There are test objects with a selection of features, including various angles
and overhangs. Try printing without support then observe which angle it goes to
a bird's nest. That's the minimum angle you can get away with printing without
support. Of course there's a setting for that. Yup, the
I doubt Stratasys is able to do anything with their patent on a box. There are
several FDM printers on the market that are pretty much fully enclosed, have
been for quite a while.
On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 7:26:41 AM MDT, Bruce Layne
wrote:
On 6/3/20 2:25 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
Should be a setting somewhere to control how tightly the part is attached to
the raft. Rafts should be pretty easy to peel off by hand. Ideally, once you
have the right settings, a raft shouldn't be needed if there's enough flat
surface in contact with the bed.
On Wednesday, June 3, 2020,
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 14:54:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> You problem finding a setting in Cura might be that Cura is not
> showing it to you. By default you get a very "dumbed down" list of
> settings. But look undr "prefferences --> Settings" and there is a
> long list of setting and
You problem finding a setting in Cura might be that Cura is not showing it
to you. By default you get a very "dumbed down" list of settings. But
look undr "prefferences --> Settings" and there is a long list of setting
and checkboxes. If you check the box Cura will show you the setting.
Most
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:32:55 andy pugh wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 17:20, Gene Heskett
> wrote:
>
> And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't
> "raft"
>
> > thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut,
> > and about .4mm thick, centered
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 12:25:24 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:
> The .4mm wide “tongue” you describe could be support structure
> automatically put there by the Cura slicer. You should be able to
> control how/if/where these are placed.
>
A menu item I've not explored yet. Didn't figure my things
On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 17:20, Gene Heskett wrote:
And I just found something else that is a show stopper. That isn't "raft"
> thats blocking the nut entry! it left a tongue the width of the nut, and
> about .4mm thick, centered in the height of the nut channel, and
> blocking the nut insert hole
The .4mm wide “tongue” you describe could be support structure automatically
put there by the Cura slicer. You should be able to control how/if/where these
are placed.
> On Jun 3, 2020, at 11:18 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 11:23:08 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>> On
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 11:23:08 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
> > >
> > > It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
>
> I'll look again
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 10:33:28 andy pugh wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
> >
> > It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
I'll look again the next time I run it, I'd assume 20% low is ok, but 2%
high can be
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 09:23:44 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 6/3/20 2:25 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > That sounds like a heated enclosure might be worthwhile, keeping it
> > warm enough to stress relieve?
>
> That completely obvious idea is locked up in a patent held by
> Stratasys, that should have
On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 15:26, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> Question, cura hasn't an obvious line feed speed,
>
> It's in the "Speed" section of the settings.
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 07:44:31 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > >
> > > > too. I usually use 20% or 25% infill. If I want
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 07:44:31 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:
> > On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > >
> > > > too. I usually use 20% or 25% infill. If I want
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 06:10:18 andy pugh wrote:
> On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> >
> > > too. I usually use 20% or 25% infill. If I want stronger parts
> > > I'll increase the number of outer layers.
> >
> >
On Wed, 3 Jun 2020 at 07:27, Gene Heskett wrote:
> 50% fill makes very strong parts, but 20% fill is strong
> > too. I usually use 20% or 25% infill. If I want stronger parts I'll
> > increase the number of outer layers.
>
> I'll have to ask how you do that with cura?
Presuming that the part
Here's an inside corner trick for FDM printers. Model a small cylindrical
'bite' out of the corner, similar to overshooting the corners a bit in a plate
with an end mill so that the pointy corner of what fits the hole will just
touch the outer curve of the rounded overshoot.
What the goal is
3D printers do not love a wobbly base, such as a saggy folding plastic table
with styrofoam on top.
On the other hand, a solid slab with some dense foam below, atop a rigid
support, works well. Dampens higher frequency vibrations while not allowing
things to jerk around. Or fix it very rigidly
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 01:32:50 Bruce Layne wrote:
> 3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED
>
> I print on borosilicate glass. I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
> first layer adhesion. The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
> apply. I use a clean dry borosilicate glass
On Wednesday 03 June 2020 00:18:05 Lawrence Glaister wrote:
> Hi Gene,
> One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been
> missed: The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC
> and the printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like
> a serial port
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 21:05:42 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux
> unlike the old distribution specific packages.
I hadn't come in contact with such a critter yet, so that was new to me.
I guess they figured on me having
3D PRINTING - WHAT WORKS FOR ME AND WHAT I'VE LEARNED
I print on borosilicate glass. I use Elmer's Xtreme glue stick for
first layer adhesion. The larger 40 gram stick takes less time to
apply. I use a clean dry borosilicate glass plate. Apply the glue when
the plate is room temperature.
