[MBZ] This...

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
... is pretty cool:

http://htwins.net/scale2/

Dan

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Re: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob

2012-03-14 Thread Rusty Cullens

She needs a new steering too, I'll call her.


Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
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Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
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AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Hendrik  Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 7:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob



Rusty should try and sell her a new gear knob
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1feature=fvwpv=lUxWBBMWOtg

Hendrik
whose knobs look better than that

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Re: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob

2012-03-14 Thread Rich Thomas

And a hood star

--R

On 3/13/12 7:53 PM, Hendrik  Fay wrote:

Rusty should try and sell her a new gear knob
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1feature=fvwpv=lUxWBBMWOtg

Hendrik
whose knobs look better than that

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Re: [MBZ] Computers, hoons and Diesels

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead


Also the question has come up on the Ozbenz forum, as to why the US 
got S class Diesels and just about no one outside of continental 
Europe and the US did. Someone suggested it was due to the average 
fuel consumption legislation from the 70's but I am a bit weary of 
that theory.


You blokes just don't live right.

Not enough of you live beyond your means.  In the US and Japan in the 
80s, lotsa people lived beyond their means.


(semi tongue in cheek)

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[MBZ] Laptop Memory

2012-03-14 Thread MG
I was wondering if anyone has any old laptop memory laying 
around?  I seem to remember that someone had some and before I go 
trying to buy some new I figured I would see if there was any 
used somewhere on the list. I need 2 pcs. of 100 mhz 256 meg 3.3 
volt So-dimm for on old Dell Latitude that I want to fix up for 
my Granddaughter to use. Faster ram would probably also work. I 
don't think the speed, other then if it is too slow, makes much 
of a difference.


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] looks like it can be done

2012-03-14 Thread G Mann
I see the pickers have already high-graded parts from the shell The
price goes up to put it on the road by geometric scale.
Not for me, been there done that.. RIP..
Grant...

On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 6:35 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2900283062.html

 Better call to see if the engine still works


 clay

 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
 POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers






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Re: [MBZ] Laptop Memory

2012-03-14 Thread Fred Moir

Manfred.
If 128mb are of any use, I have two that you may have.
PC100-222-620
Out of a Dell Latitude CPX-J

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 3/14/2012 11:39 AM, MG wrote:
I was wondering if anyone has any old laptop memory laying around?  I 
seem to remember that someone had some and before I go trying to buy 
some new I figured I would see if there was any used somewhere on the 
list. I need 2 pcs. of 100 mhz 256 meg 3.3 volt So-dimm for on old 
Dell Latitude that I want to fix up for my Granddaughter to use. 
Faster ram would probably also work. I don't think the speed, other 
then if it is too slow, makes much of a difference.


Manfred


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[MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread glenn brown

I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough idle 
and smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the idle is 
as smooth as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so there's no 
change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.  Next step?
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
  
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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble
On Mar 14, 2012, at 12:08 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:

 
 I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough 
 idle and smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the 
 idle is as smooth as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so 
 there's no change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.  Next 
 step?

Questions for Glenn. Does the smoke smell like unburnt fuel or coolant? 
Does it only do this when started from dead cold? (I think you answered in the 
affirmative before. I work midnights and am brain dead right now.)
Questions for list. 
I've never had the head off of an OM617. Is it possible that the glow plugs are 
shrouded in carbon and are having no effect?  What are the balls in the 
pre-chamber for? If one was missing, would it cause a problem like this?

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Mitch Haley

glenn brown wrote:

I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough idle and 
smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the idle is as smooth 
as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so there's no change after I 
changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.  Next step?


I forget, have you done a cold power balance test by starting the car and 
cracking open the injector lines one at a time? If so, which cylinders did not 
cause the engine to run worse when you deactivated their injectors?


