Re: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic
And now I remember where I recognize you from, Chris. Rav. I’m oh-so-imaginitively MarjorieW. ==Marjorie Wilser (wandering a bit off topic) > On Aug 19, 2016, at 7:46 AM, Chris Laning wrote: > > If the reason you need to know is to figure out how to wash it, you could > simply plan to hand wash it to be on the safe side. Baby things are small and > usually don't take forever to wash or dry. > > If there are other concerns (such as potential allergy), the smell and feel > tests should give you a clue. You can also ask other knitters to smell and > feel it if you're not sure you know how to tell. > > Alternatively -- neither of the "destructive" tests requires more than, say, > half an inch of yarn or a pea-sized quantity of fuzz. Carefully clipping off > some "fuzz" from the inside without actually cutting any yarn, or looking for > a place to clip a little off the inside of a seam allowance, could let you be > sure. > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] An amazing sewing machine
Brace yourselves. Mrs. General Tom Thumb had a sewing machine built to scale! FWIW I’ve seen her tiny corset at the Ringling museum in Sarasota, Florida. I doubt she made it herself, but it is tempting to hypothesize. http://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/yes-mrs-tom-thumb-had-sewing-machine ==Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating
They also liked hammered copper— did you note the glasses underneath the ones linked? ==Marjorie Wilser > On Mar 24, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: > > The furniture mass-produced by Stickley and his imitators was extremely > popular, as were all those prefab bungalow houses from Sears, etc., and the > premade room dividers and other built-ins you could buy to put in them. > > Thanks but I forgot to say, clear glasses. > > Best, > > Fran > > On 3/24/2016 4:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: >> The arts and crafts movement shunned mass produced items. So, how about >> something like this: >> http://www.worldmarket.com/product/carats+barware.do?&from=fn >> > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fabric check
Thanks to Fran’s post about the fabric seller I have one I want to check. Gut instinct says this might be perfect for a Regency over a color, but I would like opinions from kind friends. I’m usually doing 50-70 years later than Regency. http://tinyurl.com/z5by7bw ==Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA
Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns are being sold. ==Marjorie > On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb wrote (in > part): > > So far they're showing 4: > > Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50, Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60 > > Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740 > > Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750 > > Man's Coat, France, 1790–95 > > > > > Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and > whether more patterns are going to become available? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear
I wore emerald. ==Marjorie > On Jan 27, 2016, at 7:47 AM, scourney wrote: > > I thought that was the comment for the mother of the groom - show up, shut > up, and wear beige. I'm a rapidly greying blonde with pale skin, and in beige > I'd be almost invisible. Which perhaps is the point.Susan > > Original message > From: annbw...@aol.com > Date: 01/27/2016 6:15 AM (GMT-08:00) > To: h-cost...@indra.com > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear > > The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think > another color would be more fun. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Charity Sewing
I vote for fiction. It seems wrong on so many levels. You don’t “cut a hole" in a (new!) stocking to darn. You cut a thread and let it ravel a little. In that day, I suspect making ANY kind of hole would never have happened. You wouldn’t destroy new goods for any reason, much less to make busy work. However, the very idea of them darning stockings in a social setting is suspect. It just wouldn’t be done in polite circles. Wish I could help on the reference. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ > On Dec 18, 2015, at 2:05 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: > > A young woman is visiting a household with other young women, and they are > darning some stockings. It would not be proper to give her one of the > family's stockings to mend, so they cut a hole in a new stocking for her > to darn. > > The whole idea seems silly to me, because it seems that there would be > some new clothing to be made or something for her to do that would not > require making busy work. That's why it sounds more like historical > fiction. > > Does it sound familiar to anyone? > > Thanks! > -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Congrats on your pattern publication, Emily and I’ll look you up! I am ever-so-conveniently (but unoriginally) MarjorieW on Rav. :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ > On Dec 18, 2015, at 8:53 AM, Emily Gilbert wrote: > > Thanks! I've only had one design published so far (the A Second Chance for > Mr. Rushworth Socks in the 2014 issue of Jane Austen Knits magazine), but I > have a shawl pattern that I'm hoping to publish independently soon. My > Ravelry name is LadySylvia; the sock pattern is linked from my profile, and > the shawl will be put up for sale there. > http://www.ravelry.com/designers/emily-gilbert > > Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?
Mine— alas, still stored. I miss her. However, were she out to play, she’d have her choice of several large hand knit lace shawls. I have spent a lot of enjoyable time knitting lace the last few years. It has distracted me from doing a lot of sewing. Since SCA-period groups are my only local choice I dabble occasionally there, but not enough to warrant new clothes as yet. Since my Elizabethans are not so comfy for many events I am working on hand-sewing a linen dress of the t-tunic persuasion with wide gores in the skirt. Then I sewed a set of gores in, inside-out. The project is currently on hold. Those seams were tight! :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mouse-proof underwear
Cats are, of course, not so easy to travel with. Miss Browning was on a journey, as I thought from the quoted text. ==Marjorie Wilser (who routinely travels with 2 cats. . . but never easily!) > On Dec 17, 2015, at 2:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: > > Maybe bloomers tied closed at the bottom so mice couldn't run up her legs? > I'd have also gotten a cat. > ;-) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
As a fellow knitter I’d be very interested to know about your designs. Do you have a Rav name? ==Marjorie Wilser > On Dec 17, 2015, at 12:40 PM, Emily Gilbert wrote: > > Having heard Ann's talk at the JASNA AGM, I can confirm that it was excellent > in person too! > > I'm still here too. I haven't been doing much sewing lately, aside from > making a chemisette to go with my Regency day dress this fall; most of my > creative energies these days are focused on knitting design. > > Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Hah, I like plain sewing for events. Darning. Mending— unpretentious stuff to prove to the general public that it IS possible to do the job neatly and make things last! ==Marjorie Wilser > On Dec 17, 2015, at 11:47 AM, Terry wrote: > > Makes sense. That's what I do in my sewing circle--bring the nice stuff to > work on and leave the ugly stuff at home. > > Terry ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?
