Hi David,
The last inch / tip on the leach. If the tip is pointing to leeward than
the vang is too loose and your spilling wind through the upper triangle of
your sail. You need to tightent it a few inches.
BTW that can be useful when the wind picks-up / your backstay is full on
and you
Pass through many bridges but the only thing that causes my autopilot to
get crazy is when my cell phone is next to it. Curious about a handheld.
Will try that.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 9:10 AM D Harben via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
... Argh yes! I carry a VHF/DSC/GPS and knife on me
Hi David,
By It I mean the boom vang if that was not clear. Pulling the vang
closes the leach / takes twist out / flattens the sail.
The last inch / tip on the leach. If the tip is pointing to leeward than
the vang is too loose and your spilling wind through the upper triangle of
your
I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the heat
exchanger on my Universal M4-30. I took the easy way out and used
chemicals and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from
around 1 gallon per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute
after
I apologize. Should have looked up the ohm reading as Josh did instead of
winging it. Josh found 2 ohms, which means about 6 amps per glow plug (which
means a surprisingly small 72 watts of heat from each glow plug) and a total
of 24 amps going from the battery through the glow plug solenoid to
If the contacts on the glow plug button are fouled with carbon, it may not be
able to pass the needed current. Try shorting across the terminals on the back
of the switch so you bypass the internal contacts.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 11, 2015, at 9:34 PM, David Knecht via
Unfortunately, it is too late for me, Francois! I have the compass
transducer now to make is all work.
I am surprised to hear that it is possible. Both the dealer and BG support
swore that it would not work without the compass.
Thanks,
Jim
From: Jean-Francois J Rivard
Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of
the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.
I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's
the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two
When I put in my BG system I was surprised to figure out that not only did it
need a knot meter for TWD, it wanted a compass transducer as well. The Zeus
units won't use their internal COG data for the boat heading let alone speed.
One other note about iPads. I recently chartered an older boat
Measuring voltage can be misleading unless the voltage is measured when the
circuit being measured is under load. Digital voltmeters require very little
power to read voltage and, even with lots of resistance in an unloaded circuit
under test can indicate full expected voltage. Once the normal
my M4-30 will only start if the glow plug button and start button are
pressed simutaneously so after about 20-30 seconds on the glow plug I then
press the starter but while holding the glow plug button pressed and bingo,
away she goes...the engine starts hard if I don't depress the glow plug
The power to the starter button is supposed to come off the switched
terminal of the glow plug button. You are supposed to to have to push
the glow plug switch and the starter switch every time you start, as the
glow plug switch also powers both the electric fuel pump until the oil
pressure
A reading of only 12 volts on the battery cable when not under the load
of turning the starter indicates a fairly dead battery.
Bill Bina
-- Forwarded message --
From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com
mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com
To: CnC CnC discussion
Not too many listers chiming in on this topic. Anyone? Is everyone else out
sailing?
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 10, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
John — like most Furuno gear, I
I don't have a universal or any experience with one but it sounds to me
like the glow plugs are drawing down the starting voltage. I would suggest
installing a solenoid for the glow plugs in addition to a solenoid for the
starter. The 2 articles below talk about poorly wired universal panels and
Mike:
Along the line(s) of what Rick was saying about oil levels, I'll add
this. My Yanmar 2GMF manual says to put 2 litres of oil in the engine
after an oil and filter change.the 2 litres will bring the oil level
on the dipstick to the full mark only if I use a Yanmar oil filter,
Interesting discussion. Sounds at this point like there are two different
Universal wiring setups with some having hot to the start button and some hot
through the glow plug button.
On Aug 11, 2015, at 10:04 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
David,
Sounds like
David;
Previous owners, shade tree mechanics, and inexperienced/inexpensive
mechanics often make repairs or modifications that are ill advised or less
than optimal. For example, I recently helped one of the boaters on our City
Docks diagnose why his recently replaced fuel gauge did not seem to
The AirSep looks like it could work for me. Unfortunately Volvo stopped making
this part so is unavailable even at volvo dollars.
