas
 
 
 
  Just so I am using the right terminology are Joist the 2 by 8 boards
that
  go
  across the sealing or the floor of the attic.? Also what are
partitions?
 
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 1:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas
 
 
  The joists then are probably on 24 inch centers. Depending a little on
  how
  many partitions are under, 2 by 8 should be quite good.
 
  Commonly the sub floor is made of tongue and grooved 5/8th plywood
which
  comes in 4 by 8 foot sheets. I doubt you will be able to get them
  through
  the trap door. You may be able to buy planks of ship which has a
rabbet
  along the edges which you nail through to the joist overlapping each
  piece.
  You may even be able to buy tongue  groove. Traditionally such planks
  are
  nailed down diagonally across the joists.
 
  If you are going to live in the space then you will either want to
bring
  heat into it or remove the insulation to permit heat to rise into the
  space.
  You will then want to keep that heat from contacting the under side of
  the
  roof decking unless you live in a moderate climate. Because there is
an
  air
  conditioner I am guessing you will want to insulate against heat on
the
  roof
  from heating that space, either way you will need to maintain air
  circulation under the roof decking. You can leave the insulation over
  the
  ceiling for it's sound properties and if you are just using the space
  for
  storage then it won't matter much.
 
  You may like to bring some more electricity up there, lots of people
  like
  to
  run a radio shack from their attic or model trains, things like that.
 
  Have fun!
 
 
  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
 
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Shawn Keen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 9:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home remodeling ideas
 
 
  Okay, I had another look.
 
  What do they have for a floor up there now?
  a board that's probably about 3 foot wide and 8 feet long.  that's a
  guestament.
  the beams up there are  2 by 8.
  Only the space just beyond the ladder and too the air conditioning
unit
  is
  covered right now.
 
  Generally you wouldn't be able to get sheets of plywood up through
the
  trap
  door so you will need to use plank construction. One trouble though
is
  nailing, the joists are probably only 2 by 4 and not rigid enough,
  hammering
  and moving about particularly over wider spans like a living room
will
  probably cause movement and cracks in the ceiling plaster or screws
or
  nails
  to pop.
 
  Just

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Skill Saw

2006-08-08 Thread rj
You are pinching the saw blade. Try going a little easier and let the blade
do the work. Another way is to make a  small jig like a  carpenter square
that can be clamped on the board for a crosscut and use it as a guide. What
I did was cut out a triangle out of a piece of 1/2 inch plywood and grooved
out a piece of 1 x 1 1/2  inch board and screwed and glue the triangle into
the groove and clamp it on to the board I am cutting. Or if I am ripping  I
will c clamp a straight board on the piece I am ripping and use it as my
guide.Hope I made myself clear.

RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jewel Blanch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 10:47 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Skill Saw


 Tell me: clever folk:  why is it that when I try to use my skill saw, I
get so far and
 then instead of the blade progressing onward, it springs back?   Am I
pushing it crooked?

   Jewel



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 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
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[BlindHandyMan] Post for deck and porch

2006-08-15 Thread rj
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/decks/oldporch/found/footing.htm

I was surprise in your area the code calls for cement instead of gravel
around the deck posts. For years I been using the method in this article to
keep  the water away from the deck posts. This site also have more articles
pertaining to the subject.

Bruce W. Maki,



Editor

This article describes the procedure for making a simple square footing from
concrete. While the structure being supported is a porch for an old house,
this footing method would work equally well for a deck. This footing is
quite large (16 by 16) and was used to support a 6x6 post. Smaller posts
could
use a much smaller footing, perhaps 8 square or 12 square.

When this photo was taken we had just completed a repair job on the stone
foundation below the porch.

The porch framing had rotted and was removed a few years earlier. We used a
pair of 2x6's to prop up the porch roof.

The previous owners had used these concrete blocks to support the corner of
the porch deck. We continued to use the blocks for temporary support while
the
house foundation was repaired.

But at this point the blocks were invited to leave.

Right below the cement blocks was this large (but shallow) footing. This
hunk of concrete was about 24 inches in diameter. This footing was a waste
of time
and material. It doesn't need to be so big, but it needed to be deeper in
the ground.

Here in Northern Michigan footings normally must be at least 48 inches deep
to ensure that frost never gets below them and heaves them upward.

We dug the hole about 5 feet deep. First we used a shovel to excavate about
2 feet down, and then we used a pair of post-hole diggers to complete the
task.

The soil on the bottom of the hole was leveled and tamped with a 4x4 post.
We made a simple footing form out of 2x8 boards. The footing will be 16 x
16,
and almost 8  thick.

Technical Stuff:

This footing size is far bigger than the minimum required. We estimated the
load on the porch column to be no more than 2,000 pounds. For the roof, we
estimated
500 pounds of dead load (the wood and shingles) and 500 pounds of live load
(one-fourth of the 5' x 13' roof area, multiplied by the 30
pound-per-square-foot
snow load for this area). Then we assumed the same load for the porch floor.

This 16-inch-square footing has 1.78 square feet of bearing area. Even the
lowest capacity soil (soft clay or loam) can withstand 2000 pounds per
square
foot (PSF). But the soil here is a sandy clay, which can support 4000 PSF or
possibly more. So our footing would be able to support over 7,000 pounds
safely.
True, it's over-built, but the extra cost is trivial (a $1.65 bag of
concrete mix).

We used a long stick to accurately position the old porch column perfectly
plumb. The red numbers on the stick are from some other job and don't mean
anything.

In a wheelbarrow I mixed 2 and 1/2 bags of ready-mix concrete.

Estimating Concrete Quantities:

Cured concrete weighs between 120 and 140 pounds per cubic foot. Each 60
pound bag makes about 1/2 of a cubic foot of concrete. I calculated the
footing
volume to be 1.2 cubic feet, so I needed a little more than 2 bags.

I placed a couple of inches of concrete in the bottom of the  footing, and
then pushed in two pieces of reinforcing bar (rebar) in an X-formation.
These
pieces of rebar are set about an inch above the bottom.

Putting rebar in the exact center (when viewed vertically) of a footing,
slab, or beam is a waste. The center of these horizontal structures is known
as
the neutral axis, and it usually bears no tensile or compressive stresses.
There is no benefit to strengthening the neutral axis. Rebar is needed near
the bottom and possibly near the top of footings and similar structures.

When the concrete form was filled, I pushed in two more pieces of rebar,
just below the surface by an inch or so.

This is an anchor bolt. The L-shape keeps it locked in the concrete.

I pushed the anchor bolt (with the nut and washer removed) into the center
of the footing.

This is a concrete edging tool. Very inexpensive, less than $5.

The edger is meant for creating smooth rounded edges on sidewalks and
driveway slabs.

I used the edger to form a neat corner on the footing.

I have never seen professional concrete contractors do this to footings. So
why did we do it? Because a rounded corner is less prone to chipping and
cracking.
This took about 5 seconds. I had the tool nearby. What the heck?

This is a premium galvanized steel 6 post base. The hole in the center is
for the anchor bolt. The post rests above the concrete footing, which keeps
it
drier, thus prolonging it's life.

While the concrete was still wet, I put the post base in place, so it would
be level and slightly embedded in the concrete. I did not install the washer
and nut until the next day, when the concrete had hardened.

Later, when we did the porch framing, we installed the 6x6 treated post.

We probably could have used a 4x4 post, but 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review, Tile Cutting Saw

2006-08-16 Thread rj
Ray,

I agree with this article, A power tile cutter is worth its weight in gold.
It not only save time, but also save tile breakage. 3 years ago my wife and
I started out with a manual tile cutter, laying down more than 1100 square
feet of the stuff. It didn't take me long to rent a tile table saw for
$12.50 a day. What we did, was to lay all the full tile, rent the saw for a
day and cut and filled in the needed areas. Which took us  just a short time
to finish that task and had the saw back at the rental place before 5 PM
that day.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Boyce, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:20 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Tool Review, Tile Cutting Saw


 Hi
 GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting Saw
 Review

 So you've made more than a hundred woodworking projects, spent endless
 hours in the workshop, and now its time to renovate the bathroom,
 kitchen or laundry
 area and your significant other wants you to do it!

 Tiling may not be your specialty, but if you need to cut tiles to fit an
 edge or to work around an immovable object, a powered tile cutter will
 make life
 a little easier!

 Today we are taking a look at the GMC Tile Cutter, which is another tool
 from the GMC range fitted out with their Redeye laser feature. Let's
 take a closer
 look...

 Out of the Box
 The GMC LSTSAW Laser Tile Cutting saw ships mostly assembled. All you
 really need to do is attach the laser mount arm to the saw, add the
 fence, and install
 the supplied batteries into the laser's battery compartment. Certainly
 one of the more simpler and quicker out-of-the-box setups we have
 encountered lately
 I must say!

 There is the normal high-quality, color-printed manual supplied with the
 tile saw, as with most GMC products now, as well as standard warranty
 card and
 registration information. Everything was in tip-top condition once
 assembled - no dints or dings to be seen.

 Specifications
 Below are the listed specifications as per the manual for this tool:

 Power: 650W
 Speed: 2950 RPM
 Blade Size: 180mm Diamond Blade
 Bore Size: 15.88mm (5/8)
 Bevel Capacity: 0 to 45 degrees
 Maximum Cutting Depth at 90 deg: 35mm
 Maximum Cutting Depth at 45 deg: 21mm
 Table Size: 420mm x 360mm
 Laser Class: 2
 Laser Output: 1mW
 Batteries: 2 x AAA

 Features  Function
 The first feature you may notice once you have this tool out of the box
 and are ready to move it to its place of use is the integrated tool
 handle. Located
 on the left side of the tool (when standing in front of it) the flip up
 handle allows you to carry the tool around very easily and conveniently.
 The weight
 of the tool seems pretty well centered under the handle, so there is
 little strain when lugging the tool around.

 The motor offers 650W output. For tile cutting this is plenty. Most
 tiles have a similar thickness and few ceramic tiles measure more than a
 quarter or
 third of an inch thick (except from some specialty tiles) so 650W of
 power is more than enough to complete regular tile cutting tasks with
 ease. I haven't
 been able to bog the saw down yet during a regular tile cut. The motor
 is also of the induction type. It is very quiet when switched on and no
 ear protection
 will be needed. Once you start cutting a tile however, the noise level
 jumps up a little. This is not the saw itself becoming noisier, but
 simply the noise
 the tile makes as it is being sliced by the diamond blade.

 The saw uses a standard, non-segmented 180mm diamond edged cutting
 blade. The bore size is listed at 15.88mm, which is 5/8. Finding
 replacement blades
 shouldn't be terribly difficult if you search a big box hardware store,
 or from tile retailers that also sell cutting gear (many do). A quality
 tile cutting
 blade will last for quite a long time if used only to cut common tile
 materials. A plastic blade guard protects the user from accidentally
 striking a spinning
 blade causing injury. Personally, I found the blade guard was a little
 flimsy, but when set properly, it performs the task it is designed to do
 and doesn't
 really move when the saw is turned on and cutting is in progress, so who
 I am to criticize! Its light weight probably contributes to the saw's
 easy portability,
 so my back certainly is thankful for that.

 The next main feature is the table itself. It can tilt to the right to
 45 degrees if you have a need to make a beveled tile cut. As most tile
 cuts will
 likely be made at the square 90 degree setting, I didn't really find
 much use for the tilting table function but at least the function is
 there if and
 when you do need it. A small knob on the front of the unit releases the
 table allowing you to tilt it to 45 degrees. The small etched scale and
 arrow marking
 system approximates the bevel angle. It's crude but more than sufficient
 for tiling cuts, where accuracy to less than a single degree is rarely
 required,
 if at all.

 The scale on the table itself

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance

2006-08-16 Thread rj
Some of these fans are made so you can't take them apart without  some
effort. But it is a good ideal to lubricate the bearing. I use a little
Vaseline on the shaft that seems to work well.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jennifer Jackson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 10:51 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance


 Ok, this question also involves a true confession. *smile*  I have a fan
that I use every night and is about three years old.  I have never done any
kind of eminence to it.  It has gotten where it will not run on low and
hesitates before it starts on high.  Obviously I need to pull it apart and
clean the blades and all, but should I do some special kind of oiling?