Another one here— I am NOT on FB very often, finding it too much of a signal-to-noise issue. ==Marjorie Wilser > On Dec 17, 2015, at 6:34 AM, Kathryn Pinner wrote: > > I'm here. Still like to see what's posted. I'm not on Facebook. > > Kate Pinner > > Costume & Scenic Design > > Tech. Coord., Kelsey Theatre, MCCC > > 609-570-3584 > > pinn...@mccc.edu ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Text and textile
Love this one! As a bookbinder and costumer. . . :) http://blogs.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/theconveyor/2014/06/06/texts-and-textiles-finding-manuscripts-in-unusual-places/#.VcQbkobyU2M.facebook ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c
Thanks!! Definitely good to hear from you, Deb! Any plans to be in this neck of the woods during the year? I think we’re overdue for a visit (despite my current costuming non-activity). ==Marjorie On Mar 6, 2015, at 2:00 PM, Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker wrote: > I'd bet that Scot cloth was a plaid, but it could be a linen, similar to > Irish linen. > > I agree that ferret was a silk ribbon and/or a narrow woolen tape. Usually > silk, though. > > Dow lace perplexes me, since dowlas was defined as "A coarse kind of linen" > in 1797. > > Happy sewing, > Deb Salisbury ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c
Interesting blog post at http://vita-brevis.org/2015/02/widow-lydia-scottows-wardrobe/?utm_source=twgnewsletter&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=twg729 discusses historic fabric names from family accounts between appx. 1701- 1705. I’d be curious if any list members have reflections on the names listed there and their definitions. There are a few terms near the end of the entry which the author, not a sewer, couldn’t identify: nor can I. Have fun! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Thanks very much for including bust cup adjustments, Hope. As a D+ I often run into issues with commercial patterns. I’m used to taking the time but Regency is not my decade/s of custom. I have a stalled Regency (not a commercial one) which I could now bring out and finish thanks to your comments :) Humbly in your debt, ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Feb 27, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote: > On 2/27/15 1:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: >> Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if >> this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to >> make it HA? >> > > Butterick is getting better with their Regency patterns. That said, here is > what I would change: > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo
No. Odd pose is probably natural for a little guy who couldn’t stand still. Belt not all that odd for the era. Dunno about the shoes (or the lack). I’d guess if they weren’t rich he might have to wait for an older sibling’s pair?? In my experience postmortem photos were universally shot with the subject laid out as if sleeping peacefully, not standing up with siblings. ==Marjorie Wilser On Jan 14, 2015, at 10:07 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote: > I'll open a can of worms. I have a photo of my Dad and his siblings from > 1912 http://www.costumegallery.com/kids2.jpg . The little boy in this front > is he postmortem or handicapped. He passed away in 1912. I have always > thought the belt around him was odd and being shoeless. My Dad told me once > that his mother was very strict and would not allow them to go around > barefooted. Last week I was dusting the photo's frame and gave it a hard > look and thought it might be postmortem. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Barge's cement
So I have a repair project which is only marginally costume-y. However. It is a cheapie modern trunk made to look old with vinyl trim. The trim is stitched and then glued down. Yeah. Right. But it’s coming up all over and looks horrible. I still like the little trunk and want to make it shipshape again. In examining the offerings on Amazon, I find (link below) http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=barge%27s+cement Too many packages to make an intelligent choice from. All claim to be Barge’s cement. So, users of Barge’s for shoemaking and other wonders— which is my best bet, please? Many thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Thanks Sharon, thought of that and tried another solution. It’s not ideal either. However, JudithM is getting the 20 yd rolls back in next week, they tell me, so I’m in good shape now! On May 9, 2014, at 9:38 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: > You could always twist 2 or 3 together. > S. > > --- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Thanks, Deb! They seem to have everything to do with corset and hoops but no brim wire. It’s an interesting search though :) ==Marjorie On May 9, 2014, at 7:54 AM, Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker wrote: > Try the LA office of Farthingales: > http://www.farthingalesla.com/ > > I don't see it on their site, but they might have it offline. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Thanks Kay, their minimum order is $79 or something. . . alas! On May 9, 2014, at 3:48 AM, Katy Bishop wrote: > Tis site has milliner's wire and plastic brim wire... > > http://www.hatsupply.com/wire.htm > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Thanks, Sharon! I looked at florist wire but decided for the current application it was much too lightweight! On May 9, 2014, at 1:22 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: > Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire from > the craft store. Much cheaper. > Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Thanks!! Naturally it’s out of stock. (sigh) ==Marjorie On May 8, 2014, at 6:10 PM, Wicked Frau wrote: > Here too! https://www.judithm.com/ > > > On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste wrote: > >> I've had good luck with Hats by Leko: http://www.hatsupply.com >> >> >> On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser >> wrote: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
Depends on the weekend— 2nd Saturday of course I”m up there. Janet doesn’t list brim wire :( I emailed her hoping it’s just the site’s problem. On May 8, 2014, at 6:02 PM, Cin wrote: > http://www.alteryears.net/ > See you in July? I'm heading to CoCo. > > --cin > Cynthia Barnes > cinbar...@gmail.com > > > On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 5:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: >> I'm looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck. >> ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!
I hit their site but the minimum order is killer! $79??? Not me! Thanks! On May 8, 2014, at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste wrote: > I've had good luck with Hats by Leko: http://www.hatsupply.com > > > On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: > >> I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck. >> >> Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada…. >> slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum >> order of $76— their “low” price. Right. >> >> I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find a >> presence on the web?? >> >> I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends. >> >> Thanks, List! >> >> ==Marjorie >> >> >> ___ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >> > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Brim wire!
I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck. Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada…. slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum order of $76— their “low” price. Right. I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find a presence on the web?? I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends. Thanks, List! ==Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?
Many thanks! I have to haul the few books I have out of storage but I’ve an answer now that will take this (very minor) project where it needs to go! ==Marjorie On Mar 13, 2014, at 1:38 AM, michaela de bruce wrote: >> >> a. Not upper class, more middling. >> b. pleats are fine by me. >> c. have at least 4x waist. >> d. allowing for bum roll >> >> Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy'ing >> my >> buns back there tomorrow to pick them up. >> Too bad though- cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look! > > > Both Dorothea gowns (Sabine and Maria) are essentially gauged even though > they are both made from dense fabrics. Figure 340 in Patterns of Fashion > especially shows how fine the gathers are. They show so little of the > fabric that you can't really call them pleats, it is much closer to gauging > than what should be called cartridge pleating. Also the child's gown c1600 > is gathered. > > I may have a few issues with how confusing it gets when cartridge pleats > are meant to be padded and you know, look like a row of cartridges ;) But > the term is used to refer to even gathers. These are technically 17thC of > course. > > It's generally a case of make the fabric fit- which is pretty much the > extent of what tailors say in their manuals. Nothing about specific methods > or percentages. Just "make these parts match". Also important is how much > flare to the skirt gores you use because they really are a key to what > region and what time frame you are aiming for. And gores are really > important everywhere except for 1590s on and some of the Italian stuff. > Basically you get more hem for your buck by goring. > > Even Eleanora's skirt has pleats that are wider than they are deep, or > rather there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not > really something you can rigorously calculate ;) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?
Thanks to you both!! a. Not upper class, more middling. b. pleats are fine by me. c. have at least 4x waist. d. allowing for bum roll Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy’ing my buns back there tomorrow to pick them up. Too bad though— cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look! ==Marjorie On Mar 12, 2014, at 12:38 AM, Sybella wrote: > I have been thinking about this since your message came through a few hours > ago, trying to come up with a source to prove or disprove the use of > gathers in 1550 to 1600. (One of the things I adore about this list is that > folks site documentation to back up opinions.) However, I'm drawing a blank > too, since most of our existing examples show those of wealth, layered in > seriously significant amounts of yardage. > > What class of gown are you working on? > > It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the > yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, and > therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one only had > enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than the hip > measurement, 5 inches would not pleat evenly all the way around. To evenly > space the pleats and put them all the way around without major gaps between > them, the fabric must be 1.5 times the waist measurement, at minimum, > right? (And this doesn't even take into account bum rolls.) > > It's not like gathering wasn't a new skill in that time period...by that > era, people had been manipulating fabric with that technique for a long, > long time. > > If you're not aiming for upper class, I say go for it. > > If you are aiming for upper class, and are low on fabric, maybe a Spanish > surcoat would work for the amount of fabric you have...? > > Or are you just trying to get out of making pleats?? *wink* > > 'Bella > > On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Elizabeth Jones < > elizabethrjones2...@gmail.com> wrote: > >> I can't think of any Elizabethan images that show pleats as small as >> those in mid 19th century skirts (which is the context in which I have >> previously heard the term gauging) Cartridge pleats are one of the >> types of pleats used but judging by portraits I wouldn't put in pleats >> any smaller than 1 inch wide (i.e.I mean 1 inch as the section showing >> on top of the pleat not the total amount of fabric taken up by the >> pleat) for an Elizabethan skirt. >> Elizabeth >> >> On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Marjorie Wilser >> wrote: >>> Just curious. . . I don't have a good Elizabethan book to hand. >>> >>> In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt? Many thanks! I >> can do it. . . but little tucks are easier. :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] gauging for gathers?
