Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Ordered thanks !!

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 11:14 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 John, links there. Second one, not first..,,

Sent from my iPhone

On May 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Found it bought it
Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
Good?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John, links there. Second one, not first..,,

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Found it bought it 
> Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
> Good?
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 
> 
>>> On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape
>> 
>>> On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Don’t see the bed it on Amazon 
>>> Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
>>> Link please.
>>> 
>>> John Conklin 
>>> S/V Halcyon
>>> S/V Heartbeat
>>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>> 
>>> 
 On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
  This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under 
 the hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon (of course…). 
 Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into the 
 caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
 the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits 
 and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
 see any evidence of caulk.
 
 And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape 
 which I source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), 
 “How To Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll be convinced.
 
 Regards,
 Dave Godwin
 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
 Ronin’s Overdue Refit
 
> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the 
> same properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much 
> quicker than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that 
> roll will last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of 
> you. 
> 
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Found it bought it
Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
Good?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape

On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
> Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
> Link please.
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under
> the hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon
>  
> (of
> course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into
> the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start
> removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the
> little bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and
> you will not see any evidence of caulk.
>
> And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape
> which I source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…),
> “How To Marine.”  Link .  Read his butyl tape
> posts and you’ll be convinced.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same
> properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker
> than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will
> last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.
>
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Don’t see the bed it on Amazon
Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
Link please.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on 
Amazon
 (of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end 
into the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start 
removing the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little 
bits and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
see any evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll 
be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you.

I am 100% sold on butyl.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+



Sent from Samsung tablet.


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Clean the excess off its easy to do

On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:23 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve learned about butyl tape from my C&C and have been happy with its
> waterproofing, but I have an issue with butyl where I would welcome
> advice.
>
> I tend to try to be very careful with waterproofing any deck penetrations
> and end up with a bit of butyl tape exposed around the edges of the
> hardware, handrail, etc where it meets the deck.  Someone eventually sits
> on or near the hardware and manages to get a bit of tape on his or more
> likely, her, clothes.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Bailey White
> C&C 36
> Lake Lanier
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

When I removed the Genoa Tracks on my 39, they had been bedded in Silicone. 
Never leaked. Put the new Harken Tracks down with Butyl, never leaked, but the 
heat would make the butyl weep out, which requires cleaning occasionally.

My Dorade boxes were originally bedded with silicone, and they were stuck as 
aggressively as 5200. That would have been 1973.  Interestingly, the teak bungs 
were also set in silicone.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of cscheaffer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 11:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cscheaffer
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape

 

I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is 
best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C during 
the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody 
have opinions on Butyl being better?

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

An observation: For the hardware re-bedding I used new stainless steel hardware 
for everything except some of the larger and fewer number of bolts, i.e., 
primary and secondary winches and the bow stem head fitting. Since they were 
encapsulated with old butyl I simply immersed them in a container of mineral 
spirits. This pretty much dissolved all traces of the butyl. A quick flick with 
a small wire brush and they were like new.

That said, there is the containment/time factor involved so probably not a very 
suitable method for what you encountered.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FYI, the butyl under my deck fills that I just removed was thin, hard as a 
> rock, and embedded into the non-skid.  I tried removing with acetone, but 
> progress was very slow.  I then used a pick to scrape the butyl out of the 
> non-skid nooks and crannies, which worked but is tedious.  I finished with a 
> little acetone and one of those small wire brushes that look like a big 
> toothbrush.  Good as new.
>  

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

FYI, the butyl under my deck fills that I just removed was thin, hard as a 
rock, and embedded into the non-skid.  I tried removing with acetone, but 
progress was very slow.  I then used a pick to scrape the butyl out of the 
non-skid nooks and crannies, which worked but is tedious.  I finished with a 
little acetone and one of those small wire brushes that look like a big 
toothbrush.  Good as new.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 9:23 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin ; bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

 

This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon 
<https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Silicone-Caulking-corners-joints/dp/B003N3KQ6E>  
(of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into 
the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits and 
pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not see any 
evidence of caulk.

 

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link <https://marinehowto.com> .  Read his butyl tape posts and 
you’ll be convinced.

 

Regards,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 





On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you. 

 

I am 100% sold on butyl.

 

Bruce Whitmore 

1994 C&C 37/40+

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

By the way, I just removed two deck fills (which was not easy) which were 
bedded with butyl tape almost 45 years ago.  The balsa core was dry as a bone.  
Remarkable.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 10:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

 

Butyl tape was used by the factory on my boat in almost all junctions.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

s/v Rainy Days

C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)

(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> 





On May 21, 2020, at 11:46 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is 
best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C during 
the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody 
have opinions on Butyl being better?

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Not so subtle difference, 5200 is an adhesive, NOT a sealant.

I use 5200 to glue things PERMANENTLY to boats.  For instance, gluing a
block of teak to fiberglass so I can screw something to it.

 Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 8:10 AM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Do not use 5200 on anything you don't want to be permanent.
>
> --
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Butyl tape was used by the factory on my boat in almost all junctions.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 21, 2020, at 11:46 PM, cscheaffer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C 
> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  
> Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

LOL.  I actually thought about that as I was drafting the post.  The boat
owner's decision of what flexes and what doesn't may be more difficult than
the decision of which sealant to use.  :)

Hardware fittings under intermittent compression/tension loading (chain
plates, deck mounted halyard turning blocks) are more likely to flex than
fittings under shear loads (rope clutches, winches).

Overboring and epoxy filling the deck penetrations for hardware under
compression/tension loading somewhat reduces the potential for flexing.
The thickened epoxy "plug" shouldn't compress but the deck adjacent might
still compress.

Also, the type of material should be considered.  For instance, I don't
think 4200, a polyurethane, sticks that well to metal hardware.  Sealing
metal hardware is better with a polysulfide sealant.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 8:33 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, that made me laugh. In a good way of course. ;-)
>
> There probably isn’t a section of deck on my boat that doesn’t flex. I’ll
> send you a recent picture of me using a hydraulic jack to raise the deck by
> the galley sink and the nav station so that I could re-install the two S.S.
> poles that tie the deck to internal cabinetry. And don’t get me started on
> the three T-shaped tangs for the forward cabin and main bulkheads.
>
> I could on about the fact that the v-berth door hasn’t closed in 25
> years...
>
> Cheers!
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 8:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> My philosophy is if there's a chance the deck hardware may flex, use
> butyl.  If not use LifeSeal.  For instance, I bedded Touche's chain plates
> with butyl.  The winches got LifeSeal.
>
> Bed-It butyl is the best.
>
> I quit using 4200 years ago after getting several partially cured tubes.
> I much prefer LifeSeal.
>
> For general reference on sealant usage, look at this chart:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dennis, that made me laugh. In a good way of course. ;-)

There probably isn’t a section of deck on my boat that doesn’t flex. I’ll send 
you a recent picture of me using a hydraulic jack to raise the deck by the 
galley sink and the nav station so that I could re-install the two S.S. poles 
that tie the deck to internal cabinetry. And don’t get me started on the three 
T-shaped tangs for the forward cabin and main bulkheads.