(as always, keep your hands away from the high pressure fittings when you loosen 
them to avoid a subcutaneous injection of #2 diesel)


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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Scott Ritchey
I haven't followed this thread but ...  When my 82 300SD has same symptoms
the cure was new glow plugs.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of glenn brown
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 1:09 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors


I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough
idle and smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the
idle is as smooth as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so
there's no change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.  Next
step?
 
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
  
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Re: [MBZ] OT - GulagUSA

2012-03-14 Thread Max
Not interesting, his socialist agenda too obvious.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Max
Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

I haven't followed this thread but ...  When my 82 300SD has same
symptoms
the cure was new glow plugs.

Scott


I like Scott's answer.  Other places to look include the delivery valves for 
the affected cylinders.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Max
Also, rack damper bolt?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
I didn't follow this completely, but didn't you have low compression in 4 
5?

Its likely if you had bad injectors there, then they've already done their
damage and its time for a rebuild.

If you suspect heavy carbon build up or stuck rings, drive it and change
the oil frequently.  If things don't improve after a few thousand miles and
several oil changes, you've got some more serious damage.

I'm assuming you've already checked valve clearance and confirmed the glow
plugs are good.  And what lead you do replace only two injectors?  Did you
have them all tested?  Why not replace all of them?

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 1:08 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:


 I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough
 idle and smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the
 idle is as smooth as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so
 there's no change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.
  Next step?

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC

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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble
On Mar 14, 2012, at 3:05 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you suspect heavy carbon build up or stuck rings, drive it and change
 the oil frequently.

Drive_it_like_you_stole_it. Preferably through some mountainous terrain. Every 
day. All day. Or as long as you can. 

Rick
Who still thinks Glenn's problem is glow related...somehow. 

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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble
Welcome back Max. Where were you hiding?

Rick
Sent from my iPhone.

On Mar 14, 2012, at 2:15 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I like Scott's answer.  Other places to look include the delivery valves for 
 the affected cylinders

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[MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use some 
direction:

1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC related 
functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, that is, fan 
speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the AC compressor.

I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power in the 
harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got nothing.

This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier in 
identifying the problem.

If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I would 
expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things like the 
fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as intended, as 
everything else on the car works perfectly.

I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I would put 
B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I don't want to 
smoke the speed sensor in the process.

From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the low 
pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch.  That's an educated 
guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses apart, either.  
There are three wires going to a connector on the top of the compressor, two 
of which go off in a separate harness that heads up under the air cleaner. The 
remaining wire goes to one side of the low pressure switch.  I am assuming the 
two that head into the engine harness are for the speed sensor.

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Max
You're very close, if my 124 diesel knowledge applies.  The KLIMA relay 
compares engine speed to compressor speed to decide if the serpentine belt is 
slipping.  Sounds like that signal has been interrupted.  Could be bad speed 
coil on the compressor, bad KLIMA, or bad engine speed pick-up.  Could also be 
bad clutch on the compressor, or bad PBU.  Hard to track down with out knowing 
which wires connect to what.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
All quite possible, however, I have yet to determine that the MAS relay has 
taken the place of the KLIMA relay (which does not exist on this particular 
chassis.)

That's why I really need a schematic.  With that I could at least pin things 
down...

Thanks!

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 5:16 PM, Max wrote:

 You're very close, if my 124 diesel knowledge applies.  The KLIMA relay 
 compares engine speed to compressor speed to decide if the serpentine belt is 
 slipping.  Sounds like that signal has been interrupted.  Could be bad speed 
 coil on the compressor, bad KLIMA, or bad engine speed pick-up.  Could also 
 be bad clutch on the compressor, or bad PBU.  Hard to track down with out 
 knowing which wires connect to what.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob

2012-03-14 Thread Hendrik Fay
Perhaps one of the listers will take the 220 off her hands and give it a 
good home.


