[Drakelist] (no subject)

2018-06-30 Thread Unknown

http://notice.abettorusa.com
Unknown


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2017-02-20 Thread Gary Poland
Nice Drake TR4, MS4 Speaker, and AC4 power supply. The AC-4 power supply has 
had the electrolytic capacitors replaced. Local pick-up or I will meet halfway 
within a reasonable distance from my QTH. $350. Email me if you have questions. 
73, Gary W8PU___
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2017-02-20 Thread Jerry Judy
What is a nice TR 4 + solid state Ps. worth?  KE8NP___
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2017-01-02 Thread KL7AM
Huh? 


From: "Wrayhamishfisher Fisher" <wrayhamishfis...@gmail.com> 
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Monday, January 2, 2017 8:43:13 AM 
Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject) 

Hi looking for sum one in the kent how nows tr7 as it needs sum woark on it 

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2017-01-02 Thread Wrayhamishfisher Fisher
Hi looking for sum one in the kent how nows tr7 as it needs sum woark on it
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2016-05-09 Thread smileywb4

Looking to buy a 2-CQ and a 2-NB thank you and 73 
 
smiley...@aol.com

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2015-04-25 Thread ro...@4speeds.net
Sent on the new Sprint Network

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2015-03-01 Thread jeff austin
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2014-05-26 Thread john
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2013-09-03 Thread john . roccaro
referral program http://goldenmax.ru/134604.php







From: john.roccaro 9/3/2013 4:17:06 PM

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2013-08-27 Thread morry . ham



referral http://bso-site.nl/ocomehmi/tati.php














Sent: 8/27/2013 10:45:48 AM

From morry.ham

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2013-08-25 Thread john . roccaro
referral program http://turkuaz-gmbh.com/749211.php







From: john.roccaro 8/25/2013 5:29:12 AM

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2013-02-18 Thread ti...@visi.net
Looking for few part for my new Drake components - (TR-4C w/ 34-PNB
*Noise*Blanker,
TR-4Cw, RV-4C, 2ea AC-4, DC-4, MN-4, MS-4, Shure 444D, Astatic Noice
Cancelling hand mic)  New to the BoatAnchor world, like the nostalgia of
tubes.

Need the following: MN-4 Push to Set-Release for VSWR Knob,  MN-4 3ea
Ceramic Reactive Isolator / Mounts, DC-4 power cable (Supply to Radio
cable), 4 sets of rubber feet for cabinets.

Haven't put the TXCr on the air yet until I have the power supply run up on
a variack!  So I have the following questions; How good is the RV-4C
speaker compared to the MS-4, how well does the 34-PNB work and what do I
gain with the RV-4C?

Also need to know who is the most reasonable, reliable and does good
repair, cleaning and alignment work?

Thanks

Tony - N4TGR
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2012-06-07 Thread Kevin Mahoney
Make M0ney 0nline Fast
http://www.omiags.org/httptyr7eaz-1.php?binFriendID=630

Thu, 7 Jun 2012 14:29:58

__
_Fig.6Application of the Gyroscope. (c) colleen windsor



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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2012-04-17 Thread Wolfgang (VK3WY)

  - Original Message - 
  From: gypsym...@aol.com 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 10:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)


  Hi all,
  Just checking, have not seen any messages since Apr.7.,  checked the archives 
to verify that It didn't seem to be me related.  Carl wd8nhk


--


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2012-04-13 Thread Gypsymt34
Hi all,
Just checking, have not seen any messages since Apr.7.,  checked the  
archives to verify that It didn't seem to be me related.  Carl  wd8nhk___
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2012-02-10 Thread Terry Biernacki
=^_^=
http://www.yorksmith.co.uk/wp-includes/friends.php?black169.html



===

Success is the ability to go from failure to failure without losing your 
enthusiasm. (c) Prime Minister Winston Churchill
2/10/2012 8:46:18 PM
Terry Biernacki
ksgcdrglwxir___
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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2012-01-11 Thread Adrian P. van Bloois
Hi,
Thanks guys for the great response. All very similar. :-)
It's just what I did to my Yaesu FTDX-400 in 1972. The thing got so hot
that you could fry an egg on it. Then I bought a fan, Papst, real robust
German thing. The finals were probably cooler than the rest of the rig.
BOth fan and rig are still running smoothly. :-)
Blowing the air out seems to be the key factor in this.
Thanks again,

73  Adrian




-- 
Adrian P. van Bloois
Antonlaan 104   email:  adr...@pa0rda.nl
3701 VG Zeist   voice:  +31-(0)-30-6912741
The Netherlands fax:NONE

52 05'15.77N 5 4'44.56E
QTH-locater  JO 22 OC

The whole point of cooking is to get as much flavour out of the
ingredients as possible.
-- Delia Smith


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.


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Re: [Drakelist] Update Subject When ...

2012-01-05 Thread Garey Barrell

Kris -

Yeah, good point!  You mean AM is not related to a FS: R-4B and T-XB??   :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Kris Merschrod wrote:

Hey guys/gals,  how about changing the subject line to fit the topic?
Kris KM2KM




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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-12-05 Thread Ramon Klein
http://eliamagana.com/modules/mod_wdbanners/like.php?photo126.jpg

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-11-06 Thread Kevin Elliott
.. http://njzion.org/friends.php?aluckyid=o4oa

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-11-06 Thread Steve Wedge


This appears to be malware hackery.  Please, folks, do not click on the 
link!