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 20:30:42 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> > > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and
Slow down the speed of the head a bit. Or increase the extrusion a bit. May
need a little of both. What was your bed prep? I find that scrubbing glue stick
on the bed then wiping with a wet paper towel to leave an even film behind
works pretty good for PLA, and when the bed cools the print pops
Hi Gene,
One thing to mention about your printer that seems to have been missed:
The USB connector... when you plug a usb cable between your PC and the
printer (usually micro) USB connector, the printer looks like a serial
port device to the PC.
Using a program such as repetier-host
like to put some
new open source electronics and sw in the other.
Thanks again!
-- Ralph
From: Thaddeus Waldner [thadw...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 6:24 PM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
troller (EMC)
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >
> > > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
>
apimage is an app image. Supposed to work on any distro of Linux unlike the old
distribution specific packages.
On Tuesday, June 2, 2020, 10:40:25 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad
I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in
order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track
needs to be slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020, 20:09 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> > printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> > I print small gears with 1.6 wall
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 18:22:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try
> printing on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern
> I print small gears with 1.6 wall thickness. Slowing the speed to
> 30mm/sec works some times
>
Measure your filament at several different spots with calipers and make sure
that the “filiment size” setting In the slicer matches your measurement exactly.
> On Jun 2, 2020, at 4:57 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 16:37:08 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
>> I just printed a
First, It bears repeating that the printer I’m using is Not a “normal” one.
Stratasys Dinension Elite, can’t print pla because it burns it up while loading
and clogs the nozzle with carbon, works best to print ABS with hot end temp at
275C, runs enclosure temperature at 75C, and uses a
Cura has about 200 settings that you can change. You might try printing
on a raft or using say 50% infill density and Gyroid pattern I print small
gears with 1.6 wall thickness. Slowing the speed to 30mm/sec works some
times
There are so many things to get right it will take a long time.
I think your end mill cutter analogy is useful. What I would add is that in
order to get good layer adhesion, the actual width of the 3d-printed track
needs to be slightly “squashed” by the nozzle as it is placed. A good rule of
thumb in my experience is to use somewhere between 2-3 times the
I just printed a set of 3mm pitch GT3 timing pulleys with my 0.4 mm nozzle.
They came out just fine.
The final profile of the pulley tooth is not determined by the
nozzle diameter it is limited by the step size on the printer. My pulley
fit the belt well enough that tooth shape is not the
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:50:54 Karl Jacobs wrote:
> Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to
> slice for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
> Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
> nicely too, of course. Good luck
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020, Dave Matthews wrote:
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
Docs? The entire printer is open source.
No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
language barrier that
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 12:37:54 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> > On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
>
> wrote:
> > > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
> > >
> > > No
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 16:39, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only.
1) Cura is not part of your printer.
2) Cura is available for Mac, Linux and Windows.
3) The Cura source is here:
Gene, just make it executable and run the appImage. I use Cura to slice
for a Delta-printer and use LinuxCNC (actually, Machinekit on a
Beaglebone) to drive the hardware. Marlin on Arduino hardware works
nicely too, of course. Good luck with 3D-printing, just needs the usual
learning curve.
Karl
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 11:48:18 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
> >
> > No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> >
On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 11:39 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Docs? The entire printer is open source.
>
> No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
> language barrier that prevents a request for that source code
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 05:57:59 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Docs? The entire printer is open source.
No it is NOT! The Cura slicer is windows only. And there will be a
language barrier that prevents a request for that source code from ever
being replied to. Been there, done that too many
Docs? The entire printer is open source. The docs are on the SD card but
if there is no SD card the content of the card is on Github. There is a
video walkthrough and a PDF doc both in assembly and setup.
THey also have the CAD files for the printer, Should you want to make your
own parts or
On Tuesday 02 June 2020 04:06:16 andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> >
> > port, looks like an OTG port. Does anyone know what thats about?
> > No other documentation came with it.
>
> Is there a
On Tue, 2 Jun 2020 at 01:22, Gene Heskett wrote:
> The controller has an empty u-sd socket and a smallish usb
> port, looks like an OTG port. Does anyone know what thats about? No
> other documentation came with it.
Is there a CD with it? Or an SD card? They tend to provide docs that way
On Monday 01 June 2020 14:17:14 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Monday 01 June 2020 01:02:01 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > On Sunday 31 May 2020 22:58:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> >
> > Second, my testing for motor heating may not have been close enough
> > to stopped as I was just turning the speed down to
It’s common practice to have a fan on the ‘cold end’ of the print head to keep
the heater and motor from prematurely softening the filament.
N. Christopher Perry
> On May 31, 2020, at 1:29 PM, Chris Albertson
> wrote:
>
> Use a metal hub on the gear, especially if it connects directly to a
Yes, electronic CAD and mechanical CAD have already merged some years ago.
