[Elecraft] K3 and K3_EZ

2012-08-09 Thread reliant325
Having a slight problem with this.
I can start the program, connect to the K3 OK and control things as expected.
Problem iswhen I click on “Disconnect” it doesn’t respond and the program 
freezes.
I then have to use CTRL/ALT/DELETE to bring up Task Manager to close the 
program.

Running Win7 Pro 64 bit

Any Tips please?

Roger G0IUW
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[Elecraft] K3 and K3_EZ

2012-08-09 Thread Adrian
Also try install of;

http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/CDM/CDM%202.08.24%20WHQL%20Certified.zip

amd64 folder will contain your 64 bit driver if you update the ftdi driver to 
locate this folder only.



-Original Message-
From: Adrian [mailto:vk4...@bigpond.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 9 August 2012 7:41 PM
To: 'reliant...@talktalk.net'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 and K3_EZ


1. Check whether you have turned on the windows feature of .NET Framework 3.5.1.
Please go to Control Panel - Programs and Features - Turn Windows features on 
or off - Check the box next to Microsoft .NET Framework 3.5.1.

2. Use  http://blogs.msdn.com/astebner/pages/8999004.aspx Verification Tool 
to verify .Net Framework 2.0 SP2, 3.0SP2, 3.5 SP1. If .Net Framework cannot be 
verified on your computer, you can try to follow the steps mentioned in the 
following blog to repair them though this article is about vista.
See:
http://blogs.msdn.com/astebner/archive/2007/03/26/how-to-repair-the-net-framework-2-0-and-3-0-on-windows-vista.aspx

http://blogs.msdn.com/astebner/archive/2007/03/26/how-to-repair-the-net-framework-2-0-and-3-0-on-windows-vista.aspx


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of reliant...@talktalk.net
Sent: Thursday, 9 August 2012 6:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and K3_EZ

Having a slight problem with this.
I can start the program, connect to the K3 OK and control things as expected.
Problem iswhen I click on “Disconnect” it doesn’t respond and the program 
freezes.
I then have to use CTRL/ALT/DELETE to bring up Task Manager to close the 
program.

Running Win7 Pro 64 bit

Any Tips please?

Roger G0IUW
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[Elecraft] On the off chance- looking for a KX3

2012-08-09 Thread NZ8J
Don't laugh, you never know unless you ask. I would like to buy a KX3, if you 
bought one and have had your fun and would now like to sell it, I will buy it, 
Paypal, money order whatever you like.

Or how about a even swap for an as new TS-590S with the voice recorder. I am 
the original owner, it is just a couple weeks old. Great radio but I would 
rather have the KX3 to use as home and portable and just have one radio.

73
Tim
NZ8J
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[Elecraft] P3 swap towards KX3

2012-08-09 Thread David Perrin
Hi-
 I am interested in swapping my near new Elecraft P3 towards a KX3.  A bare 
bones KX3 would be fine. I have used the P3 with both the K3 and the Orion II, 
works as it should. non smoking environment.
Reply off list: dbper...@gmail.com

73 de Dave, K1OPQ
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Re: [Elecraft] W2 directional coupler N-connector

2012-08-09 Thread Paul Urie
Thanks for all of the comments. I had an early experience in ham radio
with satellites, AO-10 and AO-13, at frequencies 144, 430, 1.3 Ghz and 2.4
Ghz. Because of those frequencies N-connectors became a way of life. So I
automatically think of N-connectors when I am working with those
frequencies. If Elecraft offered the directional coupler with
N-connectors, I would buy it and pay extra for the connectors.

73,
Paul N7QOC

On 8/7/12 11:18 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
wrote:

Please note that changing the connectors from SO-239s to N's will
uncalibrate the W2's directional coupler as you go higher in frequency -
especially on 432 MHz, leading to less accurate SWR indications. It may
also affect wattmeter accuracy.

We included additional compensation components in the coupler design to
cancel the reluctance of the SO-239s, flattening the coupler's frequency
response.

73,

Eric
---
www.elecraft.com

On 8/7/2012 9:45 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
 Yes Paul, the connectors on the sending units are easily changed.
 All mine have been changed using kits from Morse Express that
 come with nicely-done interfacing plates to compensate for the
 pattern change.  I've also changed the three antenna connectors
 on my K3 using these neat little kits.

 A caution ... take note of the TRANSMITTER and LOAD labels and
 the positioning of the cover.  You have a 50-50 chance of reversing
 the labeling if you reverse the cover.  The labeling is on the -cover-
 and not the unit itself.

 73!

 Ken Kopp - K0PP

   On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:12 PM,  pmu...@xmission.com wrote:
 I am considering a small EME station on 432 Mhz. I would like to
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[Elecraft] XG3 Question

2012-08-09 Thread Jim Miller
After lugging my HP8640 up the stairs again last night (ugh) to act as a
source for doing some feedline loss measurements I thought again about
getting an XG3 for this purpose. I have an XG2 but its max output is only
-73dBm. I downloaded the manual and looked at it and the schematics and
realized there is no output filtering rather a square wave is emitted.

So if used with a broadband power meter (like the PIC Power Meter) the PPM
would receive not just the fundamental but the whole spectrum emitted by
the XG3.

So if used for loss measurements it would seem that a short bit of cable
might allow the harmonics to contribute meaningfully to the received power
yet a long cable would attenuate the higher harmonics to a greater degree
and give an incorrect impression of the loss at say 7Mhz. Seems like this
device is only useful then with a tuned receiving device.

Do I have this correct?

tnx
jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs K3

2012-08-09 Thread Chip Stratton
You should be able to find a K2 for sale used for roughly 2/3 (sometimes
more, sometimes less) of the retail kit and included modules price. This
discount probably reflects the fact that you really don't know how well it
was originally built, but thankfully the K2 is fairly forgiving of
variations in construction skill.

If you do find one used, you should probably assume that some aspect of it
will require a bit of troubleshooting/sleuthing to make exactly right.
Frankly, I find this every bit as interesting and absorbing as actually
operating, so your take on this might be a little bit different.
Fortunately again, the K2 manual goes to lengths to show you the way when
troubleshooting, and the reflector and Elecraft support itself will go to
great lengths to help you out.

If you do buy a used K2, be sure to ask if the Frequency counter probe and
RF Probe, included in the original kit but frequently separated, are
included.

Chip
AE5KA
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 Question

2012-08-09 Thread Jim Miller
Just realized that the K3 internal voltmeter might be of use since it is
obviously frequency selective. I could put the XG3 (or better yet, the
already owned XG2) at the far end of the line after calibrating it in the
shack against the K3 then measure the signal on the K3 display and the line
loss would be the difference of the two.

I think I just saved some money!

More to spend on QSLing!

woo hoo!!

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the 
crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order 
a new housing too.

See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would 
just have to assemble it even with all new parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Matt Hancock
That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
the batteries?

... Matt

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
 __**__**__
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 http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecrafthttp://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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-- 
matthancock.blogspot.com
twitter.com/mwhancock
ac9bq http://www.qrz.com/db/AC9BQ
(773) 609-1697
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[Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Ignacy
Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature useful
for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no possibility
of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface does not allow for
CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster. 

Ignacy, NO9E



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-contesting-tp7560676.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Bob
Hey,

Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any positive
experience using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to drive
their K3?  Specifically I'm wondering which models might be relatively free
of emitted noise, are fairly efficient, and haven't messed up in a typical
RF environment.

I use solar panels to keep a flooded lead acid battery array charged, then
run my ham stuff from that - but the battery voltage does sag lower than
I'd like under transmit, dropping down to about 12.0 VDC, so I'd like to
get it closer to 13.8 under load by using a boost regulator.

Appreciate the bandwidth, and thanks in advance.

73, Bob, WB4SON
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Matthew Zilmer
http://stores.tgelectronics.org/Detail.bok?no=10 works quite well.  I have two 
50W Seimens PV modules feeding a charge controller, then to an Optima 75AH AGM. 
 The Optima is the shack supply.

