Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote:
This discussion is boring:
Indeed.
The radio is as the radio is- If you don't like the way your radio is,
you can change the connectors to whatever you want, with a separate
Murphy-proof connector for the AUX bus. It would only take some trace
Brian,
I also notice that when I transmit now, I only get one LED at the far left of
the display to pop on...it used to show three or four...external meter shows
3w usually.
This is normal behaviour for a KX1 without the antenna tuner. Only with the
KXAT1 in place it displays power output with
I agree.
Is anyone else having trouble bringing up the Elecraft website? For the last
few days, when I go to the site it takes several minutes to come up. If I go
to no frames it comes up a little faster but not much.
My ISP is Sprint/Embarq and they have been screwing with their internal
Brian,
If you have relays clicking and it attempts to tune, then the firmware chip
is likely just fine.
You said it failed after a storm, which gives me cause to believe that the
two diodes in the wattmeter should be replaced. Put new 1N5711s in the D1
and D2 positions and I would believe the
Hello All,
I'm looking at two devices, primarily for contest use:
MixW and Rigblaster Pro. Has anyone used either with
the K2 (and maybe N1MM)?
Thanks,
Julius
n2wn
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Don,
Thanks for the tip. I'll take a look at those. I was operating mobile with the
KX1 and drove through a pretty strong thunderstorm, I was using a Anttron
Hamwhip for 20m on the trunk mount.
I did not build this KX1 or the KXAT1, I bought it from another ham and it was
working great until the
Hi all,
I will be passing my morse code exam soon and I was looking for the best
radio to start with for CW. Up to now I'm pretty sure I will go with the K2.
I just wanted to know if any special tools are required to complete the kit?
I'm aware of what they say in the advertisement... But
Another silly question: Just how many devices can I
daisy chain from the K2 Serial Port?
Currently, I just use the KAT100 and my computers, but
soon I will need to connect the KRC2 and the
controller for a SteppIr.
Will I need to do anything special or ???
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 08:12:18 -0600
From: Phil Townsend [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [QRP-L] Wayne...Eric...K2 with USB anytime soon??
To: n0tu/Steve [EMAIL PROTECTED], qrp-l [EMAIL PROTECTED],
ElecraftLIST elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain;
The KRC2 is an inline device, it has 2 DB9's on it. You cable from the
K2 to the KRC2, then from KRC2 to downstream serial stuff like
computer. I believe you cable to the KAT100 in parallel with the KRC2
.. check the KRC2 manual. I think you'll need a seperate serial port
for the steppir
Good luck on FD, Keith.
Hope you don't contact too many silent keys.
The Element should do well for you.
I've not yet used my Element for field ops.
Have fun!
John
AB8WH
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You must be a
Julius,
The K2 does not have a Serial Port - it has an AUX I/O connector. Not to
belabor the point, but there is a BIG difference (see prior posts).
The real answer depends on the signal lines that are connected and the cable
distance between them. No one answer applies to all, it is signal
. The cemetery is on the top of a hill and has a good clear view in all
directions. Trees are tall, widely spaced and, unlike the local
forest, have no extra vegetation between them. Residents are
quite and tolerant.
LOL, guess by tolerant you are saying they (no longer) bitch about TVI
Dittos, Phil. It's way past time ALL ham gear manufacturers started to
realize that serial, and even parallel, ports are a thing of the past. The
more we let them know it, the sooner it will change. After 20% of the
industry makes the switch the rest will be forced to follow or loose their
I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD.
The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there
is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line
because next time I use the temporary antenna I may need more.
So what do I do with
Kieth,
Interesting battery carrier you have
there... hm
See ya on the air
--
__
___/ Chuck \_
| |
| www.aa8vs.org/aa8vs |
The pessimist complains
I would cut it to the length needed and save the left over piece. Ladder
line is very easy to splice back together.
73/72 - Mike WA8BXN
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The battery comparisons page has been updated with more variety in types of
batteries:
http://www.ae5x.com/batts.htm
John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com
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You must be a
Keith KD1E asked:
I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD. The
antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there is no
way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line because next
time I use the temporary antenna I may need more.