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.



--
From: Kevin Elliott kg...@yahoo.com
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 7:29 PM
To: badg...@ticon.net; danpvalde...@yahoo.com; 
diletta...@mikedaisey.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net; 
ft-950-ow...@yahoogroups.com; ham-radio-del...@yahoogroups.com; 
i...@heilsound.com

Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject)


.. http://njzion.org/friends.php?aluckyid=o4oa

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-21 Thread Kevin Elliott
. http://philippemuyl.fr/friends.php?oppage=yaexo

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-03 Thread Ron
There is a rather straight forward mod for the Johnsons to allow them to cover 
160.  Somewhere I have the article.  Does require some work and potentially a 
12volt supply if you use relays vs switches.  Unfortunately, it mods/butchers a 
classic tuner unit, but if you can stand doing that.

 
 I used this tuner with Drake C-Lines through Yaesu
 FT-1000D.  It never complained after I removed that
 toroid.  Honestly, it you want a balanced-line tuner
 for 80-10, look for a Johnson KW Matchbox.  If you need
 balanced for High-power 160, you'd better roll your own.


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-03 Thread K9sqg
Considering how easy it is to build a tuner for 160, even a double balanced one 
for open wire feedline, not sure who would want to butcher a classic tuner and 
lower the value by 50%.  Then again, that happens frequently when you see all 
the pilot lights, switches, repaints, etc. of vintage gear on Upay.  As to the 
limited matching range of the Johnson Matchbox, I've never had a problem in 
that area.  It is indeed hard to determine the matching range of a tuner 
because the specs generally don't state the matching range or, if they do, they 
typically only give the resistive component and not the reactive component; it 
is the latter that is the gotcha.


Enjoy those Drakes...



-Original Message-
From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net; BARS w...@yahoogroups.com; k4eg 
k...@yahoogroups.com; Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2011 7:18 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)


There is a rather straight forward mod for the Johnsons to allow them to cover 
160.  Somewhere I have the article.  Does require some work and potentially a 
12volt supply if you use relays vs switches.  Unfortunately, it mods/butchers a 
classic tuner unit, but if you can stand doing that.

 
 I used this tuner with Drake C-Lines through Yaesu
 FT-1000D.  It never complained after I removed that
 toroid.  Honestly, it you want a balanced-line tuner
 for 80-10, look for a Johnson KW Matchbox.  If you need
 balanced for High-power 160, you'd better roll your own.


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-03 Thread Ron
Mine came butchered.  I didn't care, it was so scratched that I just pained it 
black to closer match the Drakes I use it with. I had to figure out what had 
been done with it.  I never run 160, but never took the mods off either.  

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Mon, 10/3/11, Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net wrote:

From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)
To: K9sqg k9...@aol.com, wd8...@yahoo.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net, 
w...@yahoogroups.com, k...@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, October 3, 2011, 12:18 PM


#yiv265622571 {font-family:Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, 
sans-serif;font-size:9pt;background-color:#ff;color:black;}

Yeah, I've seen various mods for adding 160, but they're compromises and - as 
mentioned here - they butcher the tuner.  Those mods are best left for a real 
dog that you might find - one that has half the paint already flaked off or was 
previously re-painted/butchered by a PO.  ;-)
W1ES
-Original Message- 
From: K9sqg 
Sent: Oct 3, 2011 12:12 PM 
To: wd8...@yahoo.com, drakelist@zerobeat.net, w...@yahoogroups.com, 
k...@yahoogroups.com, w1es1...@earthlink.net 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) 

Considering how easy it is to build a tuner for 160, even a double balanced one 
for open wire feedline, not sure who would want to butcher a classic tuner and 
lower the value by 50%.  Then again, that happens frequently when you see all 
the pilot lights, switches, repaints, etc. of vintage gear on Upay.  As to the 
limited matching range of the Johnson Matchbox, I've never had a problem in 
that area.  It is indeed hard to determine the matching range of a tuner 
because the specs generally don't state the matching range or, if they do, they 
typically only give the resistive component and not the reactive component; it 
is the latter that is the gotcha. 


Enjoy those Drakes...



-Original Message-
From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com
To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net; BARS w...@yahoogroups.com; k4eg 
k...@yahoogroups.com; Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
Sent: Mon, Oct 3, 2011 7:18 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)


There is a rather straight forward mod for the Johnsons to allow them to cover 
160.  Somewhere I have the article.  Does require some work and potentially a 
12volt supply if you use relays vs switches.  Unfortunately, it mods/butchers a 
classic tuner unit, but if you can stand doing that.

 
 I used this tuner with Drake C-Lines through Yaesu
 FT-1000D.  It never complained after I removed that
 toroid.  Honestly, it you want a balanced-line tuner
 for 80-10, look for a Johnson KW Matchbox.  If you need
 balanced for High-power 160, you'd better roll your own.


