on it at graduation.
I'm a professor, so I get to wear it once or twice a year. I don't have any
photos that I can post, unfortunately.
Melanie Schuessler
On Jul 24, 2011, at 3:03 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote:
Was'/t there someone on this list who made their own medieval academic gown
(in addition
the weather is warm. These days, they are all made
of hideous cloth, so I shall be envying you.
On 7/25/11 11:30 AM, Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com wrote:
On 7/25/2011 9:45 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
That wasn't me, but I did make my own robes. The modern master's robes are
based
I used cotton velveteen.
Melanie
On Jul 25, 2011, at 3:20 PM, Susan Farmer wrote:
On 7/25/2011 1:02 PM, Melanie Schuessler wrote:
Mine are lightweight wool lined with habotai silk, and they're usually quite
comfortable here in Michigan.
Melanie, what did you use for your velvet trim
closeups of some of them.
You can look at it online, and you can also download the whole thing as a PDF.
For free.
http://www.weissgallery.com/catalogue/weiss25years.htm
Enjoy!
Melanie Schuessler
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. There are some extant forehead cloths
if you're interested.
Cheers,
Melanie Schuessler
On May 23, 2011, at 4:58 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
May i ask about the coifs. The coifs seen in Arnolds books and manny other
places with blackwork are mostly as late as cirka 1600. How early did
Hi Bjarne,
That's really interesting! Can you send links to some of those images?
Melanie
On May 24, 2011, at 2:01 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
Thankyou Melanie,
The majority of danish portraits shows coifs mostly embroidered with pearls,
hats are seen, but rarely.
Bjarne
Fascinating! Thanks!
Melanie
On May 24, 2011, at 6:14 PM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
Dear Melanie,
Yes the link is here: http://www.livinghistory.dk/
Its Dorothy Jones who made this with her friend Camilla Dahl.
Its a little difficult to navigate there, but if you schroll down the list
, you may have some
difficulty creating a period effect, but the 18th-century aesthetic allows for
a somewhat curved profile, and the lifted cleavage is more like that created by
a modern push-up bra and less like the Elizabethan, so it should work well
enough.
Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
://www.durantextiles.com/newsletter/documents/news_3be_10.asp
Melanie Schuessler
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On Jan 6, 2010, at 4:01 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:
Melanie Schuessler wrote:
http://www.history.org/Foundation/journal/Holiday06/fashion_show/
fashionshow.html
Great photos! Why is the girl in her underwear wearing black
lipstick, though?
Not a clue--I didn't even notice! I was too busy
Apologies if this has been posted before, but I don't remember seeing
it here. This is a photo shoot of some of the interpreters from
Colonial Williamsburg:
http://www.history.org/Foundation/journal/Holiday06/fashion_show/
fashionshow.html
Enjoy,
Melanie Schuessler
Yes. I'd love to have them, but they're not Mac-compatible last I
heard.
Melanie Schuessler
On Nov 13, 2009, at 11:06 AM, landofoz wrote:
Are any of you familiar with CoPA vintage patterns? Apparently
it's a set of CDs and a subscription service on-line. It's supposed
to encompass
portraits.
Melanie Schuessler
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Yes, they are the same person. Katie retired from the job I now
hold, and her second husband is my colleague Gary Evans.
Melanie Schuessler
Eastern Michigan University
On Sep 7, 2009, at 4:10 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:
Laurie Taylor wrote:
Also, does anyone know if there's a connection
If she wants actual nylons, try here:
http://vickisnylons.com/Full_Fash/fullfash.htm
If she wants modern hose, check out Victoria's Secret. http://
tinyurl.com/mk9abr
Or she can search seamed hose on Google--I got lots of sites selling
them like this one
http://tinyurl.com/49br2b
Melanie
feeling shown in the portrait. Check out some
of the specialty shops that carry heirloom sewing fabrics for things
like christening gowns if you can't find something suitable at your
local general fabric store.