Cheers
-bill
On Aug 11, 2015, at 12:55 AM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I put an AirSep air filter/silencer on Calypso's Perkins
David,
Sounds like your ignition circuit has been modified. As another lister said,
the glow plug button activates the fuel pump and glow plugs and silences the
oil pressure alarm. Pushing the start button without pushing the glow plug
button should not activate the starter. I just tried it
In about 20 years of working on boats, mine and others’, the photo is the first
Universal panel I have seen with an ammeter instead of a voltmeter on the panel.
Of course the glow plugs will draw down the starting voltage. When you power
the glow plugs you are running ten amps or so across a
There are no glow plugs or electronic priming pump.
If the engine hasn't been run or if you want to prelube the engine then
you (or a helper) can pull the decompression levers for a few seconds while
trying to start. Release the decompression levers while still pushing the
start button and let
Diesel engines can runaway using lube oil as fuel but it is more likely on
engines with turbo chargers. The lube oil can leak through the turbo's bearing
seals. Back when I was completing my merchant marine training, the engineering
instructor showed a video of a 6-71 running away to
Listers,
I have:
3 Oil Filters (FRAM PH3593A)
6 Quarts of Rotella T1 SAE30 Oil
3 Belts (Universal 300817)
All new, in boxes, never used. Can’t use any of it in my new Beta 30.
FREE!!! First person to send me a UPS Shipping label gets them.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship
I enjoy sailing by what I see wind doing and anticipating the changes coming by
observing water, clouds and shorelines. When I have raced with wind instruments
I have found them useful to backup and verify my thinking but not as a primary
tool. I am wondering about an accurate flu gate compass
David,
I agree that autopilot does not mean sail blindly because the electronics
are working. When sailing to a waypoint, its nice to know that it SHOULD
be compensating for current, drift etc.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 11:42 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
To drill
I have read this thread with interest, but I have a Yanmar, and realize that
they are going to be different, however, there are principles which should
apply to all engines...so, to those more knowledgeable than me, what should I
be looking for on my 3HMF Yanmar? (and, thank you to all who
For what it's worth and if you like to read, www.c34.org (Catalina 34 owners
forum) has some good information on universal Diesel engines wiring. It isn't
all appropriate to our CCs but worth a look. Some common problems. Some wiring
diagrams. Cheers,
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
Midland On
1989
I am following closely! I have been giving Signet antiques TLC, while using
an iPad Air in a LifeProof case. The iPad has navionics chart plotting, AIS
over cell etc etc etc. My iPhone 5 carries the identical software and
settings as backup.
The downside is keeping waterproof power is
Truly. As I found out last year when passing through a bridge. Some magnetic
interference probably caused by cables crossing the channel caused my wheel
pilot to turn sharply to port. Had I not quickly disengaged it, it could have
been ugly.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 11, 2015,
Sanding. Not sailing...
I'm in agreement with dedicated marine units with iPad-like devices as
additional sources of info.
Will be segregating electronics when rebuild projects nears the end. Of course
at my present rate of work most instruments will use virtual reality outputs...
Dave
1982
Nuttin’ to sail, so I’ll chuck my two cents in.
You are correct, Fred. I ran my old Furuno CRT radar for 18 years, and it’s
still going strong with the new owner, never let me down, and never tried to
jump overboard as phones and pads sometimes do. I find that laptops are
excessive power
Hi Rob,
I was told by more than 1 mechanic to be very careful about never
over-filling the oil in my 3GM30F.. In fact they recommended keeping it
between the middle and about 2/3 full level on the stick. The reason for
that is to avoid a run-away engine condition..
Apparently the excess
... Argh yes! I carry a VHF/DSC/GPS and knife on me as I single hand... however
... Getting close to the Raymarine 2000+ causes it to lust after them ...
Don
V34
NCYC
On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
magnetic interference probably caused by
I checked the specs of the universal glo-plugs and they average 2 ohms.
