Re: [MBZ] IT'S ALIVE!!!
My congrats as well. FYI, I repaired a similar break in a front chin buy putting a block of wood behind the crack and screwing together with four wood screws, two on each side of the break. In your case, follow up with white appliance touch-up paint to hide the screw heads, and motor on... -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 6:13 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] IT'S ALIVE!!! On Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:04:55 -0700 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote: On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote: I got the 1994 E420 back together Congrats, Craig! I remember when you first started trying to RR that PS pump way back when. Must feel good to finally have it done. Yes, it does feel good. The car is up on jackstands in the street, but the garage is empty (and looks a little strange ... :-) ). I still have little stuff to do, like to figure out how the baffle plate and air hose for the left engine mount go back in, but yes, it's basically done. Then I can start changing the engine oil and filter and the transmission fluid and filter. And ... Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Car for resident counsel
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2010565280.html Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (STILL a project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Car for resident counsel
That is too funny. --R On 10/18/2010 7:48 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2010565280.html Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (STILL a project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down.Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] where the tach is attached to the transmission
Can someone direct me to where the tach is attached to the transmission on an '85 300TD? My left front and right rear windows are inoperative and I suspect the ice cube sized relay behind the instrument cluster but the instrument cluster won't move far enough to allow my hand to enter. TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Yeah, what he said. If you ever need to remove the shift lever, it has a little (capture? I think you call that arrangement) nut at the bottom you loosen then you can screw out the lever. To put it back, screw it down to where you want it, lined up properly, then tighten the nut to hold it tight. --R On 10/18/2010 9:04 AM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote: Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down.Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 94 S500 trade
I have not done a whole bunch to it, replaced the ETA on it, changed the oil, cleaned it up a bit. What still needs to be done is sort out the radio (has a blown speaker), replace a window regulator, replace a couple of vacuum door lock actuators, figure out why the check engine light and ASR light come on, needs tires, probably will need a little front end work. I think my main hangup with it is the seats. I need to find a set of seats for it, right now its got these cheap vinyl black and gray covers on them. On 10/17/2010 8:28 PM, Craig wrote: On Sun, 17 Oct 2010 19:18:51 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote: I have sort of wanted to try one but Im not coupe crazy like you. I suppose if it was a nice enough one I would be tempted. I have not got any details on it yet. I know I am getting tires of messing with this 500 though. I know that feeling! What have you done in your messing with it? Craig -- Present:'94 E420117 kmi '82 240D/3.0263 kmi Past: '86 190E/2.3 '72 220/8 '72 220D/8 '64 190Dc ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1136 / Virus Database: 422/3203 - Release Date: 10/17/10 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
It's a sedan. I have found receiver hitches for the wagons, e.g. http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1983_Mercedes-Benz_300TD.htm But apparently that won't work on the sedan as a different, fixed style hitch is shown that is basically just a steel plate bolted to the bottom of the trunk. Allan On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 07:25 -0400, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: If you have a wagon, here's a nice one available new, in Italy: http://www.ellebi.com/italiano/ganci/towbarfinder.asp?step=2des=ds=123 %20Tan=gancio=E Perhaps you can locate a breaker in Great Britain that will sell you a used tow bar? My only other idea would be a custom made hitch. Attached is a snip from the EPC rest of world version showing all the pieces included in the original MB kit, which gives you a starting point. This particular hitch would only work if your car had Euro bumpers, as on the U.S. version the bumper stuff takes up space required by the hitch inside the frame rails. -Max ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] where the tach is attached to the transmission
The tach does not attach to the transmission, but the speedo cable does. The speedo cable attaches at the rear of the tranny, drivers side. You do not need to remove it there to get the cluster out. I have never had a problem getting my hand back behind the cluster to unscrew the cable. You usually have to unplug the big round electrical cable first, that will let you turn it to the side a bit more to get your hand back there. On 10/18/2010 8:26 AM, glenn brown wrote: Can someone direct me to where the tach is attached to the transmission on an '85 300TD? My left front and right rear windows are inoperative and I suspect the ice cube sized relay behind the instrument cluster but the instrument cluster won't move far enough to allow my hand to enter. TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com - No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1136 / Virus Database: 422/3204 - Release Date: 10/18/10 -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] where the tach is attached to the transmission
glenn brown wrote: Can someone direct me to where the tach is attached to the transmission on an '85 300TD? My left front and right rear windows are inoperative and I suspect the ice cube sized relay behind the instrument cluster but the instrument cluster won't move far enough to allow my hand to enter. TIA. Take off the kick panel under the dash and unhook the speedo cable from below? Watch out for the oil line on the left side of the cluster too. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] IT'S ALIVE!!!
If the leak is not in the engine compartment, then the line from the tank to the filter/pump and from the filter pump to the hard line forward are most likely. It sounds like on some cars, the line between the filter and pump is also rubber. If the big hose is bad, I have lots leftover and I will make you a deal on however many inches you need. That, and finding where the gasoline leak underneath the car is is all I have to do to take it out on the road. I thought the leak was in the middle of the passenger compartment, but looked there this evening and saw nothing. Maybe it's near the back of the car. Craig -- Present:'94 E420117 kmi '82 240D/3.0263 kmi ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
On 10/18/2010 8:09 AM, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote: W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console? It is so well molded into the side of that console that you can't believe it is there!! Look for a little seam on top. Can sometimes pull it sideways with your fingernail! Think the bulb is about 1/2 inch long. Got mine at O'Reily after looking everywhere for years Good Luck! I was able to reach in by just removing the rubber trim around the top, after I found it the first time. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Car for resident counsel
And the fun dual Zeniths should keep 'im off the street to protect the rest of us. That is too funny. --R On 10/18/2010 7:48 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2010565280.html Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (STILL a project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Auf Wiedersehen 300D
Put my RIP '77 300D on CL for a Kalebesque price and it sold in 5 hours. Dude who bought it showed up in a '77 240D which he is keeping up quite nicely. He'l be back with a trailer today. I did get the requsite calls from the idiots who wanted to drive it home afterasking me if it had ice cold air. Time to stash that money away in the looking-for-the-220D fund or the something-made-in-1960 fund. Bob R One less MB today...booo to the hooo ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Removing the shift lever is a job best left to a professional, since there is a major downside of disabling the car) if I screw it up by either losing or breaking one of those vital small parts that allow one to shift the PRNDL. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:31 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Yeah, what he said. If you ever need to remove the shift lever, it has a little (capture? I think you call that arrangement) nut at the bottom you loosen then you can screw out the lever. To put it back, screw it down to where you want it, lined up properly, then tighten the nut to hold it tight. --R On 10/18/2010 9:04 AM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote: Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down.Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Jaime, One more question and I then I will shut up. After lifting the wood console cover I removed the three bolts holding down the PRNDL plate and lifted it up in search of the bulb, as there was none visible. Is this step necessary, or is the bulb holder externally mounted on the shifter housing? I don't recall seeing this. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote: Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down.Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Chris, I like your minimalist approach. Does the bulb cover pry off in the direction toward the front or rear of the car? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Chris N John ceand...@tctwest.net wrote: On 10/18/2010 8:09 AM, mercedes-requ...@okiebenz.com wrote: W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console? It is so well molded into the side of that console that you can't believe it is there!! Look for a little seam on top. Can sometimes pull it sideways with your fingernail! Think the bulb is about 1/2 inch long. Got mine at O'Reily after looking everywhere for years Good Luck! I was able to reach in by just removing the rubber trim around the top, after I found it the first time. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