 Jennifer


 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] ice maker

2006-08-21 Thread rj
My opinion is to let the guarantee take care of it. The most I would do, is
defrost the unit.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 4:05 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ice maker


 I am having a problem with my ice maker.  The ice is being made, but once
 froze, the mechanism that rolls around and forces the cubes out isn't
doing
 it's job.  Yes, I have the arm that turns on and off the ice maker in the
 correct position.  The type is the kind that you can get water, crush ice,
 and ice cubes right from the door.  It's under warranty, and they are
coming
 out next week, but if I can get it fixed before then I'd appreciate it.


 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] What's the buzz?

2006-08-23 Thread rj
Wal-Mart has a very good concentrate spray that  worked for me. It is called
bug be gone. Around $6 for about a 8 or 12 ounce bottle. I bought a hose
sprayer and set the amount of concentrate per gallon and did the perimeter
of the house and the shutters which were loaded with yellow jackets or
hornets. It only took one treatment.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Boop [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 9:54 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] What's the buzz?


 Here is the problem.
 We have flower beds right outside our main
 door.  There are some different bushes and flowers
 planted in the 10 foot bed.  Right now, there is
 also some kind of ground nest of
 bees/wasps/hornets planted right at the base of
 one of the bushes.  The bed is about 4 feet from
 the house and is covered in bark mulch, so burning
 them out is not an option.  Tom got nailed once in
 the hand before we knew the bees were there, and
 after 4 days, you can almost see the knuckle
 again.  We have sprayed that hole, then he sprayed
 another hole that he found about 6 feet away from
 the first hole.  Last night I walked outside about
 an hour after he sprayed and all I could hear were
 the swarming bees.  Does anyone have another
 solution to get rid of the bees?  We have used two
 or three cans of spray on them so far, but they
 are still there.

 Boop

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 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] What's the buzz?

2006-08-23 Thread rj
Hi there,

I have vinyl siding and it hasn't stain it or My wife would have raise hell.
plus I live on 9  acres in the middle of the lot, where there are only 2
acres that are cleared and the rest is woods. This year, I had a
professional come in early spring and had them treat the house for $135,
with a guarantee of 9 month without a insect problem. No bees, hornet
spiders, wasps and etc. It was worth the money spend and for the nest in the
surrounding trees, I still use Bugs be Gone.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Boop [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 2:04 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] What's the buzz?


 Hi RJ,
 Our house is surrounded by woods, so I
 know this won't be the last time we have bees.  I
 think I'll send Tom to Wal-mart soon.  This stuff
 won't kill the plants, or stain the vinyl siding,
 right?  We always have a problem with another kind
 of bug in the fall too.  We my try this stuff on
 the western conifer seed bugs too.  I have other
 names for them, but we won't go there on the list.

 Thanks.
 Boop


 Wal-Mart has a very good concentrate spray that
 worked for me. It is called
 bug be gone. Around $6 for about a 8 or 12 ounce
 bottle. I bought a hose
 sprayer and set the amount of concentrate per
 gallon and did the perimeter
 of the house and the shutters which were loaded
 with yellow jackets or
 hornets. It only took one treatment.
 RJ

 -- 
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 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.0.394 / Virus Database: 268.11.3/423 -
 Release Date: 8/18/2006




 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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[BlindHandyMan] Mailbox post

2006-09-07 Thread rj
Here is what I did for the mailbox post. Took a 4x 4 x 10' and cut it in
half. Rounded the top cut end of one of the five foot pieces. Measured up 4
foot on that post and cut a groove half way through the thickness of the
post. The width of the 4 x 4 and cut a piece three foot long off the other
five foot piece at a 45 degree angle and cut a groove to match the first
groove on the five foot post. Tap the two pieces together and secured them
with screw. Cut a 45 degree angle on the remaining two foot piece and braced
up the cross piece with it . Bought a 4 x 4 ground bracket. Pound it into
the ground and took the post and placed it into the bracket and tighten the
nut to secure the 5 foot post and attached the mailbox to the cross piece
and it been there now for three years. When the snowplow hit it this year,
all I had to do was reset the post into the metal bracket and secure it with
the nut.



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] question building screens

2006-09-17 Thread rj
I found a good heavy wire fencing material to work for this. Something like
fencing for a rabbit pen.

- Original Message - 
From: Kevin Doucet [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 10:31 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question building screens


 Hi list,

 My house is on a hill and the ground in the back rises so that my
 crawl space vents are , slightly, below ground. As many may know this
 sort of structure has a wall of bricks around the perimeter of the
 vents in a manner which is called a well. I can actually
 sit comfortably on these brick walls surrounding the vents. Well,
 Every fall I get lots of leaves in these wells. I want to build
 frames with a screen material to place on top of these wells to catch
 the leaves so I can easily dump them off, instead of digging all the
 leaves out. So, what ideas do you have to make the screens in a
 manner to serve my purpose and still be strong enough to stand up to
 the task. I don't feel just the screen material will be strong enough
 to sustain the weight of the leaves on their own. Might need some
 sort of frame work of rods or something.

 I feel I may need to use pressure treated wood. What do all of you think.



 Thanks.



 Kevin Doucet
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 confuse as says

 Blind man with unmarked forehead has large belly!



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] size of chain saw

2006-09-20 Thread rj
No problem with Max. Just don't call me to late for the cook out when you
get the fire burning after you chop down that there cherry tree. A buck saw
is manual, but I fine to be a helpful tool. It is a saw  which has a 1 inch
tubular structure that is shaped  in some what of a v form the saw blade
fits in.  As for a electric saw, for small jobs, I have a Sears 12 inch
electric saw I had for years, as long as  the blade is sharp, it does a good
job up to about 6 to 8 inches. But fine my 18 inch  saw to be my weapon of
choice.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] size of chain saw


 Hi max, first of all, what is a buck saw?  If it's manual, I don't want
it.
 Also, I was doing some checking around on the web, and didn't fine
anything
 gas powered that was smaller than 14 inches.  They sure do have a big
 selection of electric chain saws.  I still don't believe in these electric
 chain saws.  One of my in laws cut a stump down for me a few years ago
that
 was about 6 inches in diameter, and it must have took him at least 10
 minutes to cut through it.


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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Neighbor's Pets

2006-09-27 Thread rj
Why not shoot the party that is responsible, instead of the animals that
aren't?

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Neighbor's Pets


 Hire a commando covered in cat stink to lie outside with a shotgun and
 finish these intruders
 I'm sorry but I ave no tolerance for those who want to walk around my
 place without paying proper respect to my ownership.
 Feed them poisoned mice.
 Hire a virologist.

 On Wed, 27 Sep 2006, Lee A. Stone wrote:

 
  Geno, maybe if the Lady installed one of those stuffed barking dogs from
  Walmart, one that would not only bark every 5 minutes but would also
  produce heavy volumes of gas, then maybe the cats would  never return.
  Now if the barking and gas producing dog did not do it then of course a
  Hancy woman project is in line. inclose the porch with chicken wire and
  hang obscene signs  all over this now inclosed porch. . if that does not
  work. I'd go for the falme thrower. Lee
 
 
 
  -- 
  Hark, the Herald Tribune sings,
  Advertising wondrous things.
 
  Angels we have heard on High
  Tell us to go out and Buy.
  -- Tom Lehrer
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shoe repair

2006-09-28 Thread rj
The last time this happen I used a product called gorilla
- Original Message - 
From: Art Rizzino [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shoe repair


Hello list,

Does anyone have experience with securing the tread of a shoe that is
starting to peel off?  The tread is rubbery and the material that it was
attached to is spongy.

I assume if I try to use contact cement the heat created when bonding would
probably melt something.

Hot melt from a glue gun will be to stiff if I can even get it in between
anyways.

 Rubber cement I guess would probably peel back over time caused by the
flexing of the shoe.

So I have been tempted to try Elmer's glue.  I have not tried this yet, I
believe that I have both the paper and wood types available.

Does anyone know what would work well for this type of shoe repair?

Thanks in advance,

Art


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PVC Plumbing

2006-09-30 Thread rj
I found that it is best to throw the stuff away and buy new. For it is
better to be sure than sorry.
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2006 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PVC Plumbing



 How long is those cans of glue or cement  good for?  I have a couple of
 small cans  and know there is some left in them.Lee


 -- 
 It has been justly observed by sages of all lands that although a man may
be
 most happily married and continue in that state with the utmost
contentment,
 it does not necessarily follow that he has therefore been struck
stone-blind.
 -- H. Warner Munn


 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chainsaw

2006-09-30 Thread rj
First make sure you have the chain going the right direction. I do this by
lightly running my thumb over the chain to make sure the chain cutting blade
on the top of the bar is going away from me. Tighten the tension enough to
hold the blade in place and turn the chain by hand and this will set the
chain in the socket and hold it in place in the bar groove. Sure hope this
is of some help and I am making my self clear. For before I started to use
this method, I was about to throw the chainsaw in the garbage.
smile
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jewel Blanch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:11 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Chainsaw


 I am, rapidly,  going around the bend in my fruitless attempts to get the
chain to fit and
 remain in the bar groove.
 I have changed the chain before successfully, but how I did it beats me!
 I drop the chain over the flywheel, and then fit the bar underneath.  What
is the trick to
 getting the chain into the part of the groove that is under the flywheel.
 The only tool I have when doing this maddening job is a combination socket
 spanner/screwdriver.

 Any tips and tricks that I can use and thus, save my tattered nerves from
complete
 destruction?

 Jewel




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 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chainsaw

2006-10-01 Thread rj
Some times on the newer models, the adjustment screw is on the bar itself.
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Hawk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2006 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chainsaw


 Jewel, there is a screw that moves the bar back and forth from the
sprocket.
 On the wrench that came with your saw should be a screwdriver for this
 purpose.
 You will have to turn it backwards to move the bar closer to the sprocket,
 then move it back out.
 Once you have the chain in the bar, and start to titan the chain, pick up
 the chain from the middle of the bar, the guides on the bottom of the
chain
 should just clear the top of the  bar where you have a hold of it, you
don't
 want the chain to tight, it will get to hot when running. Now completely
 tighten the nuts that secure the bar.
 Ken Hawk




 To listen to the show archives go to link
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 or
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 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] New Wood Plastic Composites

2006-10-04 Thread rj
What I have seen of them, They have their down side.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Boyce, Ray [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] New Wood Plastic Composites


 Hi
 Wood-plastic composites, often used for such things as outdoor decking,
 are one of the fastest growing components of the wood composites
 industry. Some
 projections have suggested that these products, which were used for less
 than 1 percent of decking in the mid-1990s, may capture 20 percent of
 that market
 by 2010.

 Composite products made from wood and plastic are highly desirable for
 their low maintenance and ability to resist rot, said Kaichang Li, an
 associate
 professor in the OSU Department of Wood Science and Engineering. But
 their use has been limited because of high cost and low strength, a
 result of inadequate
 adhesion between the wood fibers and plastic.

 Fundamentally, Li said, this is because wood and plastic are like oil
 and water, and do not mix well. Wood is hydrophilic -- it absorbs water
 -- and plastic
 is hydrophobic, repelling it. A compatibilizer, typically a polymer
 that bridges the interface between the wood and plastic in these
 products, improves
 stress transfer and increases their strength and stiffness.

 The new wood-plastic composites use superior compatibilizers developed
 in Li's laboratory, and an innovative technology for mixing wood and
 thermoplastics
 such as nylons, in which the melting temperature of the plastic is
 higher than the wood degradation temperature.

 With this approach, the new wood-plastic composites can use very
 inexpensive plastics such as those found in old carpet fibers -- about
 4.4 billion pounds
 of which are now wasted every year, going into landfills where they are
 extremely slow to biodegrade and pose a significant waste disposal
 problem.

 They could also open the door for improved utilization of low-grade
 woody biomass from needed thinning of Oregon forests, which is
 increasingly being done
 to improve forest health and prevent catastrophic wildfire. A better
 value added use for that wood fiber could be important, experts say.

 The technology may prompt a major expansion of the wood-plastic
 composite industry into new types of products and uses, experts say. In
 particular, such
 products may help further replace wood treated with chemical
 preservatives, some of which have already been banned due to health and
 environmental concerns.