Matt Zilmer
Consultant - Product Management Dept.
Magellan Navigation / MiTAC Digital Corp.
Tel: (909) 394-6052
Cell: (909) 730-6552
Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 9:10 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost 
regulators with K3?

Hey,

Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any positive experience 
using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to drive their K3?  
Specifically I'm wondering which models might be relatively free of emitted 
noise, are fairly efficient, and haven't messed up in a typical RF environment.

I use solar panels to keep a flooded lead acid battery array charged, then run 
my ham stuff from that - but the battery voltage does sag lower than I'd like 
under transmit, dropping down to about 12.0 VDC, so I'd like to get it closer 
to 13.8 under load by using a boost regulator.

Appreciate the bandwidth, and thanks in advance.

73, Bob, WB4SON
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread John D'Ausilio
I use a pair of Jacobs Accuvolts .. and they're pretty noisy on 6M
(the lowest frequency in the rover). One of them is on all the time
and lives in an RF-tight box with industrial filtered feedthroughs,
the other is keyed by the sequencer for the low-band station so it's
only enabled during transmit ..

de w1rt/john

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 12:10 PM, Bob wb4...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hey,

 Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any positive
 experience using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to drive
 their K3?  Specifically I'm wondering which models might be relatively free
 of emitted noise, are fairly efficient, and haven't messed up in a typical
 RF environment.

 I use solar panels to keep a flooded lead acid battery array charged, then
 run my ham stuff from that - but the battery voltage does sag lower than
 I'd like under transmit, dropping down to about 12.0 VDC, so I'd like to
 get it closer to 13.8 under load by using a boost regulator.

 Appreciate the bandwidth, and thanks in advance.

 73, Bob, WB4SON
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[Elecraft] [K1] No power out

2012-08-09 Thread Bob Molloy
Hi,

 

I'm in Chapter 9, Alignment and Test, Part II. I've done the first set of
voltage checks and the values are all good.

 

Now I have moved on to Band 1 Alignment (40 meters). No position of L1, L2,
L5 or L6 has any effect. The display continues to show P0.1. (Also tried
Band 2 (20 meters) with the same result.)

 

What steps should I take next?

 

Thanks,

Bob KD2UJ

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Chip Stratton
I have one of the tgelectronics boosters. It does what it says, but there
is still a small amount of RFI that will get into a nearby antenna. The
solution is to use the transmit sensing feature of the boost regulator, so
that it is only active on transmit, and shuts off on receive - during which
you don't need full voltage anyway.

Chip
AE5KA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Lulu discount (Fred Cady's book)

2012-08-09 Thread Bill Tubbs
Keep pondering that KX3 tome, Fred ;-)

Bill
WK6A

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 8, 2012, at 4:25 PM, Cady, Fred fc...@ece.montana.edu wrote:

 Hi Dick,
 I have not made any updates to the book other than what is on the
 ke7x.com web site.
 I'm pondering a 2nd edition that would include the KPA500 and KAT500.
 Other than that, there haven't been any substantial changes in the K3
 world. Well, maybe the P3 SVGA.
 Also pondering a KX3 tome but haven't gotten there  yet.
 Cheers and 73,
 Fred
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Lindzen
 Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 2:47 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Lulu discount (Fred Cady's book)
 
 Are there updates to Fred's book?  If so, how does one get them?
 
 73, Dick WO1I
 
 At 04:40 PM 8/8/2012, Thomas Horsten wrote:
 Hi Dale,
 
 Sure about the code? I get:
 
 The code you entered is not valid
 
 Tried both upper and lower case. Seems like a dud to me.
 
 73, Thomas M0TRN
 
 On 8 August 2012 18:58, Dale Boresz d...@lightstream.net wrote:
 
 
 For anyone interested in Fred Cady's excellent K3 book, Lulu is 
 offering a 20% order-level discount on any order until August 10.
 (Promo Code:
 ASTOUND)
 
 See:
  http://www.lulu.com 
 
 Fred's book:
 
 
 
 http://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?type=keyWords=elecraft+k3x=9y=12
 sitesearch=lulu.comq=
 
 
 73, Dale
 WA8SRA
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the 
old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram 
in the Final Assembly section of the manual.
If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the 
leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- 
only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to 
change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from 
the KX1 board.

Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the 
back of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some 
pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside 
of the housing where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (8/5/12)

2012-08-09 Thread Terry Schieler
Hi Joe,

Sorry to hear about the noise level.  Can I recommend that you listen to the 
net and wait until Phil,NS7P (Net Control) asks if there are any relays.  Put 
your call in there.  Some of the noise on the frequency will have subsided by 
then as, at that point, most all check-ins will have been acknowledged.  There 
are a lot of helpful guys on the net and someone will definitely help you get 
through.  Just drop on in!

73,

Terry, W0FM



-Original Message-
From: Joseph Carter [mailto:j...@case.edu] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 2:01 PM
To: Phillip Shepard
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (8/5/12)

Bad news / good news.
First the bad - while waiting for my KX3 I sold my other radios and bought a 
K3/100 and P3 which I just love - have been trying for the last 4 weeks to 
check in on Sunday but noise level here just too high!
(sigh) and bad timing for me for the CW net - will keep trying.
Good news, just received the e-mail from April and my KX3 will ship next week.
Hope to catch you all eventually.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate and have learned from this reflector.
Best,

73 de Joe, w9jc


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Mobile installs

2012-08-09 Thread Matthew Zilmer
Try this doc on the Elecraft site: 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev1.2-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf

Matt W6NIA


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Heimbold
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 12:03 PM
To: Elecraft Group
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Mobile installs

I am interested in how people are doing their KX3 mobile Installs.

I plan to use use my KX3 in my older Silverado and was curious about how people 
have theirs in the mobile configuration.  I had my KX3 connected temporarily to 
a 20m ham stick and it really did awesome!  The noise blanker was amazing. It 
eliminated all internal car generated noise. 

My goal is a modular install so I can remove my KX3 for portable operations. I 
would like to see any and all install configurations. 

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Mobile installs

2012-08-09 Thread Keith Heimbold
Matthew,

Thanks for forwarding the link. I have the KX3 installed temporarily and have 
been enjoying it with changing out ham sticks.  I am looking forward to 
installing a Hi Q and a loop for 6m in my final installation.

Keith
AG6AZ

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

On Aug 9, 2012, at 10:29 AM, Matthew Zilmer mzil...@magellangps.com wrote:

 Try this doc on the Elecraft site: 
 http://www.elecraft.com/manual/Rev1.2-KX3-Mobile-Owners.pdf
 
 Matt W6NIA
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Heimbold
 Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2012 12:03 PM
 To: Elecraft Group
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Mobile installs
 
 I am interested in how people are doing their KX3 mobile Installs.
 
 I plan to use use my KX3 in my older Silverado and was curious about how 
 people have theirs in the mobile configuration.  I had my KX3 connected 
 temporarily to a 20m ham stick and it really did awesome!  The noise blanker 
 was amazing. It eliminated all internal car generated noise. 
 
 My goal is a modular install so I can remove my KX3 for portable operations. 
 I would like to see any and all install configurations. 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Keith
 AG6AZ
 
 Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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[Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread Dick Roth--KA1OZ
I have two furry family members who often visit me when I'm
operating...and often come into the shack when I'm not there.
Naturally, being cats, they climb all over the place including my
operating position.

Heres a tip:  if you leave your radio on when you aren't present, engage
Tx TEST to prevent accidental carrier transmission if they want to try
out their fists on your keys.

Sure, I could shut the station off, but I tend to cling to my old ways
when I used hollow state gear (last rig before the K3 was a National
NCX-3) and it required long warm-ups.