So
My wife's Honda Element doesn't have the roof rack. However there are
small panels, just a couple inches on a side, in the roof area, that
cover the places where the rack would attach. When you remove these
covers you will find captive nuts (8 mm ?) that are to be used to hold
the roof rack. :-) I
Don W3FPR wrote:
Yes there is one 'tool' that is assumed for the alignment steps, and that
is
a dummy load. Every hamshack should have one. If you don't have one
already, I suggest the Elecraft DL1.
-
Also very useful
Keith:
If it is physically practical at your site, the best thing to do is
to have the long feed line meander (suspended in the air) along the
path from the antenna to the rig.
Laying it on the ground is not a good idea.
73,
Steve
AA4AK
At 09:53 AM 6/21/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote:
I
FS / Trade : IFR 1500 Service Monitor
I have an IFR 1500 Service Monitor for sale. The unit is
operational in all respects - BUT does not have a current calibration
certificate. In addition, the internal batteries no longer hold a
charge.
The 1500 incorporates 22 separate instruments
The current evolution of the RS-232 spec also now contains a pinout
for an RJ-45 8-pin modular connector. This connector is becoming very
popular in the telecom industry for serial port connections because
of its size. RJ-45s allow much high panel density that DE9
connectors, even though
Mini-Dins are simply not reliable. The connectors break all-too
easily, mostly due to the pins bending if the connectors are not
aligned just right. We intentionally moved away from them at Apple
because of this problem.
There really isn't a good connector solution at present. If you look
In message
[EMAIL PROTECTED],
Darwin, Keith [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
I just picked up a dipole fed with ladder line. Plan to use it for FD.
The antenna has 100 feet of parallel feed (window ladder line) and there
is no way I'll need that much. I don't want to cut the feed line
because next
IMHO the D connector is the best choice for reliability, short of the
Bendix circular type used on aircraft equipment, etc. (much too large
and expensive). The worst connector I have seen on ham gear was the
one used for the microphone on the Yaesu FT-730. I tried to repair a
mike cable
The latest copy of the spec I had was EIA-232-F. It did not specify the 8 pin
modular connector. EIA-561 covers the 8 position modular plug when using it in
an EIA-232 compatible system. RJ-45 (Registered Jack) is defined in FCC part
68 and is a whole other ball of wax!
Dave AA3EE
From:
On Monday 19 June 2006 22:53, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
As far as I know, there is NO such thing as a RS232 cable.
My several Amigas have a 25 pin 'serial' port.
There is also +/- 9v AC on a couple of pins to
power external equipment. It's welcome:
I designed my own midi interface using +9 AC
Hi Jean-Francois,
Congratulations on your upcoming passing of the CW exam. Also, I think
you've made a great choice in going with the K2, its a great rig.
I don't think that you need too many tools out of the ordinary to build the
K2, but it is certainly is a great opportunity (or excuse)
Hi Geoff,
Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a dummy
load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto tune into an
empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on.
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 1103
Also very useful when the rig is up and running. I'm not
Jean-Francois,
Of course, you don't need most of these neat things - I have a Panvise
(an old one) and found it not very useful because it wouldn't hold the board
once the components very close to the edge were put in. For de-soldering, I've
been using de-soldering wick, which looks
Tom WB2QDG wrote:
Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a
dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto
tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on.
---
Hi Tom,
I
Thank you all for your responses... You people are much helpful.
Jean-Francois VA2JFJ
On 6/21/06, Solosko, Robert B (Bob) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jean-Francois,
Of course, you don't need most of these neat things - I have a Panvise
(an old one) and found it not very useful because
Folks,
This revalation about the RJ-45 jack being used and defined for use as an
RS-232 connector amplifies my point. It is not reasonable to expect that
every RJ-45 jack is an RS-232 connector. We know that they are used for
Ethernet connectors, Yaesu uses them for microphone connectors, they
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi Geoff, Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I
also put a dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I
tried to auto tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on.
I have the dummy load in ANT1 of my KPA100, and the real ant
...ofter used in telephone systems, etc. - so just by looking at the jack,
it is not possible to identify its use and pinout.
Bingo. While I'm learning a lot about the difficulty of USB from this thread,
it's surprising how many technically savvy people here remind me of my
non-technical
One last point about our selection of a 9-pin D connector for this
function. Among available connectors, this type is both very familiar
and easy to work with. The mating connector has easily-accessed solder
cups for wire attachment; the pin numbers are labeled; backshells work
well, and allow
We've beat these topics to death. :-) Time to end the threads for now.
73, Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft List Moderator
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Hello all,
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1.
I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is
there any difference in performance in the two? I can work with either one but
would prefer the one with best performance.
Four problems with using an RJ-45 for the port on the K2:
- Only 8 wires
- Not shielded
- Could be mistaken for something else just as easily as a DB-9
And now the big one:
Crimping an RJ-45 plug requires a special tool (mine only cost $30), and
the plugs are one-shot items. DB-9 is no harder
The true correct answer is - both. I have both and find each has it's
place.
73 John
WA8KNE
Jim Murray wrote:
Hello all,
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or KX1.
I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and portability is
there any
I built the K1 first...used it a couple years, sold it, bought a already built
KX1.
Both are fantastic rigs. I miss my K1 and the 5w output though.
I think this fall I will buy another K1 and build it.
I will keep the KX1 for a long time, it fits in my shirt pocket...best camping
rig I have
Nick Waterman wrote:
I have the dummy load in ANT1 of my KPA100, and the real ant in
ANT2. I have this crazy idea that ANT1 is selected when powered
down, so I have just a teeny tiny bit more lightning protection
with the real ant disconnected, even if it's only a fraction of
a mm gap in a
Just my opinion, not looking for an argument (when I asked this question, it
was the many opinions that helped me decide mrore than the arguments over who
is more right):
I chose just the KX1 because I wanted an easily portable transciever. While
the K1 is that too, I liked the more
simple answer: K1
It goes everywhere, tunes to my portable antenna
or wire, I always make contacts with it, built-in
batts and auto tuner,
everybody I know who owns one sez it's their
favorite radio,
And, the number one reason:
I have fun with it!
(The auto tuner on KX1 is not as robust as
Jim, K2HN, asked:
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either a K1 or
KX1. I see most posts seem to refer to the KX1. Aside from size and
portability is there any difference in performance in the two? I can work
with either one but would prefer the one with best
On Wednesday 21 June 2006 19:50, Fred Jensen wrote:
Disconnect your K2. Disconnect all your gear. Unplug it from the surge
protectors in a thunderstorm.
Fred,
I agree on the first two, but not the third.
If I see thunderstorms predicted, or I predict a
local one myself, I will disconnect
At 12:43 PM 6/21/2006, Jack Brindle wrote...
The current evolution of the RS-232 spec also now contains a pinout
for an RJ-45 8-pin modular connector. ... RJ-45s allow much high panel density
that DE9
connectors, even though they have the problem of being the same as
those used for
KX1 has a synthesizer that does not drift, K1 has free running VFO. Its
really a toss up as to which rig overall is better.
73/72 - Mike WA8BXN
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I was wondering if any of you have replaced J3 (the Anderson Power Pole
Connectors) on a KPA100. The hot side (red) was slightly deformed when I did
not have a good connection and the connector heated up.. The black APP is OK.
Looking at the the instructions, it would mean taking the
I have a K1 (bought someone else's) and a KX1 (built it, added KXB3080 this
spring).
I won't part with either, they do different stuff.
The K1 is my all-time favorite radio, ever.
Before I had Elecraft rigs, I had a Wilderness Sierra that I built -- that was
my favorite before my K1. The K1
Jim wrote:
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either
a K1 or KX1. ... I can work with either one but would prefer the
one with best performance.
As far as RF performance only goes, the K1 is clearly superior.
(1) The K1 uses an LC VFO that is cleaner than the direct
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests
seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10,
14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when
transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14
and 21
One can dress the excess feeder over bushes, low tree limbs or most any
other support method to take up the excess feeder, if you do not want to cut
it.
However, cutting will in no way create a problem if later you need the cut
off length restored. You simply solder, or twist the ends, put a
Lee,
I would think you could remove the J3 connector from the top side of the
board.
Remove the connector mounting plates first, then heat the connection to the
PC board and you should be able to pry up and remove the ends of the 'L'
shaped conductor pieces from the board. You will have to
One other thing. When, for example, I tune on 14 MHz, then tune on 21 MHz,
then return to the same frequency on 14 MHz, the tuner doesn't seem to
remember the 14 MHz setting. The relays clatter a while as the algorithm
re-finds the best SWR. Is that right???