Melanie Schuessler
On Aug 13, 2009, at 10:26 AM, Laurie Taylor wrote:
De
they're charging, I'd rather go with something that
looks a little more accurate. Try the plain shoe at Revival:
http://revival.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPRODProdID=310
It's not as fancy, but it's a much better shape and costs $100 less,
too.
Melanie Schuessler
for me years
ago are still wonderful. She actually has email now as well as a
price list in $US (which she didn't when I ordered).
Melanie Schuessler
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ever seeing headwear of this type on a man in a 16th-century image).
Melanie Schuessler
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have the added height of
the crown of the hat that's clearly visible on Henri. Nor do they
have the profile of a puffed bit with something of a smaller
circumference atop it. It's not impossible--I just think it's
unlikely based on what I've seen so far.
Melanie Schuessler
Do you mean resources for research? Resources for finding
materials? Resources for purchasing finished headwear?
Melanie Schuessler
On Jul 5, 2009, at 7:14 PM, Susan Farmer wrote:
while we're talking about hats
I am decidedly milinnarily challenged. What are your favorite
there's not a single answer.
Melanie Schuessler
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century re-drawn with improvements
by Wilcox. Needless to say, it was several degrees of separation
from accuracy. Luckily that costume was long since taken apart and
made into something else!
Melanie Schuessler
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You're most welcome!
Melanie Schuessler
On Jun 29, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Julie wrote:
Thanks so much for the great discussion and lots of pics.
Julie
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and seen from
the back, see the lady in the red dress center front:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/Elizabeth42.jpg
When I reproduce this style, I use the cap construction:
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/brown1.jpg
It seems to work both with and without stiffening.
Melanie Schuessler
The first example of a French hood with the fall flipped over the top
was meant to be
http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizaclopton1.jpg
Melanie Schuessler
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the right ratio.
Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
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privately, as I can't find
them online.
Melanie Schuessler
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by Ashelford as being Mary
(?) and Elizabeth (?) Boleyn by Steven van der Meulen.
I found this one as well:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Claude_of_Valois1.jpg
Melanie Schuessler
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http
. You can of course alter the sleeve length to a certain
extent--especially if you're shortening--but it's a huge pain.
Melanie Schuessler
On Jun 19, 2009, at 2:18 PM, Kate Pinner wrote:
On a contemporary (or for that matter, vintage) man's suit, once
the tags
are off, how do you tell what
I agree with Karen. Though I think the general outlines of this
outfit are correct, it looks like an idealized genre painting.
Melanie Schuessler
On Jun 19, 2009, at 1:50 PM, seamst...@juno.com wrote:
I don't think it's necessarily a painting of a real woman. I think
it's a painting
. This is the method used in extant ruffs as described by Janet
Arnold, and in my experience you can get MUCH more fabric in than
when you do a machine-baste and pull the bobbin threads.
Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
On Jun 13, 2009, at 8:02 PM, Penny Ladnier wrote:
A first for me, I am making a ruff. I
with just jewels and ribbons
in your hair, or jewels and ribbons plus a sheer veil. Like these:
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/UnknownLady45.jpg (Italian)
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/ElizabethAustria.jpg (French)
http://www.flg.es/ficha.asp?ID=2726 (Spanish)
Melanie Schuessler
pinned so that the edge makes
small scallops over the top.
Melanie Schuessler
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, there is this one
piece of evidence for coif-wearing, but you might be better served
with a more formal type of headwear.
Melanie Schuessler
On May 27, 2009, at 11:11 AM, Susan Farmer wrote:
On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote:
Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like
(i.e., not white linen, and probably not linen at all) and are often
decorated.
Melanie Schuessler
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It might be cooler, but if you are concerned with historical
accuracy, be aware that this is a modern hybrid and not a historical
style. What about putting a veil over it, as Elizabeth did?
Melanie Schuessler
On May 27, 2009, at 4:37 PM, Sagittarius Uisce Beatha wrote:
I think a caul
french hood.
These are both definitely French hoods. The white crescent with gold
on either side and black behind (the black is the hood) are a dead
giveaway.