-- 
73 de Dick, ka1oz

Elecraft K3/100(K) #859
G5RV Doublet
Titan-DX Vertical



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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

No, and none of the big three are likely to do so as the KY command
is not uniform across all brands and lacks the ability to determine
buffer status or edit buffer contents.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
 Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature useful
 for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

 This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no possibility
 of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface does not allow for
 CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.

 Ignacy, NO9E



 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-contesting-tp7560676.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Oscar Staudt
Bob,
  Not sure why you'd need a boost regulator.  The K3 is one of the very few
HF transceivers that specifies it will work fine down to 11v.  I've used
mine for years from a 12v SLA with no problems at all.  Use 100AH
SLA(wheelchair battery) at home (use Powergate to charge/control voltage),
so most of the time K3 supply is sitting at 13.8v.  However, I often unplug
AC when storms are near.  I often forget to plug AC back in and the K3 runs
on 12v for weeks of daily nets before I notice low input voltage.  (Couple
of hours a day at 100 watts tx, SSB).
  When camping with Boy Scouts, I usually use a 26AH SLA.  Never had a
problem with that either.  However, I usually run around 40 watts power to
help conserve energy.  That's usually just a weekend.
  If you want to be able to run another brand transceiver from battery
power, then, yes, you do need the boost regulator.  Elecraft rocks!
Oscar, WB5GCX

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Matthew Zilmer mzil...@magellangps.comwrote:

 http://stores.tgelectronics.org/Detail.bok?no=10 works quite well.  I
 have two 50W Seimens PV modules feeding a charge controller, then to an
 Optima 75AH AGM.  The Optima is the shack supply.

 Matt Zilmer
 Consultant - Product Management Dept.
 Magellan Navigation / MiTAC Digital Corp.
 Tel: (909) 394-6052
 Cell: (909) 730-6552
 Si fractum non sit, noli id reficere


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:
 elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
 Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 9:10 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost
 regulators with K3?

 Hey,

 Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any positive
 experience using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to drive
 their K3?  Specifically I'm wondering which models might be relatively free
 of emitted noise, are fairly efficient, and haven't messed up in a typical
 RF environment.

 I use solar panels to keep a flooded lead acid battery array charged, then
 run my ham stuff from that - but the battery voltage does sag lower than
 I'd like under transmit, dropping down to about 12.0 VDC, so I'd like to
 get it closer to 13.8 under load by using a boost regulator.

 Appreciate the bandwidth, and thanks in advance.

 73, Bob, WB4SON
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] No power out

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

I believe you will need an RF Probe or a 'scope with a 10X probe to proceed.

First step is to check to see if you have RF from the crystal - P1 pin 4 
of the band board.
Check on both bands.
Assuming you do have RF from the crystal, the next step is to check for 
RF at P1 pin 6 - tune the Premixer inductors for maximum amplitude while 
probing that point.

Once you have the PreMixer output, you can peak the RF Bandpass filter 
in receive - if you have a signal generator that is great, if not and 
you have another transmitter, feed that transmitter into a dummy load 
and put a pickup wire on the antenna connector of the K1.

After you have the K1 receiving, then try transmit again and touch up 
the premixer and rf bandpass filters during transmit.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 12:26 PM, Bob Molloy wrote:
 Hi,

 I'm in Chapter 9, Alignment and Test, Part II. I've done the first set of
 voltage checks and the values are all good.

 Now I have moved on to Band 1 Alignment (40 meters). No position of L1, L2,
 L5 or L6 has any effect. The display continues to show P0.1. (Also tried
 Band 2 (20 meters) with the same result.)

 What steps should I take next?

   



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[Elecraft] Using the XV50 on 4 metres

2012-08-09 Thread David Pratt
I have recently modified an Elecraft XV50 external transverter for use 
on 4 metres and have prepared some notes on how I did it. These notes 
may be of interest to anyone who is licensed to operate on the 70 MHz 
band.

http://www.g4dmp.co.uk/XV70mods.pdf

73 de G4DMP

-- 
  + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
  | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
  | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
  + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Chip Stratton
I don't have a K3, I've used the TGE booster for an ICOM IC-7000 on the
boat, and it wants the higher voltage for near full power transmit.  As for
the transmit sensing, yes the TGE I have has a BNC connector on it, and you
would put a T in your coax to the antenna, and the boost regulator senses
the RF voltage.

Chip
AE5KA
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[Elecraft] DSP for K2

2012-08-09 Thread Stephen Roberts
I have a K2 and recently tested a WMR Clrdsp unit and was very disappointed 
with the results. I think the unit was defective and I returned it. But I 
wanted to ask the list what outboard DSP units you might use and whether you 
think they're worth it or not. I have a hard time forking over $250 for the K2 
internal DSP unit.

I have the KAF2 installed and it's very effective, but I'd really like to get 
rid of some of that QRN that's always present on 40m.

Thanks

Steve





---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Rick Ruhl
Who are the big three Joe? 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 1:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting


  Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

No, and none of the big three are likely to do so as the KY command is not
uniform across all brands and lacks the ability to determine buffer status
or edit buffer contents.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
 Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature 
 useful for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via
command?

 This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no 
 possibility of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface 
 does not allow for CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.

 Ignacy, NO9E



 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-con
 testing-tp7560676.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at 
 Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

2012-08-09 Thread Adrian
That's great Jim, I also noticed it very immune to rfi and easy to use.

Hey if you spill your drink , coffee etc its no issue, wash it off and towel
it down and keep going even if wet.

Be great for field day/outside use/dxpeditions etc, the buttons respond well
too.

 I ordered a spare, as they are such a good deal.

Adrian ... vk4tux


-Original Message-
From: Jim Sheldon [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 4:29 AM
To: Adrian
Subject: Rollup rubber keyboard

Hi again Adrian,
Postman just delivered that cute little rubber roll-up keyboard.  Took
exactly 30 seconds to fall in love with it.  Also, even without any ferrites
on it, no RF problems apparent even with the KPA500 running 600+ out on RTTY
and the other one would lock up.  I did pick up a whole bunch of type 31
snap on ferrites that are about 1.5 inches long and a couple of them killed
the problem on the little silver KB.  This rubber one is going to be great
as I do a lot of the local hamfests as a demo guy for Elecraft, taking my
own equipment and showing it off with a tripod mounted homebrew antenna.  I
usually wind up working some pretty decent DX on RTTY or CW during the
demo's and I never run more than 5 watts out at a hamfest to make sure
nobody gets an RF burn if they happen to grab the antenna while I'm
transmitting.

This roll-up KB has a much better feel than I really expected and is really
easy to type on.  I think I'll order 3 more of them to have one for each
laptop and a spare if one fails.

Thanks for the info.

Jim - W0EB

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Jim Bennett
Bob,

I have a 75w GE solar panel outside, feeding a Morningstar Prostar 15M charge 
controller, and that feeds three 108ah AGM batteries in parallel. For several 
years I did not have any sort of boost regulator. Things worked pretty well, 
but the winters in northern California can bring days on end w/o enough 
sunshine to get the batteries up to full speed. Doing a lot of 100w QSO'ing 
will eventually run the battery voltage dow almost to the danger zone as far 
as the K3 is concerned. Two years ago the XYL bought me one of the TGE units: 
the N8XJK Boost Regulator, with the optional meter panel. Very, very cool.

I run the output of the boost regulator into a West Mountain Radio Rig Runner 
4008. Everything in the shack (K3, MFJ-259B, operating light) is powered 
through that distribution box. And with the addition of the Boost Regulator, I 
ALWAYS have 13.8 V going to each unit. 

When I first got the Boost Regulator, I noticed birdies all over many of the HF 
bands. I'd turn off the regulator and the birdies went away. I called TGE 
(can't remember the fellow's name, but he was very cordial) and explained the 
situation to him. He worked with me on the issue and the problem has been 
resolved. He replaced my Boost Regulator with one having much longer leads and 
supplied me with a handful of rather large ferrite cores. I wrapped the wires 
from the Boost Regulator through the ferrites several times and the birdies 
have disappeared.