Hendrik
who is trying to get virtualbox up and running

On 15/03/12 00:32, Rich Thomas wrote:

And a hood star

--R

On 3/13/12 7:53 PM, Hendrik  Fay wrote:

Rusty should try and sell her a new gear knob
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1feature=fvwpv=lUxWBBMWOtg

Hendrik
whose knobs look better than that






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Re: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob

2012-03-14 Thread Randy Bennell


Sarah needs more than a knob

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1feature=endscreenv=g0lIEq16eEg

Randy

On 14/03/2012 9:02 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:

And a hood star

--R

On 3/13/12 7:53 PM, Hendrik  Fay wrote:

Rusty should try and sell her a new gear knob
http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1feature=fvwpv=lUxWBBMWOtg

Hendrik
whose knobs look better than that

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead

Read #2 and #3 here
http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm

I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to 
the comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure 
resistance of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 
0 resistance means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what 
the resistance should be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.


You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring 
the voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short 
time, until the system detects the pulley is not turning.


It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe 
they moved the Klima on that model.



OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could 
really use some direction:


1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as 
expected, that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything 
works but the AC compressor.


I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for 
power in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to 
ground and got nothing.


This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, 
but I don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really 
appreciate you forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life 
significantly easier in identifying the problem.


If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as 
I would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of 
things like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be 
working as intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.


I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the 
compressor clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the 
proverbial wind.  I would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of 
what wire is which, and I don't want to smoke the speed sensor in 
the process.


From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through 
the low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. 
That's an educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not 
tearing harnesses apart, either.  There are three wires going to a 
connector on the top of the compressor, two of which go off in a 
separate harness that heads up under the air cleaner. The remaining 
wire goes to one side of the low pressure switch.  I am assuming the 
two that head into the engine harness are for the speed sensor.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I did attempt to check for voltage from the ACC system to the low pressure 
switch and ultimately the compressor clutch, but I turned things on and then 
got over to the connections, so it would have been a good 30 seconds before I 
ever got the Fluke's leads on the connectors.

It's such a small gauge wire, I'm surprised it would provide power to the 
clutch, as it draws a good 3-4 amps, I believe.

I did not attempt to check the resistance of the clutch coil, however, since 
I'm not getting power to  it in the first place, I don't think it's necessarily 
the problem.  I do have the values for it, however (thanks, Wilton!)

Thanks for the suggestions.  I know the 126 chassis ACC well, so I'm not that 
far out of my comfort zone, but this system is definitely different, so 
hopefully someone out there has a diagram...

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance means 
 the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should be, 
 probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but they 
use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.

If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but the 
ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA relay and 
not the MAS.

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance means 
 the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should be, 
 probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 
 OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use 
 some direction:
 
 1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.
 
 Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC related 
 functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, that is, 
 fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the AC 
 compressor.
 
 I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power in 
 the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
 nothing.
 
 This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
 don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
 forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier in 
 identifying the problem.
 
 If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I would 
 expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things like the 
 fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as intended, as 
 everything else on the car works perfectly.
 
 I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
 clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I would 
 put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I don't want 
 to smoke the speed sensor in the process.
 
 From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the low 
 pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an educated 
 guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses apart, 
 either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of the 
 compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up under 
 the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low pressure 
 switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine harness are for the 
 speed sensor.
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Virtualbox

2012-03-14 Thread Fmiser
 Hendrik  Fay wrote:

 Hendrik
 who is trying to get virtualbox up and running

Are your having difficulty with VirtualBox?  Or the guest OS?
My experience with it has been quite good.  USB, serial,
ethernet, and all software I've tried to use work well in a MS
Win guest on my Linux host.

I'm even doing some squirrelly things with networking.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] looks like it can be done

2012-03-14 Thread clay monroe
I am only intent on getting to see how the engine was popped in

clay

On Mar 14, 2012, at 9:06 AM, G Mann wrote:

 I see the pickers have already high-graded parts from the shell The
 price goes up to put it on the road by geometric scale.
 Not for me, been there done that.. RIP..
 Grant...
 
