Greg,
I have a PS-7 that I removed the connectors from and use to power several VHF
/ UHF amplifiers, only one amplifier is keyed at any given time of course. The
PS-7 does has an AUX 13.6 volt output available through a RCA jack but its
limited to only a few amps.
73,
Nice Drake TR4, MS4 Speaker, and AC4 power supply. The AC-4 power supply has
had the electrolytic capacitors replaced. Local pick-up or I will meet halfway
within a reasonable distance from my QTH. $350. Email me if you have questions.
73, Gary
Joe,
I can’t say for sure but I doubt any cabinets were shipped without the
lettering. The single letters on the back were to match up receiver /
transmitter mixer crystal drift characteristics, is Red, Green, and Blue.
73, Gary___
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Tim,
Check out INRAD filters, buying a used filter that’s 30 to 35 years old is a
gamble, crystals age and the center frequency or shape factor can change, been
there myself!
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Paul,
If my memory serves me right, and that’s rare anymore, HI HI ... try
replacing C107, a 60 mfd electrolytic capacitor in your T-4XC.
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Arthur,
Check the 25 volt DC input from the power supply board to the VCO. If that
voltage is low the VCO doesn’t have the range it needs to tune the 10 and 15
meter bands. If your power supply board is the older type with the dc to dc
converter, check the core on the transformer to make sure
Bill,
The matching hand mic for the TR-7 was the 7073DM .
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John,
I rarely pay much attention to the analog dial, but more then likely the
piece of surgical tubing behind the dial skirt has dried up and shrank and will
need replaced.
The frequency display being erratic and counting up on the 15 and 10 meter
bands is probably due to the 24 vdc
The single wire jumper that connects the DR-7 to the high pass filter module
should toggle to ground as you turn the band switch, this resets the DR-7. I
have had a bad U9005 or U9006 bad in the past. The actual receive will be off
as well.
73,
Yes it needs to be connected. It is not a fuse but a test point for driver bias.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4 MN-2700 MN-4C MN-2000
UV-3
Lane,
The green LED is a function of the ALC. The LED will light on voice peaks
when the ALC kicks in and limits power output of the PA section. This is
typically 110 to 150 watts depending on the band. Your antenna impedance will
also affect when the LED lights. If you looking at anything
It’s a common problem with all of the TR-4 models, usually the LSB filter ( LSB
on 80 meters ).
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4 MN-2700
Leon,
Replace the 1000 ufd capacitor on the right forward edge of the DR-7 board.
Its C9026 on the schematic. I have had this happen to one of my TR-7’s.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT
Tim,
Evan K9SQG might be able to help you .
k9...@aol.com
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I also find the NB-7 works very well for what it was intended, impulse
noise, not static crashes. Be careful on your choice of a TR-7. A well cared
for, recently “ gone through “ TR-7 is worth more than an unknown condition or
basket case TR-7A. There is not enough difference to warrant the
Brian,
Yes the RV-4 can be used with the TR-4C. The only difference between the RV-4
and RV-4C are the dials.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4
The VOX RELAY jack on the AC-4
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4 MN-2700 MN-4C MN-2000
UV-3 PS-3 TR-22C TR-33C AA-10 AC-10 MMK-22 TR-6
PRN1000
Norm,
Check the contacts on relay R-2 at the back right corner of the chassis. The
contacts can become dirty and kept the 9 Mhz crystal oscillator in “ CW offset
“ mode.
Its also possible you have a bad LSB filter. Check the 9 mhz carrier
oscillator with a frequency counter or by
AL,
The R-4 dial was marked every 5 khz, it’s possible that the early R-4A’s used
the same dial. My R-4A and R-4B have the same dial.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4 L-4B RCS-4
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C MC-4
TR-7 RV-7
David,
I read back through your earlier posts, I assume the problem is on all bands.
With the T-4XC disconnected from the R-4C check the T-4XC’s INJ jack for RF
that peaks with the preselector and varies in frequency with the PTO. On 40
meters the frequency will be 18.1 mhz minus the 5.5 to 5
Check for a –24 volts at the T-4XC INJ jack when in XMTR, that voltage is what
allows the T-4XC to take control.
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Make sure the RCT push button is not latched IN.___
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Make sure the bias voltage isn’t set too high. It is also used in the VOX
circuit and can cause the relay to hang. If the finals are weak you may have
set the bias too high trying to get the PLATE meter to read the 1000 ma final
bias. Pull the 6EV7 and if the relay relaxes the issue is not the
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The T-4X IF frequency is 5645 khz, that’s why the manual states not to use the
frequencies 5 to 6 mhz.
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Damien,
Its not uncommon for the crystals to drift or not oscillate at all. If after
you accomplish the oscillator adjustment per the alignment instructions and any
of the 10 meter band positions show no negative voltage at the test point, the
crystal is bad. You sometimes can try and adjust
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After market or home made ...