That was two years ago. I don't know if they've had any design changes in the 
mean time that deal with the birdies, or if one must still use the ferrites 
they supply. It would be worth a call to them to see what their current 
situation is regarding the birdie issue. You can use my name and call if that 
helps joggle his mind!

If you opt to go with another vendor's booster (MFJ also sells one), check with 
other hams to see if they are having HF birdie issues.

Anyway, I've been running my 100w station with solar panel / battery power for 
quite a few years - now that I've had a boost regulator, I would not want to be 
without one. After all, why make the K3 draw more current than necessary to 
have xxx amount of output power? :-)


On   Thursday, Aug 9, 2012, at  Thursday, 9:10 AM, Bob wrote:

 Hey,
 
 Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any positive
 experience using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to drive
 their K3?  Specifically I'm wondering which models might be relatively free
 of emitted noise, are fairly efficient, and haven't messed up in a typical
 RF environment.
 
 I use solar panels to keep a flooded lead acid battery array charged, then
 run my ham stuff from that - but the battery voltage does sag lower than
 I'd like under transmit, dropping down to about 12.0 VDC, so I'd like to
 get it closer to 13.8 under load by using a boost regulator.
 
 Appreciate the bandwidth, and thanks in advance.
 
 73, Bob, WB4SON
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Cady, Fred
I've never done it, but can't N1MM be set up to send macro's to the K3
with its (N1MM's) function keys? I don't know if variable information
can be sent that way.
Probably easier just to make a keying interface ala the old days.

73,
Fred
KE7X

Fred Cady
The Elecraft K3: Design, Configuration and Operation
www.ke7x.com
fcady at ieee dot org 

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-
 boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 11:43 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting
 
 
   Does any contesting software support  CW via command?
 
 No, and none of the big three are likely to do so as the KY command
 is not uniform across all brands and lacks the ability to determine
 buffer status or edit buffer contents.
 
 73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
  Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature
 useful
  for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via
command?
 
  This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no
 possibility
  of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface does not
 allow for
  CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.
 
  Ignacy, NO9E
 
 
 
  --
  View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-
 contesting-tp7560676.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

2012-08-09 Thread Adrian
Get it here with free shipping

Go to   http://www.ebay.com.au/

Search for item   160745894556

-Original Message-
From: Stephen Roberts [mailto:steve...@shoreham.net] 
Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 5:49 AM
To: Adrian
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

I missed the link for this. Can you shoot that to me please?

Steve



On Aug 9, 2012, at 3:40 PM, Adrian wrote:

 That's great Jim, I also noticed it very immune to rfi and easy to use.
 
 Hey if you spill your drink , coffee etc its no issue, wash it off and 
 towel it down and keep going even if wet.
 
 Be great for field day/outside use/dxpeditions etc, the buttons 
 respond well too.
 
 I ordered a spare, as they are such a good deal.
 
 Adrian ... vk4tux
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Jim Sheldon [mailto:w...@cox.net]
 Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 4:29 AM
 To: Adrian
 Subject: Rollup rubber keyboard
 
 Hi again Adrian,
 Postman just delivered that cute little rubber roll-up keyboard.  Took 
 exactly 30 seconds to fall in love with it.  Also, even without any 
 ferrites on it, no RF problems apparent even with the KPA500 running 
 600+ out on RTTY and the other one would lock up.  I did pick up a 
 whole bunch of type 31 snap on ferrites that are about 1.5 inches long 
 and a couple of them killed the problem on the little silver KB.  This 
 rubber one is going to be great as I do a lot of the local hamfests as 
 a demo guy for Elecraft, taking my own equipment and showing it off 
 with a tripod mounted homebrew antenna.  I usually wind up working 
 some pretty decent DX on RTTY or CW during the demo's and I never run 
 more than 5 watts out at a hamfest to make sure nobody gets an RF burn 
 if they happen to grab the antenna while I'm transmitting.
 
 This roll-up KB has a much better feel than I really expected and is 
 really easy to type on.  I think I'll order 3 more of them to have one 
 for each laptop and a spare if one fails.
 
 Thanks for the info.
 
 Jim - W0EB
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

For Windows contesting packages, they are in seniority order, Writelog,
N1MM Logger and Win-Test.  There are several others that specialize in
some areas - primarily a local language or support for a limited number
of local contests - but the big three represent around 80% (my
estimate) of total logs submitted using contest specific software.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 8/9/2012 3:21 PM, Rick Ruhl wrote:
 Who are the big three Joe?


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 1:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting


Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

 No, and none of the big three are likely to do so as the KY command is not
 uniform across all brands and lacks the ability to determine buffer status
 or edit buffer contents.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
 Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature
 useful for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via
 command?

 This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no
 possibility of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface
 does not allow for CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.

 Ignacy, NO9E



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 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-con
 testing-tp7560676.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Thomas Horsten
Win-Test is my choice for contesting. In the latest contest I used my KX3
(novelty value and wanted to try a conetst in QRP), and I missed the
automatic keying with DTR/CTS, but on the other hand had fun sending
everything with the paddles.

However, I think all of the programs you mention support the Win-Key keyer,
which also uses serial port commands and has a protocol where you can query
the buffer state and clear it.

I think (and this would be one for Wayne to answer) that it would be easy
enough to add a K(X)3 command in the firmware to allow you to query the
buffer state and/or stop sending the remaining buffer. If so, it would be
possible to add rig-controlled keying to these contest-loggers and/or write
a generic Win-Key emulator that would present as a virtual serial port and
handle the commands to the K(X)3. It would be great for the KX3 and even
for the K3 as the CTS/DTR keying has a severe disadvantage in that Windows
isn't a real-time operating system and sometimes the program will hang for
a few milliseconds, resulting in a dit turning into a dah (or a pause),
this could be avoided entirely by having the rig control the timing (as
with the Win-Keyer).

Wayne is probably extremely busy with KX3 stuff at the moment but an entry
on the TODO/IDEAS list would be appreciated ;)

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 9 August 2012 21:14, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 For Windows contesting packages, they are in seniority order, Writelog,
 N1MM Logger and Win-Test.  There are several others that specialize in
 some areas - primarily a local language or support for a limited number
 of local contests - but the big three represent around 80% (my
 estimate) of total logs submitted using contest specific software.

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Any good experience/recommendations with boostregulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread dmoes

I don't use a booster either.   I run from solar charged RV battery at 
the cabin. when I see that the voltage is getting low (below 12V) 
I reduce power to 50W and at 11V  I go to bed.   The trick here is 
short heavy supply cables.  I have about 6 feet of 10 AWG  with a 12 
inch 12AWG jumper   at the rig.   I found that the 10AWG into the rig 
was to stiff and would pull out if things were moved. except for only 
once on PSK that I think was a problem at his end not mine, I have 
never had complaints of splatter or degraded audio even when the 
voltage aproaches 11V.



David Moes
VE3DVY




 Bob,
Not sure why you'd need a boost regulator.  The K3 is one of the 
 very few
 HF transceivers that specifies it will work fine down to 11v.  I've 
 used
 mine for years from a 12v SLA with no problems at all.  Use 100AH
 SLA(wheelchair battery) at home (use Powergate to charge/control 
 voltage),
 so most of the time K3 supply is sitting at 13.8v.  However, I often 
 unplug
 AC when storms are near.  I often forget to plug AC back in and the K3 
 runs
 on 12v for weeks of daily nets before I notice low input voltage.  
 (Couple
 of hours a day at 100 watts tx, SSB).
When camping with Boy Scouts, I usually use a 26AH SLA.  Never had 
 a
 problem with that either.  However, I usually run around 40 watts 
 power to
 help conserve energy.  That's usually just a weekend.
If you want to be able to run another brand transceiver from 
 battery
 power, then, yes, you do need the boost regulator.  Elecraft rocks!
 Oscar, WB5GCX


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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Pete Smith N4ZR
N1MM Logger, Win-Test and Writelog.

