Precisely what happened with my 3 MTC mono-valves. All it takes is a pinhole.
Jon
On Apr 17, 2015, at 10:47 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
Coolant gets past the sealing and into the moving parts of the valve. This
causes the valve to get somewhat hydrolocked and not pulse
I appreciate the confidence in my talents. Now if y'all will
kickstartgofundme to buy a CNC milling machine I will get right to it.
I bought one of those replacement cartridges from Jabba for one of the
SDs for my daughter to replace but I don't know if she did it yet or not
-- I think I had
Why own a CNC ? Just build the program for the part and rent production
time. There are loads of small [relatively] shops that have excess
machinery capacity now because the economy is in the tank. Production
demand is down, but the machine sets there costing space and money..
I'm on several
I have seen some instructable-type things on making molds for rubber or
silicone bits, I would think with a CNC machine that it would not be too
hard to do it, and to bodge up some injection equipment.
--R
On 4/18/15 12:24 PM, G Mann wrote:
Why own a CNC ? Just build the program for the
I went through 3 chinese junk monovalves when I first got my 300D. Rusty
finally sent me a real MB part, and it’s worked perfectly for the past 3 years.
I also went through 2 chinese (junk) aux pumps at the same time. The motor
tends to separate from the pump spraying coolant all over your
had a different diameter to the cylindrical shaft such that it was a
very difficult fit and didn't work at all
The MTC I ended up with didn't fit either. I removed the
circlip from the ends of both and transferred the rubber/screen
part from the MTC to the bad one that came out of the
car. It
Forgot to mention:
Tom Hanson (thomas.han...@mbusa.com mailto:thomas.han...@mbusa.com) at the MB
Classic Center is a great resource. If you are a member of the MBCA, you get a
discount.
His number is: (949) 598-4842
On Apr 16, 2015, at 8:45 PM, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
Yep, MB parts only in this case. Bosch stopped making them so a new
supplier stepped in, with a higher price.
The Chinese ones are junk, as you discovered.
Jaime
On Thursday, April 16, 2015, G. M. Brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:
I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my
With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.
This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point.
I second that nomination ! .. hahaha..
Amazing how painless that was... for me..
On Fri, Apr 17, 2015 at 9:23 PM, Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a
I think the issue with the MTC (Chinese) parts are the rubber quality.
Coolant gets past the sealing and into the moving parts of the valve. This
causes the valve to get somewhat hydrolocked and not pulse open and closed
properly, resulting it too much or too little heat.
The failure of an
Jaime wrote:
I think the issue with the MTC (Chinese) parts are the rubber quality.
Unfortunately, that statement is applicable to ALL rubber parts made in China,
not just mono-valve inserts. Parts (and tools) manufactured in Taiwan are of a
much higher quality than those coming from mainland
With all the CNC machining capacity, it seems to me that someone,
somewhere, should be able to remake the valve to take O rings with a new
design and sell replacement parts that actually work.
This problem is a matter of when will it happen, not if it will
happen.. known design weak point.
I purchased a couple mono-valves from the PartsGeek for my '84 300D
'85 300TD a few weeks back and found them to be Chinese junk, as
the one where I opened the package had a different diameter to the
cylindrical shaft such that it was a very difficult fit and didn't
work at all so I sent 'em
y'know, i could use that money!
esh is super rich. he's got a place in brooksville. he won't miss it!
On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 10:02 PM, Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.comwrote:
Mike.
Enjoy.
Gary.
It was gratis/pro bono, just not that kind of bono.
You sexy beast!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
oddly, he wishes for you to send ME $1250USD. i don't get it myself but
that is what he wants
On Fri, Sep 13, 2013 at 9:32 PM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:
Thanks Fred! Pigtail arrived today and is exactly what I need. Please let
me how much money to send you and how you would like me
Mike.
Enjoy.
Gary.
It was gratis/pro bono, just not that kind of bono.
You sexy beast!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.
From: Mike Esh michael...@mac.com
To: Okie Benz mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 9:32 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Mono
Jim Cathey wrote:
No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat. PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between.
Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a dwell
meter?
Mitch.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
I believe a dwell meter would give you an average of the duty cycle, so you
would see as it increased or decreased.
Essentially, the signal is a square wave with the time being varied to control
the flow of coolant through the valve.