This equates to ~6amps times 4 cylinders equals ~24amps. That's a pretty
good amount of current draw. The way Maine Sailor makes it sound the panel
is the choke point and all the current for the glo-plugs AND starter
Don,
Congrats! I don't have the latest OS on my plotter, but the Ray app. drops
in and out on my boat.
I'd want wind before radar, but we don't have fog on the Chesapeake.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 11:32 AM, D Harben via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I am following closely! I
To drill down a wee bit deeper vis a vis autopilots and interfaces. Call me a
Luddite, but I have never been a fan of plotters directly (or blindly) feeding
autopilots when there are strong variables (wind, current, etc) involved. I
like to be the interface so I know what is going on in case
Key on, buzzer and light indicating low oil pressure, put throttle at 1/4
to 1/2 and in neutral, push start button for no more than 10 sec (prevents
damage to starter and prevents water coming back from the water lift
muffler), assuming engine starts release the button and verify that the
alarm
I disagree with your point about 8V at the starter solenoid. In a brand new
system with good wiring the only load is the solenoid. When 12V is applied
to it, the voltage drop across it is 12V. If it is not then there is some
other load in series between the source and the solenoid.
On the other
Curious what your experience has been re power and bad weather. The reasoning
behind using an iPad as opposed to a purpose built plotter is that the iPad
will be aboard regardless. It’s the plotter that is the extra piece. Again,
keep in mind this is assuming a waterproof iPad case and mount
To run 10 amps through the glow plugs they can not be more than 1.2 ohms, from
a 12V battery. A couple thousand ohms would allow only 6 mA, barely enough to
lite a LED... ;-)
Leslie.
(one of my degrees is EE.)
down the starting voltage. When you
Sure glad I have an Atomic 4!
-Original Message-
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 2015-08-11 12:27 PM
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring
I checked the specs of the
Fred - agree on the dome itself just curious on the reliability of the router.
Also, I would think the dedicated Furuno network is a nuisance at best.
John
On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Not too many listers chiming in on
John,
the biggest problem with the IPad is keeping it charged. A waterproof case
is not waterproof if there is a wire dangling out of it (unless I bought
the wrong case). Be sure you have a 2.4 amp socket- most are 2.1 amps.
Carry extra charging cables. Salt air rusts them out in no time!
Interesting comment - thanks. Curious if that is still the case.
John
On Aug 11, 2015, at 1:58 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I wouldn't install a knot meter - Gps is fine
No idea with the newer i50/60/70 series, but the older Raymarine
wind instruments
Michael — you’re correct, you need boat speed through the water to calculate
TWA and TWS from the AWA and AWS you get from the masthead wind transducer.
I’ve not seen it calculated using GPS SOG.
And you definitely need to be able to compare boat speed and heading with
SOG/COG to calculate
The kill cable broke on my 2GM20, at the engine end. The cause (I think) was
that as the arm moved the wire was flexing where it was clamped to the arm. My
question: should that clamp (square block of metal with a hole for the wire and
a screw to clamp) rotate in the arm. Mine does not. Can
4 glo-plugs ~2ohms each wired in parallel equals ~0.5ohms total. ~12v ÷
~0.5ohms = ~24amps.
On Aug 11, 2015 2:10 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
To run 10 amps through the glow plugs they can not be more than 1.2 ohms,
from a 12V battery. A couple thousand ohms would
Yes it should rotate. I think mine is held on with a cotter pin or a clip.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
Yanmar 3HM35F
On Aug 11, 2015 2:25 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
The kill cable broke on my 2GM20, at the engine end. The cause (I
think)
Makes me glad i have a yanmar! No glo-plugs, no priming pump. Just starts.
On Aug 11, 2015 2:28 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Sure glad I have an Atomic 4!
--
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 2015-08-11
So here's another 2 cents.
My Garmin chartplotter has not yet lost a GPS signal. My smartphones (Androids
all) do, when the clouds get real thick. Such is the value of the antenna. I
was extremely thankful for the chartplotter going into Woods Hole in pea soup.