I could on about the fact that the v-berth door hasn’t closed in 25 years...

Cheers!
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 8:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My philosophy is if there's a chance the deck hardware may flex, use butyl.  
> If not use LifeSeal.  For instance, I bedded Touche's chain plates with 
> butyl.  The winches got LifeSeal.
> 
> Bed-It butyl is the best.
> 
> I quit using 4200 years ago after getting several partially cured tubes.  I 
> much prefer LifeSeal.
> 
> For general reference on sealant usage, look at this chart:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID- 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon 
 
(of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into 
the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits and 
pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not see any 
evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link .  Read his butyl tape posts and 
you’ll be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
> properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
> than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
> last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you. 
> 
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

you can get the bed-It butyl here. https://shop.marinehowto.com/products

-- Original Message --
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 8:57:06 -0400


 I have not tried the "Bed it" brand recommended by others, but I will when I 
find some. The stuff sold by Westmarine is useable but not the same quality as 
that used on our boats originally. Forget about the Homedepot stuff, tried that 
as well. 

I left a roll of butyl tape in the boat in a cupboard under the side deck and 
the heat from the sun melted it so that it does not release from the paper. 
Makes it a PITA to use when that happens. Store it in a more or less cool 
place. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
C&C36  

 cscheaffer via CnC-List  wrote: 
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is 
best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C during 
the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody 
have opinions on Butyl being better?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Do not use 5200 on anything you don't want to be permanent.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 1:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape


If I may paraphrase expert COVID advice:
Always use butyl tape/caulk where appropriate, if not then use 3M 4200. In
all other cases 4000 UV or 5200 is best.

I trust this will serve you best.

 Humble servant regards, Russ



At 08:45 PM 5/21/2020, you wrote:
>I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced 
>this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen 
>by C&C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 
>and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

I’ve been using the 3M version 
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Weatherban-Ribbon-Sealant-PF5423/?N=5002385+3293241535&preselect=3293786499&rt=rud
 

 .  I replaced my genoa tracks 11 years ago and used this.   No leaks thus far. 
  


Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On May 22, 2020, at 8:57 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have not tried the "Bed it" brand recommended by others, but I will when I 
> find some. The stuff sold by Westmarine is useable but not the same quality 
> as that used on our boats originally. Forget about the Homedepot stuff, tried 
> that as well. 
> 
> I left a roll of butyl tape in the boat in a cupboard under the side deck and 
> the heat from the sun melted it so that it does not release from the paper. 
> Makes it a PITA to use when that happens. Store it in a more or less cool 
> place. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> C&C36  
> 
>  cscheaffer via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C 
> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  
> Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung 
> Galaxy smartphone
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

 I have not tried the "Bed it" brand recommended by others, but I will when I 
find some. The stuff sold by Westmarine is useable but not the same quality as 
that used on our boats originally. Forget about the Homedepot stuff, tried that 
as well. 

I left a roll of butyl tape in the boat in a cupboard under the side deck and 
the heat from the sun melted it so that it does not release from the paper. 
Makes it a PITA to use when that happens. Store it in a more or less cool 
place. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
C&C36  

 cscheaffer via CnC-List  wrote: 
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is 
best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C during 
the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody 
have opinions on Butyl being better?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy 
smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My philosophy is if there's a chance the deck hardware may flex, use
butyl.  If not use LifeSeal.  For instance, I bedded Touche's chain plates
with butyl.  The winches got LifeSeal.

Bed-It butyl is the best.

I quit using 4200 years ago after getting several partially cured tubes.  I
much prefer LifeSeal.

For general reference on sealant usage, look at this chart:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 10:46 PM cscheaffer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced
> this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by
> C&C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and
> 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

I’ve learned about butyl tape from my C&C and have been happy with its 
waterproofing, but I have an issue with butyl where I would welcome advice.  

I tend to try to be very careful with waterproofing any deck penetrations and 
end up with a bit of butyl tape exposed around the edges of the hardware, 
handrail, etc where it meets the deck.  Someone eventually sits on or near the 
hardware and manages to get a bit of tape on his or more likely, her, clothes.  

Any advice?

Bailey White
C&C 36
Lake Lanier
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
properties as the original C&C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you. I am 100% 
sold on butyl.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/22/20  7:36 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Dave Godwin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Butyl tape As a requirement for repairing and repainting the deck and 
cabin top I have pulled every piece of hardware on my 1982 C&C 37 with the 
exception of the toe-rail. Virtually every item was installed with butyl. When 
we bought the boat many years ago I would add hardware or replace hardware like 
any obsessive boat owner would do and I would use sealants from 3M, Boatlife 
and Sika. Every item sealed with butyl was dry and leak-free. Those items that 
I installed with the other products eventually failed and/or leaked. Given my 
general ineptitude those failures were probably my fault. But...With the fact 
that the deck had almost no wet core, it was an easy decision to re-bed with 
the same material. I have re-bedded all of the hardware with butyl except where 
the manufacturer recommends a specific sealant, the plastic Beckson opening 
ports coming to mind.One thing that continually runs through my mind as I go 
about the process of re-bedding using butyl is the incredible amount of effort 
and time required to apply it. Were I a boat builder looking to keep labour 
costs down, I would probably be using tube sealants.My $0.02 (US).Regards,
Dave Godwin1982 C&C 37 - RoninReedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit

On May 22, 2020, at 6:12 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original 
hardware (gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not failed. 
The parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The ones using 
4200 or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is brittle, yet 
they don’t always come off easily unless completely failed (cutting under the 
part is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it back together. 
NathanS/V WisperLynn MA- -On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via 
CnC-List  wrote:
C&C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat,
  and while it had failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I
  used on a hatch failed after 2 years, so both can fail...  The
  hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no problem.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  I'm rebedding deck
  hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this is
  best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen
  by C&C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I
  like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being
  better?
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
Sent from my
  Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
  
  
  
  
  
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___Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one 
is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

As a requirement for repairing and repainting the deck and cabin top I have 
pulled every piece of hardware on my 1982 C&C 37 with the exception of the 
toe-rail. Virtually every item was installed with butyl. When we bought the 
boat many years ago I would add hardware or replace hardware like any obsessive 
boat owner would do and I would use sealants from 3M, Boatlife and Sika. 