Dan
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 1, 2011, at 6:50 AM, Mitch
Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a
dwell meter?
Neither, I think. It's right at that in-between stage
where a regular meter can't really keep up, yet is too
slow for the typical (?) dwell meter. I found that a 12V
test lamp worked perfectly. Just watch it
On Dec 1, 2011 6:51 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
slow for the typical (?) dwell meter. I found that a 12V
test lamp worked perfectly. Just watch it blink on and off.
But a 'scope is so much more fun!
Alex
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For
Jim,
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get
the same readings I did with the multimeter. I did not get blinking lights at
any settings, solid on, solid off. I hooked up five different control boxes
and got the same results.
I am at a loss.
Mike
Michael
I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact cleaner.
Could they all be bad?
Michael E. Esh
On Nov 30, 2011, at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
Sounds like the control unit is not controlling. Might want to take it out
and see
for them all to
be broken the same...
-Curt
Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
From: Mike Esh michael...@me.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
Message-ID: 93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com
Content-Type
I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact
cleaner. Could they all be bad?
Absolutely. The units with the little translucent AUTO switch
are EXTREMELY prone to having cracked solder joints. As in: I've
had to fix EVERY one of them in our fleet. Yes, every one.
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and
still get the same readings I did with the multimeter. I did not get
blinking lights at
Taillight bulb is a bit heavy, a side-marker lamp would be
kinder and gentler.
any settings, solid on, solid off. I hooked up five
Here is good conversation about mono valve voltage. It cleared things up me
about reading voltage to the mono valve. Mine appears to be working correctly.
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:11 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the
...
-Curt
Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
From: Mike Esh michael...@me.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
Message-ID: 93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking for
crack in a solder joint?
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:09 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact
cleaner. Could they all be bad?
On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, Mike Esh michael...@me.com wrote:
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking
for crack in a solder joint?
Here is a pictorial on disassembly from Dan. I don't think it shows
specifically cracks, but it was pretty thorough, IIRC.
order new pbu if I find nothing new. Does Rusty carry these?
You got a big wallet? There's a reason that we all
either resolder them, or learn to do so. Hey, you've
got five to learn on...
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just
looking for crack in a solder joint?
Open one up, and examine (in particular) the joints to
the side boards, which are (in contravention to all known
good soldering practice) also the mechanical support of
the side boards. The
Yes, send me our address.
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 10:05 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:
On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, Mike Esh michael...@me.com wrote:
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking
for crack in a solder joint?
Here is
Sounds like the control unit is not controlling. Might want to take it
out and see if anything on it (like maybe the wheel contacts) is
corroded, broken, fried, worn out, whatever.
--R
On 11/30/11 12:24 PM, Mike Esh wrote:
I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D. I either
If you remove the temperature wheel (quite easy) you can inspect for breaks
in the circuitry. Then swap it with a temperature reel from another ACC
module. That worked for me.
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
Sounds like the control
Mike Esh wrote:
Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
12 volts when system is off.
The monovalve is not controlled with a steady voltage. 12V is
switched on and off rapidly, called pulse width modulation.
That is, the more heat requested, the longer the OFF pulse and
the
...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat. PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between. If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
(Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback
Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Rusty has the mono valve insert...I just did mine.
Is this insert also known as the Mono Valve Repair Kit ??
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/R302315174BOS.JPG
Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230
Engler
1985 300TD Turbo 295K
-Original Message-
From: Allan Streib [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 10:29 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve repair...
Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Rusty has the mono valve
yep
Allan Streib wrote:
Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Rusty has the mono valve insert...I just did mine.
Is this insert also known as the Mono Valve Repair Kit ??
http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/R302315174BOS.JPG
Allan
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D
I bought the LEDs to wire in and see what's going on. They are still
sitting on the table in the Radio Shack blister packs. I haven't dug
into the wiring diagram yet to see which wire to connect them to.
However, the ACC is now working just fine! We're preparing for a trip
to Mexico next week, so
All computer controled auto accessories are equipped with a thought
process. The ACC saw you comming out of the store, decided the jig was
up, and will play nice for a while. Unfortunately, they can also read
maps and calculate distance. So if you dont take the LED's with you,
about the time
No doubt George found the copper that the Germans use was too soft to
be used with anything but his special softer brushes, eh?