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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-02 Thread Clutter
I have a Drake R-4C with several of the Sherwood mods. It came to me
in non-working condition. The radio looks pretty clean, BTW, but the
PD-4 board was removed from the receiver, for some reason. The
installation of the mods looks a little rough, i.e. probably not done
by Sherwood. I could dope out a schematic of the PD-4 on my own, but
really don't know how the radio got modded in the area of the product
detector to hook this PCB up. I'd appreciate it if someone could
share that info with me- schematics, pictorials, or written
instructions. This PD-4 may be an older type? It has the TL442CN IC.
I saw some internet notes by Bob Sherwood in which a different IC
type was mentioned. This PD-4 has a 14 pin DIP. Recent Sherwood
photos of the PD-4 show an 8 pin mini-DIP.

Thanks, 73, David K3KY

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-10-02 Thread Steve Wedge

Hi, everyone -

Everyone on HF eventually needs a good high-power tuner (unless you're 
operating QRP, but even then, the high-power tuners have the least loss). 
What I have right now that may interest you is a Murch UT-2000B.  This is a 
roller-inductor transmatch that does 160-10m.  The caps are large as well. 
The only caveat is that the toroid that used to be in it for balanced line 
was removed due to its being zorched when I tried stuffing 1500W through it. 
The rest of the tuner will handle 1500W whilst barely breaking a sweat on 
80-10.  I'd keep it under 750W on 160.  $130 + shipping.  It's pretty light.


I used this tuner with Drake C-Lines through Yaesu FT-1000D.  It never 
complained after I removed that toroid.  Honestly, it you want a 
balanced-line tuner for 80-10, look for a Johnson KW Matchbox.  If you need 
balanced for High-power 160, you'd better roll your own.


Email me.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto. 



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-08-19 Thread sebdesnCC
Interesting thing ,the last 2 or3 do not have the info on the bottom.wonder
why???

Bud W0HG

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-08-19 Thread Don Cunningham
Oops, you are sure right, Bud!!  Man, am I wrong twice in the same evening  
New high for me.  (or low)??  I think the rules are the same though, just 
follow the Drakelist link.
73,
Don___
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-07-20 Thread Neil M Califano
Continuation from last night:

If I attempt to run a R4A from a pure sine wave 130 watt inverter, can I ruin 
the inverter or just blow a fuse? If it's just a fuse, I give it a try.

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-06-21 Thread Wolfgang (VK3WY)
Does anyone know if Toni Mills the man who sells front panel is still in 
business need one for the R-4C  T-4CX.

Thanks all

73, Wolf VK3WY___
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-06-05 Thread sebdesnCC
Am I the only one who is getting lots of duplicate posts from the list
,(same sent  times??? May be my stupid mail program??

 

Bud W0HG  

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-24 Thread tross
Thanks to everyone for the overwhelming response for my Drake equipment. 
Everything is sold with the exception of a FF-1 fixed frequency adapter. 
Asking 45 shipped.
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-22 Thread tross

Found a couple of more items.
TR4C Chassis. No tubes otherwise complete. Was a working rig. 75.00  OBO

FF-1 Fixed Frequency Adapter. average condition, as is.  45.00 OBO

Spoken for. Thanks Ron. WB1HGA1- TR4 Very close to collectors quality. 
Comes with speaker, power supply and Ext. VFO.
Fully tested and is fully operational. Tubes tested, controls cleaned etc. NICE 
radio

1-TR-4 working but will need to be cleaned (controls etc). Tubes should be 
tested and may need alignment. This has speaker and power supply. Only thing 
tested was operation. It is working.  200.00 OBO

1-TR4C NICE radio, tubes have been tested and bad ones replaced. Controls 
cleaned with De-oxit, should be aligned. Has speaker and power supply.  300.00 
OBO

Spoken for. Thanks  John, KB9PBM1- Stock C-Line with power supply and 
speaker. This is a working station. Could use the usual cleaning ext. Station 
shows well and works the same.

Make me an offer on one or all.cash, trade dicker whatever.
After re-doing 12 or so of these stations I decided I don't need any more 
projects, so they gotta go.
Everything plus shipping.

73
Terry
W2TGR
WWW.3955.US

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-09 Thread Eric Berty
The best place where you can find everything you need!... 
http://roxanarao.com.ar/links.php?zegoogleId=04e4
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-08 Thread Neil M Califano
It depends.  If there are interfering stations nearby, it would help to have a 
narrow filter.  If clear conditions, an 8 kc filter would improve the fidelity.

Do you mean an 8 pole filter or an 8 khz filter? Why would 8 pole be 8 kc?



  

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-06 Thread Neil M Califano
All Drake Q-multipliers worked with the IF frequency.  The q-multiplier 
cabinets also typically had a speaker in them for the rig.

Was a cable run from the 2-AQ to the receiver? Where did it plug in? 


  

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-06 Thread Steve Berg

It plugs into a 4 pin socket on the back of the receiver.

On 3/6/2011 7:10 PM, Neil M Califano wrote:

All Drake Q-multipliers worked with the IF frequency.  The q-multiplier cabinets 
also typically had a speaker in them for the rig.

Was a cable run from the 2-AQ to the receiver? Where did it plug in?