Melanie Schuessler
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http
The body of my corset is boned, but the tabs are not. The
farthingale goes over, and the points come through the tabs and the
waistband of the farthingale.
I agree that everyone's experience will be different! I've corsetted
enough people to see that firsthand.
Melanie
On May 22,
-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Ah--that can cause real problems. Boning the tabs will help in that
situation, but adding shoulder straps will help more.
I should clarify that I'm not against boned tabs. They're great.
But if you're
and back, I think they're more work
than they're worth.
Melanie Schuessler
On May 21, 2009, at 3:30 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
Hers didn't have shoulder straps.
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-
boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
of, as the
farthingale will just slide down if it's not tied to the corset. You
can see how mine works here:
http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/under.html
Best of luck,
Melanie Schuessler
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http
Yes, but this version of the corset doesn't have boning in the sides
and back--only down the front. On a slender figure, it's not really
a problem unless you've got bone ends digging into your waist. And I
doubt someone as slight as the client described will lace too tightly
(which can
On Apr 18, 2009, at 4:28 PM, Kate Pinner wrote:
Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for
PhDs, so I
made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere MFA).
Melanie Schuessler
Eastern Michigan University
I'm an MFA, too, but Yale figured that since
wear the soft cap too, but with a
black tassel.
Some British institutions use the Tudor round cap in velvet for PhDs,
so I made mine in plain black wool with no tassel (since I'm a mere
MFA).
Melanie Schuessler
Eastern Michigan University
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of glass.) So I would guess that these are either
pearl-headed pins, or that the lady was willing to pay to have it
stitched each time after it was set.
Melanie Schuessler
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and the ruff will hold its
shape. Instructions for the way I do mine can be found on my website
at http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html for those who wish
to try it.
Melanie Schuessler
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purposes.
Melanie Schuessler
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Thanks! This is very interesting, and more convincing than the later
version, though there are still some things that seem odd. And I
still don't think it's Mary I or Holbein.
Melanie Schuessler
On Mar 4, 2009, at 3:38 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:
My dear husband is loopy tonight, too
it
in a competition, it's probably better to cheat a little and be safe.
Melanie Schuessler
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and a pair of gloves (or my hands tucked into the
overskirt), I'm toasty for long periods down to around 40 degrees F.
Melanie Schuessler
On Mar 3, 2009, at 9:26 PM, Rebecca Schmitt wrote:
I'm curious why you decided to line with wool as well as use wool
for the
top fabric? Most of the extant
the decor at center front of the
forepart is meant to be. It doesn't look like any sort of trim or
embroidery or couching I've ever seen in the 16th. Other details are
just far enough off that this whole thing looks like a pastiche or a
misinterpreted redrawing to me.
Melanie Schuessler
luck,
Melanie Schuessler
On Jan 29, 2009, at 3:53 PM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:
Thanks for sharing your experience. Just for my imagination: what
bust-waist-hip reduction would you choose in this case? (Ho many cm
smaller?)
I usually make the bust about 2cm smaller than the measured bust
On Jan 14, 2009, at 1:31 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
I've dealt with them for silk dupioni and taffeta. Their prices
are excellent, and so is their shipping and customer service.
What weight is the taffeta? Is it lining weight, or is it the
heavier sort?
Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
Interesting!
Thanks,
Melanie
On Jan 14, 2009, at 10:15 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
I used it interlined with broadcloth for a 1625 doublet. It's a
medium weight, but it's got a lot of body.
Carmen
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a tail on the back,
being descended from earlier hoods with liripipes, but the style is
so little-known that no one would notice the absence if you left it
off and just did a plain drape.
Melanie Schuessler
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On Dec 11, 2008, at 7:30 PM, Kimiko Small wrote:
The one image I have that showed the back having that hanging
liripipe end seemed to not look exactly like the Anne of Brittany
style, but a slightly larger, fuller hood, at least to my eye.
On Dec 10, 2008, at 4:39 PM, Robin Netherton wrote:
Otherwise I can't help with details on this period. This is a bit
past my period of specialty; I'll refer you to E House (who's
already gotten there with good info, I see), and Melanie Schuessler.
