The one I just installed is similar but not quite the same, with different
cutouts machined into the side. I don't think it matters. The critical
issues are the thread size at the base and the safety release pressure.
Yours is marked 3/8, which should be the correct size. I can't see from
I recently replaced my steam safety valve. It released steam
intermittently, at a pretty low rate. I had occasional success reseating
the original valve by forcing a larger steam release, but I decided to
replace the part. I took apart the original, but couldn't see any damage
on the seat. I
Brian, same with my machine, as I am the third owner as well. The slight
audible hiss is exactly whats happening, as well as the pump kicks on about
every 10-15 mins. I ended up just purchasing a new valve from WLL and
should be here on Friday so **fingers crossed** this will solve the issue.
Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a slow
consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When the
safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle.
I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the
same issue, I’m the
Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be adjusted,
have you tried that yet? The safety valve fires when it gets above ~1.7 or
1.8 bar IIRC. Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going higher than that.
Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might need to be
Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and
seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve"
(
https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
) its light and not leaking any water. I don't
Great, thanks!
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:
> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle
> espresso gear, etc.
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy wrote:
>
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL,
>
Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle espresso
gear, etc.
b
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy wrote:
>
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 1st,
> etc? Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
> Oh
oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 1st,
etc? Thanks!
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that
> next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous
Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that
next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner
had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts
to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming
Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my
Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even though a lot of us have
moved on to different machines over the years.
Herman
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
brewtus@googlegroups.com> wrote:
As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the
hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still
keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my
pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
Herman
On
Hey Roy,
I’m joining late so forgive me if I missed something that was already said.
I think you have two issues.
The hiss is pretty clear and easy—especially since you only have it with the
steam boiler. That boiler has a vacuum relief valve, and it’s an easy fix.
There’s an o-ring, size 007
I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming
from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking
(lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it
doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring
replacements or
May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be
able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
Herman
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar wrote:
> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
> rotary, I’ve had this
Bill, I’d bet on the gauge itself being the culprit. There shouldn’t be any
pressure showing when cold and, since it does move when the portafilter is
pressurized, it doesn’t seem to be a problem with the connections. If so, no
need to do anything unless it bothers you. Have you tried tapping
I had the same issue with the same result.
JohnB
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 5:30 AM David Maltais
wrote:
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
Cool! Congrats on finding a root cause.
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-8, David Maltais wrote:
>
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
>
So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk
I will try for.sure!
Thx
Le lun. 31 déc. 2018 20 h 17, Eric Christoffersen a
écrit :
> I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when
> I got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
> but my machine's pid has now been working great for
I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when I
got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I
got a higher quality timer switch.
So... try a different house
I did the "jump" test and it started to heat. So faulty PID it is !
I looked at WLL wesbsite and shipping to Canada is ridiculous (155$ US)...
Can they ship with USPS ?
Is there a way to repair it (soldering iron and electronic component) or
it's a in the garbage item ?
Thanks a lot for your
Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you
have circled.
You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated. So if thiss
causes the green light on the PID to go on and the brew boiler starts to
heat then the PID has gone bad.
On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07
Found a loose wire coming off PID and now it's working again. Still have a
problem with the steam boiler not refilling once the machine is warmed up. I'll
start a new thread for that. Thanks again for the help
Jim
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Nicolas,
Yes I am in Brooklyn - Carroll Gardens. I really appreciate the offer. I
actually ordered one from eBay this morning. It was only $17 so I figured
it was worth having a spare if it turns out the SSR wasn't the problem.
Love this group. Thanks all!
On Oct 27, 2017 4:28 PM, "Nicholas
Hey Jim not sure from your name but do you live in Brooklyn? I'm in Long
Island city and happen to have a spare SSD but planning on sending it back as
it wasn't required for the pid installation looked WLL said it was. If you
figure out from the boards it's ssd maybe you can borrow it for
Thanks Ira. The SSR take AC load on both sides and I believe I saw 110V on
both sides( L1 and A2? ) when I measured. I'll confirm tonight. Seem
like the other possibility is a bad PID but not sure how to check it. I did
check the power to the PID and it is showing 110V and displaying the
Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?
Hello BklynJim,
Friday, October 27, 2017, 6:27:57 AM, you wrote:
● SSR has 115V but no green light.
What does the other side of the SSR show? Read the label to see if it takes low voltage DC or 117AC. If the SSR is getting
Thank you! I didn't know that - always played it by feel. I know if too
thick the tape gets shredded.
On Thursday, September 15, 2016 at 9:40:00 AM UTC-7, bmacpiper wrote:
> Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe
> yellow calls for three to get the published
+1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now
able to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more
isn't better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well
before reinstalling.
On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7,
Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe yellow
calls for three to get the published test results.
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 09:38, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>
> +1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well
I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well.
This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it dry for
48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the homemade
washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. If it leaks
+1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression
fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly.
Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the
original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get
You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with
that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some
pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe
pipe dope.
On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65
Thanks Herman, quick reply!
My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll
check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first
before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a
Home Depot or Lowe's will have a strap wrench. If you can find an impact
wrench that fits your socket it will be much easier to remove. The
aforementioned stores also, usually, have those in stock.
Herman
On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 3:56 PM, winnipegger65 wrote:
> My Brewtus is
Thank you.