Its externally mounted... you don't need to remove the bolts that hold down the shift gate. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 11:07 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Jaime, One more question and I then I will shut up. After lifting the wood console cover I removed the three bolts holding down the PRNDL plate and lifted it up in search of the bulb, as there was none visible. Is this step necessary, or is the bulb holder externally mounted on the shifter housing? I don't recall seeing this. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:04 AM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote: Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down. Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Auf Wiedersehen 300D
Bob Rentfro wrote: Time to stash that money away in the looking-for-the-220D fund or the something-made-in-1960 fund. http://saginaw.craigslist.org/ctd/1969718456.html http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1991157205.html But too far, unless you have the guts to fly out here and drive the good one home. Who needs reverse, anyway? If that motorhome in Portland were close enough to conveniently inspect, I would have loved to drive it home and call it a portable office. We've got decent $5000 motorhomes up here, but none as interesting as that one was. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Bad gasoline
A couple of weeks ago my daughter had trouble with her 107 SL stalling. Her last fuel was from a texaco station that was recently taken over by what may be iraqis (not native Americans). I told her to try putting a few gallons or premium in from the station across the street, that happens to be a Shell station. She just left the car sit for a week or so. Last night she reported she put in 3 gal of premium and filled the tank with unleaded regular.She said that the car is running just fine, the car ran rough until the new fuel got into the inj. system, then smoothed out. After driving it a few days, it is running normally. To repeat, the problem is no ethanol, it is people who purposefully blend ethanol and water into the fuel. This reduced the BTU/lb of the fuel. While the engine will run, however poorly, the practice is fraud and theft. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
I don't know why you would leave it to a pro, it is just a nut you loosen on the threaded end of the lever, then the lever screws out, nothing to lose (but something to loose). It goes into a rather substantial piece of metal at the bottom, you'll see it. --R On 10/18/2010 10:59 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote: Removing the shift lever is a job best left to a professional, since there is a major downside of disabling the car) if I screw it up by either losing or breaking one of those vital small parts that allow one to shift the PRNDL. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 9:31 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Yeah, what he said. If you ever need to remove the shift lever, it has a little (capture? I think you call that arrangement) nut at the bottom you loosen then you can screw out the lever. To put it back, screw it down to where you want it, lined up properly, then tighten the nut to hold it tight. --R On 10/18/2010 9:04 AM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote: Its not as hard as you think - Remove ash tray, and ash tray frame (2 screws). You'll have to disconnect the connector for the cig lighter that attaches to the frame. Just pry the frame out of the console, starting with the right side. Connector is on the left. - Lift up front edge of wood... slide the whole piece back a bit to clear the bin that holds the back part of the wood down.Then you can lift it up. This might take a little wiggling, as the wires, etc restrict movement. - Now reach under and disconnect windows, hazard sw, fader, etc. Remove wood. - Bulb holder is now clearly visible on the left side of the shifter housing. Pry it out with a screw driver. You don't need to remove the knob or the shift gate. Remove the bulb, goto the store and match it up. After you've done it once or twice, you can do this job in about 10 minutes. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:53 AM, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote: Let's try again. I can open up and even completely remove the wood console if I have to but 1) do I newed to remove the *shifter knob*, and 2) *where will I find the elusive bulb*? On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote: Opening up the 126 and 123 console is not that hard, I always have to review the section in the manual because I always forget the steps. I have discovered that a little swiveling inspection mirror is a wonderful tool to observe all those hidden bits. What were they thinking? Our German bulbs last a lifetime... --R On 10/17/2010 11:22 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote: What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Both PW switches, 4 way flasher, fader switch and the console wood?? The shifter knob itself?? If there is a bulb it has to be TINY and nearly INACCESSIBLE. Is it unique? What were they thinking? On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 9:57 PM, Jim Catheyj...@windwireless.net wrote: There was a wire leading in but I felt around and couldn't find a bulb. It's there, keep trying. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
Danke alles, I have calmed down a bit. I figure I will push the car into the street while SWMBO is at school, set the parking brake, back the 300D out as fast as I can, and then roll the poor SDL back in, hoping no one is waiting to pass during the interval. :) Unfortunately because the street is narrow, and slopes pretty severely at the end of the driveway, it is hard to get a good parking spot without blocking one of four driveways, and my narrow driveway makes it hard to swing with a push/pull. On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff), just three pawed-over 380SEL/420SELs. One guy was pulling bits out of the interior of a new 380, but all gassers and nothing useful. [There was a really sad MG Midget, about 3 years from being an orange pile if left alone. Almost no parts worth saving, and not just because they only fit on an MG.] On the up side I got a pan from car-part; still cheaper than buying a welder, mask, and wire, and probably more effective as well. :) These things apparently are pretty valuable, so if you've got one now might be a good time to sell. There were only a few on car-part, none on ebay, no other used source I could find. Don, I will look through the archives for your writeup, but do you remember offhand if there are any special tools I will need (other than cherry picker)? Thanks, -Tim still a bit bummed but happy to have a repair plan On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:54 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: The pan is cast aluminum - not the thing to learn to weld on. I punched a hole in a 603 pan with a jack once - took it to a good welding shop - the pan and three broken parts. They clamped it to a flat surface, and welded the part back together - very carefully, and worked hard to keep the warping to a minimum. When I installed it, I found that I couldn't torque one of the rear cormer bolts all the way without the pan leaking - had to go only to about 60%, so I waksed out the bolt hole with brake cleaner, and used blue lock-tite on that bolt. I drove the car another year or two, then traded it off - last I heard, it was still running fine. Note that you will have to remove the idler arm and steering shock to remove the pan, as well as loosen the mounts and lift the engine some with a hoist. A better write-up is probably in the archives of this list - On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 3:16 PM, bb...@crone.us wrote: The kids came in and told me the diesel had some oil under it... I came out to 6 quarts on the driveway. It appears we knocked a hole (an old weld?) in the oil pan on the way home from lunch. There were no 603s in the junkyard last time I was there, and I need to get the car driving (only a little) so I can get out the 300 tomorrow. Will a stick weld hold for a few minutes to get things in and out? Longer term is there any solution short of replacement? It doesn't look awful in the manual but the pan prices are kind of prohibitive (Rusty @ $526 for example). Will any 603 have the same pan or do I need to stick to SDLs? I can't weld (yet), is this a good excuse to learn? Need to get it fixed before December, give or take. Thanks for any advice, -Tim -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
What 126 parts are being looked for? There is a 126 300SD and an SDL at a local yard, I picked over the SD pretty well but it still has quite a bit of stuff in and on it. He was trying to sell the whole SDL last year, but I think they are parting it now, --R On 10/18/2010 11:48 AM, Tim C wrote: On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] LBJ woes