73, Gary
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R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4
L-4B
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4
MN-2700 MN-4C MN-2000
UV-3 PS-3
PRN1000
TR-22C TR-33C AA-10 AC-10 MMK-22
Kevin,
I have replaced several switches by prying off the bad one, and installing a
new switch by trimming back the mounting tabs, and tack soldering it on. There
are a few different styles of switches so you will need to locate the correct
style. Back in the day Drake used to offer these so
Years back I ran a C-Line with a Ameritron AL-80 ( single 3-500Z ) which
resulted in a 100 watt carrier. The amps grid current peaks where kept in the
200 ma range.
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John,
As you suggested it would be easiest to just cut it off at the strain relief
and re-terminate inside. You will only lose about 6 to 8 inches at best.
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Peter,
Its usually a bad D5 ( 1N270 ) diode. The 68 ohm resistor on the switch is
for the plate current function only.
73, Gary
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R-4A T4-X R-4B T4-XB R-4C T4-XC MS-4
L-4B
2A 2B 2C 2NT 2CQ 2AS 4-LF
TR-4 TR-4C TR-4CW/RIT RV-4C
TR-7 RV-7 CW-75 MS-7
WH-7 W-4 WV-4
Old AC-4 ... no AC-4R rebuild, original parts no load ...
718 vdc
286 vdc
-70 vdc
13.8 vac
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Ok, one last comment and I’ll shut up. Regardless of how you feel about the
Sherwood mods my point is, for me anyway, its not practical because of the
cost. Whether I did it myself or not, I cannot justify putting that kind of
money into a radio that’s 30 plus years old. I have had a couple
Greg,
I assume you do not have a key plugged into the key jack? Do you hear the
sidetone? Also try advancing the VOX GAIN pot on the side in the cw direction,
turned the ANTI VOX pot fully CCW. You may have a problem with the VOX circuit
or a weak 6EV7 tube. You might try reseating it just
Crystals age and shift frequency, sometimes they quit all together. You can
purchase new filters from Sherwood or INRAD. Buying used filters or crystals is
risky.
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I once used my C-Line with a single 500Z Ameritron AL-80. It produced about
100 watts of carrier and peaks of 600 to 700 watts. You really need to have a
scope inline to check the waveform as to not over do it.
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Sartori Associates also made the kits available. The earliest ads I have
for the Sherwood / Sartori kits is 1982. Most of the articles for R-4C
improvement show up in 1979 issues of Ham Radio and 73. Fox Tango also made
switchable 1st IF filters kits available they called GUF-1 and GUF-2.
ED,
What are wanting to use the Corona Dope for?
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Dale
I rarely use Deoxit in tube sockets unless I have reason to believe the
sockets have oxidized and are causing issues. If you do use it in tube sockets
its best to dip a round toothpick in Deoxit and insert that into the individual
sockets, giving it several turns. I have also applied
A short in the B+ line within the T-4X will open the resistors. It used to
happen a lot when people would change the blue filter in S meter of TR-4’s and
pinch the wires reassembling the metal cover on the S meter. Look for a short
in your T-4X.
73, Gary
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
R-4A
The TR-7 line cabinets where always a gray color, either the early “ sticky “
paint or a textured gray vinyl finish. The later replacement cabinets were
black since that was what they used for some of their satellite equipment
cabinets. Some people have striped the sticky paint down to the
I have used both white paint and lacquer sticks. I prefer the paint myself.
Apply the paint, give it a minute or so to partially dry, then wipe off the
excess with a paper towel moistened with paint thinner or mineral spirits.
73, Gary___
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Soldering small buss wire pigtails to a fuse works fine ... scrape the plating
off both ends where you intend to solder and be quick about it ... I have
done it many times.
73, Gary
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Jim,
After re-reading your email I do believe your problem is with the
anti-backlash gear/bushing shown in your pictures 6 and 7 as you suspected. The
two anti-backlash gears are suppose to be tight and not easily move on the
brass bushing. I think you could probably tighten them up by
The 16 pin MC4016 ( MC4316/4016 ) is a programable divide by N counter. Not
sure why Motorola used the 4016 number twice, very confusing.
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If its rusted the copper is gone anyway, clean away the rust the best you can
with a Dremel tool and scotch brite. Then coat the chassis with polyurethane,
worked for me.
73, Gary
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Drill out the set screw and re-tap the knob once its removed ...
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The TR-7 nylon gears are not affected by oil because the gear bushings are
brass on brass. The older PTO's used a nylon gear over a brass bushing and
oil is a problem. I have had to disassemble many older 4 line PTO's with
binding gears and open up the hole in the nylon gear with a wood dowel
Steve,
The T-4X puts a –30 volts on the INJ line when the XMTR position is selected.