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1
On Jun 21, 2006, at 7:07 PM, Randy Moore wrote:
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the
tests
seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands
(7, 10,
14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when
transmitting into my attic
I just worked DQ2006S on 14006, with my KX1 (no ATU) at 2w and my attic
dipole.
He's still on the air.
This is a FIFA World Cup sepcial event station from Germany.
Kewl!
=
Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox!
http://www.hamradparts.com
Thanks Wayne! I hadn't noticed the BL2 before. I'll probably give that a
try. Meanwhile, I'll play with your other suggestions.
73,
Randy
Randy,
It's true that the KAT1 has a smaller reactance range than
the K2. This
was unavoidable given the limited PCB real estate.
Assuming all
After reading the comments... eventually I guess I will need to break down
and buy a K1 myself. I have been eyeing one up for quite some time. I don't
have enough time to finish up all the add-ons for the second K2 yet so it
will be a little while.
Bill
K9YEQ
K2-35 5279; KX1-35/3080
Now you guys are convincing me I should get a K1, too! Heck I don't even
have enough time to operate, but it sure is fun to build!
Bill
K9YEQ
K2-35 5279; KX1-35/3080
___
Jim wrote:
Have been thinking about getting my feet wet with building either
a K1
Maybe, for your line length, the 4:1 transformation is putting the
feedline input Z out of range of the K1 tuner on 40 and 30. It might
be fun to try switching to a 1:1 balun (or no balun at all) to just to
see what happens... since it's so easy to do. Beyond that,
experimenting with feedline
Brian Murrey wrote:
I just worked DQ2006S on 14006, with my KX1 (no ATU) at 2w and my attic
dipole.
He's still on the air.
This is a FIFA World Cup sepcial event station from Germany.
Kewl!
Hello Brian !
In a few hours I will be actif as DR2006E from the city of Hamburg with
my K2.
Hope
OT here, but I recently got a Watkins-Johnson 8709 and wow do I ever
love it! OK so the bottom case sheet metal is missing, gonna have to
replace that with something, and one of the pushbuttons came off and
fell on the floor this morning (I pushed it back onto its post) and
it's idea of a
Good point! I didn't actually mean as the T'storm is raining electrons
on you, but if the Triple Mega Viper Doppler Radar on the TV (don't
laugh, we have those here in the Colonies, we've come a long way since
Boston Harbor ... or maybe not) says it's about to be over you in 15
minutes, head
Just a quick correction:
Shielded RJ-45 cable and plugs exist and you can purchase them today. I
can't remember, but are all the pins used on the special cable that
connects the KIO2 to the computer? If not, then eight pins are plenty.
Since most everyone doesn't have an RJ-45 crimper - the
FB Martin!
I will be watching the matches in about 9 hours...Go USA Go Italy!
73
=
Radio Amateurs - Fill your junk box, from my junkbox!
http://www.hamradparts.com
73 de KB9BVN
=
- Original Message -
Alex,
The 8709 was probably another in their line of surveillance receivers. It
has Wide IF filter, so is not as selective and good in crowded bands as a
K2.
There are few receivers in the world that beat the K2 specs, if any.
The WJ is a fine commercial EMC or military type receiver for its
Alex,
Have you read the reviews of it on eham and the companion full rack width
radio? There is a chance of blowing the front end, as these were used in
listening posts, not near transmitters.
Another reviewer mentioned the back up battery being prone to leaking and
has posted the
I do not intend to use this near transmitters, so that should solve
that, I hope!
As for that batt, you have a point and thanks for the reminder. I
need to get in there and see where that batt is, and see if it's ok.
I need to make a replacement bottom panel for it too! 73 de Alex NS6Y.
Don Wilhelm wrote:
I would think you could remove the J3 connector from the top side of the
board.
Remove the connector mounting plates first, then heat the connection to the
PC board and you should be able to pry up and remove the ends of the 'L'
shaped conductor pieces from the board.
Tom WB2QDG wrote:
Yes the basic K2 with the ATU also has 2 antenna jacks. I also put a
dummy load on 'Ant 2', I can't tell you how many times I tried to auto
tune into an empty 'Ant 2', before I finally caught on.
Been there, done that, still do it occasionally
As I seldom have my
73 matches
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