For those missing the sarcasm, it is there in spades.
I got a set of Russ's brushes in the special order, and have found them
to be outstanding. So his source, Schink
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Saturday, July 02, 2005 8:02 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
you dont even want to get me started on what i think about george murphy.
Russ Maki wrote:
Barry
Thanks to all -
This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came. This was followed
by the center vents opening about the time i was going to turn
OK Don wrote:
Thanks to all -
This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came.
Temp sensor tube no longer connects the temp sensor to the cabin
commutator wear. That's what makes his special.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Russ Maki
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2005 8:55 AM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Then you have to make
OK Don wrote:
Thanks to all -
This morning the outside temp was around 70F. The fan started about as
one would expect, within a half a block of the house. Cool air came
first, then the center vents shut, and hot air came. This was followed
by the center vents opening about the time i was going
Barry Stark wrote:
Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used were of a much softer composition than the ones we
make here. Evidently the local brushes being
you dont even want to get me started on what i think about george murphy.
Russ Maki wrote:
Barry Stark wrote:
Russ -
According to George Murphy the issue was not just to get the brushes
to fit,
it was the hardness of the brush compound. George found that the brushes
that the Germans used
The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
How do you get the fan motor
OK Don wrote:
The defrost mode does not force the fan on (this one, now - it should
though). If it's not ready to turn on, nothing I do has any effect.
Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've not had the full heat
experience since that one time (knocking on wood). Relays? Brushes?
How do you get
Don,
I think you said you had already resoldered the side connectors on the
push button control board. However, I have already misinterpreted this
thread once (c:..
I have removed the fan in a 126 and multiple 123's. I remember it
being something along the line of 'pull off the knee bolster
Richard Hattaway wrote:
Then you have to make the decision about replacing the fan motor if
found bad, or putting new brushes in it. Our friend George Murphy has
the brushes, and I am SURE that if he has them there are multiple other
sources as well.. (c: New motors are expensive. So you may
OK Don wrote:
The ACC fired right up this morning (80+) - and worked all the way to
work. This evening, (98F), I could feel the compressor running, and
feel cool air coming from the appropriate vents, at 70 MPH with the
windows cracked, but the fan didn't come on for the first 10 miles or
so.
Don,
Don't rush to the conclusion that there is a problem. The fan system
is automatic, and will control the speed of the fan to meet the
requirements in the cabin. You say you didn't loose cooling at all, so
the sytem may well have been satisfied. The fan may have been coasting
on low till
Richard Hattaway wrote:
As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode.
Defrost also forces full heat, though, doesn't it?
I believe it does. But not positive. I think the high speed fan
setting will force it as well, but again, not positive. My old 300TD
does not have the benefit of that nice ACC system, so I can't test.
Reading Don's last post, however, he sure has a fan issue of some kind.
I misunderstood the
Yes it does.
On 6/30/05, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Richard Hattaway wrote:
As Marshall said, you can force the fan with the defrost mode.
Defrost also forces full heat, though, doesn't it?
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For
Don
The 2 times my monovavle went south, and both times were in summer, the heat
was unbearable. The first time it was the insert, 2nd was the solenoid. So
before you order the insert, check for continuity on the solenoid.
amf
Hank
- Original Message -
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
pull it out and see if the diaphram is torn
OK Don wrote:
The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to 85F, the nice cool
breeze from the climate control system suddenly turned very hot. I'm
guessing that this is the
From the quick and easy test desk:
Block the water line feeding the monovalve. I use two strips of wood
and a C clamp, pinching it closed. See if your cabin temp returns to
the pleasant cool you expect. If so, your monovalve or control system
is at fault. If not, you have to begin to look at
Idling or going at hiway speed?
Hank
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
You know, my SDL will blow 42-45 vent temp on 90+ degree days with 134
you talking about the push button unit or the control unit behind the
glove box?
David Johnson wrote:
--- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The A/C in my '87 300SDL has been wirking fine, even
at 100F today.
This eveining after the outside temp had dropped to
85F, the nice cool
breeze from
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve???
You know, my SDL will blow 42-45 vent temp on 90+ degree days with
134, Im amazed.
Loren Faeth wrote:
try turning the temp all the way cold while driving down the
highway. R134 ain't worth crap unless you are moving at highway
speeds. Mine will occasionally
65 matches
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