73, Pete N4ZR
The World Contest Station Database, at www.conteststations.com
The Reverse Beacon Network at http://reversebeacon.net, blog at 
reversebeacon.blogspot.com,
spots at telnet.reversebeacon.net, port 7000 and
arcluster.reversebeacon.net, port 7000

On 8/9/2012 3:21 PM, Rick Ruhl wrote:
 Who are the big three Joe?


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Joe Subich, W4TV
 Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 1:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting


Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

 No, and none of the big three are likely to do so as the KY command is not
 uniform across all brands and lacks the ability to determine buffer status
 or edit buffer contents.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
 Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature
 useful for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via
 command?
 This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no
 possibility of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface
 does not allow for CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.

 Ignacy, NO9E



 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Software-CW-in-K3-and-KX3-and-con
 testing-tp7560676.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at
 Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

2012-08-09 Thread Mike K2MK
I had purchased one of these following Adrian's recommendation. It is very
inexpensive (about $8) and delivery was only 10 days. When the package
arrives from Hong Kong it is deceiving small and light weight. The way it
rolls up tight but instantly lies flat is really cool. Here's the current
eBay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160745894556?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Its feel is decent but for my very light touch I found it missing
characters. It probably would take me a few sessions of keyboard practice to
be fully comfortable with it. I did not do any RF testing but it's good to
know that others have.

I also purchased another keyboard on Amazon which was also inexpensive
(about $10) if you take advantage of the free shipping by buying other items
to bring your total over $25. This non-flexible keyboard is a little smaller
than the eBay keyboard and has the same feel as any conventional desktop PC
keyboard. I have not done any RF testing with it. Here's the current Amazon
link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041A5OGA/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01

Both keyboards provided full access to all of the new data features of the
P3/SVGA external keyboard input. Although I think I had trouble finding one
of the special keys on the Amazon keyboard that is used for the special CW
characters shown at the bottom of the DATA screen. I didn't consider this a
deal breaker.

73,
Mike K2MK



vk4tux wrote
 
 Get it here with free shipping
 
 Go to   http://www.ebay.com.au/
 
 Search for item   160745894556
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Stephen Roberts [mailto:steverob@] 
 Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 5:49 AM
 To: Adrian
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard
 
 I missed the link for this. Can you shoot that to me please?
 
 Steve
 
 
 
 On Aug 9, 2012, at 3:40 PM, Adrian wrote:
 
 That's great Jim, I also noticed it very immune to rfi and easy to use.
 
 Hey if you spill your drink , coffee etc its no issue, wash it off and 
 towel it down and keep going even if wet.
 
 Be great for field day/outside use/dxpeditions etc, the buttons 
 respond well too.
 
 I ordered a spare, as they are such a good deal.
 
 Adrian ... vk4tux
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Jim Sheldon [mailto:w0eb@]
 Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 4:29 AM
 To: Adrian
 Subject: Rollup rubber keyboard
 
 Hi again Adrian,
 Postman just delivered that cute little rubber roll-up keyboard.  Took 
 exactly 30 seconds to fall in love with it.  Also, even without any 
 ferrites on it, no RF problems apparent even with the KPA500 running 
 600+ out on RTTY and the other one would lock up.  I did pick up a 
 whole bunch of type 31 snap on ferrites that are about 1.5 inches long 
 and a couple of them killed the problem on the little silver KB.  This 
 rubber one is going to be great as I do a lot of the local hamfests as 
 a demo guy for Elecraft, taking my own equipment and showing it off 
 with a tripod mounted homebrew antenna.  I usually wind up working 
 some pretty decent DX on RTTY or CW during the demo's and I never run 
 more than 5 watts out at a hamfest to make sure nobody gets an RF burn 
 if they happen to grab the antenna while I'm transmitting.
 
 This roll-up KB has a much better feel than I really expected and is 
 really easy to type on.  I think I'll order 3 more of them to have one 
 for each laptop and a spare if one fails.
 
 Thanks for the info.
 
 Jim - W0EB
 




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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

2012-08-09 Thread Tim Tucker
I tried one of these (probably not the same brand) several years ago in
conjunction with a mini-notebook for doing digital modes in the field.  It
produced horrible RFI for me so I eventually gave it away.  I guess it's a
YMMV type of deal.

Tim

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 12:40 PM, Adrian vk4...@bigpond.com wrote:

 That's great Jim, I also noticed it very immune to rfi and easy to use.

 Hey if you spill your drink , coffee etc its no issue, wash it off and
 towel
 it down and keep going even if wet.

 Be great for field day/outside use/dxpeditions etc, the buttons respond
 well
 too.

  I ordered a spare, as they are such a good deal.

 Adrian ... vk4tux


 -Original Message-
 From: Jim Sheldon [mailto:w...@cox.net]
 Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 4:29 AM
 To: Adrian
 Subject: Rollup rubber keyboard

 Hi again Adrian,
 Postman just delivered that cute little rubber roll-up keyboard.  Took
 exactly 30 seconds to fall in love with it.  Also, even without any
 ferrites
 on it, no RF problems apparent even with the KPA500 running 600+ out on
 RTTY
 and the other one would lock up.  I did pick up a whole bunch of type 31
 snap on ferrites that are about 1.5 inches long and a couple of them killed
 the problem on the little silver KB.  This rubber one is going to be great
 as I do a lot of the local hamfests as a demo guy for Elecraft, taking my
 own equipment and showing it off with a tripod mounted homebrew antenna.  I
 usually wind up working some pretty decent DX on RTTY or CW during the
 demo's and I never run more than 5 watts out at a hamfest to make sure
 nobody gets an RF burn if they happen to grab the antenna while I'm
 transmitting.

 This roll-up KB has a much better feel than I really expected and is really
 easy to type on.  I think I'll order 3 more of them to have one for each
 laptop and a spare if one fails.

 Thanks for the info.

 Jim - W0EB

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[Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread Roy Morris
When I transmit my buffer I am told that the first four characters of the 
first word in the string are not being transmitted.  The string on my K3 
display shows that all characters are scrolling correctly.  I went into the 
setup screen and changed the timeout from 0 to 3000 thinking that would cure 
this problem, but it appears not to have corrected it.  What would cause the 
first word to be shortened, and what might be the cure?

Also, when I go from one data mode to another the cursor can change several 
Khz up or down from the center frequency.  I am sometimes able to get it 
back to center if I change the mark and space pairs with the PITCH control. 
Once the cursor is centered I can go to other data modes and it  stays near 
the center line.  I am new to the data modes so I must not be doing 
something right.  Any help to enlighten me would be appreciated.  Roy Morris 
W4WFB 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Matt Hancock
Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.

Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
up in the future!

... Matt

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old 
 crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the 
 Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads 
 instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only 
 about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change the 
 batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of 
 the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that 
 side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the 
 flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roy,

On the missing letters, all I can think of is perhaps it is 
power-hunting -starting low and eventually going higher (the receiving 
station may not hear the weaker initial signal)
The way to prevent power hunting is to ignore the advice commonly given 
set the power level to maximum and adjust the audio to control the 
desired power output - that does NOT work for the K2, the K3 or the 
KX3.  Adjust the audio level on the K3 to produce 4 bars solid with the 
5th bar solid on the K3 ALC display.  Use the power knob to set the 
desired power level.

On the second item, refresh your information on how the K3 does data 
modes vs. frequency display.  Data A will show you the carrier 
frequency, and the frequency on the waterfall is actually that carrier 
frequency plus (minus for LSB) the audio pitch sent by your software 
application - even though many applications show the actual frequency 
of the signal, that is only because of the calculations done by that 
software.

Now move on to AFSK - the frequency displayed by the K3 depends on the 
shift setting in the K3 menu - the frequency displayed will be the mark 
frequency (consistent with MMTTY, but different than clicking on an RTTY 
signal on the waterfall in DATA A submode.