That –30 shuts down the R-4A’s premixer V8. In RCVR position the –30 volts is
removed, the T-4X’s PTO output is deselected, and the R-4A’s injection is then
free to be boss.
73,
Gang,
Donnie WA9TGT is back making parts for Drakes again, here is the URL ..
http://www.2bradioparts.com/
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The AC-4's used to run around $75. The serial number or appearance really means
little to nothing. Buying an AC-4 that has not had the capacitors replaced is a
risk. The state of the electrolytics should be suspect. I have bought nice ones
on eBay only to find the capacitors leaky. Also the
Check the PIN diodes
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Paul
I have opened several of the filters using a very hot iron and lots of
solder wick. I have about 5 or 6 of them. Inside you will find eight
crystals and a few disk capacitors. I had planned on trying to take a few
bad ones and make a good filter but have yet to try. I suppose a torch
Kihwal,
I have several of the older Drakes that where upgraded to the B-Line
style knob, its not hard to do nor is it rare to see. Drake sold lots of
newer knobs to be installed on earlier equipment. The snap rings simply
slides over the PTO shaft and can be placed anywhere. I have converted
Go for the gusto ... Hygain Hytower!
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Anything with brushes, a corless drill, heat gun, etc. Also a solder station
with adjustable heat works great.
73, Gary
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The R-4, R-A, and R4-B have a crystal filter in T6.
73, Gary
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Steve,
The clips can be reshaped to allow the shield to snap in place and be held
securely against the PTO frame. You have to put the curve back into them.
They can sometimes be flattened out too much.
73, Gary
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Guys,
I am fairly certain the digital programming section of the DR-7 will not
affect the DR-7 display. If its just the display thats off and not the
actual TR-7 operating frequency then the problem is strickly with the
functioning of the display portion of the DR-7. The display uses the VCO
The TR-7 always transmits through the stock 2.3 khz SSB filter regardless of
mode. In AM only the USB and carrier are transmitted.
73, Gary
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Demis,
Check for +10 on pin 36 of the PBT/Reference board when the TR-7 is keyed in
AM mode. There then will be about 0.5 volt ppk of 5.645 mhz RF diode switched
and present on pin 30. This RF is then feed to the 2nd IF/Audio board on pin
11.
73, Gary
Merry Christmas to all and best wishes for the New Year!
73, Gary
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Rick,
Is this on any particular band? Does the power out vary with position of the
TUNE and LOAD controls? Does this happen into a dummy load? If the PA goes into
parasitic oscillation power out will go full bore with the slightest
advancement of the GAIN control.
Also if there is an issue
Richard,
Painting wont help as it will block light from passing through the filter
and the yellowing would still be there anyway. The only way to eliminate the
green hue is to replace the white background with something. Go to ACE
Hardware and buy a garage sale or for sale sign and cut the
Richard,
A replacement for the Drake blue filter material can be purchased from
theater supply houses. The material is known as lighting gel and is available
in numerous colors. Its thinner than what Drake used but can be doubled up. It
can be purchased in large sheets and cut as required. I
Charles,
There is a narrow blue filter strip wrapped around the very top of the S
meter. The area closest to the lamp always fades to clear. Sometimes just
flipping the blue strip around will be enough if you do not have any filter
material.
73,
I own a few pairs of 6GJ5's, one pair is too high to fit into the 4-line PA
compartment. Neither set of tubes would neutralize in a T-4XC. I havent
tried adding or removing capacitance to the neutalizing trimmer to see if I
could get them to work. Just a heads up.
73, Gary
I have both, a BK emisions tester and a Hickok 6000A transconductance tester.
The emisions tester is useless for testing 6JB6's beyond shorts or open
filaments. Over the years I kept most of the 6JB6 pulls from my Drakes and
others I repaired. With the Hickok I was able to go through them and
6JB6's can be matched with a Drake transmitter. Set the bias on the AC-4 and
leave it be. Then measure the voltage drop across each cathode resistor with
the PTT keyed, no mic. Use ohms law to figure the current of each tube. You
probably would want to check the resistance of each cathode
Garey,
A TR-4 PA cage ( without the top cover installed ) is 3 3/8 inches tall.
I have had good luck with GE's, Zenith, RCA, and Sylvania's of course. I
hadn't seen any that were too tall, at least not yet, HI HI. The 6GJ5's are
worth a try if you can find they cheap. I have a few that came
Paul,
The reduction drive is crimped together and tough to do much with unless you
remove it and clean it with solvent. Its tough getting grease back into it as
well. I have taken a few of them apart and repaired a few that were worn out. I
use lithium grease but is not critical. If you
The speckled paint was epoxy paint, same stuff that's used on commercial
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Any 2-B's or early 4-Line's that I worked on that the buttons where faded I
would sometimes paint red, new ones werent available.