Saturday I had a few hours to work on The Project (aka '95 E300 Diesel) so I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper and rebuilt the idler arm, and also investigated the source of the groaning noise at the right front of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel. Also tried to fix or diagnose the stiff steering. My conclusion is that at least on LBJ is bad (left has ripped boot) and one questionable. Left has black boot, quite aged and torn. Right has newer looking boot, brown in color, which is intact. I injected about 1 mL of ATF into the right side, which cured the noise IF that was the cause vice a tie rod end (replaced tie rods and injected at the same time, had the car up on jack stands and wheel off). Stiffness seems a little better. Right side LBJ has no play as far as I can tell. My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? They are old and checkered looking, probably original with 275k miles on them. I don't want to drive the car too much until the LBJ's are done, and I'm tempted to have a garage do the work, as I don't own the spring tool nor the LBJ press nor the special tool for the inner bushings. I'll bet the bill will be around $300 for just the LBJs, which I think is a fair price but I'm getting sick and tired of sinking money into this car. Anyone know the book time for LBJ's and inner bushings on the lower control arms? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Auf Wiedersehen 300D
That motorhome was sweet. That'd been nice to head to the beach in. Bob R On Oct 18, 2010 8:39 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: Bob Rentfro wrote: Time to stash that money away in the looking-for-the-220D fund or the something-made-in-1960 fund. http://saginaw.craigslist.org/ctd/1969718456.html http://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/1991157205.html But too far, unless you have the guts to fly out here and drive the good one home. Who needs reverse, anyway? If that motorhome in Portland were close enough to conveniently inspect, I would have loved to drive it home and call it a portable office. We've got decent $5000 motorhomes up here, but none as interesting as that one was. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] SLS level control valves [was: OM603 oil pan breech]
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:48 AM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote: On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff) That would be my SLS thingy. :) The offer to pay you junkyard price plus shipping plus a generous allowance for your time still stands! There are several leveling valves on eBay from 123 wagons and 560SELs, but starting price on each is $100 or more, which is a little more than I want to spend just for research purposes. I wish I knew what the difference is between those and the kind at the rear end of a 6.9 (which is also on my 126). I would take apart the one on my car, but it's working fine, and I am not confident enough in my ability to put it back together right. A cheap junkyard one, though, that's another story. Considering that the 123/560SEL part goes for $300 or so new, and the NLA 6.9 part goes for $1K or so used, it seems to me somebody could make money rebuilding these---or even, in the case of the 6.9 part, manufacturing a drop-in replacement from scratch (a la the Unwired Tools replacement 116 ACC brain). How complicated can it be inside? A few fluid passages, some holes tapped appropriately for the lines, and a valve that changes flow rate depending on the position of a lever? Sounds like something any undergraduate mechanical-engineering student could design and any machinist could build. Alex ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Junk Yard Escapades - was OM603 oil pan breech
Rich - Did you see any 124 sedans/coupes? I need a rear seat cushion, have a good skin so color doesn't matter. I need one that's dry and not moldy - SWMBO's nose will be pass/fail test. Also need the sound-deadening matt underneath. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 11:54 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech What 126 parts are being looked for? There is a 126 300SD and an SDL at a local yard, I picked over the SD pretty well but it still has quite a bit of stuff in and on it. He was trying to sell the whole SDL last year, but I think they are parting it now, --R On 10/18/2010 11:48 AM, Tim C wrote: On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] 124 Idler Arm Rebuild - grease or no grease?
Subject line speaks for itself. I see no mention of grease or lube required for the idler arm, yet the one I replaced had evidence of white lithium grease. Anyone know the answer? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
What caused the breech? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim C Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 11:49 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech Danke alles, I have calmed down a bit. I figure I will push the car into the street while SWMBO is at school, set the parking brake, back the 300D out as fast as I can, and then roll the poor SDL back in, hoping no one is waiting to pass during the interval. :) Unfortunately because the street is narrow, and slopes pretty severely at the end of the driveway, it is hard to get a good parking spot without blocking one of four driveways, and my narrow driveway makes it hard to swing with a push/pull. On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff), just three pawed-over 380SEL/420SELs. One guy was pulling bits out of the interior of a new 380, but all gassers and nothing useful. [There was a really sad MG Midget, about 3 years from being an orange pile if left alone. Almost no parts worth saving, and not just because they only fit on an MG.] On the up side I got a pan from car-part; still cheaper than buying a welder, mask, and wire, and probably more effective as well. :) These things apparently are pretty valuable, so if you've got one now might be a good time to sell. There were only a few on car-part, none on ebay, no other used source I could find. Don, I will look through the archives for your writeup, but do you remember offhand if there are any special tools I will need (other than cherry picker)? Thanks, -Tim still a bit bummed but happy to have a repair plan On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:54 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: The pan is cast aluminum - not the thing to learn to weld on. I punched a hole in a 603 pan with a jack once - took it to a good welding shop - the pan and three broken parts. They clamped it to a flat surface, and welded the part back together - very carefully, and worked hard to keep the warping to a minimum. When I installed it, I found that I couldn't torque one of the rear cormer bolts all the way without the pan leaking - had to go only to about 60%, so I waksed out the bolt hole with brake cleaner, and used blue lock-tite on that bolt. I drove the car another year or two, then traded it off - last I heard, it was still running fine. Note that you will have to remove the idler arm and steering shock to remove the pan, as well as loosen the mounts and lift the engine some with a hoist. A better write-up is probably in the archives of this list - On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 3:16 PM, bb...@crone.us wrote: The kids came in and told me the diesel had some oil under it... I came out to 6 quarts on the driveway. It appears we knocked a hole (an old weld?) in the oil pan on the way home from lunch. There were no 603s in the junkyard last time I was there, and I need to get the car driving (only a little) so I can get out the 300 tomorrow. Will a stick weld hold for a few minutes to get things in and out? Longer term is there any solution short of replacement? It doesn't look awful in the manual but the pan prices are kind of prohibitive (Rusty @ $526 for example). Will any 603 have the same pan or do I need to stick to SDLs? I can't weld (yet), is this a good excuse to learn? Need to get it fixed before December, give or take. Thanks for any advice, -Tim -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? If you're going THERE, why not replace the complete control arm and not mess with BJ and bushing? Oops, forget I said that. This ain't your father's W123. $200 each. Mitch. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] who wants a green/tan '95 W124?
http://jxn.craigslist.org/cto/2008196196.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Car for resident counsel
I guess cars for legislators that kept them fully occupied / out of office would serve the national interest better? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dieselhead Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 10:33 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Car for resident counsel And the fun dual Zeniths should keep 'im off the street to protect the rest of us. That is too funny. --R On 10/18/2010 7:48 AM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/2010565280.html Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (STILL a project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Auf Wiedersehen 300D
Bob Rentfro wrote: That motorhome was sweet. That'd been nice to head to the beach in. I almost bought one of those things with the Lincoln nose grafted on it last year. I'd rather have a Benz or a Vixen though. http://www.sportfishermen.com/board/f534/1987-eldorado-starfire-class-motorhome-rv-orange-ma-1132051.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] who wants a green/tan '95 W124?