Just curious. . . I don’t have a good Elizabethan book to hand. In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt? Many thanks! I can do it. . . but little tucks are easier. :) ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Wow. Kid fashion
Just had to share this. Talk about amazing from a kid! http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/02/26/4-year-old-paper-dresses-fashion-by-mayhem_n_4855545.html ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
It worked! Had to do a screen capture to get the text and the pic. I may not be that much help but it does seem like the directions are more clear than, say, in the 1890s. I have a bunch of French patterns from then and earlier and the so-called instructions are really only the barest of descriptions to accompany the pattern shapes you trace and cut out. ==Marjorie Wilser (thinking about trying to follow the directions and see where it leads!) On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Sybella wrote: > It took me a while to find it online somewhere. Here... > > http://club.season.ru/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=372206 > > I sure hope that works! > > > On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Janet Davis wrote: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Maybe the List strips attachments? It’s not there this time either. ==Marjorie Wilser (the3toad) @gmail.com On Feb 10, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Sybella wrote: > Hm...How strange! It is attached on the copy that came through the list and > back to me. I wonder why it is hiding from you. Grrr. > > Attaching again. :) > > Thanks so much! > ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern
Do you have a scan of the directions? ==Marjorie Wilser (fond of tricksy monkeys) On Feb 10, 2014, at 5:47 PM, Sybella wrote: > Normally, I can look at a pattern and have a clear idea of how flat pieces > fit together and follow a shape, what is cut on the fold, how many to cut, > etc. But with this one, I'm stumped. It's a tricky monkey puzzle! > > From the looks of the pattern text, you cut one of each piece but I can't > see how that makes a cap. I'm hoping what I don't understand of the text > will shed light on that. > > Can someone please translate the directions for me? Please? (Thanks to > studying Spanish, I can make out some of this but not enough. And since > it's an image, I can't just paste the text into an online translator...I > would guess that it will take a experienced sewer's eye to translate it > correctly.) > > Thank you! > 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
ROFL!!! Thanks for the giggle! :) == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:44 PM, Sybella wrote: > I'm tempted to post a picture on my FB page asking males to state their age > and a brief description of the top. LOL! > > > On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:14 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: > >> I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer. He'll be >> amused! >> >> == Marjorie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer. He'll be amused! == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:58 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: > Ask them. Most of us are the wrong gender and the wrong age. My ex-husband > used skimpy, particularly concerning his daughters' clothing. But then he's > my age. "Skimpy" might be generational. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
I wonder about the skimpy part. Do young guys use the term? Maybe might say "hot" if it were skimpy. Sheesh. Information overload :) Thanks, guys, for the fun discussion!! == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: > And then, again, a 25 y/o guy who just went shopping with his girlfriend just > might know what it was called, or at least what his girlfriend called it. Of > course, he might also go with "that skimpy top thing." I don't think any guy > I know (I'm 63) would ever call it a "blouse", but "skimpy top" would be > right up there as a good description. "Way skimpy top" would be even more > appropriate. > > Ginni ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Yep! Thanks a bunch for helping me clarify my thoughts. I guess I'm as out of touch as the fictional guy is == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 11:55 AM, Sybella wrote: > I doubt he'd be up on the latest fashion jargon unless he was into that. > He'd probably say blouse, top...maybe tank. But I can't imagine he'd ever > say camisole or cami. LOL! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Thanks! Thought so :) Ok. so I have another kind of problem entirely! == Marjorie On Jan 6, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Maggie Koenig wrote: > For what it's worth my husband has no idea what a cami even is. Brian > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: >> >> Thanks, everybody! >> >> It's for fiction. Guy normally clueless trying to describe woman who catches >> his eye. Would a guy know the name of said garment!? He's more likely to >> know what's in it than what it's called :) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Yes it is an age thing. And I can see your girls not wearing the tank style. Younger girls don't. I've been unwilling to wear one due to needing support. Straps made for support look lousy under thinner straps :) == Marjorie On Jan 5, 2014, at 11:05 PM, Sharon Zakhour wrote: > LOL. This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, ages 18 > and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a camisole and > it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a layer, but a layer > that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in hot weather, it is worn > alone. > > Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with cut-on shoulders. > > > On 1/5/14, 9:28 PM, Sybella wrote: >> Hm. In my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment >> regardless of modern vernacular. LOL! >> >> Tank tops can be delicate in style...I would say what the OP is describing >> would be using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One could say >> "tank top with spaghetti straps," maybe. >> >> Did you see the wiki page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote it >> also mentions "camisole." There are pictures at the bottom of the page, >> with all the variations that fall under "tank tops." >> >> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt >> >> >> >> >> On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour wrote: >> >>> cami or camisole >>> >>> >>> >>> On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: >>> >>>> Hi folks, >>>> >>>> I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about >>>> a popular item of modern summer clothing for women. >>>> >>>> What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of >>>> a "tank" as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones >>>> I think of as a "chemise," but that isn't the name I'm looking for here. >>>> >>>> So what's the modern name for it, please? :) >>>> >>> ___ >>> h-costume mailing list >>> h-costume@mail.indra.com >>> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume >>> >> ___ >> h-costume mailing list >> h-costume@mail.indra.com >> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume > > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Thanks, everybody!
It's for fiction. Guy normally clueless trying to describe woman who catches
his eye. Would a guy know the name of said garment!? He's more likely to know
what's in it than what it's called :)
== Marjorie Wilser
On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:36 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
> I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer
> wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit
> garments with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those from
> the
> '70s? And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it is also
> VERY long, so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants that
> still seem to be in vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO. Hard
> for
> us mature women to find pants that sit decently at the waist.
>
> Ann Wass
>
>
> In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> sfsh...@gmail.com writes:
>
> LOL. This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters,
> ages 18 and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a
> camisole and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a
> layer, but a layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in
> hot weather, it is worn alone.
>
> Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with cut-on shoulders.
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[h-cost] t-top? Tank?