I put some high quality silver paste
under the SSR. The issue seems to
be resolved, and the machine is
functioning very well.
cheers,
-wb
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
"Brewtus" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving
It's been a while, but if memory serves: PID, wiring, relay, paste, thermoprobe
and new metal tube for it, and detailed directions for converting the wiring.
best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 30, 2016, at 12:06, William Boshuck wrote:
>
>
> Thanks very much.
cheers
On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 3:06 PM, William Boshuck
wrote:
>
> Thanks very much. I will apply the paste
> before powering up again.
>
> My vendor (zcafe - I am in Canada) sent
> only the relay and the PID, and replacing
> the PID turned out to be unnecessary
> (I
Thanks very much. I will apply the paste
before powering up again.
My vendor (zcafe - I am in Canada) sent
only the relay and the PID, and replacing
the PID turned out to be unnecessary
(I guess I am now prepared should that
to pass). Do you mind if I ask what else
came in the kit from
You need to put heat transfer paste. You can use the same stuff that is
used for processors in computers. Thermal paste is available online. If you
don't use it you will probably have another failure. Good luck.
On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 1:55 PM, William Boshuck
wrote:
Can't help with most of this, but the paste is a heat transfer paste that came
with the relay and PID kit. I don't think dilectric would necessarily be a good
substitute.
Todd may chime in on a good replacement that could come from the hardware
store.
best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
> On
solid state relays (of this type) never fail partially on or off.
they are binary.
try shorting out the load side of the SSR. Does it heat properly then?
D
On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 12:41:15 AM UTC-7, William Boshuck wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 12:48:30 PM UTC-4, Bruce
Hi,
On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 12:48:30 PM UTC-4, Bruce Keeler wrote:
>
>
> I would do a bit more poking around with your voltmeter. Keep one probe on
> the neutral terminal and test the voltage from that to various points
> around the machine. You might find the missing voltage, or find
Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV
Hello Bruce,
Wednesday, July 20, 2016, 10:40:51 AM, you wrote:
That doesn't help explain why his boiler isn't heating of course so it's still a weird problem.
Well, actually it might. If the voltage changes to 65 at or near
Ooh, true! I got so wrapped up in pondering Kirchoff's laws that I
totally forgot to blame the meter.
That doesn't help explain why his boiler isn't heating of course so it's
still a weird problem.
On 7/20/2016 9:52 AM, Ira wrote:
Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV Hello Bruce
Well that's a doozy! To sum up:
1. Voltage in is 115-120V
2. Resistance of brew boiler = 14 ohms
3. Voltage drop across brew boiler = 60-65V
If all three of those are true simultaneously, then something else in
the machine has to be sinking the other 55V at ~4Amps. The only thing in
the
Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV
Hello Bruce,
Wednesday, July 20, 2016, 9:48:26 AM, you wrote:
If all three of those are true simultaneously, then something else in the machine has to be sinking the other 55V at ~4Amps. The only thing in the machine capable of sinking
: brewtus@googlegroups.com [mailto:brewtus@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of brewcru
Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 11:43 PM
To: brewtus@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Brew boiler won't heat
I am dying here!
New temp sensor, PID, and replay and same symptoms. $230 in parts.
Only other thing I
It was the two pin package on the top of the brew boiler. I discovered it is a
high limit tempstat, a protection circuit. I bypassed it first, and bingo brew
boiler heats. It also has a little red button which when pressed apparently
resets (closes) the circuit. That worked and unit works
[ Adding brewtus group back so others can benefit ]
Well, I found the problem as well as another one. It looks like when I
replaced the main power switch I managed to wire it backwards. Whoops!
That would explain a lot of what was confusing me earlier.
Having fixed that issue, I proceeded
Hi Bruce,
The next step is to:
Unplug the machine and pull the two wires off the brew boiler and stick the
leads from your volt meter into them and turn on the machine.
After the steam boiler heats up and the red light goes off do you have any
voltage? (First test your meter by checking the
Update:
I moved the steam boiler leads to the brew boiler and the brew heater works
fine.
I'd like to leave it there, but I don't think I can because the brew boiler
pressure just climbs and climbs. I turned it off at 12bar. I think the
steam boiler needs to be in the loop.
So what's broken?
Found direct replacement for the relay:
Crouzet 84134011 *$52*
Packaging is a little different.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/84134011/646-1002-ND/1279976
PID controller a bit more pricey
http://www.bellabarista.co.uk/expobar-gicar-pid-10200125.html
-Frank
--
You received this
I haven't moved any wires, so we can rule that out.
When turned on, the steam boiler heats up as normal with the big red
light on. Steam pressure comes up, big red goes off.
The PID display says 15ºC and stays there give or take. The small red
light on the PID is on steady, as is the LED on
The resistance across the boiler elements should read about 14Ω, not
zero. Make sure your multimeter is set for the appropriate range, and
measure with the power off.
Next steps would be to test voltages at various points. First, let the
machine warm the steam boiler up and wait until the
Forgot to mention the relay LED is always on.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Brewtus group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to brewtus+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email
Just pushed it and the display is up to 50 already!
I feel kind of stupid, since my Silvia has a similar reset which I've
used. Didn't know Brewtus thermostats had them. Looks like I've been
reduced to using the press pot for a month, for no reason, while I
pondered all this!
Thanks so much,
58 matches
Mail list logo