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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-06 Thread Ron
They went into a 4-pin socket similar to the calibrator socket, only on the 
back apron of the radio (at least this is where it is on the 2B).

--- On Sun, 3/6/11, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote:

 From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject)
 To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Sunday, March 6, 2011, 8:10 PM
 All Drake Q-multipliers worked with
 the IF frequency.  The q-multiplier cabinets also
 typically had a speaker in them for the rig.
 
 Was a cable run from the 2-AQ to the receiver? Where did it
 plug in? 
 
 
       
 
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-02-26 Thread Joseph Moore

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-12-01 Thread Chuck Pool
Hi to all Drake fans:
Do you think the Drake R-4C could be modified to accommodate one of these two 
class A audio amps and the graphic equalizer?
At present I don't have the schematics for these products.
Here are the three links to look at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Valve-Class-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-pre-Bravo-V2-/260697180184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cb2c34818#ht_5958wt_1140

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bravo-V1-Kopfhorerverstarker-Tube-Class-Rohr-GE1-/260701027235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77hash=item3cb2fdfba3#ht_6316wt_1140

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bravo-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-V3-EQ-Equalizer-valve-US-/260677485333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cb196c315#ht_3975wt_1176
73,Chuck - AA5WGCedar, Michigan U.S.A.


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-12-01 Thread Paul Christensen
Chuck,

My plan is to bring audio out to an unused RCA jack that can be restored later 
if necessary.  I have a modified Marantz 1030 integrated amp.  It's modified so 
that the balance control is now a fader control.  The MONO button bridges the 
two channels together.  Why would I do this?  Part of the same plan is to slave 
another R-4C using the VFO from the first R-4C.  This will alow for true 
diversity reception and also offer an other DX split option.  Clifton labs 
buffer amps will isolate the VFO lines.

I'll tap the high side of the existing R-4C AF controls with a 1 uF cap to the 
Marantz 1030 where its input Z is about 2K ohm.  In addition to being a Hi-Fi 
amp, the Marantz will form the control center for the two R-4Cs.

For your purpose, I would also tap the high side of the R-4C AF control with a 
1 uF cap on its way out the back to the Hi-Fi amp of your choice.  If you still 
want to use the R-4C AF control, simply tap the coupling cap to the AF 
control's wiper arm.  Just ensure that the amp has a moderately high input Z.  
Most consumer equipment uses a Z of about 2k ohm.  The lower the input Z of the 
amp, the larger the coupling cap value required.

Paul, W9AC   
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Pool 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 11:55 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject)


Hi to all Drake fans:


Do you think the Drake R-4C could be modified to accommodate one of 
these two class A audio amps and the graphic equalizer?


At present I don't have the schematics for these products.


Here are the three links to look at:



http://cgi.ebay.com/Valve-Class-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-pre-Bravo-V2-/260697180184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cb2c34818#ht_5958wt_1140





http://cgi.ebay.com/Bravo-V1-Kopfhorerverstarker-Tube-Class-Rohr-GE1-/260701027235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77hash=item3cb2fdfba3#ht_6316wt_1140





http://cgi.ebay.com/Bravo-Tube-Headphone-Amplifier-V3-EQ-Equalizer-valve-US-/260677485333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cb196c315#ht_3975wt_1176


73,
Chuck - AA5WG
Cedar, Michigan U.S.A. 




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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-11-27 Thread Al Parker

Tom,
	You won't get output in the non-X posn. in Tune or CW modes, only in 
SSB.  That's the way it is.  Do you get output in the non-X posn on SSB 
when you whistle into the mic?  If so, then things are OK.  If not, then 
maybe a filter is bad, or the carrier osc. is not centered properly.

73,
Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

On 11/26/2010 10:53 PM, pony...@aol.com wrote:

Back again,
Howdy folks
I recently posted a note about my broken TR-3, got a couple suggestions,
followed through, and a little life is being observed. I had already
gone through the band switch with a fine tooth comb. Since then, I
cleaned the Mode switch, and checked the 9 Mhz oscillator. I now have
output (somewhat) on all bands. My new problem is that I only get output
when the sideband switch is in the X position. Is it possible that the
Crystal filter within has gone bad? If that's the case, is there a
possibility that someone may have one for sale?
Thanks for reading this Tom Maguire, WD8JPP



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-09-29 Thread Hunter Ellington
I must be fairly lucky.  I've shipped through UPS for years and have not had 
any 
problem.  We have a local UPS Store here that does an exceptional job packing 
radios. Every time I have shipped a rig, the recipients always comment on the 
great packaging.  On another note, I was looking at Rob Sherwood's Receiver 
data 
and noticed that the TR7 and R7 seem to be about equivalent in receiver 
performance. Am I correct in this assumption, assuming that the two rigs are 
equivalently equipped?

 K0GFY  R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118



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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-09-29 Thread Jim Shorney
On Wed, 29 Sep 2010 13:58:34 -0700 (PDT), Hunter Ellington wrote:

 I was looking at Rob Sherwood's Receiver data and noticed that the TR7 and R7 
 seem to be about equivalent in receiver performance. Am I correct in this 
 assumption, assuming that the two rigs are equivalently equipped?


I would say so, since the RF strips are almost identical up to the 2nd IF/Audio
Board - which adds a 50 KHz third IF.