 This new material is far superior to anything currently available in
 the wood-plastic composite market, Li said. It should become an
 important new product
 and an industry with the potential for rapid growth.

 So far, the research on the new product has only been done at a
 laboratory scale. Findings have been published in the Journal of Applied
 Polymer Science
 and other professional publications.

 Scientists now want to duplicate the findings at something much closer
 to an industrial scale, which they will be able to do with the
 contribution to OSU
 of a $180,000 extruder from ENTEK, a Lebanon, Ore., firm that
 manufactures extruders for bio-based composites.

 A local startup company in Corvallis, Sustainable Industries Group, LLC,
 is also supporting the research. And the Oregon Nanoscience and
 Microtechnologies
 Institute has provided support to get the new equipment installed, which
 also has the capability to produce nanocomposite materials.

 The new wood-plastic composites are just the latest advance with new
 adhesives and materials from Li's research programs. In the past few
 years, his research
 also began a revolution in wood adhesives. Inspired by the way mussels
 on the ocean shore cling to rocks despite pounding waves, Li found their
 secret
 -- an unusual adhesive that could be mimicked by modifications of
 abundant and inexpensive soy protein. The modified soy protein can be
 used as an adhesive
 for production of plywood, particleboard and other wood composite
 panels, without giving off the carcinogenic formaldehyde fumes common
 with traditional
 wood adhesives.

 That patented adhesive has already been commercially used for production
 of wood composite panels by Columbia Forest Products, the largest
 producer of decorative
 interior panels in the nation. All plywood plants of Columbia Forest
 Products have been converted to using the new technology in face of
 rapidly rising
 demand.

 And one of the latest innovations, still in early research phases, is
 cellulose crystals from wood for use in rubber products. Products such
 as tires now
 often use silica in their manufacturing processes, which can create
 waste disposal concerns. The use of wood -- a renewable material --
 might address that
 problem and some day have the nation driving on tires made at least
 partially out of trees.

 **
 This message and its attachments may contain

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!

2006-10-05 Thread rj
I don't know exactly what you have there, but I threw away all that junk and
put in two large metal screws in place of the nut and bolt. The tension
holds the metal screws in place and when releasing the tension on mine, all
I have to do is back the metal screws out by hand.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jewel Blanch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 5:10 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!


 I bought a bow saw yesterday, and when I got it home, and stripped the
cardboard shield
 off the blade, I found that there was a second blade there, which was very
nice, but where
 the stupidity comes in is that to remove the second blade, which is for
ripping, one has
 to take both blades off, and, that isn't easy!
 The main blade is held in place with a nut and screw.  The obvious thing
to do, (well,
 obvious to me anyway!) would be to have the spare blade under the nut, but
it is under the
 screw head, so to get it off, you have to take the nut off, and then wind
a very tight
 fitting screw out of the whole shebang.  Once you have the spare blade
off, you reassemble
 the saw, hoping like hell that the screw goes back through the main blade!
Is that crazy?
 or what?

 Jewel



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!

2006-10-05 Thread rj
That even sounds better than the metal screws.
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Hawk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:39 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!


 My  hand buck saw has two smooth pins with heads.
 when you release the tension the pins pick right out.
 Ken Hawk
 - Original Message - 
 From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!


 I don't know exactly what you have there, but I threw away all that junk
 and
  put in two large metal screws in place of the nut and bolt. The tension
  holds the metal screws in place and when releasing the tension on mine,
  all
  I have to do is back the metal screws out by hand.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel Blanch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 5:10 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!
 
 
  I bought a bow saw yesterday, and when I got it home, and stripped the
  cardboard shield
  off the blade, I found that there was a second blade there, which was
  very
  nice, but where
  the stupidity comes in is that to remove the second blade, which is for
  ripping, one has
  to take both blades off, and, that isn't easy!
  The main blade is held in place with a nut and screw.  The obvious
thing
  to do, (well,
  obvious to me anyway!) would be to have the spare blade under the nut,
  but
  it is under the
  screw head, so to get it off, you have to take the nut off, and then
wind
  a very tight
  fitting screw out of the whole shebang.  Once you have the spare blade
  off, you reassemble
  the saw, hoping like hell that the screw goes back through the main
  blade!
  Is that crazy?
  or what?
 
  Jewel
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following Address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
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  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following Address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 




 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
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Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining

Re: [BlindHandyMan] rattling pipes

2006-10-05 Thread rj
More likely the washer or seal on the ballcock doesn't have  pressure on it.
This could and in more cases does cause a rattling noise in the pipes. I
suggest you replace the ballcock with a flow-master ballcock. Spend the
extra dollar and get the one with the round plastic pipe, which the float
rides up on. The I bean flow master just doesn't do the job. How you change
a ball cock.

1. Turn off the water to the tank.
2 flush  to remove most of the water from the tank
3. Take a sponge and  sponge out the rest of the water from the tank.
4.Disconnect the supply line from the  bottom of the ballcock.
6 Remove the retaining nut from the ballcock
7 Lift old ballcock from tank.

Installing new ballcock
1. If you purchase a flow-master with the round pipe. Adjust height of ball
cock by holding upper part of ballcock and turning bottom for adjustment.
Should be about 1/2 inch from top of tank.
2 Place gasket  on threaded end
3 Place ballcock in tank.
4 make sure float is at the right angle in tank for smooth operation.
5 Place retainer nut on ballcock and tighten
6 pour some water in tank to make sure gasket is sealed at bottom of tank.
7 attach the supply line and tighten nut so there is no leak at the fitting.
RJ





- Original Message - 
From: Robert Riddle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 12:45 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] rattling pipes


 Recently, my stepson broke the floater in the toilet tank. That big
plastic ball on the articulated arm that stops the water flow when it
reaches a certain level. So now, to flush it, we turn on  the water from the
wall valve. When we do this, the pipes make a very loud rattling sound as if
they want to jump out of their mountings. HOw do I fix this?  The nuts
ataching the in flow pipe to the tank and to the wall seem to be tight, so I
can only guess this is happening inside the wall. Is this about right?

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
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 Yahoo! Groups Links














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or
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The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!

2006-10-05 Thread rj
Usually there is a lever on the grip side that pulls down to loosen the
tension.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jewel Blanch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!


 As far as I can tell, the blade fits behind a little hook at the hand end,
and the nut and
 screw is at the other.  I will look again, carefully, and see if there is
anything else
 there to slack off the tension, which, of course, would make it easier to
get that darned
 screw out.

 Jewel

 - Original Message -
 From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 6:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Their stupidity floors me!


 Jewel,
 sounds like one of those things they may do to make it easier on the
 manufacturer, but not on the user.

 However isn't there a bolt that tightens up the blade longwise which you
 release to make everything less tense? Or did you allready loosen that?

 Tom




 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

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 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] water sealing paint

2006-10-13 Thread rj
Jeff,

There is a fairly new product  made by Rustolium, It is a proxy paint mix
you mix just before you use it. If I remember my wife had three hours to
apply it. You paint a area 4x4 and sprinkle on these small chips for a
sparkle affect. They tell me our basement looks great. You can buy this at
Home-Depot or other places that sales paint. The cost is $49 a gallon for
areas like a basement, or $59  a gallon in heavy traffic areas like a
garage. Had the stuff down for about a year  and we love it. We plan on
doing the garage with it next year. The only thing the area you are painting
must be clean.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Kisecker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Handiman Blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] water sealing paint


 Hi:

 Quite some time ago, we discussed sealing a concrete floor with some kind
of
 water sealing paint.  Can someone please tell me what that product would
be
 called?

 Thanks much, Jeff
 --
 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.4/475 - Release Date: 10/13/2006


 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters

2006-10-14 Thread rj
Not Ray,

But you can order them off the net, by typing in Edenpure the edit field of
your search engine. Amazon has one up for bid at the present. The bid is
$305 the last time I looked. The retail price is $397  for the larger model
and around $300 for the smaller model. The cabinet is made of plastic and
has a 60 day money back guarantee, Believe the unit is guaranteed for three
years. They are basing the energy saving on the price of fuel oil.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Ken Hawk [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2006 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters


 Ray, do you know where you can purchase these units?
 Ken Hawk
 - Original Message - 
 From: Ray Boyce [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2006 8:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Quartz Infrared Heaters


  Hi Ed
  This is what I found out about the heater
  Q. What is the origin of this amazing heating element in the EdenPURET
  Heater?
  A. This advanced heating element was discovered accidentally by a man
  named
  John Jones. He had a large old farmhouse that was impossible to heat.
  Jones
  had a coal furnace in his basement. Jones placed a sheet of cured copper
  near the furnace to store it. Cured copper is a type of copper that goes
  through
  an extensive heating process to give it special properties.
 
  EdenPURET Quartz Infrared Portable Heater
 
 
  After the fire went out in the coal furnace, Jones noticed that the
sheet
  of
  copper was heating his entire basement evenly, even though the furnace
was
  no longer putting out heat. He also was amazed as to how long the heat
  stayed in the copper and continued to warm the room.
 
  Jones was so taken back by this that he started to experiment. He formed
a
  company to develop a heating source out of this cured copper. But Jones
  had
  a
  number of children and he did not want a heating source that would cause
a
  fire or create other hazardous situations like creating carbon monoxide
or
  radiation.
  He also did not want his children to get burned. To make a long story
  short,
  through a great deal of research and development, Jones developed a
  heating
  source that utilized commercial infrared quartz tubes.
 
  Q. What advantages does infrared quartz tube heating source have over
  other
  heating source products?
 
  A. John Jones designed his heating source around the three most
important
  consumer benefits: economy, comfort, and safety. The final development
of
  this
  infrared quartz heat source cannot be matched by any other heating
system
  in
  the world. In the EdenPURE system, electricity is used to generate
  infrared
  light which, in turn, creates a very safe heat. Infrared is the safest
  form
  of heat because it does not create carbon monoxide or harmful radiation.
 
  And, most importantly, infrared heat does not reach a burning
temperature.
  After a great deal of research and development, very efficient infrared
  heat
  chambers were developed that utilize three unique patented solid copper
  heat
  exchangers in one EdenPURE Heater. Over 5 years of research, development
  and
  real life field testing stand behind this heat source. It has now worked
  in
  residential and commercial applications worldwide for over 25 years.
 
  Q. Why is it that this quartz infrared heating source uses less energy
to
  create heat than other sources?
 
  A. Actually, there is more than one reason. One of the primary reasons
is
  that heat at combustion level, which is what all other heat sources use,
  causes
  the heat to instantly rise to the ceiling. Therefore, the heat is not
  evenly
  distributed, causing a very inefficient and uncomfortable heat source.
 
  The EdenPURE Quartz Infrared Portable Heater does not use burning heat.
  Once
  the heat exchanger absorbs the infrared heat, it exhales the heat into
the
  living area which is carried by the existing humidity in the air. This
  causes the heat to travel rapidly and evenly throughout a room. In
actual
  studies,
  photos using infrared lighting demonstrated that the heat was almost
  perfectly even from floor-to-ceiling and wall-to-wall. The EdenPURE
Quartz
  Infrared
  efficiency is based on the distribution of energized air, not on just
fan
  movement. This heat is coined as soft heat due to how comfortable it
is.
 
  Q. What are the other disadvantages of combustion heat sources?
 
  A. Heat sources that are above the burning level have many unhealthy
side
  effects. One of these is that it creates dry, irritating indoor air. It
  also
  burns
  a great deal of oxygen in the air. If you remember, when you sit in
front
  of
  a fireplace or a portable heater or close to a heat source, you will
  remember
  yawning. This is because you are not getting enough oxygen.
 