Every item sealed with butyl was dry and leak-free. Those items that I 
installed with the other products eventually failed and/or leaked. Given my 
general ineptitude those failures were probably my fault. But...

With the fact that the deck had almost no wet core, it was an easy decision to 
re-bed with the same material. I have re-bedded all of the hardware with butyl 
except where the manufacturer recommends a specific sealant, the plastic 
Beckson opening ports coming to mind.

One thing that continually runs through my mind as I go about the process of 
re-bedding using butyl is the incredible amount of effort and time required to 
apply it. Were I a boat builder looking to keep labour costs down, I would 
probably be using tube sealants.

My $0.02 (US).

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 6:12 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original 
> hardware (gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not 
> failed. The parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The 
> ones using 4200 or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is 
> brittle, yet they don’t always come off easily unless completely failed 
> (cutting under the part is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it 
> back together. 
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> Lynn MA
> 
> - -
>> On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> C&C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat, and while it had 
>> failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I used on a hatch failed after 2 
>> years, so both can fail...  The hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no 
>> problem.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced 
>>> this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by 
>>> C&C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 
>>> 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original hardware 
(gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not failed. The 
parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The ones using 4200 
or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is brittle, yet they 
don’t always come off easily unless completely failed (cutting under the part 
is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it back together. 
Nathan
S/V Wisper
Lynn MA

- -
> On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> C&C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat, and while it had 
> failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I used on a hatch failed after 2 
> years, so both can fail...  The hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no 
> problem.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
>> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C 
>> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv. 
>>  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

C&C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat, and while it 
had failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I used on a hatch failed 
after 2 years, so both can fail...  The hatch is on with butyl now, for 
6 years, no problem.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer via CnC-List wrote:
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not 
convinced this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was 
not chosen by C&C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I 
like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?




Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

If I may paraphrase expert COVID advice:
Always use butyl tape/caulk where appropriate, if not then use 3M 
4200. In all other cases 4000 UV or 5200 is best.


I trust this will serve you best.

Humble servant regards, Russ



At 08:45 PM 5/21/2020, you wrote:
I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not 
convinced this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it 
was not chosen by C&C during the build except for the hull deck 
joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl 
being better?





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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Jeremy Dinsel via CnC-List]

Yes? I’ve used it on all of the deck bolts along the toe rail. Any single one 
that leaks gets a little wrap of butyl tape and then tightened back into place 
(I don’t turn the screw, just tighten the nut). It seems to squeeze into the 
space very well. This has held up for a season or two. Will it hold longer? I 
suppose only time will tell. (It does clean up well and easily.)

I do use 3M 4200 on other projects including winch bolts. Given that they’re 
very similar to a toe rail bolt, I do find myself wondering why. 

-j

> On May 21, 2020, at 20:45, cscheaffer  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced this 
> is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by C&C 
> during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 4000uv.  
> Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Well, the one downside I can think of is, aplying it can be very tedious.  All 
those thru bolts on the hatches adding the extra bead to the top and bottom of 
the flange at each bolt and having to penetrate the tape at each hole for the 
bolt was painstaking and time consuming.  But it beats leaks! 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/8/17  7:17 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better? 
The only trouble with Butyl tape is that it seals better, lasts longer, is 
easier to remove, easier to clean up and cheaper.  Other than that it is OK.  😀
GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Yes, Butyl is ( in many people's) opinion still the best.  What you are 
probably seeing is that even after decades, butyl sealer still remains pliable. 
 Bed-It really seems to be the best, having used RV and black windshield butyl 
tapes.



Kindest Regards,



Bruce

847.404.5092



Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.



> On May 8, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:

>

> I currently have the hood (if that's the correct term) removed from my 
> sliding companionway hatch, and cleaned up ready for replacement. Clearly the 
> original sealer was butyl.    Is butyl tape still considered the best for 
> this job (and if so which brand - if all butyl is not equal).

>

> Also, the hood was secured with s/s screws. Assuming there is reasonable 
> access (CandC 35III) should I consider using s/s bolts with nuts?

>

> All advice gratefully received!

>

> --

> Jonathan

> Indigo C&C 35III

> SOUTHPORT CT

>

> ___

>

> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

>

> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

The only trouble with Butyl tape is that it seals better, lasts longer, is
easier to remove, easier to clean up and cheaper.  Other than that it is
OK.  😀

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, May 8, 2017 at 6:14 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes, Butyl is ( in many people's) opinion still the best.  What you are
> probably seeing is that even after decades, butyl sealer still remains
> pliable.  Bed-It really seems to be the best, having used RV and black
> windshield butyl tapes.
>
> Kindest Regards,
>
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
>
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
> > On May 8, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > I currently have the hood (if that's the correct term) removed from my
> sliding companionway hatch, and cleaned up ready for replacement. Clearly
> the original sealer was butyl.Is butyl tape still considered the best
> for this job (and if so which brand - if all butyl is not equal).
> >
> > Also, the hood was secured with s/s screws. Assuming there is reasonable
> access (CandC 35III) should I consider using s/s bolts with nuts?
> >
> > All advice gratefully received!
> >
> > --
> > Jonathan
> > Indigo C&C 35III
> > SOUTHPORT CT
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Butyl is all I use now.   I get it from compass marine that's the bed-it stuff 
Bryce is talking about. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/8/17  6:14 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bruce Whitmore  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better? 
Yes, Butyl is ( in many people's) opinion still the best.  What you are 
probably seeing is that even after decades, butyl sealer still remains pliable. 
 Bed-It really seems to be the best, having used RV and black windshield butyl 
tapes.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On May 8, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I currently have the hood (if that's the correct term) removed from my 
> sliding companionway hatch, and cleaned up ready for replacement. Clearly the 
> original sealer was butyl.    Is butyl tape still considered the best for 
> this job (and if so which brand - if all butyl is not equal). 
> 
> Also, the hood was secured with s/s screws. Assuming there is reasonable 
> access (CandC 35III) should I consider using s/s bolts with nuts?
> 
> All advice gratefully received!
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape or is there something better?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Yes, Butyl is ( in many people's) opinion still the best.  What you are 
probably seeing is that even after decades, butyl sealer still remains pliable. 
 Bed-It really seems to be the best, having used RV and black windshield butyl 
tapes.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On May 8, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I currently have the hood (if that's the correct term) removed from my 
> sliding companionway hatch, and cleaned up ready for replacement. Clearly the 
> original sealer was butyl.Is butyl tape still considered the best for 
> this job (and if so which brand - if all butyl is not equal). 
> 
> Also, the hood was secured with s/s screws. Assuming there is reasonable 
> access (CandC 35III) should I consider using s/s bolts with nuts?
> 
> All advice gratefully received!
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the responses on butyl tape--looks like the tape to use is the 
Bed-It, although I wish it was 1 inch wide.