73

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-08-05 Thread Francis Surovec
How do you post to this list?


  


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-08-05 Thread Don Cunningham
You just did, Francis.  It's as simple as addressing your email to 
drakel...@zerobeat.net.  It's nice to put a subject line in though, as some 
on the list delete all messages with no subject.  Welcome to the list.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-06-20 Thread Hunter Ellington
Happy Father's Day to the list.  I acquired a pristine Drake R-7.  I am looking 
for the matching speaker.  Does anyone have one they would part with?  
Alternatively, can anyone tell me what they go for these days?  I looked at 
Ebay, but there were no listings.  Thanks to all.

 WB9NJB R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-06-15 Thread Hunter Ellington
Good evening to the list.  I am a returning member with a question.  I just 
acquired a nice FS-4, but it did not come with the injection cable.  Will a 24 
run of RG8X terminated with RCA plugs work for this purpose?

 WB9NJB R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118



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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-06-07 Thread nu7z
Hey Don, and to the Group -- 

Funny Story - but a good one too. 

Often times, in the past I have questioned why I have more than one radio - 
setting
here in the radio room, gathering dust, when I turn on my ole' favorite to 
chase DX 
on CW or to listen to the 3915 swap net on Sunday Morning. 

But then I realize that there is comfort in having two of the same radios, for 
many 
reasons. The one that sticks out the most is that I can monitor two of my 
favorite bands at the same
time and I will not be off the air if something goes wrong. 

And that I don't have that much tied up in either one of the radios so I can 
enjoy them both knowing 
that the newer ones cost much more. 

Just a thought or two -- Enjoy 

Rick NU7Z

 

 


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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2010-04-16 Thread n...@juno.com
Hi,

Does anyone know of a source for plastic feet of the type used on the Drake 4 
series?  I'm looking for the type held on by a screw in the center.

Thanks,  John NT8C


Penny Stock Jumping 2000%
Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc89ae5623302ab88cst03vuc

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-12-28 Thread Carlos Eduardo

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-12-23 Thread Garey Barrell

Chuck -

No, that is not right.   I would suggest checking the setting of the 
Preselector end to end travel and the adjustment of the slugs in the 
moveable rack.  The dimensions are given in the manual, and are measured 
from the top edge of the white coil form.


The typical situation is that the 10M trimmer caps are too loose, 
resulting in the alignment changing from the bump turning the chassis 
over!  The fix here is the same, check those slug positions.


Highly unlikely, but I have seen at least one case where someone had 
swapped the wrong slug rack into a transmitter.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Chuck Pool wrote:

Hi to all:
This is a T4X-C question.  I have a C-Line and I am giving the T-4XC 
an alignment(R-4C too).
(1)  80 meters challenge:  80 meters has lower output than all the 
other bands.  I noticed three of the four alignment trimmer capacitors 
on the left side of radio (T-4XC) are cranked tight as can be.  The 
trimmer/alignment capacitor closest to front of radio seems normal.  
It is not cranked tight.  With the other tree trimmers it as if one 
cannot reduce capacitance enough to raise the output power.  When I 
finally got these three trimmers unstuck, from being over tighten, the 
power output went down to effectively nothing.  I cannot get any power 
out unless these three timmer capacitors are over tightened.  This is 
not correct.

Any ideas what I can do to fix this?
73,
Chuck - AA5WG
Cedar, Michigan





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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-12-22 Thread Chuck Pool
Hi to all:
This is a T4X-C question.  I have a C-Line and I am giving the T-4XC an 
alignment    (R-4C too).
 
(1)  80 meters challenge:  80 meters has lower output than all the other 
bands.  I noticed three of the four alignment trimmer capacitors on the left 
side of radio (T-4XC) are cranked tight as can be.  The trimmer/alignment 
capacitor closest to front of radio seems normal.  It is not cranked tight.  
With the other tree trimmers it as if one cannot reduce capacitance enough to 
raise the output power.  When I finally got these three trimmers unstuck, from 
being over tighten, the power output went down to effectively nothing.  I 
cannot get any power out unless these three timmer capacitors are over 
tightened.  This is not correct. 
 
Any ideas what I can do to fix this?  
 
73,
Chuck - AA5WG
Cedar, Michigan
 
 
 


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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-08-23 Thread roger williams


  ROGER DALE WILLIAMS
  HI, I HAVE SOME DRAKE RADIOS THAT I WOULD LIKE TO REPAINT! CAN ANYONE TELL ME 
WHERE I CAN FIND PAINT THAT WILL CLOSELY MATCH? THE RADIOS ARE A 2-B R4-A AND 
T4X. THANKS AND 73 ROGER



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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-08-23 Thread Al Parker

Hi Roger,
   Rustoleum V Satin Black is a good match for the twins.  IIRC, the 2B 
has a  non-satin finish, but V is close.  There's a Krylon Semi-Flat 
Black that might be better for it, it's good for older Hallicrafters rcvrs, 
before the SX-101's.

73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.