  This dry irritating heat and lack of oxygen dries out sinuses and mucus
in
  the throat, and makes people

Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind techniques

2006-10-17 Thread rj
Lee,

I agree with this statement,. Two years ago was my last roofing job. And it
isn't because I am blind, just old.
RJ



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Seeing is believing

2006-10-18 Thread rj
This reminds me of one of my former  neighbor that would cut his grass
around 8 in the morning, knowing full well I got to bed around 7 am, after
work. Asked him if he would wait until 10 Am when I finally got to sleep.
that didn't work. So one night around 1 or 2 in the morning I cut the grass.
It didn't take him long to complain. Told him that 1 or 2 in the morning was
12 noon for me, so what was his problem? Believe it or not, a couple of
times of cutting the grass at 1 or 2 in the morning, he didn't cut his grass
until noon.
RJ



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] putting up shelves

2006-10-22 Thread rj
Did the same system here. Except I did it with 7/16 OSB board in the
basement and garage. Several people liked the system and did the same in
their garage and basement. In the basement I screwed 2x4 to the plate and
screwed the bracket rail to the 2x4 in a area that is shaped like a J.
Giving me   shelving 8x 12x25 feet four shelves high, or a total of 180
feet. Sure improved the basement by giving us a lot of storage at a very
reasonable cost.
RJ

- 

From: Max Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:39 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] putting up shelves


 Hi Robert.

 You can't make an omelet without breaking some eggs.  Shelf brackets have
to
 be secured to the studs and to do that you need to put long screws through
 the paneling into the studs.  Sue and I did this very thing within the
last
 year.  The best and best looking is a system that is available from Lowe's
 and Ace hardware and I imagine any home improvement store.  There are
 vertical metal rails that mount to the studs with wood screws.  There are
 slots in the rails that hold horizontal metal shelf supports.  They slide
in
 and down, locking in place.  Then you set the shelves on top of the
 supports.  It usually takes a little tapping with a hammer to make the
 supports go all the way down and lock securely into the vertical rails.
The
 shelves, which are particle board covered with something like Formica,
come
 in lengths of 2, 4, and 6 feet, and widths of 8, 10, and 12 inches.  The
 metal parts are painted the same color as the shelf finish.  Hope this
 helps.

 Regards.

 Max.  K 4 O D S.

 Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
 Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
 Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com

 To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert J. Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2006 9:36 PM
 Subject: [BlindHandyMan] putting up shelves


  My wife and I have an over abundence of stuff. Most of it i call jjunk
but
  that is my opinion not hers.
  I have an extra bedroom that is just a large storage closet at this time
  and
  I also have a lot of wall space upstairs that could be put to good use.
  My question is what would be the most cost affective way of putting up
an
  extreme amount of shelving without looking too tacky  and doing minimal
  damage to the panniling. The walls in this house are all pannelled, save
  the
  bathroom.
  I need help before I find myself baried under a huge pile of boxes.
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following Address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links








To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
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Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] taking tiles off of wall.

2006-10-22 Thread rj
Are you talking ceramic tile? Are you planning on reusing them? The easiest
way I found is to take a putty knife and wedge it between the wall and tile.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Angel L Adorno [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 9:38 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] taking tiles off of wall.


 hi  listers can any one tell me how to take tiles off of a wall I am
 trying to prepare my kitchen for some work that is going to be done, and
 I am  trying to  save some money so I want to do it myself.
 thanks so much.


 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following Address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links








To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
List Members At The Following Address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
Visit the new archives page at the following address
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[BlindHandyMan] O E max

2006-10-22 Thread rj
Deleted your message and don't know if you are asking about outlook Express
or Outlook. If it is O E, try this, Go to the desktop and highlight the
icon. Hit the content key and enter on properties and tab to the normal min,
and max combo box and pick Max and enter on OK. I think that is what I did a
while back.
RJ



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The New Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] banging kitchen faucet

2006-10-23 Thread rj
In most cases, it is the seals or washers that cause the banging.
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Blind Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] banging kitchen faucet



  the ongoing saga of a home owner . recently  when turning on the hot
 water  in the kitchen there was like a light tapping. well  in the last
 two days  both the hot water and cold  water sides, but not the sprayer
 creates a ongoing banging  in the pipes  while the water is running. Is
  this the final death notice to a kitchen faucet which  pumps hard water
 for about 8 years? I was told by a plumber the last time  that it makes
 no difference if we installed a more expensive unit or not as the hard
 water does a number on all plumbing parts. . and your opinion of the
 banging is? thanks.Lee



 -- 
 If the ends don't justify the means, then what does?
 -- Robert Moses


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] leaf blowers

2006-10-24 Thread rj
One thing you should look at is the discharge shoot. The ones I found with
two holes about 1 1/2 inches does a better job, than the ones that have the
full four inch opening.
- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2006 11:35 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] leaf blowers


 This is the week that I am going to take the plunge and pick up a leaf
 blower at the local hardware store.  So other than the fact I want a model
 that is reversible with an attachable bag I'm looking for any other ideas
 and or recommendations on what to look for in a quality unit.  They have
 several models from various manufacturers available I know for sure.
Thanks
 in advance for any help.  I can still do the bending but I think this is
the
 time when technology should take over that job for me.
 David Ferrin
 personal email address
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Consciousness is that annoying time between naps.



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lennox Boilers/Furnace?

2006-10-26 Thread rj
Gene,

good brand among others.
- Original Message - 
From: Geno [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 11:09 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Lennox Boilers/Furnace?


 October 26, 2006 sent at: 11:09 AM EST
 Though I, have had, my boiler/furnace Natural Gas Forced Hot Water unit,
 checked out. It is now 18 years old. I thought it would be smart in
 investigating other units for that possibility of replacing.
 I seem to remember some talking of the Lennox brand.
 So I was wondering if any have the Lennox Boiler/furnace Forced Hot Water
 unit and their thoughts on it.
 Thanks in advance.
 Geno



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[BlindHandyMan] The experience

2006-10-26 Thread rj
About 4 years ago we sold our home in the city and moved to the country.
Every since I have the pleasure of doing thing, I normally would not have to
do. Yesterday was one of those days. After 4 years of my wife beating the
blades on our tractor to death, I decided it was time to take the blades off
the mower deck and get them sharpen. So off came the deck and a good
cleaning was needed. So out came the wire brush, plastic putty knife and I
went to work. Now to turn that hundred pound plus monstrosity over was a job
in itself. Finely with the help of my wife, it was finally on its back. More
cleaning was to be done. Than I found the nuts holding the three blades were
larger than any socket or box wrench I had. Didn't want to chew up the nuts,
so a trip to Harbor Freight was in order. The cheapest large socket set my
wife  seen was $30 without a breaker bar. I felt around and pulled out a 16
inch piece set that was way in the back of the shelve and ask her what it
was. Here things started to get better. It was a $30 set marked down to $18.
Found a 18 inch breaker bar for $9 and was on my way to remove the blades. I
sought. I still couldn't break the nuts loose, nor could I figure out if the
nuts were counter-clock-wise or not and my wife said she couldn't tell. So
she got out the manual and said that I should put a wooden block right
there. Well if the block had to go there, than the nut had to be turned that
way. Clock wise. Now I knew I had it made and soon the blades would be
removed. Wrong. Out came the WD 40 and still the nuts wouldn't move. I
sought for sure I was going to have to take that whole deck, blades and all
into the place that sharpens blades. Took the wire brush to the threads and
gave it a few more squirts of W D 40. The nuts still didn't move. The phone
rung and a friend recommended I take the whole deck to the repair shop
before I broke something. That conversation lasted about 10 minutes. I was
just about to give in and take the deck to the experts, but had to try it
one last time. Put the socket on the nut, gave it a few good jerks, and much
to my surprise the nuts broke free and the blades are off and on their way
to get sharpen, and I learn a lesson. Take the blades off every year, even
if they don't need sharpen.
RJ



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Furnace issue.

2006-10-26 Thread rj
It sounds to me that the gas valve was trying to kick in.
RJ


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system

2006-10-27 Thread rj
Lee,

I designed the home for three zones when I had the house built. The plumber
had two zones in place when I went and checked the system. But that is
another story and I did get three.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: Lee A. Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 11:42 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system



 Rj, when you bought you home was it already a three zone system? I have
 heard of that  but in the one  very big old house we first had it was
 only a one zone but it could have been split into three as it was a 7
 bedroom, three floor monster. You needed to own your own fuel company to
 heat the place. Lee


 -- 
 Alimony is like buying oats for a dead horse.
 -- Arthur Baer


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system

2006-10-28 Thread rj
Mark,

Once I ran into this problem and had to buy and install a self-tapping valve
on a line. The copper should be 3/4 inches and it is a job to try to find a
3/4 inch self tapping valve, but they are out there. Most stores carry the
1/2 inch self tapping valves. What I am describing is the valve for a ice
maker, or hot water dispenser. I don't know what or how they ran your
system, but if it isn't a continuous loop, you might be stuck putting a self
tapping valve on the return side  of the heating element where ever it
drops. If you  have some one or if you still can solder, you might be better
off, putting a shut off just above where the house supply comes into the
system and placing a faucet on the same return line just above that shut
off. But once again, is your boiler new, and do you have your expansion tank
hook up to a bleeder coming directly off your boiler?
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system


 here is the problem
 it is a single zone system and there is no perging valve as you described
 there is only a spicket to drain the entire system
 i have tried opening all the bleeder valves on the cast radiators  and had
 several people sitting there with buckets to catch all the water but no
luck
 i always thought the air would rise to the highest point but it seems like
 this thought is wrong
 this is a home i had purchased a few months ago and have been fixing
things
 as i go now the heating season is here and can not figure out this air
bound
 problem
 can anyone tell me if there is such a thing as a self piercing bleeder
valve
 i can hook up to the copper baseboard to enable me to bleed the air
 this is only going to be a temp. fix because i am changing the heating
 system in the next few months and will be adding zones when the change is
 made
 - Original Message - 
 From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 6:21 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system


  Mark,
 
  What you are describing is a close system. If you look above the pump
you
  will feel the feed  for your water system from the water supply, just
  above
  that you will feel a 1 1/4 inch shut off valve. Turn it off.  just above
  the
  turn off valve you will see a faucet connected to the same return line.
I
  don't know how many loops you have in your house, I have three. If I
want
  to
  bleed one of the three zones, I will block the two I don't want to bleed
  and
  leave the one open I am bleeding the air out of. In my case it is as
  simple
  as turning down the two thermostats controlling the two zones I don't
want
  to bleed. Once the zones are blocked and the zone you wish to bleed is
  open,
  turn on the faucet and force the air out of that zone.
 
  Hope I made myself clear. Any further questions, please ask.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: mark [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 2:24 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing air from heating system
 
 
  hey gang
  new member here
  i have a oil burning system which uses hot water to heat the house
  the problem is the first floor has copper baseboard
  and thesecond has cast iron radiators
  here is the problem the system has air in it and only some of the
system
  is giving heat the main problem is the copper baseboard has no bleeder
  valves or purging valves and the cast iron has the bleeders wich i can
get
  some air out of how can i
  for the air from down stairs to the second floor so i can get it out
the
  system has a non adjustable presure valve for feeding the water and will
  not
  allow no more preasure to be added unless the air is removed  any
thoughts
  thanks  mark
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] miner complante

2006-11-26 Thread rj
It is usually some thing with your ISP
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl hickson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 5:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] miner complante


  can some one explane why i get a duplocate or some times a triplocate coppy 
of any mesage i send into this group?

  yours carl

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Delete test

2006-11-26 Thread rj



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Covering a window AC with a trash bag

2006-11-27 Thread rj
I use to use bungy cords  and  tape. to hold the plastic on the A C. For over 
the winter, the weather would get to the tape.
  - Original Message - 
  From: compgirl32 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 5:48 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Covering a window AC with a trash bag


  How do you go about covering a window ac with a trash bag? Can I use
  masking tape or do I need to get some duct tape? I seem to have
  accidentally misplaced the cover that came with it and it is easier if
  I can leave it in the window.
  Thanks for your help.