Hi folks, I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about a popular item of modern summer clothing for women. What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of a "tank" as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones I think of as a "chemise," but that isn't the name I'm looking for here. So what's the modern name for it, please? :) == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
Yeek. Just looked at the price! How familiar are you with the company (not Amazon DG, the pattern produceer)? ==Marjorie (swooning from sticker shock) Sent from my amazing iPad On Oct 24, 2013, at 5:51 PM, Kathleen Norvell wrote: > > This was the pattern I was thinking of when I mentioned Aesthetic Dress -- > Artistic Reform is another term for it. I did not know if the pattern was > still available. It's a beautiful, authentic Victorian gown. > > Kathleen > > > -Original Message- > From: Wicked Frau > To: Historical Costume > Sent: Thu, Oct 24, 2013 10:08 am > Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians > > > Unboned corsets work fabulously. I use them for riding. Also, you might > want to look into this: > http://www.amazondrygoods.com/products/la-mode-bagatelle-victorian-artistic-reform-tea-gowns.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] measurement chart
here's one: http://www.amspecinc.com/fitting/index.html I did Google advanced search: "torso", and added in g*exact phrase* "fill in your measurements" But better result when I removed "torso" from the equation and used only the exact phrase: http://www.timeaftertimedesigns.com/Measurement%20Chart%20for%20Women.pdf There are other results, lots of them, but the 2nd is the best I found in a rather brief effort. ==Marjorie Sent from my amazing iPad On Sep 15, 2013, at 5:27 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote: > I am going to be making a Regency outfit for a friend who lives on the other > side of the country. Since there won't be any chance to fit it, I need to get > the most exhaustive set of measurements possible. > > Can any suggest a site that has a fill-in measurement chart that is really > detailed, that I can send her? Like, not just bust and waist measurement, but > bust and then under-bust, upper arm circumference, side-seam (underarm to > waist), shoulder to shoulder across the back, and so on. The sort of > measurements you'd need to construct a detailed garment with. I've tried > searching but apparently I'm not using the right search terms. I keep getting > charts with sizing on them, not blanks to be filled in. > > Thanks! > Julie > ___ > h-costume mailing list > h-costume@mail.indra.com > http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The White Queen
Kate, It's funny. . . you could say the same thing about modern productions of Victorian and Georgian fashions. Bareheaded women (and gloveless, too! the horror!) running around outside, neither properly coifed nor hatted. With so much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not the hair/hat styles!! == Marjorie Wilser (hoping very much that we get The White Queen over here. . . someday) =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Jul 24, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in "The White Queen"? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels currently running on the BBC.) I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that they have fallen into the same trap as the designers for "The Tudors" - the women show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women wear headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies more attractive to modern eyes. Kate Bunting Retired librarian & 17th century reenactor. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT hairdressing, Dineh
Chimene,
Great shots, and they explain a lot! I always wondered how they did
that :) But you made me hungry for fry bread (in the later pics). . .
I can't speak for Viking times, but sure enjoyed the pics.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Jul 24, 2013, at 1:35 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:
This is very OT for 12thC, but I've always wondered how it was
done... Navajo women's traditional "double-bun" hair-dress. I think
I'm going to ponder for a while if a similar technique might be of
assistance in achieving the Viking women's ritual knot hair-dress,
which, admittedly, is also OP for this list !? In any case, it is a
marvelous demonstration of how to create and hold a fairly complex
hair construction using non-modern tools.
anyway, a Native lady on another of my lists just posted about a
zillion photos from a recent large family reunion, among them a very
step-by-step demonstration.
Now, there are several clusters of hairdress photos scattered among
pics of other activities, starting about halfway down this page,
look for the little girl in the pink and yellow top, with white yarn
holding her hair
http://www.flickr.com/photos/neeta_lind/sets/72157634727656803/page2/
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Re: [h-cost] RE; Where to buy lucet?
So glad your post reminded me of Wm Booth-- I like their linen thread for luceting. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Jun 21, 2013, at 7:33 PM, Rebecca wrote: Thank you all! I finally remembered where I bought mine (William Booth, Draper) http://www.wmboothdraper.com/ I was looking for the non-handled type, and really liked the one I got from them a few years ago at Military History Fest. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] RE; Where to buy lucet?
Minor comment on lucets in general. I find the handled ones less easy
to carry around, because they don't fit into a needlework bag as well.
I think the main thing the handle is good for is spinning the lucet
around while working, but I've never missed having one and don't think
it a necessary feature.
Just a remark :)
PS if you're just learning-- be sure not to pull your threads too
tightly! Unless they are perfectly spun, they will cause you grief if
you work too tight (as I do!). It helps to learn how to pull up just
enough, but not too much. This takes a bit of practice with the
desired thread. I've learned from bitter, hand-numbing experience not
to lucet so tightly.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Jun 18, 2013, at 11:30 AM, Mary LaVenture wrote:
Hedgehog Handworks have beautiful hand made lucets
www.hedgehoghandworks.com
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/tools_braiding.php
Mary LaVenture
Costume Director
Pageant of the Masters
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Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?
For fruit stains, like that of the raspberry, I find spray-"and" wash
the best thing. It actually fades the stain before it hits the washing
machine. Berry stains will indeed turn a nasty shade of gray if washed
in ordinary soap without pre-treatment.
Don't know about your random stains. Might they have been in the cloth
as produced?
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:27 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:
We're in the process of sorting, washing-musty-out, and re-packing
the fabric stash and have discovered about 5 pieces of mostly-white,
mostly-linen that has a FEW, random pink and/or blue-y/black-y
spots. We've only really noticed this tonite. Doesn't seem to be
occuring on the white cottons (I think).
I'm planning to pre-treat with Clorox2, and then cold-launder with
Clorox2. Have just had real good luck with that with a cotton bra
that got a raspberry down it all day 8-) which stain started
pinkish, and then turned sort of blackberry dark blue/black as I
tried to wash it out.
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Re: [h-cost] Sewing Machines
Gosh. I'd just be happy to find a Pfaff _dealer_ near me. :) I
dearly love my old 7550, would love to have a 7570, and I treasure my
Singer 221.
Somehow, even though I own two treadle machines, I find treadling them
difficult. Odd, really, because I have two treadle printing presses
that I have no problem at all treadling!
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Apr 2, 2013, at 2:02 PM, Simone Bryan wrote:
My Pfaff 7570 while
outdated could sew 8 think rolls of canvas and then smiled at me!
I am pondering how I can get the new Pfaff that is all PURPLE!!
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Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber
Polyester. Ick. But it's grown up in the world since the bulletproof
variety, and SOME things in poly are actually decent feeling.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:29 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and
I have to say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently
set.
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?
Finally finished hemming a neck kerchief for my colonial. That's one
long hem, but I insisted on doing a hand hem.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:07 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:
Two Regency era tailcoats--one a linen check, for a June event in
Virginia, and one navy blue wool, just because every man needs one
in his wardrobe.
Want to get started on a red velvet reticule for a reenactment in
May. Then to finish the accessories for my red and yellow gown--
finish the belt, decorate a bonnet with the ribbon I bought in
England, and make a neck handkerchief--I actually do not own a plain
white one and have decided I need one.
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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
And here I thought this list was for *costumers* and not consumers and destroyers. == Marjorie Wilser On Mar 30, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Lavolta Press wrote: But apparently you don't even collect antique textiles yourself. You are certainly welcome to do so, but are in no position to dictate to others regarding it. > Rather than taking that dress in or out, why not check out the seam lines and see if you can recreate a pattern from it? Because I don't want to. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)
Dear Isabella, Likewise. I am sure. Brava! for saying so out loud. == Marjorie Wilser On Mar 29, 2013, at 1:25 PM, . . wrote: I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it! Would you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell off the pieces and remake it into a modern home? Of course not! Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part of our cultural heritage. It's sad that we do not have similar laws to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being described here. I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic? You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40 if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales. There is no reason whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to wear. -Isabella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bifurcated garments
I agree, Maggie, if my conservative & proper ancestors wore'em so
early. . .