  Ratty, to Mole


- Original Message - 
From: roger williams radior...@yahoo.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 1:06 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject)





 ROGER DALE WILLIAMS
 HI, I HAVE SOME DRAKE RADIOS THAT I WOULD LIKE TO REPAINT! CAN ANYONE 
TELL ME WHERE I CAN FIND PAINT THAT WILL CLOSELY MATCH? THE RADIOS ARE A 
2-B R4-A AND T4X. THANKS AND 73 ROGER












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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-08-01 Thread Tom Laszynski

Hello,

I need a bottom cabinet cover for a Drake R-4B.  I do have two extra 
cabinets on hand that are the same physical size.  These have 
differient side cut-outs (notches for controls) that will not fit my 
R-4B's chassis.  As a last resort, I could modify one of these bases 
to fit my R-4B. I would, however, prefer to buy or trade for an 
original bottom cover.  Can anybody help me?


73,

Tom, K8JRM


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Kris Merschrod
This is a low tech and improvised approach.  Use a small, low CF/min  muffin 
Fan from a computer; put some rubber pads on it so that it will exhaust upward 
and set the fan on top of the cabinet above the final tubes. 

Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
(607) 257-1734

www.merschrod.net (Site for reviewing the highlights of my book)
 A Sociology: The dynamics of collectivities
 and their application to social change and development 
  - Original Message - 
  From: yellowbankslady 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 6:58 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] (no subject)


  I'm looking for a fan to install on the back of my TR4 to keep the tubes cool.
  Thanks
  Bill


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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Robert Ladden

That is what I do. I use a 24VDC computer fan and run it at 12VDC. Effective 
and quiet. Be sure to have it blow upward.

73,
Bob WW3QB

--- On Fri, 5/29/09, Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net wrote:

 From: Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)  cooling fan for Drakes
 To: yellowbankslady yeloe...@frontiernet.net, drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Friday, May 29, 2009, 9:18 AM
 
 
  
  
 
 
  
 This is a low tech and
 improvised approach.  
 Use a small, low CF/min  muffin Fan from a
 computer; put some rubber pads 
 on it so that it will exhaust upward and set the fan on top
 of the cabinet above 
 the final tubes. 
  
 Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
 123 Warren Road
 Ithaca, NY 14850
 (607) 
 257-1734
  
 www.merschrod.net (Site
 for 
 reviewing the highlights of my book)
  A Sociology: The dynamics of 
 collectivities
  and their application to social change and
 development 
 
 
   - Original Message
 - 
   From: 
   yellowbankslady
 
   To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 
   Sent: Thursday, May
 28, 2009 6:58 
 PM
   Subject: [Drakelist]
 (no subject)
   
 
   I'm looking for a
 fan to install on the back of 
   my TR4 to keep the tubes cool.
   Thanks
   Bill
   
   
 
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   list
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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Kris Merschrod
Yes, by all means draw the heat away.  I was lucky enough to find a 115V AC 
muffin fan and just put it into the power strip.  I like Bob's 12 V  into a 
24 V for slower motion.  It really does not take much movement to do the 
job.


Although I have not tried it, you could probably put the fan on the side or 
back to draw away the air, but improving natural convection seems more 
intuitive.  Let's face it, these rigs have been used for decades w/o fans 
and survived!  Making them more comfortable in old-age seems appropriate :)


Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
(607) 257-1734

www.merschrod.net (Site for reviewing the highlights of my book)
 A Sociology: The dynamics of collectivities
and their application to social change and development
- Original Message - 
From: Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com
To: yellowbankslady yeloe...@frontiernet.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net; 
Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net

Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes




That is what I do. I use a 24VDC computer fan and run it at 12VDC. 
Effective and quiet. Be sure to have it blow upward.


73,
Bob WW3QB

--- On Fri, 5/29/09, Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net wrote:


From: Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)  cooling fan for Drakes
To: yellowbankslady yeloe...@frontiernet.net, drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Friday, May 29, 2009, 9:18 AM







This is a low tech and
improvised approach.
Use a small, low CF/min  muffin Fan from a
computer; put some rubber pads
on it so that it will exhaust upward and set the fan on top
of the cabinet above
the final tubes.

Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
123 Warren Road
Ithaca, NY 14850
(607)
257-1734

www.merschrod.net (Site
for
reviewing the highlights of my book)
 A Sociology: The dynamics of
collectivities
 and their application to social change and
development


  - Original Message
- 
  From:

  yellowbankslady

  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net

  Sent: Thursday, May
28, 2009 6:58
PM
  Subject: [Drakelist]
(no subject)


  I'm looking for a
fan to install on the back of
  my TR4 to keep the tubes cool.
  Thanks
  Bill



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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Eugene Balinski
A 220VAC run on 120V will do the same trick. Moves air and
is relatively quiet.  Lots of 220V fans at the flea markets
for cheap.  

Fans should generally be mounted in such a manner as to
take advantage of any natural convection.  A perfect
location is above the cage for the finals pulling the air
up from the final and exhausting up, and not blowing down. 

73
Gene K1NR

On Fri, 29 May 2009 12:32:55 -0400
 Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net wrote:
 Yes, by all means draw the heat away.  I was lucky enough
 to find a 115V AC muffin fan and just put it into the
 power strip.  I like Bob's 12 V  into a 24 V for slower
 motion.  It really does not take much movement to do the
 job.
 