  Vicki



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen faucet

2006-12-08 Thread rj
I personally like the better grade Delta. They also have a life time warranty. 
But the others are a good brand, as long as you buy the metal
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 2:33 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Kitchen faucet


  Aloha,
  I have decided that after trying everything and anything that 
  everyone suggested to stop the whistle in my kitchen faucet, that I 
  have had it and am buying a new one. I would like advice as to what I 
  might buy that is likely to last just about forever. A couple of 
  friends have suggested a Delta and another one said a Kohler. We do 
  not have hard water. Thoughts? Suggestions? Types never to buy?
  Betsy



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sink trap

2007-01-07 Thread rj
I found it is a lot safer to just remove the trap. It is a lot easier to
replace the 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 compression rings.
- Original Message - 



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem

2007-01-11 Thread rj
Look and see if there is any obstructions in the way. The best way to do
this is pull the emergency cord and see if the door will go up manually.
Check and see if the electric safety eyes are lined up with each other.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 7:42 AM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


 Yesterday I was sitting in the garage when my wife came home, and when she
 tried to open the garage door, the motor started working, but the door
 wouldn't go up.  So after telling her to stop trying to open the door
 because something was wrong, I went back in there and check to make sure
the
 chain didn't jump off the sprocket, and the cable didn't come off the
 pulley.  Okay, I check both the sprocket and pulley, and both were okay.
 Today, I'm going to look for a reset button, but doubt there is one.  Has
 anyone ever experienced this problem, and if so, how did you solve it?  I
 hate to have to call for a repair man to come out, these bastards cost to
 damn much.



 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links








To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem

2007-01-11 Thread rj
You do on mine. Than there is a clicking sound, like the clutch is slipping.
Plus the lights blink on and off.
RJ
- Original Message - 
From: R  S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


 If there was a photo eye problem you would not hear the motor trying to do
 anything.
 Ron
 - Original Message - 
 From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


  Look and see if there is any obstructions in the way. The best way to do
  this is pull the emergency cord and see if the door will go up manually.
  Check and see if the electric safety eyes are lined up with each other.
  RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: brice mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 7:42 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem
 
 
  Yesterday I was sitting in the garage when my wife came home, and when
  she
  tried to open the garage door, the motor started working, but the door
  wouldn't go up.  So after telling her to stop trying to open the door
  because something was wrong, I went back in there and check to make
sure
  the
  chain didn't jump off the sprocket, and the cable didn't come off the
  pulley.  Okay, I check both the sprocket and pulley, and both were
okay.
  Today, I'm going to look for a reset button, but doubt there is one.
Has
  anyone ever experienced this problem, and if so, how did you solve it?
I
  hate to have to call for a repair man to come out, these bastards cost
to
  damn much.
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
   http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 
  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
 
  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
 
  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
 
  Visit the new archives page at the following address
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  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 




 To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
 or
 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

 The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
 http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

 Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

 Visit the new archives page at the following address
 http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Yahoo! Groups Links








To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem

2007-01-11 Thread rj
It can be done, but with caution. The pipe that goes through the coil spring 
must be secured so it won't move when loosening the set screws or bolts on the 
end of the spring. There must be a round bar that fits the holes in the end cap 
of the spring, to hold the spring from turning when loosening the set screw 
bolts. and a second bar to walk the spring  around  the pipe. When installing 
these, years ago, I did see a fellow lose a finger, when he slip with one of 
these bars. So if you try it, be careful.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Keith Christian 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 8:05 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem


  Hi,

  I had a similar problem a few years ago too. I am actually having it
  again. The door is out of balance and the opener will not pull it up.
  I can push it up pretty easily, but there is a noticeable gap on one
  side of the garage where it should meet the ground. The other side of
  the garage is flush with the ground. Last time this happened, I had
  someone come out and adjust the door, but I'd like to do it this time.

  Does anyone have suggestions how to do this? The door is a roll up
  aluminum door and there is a big spring that needs to be tightened or
  loosened above the door.


  Thanks,

  Keith


  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alan Siman
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem

  Had a similar problem.

  One of 2 problems encountered. First if your opener is a few years old 
  there is a plastic clutch with sprockets that break off and cause the
  drive 
  to stop pulling the door open.

  Second see if the springs have broken. They are either on each side or
  on 
  the top of the door running the whole length of the top. This is easy to

  check by disengaging the drive and seeing if you can lift it manually.
  If 
  you can your springs are fine.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Question

2007-01-13 Thread rj
Go to Kmart or Wal-Mart, they in this area just charge for the battery.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gerry Mack 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 2:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Question


  I've never replaced one of those watch batteries. The neighborhood jeweler
  charges alllmost much money to replace the battery as it costs to buy a new
  one s I need some pointers.

  Gerry



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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[BlindHandyMan] Hardwood flooring site

2007-02-05 Thread rj
I was always taught to lay the hardwood flooring across the sub floor.  Here
is a site full of info on the subject.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/fl

. Wood Flooring
Web Links
list end
Skill Level: 3-4 (Moderate to Advanced)
Time Taken: 2 People, All Day
table end

By
Bruce W. Maki,
Editor

You Get What You Pay For...

That saying is applicable to most products used in residential construction
and remodeling, and it's doubly true about flooring. Installing, sanding and
finishing hardwood flooring takes a lot of work, but when it's done, all
that effort is easy to forget.

A comparable product is pre-finished hardwood strip flooring. Essentially
pre-finished hardwood flooring is the same as the material used in this
project,
but there are small bevels milled around the perimeter of each board. These
bevels prevent you from noticing the small inaccuracies in machining that
cause
some boards to lay slightly higher than others. The procedure for installing
a pre-finished hardwood floor would be about the same as the methods used
in this article.

Before: The room with just the sub-floor.

After we picked up the white oak flooring, we stored the bundles of wood in
a utility trailer in the garage.

We chose white oak instead of red oak. Red oak is more common, is slightly
cheaper, but is softer and has a more open grain pattern. White oak has a
lighter
appearance when finished with a natural coating and no stain.

Storage:

Hardwood flooring manufacturers advise that the wood be allowed to acclimate
in the same environment as the room it will be used in. During damp weather,
the wood should be kept indoors for at least three days. Since our flooring
had been milled at least a year earlier, and had been kept in a dry storage
 Etc.
RJ



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

2007-02-08 Thread rj
I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can say 
they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost was 
about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

2007-02-08 Thread rj
It depends on the size of the unit and how far the water has to travel. In our 
old house, we could run any two outlets at any time without having a problem. 
This included the dishwasher, washer, and shower. If this tank we now have goes 
bad, I plan on replacing it with one of the waterless hot water unit. I did 
have a natural gas unit, and don't know how the electric unit stacks up.
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water 
for 
  only a single use at a time. So don't try running the dish washer and your 
  laundry washer at the same time. Other than that they do sound quite a good 
  thing to me.
  David Ferrin
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

2007-02-08 Thread rj
Yes, I had two of the tankless tanks over the years and both were the mid size 
model and everything from the unit was within thirty feet. Planning, once this 
new tanks gives out in our new house going back to the tankless.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  So were you able to run the washer and take a shower at the same time?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I used and installed the tankless hot water heater in my old house. I can
  say they are very energy efficient and the unit lasted for 8 years. The cost
  was about $1000, but I believe I got my money back in 5 years or less.
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:58 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  I vaguely remember someone telling me that these types of water heaters are
  more corrosive on water pipes. Then again, I may be thinking of those
  instant hot water models.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
  On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:12 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article 
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these 
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are 
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit 
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a 
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't 
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of 
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance 
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu
  mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 2046 (20070208) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com http://www.eset.com 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

2007-02-08 Thread rj
You are right, the water heater does have a Pilot light. I saved about $20 a 
month after replacing the old regular tank and the gas company did change the 
meter, thinking some thing was wrong. Why I didn't put one of the tankless in 
this house, I will never know.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: tunecollector 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:50 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water


  If your tankless water heater was gas, then the pilot light was always on?
  If so, was there still a savings in your utility bill?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 4:21 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  It depends on the size of the unit and how far the water has to travel. In
  our old house, we could run any two outlets at any time without having a
  problem. This included the dishwasher, washer, and shower. If this tank we
  now have goes bad, I plan on replacing it with one of the waterless hot
  water unit. I did have a natural gas unit, and don't know how the electric
  unit stacks up.
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Ferrin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  The main thing as I understand the animal is they can supply hot water for 
  only a single use at a time. So don't try running the dish washer and your 
  laundry washer at the same time. Other than that they do sound quite a good 
  thing to me.
  David Ferrin
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dpf%40jaws-users.com 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  
  Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Big Help For Hot Water

  Hmm, I have been looking at tankless heaters for a while now, this article
  is good, but seems a bit over enthusiastic. For example, not all of these
  heaters are pilotless. The three reviewed appear to be, but there are
  cheaper models that use a standing pilot. I have even read about a unit
  that uses the flowing water to ignite the flame so it doesn't require a
  power hookup for that.

  I don't know what size hot water tanks they were comparing, but I don't
  think I would get back 20 square feet of basement if I went with one of
  these. My hot water tank takes up half of that with a bit of clearance
  around it.

  Never-the-less, I am definitely interested in these puppies.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[BlindHandyMan] Water pressure

2007-02-22 Thread rj
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/qa/qawell.shtm



Thanks for bringing this up. Been wanting to increase my pressure and finely
know how.
RJ
Dear NH

My home has its own water well as I live in a rural area of Missouri and I
have recently had a problem. My well is short cycling, meaning that the
amount
of times that it cycles on and off has increased dramatically for say just
flushing the toilet. I feel that it has to do with the pressure tank but do
not know what to do about it. Someone told me that I needed to add more air
to the tank because of a possible leak in the bladder but I am unsure or the
procedure. Could you please help?

W from Macks Creek, MO.

Dear W,

The purpose of a well pressure tank is two-fold. First, by having a tank of
mostly air pressurized to the level of your fresh water system, you have a
reserve
of pressure that allows the water pump to only run intermittently. If your
electricity goes off, you will be able to draw a few gallons of water before
the system goes dry. Secondly, the air in the tank absorbs the surges of
water that pumps characteristically move, smoothing out the flow from your
faucets.

There are two types of tanks. Older homes used a simple tank which held the
cushioning air. These tanks have a standard automotive-type air valve for
adding
air. In newer homes or for tank replacement, a tank with an internal bladder
is used. This bladder is like a balloon filled with air, which keeps air and
water separate.

Over time, the air in a simple well tank will be absorbed by the water. As
the amount of air in the tank decreases, the tank looses its ability to hold
pressure, and the well pump on-off cycle time decreases until the pump cycle
causes surging at the faucets. This continuous running is potentially
damaging
to the pump and can literally take years off its life. A years worth of wear
and tear can occur in a matter of weeks as the pump wildly cycles on and off
trying to maintain pressure in your water system.

To recharge a bladderless well tank, the tank must be completely drained of
water. You may need to rent a powerful air compressor to blow the air out of
the tank if your tank in below grade without a convenient drain. The
procedure is simple... first turn off the well pump switch or flip the
circuit breaker.
Open a faucet above the level of the tank to relieve all pressure in the
system. Attach the compressor hose to the air valve on the tank and blow air
into
it. When air begins to come through the open faucet, disconnect the
compressor.

Turn on your well pump and the tank will be automatically pressurized. You
may close the faucet after all air is exhausted from the system. Be aware
that
you may experience sudden spurts of air from faucets and toilets for a day
or so as the system relieves itself of air introduced by the partial
draining
of the system.

If you have a bladder-type tank, the tank should be pre-pressurized to the
same as the low pressure setting on your pump. Usually, the bladders do not
leak,
so the only reason for adding air to the tank would be if you decide to
increase the water pressure in your home. Conceivably, if the pressure is
the tank
is too low, you could overstretch or break the bladder if you were to
increase the system pressure. You would not necessarily have to replace the
tank,
but you would lose the benefits of a bladdered tank.

To adjust the pressure in a bladdered tank, first decide on the LOW pressure
you want for your system. If you are not changing the pressure, but wish to
check to be sure your tank is properly charged, look at the pressure gauge
near the tank and taking note of the pressure level at which the pump turns
on.

To perform the charge, the pressure in the system must be released by
turning off the well pump and opening a faucet. Use a compressor or a hand
pump to
increase the pressure in the tank to the desired level. You don't need as
powerful a compressor as you do for vacating all the water from the tank.  A
small electric tire pump will do the job nicely. You can even use a hand
pump if you want to, though it may take an eternity to increase the pressure
even
a small amount!