Charlie Nelson


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: cenelson 
Sent: Tue, Feb 9, 2016 10:30 am
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape



I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
 
Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?
 
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC
 
 
 
 
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Mike Amirault via CnC-List]

Apple auto glass, another good choice. I’m sure they use quality products.___

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I buy mine from Apple Auto Glass

-Original Message-
From: "Mike Amirault via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎02-‎09 4:39 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Mike Amirault" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

I bought my Butyl tape at in industrial supplier in Dartmouth, NS, Arrow 
Construction. It is grey, 1” wide and it seems to be just as good as any other 
brand that I have seen and WAY cheaper than the “marine” brands. I used it to 
rebed hatches and deck hardware on my C&C33ii, no leaks.  Having said that, 
it’s only been there for 4 yrs but, so far, it is just as sticky as when it was 
new.  For the guys in the Halifax/Dartmouth area, they also sell Dow 795 for 
about 8 bucks a tube.
 
Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
St Margarets Bay SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Mike Amirault via CnC-List]

I bought my Butyl tape at in industrial supplier in Dartmouth, NS, Arrow 
Construction. It is grey, 1” wide and it seems to be just as good as any other 
brand that I have seen and WAY cheaper than the “marine” brands. I used it to 
rebed hatches and deck hardware on my C&C33ii, no leaks.  Having said that, 
it’s only been there for 4 yrs but, so far, it is just as sticky as when it was 
new.  For the guys in the Halifax/Dartmouth area, they also sell Dow 795 for 
about 8 bucks a tube.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
St Margarets Bay SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Appropriate time for this discussion and advice, since I just purchased a roll 
of the other stuff from $$ West Marine. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

 Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote: 
> I tried another Butyl brand besides "Bed it" and I regret it. I have since
> used "Bed it". You can find it elsewhere than Mainesail and Hamilton, but I
> found price to be about the same. I went with Mainsail.
> 
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 8:22 AM Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> > Thanks for the correction. I meant Hamiliton, but typed Defender!
> >
> >
> > Bill Bina
> >
> > On 2/9/2016 11:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
> >
> > Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as
> > I can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
> > tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
> > identical product).
> >
> > I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine store
> > I found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships min two. I
> > assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him though, since
> > he's the inventor of it.
> >
> > http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html
> >
> > On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:
> >
> >> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Cc:
> >> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> >> ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender
> >> carries or you can get it from:
> >>
> >> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> >>
> >> Bill Bina


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I tried another Butyl brand besides "Bed it" and I regret it. I have since
used "Bed it". You can find it elsewhere than Mainesail and Hamilton, but I
found price to be about the same. I went with Mainsail.

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 8:22 AM Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the correction. I meant Hamiliton, but typed Defender!
>
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 2/9/2016 11:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as
> I can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
> tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
> identical product).
>
> I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine store
> I found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships min two. I
> assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him though, since
> he's the inventor of it.
>
> http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html
>
> On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
>> ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender
>> carries or you can get it from:
>>
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Thanks for the correction. I meant Hamiliton, but typed Defender!

Bill Bina

On 2/9/2016 11:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List wrote:
Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far 
as I can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color 
of the tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding 
of an identical product).


I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine 
store I found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships 
min two. I assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him 
though, since he's the inventor of it.

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM, <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


From: Bill Bina - gmail mailto:billbinal...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc:
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
    Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender
carries or you can get it from:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Defender doesn't sell it. They sell Life Safe butyl tape, which as far as I
can tell is not the same as Bed-It. (besides the name, the color of the
tape is also different so I assume it's not just a rebranding of an
identical product).

I bought Bed-it tape from Hamilton Marine. That was the only marine store I
found that sold it. I wanted only one roll and MaineSail ships min two. I
assumed buying through Hamilton Marine still supports him though, since
he's the inventor of it.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/butyl-tape-bed-it-1-2-x-50-roll-755207-/4,59595.html

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:

> From: Bill Bina - gmail 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:36:50 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape
> ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender carries
> or you can get it from:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>
> Bill Bina
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Main Sail’s tape is the best (;-). 
Compass Marine in Maine (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)

Marek


From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 9, 2016 10:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape

I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.

Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC




cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Go to compass marine and get the stuff they sell. 
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects I used it to bed the hatch, 
handrails, traveler, and any other hardware on deck. Read his rebedding advice 
as well.   Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 2016 10:28:58 -0500


I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'. Besides 
checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for thickness 
and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses? Charlie NelsonWater 
PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcbNew Bern, NCcenel...@aol.com 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Throw MaineSail some cash - he does a lot of free advising on the forums ;)
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - 
gmail via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 10:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender carries or 
you can get it from:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Bill Bina
On 2/9/2016 10:28 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.

Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC




cenel...@aol.com<mailto:cenel...@aol.com>




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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

McMaster has  it, but the bummer is they only have black.  

http://www.mcmaster.com/#butyl-rubber-tape/=111tufe

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2016 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape

 

I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I 
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out 
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.

 

Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations for 
thickness and sources of the best of this stuff for these uses?

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C&C 36 XL/kcb

New Bern, NC

 

 

 

 

cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

ONLY use Bed-it brand. The others are not the same thing. Defender 
carries or you can get it from:


http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Bill Bina

On 2/9/2016 10:28 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, 
etc. I prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff 
that comes out of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the 
proper 'brand'.
Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's 
recommendations for thickness and sources of the best of this stuff 
for these uses?

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
New Bern, NC
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape question

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I used butyl tape on my teak hand rails about 6 years ago.  Once the
handrails were off I cleaned them well and applied 5 coats of cetol all
around before reinstalling.  I found it necessary to cut holes through the
butyl tape with a punch for all of the fasteners because if I didn't do
that the butyl tape adhered to the stainless steel fasteners often twisting
up into a lump around the fasteners and pulling the butyl out of place.  I
used 1/8 inch thick butyl tape and as Jake moted previously I trimmed the
excess that squeezed out of the gap between the handrail base and the deck
with a sharp blade.  I have had zero leaks and the cetol coating on the
handrail only now needs a bit of touch up but only on the easy to work on
top surfaces...a couple of touch up coats of cetol should be quite easy to
do before launch next spring. I highly recommend butyl tape for this
application have done it twice previous with tube sealants I can say the
buyl tape is easier to work with and lasts longer...handrail installation
is a 2 person job