Perhaps the shocking aspect we hear so much about in fashion history
texts was when *fashionable* women wore them! Perhaps little worn by
the anonymous classes was considered shocking: only in the upper and
wanna-be classes.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
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"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Mar 22, 2013, at 1:37 AM, Maggie Koenig wrote:
I'm starting to wonder if our ancestors found the idea of women in
pants as shocking as we think they did. I keep finding examples of
women wearing them in the 19th century. The "bloomer" costume as
reform dress, the bathing costumes, women in camping and hiking
situations, women on the westward trek, female mine workers in Wales
and other parts of Europe, utopian societies, fishwives in England
and female acrobatic performers. I have a feeling the more people
dig the more we will find out that there were just certain
situations where no one found it out of place to see a woman in pants.
I will grant you that in none of these cases are the women putting
on a pair of men's pants. They are wearing pants with a unique style
and construction.
Maggie Koenig
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 21, 2013, at 11:09 PM, Marjorie Wilser
wrote:
I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great
grandmother and her daughters wore bifurcated garments on the
Oregon Trail-- in 1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer was named as
their "creator." One of the older daughters wrote about their
experience and how the garments made walking the trail much easier
than it would have been in skirts. The stuff of family legend.
I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced
her to make a radical fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and
her husband had floated down the Allegheny on a raft; she mentions
having to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind,
and how her skirts "switched" between her ankles, making walking
almost impossible.
G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian
missionary- I was amazed that such a character would make use of
what was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps she thought
nobody she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had
two wagons and did not join a "train."
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[h-cost] bifurcated garments
I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great grandmother and her daughters wore bifurcated garments on the Oregon Trail-- in 1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer was named as their "creator." One of the older daughters wrote about their experience and how the garments made walking the trail much easier than it would have been in skirts. The stuff of family legend. I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced her to make a radical fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and her husband had floated down the Allegheny on a raft; she mentions having to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind, and how her skirts "switched" between her ankles, making walking almost impossible. G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian missionary- I was amazed that such a character would make use of what was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps she thought nobody she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had two wagons and did not join a "train." == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit
Thanks, Kim! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Mar 14, 2013, at 3:52 PM, Kim Baird wrote: Here is the correctly spelled URL: http://www.schaefferarts.com/embellishments/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit
Astrida,
The link didn't work for me, and I'm sure it should have. Odd.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Mar 14, 2013, at 11:02 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:
Hi everyone--
The Victorian embellishments book is finally well on its way through
the design process, and I have a date (end of April) for it to get
to the printer. I'm expecting copies in hand by mid-June.
Pre-orders (and many more images of the exhibition) are now at www.schaeffferarts.com/embellishments
. All pre-orders go toward printing costs! I'll also be posting a
Kickstarter, hopefully tomorrow, with the same goal: raising
printing money.
If you pre-order from my site, it will be $30 plus shipping until
mid-May; if you go through Kickstarter there will be many options
with pledges of $50 or more including a book as well as other goodies.
Thanks for all the interest!
Astrida Schaeffer
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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?
To me, Seton's headgear appears to be a somewhat wilted version of the mob cap, not stiffened like a bonnet, or really much shaped like one. Not a poke bonnet because it doesn't hide her face. == Marjorie On Feb 27, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Monica Spence wrote: I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University). It is run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the Romantic and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that it may be an early version of the style. Monica Spence ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant
I have shoe fitting issues, and called them before ordering. I
described my issues, and they suggested that for me, a half-size up
would be the best. I spent about 3 weeks wearing them half-days and
then full days before their first event, but they were comfortable
right away.
The only reason I spent so long getting used to them is that they were
colonial, and I usually don't wear heels. So it was more getting my
feet used to the concept than "breaking in" a shoe.
They are nice to work with, too.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
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"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Feb 2, 2013, at 2:44 PM, llwa...@juno.com wrote:
I'm getting ready for the Costume Con historical masquerade, and it
looks like a shoe style from Fugawee (http://www.fugawee.com/
index.htm) will be very close to what I need. However, I don't know
anyone locally who's dealt with them. What are their shoes like?
Do sizes run small/large, or pretty close to standard commercial
sizes? (The shoes I'm looking at are straight-last, if it
matters.) Any problems with orders?
Leah
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[h-cost] Another 19th c wowie
This time, it's a book. And what a book.
Garvarni's Women In Lace <http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/http/wwwbooktrystcom/~3/ZnI2WzWN5Iw/garvarnis-women-in-lace.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email
>
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
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[h-cost] University of NH exhibit
The nice rotating costume just posted (sorry, I nuked the original
email), I found out, is the only thing currently available.
I clicked on the weblink and got a nice answer from the guest curator.
The book's purported publisher reneged, so they're shopping for
another publisher. Book is not out yet, but she's adding names to a
list for people interested.
I think it will be worth the wait.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
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Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit
Nice eye candy!
Went to the publisher's website. It's all about digital publication
through them. No info on how to buy an actual book. Baffling.
== Marjorie Wilser (wrong side of the continent)
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Jan 28, 2013, at 7:51 AM, Anne Murphy wrote:
The University of New Hampshire has an exhibit - Embellishments:
Constructing Victorian Detail
http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/index.htm
The picture on the page *rotates*, so you can see every detail of this
incredible, asymetrical gown...
Anne
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Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen in Toronto April 19-21 (Canada)
If anybody wants to understand printing of the era better, let me know. I volunteer in 2 printing museums and have presses scattered liberally about my premesis (print shop, garage, living room). == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:16 AM, Christine wrote: I'm not involved in this, just got the e-mail about it, but thought it might be of interest to some of you. The website http://danceweavers.ca/janeausten.html has a link partway down called A Weekend with Jane Austen which is a pdf - didn't want to use that directly in case the list might bounce it. Christine - The theme for April 19-21st overall will be Love and Technology, so many of the planned activities will connect to that theme in some way. Many elements of the progamme are already in place, but more will be added soon. A few highlights: Print technology in the time of Austen (Mackenzie House Museum Print Shop) Print: the dawning of celebrity culture and the popular press "Beyond Jack Tar and Polly Portsmouth: Relationships at Sea" by naval historian Victor Suthren, organizer of last year's Sailors on the Lakes 1812 bicentennial launch Lecture on Jane Austen by Professor Robert Morrison, back by popular demand Millinery and the art of flirting Etiquette, class, and the schooling of the body in Regency England Marriage and the courtesans - a tangled web Regency Fashion Show by Charlene Roberts Georgian Food & Historical Sites & Book Table and much more! Keep tuned for regular updates. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1000th Post On All The Pretty Dresses
Hi there Isabella,
What a great idea-- those are indeed ephemeral and will disappear
into-- buyers wearing them, possibly . So you are recording
the doomed before they go away forever. One can only hope the buyers
might be responsible collectors rather than consumer/wearers.
I will confess to disappointment when I clicked on one of the earlier
images to find Pinterest expects me to join it to see them. I'm so
tired of joining sites and logging in with "secure" passwords I could
scream, so I sadly did not join and get to see the lovelies up close.
I notice you let the sellers speak for themselves. Might you be adding
comments later on? Some sellers of these kinds of things are (to put
it kindly) rather ignorant of antique sewing techniques and styles ;)
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Jan 9, 2013, at 7:23 AM, . . wrote:
Hello All!