I have a colleague looking for one, and that price is nice, but too far from SC. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:17 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] who wants a green/tan '95 W124? http://jxn.craigslist.org/cto/2008196196.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
Still not sure; the front of the oil pan is shaped strangely and has an odd texture, so I am guessing it was repaired sometime in its life. I had scraped it leaving the parking lot at lunch, but I didn't have any drop in oil pressure; my current theory is that the bump knocked something loose, and the oil pressure happened to keep something in the hole driving home. As the engine cooled, pressure dropped, bit loosened, and oil came out. Hopefully I will know more when I get it off, I've only had the car for two months so I'm still getting it broken in (nyuck nyuck). All in all it was good that it died at home, aside from the annoyance of having parked myself in and having to mulch the driveway; much better than losing oil at highway speed and maybe not noticing immediately. Just wish I'd parked on the street like I usually do. :) Thanks, -Tim On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: What caused the breech? -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Tim C Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 11:49 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech Danke alles, I have calmed down a bit. I figure I will push the car into the street while SWMBO is at school, set the parking brake, back the 300D out as fast as I can, and then roll the poor SDL back in, hoping no one is waiting to pass during the interval. :) Unfortunately because the street is narrow, and slopes pretty severely at the end of the driveway, it is hard to get a good parking spot without blocking one of four driveways, and my narrow driveway makes it hard to swing with a push/pull. On the down side there was -nothing- good in the junkyard today (also looking for [Alan's?] SLS thingy and Joe's 126 stuff), just three pawed-over 380SEL/420SELs. One guy was pulling bits out of the interior of a new 380, but all gassers and nothing useful. [There was a really sad MG Midget, about 3 years from being an orange pile if left alone. Almost no parts worth saving, and not just because they only fit on an MG.] On the up side I got a pan from car-part; still cheaper than buying a welder, mask, and wire, and probably more effective as well. :) These things apparently are pretty valuable, so if you've got one now might be a good time to sell. There were only a few on car-part, none on ebay, no other used source I could find. Don, I will look through the archives for your writeup, but do you remember offhand if there are any special tools I will need (other than cherry picker)? Thanks, -Tim still a bit bummed but happy to have a repair plan On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 5:54 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: The pan is cast aluminum - not the thing to learn to weld on. I punched a hole in a 603 pan with a jack once - took it to a good welding shop - the pan and three broken parts. They clamped it to a flat surface, and welded the part back together - very carefully, and worked hard to keep the warping to a minimum. When I installed it, I found that I couldn't torque one of the rear cormer bolts all the way without the pan leaking - had to go only to about 60%, so I waksed out the bolt hole with brake cleaner, and used blue lock-tite on that bolt. I drove the car another year or two, then traded it off - last I heard, it was still running fine. Note that you will have to remove the idler arm and steering shock to remove the pan, as well as loosen the mounts and lift the engine some with a hoist. A better write-up is probably in the archives of this list - On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 3:16 PM, bb...@crone.us wrote: The kids came in and told me the diesel had some oil under it... I came out to 6 quarts on the driveway. It appears we knocked a hole (an old weld?) in the oil pan on the way home from lunch. There were no 603s in the junkyard last time I was there, and I need to get the car driving (only a little) so I can get out the 300 tomorrow. Will a stick weld hold for a few minutes to get things in and out? Longer term is there any solution short of replacement? It doesn't look awful in the manual but the pan prices are kind of prohibitive (Rusty @ $526 for example). Will any 603 have the same pan or do I need to stick to SDLs? I can't weld (yet), is this a good excuse to learn? Need to get it fixed before December, give or take. Thanks for any advice, -Tim -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
It will be cheaper to replace the lower control arm -- that will include new bushings, new ball joints and is a quick swap compared to the chore or swaging in the new bushings and pressing in and out a new ball joint. You will get eaten by the labor doing the replacement parts vs the whole control arm. You will have to get a front end alignment anyway. Peter -Original Message- From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil Sent: Oct 18, 2010 11:04 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] LBJ woes Saturday I had a few hours to work on The Project (aka '95 E300 Diesel) so I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper and rebuilt the idler arm, and also investigated the source of the groaning noise at the right front of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel. Also tried to fix or diagnose the stiff steering. My conclusion is that at least on LBJ is bad (left has ripped boot) and one questionable. Left has black boot, quite aged and torn. Right has newer looking boot, brown in color, which is intact. I injected about 1 mL of ATF into the right side, which cured the noise IF that was the cause vice a tie rod end (replaced tie rods and injected at the same time, had the car up on jack stands and wheel off). Stiffness seems a little better. Right side LBJ has no play as far as I can tell. My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? They are old and checkered looking, probably original with 275k miles on them. I don't want to drive the car too much until the LBJ's are done, and I'm tempted to have a garage do the work, as I don't own the spring tool nor the LBJ press nor the special tool for the inner bushings. I'll bet the bill will be around $300 for just the LBJs, which I think is a fair price but I'm getting sick and tired of sinking money into this car. Anyone know the book time for LBJ's and inner bushings on the lower control arms? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Bad gasoline
More likely that station tank had water in it, and when the higher ethanol fuel was put in, it absorbed the water. I always buy fuel from a narrow selection of stations, including Shell. Not so hot on the company, per se, but I've never gotten bad fuel from the. I get a lot of diesel from the local farm coop, too -- 10% bio-D and I get much less smoke and about 1 mpg better milage. Don't buy much gas, and it's all premium (72 280 SE and 88 TE, both require it), so no experience there. Peter -Original Message- From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Sent: Oct 18, 2010 10:35 AM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] Bad gasoline A couple of weeks ago my daughter had trouble with her 107 SL stalling. Her last fuel was from a texaco station that was recently taken over by what may be iraqis (not native Americans). I told her to try putting a few gallons or premium in from the station across the street, that happens to be a Shell station. She just left the car sit for a week or so. Last night she reported she put in 3 gal of premium and filled the tank with unleaded regular.She said that the car is running just fine, the car ran rough until the new fuel got into the inj. system, then smoothed out. After driving it a few days, it is running normally. To repeat, the problem is no ethanol, it is people who purposefully blend ethanol and water into the fuel. This reduced the BTU/lb of the fuel. While the engine will run, however poorly, the practice is fraud and theft. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
Oh. Lower Ball Joint. I saw the subject and thought we were going political with Lyndon Baynes Johnson. lol Rick ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
You may be right. About $150 difference (~2 hours labor) between one side complete assembly and all the repair kits/parts for same. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Peter Frederick Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:38 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes It will be cheaper to replace the lower control arm -- that will include new bushings, new ball joints and is a quick swap compared to the chore or swaging in the new bushings and pressing in and out a new ball joint. You will get eaten by the labor doing the replacement parts vs the whole control arm. You will have to get a front end alignment anyway. Peter -Original Message- From: Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil Sent: Oct 18, 2010 11:04 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] LBJ woes Saturday I had a few hours to work on The Project (aka '95 E300 Diesel) so I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper and rebuilt the idler arm, and also investigated the source of the groaning noise at the right front of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel. Also tried to fix or diagnose the stiff steering. My conclusion is that at least on LBJ is bad (left has ripped boot) and one questionable. Left has black boot, quite aged and torn. Right has newer looking boot, brown in color, which is intact. I injected about 1 mL of ATF into the right side, which cured the noise IF that was the cause vice a tie rod end (replaced tie rods and injected at the same time, had the car up on jack stands and wheel off). Stiffness seems a little better. Right side LBJ has no play as far as I can tell. My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? They are old and checkered looking, probably original with 275k miles on them. I don't want to drive the car too much until the LBJ's are done, and I'm tempted to have a garage do the work, as I don't own the spring tool nor the LBJ press nor the special tool for the inner bushings. I'll bet the bill will be around $300 for just the LBJs, which I think is a fair price but I'm getting sick and tired of sinking money into this car. Anyone know the book time for LBJ's and inner bushings on the lower control arms? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124 Idler Arm Rebuild - grease or no grease?