Replied privately.
:)
Melanie
, which captivated me on a very long car trip
a few years ago.)
I would add that, while brilliant, this book is pretty creepy and not
really suitable for young kids.
Looking forward to the movie!
Melanie Schuessler
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wrote, as he
is extremely unreliable.
Melanie Schuessler
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I second the recommendation for this place! They have real silver
metal trim (you can see some of the older pieces tarnishing) for
fairly reasonable prices and were very helpful to me.
Melanie Schuessler
On Nov 19, 2008, at 10:59 PM, Anne Moeller wrote:
I went to Passamaneria Valmar
in the right place.
Melanie Schuessler
(who spent four years draping for an opera company)
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Begin forwarded message:
From: Jocelyn Hinkle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I was browsing the Kunsthistoriches Museum collection and ran
across this
mechanical doll
http://www.khm.at/staticE/page1808.html
Mid 16th century
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it does not.
Melanie Schuessler
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And I.
Melanie Schuessler
On Jul 11, 2008, at 3:03 PM, A. Thurman wrote:
I'll be there...
Allison T.
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tell under that fan).
Melanie Schuessler
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. For those of us across the pond, it makes doing
business less convenient, but it is SO worth it.
Melanie Schuessler
On May 12, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Gilbert wrote:
I don't know whether this site will help or not, but yum:
http://www.sarahjuniper.co.uk/index.html. If anyone could make you
of a memorial brass.
I don't trust him an inch.
Melanie Schuessler
On May 12, 2008, at 9:28 PM, Genie Barrett wrote:
Having just received Norris in a gift basket this last weekend, I am
wondering how good his TEXT is. I've heard so many of you mention
this as one of the least desirable
On May 4, 2008, at 10:10 PM, Bella wrote:
I think it's an optical illusion. What at first looked to me like
an opening in the skirt, I now believe to be a blackworked
handkercheif/small towel pinned to the waist.
Yes, it's a muckinder.
Melanie Schuessler
a cognate with modern
frogging in a structural sense. But it does have some of the
aesthetic idea of decorative knots associated with fastenings. Can
you extrapolate from this isolated example to justify modern
frogging? Your call.
Melanie Schuessler
?
Melanie Schuessler
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Sorry--the object id should be part of the url and got chopped off in
the message. Try
http://tinyurl.com/5waqof
Melanie
On Apr 28, 2008, at 11:18 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
I can't get the second image to come up given the object id. Can
you tell us what painting it is? I looked
On Apr 28, 2008, at 11:51 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Got the link to work- Thanks.
When studying to make my model of these (Breughel) jackets, I
interpreted the sleeve to actually set into an arm hole. I see
that it could also be interpreted without. I just went on the
majority
in waiting). Whatever
it was, it doesn't seem to have been a general fashion.
Melanie Schuessler
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://del.icio.us/melisant which has many many other fun links.
Feel free to browse.
Melanie Schuessler
(also a contributor to Your Wardrobe Unlock'd)
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There is a short bad books list at Jessamyn's Closet. The lady is
very nice and I'm sure she would welcome suggestions for additions to
the list.
http://jessamynscloset.com/badbooks.html
I second the recommendation against anything by John Peacock.
Melanie Schuessler
On Feb 22, 2008
, mythological, or
classical people.
Melanie Schuessler
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Melanie Schuessler on 15th-c.
children's clothing.
Actually, it's 16th-century children's clothing--1530s to be
specific. I just don't want any 15th-century fans to get excited, go
find it, and then realize it's not what they thought.
Melanie
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like to point out that in the 16th century, highly decorated
bands along the hemline were actually fashionable. It's true that
only certain people (the wealthy) could afford them, but they're not
markers of imaginary clothing in the 16th like they might be in
earlier centuries.
Melanie
I think it's spelled caparison, for those who want to search it online.
Melanie
On Feb 17, 2008, at 3:38 AM, otsisto wrote:
Though I have heard it refered to as barding, I have been informed
by many a horse person that it is comparisons. Supposedly, barding
is in reference to horse armour
techniques, but
a great book with clear instructions for theatrical techniques is
_From the Neck Up_ by Denise Dreher. It's not too expensive, and
it's fairly easy to use.
Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
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of time obscures many
things and that fabric is often ignored during excavation, making it
difficult to determine where things were later on, but still...
Very interesting topic!
Melanie Schuessler
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Do you mean that the collarbone-location style referred to in the
article is more like a peplos? Were these large brooches worn with
those?
The people I mentioned that I've seen were wearing dresses with
straps and the brooches somewhere between the collarbone and the nipple.
Thanks,
got to Japan in the late 16th. If you're
interested in that, let me know and I'll try to figure out where the
info is.
Melanie Schuessler
On Jan 9, 2008, at 4:12 PM, Cynthia J Ley wrote:
Images, possible sources for patterns--anything would be very helpful!
Much thanks,
Arlys
If you can't squash it sufficiently by taking in the fabric cover,
take an electric knife to the foam itself and carve off the extra
bits. Be prepared for a huge mess, but electric knives are generally
the best thing for cutting foam rubber.
Good luck,
Melanie Schuessler
On Dec 21, 2007
://www.costumersguide.com/elizabeth2/gold2.jpg
which moves straight past queen and right into drag queen.
I see numerous other creatively-interpreted details in the stills,
but no one expected the costumes in this movie to be accurate to the
period.
Melanie Schuessler
will make it to the website, but don't hold
your breath. The only person who takes decent pictures of me lives
halfway across the country, so updates are infrequent!
Melanie Schuessler
http://www.faucet.net/costume
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fingers trying to hold onto them.
Melanie Schuessler
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Thanks, Bjarne!
That's nifty.
Melanie
On Nov 2, 2007, at 10:07 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:
Hi,
Although it is in danish, lots of the sites has illustrations.
The danish book Dagligtliv i Norden i det 16. århundrede by
Troels Lund, has ben published to the internet. It is several thick
It does!
Thanks so much,
Melanie
On Oct 23, 2007, at 11:19 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
I haven't found a full list but these are in it:
...
Hope this helps,
Beth
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Is there a table of contents somewhere online?
Thanks,
Melanie Schuessler
On Oct 23, 2007, at 3:53 PM, Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
I know that a few of you are interested in the NESAT (Northern
European Society for Archaeological Textiles) Volume 9 is now
available for order.
http
Begin forwarded message:
From: Jane Malcolm-Davies [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: October 22, 2007 3:26:33 PM GMT-04:00
To: Effigies2 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: COSTUMER'S INFO: Tudor costume and effigies database update
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I am pleased to announce the addition of new
at that time.
Melanie Schuessler
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and better information than you can get from
this book to make men's clothing from the 19th century.
Melanie Schuessler
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For finding books online, also try
http://used.addall.com/
http://www.addall.com/
http://www.bookfinder.com/
These are also meta-searches that trawl through lots of peoples'
inventories.
Melanie Schuessler
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a risk I'm happy to take, as these services make it so much
easier, in general, to find the OOP books I always seem to be seeking.
Melanie Schuessler
On Oct 7, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 10/7/2007 4:44:06 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
,
Melanie Schuessler
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)
Melanie Schuessler
On Sep 21, 2007, at 6:28 PM, Dawn wrote:
Alexandria Doyle wrote:
Is that an embroidered jacket or one of the knit ones? The Boston
MFA
seems to have several in their collection.
I'd love for this one you mention to have been an earlier version,
perhaps something Elizabeth
Eva,
You are correct! I didn't remember that one, but there it is. And a
pattern as well with some interesting notes on construction.
Good catch,
Melanie
On Sep 22, 2007, at 2:23 AM, Eva Andersson wrote:
However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an
embroidered
or similar, but
there is no evidence for this shape that I've found.
As Kimiko suggests, velvet may not work well in doll scale, so a nice
silk or silk-like fabric (like taffeta) might serve you better.
Melanie Schuessler
On Sep 21, 2007, at 3:27 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:
I am continuing
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