PSK D will show you the actual frequency of the PSK31 signal (similar to 
the carrier plus [minus] audio frequency seen in DATA A, and FSK D will 
show you the actual mark frequency.
That is explained (in different words) in the K3 manual.

Have great fun with data modes, they are great once you get things set 
up right and become familiar with whatever turns out to be your favorite 
software applications.

73,
Don W3FPR




On 8/9/2012 6:06 PM, Roy Morris wrote:
 When I transmit my buffer I am told that the first four characters of the
 first word in the string are not being transmitted.  The string on my K3
 display shows that all characters are scrolling correctly.  I went into the
 setup screen and changed the timeout from 0 to 3000 thinking that would cure
 this problem, but it appears not to have corrected it.  What would cause the
 first word to be shortened, and what might be the cure?

 Also, when I go from one data mode to another the cursor can change several
 Khz up or down from the center frequency.  I am sometimes able to get it
 back to center if I change the mark and space pairs with the PITCH control.
 Once the cursor is centered I can go to other data modes and it  stays near
 the center line.  I am new to the data modes so I must not be doing
 something right.  Any help to enlighten me would be appreciated.  Roy Morris
 W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] Rollup rubber keyboard

2012-08-09 Thread Vic K2VCO
I had one and while it didn't produce RFI, it was very sensitive to 160/80 
meter RF. In 
fact, I wasn't able to tame it with any practical amount of ferrite when 
running high 
power. But as Tim says, you won't know until you try.

On 8/9/2012 2:35 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:
 I tried one of these (probably not the same brand) several years ago in
 conjunction with a mini-notebook for doing digital modes in the field.  It
 produced horrible RFI for me so I eventually gave it away.  I guess it's a
 YMMV type of deal.

 Tim

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 12:40 PM, Adrian vk4...@bigpond.com wrote:

 That's great Jim, I also noticed it very immune to rfi and easy to use.

 Hey if you spill your drink , coffee etc its no issue, wash it off and
 towel
 it down and keep going even if wet.

 Be great for field day/outside use/dxpeditions etc, the buttons respond
 well
 too.

   I ordered a spare, as they are such a good deal.

 Adrian ... vk4tux


 -Original Message-
 From: Jim Sheldon [mailto:w...@cox.net]
 Sent: Friday, 10 August 2012 4:29 AM
 To: Adrian
 Subject: Rollup rubber keyboard

 Hi again Adrian,
 Postman just delivered that cute little rubber roll-up keyboard.  Took
 exactly 30 seconds to fall in love with it.  Also, even without any
 ferrites
 on it, no RF problems apparent even with the KPA500 running 600+ out on
 RTTY
 and the other one would lock up.  I did pick up a whole bunch of type 31
 snap on ferrites that are about 1.5 inches long and a couple of them killed
 the problem on the little silver KB.  This rubber one is going to be great
 as I do a lot of the local hamfests as a demo guy for Elecraft, taking my
 own equipment and showing it off with a tripod mounted homebrew antenna.  I
 usually wind up working some pretty decent DX on RTTY or CW during the
 demo's and I never run more than 5 watts out at a hamfest to make sure
 nobody gets an RF burn if they happen to grab the antenna while I'm
 transmitting.

 This roll-up KB has a much better feel than I really expected and is really
 easy to type on.  I think I'll order 3 more of them to have one for each
 laptop and a spare if one fails.

 Thanks for the info.

 Jim - W0EB

-- 
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Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Matt,

If your wire leads are more than 1.5 inches long, the original builder 
did not dress the wires under the battery holders correctly. refer to 
the manual instructions for the battery holder installation for the 
proper way to route the battery wires.

Properly routed, the connector pulls off when you remove the back cover, 
and it is easy to put back on its mating connector after you change the 
batteries.  If the wires are not routed properly, you have to fuss 
with them every time you remove/replace the back cover.

Yes,many builders have trouble with not only the proper installation of 
the crimp pins, but also the routing of the battery wires.  My method is 
to mount the right battery holder, then push its red wire under the 
holder (up to the point where the heat-shrink has been added), then hold 
the black wire from the left battery holder under the holder in 
approximately the correct position and fasten that holder loosely with 
the screw closest to the edge of the cover.
Now, you can fiddle with the wires - the black one from the right holder 
is routed around the corner of the holder - that is usually not a 
problem.  The black wire from the right holder is routed outside the 
black wire from the left one, and goes behind the mounting foot 
projection - you can lift the edge of the battery holder a bit and slide 
a thin screwdriver point in to position that wire.  The short red wire 
from the left holder goes under the holder and behind the round tab, 
exiting the battery holder about the same place as the black wire.

Look at the diagram in the manual.

If your wires are not routed like that, I strongly recommend you arrange 
then that way - they will give you fewer problems in the future.

On 8/9/2012 6:25 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
 pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.

 Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
 up in the future!

 ... Matt

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old 
 crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the 
 Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads 
 instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- 
 only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change 
 the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 
 board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back 
 of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward 
 that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing 
 where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
 That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
 pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
 leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
 the batteries?

 ... Matt

 On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
 crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
 new housing too.

 See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

 It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
 have to assemble it even with all new parts.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

 Hi there,

 I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

 Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
 batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
 which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
 transceiver.

 Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

 73,

 Matt, AC9BQ

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Meant to say 5th bar flickering.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 6:30 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Roy,

 On the missing letters, all I can think of is perhaps it is
 power-hunting -starting low and eventually going higher (the receiving
 station may not hear the weaker initial signal)
 The way to prevent power hunting is to ignore the advice commonly given
 set the power level to maximum and adjust the audio to control the
 desired power output - that does NOT work for the K2, the K3 or the
 KX3.  Adjust the audio level on the K3 to produce 4 bars solid with the
 5th bar solid on the K3 ALC display.  Use the power knob to set the
 desired power level.

 On the second item, refresh your information on how the K3 does data
 modes vs. frequency display.  Data A will show you the carrier
 frequency, and the frequency on the waterfall is actually that carrier
 frequency plus (minus for LSB) the audio pitch sent by your software
 application - even though many applications show the actual frequency
 of the signal, that is only because of the calculations done by that
 software.

 Now move on to AFSK - the frequency displayed by the K3 depends on the
 shift setting in the K3 menu - the frequency displayed will be the mark
 frequency (consistent with MMTTY, but different than clicking on an RTTY
 signal on the waterfall in DATA A submode.

 PSK D will show you the actual frequency of the PSK31 signal (similar to
 the carrier plus [minus] audio frequency seen in DATA A, and FSK D will
 show you the actual mark frequency.
 That is explained (in different words) in the K3 manual.

 Have great fun with data modes, they are great once you get things set
 up right and become familiar with whatever turns out to be your favorite
 software applications.

 73,
 Don W3FPR




 On 8/9/2012 6:06 PM, Roy Morris wrote:
 When I transmit my buffer I am told that the first four characters of the
 first word in the string are not being transmitted.  The string on my K3
 display shows that all characters are scrolling correctly.  I went into the
 setup screen and changed the timeout from 0 to 3000 thinking that would cure
 this problem, but it appears not to have corrected it.  What would cause the
 first word to be shortened, and what might be the cure?

 Also, when I go from one data mode to another the cursor can change several
 Khz up or down from the center frequency.  I am sometimes able to get it
 back to center if I change the mark and space pairs with the PITCH control.
 Once the cursor is centered I can go to other data modes and it  stays near
 the center line.  I am new to the data modes so I must not be doing
 something right.  Any help to enlighten me would be appreciated.  Roy Morris
 W4WFB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press
down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
to new wires. 

When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
connection. 

My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
replacing it is no problem at all. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Matt Hancock
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 3:26 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp pins,
I'll have enough wire to open the back.

Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening up in
the future!