 Although I have not tried it, you could probably put the
 fan on the side or back to draw away the air, but
 improving natural convection seems more intuitive.  Let's
 face it, these rigs have been used for decades w/o fans
 and survived!  Making them more comfortable in old-age
 seems appropriate :)
 
 Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
 123 Warren Road
 Ithaca, NY 14850
 (607) 257-1734
 
 www.merschrod.net (Site for reviewing the highlights of
 my book)
  A Sociology: The dynamics of collectivities
  and their application to social change and development
 - Original Message - From: Robert Ladden
 rmlad...@yahoo.com
 To: yellowbankslady yeloe...@frontiernet.net;
 drakelist@zerobeat.net; Kris Merschrod
 k...@merschrod.net
 Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 9:55 AM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for
 Drakes
 
 
 
  That is what I do. I use a 24VDC computer fan and run
 it at 12VDC. 
  Effective and quiet. Be sure to have it blow upward.
 
  73,
  Bob WW3QB
 
  --- On Fri, 5/29/09, Kris Merschrod
 k...@merschrod.net wrote:
 
  From: Kris Merschrod k...@merschrod.net
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)  cooling fan for
 Drakes
  To: yellowbankslady yeloe...@frontiernet.net,
 drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Date: Friday, May 29, 2009, 9:18 AM
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  This is a low tech and
  improvised approach.
  Use a small, low CF/min  muffin Fan from a
  computer; put some rubber pads
  on it so that it will exhaust upward and set the fan
 on top
  of the cabinet above
  the final tubes.
 
  Kris  KA2OIG Merschrod
  123 Warren Road
  Ithaca, NY 14850
  (607)
  257-1734
 
  www.merschrod.net (Site
  for
  reviewing the highlights of my book)
   A Sociology: The dynamics of
  collectivities
   and their application to social change and
  development
 
 
- Original Message
  - 
From:
yellowbankslady
 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 
Sent: Thursday, May
  28, 2009 6:58
  PM
Subject: [Drakelist]
  (no subject)
 
 
I'm looking for a
  fan to install on the back of
my TR4 to keep the tubes cool.
Thanks
Bill
 
 
 
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list
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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Gary Poland
Mount a small 3 inch 12 volt fan on the back of the PA cage, the holes match up 
without any modification to the cage. Take 12 ac from the filament supply 
somewhere under the chassis and run it through a diode to a small electrolytic. 
The size of the electrolytic will actually decide the fan speed. This is a neat 
installation that works great and the fan shuts on/off with the transmitter.

73, Gary___
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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject) cooling fan for Drakes

2009-05-29 Thread Jim Shorney
On Fri, 29 May 2009 17:26:18 -0400, Gary Poland wrote:

Mount a small 3 inch 12 volt fan on the back of the PA cage, the holes match 
up without any modification to the cage. Take 12 ac from the filament supply 
somewhere under the chassis and run it through a diode to a small 
electrolytic. The size of the electrolytic will actually decide the fan speed. 
This is a neat installation that works great and the fan shuts on/off with the 
transmitter. 


Been there, done that, works great!

Ball bearing fans recommended; cheap sleeve bearing fans fail early and
often. Panasonic Panaflo are the cat's meow.

73

-Jim

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TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

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will learn for a lifetime.

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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-05-28 Thread yellowbankslady
I'm looking for a fan to install on the back of my TR4 to keep the tubes cool.
Thanks
Bill___
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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2009-04-22 Thread Dirk Matuska
Hello, I just received two tr4's a tr4 and a tr4c.  tr4 has a 1/4 mic jack, 
tr4c has the stock jack.  I'm looking to get them on the air so I need 
microphones for both of them all-the-while wanting good audio.  Any good ideas 
let me know  I'm new to the Drake sport any information at this point is 
useful.  Thanks in advance


Dirk A. Matuska
W9OSI 73's


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[Drakelist] (no subject)

2008-09-11 Thread Boyd Van Horn
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RE: [drakelist] (no subject)

2006-01-21 Thread Lanny Rathert
Title: Message



John has a new email address.: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Lanny N0JZ

  
  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 
  2:33 PMTo: drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSubject: 
  [drakelist] (no subject)
  Could someone recommend a repair facility or repairman for a Drake TR7A 
  which has just recently failed to transmit.
  
  Someone recommended John Kriner but email to him have been 
returned.
  
  Thanks, Randy KC2LLV


[drakelist] (no subject)

2005-11-14 Thread N9PTZ Dan


N9PTZ Dan [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Thanks everyone. All of the gear is sold,  again thanks.
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Re: [drakelist] (no subject)

2005-09-27 Thread Lars E. Pettersson


Lars E. Pettersson [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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On 09/27/2005 12:09 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I acquired a mint TR7A. However, it did not come with a power supply. I 
have an opportunity to purchase a PS7 in good condition or a PS75 in 
mint condition. I am told that both PS will work and are equivalent in 
output.


For the TR7/TR7A I would chose the PS7. PS75 have lower ratings, 15A 
continous, 25A peak. The PS7 have 25A continous, don't remeber the peak.


PS75 works very well with the Drake TR5 though, that have lower power 
output than the TR7.