I've always replaced them as they come from the factory. There is a bit of white grease and thats it. Press the bushings in place and bolt it up. I think this is just to aid in installation, and perhaps prevent the bushings from seizing in place over time. Jaime On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 meade.m.dil...@navy.mil wrote: Subject line speaks for itself. I see no mention of grease or lube required for the idler arm, yet the one I replaced had evidence of white lithium grease. Anyone know the answer? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Bad gasoline
I've only ever had a bad experience with fuel once. That was Texaco. I was running their really hot fuel at the time as I was driving my car pretty hard. The fuel, which did contain ethanol caused several problems. The car was stored for a few months, and it gummed up the injectors, and other things. Not sure about the US, but here in Canada, Shell cut their regular fuel with up to 10% ethanol, their mid grade, by up to 5%, and their premium is all gas, zero ethanol. I always run premium in the Germany cars, and regular in the minivan, as that's what the manual calls for with said cars. I'm not sure I'd want to drop down to a regular fuel, with ethanol, in a car that was designed to run on premium. Bit more expensive, but cheap insurance, and it allows you to enjoy all the performance that was engineered into the engine. For any old car that is being stored, I would avoid ethanol at all costs, even when stored with a stabilizer. Based on personal experience. Ed 300E On 18 October 2010 11:35, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: A couple of weeks ago my daughter had trouble with her 107 SL stalling. Her last fuel was from a texaco station that was recently taken over by what may be iraqis (not native Americans). I told her to try putting a few gallons or premium in from the station across the street, that happens to be a Shell station. She just left the car sit for a week or so. Last night she reported she put in 3 gal of premium and filled the tank with unleaded regular.She said that the car is running just fine, the car ran rough until the new fuel got into the inj. system, then smoothed out. After driving it a few days, it is running normally. To repeat, the problem is no ethanol, it is people who purposefully blend ethanol and water into the fuel. This reduced the BTU/lb of the fuel. While the engine will run, however poorly, the practice is fraud and theft. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
If the oel made the noise go away, and there is no play, why not just drive it? As long as there is no play, you are not in any danger to drive it. If it starts to wander, then check the ball joint for play. The inner bushings may be checked, but still working. Until it has worn to the place that it wanders more than you can stand, there is no problem. Saturday I had a few hours to work on The Project (aka '95 E300 Diesel) so I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper and rebuilt the idler arm, and also investigated the source of the groaning noise at the right front of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel. Also tried to fix or diagnose the stiff steering. My conclusion is that at least on LBJ is bad (left has ripped boot) and one questionable. Left has black boot, quite aged and torn. Right has newer looking boot, brown in color, which is intact. I injected about 1 mL of ATF into the right side, which cured the noise IF that was the cause vice a tie rod end (replaced tie rods and injected at the same time, had the car up on jack stands and wheel off). Stiffness seems a little better. Right side LBJ has no play as far as I can tell. My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? They are old and checkered looking, probably original with 275k miles on them. I don't want to drive the car too much until the LBJ's are done, and I'm tempted to have a garage do the work, as I don't own the spring tool nor the LBJ press nor the special tool for the inner bushings. I'll bet the bill will be around $300 for just the LBJs, which I think is a fair price but I'm getting sick and tired of sinking money into this car. Anyone know the book time for LBJ's and inner bushings on the lower control arms? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SLS level control valves (was: OM603 oil pan breech)
The SLS valves for W115/123/126/124/201 etc rear axles are totally different from the valves on the 6.9 and W126 with four-wheel hydropneumatic suspension. The rear-axle-only SLS version has a base pressure ball valve which is designed to guarantee a static pressure irrespective of the position of the control lever. There's never no pressure in the suspension circuit (unless the base pressure valve spring is weak), and the steel suspension ensures that even a leaky valve won't result in any dramatic height changes when the car is off. MB sells a rebuild kit 000-586-00-32 (about $100) for these valves. The four-wheel levelling system on the 6.9/W126 is totally different from other MB SLS systems. It is a shameless (probably licensed) copy of the Citroën system. The height control valve is actually much simpler than the rear-SLS valves (fewer components), but it is made to MUCH tighter tolerances. The system, including cutaways of the height corrector valves, is described here: http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/index.html?hc/chapter4.html Another useful link: http://www.citroenet.org.uk/miscellaneous/hydraulics/hydraulics-1.html The machining tolerances on these valves are tighter than on the SLS valves, because any leakage in the valve will cause the car to sink to the ground when shut off. There are no springs to back up the hydraulic pressure. This requires extremely tight valving, and a conventional machine shop would not reliably be able to achieve those tolerances, certainly not at a price you'd be willing to pay. Of course, leakdown could also be caused by any other component in the pressure circuit, which is why people often replace the levelling valves only to discover that wasn't the problem. Unless the corrector valve is leaking externally or seized, it's generally fine. Below, extracts from http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/gen/Asnieres.html describing the process of making the slide valves in the height correctors. I wouldn't be surprised if MB sourced their valves from Citroen, rather than bothering to set up another OEM... The finishing processes are carried out on centerless grinding machines, and vary according to the profile and dimensions of the slide valves. On each pass, the machining chip gets smaller and smaller, down from 0.06 mm to 0.04 mm to 0.01 mm. At this stage the part is ready for superfinishing. There are still 5 microns left to be removed before the setting is perfect. This is done by lapping, and the chip now is no more than micron dust. Lapping is performed on the circular plate of the lapping machine, a form of grinding wheel, on which the operator sets out 150 slide valves into the recesses provided for that purpose, a second rotating plate rolls and polishes the slide valves in their axis rather like ball bearings. The operator, guided by his know-how and the sixth sense born of experience, carries out the inspections he deems necessary as the setting approaches its final development. He also turns the slide valves over in order to correct for the conical effect produced by the lapping process. Three levels of tolerance compliance have to be attained by the slide valves: 1 micron in diameter, 0.5 microns out-of-shape, and 0.3 microns in surface finish. In order to observe the micron and even lower requirements, inspection to within a tenth of a micron by the measuring apparatus is required. Of course, not only does the measurement have to be precise, but it must also be reliable under workshop conditions. To obtain this, a number of precautions (e.g. avoiding continual variations in temperature) have to be taken. The solution adopted at Asnières is simple and foolproof: the operator compares the part with a benchmark of the same dimension and material, which is regularly checked by the metrology laboratory of the Quality control department. Alex Chamberlain wrote: There are several leveling valves on eBay from 123 wagons and 560SELs, but starting price on each is $100 or more, which is a little more than I want to spend just for research purposes. I wish I knew what the difference is between those and the kind at the rear end of a 6.9 (which is also on my 126). I would take apart the one on my car, but it's working fine, and I am not confident enough in my ability to put it back together right. A cheap junkyard one, though, that's another story. Considering that the 123/560SEL part goes for $300 or so new, and the NLA 6.9 part goes for $1K or so used, it seems to me somebody could make money rebuilding these---or even, in the case of the 6.9 part, manufacturing a drop-in replacement from scratch (a la the Unwired Tools replacement 116 ACC brain). How complicated can it be inside? A few fluid passages, some holes tapped appropriately for the lines, and a valve that changes flow rate depending on the position of a lever? Sounds like something any undergraduate mechanical-engineering student could design and any