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Nov 12, 2015 at 6:56 AM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Barbara,
>
>
>
> I used butyl on my hand rails and it worked out well.  No leaks after five
> years.  The butyl did ooze out a little, but I can trim it off with a putty
> knife.  I bought some newer, more dense butyl that shouldn’t have that
> problem when I do future projects.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Barbara
> Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 22:01
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Butyl tape question
>
>
>
>Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And the
> Atomic 4 is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs.
> sealants, I've been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have
> uncovered leaks inside from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed?
>
>  My big winter project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes
> and put new non skid on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries.
> Will also get the toerail stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be
> filled. I'm unsure if it's better for the boat for the deck to get a coat
> of gel coat sprayed on or each area done individually. I know what a yard
> would say. $ 😳. This is why I'd like to try butyl in case I have to
> rebed everything on deck. (And is removing everything necessary if the deck
> gets sprayed?? I've always heard if it's not leaking don't take it off. )
>
> I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up
> against the inside hull.
>
>
> Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!
>
>
> Barbara L. Hickson
>
> '76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"
>
> Charleston SC - a very wet place
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Barbara,

 

Check out: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware for an article 
on rebedding deck hardware with butyl tape.  I found this about five years ago 
and bought several rolls of tape (see ordering instructions on last page).  My 
boat had many “roof” leaks and this worked out great.  I’ve used it for genoa & 
baby stay tracks and a deck hatch.  No leaks!  It worked for rebedding the 
holding tank access port.  No smells!

 

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

From: Barbara Hickson Fellers [mailto:blhick...@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 7:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape question

 

   Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And the Atomic 4 
is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs. sealants, I've 
been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have uncovered leaks inside 
from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed?

 My big winter project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes and 
put new non skid on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries. Will also 
get the toerail stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be filled. I'm 
unsure if it's better for the boat for the deck to get a coat of gel coat 
sprayed on or each area done individually. I know what a yard would say. $ 😳. 
This is why I'd like to try butyl in case I have to rebed everything on deck. 
(And is removing everything necessary if the deck gets sprayed?? I've always 
heard if it's not leaking don't take it off. )

I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up against the 
inside hull. 


Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!  


Barbara L. Hickson

'76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"

Charleston SC - a very wet place

 



Barbara L. Hickson 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl tape question

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Barbara,

 

I used butyl on my hand rails and it worked out well.  No leaks after five 
years.  The butyl did ooze out a little, but I can trim it off with a putty 
knife.  I bought some newer, more dense butyl that shouldn’t have that problem 
when I do future projects.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 22:01
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Butyl tape question

 

   Great to see new 33 owners. They are great sailing boats. And the Atomic 4 
is a great engine and fun to learn on. Speaking of adhesives vs. sealants, I've 
been wanting to try butyl tape. The recent floods have uncovered leaks inside 
from both handrails.  Can I use butyl tape to rebed?

 My big winter project is to fix the many small gel coat rubs, fill holes and 
put new non skid on. Finally will be getting self tailing primaries. Will also 
get the toerail stanchion bases so the old holes will have to be filled. I'm 
unsure if it's better for the boat for the deck to get a coat of gel coat 
sprayed on or each area done individually. I know what a yard would say. $ 😳. 
This is why I'd like to try butyl in case I have to rebed everything on deck. 
(And is removing everything necessary if the deck gets sprayed?? I've always 
heard if it's not leaking don't take it off. )

I leave my settee insert in the quarter earth as well frame side up against the 
inside hull. 


Thanks and welcome to our new C&C owners!  


Barbara L. Hickson

'76 C&C 33-1 "Flight Risk"

Charleston SC - a very wet place

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

You can buy button tape in grey

--- Original Message ---

From: "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
Sent: 15 October, 2014 9:30 AM
To: "Dennis C." , "CnC CnC discussion list" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

I agree with either Lifeseal or Butyl. I used to use Lifeseal all the time, but 
now use butyl more often.  One tidbit I found recently is that you can buy both 
black and white butyl.  I used to shy away from butyl for deck things because I 
didn’t want the black runoff that sometimes occurs with black on deck/hull 
joints.  Since discovering white butyl, I use it much more.  Dave

On Oct 15, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.
>
> I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the 
> good stuff from here:
>
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>
> The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.
>
> My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise 
> use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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>

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I agree with either Lifeseal or Butyl. I used to use Lifeseal all the time, but 
now use butyl more often.  One tidbit I found recently is that you can buy both 
black and white butyl.  I used to shy away from butyl for deck things because I 
didn’t want the black runoff that sometimes occurs with black on deck/hull 
joints.  Since discovering white butyl, I use it much more.  Dave

On Oct 15, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.
> 
> I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the 
> good stuff from here:  
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
> 
> The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.
> 
> My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise 
> use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
> 
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> 
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> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I quit using 4200 a few years ago.  I use LifeSeal instead now.

I think you could use either in this case.  If you choose butyl, order the
good stuff from here:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

The butyl from RV stores tends to be stringy and doesn't work as well.

My opinion is if the deck hardware will move or flex, use butyl, otherwise
use a curing sealant such as LifeSeal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 12:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Dave said:



ha!  sometimes your fingers get away from you!  LOL

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: Dave Godwin , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 08:05:18 -0400

" he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
on…"

English much?

" he promised he would be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2014, at 07:53, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
> on…

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Over the years I've used 4200 5200 and that other stuff...I can't call the 
number off from sikaflex.  (although the sikaflex was below the water lime on a 
thru hull). Last time around I went with the butyl tape from mainsail's site.  
I set my new handrails, rebedded the traveler (after following mainsail's 
instructions for thru bolting) and my new hatch with it.  It is a little messy 
and kind of struggle to clean up the ooze for a nice neat job but, not a single 
leak for 2 years.  I'm going to pull the rest of the deck hardware this winter 
(if the boat doesn't sell of course!) and use the mainsail method to rebed them 
all.  I've probably got half of the deck hardware done so far. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
To: Kevin Driscoll , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2014 07:53:36 -0400

As of yesterday, I�m about 95% complete with yanking all the deck 
hardware off my boat and I am absolutely sold on butyl. I�ve been 
pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of it. Pretty much every installation 
that has used butyl is dry and no apparent rot at first inspection. There were 
a couple of newer hardware installations that used 4200 and there is evidence 
of leaking. I know the guy who did those installations and he promised he would 
going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on�
 Of note, C&C did go the extra mile and chamfer the edges of all the holes 
during the build and I think that that made a big difference in sealing. The 
guy over at Maine Sail goes to great lengths to provide examples on how to do a 
good installation with butyl. My mast collar came out yesterday afternoon and 
the balsa core was a nice yellow and dry. Reassuring. Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin�s Overdue Refit
On Oct 15, 2014, at 1:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure 
that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

" he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
on…"

English much?