 On Tue, Mar 13, 2012 at 6:35 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2900283062.html
 
 Better call to see if the engine still works
 
 
 clay
 
 1972 220D - Gump - She is green, simple and ran
 1995 E300D - Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
 POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Virtualbox

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
I use VirtualBox both on my Macs and my work PC.  I have several OS' running on 
each without any issues.

What's the problem you're having?

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Fmiser wrote:

 Hendrik  Fay wrote:
 
 Hendrik
 who is trying to get virtualbox up and running
 
 Are your having difficulty with VirtualBox?  Or the guest OS?
 My experience with it has been quite good.  USB, serial,
 ethernet, and all software I've tried to use work well in a MS
 Win guest on my Linux host.
 
 I'm even doing some squirrelly things with networking.
 
 --Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] Laptop Memory

2012-03-14 Thread MG
Thanks Fred, I have one 128mb in there so would only need one 
more as there are only two places to fill. I will wait a bit to 
see if anyone else has any 256mb ones and if not then I will take 
one of yours. I'm trying to run XP so the more memory I can get 
in there the better. May end up having to go back to 98 anyway 
but I hope not.


Manfred




Re: [MBZ] Laptop Memory

Fred Moir
Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:11:25 -0700

Manfred.
If 128mb are of any use, I have two that you may have.
PC100-222-620
Out of a Dell Latitude CPX-J

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread WILTON

Dan,

'Just set you a comp. clutch schematic.  Is it the one you need?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue


I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but 
they use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.


If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but 
the ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA 
relay and not the MAS.


Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:


Read #2 and #3 here
http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm

I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure 
resistance of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 
resistance means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the 
resistance should be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.


You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, 
until the system detects the pulley is not turning.


It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
moved the Klima on that model.



OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really 
use some direction:


1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.

Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, 
that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the 
AC compressor.


I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power 
in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
nothing.


This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but 
I don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate 
you forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly 
easier in identifying the problem.


If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I 
would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things 
like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as 
intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.


I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the 
compressor clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial 
wind.  I would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is 
which, and I don't want to smoke the speed sensor in the process.


From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the 
low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an 
educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses 
apart, either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of 
the compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up 
under the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low 
pressure switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine 
harness are for the speed sensor.


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dan Penoff
Wilton,

It's certainly closer to anything I have seen so far.

What I recall is that the MAS only had four populated sockets (pins) in the 
relay socket, which is why I'm confused by the depiction of at least seven 
connections.

I won't get to see the car again until tomorrow morning, but I'll verify what I 
have against the drawing you sent.  At least that way I might be able to do 
some voltage and continuity checks to narrow things down.

Thanks!

Dan


On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:14 PM, WILTON wrote:

 Dan,
 
 'Just set you a comp. clutch schematic.  Is it the one you need?
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 7:00 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue
 
 
 I have found a reference to the MAS and what it does in the AC manual, but 
 they use that darned breakout box to do the troubleshooting.
 
 If I could find a schematic I could figure this out in short order, but the 
 ones I have been looking at are for older models that use the KLIMA relay 
 and not the MAS.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
 
 Read #2 and #3 here
 http://www.w124performance.com/service/W126/Index/Misc.htm
 
 I think you are right, that  the wire from the low pressure switch to the 
 comp is the clutch power wire.  With it off at the comp, measure resistance 
 of the terminal on the compressor to ground.  Open or near 0 resistance 
 means the coil is bad. (obviously)  I don't know what the resistance should 
 be, probably 1.5 to 3 ohms. is a good coil.
 
 You could also have someone turn on the AC while you are measuring the 
 voltage of that wire to ground.  It should show 12v for a short time, until 
 the system detects the pulley is not turning.
 
 It is possible the everything relay replaced the Klima.  Or maybe they 
 moved the Klima on that model.
 
 
 OK, guys, pile on.  I'm in unfamiliar territory here, and could really use 
 some direction:
 
 1992 300E 2.6, complaint is AC compressor won't come on.
 