73, Gary
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Bill,
I have longed searched for a suitable replacement for the white dial back
ground plastic. The only material that I have been able to come up with that
passed light well enough is plastic For Sale, Garage Sale, etc signs. You don't
get a lot of white area without printing for each sign
John,
If your refering to the round, pink, numbered dials, check with John Kriner,
he may have a few left.
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Drake never made a TR-4CW/RIT manual, you have the latest one ...
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Check the opposite sideband. If its not the carrier oscillator it could be a
bad sideband filter ... it happens.
73, Gary W8PU
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Garey,
Got have that mic preamp for more swing . Nothing like saturating a 16
pill solid state amp and having a little negative modulation to be loud and
proud !!! HI HI.
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Richard,
Your setting will be only as accurate as you signal generator. If you have a
seperate receiver that will tune any WWV station, tune it to WWV and drape the
antenna near the calibratot. Or use a frequency counter.
73, Gary W8PU
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Ken,
Drake stopped installing tubes shields on those tubes a long time ago. The
TR-4C never had them installed.
73, Gary W8PU
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You can try Windex and cotton swabs but more often then not you will rub off
some of the white paint. Best thing is white enamel applied with a thin brush,
then just before it dries, wipe off any excess outside of the groove with a rag
moistened with paint thinner. The knobs were originally
Curt,
I had the same issue a few years back and the only place that resonded to my
email inquiry only offered the MC10138FN surface mount style of package. Most
of the emails I sent out to parts venders either went unanswered or the cost
was rediculous. I soldered on small leads and mounted
James,
I also suggest the URM-25 series of signal generators. They are plentyfull
and can be purchased for around $200. They are not all the same and were made
by different manufactures I am told so do your homework. I have owned a URM-25F
( 10kHz to 50 mHz ) for several years and the only
Bill,
The tube Drakes where not designed for 8 ohm headsets if that is what you are
using, install a 100 ohm resistor in series with the headsets. I use aviation
headsets that are around 300 ohm.
As far as the calibrator issue try replacing the filter the capacitor on the
calibrator baord.
Ron,
I haven't been following the thread but of the TR-7's that I have owned or
serviced the lowest I have seen the +24 volts and not had an issue with the PLL
locking up on 14 mhz and higher was 23.6 volts. That's not to say 23.3 vdc is
bad, I just haven't yet seen it. The voltage just needs
I have found that to get the CW delay that I prefer, increasing R106 above 3.3
meg is not enough. In fact you will reach a point where the VOX will hang. I
suggest replacing C143 with a .47 ufd capacitor and then experiment with values
for R106. You could instead mount a pot in an unused hole
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Dale,
If you look at the bottom edge of your new displays you notice a row of
solder pads with holes. These connect to the DR-7 board with a right angle
solder pin header. You will need a good iron and lots of solder wick. I have
change a lot of these and usually you will need to lightly,
I like the sellers In fact there are so many rumors on when the A was
released does anyone really know?
I emailed the guy and told him yes we do know when they were released. I also
told him about the absence of the TX stenciling over the spare RCA jack on
the back panel and that every
Years ago, many years ago actually, I bought a VF-1 at a hamfest in Springfield
Ohio for a buck. I used it with a home brew 1625 CW transmitter for my very
first ever 160 meter contact around 1977. Only compalint I had was a phone call
from a local ham for having bad key clicks!
Mike,
If the bandswitch is tight its possibly because someone used contact cleaner
that contained a lubricant and it swelled the wafers. Get a can of degreaser
and hose down the wafers really good. Sometimes this will evaporate away the
lubricant.
73, Gary W8PU
Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving
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My solder station and heat gun make for good sources of noise as well , HI HI.
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Best of my knowledge Drake always used blue filter material. As most of use has
witnessed over the years with age the blue filter material would fade in the
area of the #47 lamp and the white plastic dial background would yellow. The
result was a green colored dial background. The S meter would
Contact Steve Morgan at RL Drake ... we had several caps and T shirts made with
the Drake logo on them to sell to make money for the Drake ARC. He can give you
permission to use the logo.
73, Gary W8PU
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Mount a small 3 inch 12 volt fan on the back of the PA cage, the holes match up
without any modification to the cage. Take 12 ac from the filament supply
somewhere under the chassis and run it through a diode to a small electrolytic.
The size of the electrolytic will actually decide the fan
Bob,
The dial is a friction fit, you can hold the PTO knob firmly and force the
plastic dial to turn to position it where you want.
73, Gary W8PU
http://home.roadrunner.com/~w8pu
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ED,
This probably wont help but I reccently needed to add pins to my UV-3's
connector for a PLL encoder and found it to be a 10 pin version of the
connectors used on the TR-7 DR-7connections. I had a junker TR-7 chassis and
took pins from it.
73,
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