" he promised he would be using butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 15, 2014, at 07:53, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> he promised he would going to be using butyl when he puts the hardware back 
> on…

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

As of yesterday, I’m about 95% complete with yanking all the deck hardware off 
my boat and I am absolutely sold on butyl. I’ve been pleasantly surprised by 
the effectiveness of it. Pretty much every installation that has used butyl is 
dry and no apparent rot at first inspection. There were a couple of newer 
hardware installations that used 4200 and there is evidence of leaking. I know 
the guy who did those installations and he promised he would going to be using 
butyl when he puts the hardware back on…

Of note, C&C did go the extra mile and chamfer the edges of all the holes 
during the build and I think that that made a big difference in sealing. The 
guy over at Maine Sail goes to great lengths to provide examples on how to do a 
good installation with butyl.

My mast collar came out yesterday afternoon and the balsa core was a nice 
yellow and dry. Reassuring.

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Oct 15, 2014, at 1:35 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 
> 
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List]

Kevin,
 I used both at different applications.  For hatches and other deck to metal
(stainless or aluminum) like stanchions and fittings I prefer butyl tape,
stays "live" and it is done properly on a clean surface lasts a long time. I
found that butyl must not be exposed to sun or UV rays. It dries  and pills
off dragging out the softer sandwiched material as opposed to the 4200/5200
that will stick an will never get it out again.

Yanni 
Boatless in Ontario

92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible
95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible
07 Yamaha Straotoliner S
SCRC 011059
SRO 26-6483

TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!
Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?
Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhere


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List; Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I will second the butyl tape recommendation.  I removed my cabin top hatch
this weekend.  The original butyl tape was solidly adhered to the hatch and
deck.  I was able to separate it from the deck with a putty knife, but it
took a fair amount of force.  A long time ago I used Pompanette's "hatch
tape" on my foredeck hatch and have had several seeps around the edges.  It
will get rebedded with butyl soon.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 1:35 AM
To: Burt Stratton via CnC-List
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters. 

Thanks
Kevin
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape vs 4200: Front hatch Rebed

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm sold on butyl.  Just make sure you re torque a couple days later and
then re torque again.  It will be easier to replace next time too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 15, 2014 1:35 AM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Butyl Tape or 4200? Lewmar hatch though not sure that matters.
>
> Thanks
> Kevin
> ___
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>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[Petar Horvatic]

I re-bedded my entire deck ('76 c&c 38 MkII) in 2004, every fitting, ports,
hatches, everything but the deck/hull joint, with that butyl rubber.  I like
it cause if you need to take anything off, it's easy.  Yet it still provides
a great seal.   My tracks have not leaked yet, 10k ocean miles and nearly 10
years later.  I like those sealers as well, and I use them but not on deck.
In my experience they would pull the gelcoat right off if I need to remove
the fitting.

 

Petar Horvatic

1976 C&C 38 Mk II

Newport, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jtsails
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 9:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

 

Yeah, right(sarcasm on).

James

Delaney

1976 C&C 38 Mk II

Oriental, NC

- Original Message - 

From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:34 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

 

I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to seal
our 1970's C&C 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!

There is a lot better stuff been invented since the '70's.

Nobody uses butyl tape except those guys that buy the stuff off that guy on
sailnet.

Get a grip people!

Sikaflex / 4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than
butyl.

 

sam :-)


From: Bob Moriarty

Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape

 

I keep a roll in the refrigerator.

 

On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion  wrote:

 All hale the great butyl tape!!

 

 





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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[sam . c . salter]

?  sam :-) From: Pat NevittSent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 6:43 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Butyl TapeTry removing anything bonded with 5200 to your gelcoat as easily as Butyl.  It isn't going to happen.On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 5:34 PM,   wrote:

I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to seal our 1970's C&C 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!
There is a lot better stuff been invented since the '70's.Nobody uses butyl tape except those guys that buy the stuff off that guy on sailnet.
Get a grip people!
Sikaflex / 4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than butyl. 
 
sam :-)
   
  From: Bob MoriartySent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape
I keep a roll in the refrigerator.On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion  wrote:





 All hale the great butyl tape!!
 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[jtsails]

Yeah, right(sarcasm on).
James
Delaney
1976 C&C 38 Mk II
Oriental, NC
  - Original Message - 
  From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 8:34 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape


  I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to seal 
our 1970's C&C 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!There is a lot 
better stuff been invented since the '70's.Nobody uses butyl tape except those 
guys that buy the stuff off that guy on sailnet.Get a grip people!Sikaflex / 
4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than butyl.

  sam :-)
From: Bob Moriarty
Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape 



  I keep a roll in the refrigerator.




  On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion  wrote:

 All hale the great butyl tape!!








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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[Pat Nevitt]

Try removing anything bonded with 5200 to your gelcoat as easily as Butyl.
It isn't going to happen.


On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 5:34 PM,  wrote:

> I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to
> seal our 1970's C&C 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!
> There is a lot better stuff been invented since the '70's.
> Nobody uses butyl tape except those guys that buy the stuff off that guy
> on sailnet.
> Get a grip people!
> Sikaflex / 4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than
> butyl.
>
> sam :-)
>   *From: *Bob Moriarty
> *Sent: *Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject: *Stus-List Butyl Tape
>
> I keep a roll in the refrigerator.
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion wrote:
>
>>All hale the great butyl tape!!
>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[sam . c . salter]

I hate to rain on a parade - well maybe not, but butyl tape was used to seal our 1970's C&C 's hull to deck joints. It's a pain in the arse!There is a lot better stuff been invented since the '70's.Nobody uses butyl tape except those guys that buy the stuff off that guy on sailnet.Get a grip people!Sikaflex / 4200 / 5200 and lots of other sealers are waaay better than butyl.  sam :-) From: Bob MoriartySent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 5:01 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Stus-List Butyl TapeI keep a roll in the refrigerator.On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion  wrote:




 All hale the great butyl tape!!
 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[Wally Bryant]

But you have to let it warm up before you can eat it.

The storm 'IVO' made a turn and barely left a centimeter of rain on me.  
  Bummer.  I was looking forward to scrubbing the 
decks in 20 knots and getting a free rinse.


Wal

you wrote:

I keep a roll in the refrigerator.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape

[Knowles Rich]

Good on rye with Dijon. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-08-24, at 20:01, Bob Moriarty  wrote:

I keep a roll in the refrigerator.