For more information (manuals) look at:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeManuals/PS7/Manual_PS7.htm
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeManuals/PS75/Manual_PS75.htm

73 de Lars, sm6rpz
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http://www.sm6rpz.se/
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Re: [drakelist] (no subject)

2005-09-27 Thread Fernando

Hi Randy!
There are some substantial differences between the PS7 and the PS75. Basically, PS7 will deliver25A, and PS75 just 15A. I have pasted below the general descriptions of both, for reference.
If I was you, I would go for the PS7. If you are not completely happy with the cosmetics, I don't think restoring it should be abig problem, and it can be fun too. Check if it comes with a cooling fan, which is an interesting option tothat power supply.

Hope this is useful
73
Fernando, EA4BB

The PS-7 is a 13.6 volt DC regulated power supply capable of delivering up to 25 amps of continuous current. Excellent voltage regulation is provided by a silicon monolithic integrated circuit and associated circuitry. Output voltage and current are adjustable with internal controls which have been factory set, to provide 
13.6 volts at up to 25 amps. Other features include short circuit and over voltage protection and programmable primary voltages.An auxiliary 13.6 VDC output is provided on the rear panel and is fused internally at 1 amp. Primary voltages of 100, 120, 200, and 240 VAC, 5O-60 Hz may be used with the PS-7 and may be quickly changed via the programming switches. For demanding duty cycles, such as extended RTTY or SSTV transmission, the model 1529 
FA-7 Cooling Fan is recommended for additional cooling, especially at ambient temperatures above 25°C. When the PS-7 is subjected to a current overload or short circuit condition, the regulator circuit Will automatically shut down. The unit may be reset by momentarily switching the ON-OFF switch on the TR-7 to OFF or by removing the AC primary voltage to the PS-7. The power transformer is protected by an 8 ampere type MDL fuse on primary voltages of 100 or 120 VAC or a 4 ampere type MDL fuse on 200 or 240 VAC. Refer to Figure 1 for location on the rear panel. This fuse should be replaced with another fuse of the same type and rating. The auxiliary DC output is internally
 fused with a 1 amp type MDL fuse. This is located inside the unit, on the regulator P.C. board. This fuse should be replaced only with another fuse of the same type and rating.
 

The PS-75 is a high current, 13.6 VDC power supply for use with solid state transceivers in CW or SSB modes. The supply operates from a primary voltage of 100,
 120,200 or 240 VAC, 50-60 Hz (switch programmed), and provides 15 amperes continuous at an unregulated voltage of 13.6 VDC (nominal) for use with solid state power amplifiers and a 
3 ampere regulated out-put for use with the remainder of the transceiver. In addition, a regulated 13.6 VDC at 1 ampere is provided 
for auxiliary equipment. The supply was designed primarily for SSB operation at current levels of 15 amperes average and 25 amperes peak but Will also provide reliable performance
 on CW at current levels of up to 25 amperes. Some CW signal quality degradation due to the increased ripple may be noticed at CW power levels
 which exceed 15 amperes current drain (usually about 75 watts).



On 9/27/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi,

I acquired a mint TR7A. However, it did not come with a power supply. I have an opportunity to purchase a PS7 in good condition or a PS75 in mint condition. I am told that both PS will work and are equivalent in output.


I would appreciate any advise.

Thanks, Randy KC2LLV


Re: [drakelist] (no subject)

2005-09-27 Thread Don and Diana Cunningham



I would recommend the PS7. Very good supply, 
with common parts if it needs repair.
73,
Don, WB5HAK


[drakelist] (no subject)

2005-09-26 Thread AgentRF



Hi,

I acquired a mint TR7A. However, it did not come with a power supply. 
I have an opportunity to purchase a PS7 in good condition or a PS75 in mint 
condition. I am told that both PS will work and are equivalent in output.

I would appreciate any advise.

Thanks, Randy KC2LLV


[drakelist] (no subject)

2005-08-27 Thread AgentRF



Hi Guys,

I have an otherwise mint MN75 but it is missing the chrome knob insert on 
the AF switch (smaller of the two inserts that the sets use). Anyone have a 
source for getting replacements.

Thanks,

Randy F/KC2LLV


[drakelist] (no subject)

2004-11-02 Thread billgoodwin
billgoodwin [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
I am trying to get my old TR4 back on the air. I seem to be putting out
a good rf as shown on my old Philmore SWR meter but am told that my audio
is extremely weak and hardly understandable. I lost the Electrostatic mic
that came with the rig and replaced it with a Kenwood MC50. I notice the
manual says a Switchcraft s-230 plug is required. The chap who sold me
the mic did not use this  plug. He responded to a question as to plug
compatibility as follows
The plug I used on the MC-50 is a standard PJ-068 military plug that was
used by Uncle Sam on Drake and Collins rigs, and has worked fine thru
the years.  There is a switch on the microphone itself that needs to be
ON, but I am sure you know that.  I didn't have a Drake rig to check the
mic on, but did check it on a scope, and there was output there.
Can any one help me re increasing audio signal, mic plug compatibility
or anything that will help me get a stronger audio.
Thanks
Bill
KD4FGU
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[drakelist] (no subject)

2004-04-04 Thread Tony Schroeder
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