 Original complaint was that the #7 fuse was blowing, killing all ACC 
 related functions. Fuse was replaced, and now ACC functions as expected, 
 that is, fan speeds, doors, heat/defrost, etc.  Everything works but the 
 AC compressor.
 
 I shorted out the low pressure switch with no result.  Checked for power 
 in the harness to the low pressure switch in reference to ground and got 
 nothing.
 
 This model has a MAS relay which may or may not play a part in this, but I 
 don't have a schematic, so if anyone does, I would really appreciate you 
 forwarding a copy to me, as that would make my life significantly easier 
 in identifying the problem.
 
 If I pull the MAS relay while the car is running the engine dies, as I 
 would expect.  Since it's supposed to interface with all sorts of things 
 like the fuel pump and other goodies, it appears to be working as 
 intended, as everything else on the car works perfectly.
 
 I have to believe there is a failure in getting a signal to the compressor 
 clutch, but without a diagram I'm swinging in the proverbial wind.  I 
 would put B+ to the clutch, but I'm unsure of what wire is which, and I 
 don't want to smoke the speed sensor in the process.
 
 From what I can glean, it appears that power comes in, goes through the 
 low pressure switch, and then on to the compressor clutch. That's an 
 educated guess based on what I am seeing, but I'm not tearing harnesses 
 apart, either.  There are three wires going to a connector on the top of 
 the compressor, two of which go off in a separate harness that heads up 
 under the air cleaner. The remaining wire goes to one side of the low 
 pressure switch.  I am assuming the two that head into the engine harness 
 are for the speed sensor.
 
 Dan
 ___
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[MBZ] Stupid E320 question for the day

2012-03-14 Thread Mitch Haley

Where do my 1.0L of power steering fluid go in my 210.282 wagon?
I see an SLS reservoir, but not the P/S fluid reservoir.
The only reference I can find in the many books that came with the car is in the 
fluid capacities section (which, oddly enough, makes no mention of the SLS fluid)


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
That is too long.  Hook it up so that you can see the readout, then 
turn on the switch.  the old mechanical VOMS were good for this 
because you'd see the needle start up, then go back to 0.  It will 
only be a blip.


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Re: [MBZ] Laptop Memory

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
I have a new SODIMM, but I can't remember what it is.  I will try to 
dig it out, but it will be mon or tues next week.


Thanks Fred, I have one 128mb in there so would only need one more 
as there are only two places to fill. I will wait a bit to see if 
anyone else has any 256mb ones and if not then I will take one of 
yours. I'm trying to run XP so the more memory I can get in there 
the better. May end up having to go back to 98 anyway but I hope not.


Manfred




Re: [MBZ] Laptop Memory

Fred Moir
Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:11:25 -0700

Manfred.
If 128mb are of any use, I have two that you may have.
PC100-222-620
Out of a Dell Latitude CPX-J

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred

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Re: [MBZ] OT - GulagUSA

2012-03-14 Thread Mountain Man
Max wrote:
 Not interesting, his socialist agenda too obvious.

She was being interviewed.
I agree - a bit socialist.
Beside that, take a bat at what is being said?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] no change after I changed the #4 5 fuel injectors

2012-03-14 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Should'nt all the injectors be balanced?

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 14, 2012, at 4:05 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

I didn't follow this completely, but didn't you have low compression in 4 
5?

Its likely if you had bad injectors there, then they've already done their
damage and its time for a rebuild.

If you suspect heavy carbon build up or stuck rings, drive it and change
the oil frequently.  If things don't improve after a few thousand miles and
several oil changes, you've got some more serious damage.

I'm assuming you've already checked valve clearance and confirmed the glow
plugs are good.  And what lead you do replace only two injectors?  Did you
have them all tested?  Why not replace all of them?