... Matt

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Matt,

 If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old
crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the
Final Assembly section of the manual.
 If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the
leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

 The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.-
only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change
the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1
board.

 Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

 There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back
of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward
that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing
where the flanges of the crimp pin slide.

 73,

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Of course, Ron is correct, those crimp pins can be removed from the 
housing, but I have seen many that had the crimp pins mangled so neither 
the crimp pins nor the housing were able to be salvaged.

As far as removing the back without popping the connector, yes, it can 
be done, but the connector is so easy to put back on, and it takes a lot 
of care to keep it connected, I just simplify and remove the connector 
when the back is removed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 6:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
 locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the ears. If you press
 down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
 you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
 that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
 to new wires.

 When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
 locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
 they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
 connection.

 My KX1 has the stock battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
 the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
 without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
 replacing it is no problem at all.

 73, Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Excellent suggestion, Dick. 

Such events, along with a person setting something of the operating desk
that bumps the paddles, is one of the major causes of ditters. Not only
are they annoying, a Ham in the USA is committing a serious Federal offense
by allowing transmissions not under his/her personal control. 

(As an O.T. myself, one of the few old things I enjoy breaking are old
habits, Hi)

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I have two furry family members who often visit me when I'm operating...and
often come into the shack when I'm not there.
Naturally, being cats, they climb all over the place including my operating
position.

Heres a tip:  if you leave your radio on when you aren't present, engage Tx
TEST to prevent accidental carrier transmission if they want to try out
their fists on your keys.

Sure, I could shut the station off, but I tend to cling to my old ways when
I used hollow state gear (last rig before the K3 was a National
NCX-3) and it required long warm-ups.

--
73 de Dick, ka1oz

Elecraft K3/100(K) #859
G5RV Doublet
Titan-DX Vertical

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread vk4tux
Hi Roy, Until you find the issue sending four dots before the message may
help, i.e.
cqdx  etc, such that the rxer sees cqdx at least.

Yes the setup delay holds tx for that period at the end of tx input and does
not provide a lead.

The only suggestion I have is increasing :  CONFIG:TX DLY.value,

and/or Using a P3SVGA data tx method other than vox for psk31, where a enter
or cntrl key sends the stored text entered..

Adrian ... vk4tux



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-PSK31-Problem-tp7560706p7560713.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
TX TEST works great for the K3, but there is no equal on the K2.  I 
would suggest for the K2, tap the mode button to put it into SSB of RTTY 
mode - especially if you use PTT and not VOX.  If the dot paddle is 
closed, yes, it will go into transmit, but there will be no audio to 
produce a signal unless the cat purrs into the microphone.

For the KX3, there is mo TX TEST, so there too, I recommend setting the 
mode to SSB.

Actually, the best prevention is to arrange your station antenna 
switching to connect a dummy load - then when you leave the operating 
position, just switch the antenna to the dummy load position and be 
done with it - no worries.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 7:11 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Excellent suggestion, Dick.

 Such events, along with a person setting something of the operating desk
 that bumps the paddles, is one of the major causes of ditters. Not only
 are they annoying, a Ham in the USA is committing a serious Federal offense
 by allowing transmissions not under his/her personal control.

 (As an O.T. myself, one of the few old things I enjoy breaking are old
 habits, Hi)

 73, Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 I have two furry family members who often visit me when I'm operating...and
 often come into the shack when I'm not there.
 Naturally, being cats, they climb all over the place including my operating
 position.

 Heres a tip:  if you leave your radio on when you aren't present, engage Tx
 TEST to prevent accidental carrier transmission if they want to try out
 their fists on your keys.

 Sure, I could shut the station off, but I tend to cling to my old ways when
 I used hollow state gear (last rig before the K3 was a National
 NCX-3) and it required long warm-ups.

 --
 73 de Dick, ka1oz

 Elecraft K3/100(K) #859
 G5RV Doublet
 Titan-DX Vertical

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[Elecraft] 100 watt amp for KX3

2012-08-09 Thread Richard Pongratz
Any news of the timing for the 100 watt amp for the KX3?  I don't see it on
the list of things to come. Sorry if I missed any announcements.

73, Dick, K5SHT

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Re: [Elecraft] 100 watt amp for KX3

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dick,

The latest information that I can recall said end of the year.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 7:32 PM, Richard Pongratz wrote:
 Any news of the timing for the 100 watt amp for the KX3?  I don't see it on
 the list of things to come. Sorry if I missed any announcements.

 73, Dick, K5SHT

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread Michael Thompson
Roy,

I have had a similar problem with characters missing from the beginning of a
transmission. Don is right that the radio is power hunting (I call it spooling 
up).
The way I have solved mine was I have used the K3 utility program and page
49 of the current K3 manual and redid the 'Transmitter Gain' then proceeded
to do the rest of the steps as Don points out with ALC adjust in transmit
TEST mode, then all was fine.

Michael N8NOC



On Aug 9, 2012, at 6:06 PM, Roy Morris wrote:

When I transmit my buffer I am told that the first four characters of the 
first word in the string are not being transmitted.  The string on my K3 
display shows that all characters are scrolling correctly.  I went into the 
setup screen and changed the timeout from 0 to 3000 thinking that would cure 
this problem, but it appears not to have corrected it.  What would cause the 
first word to be shortened, and what might be the cure?

Also, when I go from one data mode to another the cursor can change several 
Khz up or down from the center frequency.  I am sometimes able to get it 
back to center if I change the mark and space pairs with the PITCH control. 
Once the cursor is centered I can go to other data modes and it  stays near 
the center line.  I am new to the data modes so I must not be doing 
something right.  Any help to enlighten me would be appreciated.  Roy Morris 
W4WFB 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread Phil Kane
On 8/9/2012 4:31 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Actually, the best prevention is to arrange your station antenna 
 switching to connect a dummy load - then when you leave the operating 
 position, just switch the antenna to the dummy load position and be 
 done with it - no worries.

My operation is mostly PSK31 and SSB.  My tsble microphone has a
disable switch that neuters the PTT function, and my digital setup is
fail safe with no signal.

Everyone's setup is different.

  --
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB question.

2012-08-09 Thread Michael Babineau
I agree with Jim, KL7CC.  I recently completed the KSB2 module for my K2 (S/N 
5995) and I also 
use a Kenwood MC-43 hand mic. I  even received unsolicited positive comments on 
my TX 
audio quality in a recent SSB contest that I participated in.  I believe that 
there may have been
some issues with SSB audio in the earlier days of the K2 but those have been 
long resolved. 

I also have a K1 and I can say without hesitation that the K1 is a great little 
radio but the K2 receiver is 
truly amazing in comparison. In spite of the fact that the K2 design is almost 
15 years old, its RX performance
still ranks up there with radios costing nearly 10 times as much. If you can 
build a K1 you can build a K2, it just 
requires some patience.  As KL7CC said the nice thing is that you can build a 
basic K2 and add on options over
time.  

Michael VE3WMB 

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[Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread George O'Brien
I used RUMped during Field Day this year via the KX3USB and my MacBookAir
on CW.  It worked very well. 

73 de George, AB4FH
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 Problem

2012-08-09 Thread vk4tux
Ok On the power hunt stuff. In the 14v days I always had issue with power
level as described,
despite many many many tx power calibrations.

Since running the K3 at 15v there has been no misbehaviour.

My theory is the current sensor playing up at the lower voltage.

Adrian ... vk4tux



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[Elecraft] Lightning damage here

2012-08-09 Thread Don Wilhelm
I am currently computer handicapped because of a nearby lightning 
strike last evening.
I think I have accessed the damage, but there may be more to be revealed 
once more devices come on-line.

It seems the damage propagated via the wired Ethernet connections - I 
lost 3 (maybe 4) computers on my home network, a router, 2 network 
switches and the NAS file server.  Fortunately, the file server (which 
contains all backup data) only lost the Ethernet connect capability - 
the files are still intact.