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
Allan Streib wrote: Anyone know if there is a good receiver-type tow hitch available for a W123? All I've found online is a fixed one that bolts through the bottom of the trunk. And what about for a wagon? Can't bolt that one to the same spot that's a trunk on the sedan 'cause it's a fuel tank. I'm not wanting to pull a 3-ton trailer - but I'd like a small covered trailer and a good way to hitch it. --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SLS level control valves [was: OM603 oil pan breech]
Alex Chamberlain wrote: How complicated can it be inside? A few fluid passages, some holes tapped appropriately for the lines, and a valve that changes flow rate depending on the position of a lever? I have photos of the inside of one from a 123 wagon - is anyone is interested. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SLS level control valves (was: OM603 oil pan breech)
Other car manufacturers, notably Rolls-Royce and Mercedes-Benz licenced the system which was also used on Berliet trucks. Similar systems are also used on some military vehicles. Bingo! Walt, who's making Benz parts today, oh joy... On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 2:13 PM, David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote: The SLS valves for W115/123/126/124/201 etc rear axles are totally different from the valves on the 6.9 and W126 with four-wheel hydropneumatic suspension. The rear-axle-only SLS version has a base pressure ball valve which is designed to guarantee a static pressure irrespective of the position of the control lever. There's never no pressure in the suspension circuit (unless the base pressure valve spring is weak), and the steel suspension ensures that even a leaky valve won't result in any dramatic height changes when the car is off. MB sells a rebuild kit 000-586-00-32 (about $100) for these valves. The four-wheel levelling system on the 6.9/W126 is totally different from other MB SLS systems. It is a shameless (probably licensed) copy of the Citroën system. The height control valve is actually much simpler than the rear-SLS valves (fewer components), but it is made to MUCH tighter tolerances. The system, including cutaways of the height corrector valves, is described here: http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/index.html?hc/chapter4.html Another useful link: http://www.citroenet.org.uk/miscellaneous/hydraulics/hydraulics-1.html The machining tolerances on these valves are tighter than on the SLS valves, because any leakage in the valve will cause the car to sink to the ground when shut off. There are no springs to back up the hydraulic pressure. This requires extremely tight valving, and a conventional machine shop would not reliably be able to achieve those tolerances, certainly not at a price you'd be willing to pay. Of course, leakdown could also be caused by any other component in the pressure circuit, which is why people often replace the levelling valves only to discover that wasn't the problem. Unless the corrector valve is leaking externally or seized, it's generally fine. Below, extracts from http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/gen/Asnieres.html describing the process of making the slide valves in the height correctors. I wouldn't be surprised if MB sourced their valves from Citroen, rather than bothering to set up another OEM... The finishing processes are carried out on centerless grinding machines, and vary according to the profile and dimensions of the slide valves. On each pass, the machining chip gets smaller and smaller, down from 0.06 mm to 0.04 mm to 0.01 mm. At this stage the part is ready for superfinishing. There are still 5 microns left to be removed before the setting is perfect. This is done by lapping, and the chip now is no more than micron dust. Lapping is performed on the circular plate of the lapping machine, a form of grinding wheel, on which the operator sets out 150 slide valves into the recesses provided for that purpose, a second rotating plate rolls and polishes the slide valves in their axis rather like ball bearings. The operator, guided by his know-how and the sixth sense born of experience, carries out the inspections he deems necessary as the setting approaches its final development. He also turns the slide valves over in order to correct for the conical effect produced by the lapping process. Three levels of tolerance compliance have to be attained by the slide valves: 1 micron in diameter, 0.5 microns out-of-shape, and 0.3 microns in surface finish. In order to observe the micron and even lower requirements, inspection to within a tenth of a micron by the measuring apparatus is required. Of course, not only does the measurement have to be precise, but it must also be reliable under workshop conditions. To obtain this, a number of precautions (e.g. avoiding continual variations in temperature) have to be taken. The solution adopted at Asnières is simple and foolproof: the operator compares the part with a benchmark of the same dimension and material, which is regularly checked by the metrology laboratory of the Quality control department. Alex Chamberlain wrote: There are several leveling valves on eBay from 123 wagons and 560SELs, but starting price on each is $100 or more, which is a little more than I want to spend just for research purposes. I wish I knew what the difference is between those and the kind at the rear end of a 6.9 (which is also on my 126). I would take apart the one on my car, but it's working fine, and I am not confident enough in my ability to put it back together right. A cheap junkyard one, though, that's another story. Considering that the 123/560SEL part goes for $300 or so new, and the NLA 6.9 part goes for $1K or so used, it seems to me somebody could make money rebuilding these---or even, in the case of the 6.9 part, manufacturing a drop-in replacement from
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
Fmiser wrote: I'm not wanting to pull a 3-ton trailer - but I'd like a small covered trailer and a good way to hitch it. I've seen a homemade hitch, I think it was for S123, that featured two flat plates with holes drilled for the bumper bolts, a crossbar connecting the two plates, and a receiver tube welded to the center of the crossbar. Wouldn't be hard to build one on the car if you have the welding equipment. A full strength hitch would require more than a sandwich mount between the bumper and body, and would probably look like this: http://www.capandhitch.com/PDF/HITCHES/CM-11806-55-INS.PDF ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Junk Yard Escapades - was OM603 oil pan breech
There might be one there, if I am out that way I will stop in and check it out. --R On 10/18/2010 12:08 PM, Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote: Rich - Did you see any 124 sedans/coupes? I need a rear seat cushion, have a good skin so color doesn't matter. I need one that's dry and not moldy - SWMBO's nose will be pass/fail test. Also need the sound-deadening matt underneath. -Max ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes
I've got play in the steering, but haven't decisively narrowed it down yet (still need to replace center drag link). I tested one LBJ using a long pry bar and suitable fulcrum, perhaps I really need an assistant to do it right. Bottom line is the steering is stiff with some play, two lower ball joints are highly suspect, and a complete failure mode of wheel departing car and driver becoming passenger followed by bad and expensive noises. I'm going to replace the lower ball joints, I simply need to decide how much further to go. I need to call my indie and get some quotes. -Max -Original Message- From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dieselhead Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 1:31 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] LBJ woes If the oel made the noise go away, and there is no play, why not just drive it? As long as there is no play, you are not in any danger to drive it. If it starts to wander, then check the ball joint for play. The inner bushings may be checked, but still working. Until it has worn to the place that it wanders more than you can stand, there is no problem. Saturday I had a few hours to work on The Project (aka '95 E300 Diesel) so I replaced the tie rod ends and steering damper and rebuilt the idler arm, and also investigated the source of the groaning noise at the right front of the car, which occurs when turning the steering wheel. Also tried to fix or diagnose the stiff steering. My conclusion is that at least on LBJ is bad (left has ripped boot) and one questionable. Left has black boot, quite aged and torn. Right has newer looking boot, brown in color, which is intact. I injected about 1 mL of ATF into the right side, which cured the noise IF that was the cause vice a tie rod end (replaced tie rods and injected at the same time, had the car up on jack stands and wheel off). Stiffness seems a little better. Right side LBJ has no play as far as I can tell. My dilemma; how far do I go? Whole hog rebuild of lower control arms including the inner bushings? They are old and checkered looking, probably original with 275k miles on them. I don't want to drive the car too much until the LBJ's are done, and I'm tempted to have a garage do the work, as I don't own the spring tool nor the LBJ press nor the special tool for the inner bushings. I'll bet the bill will be around $300 for just the LBJs, which I think is a fair price but I'm getting sick and tired of sinking money into this car. Anyone know the book time for LBJ's and inner bushings on the lower control arms? Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 330k miles '95 E300 275k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: smime.p7s Type: application/x-pkcs7-signature Size: 5688 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20101018/403c67e7/attachment.bin ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
Mitch Haley wrote: Fmiser wrote: I'm not wanting to pull a 3-ton trailer - but I'd like a small covered trailer and a good way to hitch it. I've seen a homemade hitch, I think it was for S123, that featured two flat plates with holes drilled for the bumper bolts, a crossbar connecting the two plates, and a receiver tube welded to the center of the crossbar. Wouldn't be hard to build one on the car if you have the welding equipment. A full strength hitch would require more than a sandwich mount between the bumper and body, and would probably look like this: http://www.capandhitch.com/PDF/HITCHES/CM-11806-55-INS.PDF Nice! I'm looking at a trailer like one of these. http://www.littlecargotrailers.com/ --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
You can get one for a wagon E.g. http://www.etrailer.com/hitch-1983_Mercedes-Benz_300TD.htm On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 13:39 -0500, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote: Allan Streib wrote: Anyone know if there is a good receiver-type tow hitch available for a W123? All I've found online is a fixed one that bolts through the bottom of the trunk. And what about for a wagon? Can't bolt that one to the same spot that's a trunk on the sedan 'cause it's a fuel tank. I'm not wanting to pull a 3-ton trailer - but I'd like a small covered trailer and a good way to hitch it. --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
I'm thinking more along these lines: http://www.gt1.homeip.net/project-trailer.htm My objective is to get rid of my truck and do any occasional hauling I need with a flat trailer. Should come out way ahead, financially. Allan On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 14:56 -0500, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote: Mitch Haley wrote: Fmiser wrote: I'm not wanting to pull a 3-ton trailer - but I'd like a small covered trailer and a good way to hitch it. I've seen a homemade hitch, I think it was for S123, that featured two flat plates with holes drilled for the bumper bolts, a crossbar connecting the two plates, and a receiver tube welded to the center of the crossbar. Wouldn't be hard to build one on the car if you have the welding equipment. A full strength hitch would require more than a sandwich mount between the bumper and body, and would probably look like this: http://www.capandhitch.com/PDF/HITCHES/CM-11806-55-INS.PDF Nice! I'm looking at a trailer like one of these. http://www.littlecargotrailers.com/ --Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
I'd recommend making the axle/tongue one assembly, and have the bed hinge at the axle and clip onto the tongue. That makes for better tracking/less wobble. In essence, the axle-tongue makes an isosceles triangle. (CL of the tongue-one side of axle-angle brace make the three sides of a right triangle) That said, my coleman trailer has a u-channel under the bed for the 2x2 tube tongue to rest in. It has a bolt near the rear of the tongue where the tongue pivots, and a pin near the front of the bed to tip or no-tip. I'm thinking more along these lines: http://www.gt1.homeip.net/project-trailer.htm My objective is to get rid of my truck and do any occasional hauling I need with a flat trailer. Should come out way ahead, financially. Allan To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint noises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
Grounds? --R On 10/18/2010 6:15 PM, glenn brown wrote: While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint noises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
Looking forwad to answers to this problem myself, the same thing is going on with my 86 SDL. Harry 86 300 SDL - Original Message - From: glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 5:15 PM Subject: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint noises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
I would look for clues in the door, but it is possible that a wire going through the door into the body pillar might be work hardened to the breaking point. The relay is possible. Bear in mind that BOTH windows are on the same fuse. Have you put in a new fuse? While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint noises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SLS level control valves (was: OM603 oil pan breech)
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 11:13 AM, David Bruckmann bruckma...@transcontinental.ca wrote: The SLS valves for W115/123/126/124/201 etc rear axles are totally different from the valves on the 6.9 and W126 with four-wheel hydropneumatic suspension. Very, very useful info, David! Thank you! I knew that the system M-B used on the 6.9 and on the W126 with Hydramat (which is what I have) was similar to Citroen's, but I didn't realize just how similar. Any recommendations for prolonging the life of the level control valves, other than (obviously) regular fluid changes and keeping the rest of the system in good order? The previous owner of my Euro 500SEL did various dumb things with the car, chief among them driving it off and on for at least a few months, possibly closer to a year, with bad pressure spheres. It doesn't seem to have suffered for that, though. Right now I'm in the process of sourcing the correct rod to go from the level control valve to the rear anti-roll bar. (The PO had joined the two with a piece of coathanger.) I also noticed that the new-in-box valve that sold for $850 on eBay had a rubber boot between the valve body and the control lever, which mine is missing although there's some grease clinging to the mechanism that would have been covered by the boot. The boot is NLA as well, so I'm going to replace it with one McMaster-Carr sells that looks like it will fit snugly, and fill it with good-quality grease on the assumption that the mechanism there was supposed to be well-greased to protect it from the elements, a la a CV joint. (See pictures.) Alex -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: rear-leveling-valve-ebay.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97637 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20101018/75356f13/attachment.jpg -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: rear-leveling-valve2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 129473 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20101018/75356f13/attachment-0001.jpg ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
A little off the topic of your question... but which rust converter are you using? Allan On Mon, 18 Oct 2010 18:15 -0400, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote: While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint no! ises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. BrownBrevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