I know some of you know of my blog but I'm sure there are some that
don't. I've been "collecting" images from auction sites like ebay
where vintage and antique clothing pop up but disappear after a
couple of months. I wanted to keep a record of the everyday
clothing. I've just posted my 1000th post to the blog. This one is
of a lovely uncut men's Rococo waistcoat that was up on ebay
recently. http://extantgowns.blogspot.com/2013/01/for-my-1000th-post-i-present.html
Feel free to take a look. I have the blog set up so it should be
easy to repost any items you happen to like to pinterest.
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Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?
Great looking blog, thanks! == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Jan 7, 2013, at 12:28 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I just found out about this: http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/ from a friend's post on Facebook. I'm going to try it--a fortnightly sewing challenge. So far, it is spurring me on to actually make some long-contemplated things, use stuff in my stash, and try a couple of new things, too. We'll see if I make it through the year, though. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Pierre & Sandy Pettinger To: Historical Costume Sent: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 7:48 pm Subject: [h-cost] Is anyone there? We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that busy? Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get this year? I got "Steampunk Fashion" by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe. Also a bunch of cooking gadgets. Sandy International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php "Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed." Achemdro'hm "The Illusion of Historical Fact" -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?
Alas. Got zero, unless you count a gift certificate at a quilting store. Not bad-- but I went, and found fabric for everybody but me :) So the gift part will wait til I find something for _me_. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Jan 4, 2013, at 9:16 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote: We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that busy? Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get this year? I got "Steampunk Fashion" by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe. Also a bunch of cooking gadgets. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Butterick 5832
Thoughts: not as early as 1837, because earlier sleeve fullness fell to the elbow and only later (42-3) disappeared; wider bertha looks better to me, but my reading suggests somewhere in between for depth. Note collection below shows an asymmetric bertha in one view. Not quite as asymmetric as the pattern, but still. Good collection of images here http://www.darvillsrareprints.com/Ladies%20Fashions%201840.htm == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= http://3toad.blogspot.com/ "Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW On Dec 16, 2012, at 8:58 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote: New-ish pattern from Butterick, day dress 1837-1840 (mislabeled in the pattern book as "Civil War"). http://butterick.mccall.com/b5832-products-27980.php?page_id=147 Everything looks spot on to me, except for the oddly asymmetrical bodice. That would have to be changed, but I can't decide if the pleated bertha should be the wide right side or the narrow left side. Any thoughts or comments? Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A hoopskirt for your entertainment
Hi Laura,
Period what? Plastic box included?
I agree- pretty cool, but I'm highly doubtful as it isn't really full
enough for the period the seller pretends to represent.
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Dec 12, 2012, at 12:11 PM, Laura Rubin wrote:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Hoop-Skirt-/230894469819
This was posted recently in a group I'm in by someone who's pretty
convinced that it's period. Plastic through and through but still
entertaining! I love the collapsing struts and the hatbox you can
store it
in.
-Laura
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?
Any chance of a link to the original? There's an iPad app I want to
explore. . . ;) This link goes to a photo, not a page (the link which
shows on the photo isn't clickable).
== Marjorie Wilser
=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
"Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement." --MW
On Dec 3, 2012, at 3:55 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote:
Thanks! I think I found the statue you're describing:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg
You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes
might have been used by Chinese peasants. This may be irrelevant,
but I read that European peasants' clothing was actually quite
colorful, and that they frequently re-dyed them as the natural
colors tended to fade.
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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods
Good to hear it, thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 19, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Pierre & Sandy Pettinger wrote: They're bck! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Thanks, Wanda! I was lucky in that the outfit matches itself: scarf, tunic & skirt, which is amazing since it is long enough for me, and I am tall. I have a choli cut out to go with lovely sari that came unaccompanied, but have not made it. I took the pattern from a thrift store find which (again, amazingly) fit my actual bust, even though it was worn out and barely usable when found. I found my first sari in the "curtain" department of the thrift store. They soon learned better! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:30 PM, Wanda Pease wrote: I tend to find these at my local Thrift stores too. Frequently the pants have gotten separated from the rest of the outfit (found one pair in pajamas!). Sometimes they never show, but the tunic is long and full enough that I wear it as a dress and scarf anyway. Since I no longer have to conform, i. e. I can be excentric, I can wear it to work and get compliments from the young folk. I'd say you have parts.of a Salwar/Kameze outfit. You could make pants for it. The pants don't always match in color says my friend from Pakistan. Wanda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Woweee! :) Thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 1, 2012, at 10:03 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: Hmm. This place calls them "long choli" lehenga: http://www.cbazaar.com/readymade-lehenga/long_choli_lehenga-specialty/c-sb.html - Original Message - From: "Marjorie Wilser" To: "Historical Costume" Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:15:43 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is. Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The "Punjabi pantsuit" is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
And did you look under the jewelry tab?? whoa! :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 1, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Marion McNealy wrote: And here are some other ones, http://www.utsavfashion.com/lehenga ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Teena, That makes entire sense to me. The SF Bay area is rife with various ethnicities. Many thanks for digging around in my behalf! I haven't been home since this morning and getting home to this news is really cool! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Nov 1, 2012, at 9:40 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote: I found something. Someone on a forum or something like that was asking about a Kameez Lengha (sometimes spelled lahenga) which is the tunic with the skirt. I guess Lengha means skirt. Anyway, they were saying that this was the Pakistani style as opposed to the lengha choli which is more of an Indian style. So maybe your outfit is Pakastani? Teena ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
Lauren, Thanks for the link!! Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic* and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli. I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :) ==Marjorie Wilser On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote: It's a lehenga choli. http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/ The "Punjabi pantsuit" is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli is often used for bridal wear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.
In the interest of historical costume, modern version: I have a great thrift store outfit I purchased some years ago in the South Bay (San Jose) area. It looks like a typical woman's "Punjabi suit" consisting of tunic, shawl, and pants-- except there are no pants. There is a long, even on me (5'10) flowing skirt. It's obviously dressy attire. There is gold (?) bullion embroidery on the front of the tunic, and tiny gold seed beads stitched all over the skirt and shawl (wider than the typical Paloo of a sari). Fabric is an abstract print in warm brown and golden tones on a lightweight silk. Lined throughout. It was a very lucky find for me because I am tall and had only to steal fabric from a seam to add a bust room gusset under the arms. Anybody care to hazard a guess as to this outfit's origins? I'm definitely voting for the Punjab because of the tunic, and thinking perhaps it might be some very formal outfit due to the heavy embroidery. I don't think this list takes attachments, but I do have a pic to post. . . somewhere, or send to whomever is interested. Thanks! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Umm. . . please say something historical?
Hi guys, Technology is wonderful. . . and for theatre costuming I'm sure it's a timesaver. But I'm laboring under the illusion that this is a historical costuming list, and wearying of machine embroidery (begging all your pardon. . . 'tis true). Please somebody, talk historical costume? ==Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT OP greasy-strings hairdressing???