That said, the charts on my
Dave,
That applies close-hauled. The last foot or so at the leech.
Telltales on the leech are a better tool for fine tuning.
Joel
35/3
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 4:23 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
I have read in several places that one guideline for mainsail trim
I have read in several places that one guideline for mainsail trim is to make
the upper batten parallel with the boom. My upper batten is full length with
adjustable tension, so it is curved. In this situation, what part of the
batten would theoretically want to be parallel with the boom?
A straight line drawn between the luff (leading) and leach (trailing)
edges. This would represent a sail with little or no twist. To achieve
this you may need vang and main sheet pulling the leach tight(er)(ish).
Be advised that the battens don't need much tension.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
David,
Is your main a 3 + 1? That is, top full batten and 3 partials below. If so,
you should focus on the second, or top partial batten not the top full batten.
Upwind, boom on centerline, second batten guideline:
Light breeze - slightly hooked to weather.
Moderate breeze - parallel to
You are correct, Garry, it is electricity 101. And the calculations are in line
with the principals taught in electricity 101.
As a matter of practicality, it does not matter what the current associated
with the 8 volt reading is. The engine starts when you push the start button.
Any
Hi PatrickNot sure a sissor jack will fit. You might have to get creative
in supporting the nack of the engine. For realignment purposes, I would
recommend measuring the existing height of the mounts. That will get you close
for realigning the shaft. I think the hull will support half
It applies to close hauled and reaches and running too (The vang is most
needed / effective when the sheets are looser when reaching or running)..
You should relax the vang on a reach or running but you still don't want
to spill the wind on the upper 3rd by having the leach opened -- Unless
My Zeus2 uses COG from the integrated GPS. I don't have a magnetic
compass feed but do I have TWD, VMG to Wind and Marker et all working The
VMG is calculated using heading info. You have to know where to click
the COG option in the options menu.
You can use the GPS based SOG as well.
Your math is correct, and the high current through the glow plugs (and the fuel
lift pump) accounts for the fact that the system voltage drops to 11.5-12.0v
when the glow plug button is pressed.
But I just looked at the manual for my M35B and the glow plug button does not
provide current
David:
Exactly what model and vintage of Universal diesel do you have in your boat?
In reading the information on the Catalina website that was referenced in an
earlier post, I note that they are generally referring to Universal M25XP
that apparently did not have a solenoid to power the glow
This has been a great learning experience and I think I understand most of what
has been said. One thing I don’t get is why Rick thinks I should change the
wiring back to the original design. With that setup, if you have a problem in
the circuit (as I apparently do) you would not be able to
How many hours do you have on the engine? The sort of runaway you describe
does happen rarely, but the piston rings have to be worn to near the end of
their life (say 8000 to 1 hours) or you need to almost completely fill
the block with oil to the point oil leaks out the dipstick tube.
And
All 4 batters are full and adjustable.I am certainly going to have to play
more with boom position. I have rarely put the boom right on centerline as it
just hasn’t felt fast, but I will do some actual comparative measurements.
Probably comes from my dinghy experience where it is never on
If Yanmars were better, would we have the discussion on the list multiple times
each year about the engines not starting, or intermittent starting problems, or
starter button problems, or crappy wiring on Yanmar engines?
Remember, David didn’t say the engine did not start. Just that is was
I'm pretty sure the Raymarine Wind needs course from an outside source to
display True Wind. The source of course info could be an autopilot or
other compass in the system.
I'm sure Fred can confirm that.
Ken H.
On 11 August 2015 at 20:00, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
I had occasional issues with my engine not starting, so I added a “solenoid
solenoid”. I bought one of these
(http://www.amazon.com/STARTER-SLAVE-SOLENOID-GLM-Number/dp/B004AR1F4E/ref=cm_cr-mr-title)
and the starter button activates that solenoid which activates the bigger
starter solenoid.
67 matches
Mail list logo