On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 5:08 PM, Persuasion  wrote:
>  All hale the great butyl tape!!
>  
> 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Bill Coleman]

I would also like to make a plug for a local business, Lord Corp.

www.lord.com

 

they built their business around adhesives, and also have a full line of tapes 
and adhesives for the aerospace and automotive areas. I believe they were the 
adhesive tapes that bonded the plastic body panels to the metal substrate of 
the GM minivans  some years ago, don’t remember their name - 

Also they have a Fusor line that bonds all types of materials, plastic 
included, to anything.

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/plastic-bonding.xml/81/6

 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 


From: Indigo  
Date: 03/06/2013 6:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows 



I did my windows last year using the Select Plastic method – No clamps or 
bracing required.  Tony pre-drills 6 very small holes through the Plexus (or 
choice of window). Dry fit the windows and drill pilot holes into the 
fiberglass through Tony’s holes. Mask everything. Affix nylon washers or other 
spacers to the window with dabs of Dow 795. Apply plenty and I mean PLENTY of 
Dow 795 to the window. (If you don’t make a mess, you have not used enough!) 
Put windows in place and affix with small screws in pre-drilled holes. Tighten 
enough to ensure 795 oozes out every where.  After several days (I think it was 
10 from memory) remove screws and fill holes with dab of 795.  Admitedly only 
one season so far, but not a single leak.  

 

My biggest mistake was not to get good masking in the sharper inside corners. 
However, a few minutes of careful work with an Xacto knife blade, and the 975 
came away clean,

 

As I said in an earlier post, 795 takes quite a while to set up and Tony was 
adamant that I should not move the boat for quite a while – I think it was 
10-15 days – This is therefore a fall or early spring project if you don’t want 
to delay splash!

 

Jonathan

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try 
that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding 
and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Harry Hallgring]

Fred,I used this 3M Tape which I bought at a local NAPA Auto Parts store.Harry HallgringMirageOn Mar 06, 2013, at 05:02 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:1. prep/sand boat and plexi.2. Sika prime both surfaces3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening4. mask everything5. lay bead of sealant on boat6. set ports7. finish sealant8. remove tape when tackyI don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it in place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.Harry Hallgring
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Paul Fountain]

Had Perception's done last year, along with a lot of gel cost repair from 2 
poor jobs done previously, a previous owner and an 'expert' . The installer 
used #4 screws between the glazing and edge of the recess with washers on them. 
He used the sikaflex and primer for adhesive. After the adhesive dried he 
removed them, taped the window and gel coat and caulked the gap covering the 
holes. Looks great, and so far dry.

Paul. :)


On 2013-03-06, at 6:32 PM, "Indigo"  wrote:

> I did my windows last year using the Select Plastic method – No clamps or 
> bracing required.  Tony pre-drills 6 very small holes through the Plexus (or 
> choice of window). Dry fit the windows and drill pilot holes into the 
> fiberglass through Tony’s holes. Mask everything. Affix nylon washers or 
> other spacers to the window with dabs of Dow 795. Apply plenty and I mean 
> PLENTY of Dow 795 to the window. (If you don’t make a mess, you have not used 
> enough!) Put windows in place and affix with small screws in pre-drilled 
> holes. Tighten enough to ensure 795 oozes out every where.  After several 
> days (I think it was 10 from memory) remove screws and fill holes with dab of 
> 795.  Admitedly only one season so far, but not a single leak. 
>  
> My biggest mistake was not to get good masking in the sharper inside corners. 
> However, a few minutes of careful work with an Xacto knife blade, and the 975 
> came away clean,
>  
> As I said in an earlier post, 795 takes quite a while to set up and Tony was 
> adamant that I should not move the boat for quite a while – I think it was 
> 10-15 days – This is therefore a fall or early spring project if you don’t 
> want to delay splash!
>  
> Jonathan
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick 
> G Street
> Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows
>  
> Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try 
> that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding 
> and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!
>  
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>  
> On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:
> 
> 
> 1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
> 2. Sika prime both surfaces
> 3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
> 4. mask everything
> 5. lay bead of sealant on boat
> 6. set ports
> 7. finish sealant
> 8. remove tape when tacky
>  
> I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it 
> in place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE 
> without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J 
> Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
> Harry Hallgring
> hhallgr...@icloud.com
>  
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[DAVID R MOCNY]

We did the windows on our 29-2. Put butyl tape and the same sealant that S2 
used the set their windows. Don,t remember the name but I think I still have 
some in the basement.  The butyl tape ran down the windows when it got hot. 
Black windows in the Georgia sun get hot.  The sealant held up well.  I've 
seen S2's that the original windows still do not leak, we had one and was 
impressed with the construction. To hold the windows in during drying time, I 
got some double suction window lifting handles. I stuck them to the inside and 
tied straps to the opposite side of the boat. Tighten the ratchets to pull the 
glass in. It worked great. This was a long messy job. Hope to never do it 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Indigo]

I did my windows last year using the Select Plastic method - No clamps or
bracing required.  Tony pre-drills 6 very small holes through the Plexus (or
choice of window). Dry fit the windows and drill pilot holes into the
fiberglass through Tony's holes. Mask everything. Affix nylon washers or
other spacers to the window with dabs of Dow 795. Apply plenty and I mean
PLENTY of Dow 795 to the window. (If you don't make a mess, you have not
used enough!) Put windows in place and affix with small screws in
pre-drilled holes. Tighten enough to ensure 795 oozes out every where.
After several days (I think it was 10 from memory) remove screws and fill
holes with dab of 795.  Admitedly only one season so far, but not a single
leak.  

 

My biggest mistake was not to get good masking in the sharper inside
corners. However, a few minutes of careful work with an Xacto knife blade,
and the 975 came away clean,

 

As I said in an earlier post, 795 takes quite a while to set up and Tony was
adamant that I should not move the boat for quite a while - I think it was
10-15 days - This is therefore a fall or early spring project if you don't
want to delay splash!

 

Jonathan

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try
that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the
holding and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:





1. prep/sand boat and plexi.

2. Sika prime both surfaces

3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening

4. mask everything

5. lay bead of sealant on boat

6. set ports

7. finish sealant

8. remove tape when tacky

 

I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it
in place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE
without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J
Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.

Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com

 

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Frederick G Street]

Could you please resend the model of 3M tape you're using?  I'd love to try 
that method with Plexus on my next window redo; it could save all the holding 
and bracing while the adhesive sets up.  Thanks!