Return to NH's Question and Answer Index



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

2007-02-24 Thread rj
For all the more it cost to buy the jacks pre cut, I suggest you buy them. Just 
measure the Height and the width you have for the steps and let the lumber yard 
worry about it. I believe it cost me about $1.50 a jack more than if I would 
have cut them myself . 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[BlindHandyMan] Web site for carpenter square

2007-02-24 Thread rj
I know how to lay out a pair of stairs, but found I can't explain it. Here
is a web site that will help.
I like, when possible to cut my stair jacks 7 inches by 10 inches and use
9/8 inch  x6 inch decking for outside step. This give me about a 11 inch
thread. And in most cases, I will use 3 jacks and buy them pre cut, when
possible

http://www.answers.com/topic/steel-square



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

2007-02-24 Thread rj
Let him know the height say 4 feet. Now let's say the width you have is 6 feet 
where the step will end. You will give him that dimension 4: x 6:. He should be 
able to give you a set of jacks to fit the space.  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 2:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Porch


  Ok,
  Let me get this clear. If I go to my local lumber-yard/home
  improvement store and tell them I have 6 steps, 4 feet long,
  8 inches high and 1 foot wide with a drop of 4 feet from
  porch surface to the ground. The guy will disappear and come
  back with steps that even I can assemble? 

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:33 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

  For all the more it cost to buy the jacks pre cut, I suggest
  you buy them. Just measure the Height and the width you have
  for the steps and let the lumber yard worry about it. I
  believe it cost me about $1.50 a jack more than if I would
  have cut them myself . 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

2007-02-24 Thread rj
The plastic decking must be at a minimum of 16 inch centers or it will belly 
out. I personally don't like the stuff, even if it does save work of treating 
it every so often.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

2007-02-24 Thread rj
Larry,

They are called risers or jacks. It is the 2 x 12 that you cut out for the 
steps.   Some people use 2 x 10, which I don't care for.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 2:36 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Porch


  Damn... I am starting to feel stupid.
  What is a jack other than the one you raise a car on? Is
  this the entire step assembly or do I need to cut the
  upright and step parts in addition to this jack?

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 12:21 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

  Let him know the height say 4 feet. Now let's say the width
  you have is 6 feet where the step will end. You will give
  him that dimension 4: x 6:. He should be able to give you a
  set of jacks to fit the space. 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 2:13 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

  Ok,
  Let me get this clear. If I go to my local
  lumber-yard/home
  improvement store and tell them I have 6 steps, 4 feet
  long,
  8 inches high and 1 foot wide with a drop of 4 feet from
  porch surface to the ground. The guy will disappear and
  come
  back with steps that even I can assemble? 

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of rj
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 11:33 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Porch

  For all the more it cost to buy the jacks pre cut, I
  suggest
  you buy them. Just measure the Height and the width you
  have
  for the steps and let the lumber yard worry about it. I
  believe it cost me about $1.50 a jack more than if I would
  have cut them myself . 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gas lamp problem

2007-02-24 Thread rj
Any hardware store. Home depot, is a good example. Even some drug stores and 
variety shops have them.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: mardal dugal 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gas lamp problem


  Where do you buy them at?

  Brice Mijares [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Why don't you buy a lighter. They 
make several ones about 7 to 9 inches 
  long. It has a trigger that generates a spark when pulled that ignites the 





  -
  The fish are biting.
  Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] avoiding electrical shock

2007-02-25 Thread rj
Isn't it a lot simpler to just use a potato?

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 11:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] avoiding electrical shock


  Clifford,

  An addendum to #8:

  Regardless of complaints of sensations, instruct spouse or significant other 
  to remove residual bulb detritus by rotating it counter clockwise. IF she is 
  experiencing difficulties in comprehension try the instruction Lefty 
  Loosy.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: clifford [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 11:23 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] avoiding electrical shock

   Dear David:
   One fairly safe way to check for the presence of electrical voltage, 
   before working on your lights would be the following:
   1. dig a whole in the lawn just outside your garage, about eight feet 
   deep;
   2. Fill the whole with a mixture of soil and ground charcoal;
   3. Wet the whole with several gallons of water which is introduced at a 
   slow rate;
   4. Drive a standard copper-coated eight foot ground rod down in to the 
   whole tamping the loose mixture around the ground rod:
   5. attach a heavy copper wire to the ground rod and using insolated 
   gloves, use the other end of the copper wire to probe the entire area 
   inside and on the edge of the light socket and broken bulb, taking care 
   not to cut yourself on any glass that may remain;
   6. Once the probing is done, attach one lead of a volt meter to the 
   copper wire, and using the other probe from the volt meter, check to 
   ascertain if there is any voltage measured from all points available to 
   you and the wire
   7. If no voltage differential is found, you are safe to touch the 
   remains of the bulb;
  
   8. a short cut, have your significant other to stick her finger in to the 
   the remains of the light bulb, while making sure to touch the outer edge 
   of the bulb at the same time If you hear no complaints, then it is safe 
   to remove the broken bulb.
  
   ;
  
   Lastly, if she does protest a bit after touching the broken bulb, because 
   of a tingling sensation, run for your life!
  
   Yours Truly,
  
   Clifford Wilson
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood

2007-02-26 Thread rj
If you like skip the risers or back kick plate and use just a couple of decking 
boards for the threads. I think they are 1 1/8 x 6 inch. I like screwing them 
down. Three screws per board.   This gives about  11 inch thread. I screw the 
boards down tight against each other and the shrink to about a 1/4 crack. These 
seem to hold up well with a little care.
If you insist on a kick plate or riser,  a 1 by will do the trick. I hope you 
have three stringers or Jacks. 
RJ

P. S.  Let the threads hang over the stringers sides   about a inch or more.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:31 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood


  Hi guys,
  I think it was R.J. who was so helpful regarding my question
  about steps. Well guess what... here we go with more because
  I don't want to */%^ the job up I have a couple more
  questions.
  The lumber-yard guy now has my jacks/stringers/side peaces
  cut. Do I need to tell him how thick my tread peaces are?
  What about those boards that back up the stair treads how do
  they fit? Do I nail, screw, glue or all of the above?
  Please understand gang this is all new to me and I am
  beginning to wish I had put a match to the whole mess.

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer 



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood

2007-02-27 Thread rj
Yes one goes in the middle and I found over the years there is less chance of 
the steps warping . 
Just my opinion
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 9:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood


  I don't understand enough,as I'm enjoying following this thread, but hope 
  to ask:
  Why 3 stringers?
  Does one go in the middle?
  Thanks

  On Mon, 26 Feb 2007, rj wrote:

   If you like skip the risers or back kick plate and use just a couple of 
decking boards for the threads. I think they are 1 1/8 x 6 inch. I like 
screwing them down. Three screws per board. This gives about 11 inch thread. I 
screw the boards down tight against each other and the shrink to about a 1/4 
crack. These seem to hold up well with a little care.
   If you insist on a kick plate or riser, a 1 by will do the trick. I hope 
you have three stringers or Jacks.
   RJ
  
   P. S. Let the threads hang over the stringers sides about a inch or more.
   - Original Message -
   From: Larry Stansifer
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 9:31 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Larry and wood
  
  
   Hi guys,
   I think it was R.J. who was so helpful regarding my question
   about steps. Well guess what... here we go with more because
   I don't want to */%^ the job up I have a couple more
   questions.
   The lumber-yard guy now has my jacks/stringers/side peaces
   cut. Do I need to tell him how thick my tread peaces are?
   What about those boards that back up the stair treads how do
   they fit? Do I nail, screw, glue or all of the above?
   Please understand gang this is all new to me and I am
   beginning to wish I had put a match to the whole mess.
  
   Regards
  
   Larry Stansifer
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] gas grills

2007-03-05 Thread rj
Don't know if this a window or Jaws key, but you can find the address of a 
person by holding down the alt key+1
  - Original Message - 
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 11:31 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gas grills


  Aloha all,
  It is possible to find the email address for the person who sent a 
  message by going to the top of a
  message. It is in the From: box.
  Betsy

  At 07:08 PM 3/4/2007, you wrote:

  Larry
  You did not provide your email.
  Send recipe to
  mailto:robertjmoore%40earthlink.net[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  -Original Message-
  From: 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Larry Stansifer
  Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 8:52 PM
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] gas grills
  
  I have a double burner grill and both burners have a temp
  regulator.
  I have cranked this grill down so low as to do Dutch oven
  cooking, baked fish, chicken or Devil dog barbecued ribs. I
  have also turned it up high enough to do a quick steak or
  burger.
  It took a bit of getting use to but now I have made friends
  with it and I love it.
  BTW if you want the recipe for devil Dog Barbecued ribs
  write me off list and I will send it to you.
  
  Regards
  
  Larry Stansifer
  
  -Original Message-
  From: 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  [mailto: 
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of clifford
  Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 5:15 PM
  To: 
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
   mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] gas grills
  
  Dear Don and list members:
  I can not imagine a gas grill without a control valve
  which regulates the temperature. If the grills have a
  regulating valve, but the heat remains too intense, I would
  contact the manufacturer or the dealer where it was
  purchased, to discus a repair.
  Our Sears grill, which is ten or fifteen years old, has
  a whole in the bottom where grease or other juices drip out,
  and there is a wire holder which holds a jar or can which
  catch the material during cooking. It is easy to empty this
  container between cook-outs.
  
  I agree that charcoal still has the best flavor and the
  next grill I buy will have that as an option, if not the
  only method of cooking.
  
  Yours Truly,
  
  Clifford Wilson
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Door latch repair

2007-03-05 Thread rj
What I do is take the cold chisel and put it flat against the inside of the 
striker plate and tap the chisel away from the door jam.
  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 5:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Door latch repair


  OK, thanks, probably a dumb question, but do you wrap on the flat part of the 
striker plate, or hit the edge so that the latch can enngage?

  -Original Message-
  .From: rj[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  .Sent: 3/5/07 3:50:32 PM
  .To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  .Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Door latch repair
  .
  .Some times it just takes a sharp rap on the striker plate. I use a steel 
chisel for this purpose. 
  . - Original Message - 
  . From: William Stephan 
  . To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  . Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 3:53 PM
  . Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Door latch repair
  .
  .
  . Hi:
  .
  . I have a couple doors that don't latch unless you really slam 'em, and was 
wondering if any of you had ideas for remedying this. The house is old, so I 
imagine settling has caused at least some of the problem. Any thoughts will be 
welcome.
  .
  .
  .
  . 
  .
  .[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  .
  .



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Duck tape.

2007-03-06 Thread rj
Call it what you may, but my wife has more use for duck or duct tape than any 
person I know.
RJ
  - Original

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Keeping Grass Off A Fence

2007-03-09 Thread rj
My grandmother use to boil salt water and pour it in the areas where she didn't 
want grass to grow.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

2007-03-15 Thread rj
But just think, the light bulb will never burn our.
  - Original Message - 
  From: R  S Enterprises 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 11:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?


  Teflon tape is a definate insulator. If the threads don't cut through enough 
to make contact. Then light no workie.
  Ronn
  -
   Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Lubricating a light socket?

  well, as the great Chili brought Teflon to mind, you could also use teflon 
  tape like with pipes.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] speakers are installed.

2007-03-22 Thread rj
Don't know what you bought, but the ones I bought years ago for about $30 work 
great. I still use them to this day and would be broken hearted if they ever 
came up missing.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 5:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] speakers are installed.


  There is a heavy contraversy around here about strippers.

  There are automatic ones from cheap tool places that have blades into which
  you put the wire and which claim to adjust to many;sizes.
  Some of them have a set of grippers on each half of the two ends of the 
  flat plier like handles. You put the wire between these sets of sharpish 
  grippers, holding it at right angles to the length of the plier like tool.

  As you squeeze the handles, the two sets of grippers grab ehe wire, and one
  cuts the insulation. As you squeeze further, the grippers pull apart
  and hopefully remove just the insulation you wanted, not any strands of wire.

  These, and other 'automatic' strippers can pinch fingers if you leave your 
little
  prescious haptors in the wrong places, but when you're used to them,
  some of them work pretty well.
  The more plastic on them the poorer they are.

  Many real technicians preferr the old fashioned type that have a bolt that you
  move to allow the things to close just so far depending on what size
  of wire you are stripping. If you get these adjusted properly they do well.

