Rob,
>From one 32 owner to another - my ‘82 stanchions screws are not threaded into
>the base, but into the stanchion itself. I had a couple that were bent from a
>move and I had to replace them. Needed to drill and tap them which was
>actually easy to do.
Neil Andersen
1982 C 32, FoxFire
The wind last night was about 12-15 out of the northwest, the air was
dry, and the sky was a brilliant blue with a crescent moon already above
the horizon. Our son was deputized to watch the dog and my wife and I
set up for a sunset sail. It was going to be a nice reach across the
river and
I just now (<10 minutes ago!), googled the width and length of a butt hinge in
SS I needed for my cabin door. The exact size in SS came up on Amazon
immediately.
This was after about 1 our of figuring out how the butt hinges are measured and
cataloged. Evidently it is by the total width of the
I'm looking for a replacement strap hinge for the lazarette in the cockpit of
my 1981 C & C 34. I've looked online quite a bit but can't seem to find a
match, even at South Shore Yachts.
The hinges are 3 inches on each side with 3 screw holes on each side.
Does anyone have a suggestion as to
What’s that saying? One good turn deserves another? Five years ago I rescued
three people whose fishing boat sank out from under them on a rough night.
Cheers,
Randy
> On Jun 1, 2020, at 8:47 PM, Richard Bush wrote:
>
> Randy, you noted about having to be pulled out by power boats; we
Thanks all,
Just looked at the local Home Depot website...they have an impact screw
driver in stock.. ordered itjust what a SS screw seized in an
aluminum stanchion base needs.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
___
Thanks everyone
Randy, you noted about having to be pulled out by power boats; we sail on the
Ohio River, and I have had multiple opportunities to tow power boats, usually
runabouts, who have broken down, and I always tell them, "be sure to tell your
friends that you were towed in by a sailboat"! Great fun!
Hi Rob,
It is best to heed the advice of Dennis.
Use a hand impact driver to get it loose. Then
maybe hit it with one of the recommended electric tools just for fun.
If you strip the head then the only option is a
nice bit o' drilling. Which isn't all that bad
since you will have a nice
Absolutely worth buying an impact driver. I have a little Makita portable and
I use it all the time as an electric screwdriver and impact driver. It is
especially good with stuck stainless screws in aluminum that I thought would be
impossible to loosen. Has rarely failed where a standard
Robert,
Home Depot has some special sales on power tools. I think they had Ryobi
impact driver for something like $39 (CAD) (tool only).
Marek
Ottawa, ON
Original message
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Date: 2020-06-01 22:11 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Dennis,
Thanks...I watched a few videos with the good results of an impact
driverhave a lot of tools but I don't have one of those...not yet.
Thanks again.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
___
Thanks everyone
I've had good luck with a hand impact driver. Just be sure you hold it
tight to the screw head while you whack it or you'll mess up the screw head.
Used to work on motorcycles a lot. Hand impact driver was my best friend.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:21 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
I want to remove a stanchion but the SS screw in the toe rail into the
stanchion is seized .I have applied PB Blaster, 50% ATF - 50%
Acetonetied putting a Philips head driver and hammering it to break
the bond, no luck.
Scared to try torch heat because of the proximity to the hull and
Will,
Sorry to hear it. In early May, had a scrape up as well on the way down the
Connecticut River to our marina in Westbrook. We cut the engine and sailed up
the river waiting for the Haddam bridge to open. Sailed too close to the bank
and tried to tack but sails lost power and the current
Will I’m sorry to hear that. Last year I ran my 30 MK I aground three times,
by not paying close enough attention to the lake level. One time I suspended
myself from the boom end, and had my guests ease me all the way out, to no
avail. Where I sail it’s a mud bottom so the only damage is to
Thanks for your suggestions.
FYI -
The panel surface is clean.
IIRC, the batteries were at about 90%, based on my Balmar SOC display; a 12.7
volt reading
There is a controller - it's a Renogy 20 PWM.
I'll check the incoming voltage at the controller.
Not sure how to check voltage "right at the
My favorite grounding (in recent memory) happened a few years ago when I had
an office staff of non-sailing ladies on board for a fun afternoon charity
regatta. I got greedy trying to make the weather mark and, well, you know the
rest. One of the ladies asked “what happens next”? I
Yikes!
My condolences and hope for a swift repair.
Joe
Coquina
*From:* CnC-List on behalf of Will
Gerstmyer via CnC-List
*Sent:* Monday, June 1, 2020 2:56 PM
*To:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
*Cc:* Will Gerstmyer
How bad was the damage?
Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661
From: CnC-List on behalf of Will Gerstmyer via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 2:56 PM
To: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Cc: Will Gerstmyer
Subject: Stus-List On the rocks
Our first sail of the season -
Hi Will- I empathize with the situation. Two summers ago, moment’s inattention
I put our boat on a ledge and with wing keel had absolutely no chance of geting
off. The sickening sound and feeling every time the boat when up on a wave and
came down onto the ledge is seared into my memory. We
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 1, 2020, at 2:56 PM, Will Gerstmyer via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Our first sail of the season - beautiful beam reach most of the day from
> Portland to Boothbay Harbor, our C 41 topping 9 knots! Unfortunately we
> took our eye off the current when we pulled up
Our first sail of the season - beautiful beam reach most of the day from
Portland to Boothbay Harbor, our C 41 topping 9 knots! Unfortunately we
took our eye off the current when we pulled up our first anchoring attempt
(too close to lobster pots) and drifted into ledge. In the pounding I
couldn't
Hi Pete,
I've had solar panels on our Landfall 35 for a year now (2 x 100w HQST semi
flexible in parallel 12v, Renogy Commander 40A controller, MT-50 remote
monitor). The controller flashes a light when charging batteries and any
indication of a charging problem (battery issues, bad connection,
My panels were pretty filthy this spring and I was impressed with the
improvement when well scrubbed.