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 6, 2013, at 1:48 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:

> 1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
> 2. Sika prime both surfaces
> 3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
> 4. mask everything
> 5. lay bead of sealant on boat
> 6. set ports
> 7. finish sealant
> 8. remove tape when tacky
> 
> I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it 
> in place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE 
> without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J 
> Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
> Harry Hallgring
> hhallgr...@icloud.com

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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Knowles Rich]

Looks great. Nice work:)

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-03-06, at 3:48 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:

1. prep/sand boat and plexi.
2. Sika prime both surfaces
3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening
4. mask everything
5. lay bead of sealant on boat
6. set ports
7. finish sealant
8. remove tape when tacky

I don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it in 
place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without 
incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the 
same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.
Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.com

On Mar 06, 2013, at 02:05 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:

> So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just 
> the 3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever 
> and no major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in 
> place?
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO LF38
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:
> 
> Portlight Replacement Pictures
> 
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> 
> On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:
> 
>> Jonathan,
>> The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
>> fill any irregularities. 
>> 
>> Harry
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone

> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Harry Hallgring]

1. prep/sand boat and plexi.2. Sika prime both surfaces3. apply tape to boat on inboard edge of opening4. mask everything5. lay bead of sealant on boat6. set ports7. finish sealant8. remove tape when tackyI don't use clamps or braces, although it wouldn't hurt.  The tape holds it in place (approx 1/16" bedding).  Ports completed two seasons on MIRAGE without incident.  I have done other frameless surface mounted ports on my J Boat the same way and it lasts.  Sika is good stuff.Harry Hallgring
hhallgr...@icloud.comOn Mar 06, 2013, at 02:05 PM, Knowles Rich  wrote:So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just the 3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever and no major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in place?Rich KnowlesINDIGO LF38Halifax, NS.On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:Portlight Replacement PicturesHarryMIRAGEOn Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:Jonathan,The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill any irregularities. HarrySent from my iPhone___This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comCnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Andrew Burton]

Harry, You're an inspiration! Nice job!
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 6, 2013, at 2:00 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:

> Portlight Replacement Pictures
> 
> Harry
> MIRAGE
> 
> On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:
> 
>> Jonathan,
>> The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
>> fill any irregularities. 
>> 
>> Harry
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Knowles Rich]

So Harry, just to confirm, the windows are secured in the cabin top by just the 
3M tape and then they are caulked with Sika 395. No fasteners whatsoever and no 
major installation bracing or clamping? How long have they been in place?

Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.





On 2013-03-06, at 3:00 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:

Portlight Replacement Pictures

Harry
MIRAGE

On Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:

> Jonathan,
> The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does 
> fill any irregularities. 
> 
> Harry
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Harry Hallgring]

Portlight Replacement PicturesHarryMIRAGEOn Mar 06, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Harry Hallgring  wrote:Jonathan,The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill any irregularities. HarrySent from my iPhone___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Harry Hallgring]

Jonathan,
The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill 
any irregularities. 

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2013, at 11:43 AM, Indigo  wrote:

> Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and 
> the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up 
> where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.
>  
> Jonathan
> Indigo 35-III
> Southport CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
> Schillay
> Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows
>  
> All,
>  
> Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape 
> to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
>  
> I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the 
> job very well. 
> (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952&rt=s&x=0&y=0)
>  
>  
> I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
>  
>   Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 
>  
>  
>   All the best,
>  
>   Edd
>  
>  
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger  wrote:
> 
> 
> Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing 
> to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The 
> same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together 
> with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing 
> it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
> I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is 
> the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 
> 
> I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!
> 
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> C&C 27-v
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, "Kim Brown"  wrote:
> 
> 
> All, 
> I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
> years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
> at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
> torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
> bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
> lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
> ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
> tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
> discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
> enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
> One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
> primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
> enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
> so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
> soon. 
> 
> Kim Brown
> Trust Me!!! 35-3 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Indigo]

Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and
the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up
where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.

 

Jonathan

Indigo 35-III

Southport CT

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

 

All,

 

Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape
to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?

 

I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do
the job very well.
(http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/Al
l-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-S
ided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952
 &rt=s&x=0&y=0) 

 

I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 

 

  Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 

  

  

  All the best,

 

  Edd

 

 

  Edd M. Schillay

  Starship Enterprise

  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

  City Island, NY 

  Starship   Enterprise's Captain's
Log Website

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger  wrote:





Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing
to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The
same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together
with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing
it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is
the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 

I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!

Cheers
Brent Driedger
C&C 27-v
Lake Winnipeg

Sent from my iPhone

On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, "Kim Brown"  wrote:




All, 
I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
soon. 

Kim Brown
Trust Me!!! 35-3 




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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Firewater]

I would second Bob's comments.  I used buytl tape on aluminum framed windows on 
the Catalina I used to own and would never use anything else in that type of 
application.  However, the reason it works so well is that it is not adhesive, 
so you can get the windows off again to adjust the seal if necessary.  It 
definitely won't work if that is the only thing holding the window on.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI

On Mar 6, 2013, at 9:10 AM, Robert Abbott  wrote:

> Edd:
> 
> If your windows have frames and are fastened with screws and/or nuts & bolts, 
> butyl tape would work just fine.  I have no experience with the 3M tape.
> 
> If your windows are like mine and sit flush with the cabin top with a curve, 
> I don't think butyl tape won't hold them in place.
> 
> I replaced my windows are a few years back and used Sika 295 UV with the 
> primer..no problems to date, happy with the Sika product.
> 
> Bob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> 
> On 2013/03/06 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>>  Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape to fasten 
>> their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
>> 
>>  I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the job very 
>> well. 
>> (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952&rt=s&x=0&y=0)
>>  
>> 
>>  I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
>> 
>>   Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 
>>  
>>  
>>  All the best,
>> 
>>  Edd
>> 
>> 
>>  Edd M. Schillay
>>  Starship Enterprise
>>  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>  City Island, NY 
>>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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___
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Re: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows

[Harry Hallgring]

I used the 3M double sided tape and Sika 295 on Mirage with excellent results. 
Be sure to scuff and prime both surfaces...you'll never get it off!  The tape 
acts as a clamp and spacer to ensure a consistent sealant thickness. 
 pictures to follow...

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2013, at 9:47 AM, Edd Schillay  wrote:

> All,
> 
>   Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape to 
> fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
> 
>   I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the job 
> very well. 
> (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952&rt=s&x=0&y=0)
>  
> 
>   I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
> 
>   Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 
>   
>   
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger  wrote:
> 
>> Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing 
>> to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The 
>> same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together 
>> with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing 
>> it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
>> I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is 
>> the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 
>> 
>> I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Brent Driedger
>> C&C 27-v
>> Lake Winnipeg
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, "Kim Brown"  wrote:
>> 
>>> All, 
>>> I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
>>> years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
>>> at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
>>> torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
>>> bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
>>> lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
>>> ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
>>> tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
>>> discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
>>> enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
>>> One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
>>> primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
>>> enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
>>> so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
>>> soon. 
>>> 
>>> Kim Brown
>>> Trust Me!!! 35-3 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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