I know. . . they will hate their yearbooks, that's for sure :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Oct 9, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Data-Samtak Susan wrote: On Oct 9, 12, at 3:12 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: heavy teenage girls I see wearing skintight hip hugging skirts, bare belly rolls over the top of them, and too-short tops. Oh but they are "in style" And don't make any negative comments because you will "ruin their self esteem". Knowledge gained from 30 years as a High School classroom teacher. The sights I saw Susan NJ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT OP greasy-strings hairdressing???
hmm. . . the new wet dreds? Honestly, I don't know. I wonder sometimes about the heavy teenage girls I see wearing skintight hip hugging skirts, bare belly rolls over the top of them, and too-short tops. Maybe it falls under "whatever was she thinking?" baffling, indeed. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Oct 8, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote: Watching news tonight, noticed, again, some woman on national TV, a national-level government consultant (!) -- her hair looks like a wet string mop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question for experienced sempsters
what Cin says ;) (she saved me the trubble of typing it all!) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Oct 8, 2012, at 3:16 PM, Cin wrote: Some things to think about for your debugging: Did you put in all the facings, linings & interfacings required? Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer on zorch? Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction? Is your model wearing period unmentionables and, if corsetting, is she corseting to the same dimensions each time? Got pictures inside & out? Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not particularly high quality. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Julie wrote: I have a mystery that I'd like some insight on. I've spoken in person to all the costumers I know and all are baffled. I made a dress for my daughter from decent quilting cottons from Joanne's. It has a tight fitted bodice with boning. The dress stretched so I took it in. It stretched some more so I put elastic in key areas. It stretched some more. Yesterday just for giggles I tried it on. It fits. I'm substantially larger than my daughter (maybe 2 sizes). What the heck? The dress will fit her immediately after washing & drying but begins stretching back out within an hour or so. Does anyone have any ideas? The fabric was washed & dried before I cut it out. This is very discouraging. I worked hard to make it fit her just right. Now it looks like I'm a lousy sempster. But at least I guess I get a dress out of it. Julie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hello again!
Shinrone, but stalled due to lack of opportunity! ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Oct 2, 2012, at 10:57 AM, Sybella wrote: Thank you for the responses, Marjorie and Kate! That's a bummer about Teddy. Maybe I'll have to dig out his address and send him a letter, the kind with postage. :) I've been researching and studying kirtles lately, the kind with grand assiette sleeves, like the Moy. What are you all working on? Sybella On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 5:48 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: Hello, Sybella, The list is still active, but not as busy as it used to be. Teddy left a few years ago because his employer objected to his using his work email to subscribe, and a lot of the other old names seem to have disappeared. Glad to see you back! Kate Bunting Librarian & 17th century reenactor Derby, UK _ The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this email was sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email. Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hello, again!
It's active :) I was here years ago, and only about a year ago came back. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 30, 2012, at 7:11 PM, Sybella wrote: Hi all!! I used to be a regular in this group, some years past. I've just resubscribed but I'm not sure if it's still active anymore. Hopefully, I will see some familiar faces. (Teddy, Drea, Margo...?) Sybella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Recent double post from Annefoote
Looks like a virus/spam/suspicious. Anne, if you're reading the list, please comment, or at least check your computer for issues. Hope it's ok. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1849 evening dress
Hi Lauren, A center front seam is optional. I have seen a few, but mostly the CFs are seamless, since the "princess" seamlines on either side of center front do the work of shaping. It's not atypical to have two almost parallel (curved, not straight) seams. the CF piece is usually very narrow at center front waist. There would never be NO sleeves under the berthe, if that's what you're asking :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 22, 2012, at 12:23 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: My questions for today are: Is a center seam down the bodice front typical for evening dresses in 1849? Does it introduce some bias- give that is essential to the smooth shape? And: Would there be short sleeves on the bodice under the berthe? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian quilled fabric trim
Certifiable, Lauren. Certifiable. :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 20, 2012, at 10:21 PM, Lauren Walker wrote (in part): Hi, Just wanted to mention that I'm now trying to do a version of Victorian quilled fabric trim on a 1/12 scale evening dress. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hair and Reenacting
Sharon, You've already gotten some good advice on the subject. In case you decide to go with a wig, fall, or other concoction, I'll add a wee bit here: The proper and fitting answer to the question "Is that your own hair?" is "Yes, of course." It's yours. You bought and paid for it, didn't you? :) If you prefer not to use one, never fear: you've been ill, and your hair was shorn to prevent its robbing you of your strength to recover (a common practice). ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 12, 2012, at 8:56 PM, Sharon Phillips wrote: I would like some ideas on hair pieces and wigs as I now have short hair again and I have no real idea myself. My hair is maybe a centimetre or two long at the back and for part of the sides and, about 7 cm or 8 cm long on the top part. I also have dark red henna in it so all in all my hair looks modern. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown
thought so! :) ==Marjorie Wilser (pray pardon my smuggitude, but it's my first right answer today) On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:39 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote (in part): Thank you, everyone. I found this _description_ of the gown: Her Inaugural Ball gown was typically American in fabric and design. The heavy silver-gray silk and brocade was woven >especially for her. Four front panels have an insertion of apricot satin veiled with lace. The collar and trimmings are of >silver and gold band fringe. Which calls the apricot satin parts "insertion" -- reinforcing the idea that they're between, not under, the brocade. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown
My take is that the panels are between the brocade panels. But that's just from observing the pics, which are disappointingly small. Floating brocade panels over pleats seem out of place in that era of major construction/engineering in fashion. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 6, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Lauren Walker wrote (in part): Hi, Has anyone here seen Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown in person or close up? (here's a measly picture of it) http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object.cfm?key=35&objkey=47 (here's an article about restoring it with a slightly different angle) http://americanhistory.si.edu/news/factsheet.cfm?key=30&newskey=595 I am trying to figure out if the underskirt is pleated beneath the brocade panels, or if it is only pleated between them. Also if the back panel (supporting the bustle) is stitched to the brocade panels on each side or not. The style is not unique to Mrs. Harrison -- there's a fashion plate from June of 1889 showing a gown that's got the same kind of brocade panels and intervening pleats (though no bustle, and a sleeveless bodice). So any knowledge about the style in general would be helpful, too. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
Fran, The ruffler foot is great; it can make series of tucks so quickly. I was astounded by the price Bernina asks for it (considering it was invented over 100 years ago) but it's an essential tool for costuming. Imagine how happy your petticoats will be. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 4, 2012, at 1:49 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: I asked a local store to order the Bernina 1008--they only had one and they just sold it. It will arrive in about a week. I am thinking of getting the ruffler foot in addition to the basic set of feet, so I can make Victorian trimmings faster. Anyone have anything else to recommend where a special foot is really useful, in terms of historic costuming? I have never been a foot collector. I am open to the idea, but many of the Bernina feet basically seem designed to help you sew in more precise lines. Precise sewing is great but I'd rather do it without spending on lots of special feet. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1849 Bonnet (1/12 scale)