Rick
Paikea
Sent from my
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal
Hello,
Could you please unsubscribe me from the email updates?
thank you,
Trevor Kenopic
trevor_keno...@hotmail.com
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to
What kind of controller? What was the battery voltage at the time? Most
controllers have screw in terminal blocks, which make it easy to check the
panel voltage at the controller, which should be around 18-20V. If not,
check the voltage right at the panel. If it differs, then there is a bad
If your batteries were fully charged the charge controller will not allow
further charging by the solar panels.
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email:
You may want to try cooling the shaft as much as possible while
heating the coupling.
If the coupling is cast iron or similar the coefficient of expansion
is different from 304 SS.
https://amesweb.info/Materials/Linear-Thermal-Expansion-Coefficient-Metals.aspx
While it isn't much heating
While yesterday was a bright, sunny day, I noticed that my 100 watt panel was
barely providing any power to my batteries.
Bought from Amazon, this panel [KingSolar, probably Chinese] was purchased and
installed in August, 2019.
I checked the MC connectors, they were OK.
Can anyone share their
I would give it a try. I have never used Mapp gas. You will want to use as
hot of flame as possible.
On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:21 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> You think Map gas will be good enough?
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 11:17 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
>
You think Map gas will be good enough?
On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 11:17 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
wrote:
> Josh,
> I used to work in a machine shop where I had to remove gears off of
> shafts. We used an acetylene torch to heat the gear fast, so the shaft
> didn't expand as fast. Using a slow heat
Josh, I used to work in a machine shop where I had to remove gears off of
shafts. We used an acetylene torch to heat the gear fast, so the shaft didn't
expand as fast. Using a slow heat source will heat the coupling and shaft at
about the same rate. You want to expand the coupling faster than
I used a cutting wheel and cut a groove longitudinally down one side being
careful not to score the shaft. Then a few surgical strikes in the groove with
a cold chisel to slightly spread the coupling. Then it slid right off. About a
half an hour minus setup.
Rob,
Welcome to the list! Correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the issue you are
facing is on the starboard side, where the chock is very close to the anchor
roller assembly and it’s a bit of a pain getting mooring ines in and out of the
tight space.
Suggest trying a thick cut-to-size
I cut mine off as well. A pinhole leak in one of the water hoses a few years
ago melted everything into one solid rusty mess. New shaft, half the
coupler, and put in a new cutless bearing just for fun. The 2018 project.
Gary
1980 30-1 #593
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of
I had the same problem with my 34/36. Garhauer made me a beautiful set of bow
chocks. I cut off the toe rail near the bow, and the bolts they put on the
bottom of the chocks were matched to the existing holes. The only thing I
recommend to make the job easy is to account for the angles
Cut the coupler parallel to the shaft using an angle grinder with a cut-off
wheel. Try to cut into the key so yuh don’t damage the shaft. I didn’t have
enough room to get all the way among the coupler with the grinder so I used a
multi tool to finish the cut. Then pound a cold chisel into the
Hi Josh,
I had a bear of a coupling removal last fall on the project boat.
We did all the usual things first (heat, bolts
with strongback & socket, swearing, more swearing
& sweating). Lots of peering at it with lights and a mirror too.
Anyhow, got a Porta-Power rig from work with a
If it is a bronze shaft it is very easy (as long as you can get to it with an
angle grinder (with a cutting disc). If it is monel or SS, it will be more of a
challenge.
Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: 1 June, 2020 08:45
To: C
How difficult was cutting it off?
On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 08:02 rick bushie via CnC-List
wrote:
> Josh, I had to cut mine off. Luckily, a ready replacement was available
> from Moyer Marine for my A4.
>
> Rick Bushie
> Anchovy
> 1971 30-1
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Josh, I had to cut mine off. Luckily, a ready replacement was available from
Moyer Marine for my A4.
Rick Bushie
Anchovy
1971 30-1
Sent from my iPhone
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is
I think I could use a torch safely. I have ideas for that...
On Mon, Jun 1, 2020, 05:45 Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Heat. You don't want to use flame, I get that. How about laying a BBQ
> charcoal lighter on it? You could probably bend the thing to make more
Heat. You don't want to use flame, I get that. How about laying a BBQ
charcoal lighter on it? You could probably bend the thing to make more
contact.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2020-06-01 3:34 a.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Getting the shaft out of the coupler is
Getting the shaft out of the coupler is turning out to be quite a trick.
I'm using a large socket in the center of the coupler to act as a spacer.
Then I'm using the coupler bolts to act as clamps and draw tights against
the socket. I have lots of penetrating oil in just about every location
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