  The kind you find in hardware stores that are a plier like tool that strips
  crimps, cuts, and cuts bolts are junk and are only for the 
  coarsest type of work. If you're only stripping #14 solid wire, they might do.

  I most often use a sharp knife, being very carefull not to cut strands 
  especially when stripping small stranded wire.

  Radio shlock probably has a variety including the fancy automatic ones like
  I first discribed. 

  I've never found anything that does a consistantly good job on lots of wire
  sizes.

  My brother, who is a retired electrician, always uses a sharp knife, 
  and he is so fast I can't even think about stripping before he has it done.

  Tom



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] help! David!

2007-03-28 Thread rj
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. For Tonto is getting them too.
Tonto
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 6:31 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] help! David!


  I think yahoo is going crazy!
  I'm geting doubles and triplets of messages. Last, my onw came through in 
  plural.
  If there's anything you can do, please tweek the yahoo, as I'm not sending 
  multiples and don't require them.
  Sorry for my name on anything of this sort to the list; truly not my 
  doing.
  Thanks



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] RESump pumps

2007-04-16 Thread rj
What I did, Dug a hole to the back of the lot and put in a 3 inch perforated 
plastic flexible pipe. I only went about a foot down and I am in a cold region 
where the temperature drops to below -0 F.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Board stretcher.

2007-04-16 Thread rj
There is a specialty shop somewhere on the net. They also sell sky hooks.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: BlindHandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 2:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Board stretcher.


  Anybody know where I can get a board stretcher? I was cutting some trim 
  pieces this weekend and even though I specifically cut them long so I 
  could trim them to length. Somehow, seemingly impossibly, a couple of the 
  boards mysteriously shrunk after I cut them. I swear! I took a board 
  that was half an inch too long, cut an eighth off of it, and ended up with a 
  board half an inch too short. Don't ask me how. Hell, I was so impressed 
  that I couldn't even get mad.

  Ah, the joys of D I Y.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

2007-04-17 Thread rj
With a little practice and the right files, one can bring on a good edge, but 
it all depends on the tool you are sharpening.  My double bladed ax I use a 
medium file first and than the fine file. On others, like my woodmate, I just 
use a wet stone. On my knifes I just use a steel.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:27 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools


  wil that work with gouges and how wud you matain the right angle for the 
bevel?
  - Original Message - 
  From: rj 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 3:02 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

  A fine file.
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:43 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

  what is the best way to sharpen tools i don't think i'd feal safe with a dry 
grinderr thay run to fast?
  email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] or .com 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools

2007-04-17 Thread rj
A fine file.
  - Original Message - 
  From: carl 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:43 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools


  what is the best way to sharpen tools i don't think i'd feal safe with a dry 
grinderr thay run to fast?
  email [EMAIL PROTECTED] skype carlf16 msn [EMAIL PROTECTED] or .com 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Splash Back Tiles

2007-04-19 Thread rj
Ray,

I have removed them with a wide putty knife, without much damage. In places 
where it is hard to get the knife in, I would gently break out one of the tiles.
RJ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ray Boyce 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 5:03 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Removing Splash Back Tiles


  Hi Everyone

  On Saturday I have to remove 119 Ceramic Tiles which have been glued to 
  Sheet Rock any suggestions of how to remove them without damaging the Sheet 
  rock to much.
  These are on our splash back the tiles are going to be dumped.
  What tool do you use for prizing them off without punching holes in the 
  sheet rock
  Any suggestions will be welcome.

  Ray 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing problems

2007-04-25 Thread rj
If the system is in good shape, run a hose down the air vent and flush it out.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: M. Terblanche 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 1:56 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing problems


  Hi list,
  I'm having trouble where my toilet causes the shower 
  and bath to gurgle when it is flushed. No backing up or anything nasty 
  like that, but still maybe the start of problems? 
  I've checked the breather valve outside the house, but couldn't see anything 
wrong there. 
  I've used some liquid cleaner in all relevant drainage points, but no luck. 
I've used a plunger also, but no joy. 
  It doesn't seems that there's any blockage at all. 
  If I fill the basin and use the plunger, the basin run out at top speed. 
  If I fill it again, and just open the plug without using the plunger, it 
empties very slowly. 
  Looks like an air lock, but don't know how to solve the problem. 

  Any ideas?
  Thanks,
  Matthys



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing problems

2007-04-26 Thread rj
It sounds as you are going to have to put another vent in. Why not disconnect 
the trap from the sink drain and see if that stops the problem. If it does, you 
might get away with installing a auto vent under the sink.
RJ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  - Original Message - 
  From: M. Terblanche 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 12:44 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing problems


  Hi rj,
  
   If the system is in good shape, run a hose down the air vent and flush 
   it out.
   I tried that also. no luck. 
   mailto:rjf1%40velocity.net- Original Message -
   From: M. Terblanche
   To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups. com 
   mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 1:56 AM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Plumbing problems
  
   Hi list,
   I'm having trouble where my toilet causes the shower
   and bath to gurgle when it is flushed. No backing up or anything nasty
   like that, but still maybe the start of problems?
   I've checked the breather valve outside the house, but couldn't see 
   anything wrong there.
   I've used some liquid cleaner in all relevant drainage points, but no 
   luck. I've used a plunger also, but no joy.
   It doesn't seems that there's any blockage at all.
   If I fill the basin and use the plunger, the basin run out at top speed.
   If I fill it again, and just open the plug without using the plunger, 
   it empties very slowly.
   Looks like an air lock, but don't know how to solve the problem.
  
   Any ideas?
   Thanks,
   Matthys
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
   


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
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or
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] flooring question

2007-06-09 Thread RJ
I just had a house built about five years ago and put in ceramic tile  in the 
bathroom, hall kitchen, dining room and burbur carpet in the living and 
bedrooms . I like the ceramic because it is easy to clean and the carpet pile 
is short and does not stain. The only draw back is if you drop something made 
of glass on the ceramic, it is most likely  be in pieces.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 5:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] flooring question


  I didn't really make it clear in that last post, but I am hoping for some 
comments on what kind of, if any, flooring works for someone who is blind? Both 
in terms of mobility and maintenance. I know my preference is for hard surfaces 
with occasional throw rugs as landmarks. Though I do not know if this has 
anything to do with my blindness, as this is the kind of look that appealed to 
me as a sighted person too. Though then the area carpet was more for aesthetics.

  Jennifer

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 3:06 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] flooring question

  Hey Guys,

  I have been preauthorized for a home loan and have started the hunt. So if 
all goes well, I will be buying a house shortly. I am sure hoping you guys will 
have some help for me on a flooring question.

  I really like hard wood floors. Not just the look, but the sound and feel of 
walking on them. I think these are considered raised floors. How do I know what 
is under the carpet? I am looking at houses that were generally built in the 
60's and 70's.

  I had always known I liked those kind of floors, but had not really thought 
about why until visiting the home of someone with a blind child who had built 
her house with those kind of floors because she had been told they will be 
helpful to him.

  Jennifer

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] To Scratch or Not To Scratch

2007-06-29 Thread RJ
In my opinion they are both wrong. I would leave the sub-floor, put down a thin 
coat of cement, lay down 1/2 inch cement board, (3 ft x 5 ft) Put a few screws 
along the edges and nail  it with roofing nails.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: Blind Handyman Listserv 
  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 6:09 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] To Scratch or Not To Scratch


  Hi Folks,

  Had a contractor here yesterday, two in fact, and each gives me their own 
interpretation of something I need done to my kitchen floor, so I'm wondering 
what you all think.

  I'm going to be replacing the ceramic tiles on my kitchen floor upstairs. I'm 
going to be laying thicker tiles down than I already have up there, as my 
current floor tiles are all cracked and coming up.

  Suffice it to say, this is a long time in coming.

  In any case, like I said above, I get a different story, as to how to go 
about installing the floor from each of the contractors. One says that I should 
rip everything up, and just lay down three quarter or five eighths inch plywood 
without any scratch coat, and I should be fine.

  The other says that I really don't need to rip up the sub-floor, as it feels 
sturdy to him, and that all you need to do is apply a good scratch coat to it, 
and install the new tiles.

  As some of you may or may not know, I'm a pretty hefty guy, weighing in at 
around 375, so this floor will have to put up with a heavy weight. Add to that 
the fact that this is the main kitchen for the house, so we're talking a great 
deal of traffic and with a five year-old running around, we're bound to get 
some spills and food stuff on the floor. Hell, I'm not that clean an eater 
either.

  In any case, which contractor is right.

  Can you make an argument for going with the scratch coat alone, or ripping up 
the sub-floor altogether and installing the plywood without the scratch coat?

  I should also note that the scratch coat would also entail laying down the 
wire mesh, so I guess that would make the scratch coat even stronger, but I'm 
still hesitant to do this, as I have had two contractors tell me that I should 
rip up the sub-floor in the kitchen and start from the bottom up.

  Any ideas?

  Victor Gouveia

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] To Scratch or Not To Scratch

2007-06-29 Thread RJ
Victor,

Here is a web site you amy want to read. It may be able to answer the questions 
you are concerned about.
http://www.thetiledoctor.com/installations/floors.cfm
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] To Scratch or Not To Scratch


  Hi RJ,

  I'm afraid that would not be an option, as that would lift the floor to a 
  height that would be unreasonably tall.

  The addition of the 1/2 inch cement board, in addition to the thicker tiles 
  would be higher than I'm willing to step from a living room into a kitchen, 
  but thanks for the thought.

  Victor 



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] home buying

2007-07-02 Thread RJ
There are two banks I can't recall to mind that don't in Northwest Pa. 
Northwest Saving Bank and Marquette Saving Bank. It appears the banks that 
cross state lines insist on this rip off. For any attorney will say that a 
title search usually goes back 50 years. This is a financial institution 
requirement, not state law.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 1:20 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] home buying


  Cliff,

  You just touched on a sore spot for me. At least in Pennsylvania, title 
  search and title insurance are required. OK, so I can understand why I 
  need a title search done. I find it a bit frustrating to also have to 
  insure myself against the title searching company not doing their job. 
  What is truly frustrating is that even when I refinance a house I own, I 
  still have to pay for title search and insurance again.

  So, my folks have a house built from scratch, they pay title search and 
  insurance. I purchase the house from them, there have been no owners 
  other than my parents, I have to pay title search and insurance. Now I am 
  refinancing the house and have to pay for title search and insurance. 
  Looks like a money making deal to me. Think I might go into the search 
  and insurance game.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes

2007-07-04 Thread RJ
Not if it isn't on your property
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jennifer Jackson 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 9:16 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mosquitoes


  Ok, I have found a house that might work. it is not the best location, nor 
the best house, but it is a good compromise between the two. We are still 
looking around though. The think I noticed is that the yard, especially in the 
back, is swarming with mosquitoes and other bugs. There is a wooded area on the 
other side of the back fence and I think the source may lye back there. Will 
there be anything I will be able to do about the mosquitoes if I buy the house?

  Jennifer

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Talking indoor/outdoor thermometer

2007-07-06 Thread RJ
and here I thought I got a steal at $19.
smile
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, July 06, 2007 12:46 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Talking indoor/outdoor thermometer


  I just received two of these devices from the brailleSuperstore.com. They are 
priced at under 13 bucks U.S. and they ship Articles for the Blind. They are 
listed differently on Ebay. They are located in Abbotsford British Columbia.

  Anyway, I thought some of you might be interested. The first time I saw this 
device it was 80 bucks. I bought my first one for 40 bucks from RadioShack. At 
this price I bought two just in case I might need another one some day.

  They come with a braille sheet with some information on it, I remember though 
having a scanned document several years ago with details of all the buttons on 
it, lost it on my old computer, wonder if anyone has that to send along.