What I am saying is that I will be limping along until the equipment I 
ordered comes in and can be placed in service.

So if you send me email and do not get a prompt response, it may be 
because my P-P network is in the process of being updated.  I expect it 
will be mid-next-week before I have everything up and running again.

NO damage to any of the ham gear, and I attribute that to a good 
grounding system coupled with having all the radio gear connected to 
dummy loads during the disturbance.

73,
Don W3FPR
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[Elecraft] Any good experience/recommendations with boost regulators with K3?

2012-08-09 Thread Jim Harris
Bob,
I've successfully used a MFJ-4416B boost regulator with my K2 and K3.  I 
started using it with my K2 as after 3 or so hours on a 40 AH battery I would 
start getting reports of distorted audio on phone.  With the booster I could 
get another hour or two out of the battery.  After I purchased a K3 I used it 
with it as well.  Somewhere along the line I also purchased a 70 AH battery and 
the booster worked well with that also.  
I never received any reports of noise on my audio with the booster in use and 
did not find any noise or unusual birdies from the booster.  Not to say it is a 
clean unit, just that I never had any reason to suspect it was generating RF 
noise.  
If you purchase the MFJ-4416 be sure you get the B version.  The previous 
version would sometimes blow an internal fuse if you double clutched the PTT 
within 3-4 seconds of each other.  I think MFJ is only selling the B version 
but there could be other versions on the used market.

Take pride in the USA. 73

Jim, W0EM 

Sort of off topic, but I was wondering if anyone has any 
positive experience using boost regulators fed from a lead acid battery to 
drive their K3?
73, Bob, WB4SON 


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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning damage here

2012-08-09 Thread Tony Estep
On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 8:15 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 a nearby lightning strike last evening

 
That is a bummer, Don. Lightning can make its way throughout the house by
various evil means. A few years ago a strike hit a tree across the street,
traveled across the crown of nearby trees to our roof, thence into the
house wiring and fried a TV set, the lawn-sprinkler system, the microwave,
the sound card in my son's laptop, the display on my FT-1000MP, and my
2M/440 base-station radio. If it wants to get you, it will. Good luck
getting things back to normal.

Tony KT0NY

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread va3bxg
But my friends have pasted their test.

With multiple question test, their score was all over 70%. (They were allowed 
to meow their answers)

;-)
a 'kosher ham'

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 16:11:17 
To: ka...@arrl.net; 'Elecraft Reflector'elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT:  Pets in the Shack

Excellent suggestion, Dick. 

Such events, along with a person setting something of the operating desk
that bumps the paddles, is one of the major causes of ditters. Not only
are they annoying, a Ham in the USA is committing a serious Federal offense
by allowing transmissions not under his/her personal control. 

(As an O.T. myself, one of the few old things I enjoy breaking are old
habits, Hi)

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I have two furry family members who often visit me when I'm operating...and
often come into the shack when I'm not there.
Naturally, being cats, they climb all over the place including my operating
position.

Heres a tip:  if you leave your radio on when you aren't present, engage Tx
TEST to prevent accidental carrier transmission if they want to try out
their fists on your keys.

Sure, I could shut the station off, but I tend to cling to my old ways when
I used hollow state gear (last rig before the K3 was a National
NCX-3) and it required long warm-ups.

--
73 de Dick, ka1oz

Elecraft K3/100(K) #859
G5RV Doublet
Titan-DX Vertical

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[Elecraft] splash

2012-08-09 Thread Scott Dunlavey
OK... I give up... How do I set the splash ... I want my name or call 
to show at start up  Cant seam to do it... hahaha


Scott
K3 5876
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread GOBrien
My reply didn't get attached to this thread, so I will try again.  Yes, there
is a logging program that uses the serial port of the KX3 via software CW. 
I used RUMped very successfully during Field Day this year on my KX3 #151. 
I connected to it via the KXUSB cable to my 2011 MacBook Air.  I can
recommend RUMped as a contesting app to anyone running OSX.  73 de George,
AB4FH





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Re: [Elecraft] {K3 KX3} Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Charles Sanders
While not one of the Big Three, CQ/X - GPS Enabled Software for Mobile
Contesting (www.no5w.com) supports the use of KY keying, in addition to
WinKey keying.

73/Chuck/NO5W
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Scott
Rumlog and rumped both work well, but Rumped is contest oriented. 73, Scott 
aa0aa
Enviado desde mi oficina móvil BlackBerry® de Telcel

-Original Message-
From: GOBrien gobrie...@charter.net
Sender: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 19:36:23 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

My reply didn't get attached to this thread, so I will try again.  Yes, there
is a logging program that uses the serial port of the KX3 via software CW. 
I used RUMped very successfully during Field Day this year on my KX3 #151. 
I connected to it via the KXUSB cable to my 2011 MacBook Air.  I can
recommend RUMped as a contesting app to anyone running OSX.  73 de George,
AB4FH





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Re: [Elecraft] splash

2012-08-09 Thread Joe K2UF
Scott,

Using the K3 Utility on your pc use the 'configuration' tab.  Use 'edit
power on banner'.

Good luck

73  Joe K2UF

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Scott Dunlavey
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 10:30 PM
To: elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] splash

OK... I give up... How do I set the splash ... I want my name or call 
to show at start up  Cant seam to do it... hahaha


Scott
K3 5876
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Re: [Elecraft] splash

2012-08-09 Thread vk4tux
This is a great feature.

I placed my callsign and phone number on the bootup splash msg etc.

This is very useful if your beloved K3 gets stolen (prove ownership), lost
or otherwise missing.

Adrian ... vk4tux



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Pets in the Shack

2012-08-09 Thread Kevin Cozens
On 12-08-09 07:31 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 TX TEST works great for the K3, but there is no equal on the K2.

On a K2 you can put the unit in CW test mode or switch from VOX to PTT when 
in SSB mode.

-- 
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/   |Nerds make the shiny things that distract
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  | the mouth-breathers, and that's why we're
 | powerful!
#include disclaimer/favourite | --Chris Hardwick
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[Elecraft] OT: covers vs cases

2012-08-09 Thread Rose
It's suprising the number of folks who refer to cover or
dust cover when they actually mean a carrying case or
carrying bag!

The same appears to be true when referring to a case.
Many actually mean the dust cover that sets atop a rig
on the desk.

This can actually become a costly ... for me ... matter.
Does anyone have a suggestion for better names for my
products that might help eliminate the confusion?

73!

Rose - N7HKW
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: covers vs cases

2012-08-09 Thread Alan Bloom
Hi Rose,

How about just dust cover and carrying case.  That should clear up
the confusion.

Alan N1AL


On Fri, 2012-08-10 at 04:35 +, Rose wrote:
 It's suprising the number of folks who refer to cover or
 dust cover when they actually mean a carrying case or
 carrying bag!
 
 The same appears to be true when referring to a case.
 Many actually mean the dust cover that sets atop a rig
 on the desk.
 
 This can actually become a costly ... for me ... matter.
 Does anyone have a suggestion for better names for my
 products that might help eliminate the confusion?
 
 73!
 
 Rose - N7HKW
 elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-09 Thread Barry LaZar
I infer that contesting and contest CW aids are what you are after. I 
use N1MM contest logging software to control my K1EL keyer. It works 
with any radio that can be used with a key. However there are other 
contest logging packages around, but most are designed to operate with 
an external keyers also. Actually, this is a fairly simple approach that 
allows for some flexibility.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

On 8/9/2012 12:01 PM, Ignacy wrote:
 Both K3 and KX3 can send CW via a software command. Is this feature useful
 for contesting? Does any contesting software support  CW via command?

 This feature is especially important for KX3 where there is no possibility
 of keying via serial cable. Also for K3 if an interface does not allow for
 CTS/RTS, e.g., if one uses Microham StationMaster.

 Ignacy, NO9E



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