glenn brown wrote: ... I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC Does it matter if the door is swung open or not? That can be an indication of a broken wire between the body and the door. I have replace 3-4 wires in various cars for that reason. Often wiggling the rubber boot can move the wires enough to make it work or not. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
Broken/frayed wires in the accordion joint at the door hinge? -Max From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of glenn brown Sent: Mon 10/18/2010 6:15 PM To: mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: [MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD While taking the door upholstery apart on my newly acquired '85 300TD in order to use rust converter and undercoating/rustproofing on the interior of the doors, I started with the LF door the other day and the electric windows for this door and the RR door stopped working after reassembly. I figured it may be the ice cube size window relay up behind the instrument cluster, as I had this problem with my '84 300D some years ago and unplugging and replugging this relay resolved the problem. But since there doesn't seem enough room to get my paws in behind the instrument cluster to disconnect the speedometer, oil pressure line, and electrical connector in order that I may remove the instrument cluster and deal with the window relay. I pulled the LF door upholstery back off today in order to check the electric window ground and voltage. Ground is good and, when I was measuring the voltage across the terminal block on the door the electric window motor was making some faint noises as if it was trying to operate. I thought that to be odd, disconnected my voltmeter and operated the LF electric window switch and the bloody window operated. I checked the RR window and it operated as well. I reassembled the LF door upholstery and you guessed it, the LF and RR windows are inoperative again. Clue(s)? TIA. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com http://www.okiebenz.com/ For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] LF RR electric windows in '85 TD
I just changed the fuse in the #12 position (electric windows) and jiggled the wire bundle/harness in the neoprene bellows which goes through the LF door and neither produced success when the electric window rocker was depressed. A detail I hadn't mentioned - the RF LR electric windows operate fine. G. M. Brown Brevard, NC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 tow hitch?
Fmiser wrote: I'm looking at a trailer like one of these. http://www.littlecargotrailers.com/ The big one is 990lb GVWR? I bolted a cheap Valley hitch to the aluminum bumper on a Plymouth Horizon (car rated for 1500lb, but the hitch was crap IMO, only attached to bumper) and towed a 700lb sailboat rig with no problem, around town you could hardly tell it was back there. (at speed it was like pulling a parachute) This guy's project would be good for way beyond 1000lb: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=280944 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] SLS level control valves [was: OM603 oil pan breech]
Philip. I'd love some photos, please. fred.s...@verizon.net Fred Moir Lynn MA Diesel preferred On 10/18/2010 2:42 PM, Fmiser wrote: Alex Chamberlain wrote: How complicated can it be inside? A few fluid passages, some holes tapped appropriately for the lines, and a valve that changes flow rate depending on the position of a lever? I have photos of the inside of one from a 123 wagon - is anyone is interested. -- Philip ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] What's a 320 coupe worth?
No interest, wrong color. http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/2006799626.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] What's a 320 coupe worth?
Hard to say with so little info. If the car was well cared for, and reasonable mileage to low mileage, I'd feel that was a fair price for what the car is. Having said that, my well cared for means more than semi-regular oil changes at JiffyLube, and a respray at Macco. Ed 300E On 18 October 2010 21:18, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote: No interest, wrong color. http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/2006799626.html ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] OT Detroit
I have watched this new cop show on TV set in Detroit and am fascinated by the number of old abandoned buildings in it. Seems like a lot of what appear to be once very nice historic buildings that are sitting empty. I like old buildings, such a shame to see them go to ruin. Bet you can get some bargains there though!! -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OT Detroit
This one comes with only 3 bodies in it's foundation, a real deal! Walt, who can't stop laughing at that thought :) On Oct 18, 2010 9:44 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote: I have watched this new cop show on TV set in Detroit and am fascinated by the number of old abandoned buildings in it. Seems like a lot of what appear to be once very nice historic buildings that are sitting empty. I like old buildings, such a shame to see them go to ruin. Bet you can get some bargains there though!! -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
IIRC, Allen bits for a ratchet set (and the torque wrench), and something to disconnect the drag link ends - I used a pickle fork, since I also bent the drag link and steering damper and had to replace them anyway. I recommend goggles, as you will be under the engine - looking up into dripping oil. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote: Don, I will look through the archives for your writeup, but do you remember offhand if there are any special tools I will need (other than cherry picker)? Thanks, -Tim still a bit bummed but happy to have a repair plan -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] 124 Idler Arm Rebuild - grease or no grease?
What Jamie said - that's exactly what I did. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 12:06 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.comwrote: I've always replaced them as they come from the factory. There is a bit of white grease and thats it. Press the bushings in place and bolt it up. I think this is just to aid in installation, and perhaps prevent the bushings from seizing in place over time. Jaime -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
A hat (maybe swim cap?) might be a good idea as well, to keep from mopping up said oil... Walt, been there, done that, keep telling myself I'll wear one next time I'm under there... On Oct 18, 2010 9:53 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: IIRC, Allen bits for a ratchet set (and the torque wrench), and something to disconnect the drag link ends - I used a pickle fork, since I also bent the drag link and steering damper and had to replace them anyway. I recommend goggles, as you will be under the engine - looking up into dripping oil. On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote: Don, I will look through the arc... -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
I don't have enough hair left for that to be much of an issue --- On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:57 PM, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote: A hat (maybe swim cap?) might be a good idea as well, to keep from mopping up said oil... Walt, been there, done that, keep telling myself I'll wear one next time I'm under there... -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] OM603 oil pan breech
I've got a widows peak like a ships prow... My mum was a carrier for that beautiful gene... Walt On Oct 18, 2010 10:03 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote: I don't have enough hair left for that to be much of an issue --- On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 8:57 PM, Walt Zarnoch zarnoch...@gmail.com wrote: A hat (maybe swim ca... -- OK Don 2001 ML320 1992 300D 2.5T 1990 300D 2.5T 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.oki... ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 - How to change the PRNDL light in the console?
What do I have to remove to get at this mystery bulb? Not that much. It seems like you're making it more complicated than necessary. Once you get a good look at it and figure out how the bulb carrier pops out, you'll probably say Oh. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