Charming! Tres elegant! I'll look forward to the whole story (& dress), after the gifting. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 3, 2012, at 4:17 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, Thank you for all your help and advice on my first straw hat. I'm still hoping to surprise someone with the dressed doll, so I won't post the whole outfit until the project is finished, but I'm too excited about finishing the hat not to show it to you. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.516383471710247.130900.10157974475&type=1&l=00cec87117 Of course there's lots I have learned in making this hat and the next one will be better. I"m trying to work up the courage to try to reduce the fray-check stain on the bow, I wish I had hidden my stitches in the lining. Thing I'm still having the most trouble with is exaggerating details either because I can't make them small enough or because I want them to be apparent. The topline of the hat should have been straighter, the brim is too big, etc. But I'm still pleased with it for a first try! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Techshop & quilting, etc
And I could only dream they'd ever bother with Santa Barbara. . . it's too small. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 3, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Cin wrote: You're right, that's pretty much the charm of the place, that & it's a clubhouse for powertool users. I can be found at San Jose & Menlo Park Techshops. They're planning on expanding countrywide, including Raleigh-Durham & Austin, I think. Look for one in/near Crystal City (Wash DC area) in Feb 2013. (FWIW, in the spirit of full disclosure, I do & have had a business relationship with them for 6 years.) --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
Nope, the vertical bobbin kind, all metal, with cams for special stitches (anything but straight). Probably predates yours by 5 - 10 years. Still sews, but don't challenge it with anything but "normal" fabric for the 50s. (cottons, wools, NO polys or stretch). ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 3, 2012, at 10:11 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Was it the drop in bobbin kind...terrible! What?I really loved was the ability to sew wool-geogette-denium,all grads of cotton, velveteen etc without throwing a hissyfit. The sales demo even added leather and a piece of Balsa wood! I purchased it about the time the invisable zipper was coming to use. The steel regular zipperfoot beat the accommodatorwith great ease. I came to really appreciate my all metal model after using one of my mother's new and Approved light weights with plastic gears!!!? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
I'm amazed. . . the Kenmore was my mother's machine which I learned to hate -- literally chewed up anything with a soft hand, and refused crossed seams completely. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 2, 2012, at 4:29 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote: Fran, I am still singing the wonders of a Kenmore 158: series. Replaced my Beloved of over 30 years with a Pfaff "Jeans and satin". The pfaff really has lived up to its hype and does not require a transition period between fibers...just like the Kenmore of the '70s. But for rugged costume mileage, it was always at MY beck and call. Picked up a free arm last month on e-Bay that never saw much sewing even though it was advertised as used. While searching, came across a number of them New and some with cases for about $200. My original one (1972) had key cams that I seldom used...but I love the button-holer, also with keys Great when you need to make dozens! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine
I would buy my same machine, actually: Pfaff 7550. Computerized, but does not interfere with my desires. Fits all of your specs. I bought it as a demo machine in. . .. well, probably 1994. It's a workhorse. I would not hesitate to buy a used one. The 7570 was its replacement model, but it was more highly computerized and nobody is selling any- that's how good they were. It's been tuned up maybe twice in 18 years. I can find parts, but haven't needed to. I bought the essential add-ons when it was new (tucker, for instance: it works with the differential feed). And I LOVE the build-in walking foot. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Sep 2, 2012, at 3:52 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: I do not want a serger, or an embroidery machine. I want a machine with the following features: * Metal body * Durability * Infrequent need for service * Not quirky * Really good straight stitch * Zigzag capability * Easy buttonholes * Ability to sew both light and heavy fabrics easily, including crossing seams * Free arm or narrow bed? so I can sew sleeves easily * Probably the ability to lower the feed dogs * Mechanical machine, except I'm confused about the term. Even the "mechanical" machines (new not vintage) clearly have some computerization * A machine that doesn't try to make my decisions for me! * Probably a new machine, since I don't want to inherit someone else's problems and want to be able to get parts easily * Good track records. I have bought two expensive machines (over time) that were supposedly good machines from reputable manufacturers, yet they turned out to be a chronic PITA I am considering the Bernina 1008, since as far as I can tell the 1015 is no longer made. But clearly other manufacturers are also making mechanical machines. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stockings for 1917
Vicki, You definitely want some upper-class stockings then. Get natural color, or match your shoes. An older woman might match the shoes. I remember my grandmother's stockings (she married in 1913), which were heavy, opaque and had seams. Of course, my memory is from the 50s. . . she hadn't changed her stocking style, or her shoes (black oxfords with 1-1/2 inch heels). She was a conservative dressing farm wife. Your lady might wear slightly less opaque hose, but I'm betting the shoes are the same. Little patterns of holes in the toes, right? lace ups, stack heels. Too bad you couldn't find the double strap kind. They are more flattering for your feet and would look more upper class. Of course, a suffragette who walks in parades probably would prefer the oxfords anyway ;) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Vicki Betts wrote: Thanks for everyone's input. I should have told you that I'll be a middle-aged woman, small town (15,000 population in hot Texas) but upper class and well-traveled, a suffragette who has campaigned in Austin and Washington, DC. The dress is really nice green lawn with a stylized cream and dark brown vertical ivy motif. The top of the dress is the Armistice blouse but the collar and cuffs are cut from a white linen table runner with drawn threads. I attached a mid-calf skirt and I'm using a self fabric belt with an oval mother of pearl(ish) pass through buckle about five inches top to bottom and maybe two inches side to side. I'm planning on a cream silk georgette broad brimmed hat, deep crown, with feathers. I tried to get some shoes with a double buttoned strap, but I'm settling for a pair of oxford type shoes, dark brown to almost black. Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Stockings for 1917
The handknits featured in the Columbia book are very coarse for a day dress, unless you're a farmer's wife. Even then, there would be some pressure to have store-bought hose, which were fairly well available by then. The Amish cotton stockings are fine for the 1860s, but. . . I'm not getting the vibe for the teens. Much depends on where you lived, what your social expectations were, and how fashionably you dressed in general. Since patterned hose were ordinarily available in the previous generation, a young woman in day dress in 1917 would probably not be seen in hand knit stockings unless they were all she could afford, or it was a bitterly cold winter. MHO of course. A definite on seams. They read right. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 27, 2012, at 6:21 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote: There were so many options by that time. Lots of machine-made stockings. Remember that seams on nylons were around through the 1950s. Shaped, seamed stockings would be nicer than machine-knit in the round. There is something written about that time about how to dress with taste, and I think it had some info about stockings. Also there are Amish cotton stockings that are fairly fine, if you want something opaque and unobtrusive. -Carol Something along these lines: http://archive.org/stream/columbiabookofya02schu#page/202/mode/1up from the Columbia Book of Yarns, 1916 edition. Ann in CT I'm outside my usual area of 19th century clothing. What kind of stockings would be worn with a 1917 lawn day dress? It falls about mid-calf, and will be worn with lace-up oxford type shoes. Thanks! Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions
Please do, Lauren! I'd forgotten it was 1/12. wow. AWE :) ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Aug 26, 2012, at 9:50 PM, Lauren Walker wrote: Hi, I have constructed the straw part of the 1849 hat, bound the raw edges, and applied the bavolet! 1/12-scale bavolet = mighty tricky. Now just the lining-ruffles and the lining and the bow and gimp trims. Whew! hats are elaborate. Thank you to everyone for your advice and picture links and everything. When it's done I'll post pictures. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] serger review?
I need to replace my serger and would welcome use/quality comments by >brand name<-- from people who have bought a new serger in the last year, please! Leaning toward Bernina "Imagine." I have not used a serger in 10 years and am looking forward to the technology improvements since then! I used to own a Pfaff, which I liked, but the thread tree broke and is unavailable for that model I don't serge on historicals, but I sew my mundanes and anything else that isn't nailed down. ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] sewing machines
Went with a friend to look at new sewing machines. We hit a Bernina store because we were in the hood. My brain boggled at the prices (21K for ALL the bellses & whistles). . . Is anybody else shopping and what are your parameters for a great sewing machine that won't break the bank? (I'm now interested in a serger, so I'll start a parallel thread). ==Marjorie Wilser (whose beloved Pfaff is working just fine, thank you!) @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