  Thanks.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] The door is trimmed

2007-07-06 Thread RJ
Some times there is just a slight adjustment. Loosen the screws and tap up or 
down on the striker plate.
  - Original Message - 
  From: robert moore 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 10:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The door is trimmed


  Thank you all for your good ideas.
  I borrowed a rasp from my neighbor and just filed on the top of the door I
  did not take it off the hinges so I need to vacuum. Now the problem is that
  the door will not stay closed because the striker plate is too low so I will
  need to take care of that. I think I see how I can do that. I will be back
  if I get stuck on this one.
  Robert



   

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[BlindHandyMan] Sweating toilet

2007-07-29 Thread RJ
Today I repaired a sweating toilet for my neighbors. Used a sweat kit made 
up of thin Styrofoam and approxy glue. If this doesn't work, the next thing 
I will try is a mixing valve that will add hot water to the tank.
RJ 



Re: [BlindHandyMan] Gas stove

2007-08-24 Thread RJ
Clean the points, and be careful not to break the insulation around the wire.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 4:00 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Gas stove


  I have a gas stove with the click-click-click electric starter. Sometimes it 
works and sometimes it doesn't. Is there anything I can do to make it work 
better?
  David

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna

2007-09-18 Thread RJ
It sounds as you have a three piece stem. Remove the knob. Unscrew the chrome. 
Put the screw of the handle back in the remaining piece after removing the 
first part of the stem and give it a good firm pull.   For it sounds as you 
have a Price Pfister faucet. The seats of a delta will inter change with each 
other. I also recommend you apply plumber grease to the rubber seats and O ring 
went doing this repair.
RJ


  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 3:34 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] plumbing delemna


  Hi,
  I want to state this clearly so you guys have the clearest picture of what 
  is up and the thread doesn't die in confusion with me short of an answer.

  I have a tiled shower stall. No tub there, just stall all tiled.
  There are two separate faucets and one standard shower head.
  On the other side of the wall, there is a service door I can access.I've 
  been in and I see two shut offs. I see what seems to be rough concrete, 
  and wall studs.
  I've replaced washers both delta and standard before.
  The shower leaks, drips, and I want to stop wasting water.

  So I turn off the water.
  I unscrew the handle of the hot water, as it is determined that when the 
  hot is on, the drip starts again.
  The cold is off for safety.
  I remove the hot handle, and the chrome cover beneath that, (it is a hide 
  the hole cover) and the threading that keeps the cover on the stem.
  Now normally on something like a utility tub, or outside faucet; the next 
  thing is to wrench out the threaded stem assembly at the bottom of which 
  there is a washer. i would then fit it to an assortment of washers I have 
  replace it with some teflon tape and be done.
  I put some vice grips on the visible not and tried to turn out the 
  stem. No go. I tried again, and still no go. I even chipped the tile a 
  little.
  Before I go buying specialized tools, getting penitrating oil down the 
  wall, or break anything
  Is there another kind, or am I missing something very obvious?
  The ceramic tile, the length of the stem, and the tightness of the 
  assembly make me less than confident to try past what I've already done.
  What am I missing, other than a brain?
  Thanks



   

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[BlindHandyMan] Blending tank

2007-09-22 Thread RJ
About 4 years ago I bought and installed a home softener system off a main 
chain. Well the blending tank went bad and that is where the fun began. 
First I called the chain store and was told a tech would have to come out 
and check to see if the tank was leaking. Guess what, it was. Now they told 
me that would cost $65 to have the tech confirm what I already felt. The 
teck told me I would have to install the new tank myself, seeing I installed 
the first one. Told him that isn't what my literature stated upstairs. He 
didn't say any thing, but ask to read the material I had. Well that settled 
the question about the $65 and who was to do the installation. The tech gave 
me a work order stating the tank would be shipped to my house and a plumber 
would install the tank at no cost to the home owner, nor would there be a 
$65 charge for the service call. A week later I got the tank shipped to my 
door around 2 in the afternoon. acourse the appointment for the delivery was 
to be between 10:00 am to noon. So my for a carrier we will call x. Now I 
was to call the local chain store to have them set up the installation by a 
register plumber. They told me they don't do the plumber appointments and I 
would have to call their service. I was told by the 1 800 service that my 
blending tank wasn't under warranty for it only had a five year warranty and 
I bought in the year of our lord of 2003. I explain to her that if one 
subtract 3 from 7 that it equals 4 and that 4 came before the 5. She than 
told me that 1 800 service doesn't set up plumber appointments, so back to 
the local chain store. After about two hours, between the local chain store 
and 1 800 service, some one made the plumber appointment to come out and 
install my blending tank. So four days later I got a call saying I had to be 
by the phone from 8 am to 5 pm or 9 hours hoping for the plumber to call. 
You guessed it, wasn't the plumber but the tech saying that there was a mix 
up, for he doesn't install but just service these tanks, but he didn't know 
what a blending tank was, and asked. That was about 11:00 am. So back to the 
local store I was a calling. I got a call saying that their plumber doesn't 
install blending tanks, just hot water tanks. He than told me I would have 
to install the blending tank myself. well the tank cost $770 and the labor 
was $159 for a total of 929 the tech work order said, but the manager wanted 
me to put the tank in free of charge. Told him that wasn't going to happen, 
get a plumber. He called back and said for me to get a plumber and the chain 
store would pay up to the $159 labor cost, told him that wasn't going to 
happen in his life time. But  did tell him I would install the tank for a 
$100 plus parts. The local chain store ask if I were a register plumber. 
Told him no, but was a slum lord for 40 years, did that count for any thing? 
Well he told me I couldn't install the tank unless I was a register plumber. 
Told him that was OK, just send out a plumber and install the dam thing. No 
one wanted to come and install the blending tank. The manager ask what it 
would take to solve this issue. Told him it would cost $100 for labor and 
parts if I installed the blending tank myself. He finely called his 1 800 
service headquarters and received perdition to pay me $100 labor and cost, 
which today came to $145.29, which I received at the local chain store today 
went I gave him the bill and the slips for parts. Wish I could have seen his 
face went he found out I couldn't  see a dam thing. But my wife enjoyed the 
expression on his face, so she told me.
smile,
RJ 



Re: [BlindHandyMan] blind handyman show talking about light bulbs

2007-10-02 Thread RJ
A potato works well.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Berry 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 5:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] blind handyman show talking about light bulbs


  I heard on your show that some people are using screwdrivers and pliers 
  for light bulbs to remove the broken light bulb sockets or face. My 
  father and I just got done speaking about this and he informed me that 
  there is a tool called a light socket remover. You should be able to 
  pick them up at any hardware store or you can cut off a wooden broom 
  handle and insert it and turn the broom handle in the direction that the 
  socket comes out. You may have to use a little pressure to turn it 
  out. BY ALL MEANS, NEVER INSERT A SCREW DRIVER OR A PAIR OF PLIERS IN 
  TO THE SOCKET. If you are doing this outside there could be enough 
  moisture to make you see the time of day or electracute you.

  Here is another good note. On outside extension cords if you wind them up 
around your arm make SURE THEY ARE UNPLUGED.-- 
  Scott Berry
  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] temperature controlled box

2007-10-15 Thread RJ
One of the things you can do is use a stiafoam cooler, like they ship meat 
with. Add a heating pad and a towel over the pad, place the bread in the cooler 
and put the lid on it. This has worked well for me, both for making homemade 
yoga, and bread.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Sexton 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 5:38 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] temperature controlled box


  I want to build a temperature controlled box for controlling the temperature 
at which my bread dough rises.
  I'm thinking a box with a heat lamp and some sort of thermostat.
  Any ideas for the heat and more importantly the thermostat to control it?
  David

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Killing off little spiders

2007-10-20 Thread RJ
Every year I have my outside of the house sprayed for insects. This seems to 
handle the spider problem. The cost to  do the house and the barn is $135 for 
the treatment. I started it to get rid of carpenter bees.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2007 8:23 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Killing off little spiders




  Long ago we discussed spiders here. I am not or no longer allowed to 
  use a flame thrower in this house so looking for suggestions on finding 
  these little critters and then getting rid of them. we have hung up the 
  old fashioned fly strips and cannot find any spider webs but some 
  sighted folks are on occasion finding these tiny spiders which have 
  bitten anybody but me. must be the garlic in my system. seriously 
  though. how the heck to you get rid of, kill off or whatever these 
  critters ? we have tried for over a year those plug in do dads which 
  we got from Sears but apparently this one brand of tiny spider has 
  full metal jackets. thanks.Lee

  -- 
  Formatted to fit your screen.


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Killing off little spiders

2007-10-21 Thread RJ
Lee,

Use to use the product years ago to get rid of all different kinds of creatures 
in the seventies.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 21, 2007 11:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Killing off little spiders



  R J, $130 is , in my opinion Cheap. We had a problem in many places 
  with ants some years ago and the man charged $225. after that we found 
  out about 45 % chloradane which my wife had to sing for at Agway but 
  apparently it is no longer legal in this country. However it is legal 
  for other countries to spray chloradane, made in this country to be 
  sprayed on bananas and more. so remember to always wash your hands with 
  soap and water. thanks.Lee

  -- 
  Creativity is not always bred in an environment of tranquility;
  sometimes you have to squeeze a little to get the paste out of the tube.


   

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] surface rust

2007-10-28 Thread RJ
Try oven cleaner. That is what use to do it for me.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 5:12 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] surface rust


  Hi All, My wife just noticed some light surface rust spots on my table saw. 
There is an overhead cold water pipe. For a few weeks I didn't have the saw 
covered and condensation caused the drops to fall on the saw.
  I wonder what is the best way to remove. She noticed it when I was getting 
ready to apply a coat of Slipit
  I thought about using toothpaste and a dremmal tool. The toothpaste would act 
like a very fine rubbing compound. I do have sighted help that can remove the 
spots as opposed to me using steel wool over the entire top..
  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] PVC Question For The Experts

2007-10-30 Thread RJ
Any thing up to one inch ID I use a clipper to cut the pipe. I glue the first 
piece into the fitting and  take the pipe to the second fitting and cut the 
pipe even with the flared out part of the fitting. Haven't had any problems 
doing the cutting to length this way. Also I found turning the fitting a 
quarter turn seems to solve the problem with the fitting having any leaks.
RJ

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] How To Glue PVC Pipe #15

2007-10-31 Thread RJ
Eleven: If you have the cement on your shelf for a while, throw it away
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: Handyman-Blind 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:49 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Glue PVC Pipe #15


  published by: 
  Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc.
  © 2004 Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc.

  list of 10 items
  1. Square pipe ends and remove all burrs, dirt and debris. 
  2. Check the dry fit of the pipe and fitting. The pipe should easily fit in 
one-third of the way. Pipe should not bottom when dry; it should be a snug fit.

  3. Clean pipe and fitting with PVC cleaner, then prime with Purple Primer. 
Choose proper PVC cement based on desired cure time (regular cement requires
  24-hour cure vs Rain Tight 1-hour cure for low-pressure applications). 
  4. Apply a thin coat of PVC cement to fitting, avoiding puddling inside of 
pipe. Make certain the entire socket surface is covered. 
  5. Apply a liberal coat of PVC cement to pipe. Make certain the entire pipe 
surface to the socket depth is covered. 
  6. Quickly assemble parts. Cement must be fluid when attaching segments. If 
not, reapply cement to both parts. 
  7. Push pipe FULLY into fitting using a 1/4 turn motion until pipe bottoms. 
  8. Hold pipe and fitting together for 30 seconds, then wipe off excess glue 
with a cloth. Watch that it doesn't creep back. 
  9. Keep cement container tightly closed when not in use. 
  10. Do not pressure test until cement is fully cured, usually 24 hours.
  list end
  source: http://www.aquaticeco.com/

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Laying Down a Roof

2007-11-07 Thread RJ
You are right on the sealing of the shingle, Heat does make the shingle seal to 
each other sooner, But when I did shingling years ago, I found there was no 
problem in this area. I do recommend buying a good grade of shingles and have 
taken a liking to the architectural  shingles shthat I had installed on my 
house when I had it built a few years back. Plus went building my pole barn I 
and a friend installed them on the barn roof.
RJ
  - Original Message - 
  From: Victor Gouveia 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 10:38 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Laying Down a Roof


  Hi RJ,

  I wasn't aware of that issue.

  My concern is that the under part of the shingle won't be able to adhere to 
  the top part of the shingle below it.

  Isn't there a tar substance that is suppose to stick to the top of the 
  shingle, thereby sealing the shingles together?

  I believe this is suppose to happen because of the heat.

  Victor Gouveia 



   

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