Even with free software.Take a look at the gadget I made in the link
below. I designed a PCB in KiCAD and had the boards made in China then
imported the 3D model of the PCB into Fusion and used that model as a
On Monday 01 June 2020 01:02:01 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 31 May 2020 22:58:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> Second, my testing for motor heating may not have been close enough to
> stopped as I was just turning the speed down to about a tick a second
> from the generator which may not have
105F is about 40C. 40C is fine for PLA.
If you do have heat issues, the first solution is to use ABS plastic as it
can handle temps up to about 90C. and I hope your motor never gets that
hot.They also make a glass-filled nylon that is even stronger when
hot and very stiff and hard
On Monday 01 June 2020 01:02:01 Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> Second, my testing for motor heating may not have been close enough to
> stopped as I was just turning the speed down to about a tick a second
> from the generator which may not have been long enough to cause a
> current turndown. So I'll
> I was about to post the same thing. OpenSCAD s not a general purpose CAD
> system that you can use for machine design.
>
> How to check for clearance: On a normal CAD system you can have commands
> like "move this enough so it contacts this other object." I do that, then
> move it back by
On Sunday 31 May 2020 22:58:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Is the timing belt so long that it will never need to make one full
> revolution? If so you can buy a length of belt material, cut it to
> length and use a splice plate. Almost all 3D printers use this trick.
>A short length of belt
A stepper motor running so hot it'd soften PLA is running way too hot. Either
adjust how it's being driven or switch to a motor capable of handling the power
without overheating.
On Sunday, May 31, 2020, 12:53:34 PM MDT, Nicklas SB Karlsson
wrote:
> Greetings all you 3d printer users;
Is the timing belt so long that it will never need to make one full
revolution? If so you can buy a length of belt material, cut it to length
and use a splice plate. Almost all 3D printers use this trick.A short
length of belt material makes a nice splice plate if you turn the teeth
around
On Sunday 31 May 2020 18:07:15 Chris Albertson wrote:
> I was about to post the same thing. OpenSCAD s not a general purpose
> CAD system that you can use for machine design.
>
> How to check for clearance: On a normal CAD system you can have
> commands like "move this enough so it contacts
I was about to post the same thing. OpenSCAD s not a general purpose CAD
system that you can use for machine design.
How to check for clearance: On a normal CAD system you can have commands
like "move this enough so it contacts this other object." I do that, then
move it back by the required
No, swarf protection could help with cooling. What if the swarf protection
where a form fitting plastic shell that was (say) 4mm larger than the motor
and pulley and covered everything with just a 4mm air gap? Then you used
forced air from a fan in the gap.
Hand held drill motors work like
On Sunday 31 May 2020 12:07:51 Martin Dobbins wrote:
> Caveats:
>
> 1:I'm not a 3d printer user, but I may become one after reading this
> thread: Thanks (I think)
>
> 2:I have very little experience with Openscad.
>
> Serve the required grains of salt with the following as required
>
> Gene
Have used Freecad a little bit and it have a measure function, are not certain
but might happen it used Openscad for rendering. Would guess Freecad look at
the geometry to figure out measure.
> OpenSCAD doesn’t have a measure feature. All that you get is a model preview
> overlaid on a 3D
OpenSCAD doesn’t have a measure feature. All that you get is a model preview
overlaid on a 3D scale
You can, of course, look at the code that created each feature and read the
dimensions there.
I can’t imagine drawing up a complex machine with OpenSCAD, but apparently some
people do it.
> Greetings all you 3d printer users;
>
> 1; Which is a measure of the OD of the rendered pulley, those areas of
> the preview gfx are blank, although the scale marks are there, they are
> drawn behind the sprocket image. so one could get a very rough idea of
> the total radius of the finished
Any CAD system should allow an exact measure, click on a circle, and see
the diameter out to the full resolution you have set, typically 0.001mm.
You should be reading out the numbers not visually comparing to an
on-screen scale. An on-screen scale would be limited to the pixel
resolution of the
Use a metal hub on the gear, especially if it connects directly to a motor
that gets hot. The other thing is to use ABS plastic or maybe PET
plastic. PLA is easy to print but has the lowest melt temperature.
I had the idea the other day to make the metal gear hub extend well past
the end of
Caveats:
1:I'm not a 3d printer user, but I may become one after reading this thread:
Thanks (I think)
2:I have very little experience with Openscad.
Serve the required grains of salt with the following as required
Gene Heskett wrote:
>1; Which is a measure of the OD of the rendered pulley,
Greetings all you 3d printer users;
1; Which is a measure of the OD of the rendered pulley, those areas of
the preview gfx are blank, although the scale marks are there, they are
drawn behind the sprocket image. so one could get a very rough idea of
the total radius of the finished gear in mm.
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