Good luck,
Jaime


On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 1:08 PM, glenn brown g_010...@hotmail.com wrote:


I started and ran my '85 300TD a little while ago and it still has a rough
idle and smokes upon a cold startup, but warms up in 2-3 min. and then the
idle is as smooth as an old diesel will get and the smoking ceases, so
there's no change after I changed the #4  5 fuel injectors yesterday.
Next step?

G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC

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-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Jim Cathey

Compressor clutch coils can go bad, they're in a harsh
environment.  Connectors thereto, also.  But it sounds
KLIMA-ish to me.  The WOT switch can affect the AC too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Laptop memory

2012-03-14 Thread Chris N John
I'm slow reading the need for memory, so mine may not help. Have 2X512 
if they will work in your 'puter? Christy

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Re: [MBZ] Sarah needs a knob

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:40:53 -0400 Rusty Cullens buymbpa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 She needs a new steering too, I'll call her.

She also needs a new hood star.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football 
eliminator pipe would make access much easier.  Are these necessary 
for access, or just a convenience for getting the turbo out?  I am 
going to start on this tomorrow.



Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably 
need to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the 
bracket, and possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big 
deal.


The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with 
strap clamps, easy to manage.


I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

Peter

On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the 
turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting 
plugged when M1 is in the engine.


I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If 
the drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the 
cartridge on a shelf.


Where does the oil feed line come in?

What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the turbo?

Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the 
cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped 
oil leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.


Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I 
have all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or 
months until it gets finished because of the distance involved.


Parts needed:

2 or more drain tube o-rings
2 oil drain gaskets
EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? 
hose? new steel line?)

Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need 
to either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until 
another trip.  No trip is on the horizon until November.


1987 300SDL is the subject.


Dieselhead wrote:
 From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. 
Is that right?


Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive 
evidence of seal failure?




...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil 
under pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor 
housings.


I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if 
the bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals 
would get chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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Re: [MBZ] 300 ACC Issue

2012-03-14 Thread Dave in SoCal
So, no Klima on Dan's model.

The linked post below makes it appear that the MAS may control A/C functions.
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showpost.php?p=126705postcount=13

Post #4 here, says something different:
http://mbworld.org/forums/190e-w201/48220-c-compressor-relay-92-190e-2-6-a.html

Hmmm...

if one of these relays is taking over some Klima functions, I wonder (shooting 
from the hip) if it works like the Klima does on my '85 W123… 
if freon pressure is lost, a pressure switch tells the Klima to turn off the 
compressor solenoid, saving the compressor from damage.

I know they changed the configuration and function of this thing many, many 
times but here's my schematic (all I can find)… maybe it'll jog a memory or 
point to a possibility until the real schematic appears.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GMQYuBJUv3hTB_4vilWnuB_L548h0FhsE9Lwz-quTRM?feat=directlink

Dave
SoCal


For completion, according to the manual the two other functions on a 1985 W123 
Klima are:
(1) when the engine is started, the relay keeps the compressor solenoid off 
until 10 seconds after the engine speed has reached 600 RPM. This improves 
engine speed stabilization after startup.
(2) with engine speed less than 1050 RPM, when the accelerator is floored, the 
compressor solenoid is released until the engine reaches 2150 RPM or the 
accelerator is released. This function is controlled by a microswitch on the 
valve cover.


On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:22 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

 Compressor clutch coils can go bad, they're in a harsh
 environment.  Connectors thereto, also.  But it sounds
 KLIMA-ish to me.  The WOT switch can affect the AC too.
 
 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Brian Toscano
What is the football eliminator pipe?  You don't have to separate the EGR
valve from the pipe it bolts to.  There are big fat o-rings that keep all
those intake pipes together.  You probably won't even need to replace them
unless they were butchered in the past.

But I strongly suggest not bolting anything up on reassembly until you get
all the parts back in place first.  i.e.  Don't bolt parts together until
you have the turbo oil drain pipe in place.  Its such a PITA to undo
everything just to fit something small like that.

It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs with a
post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual parts and
what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for a few weeks...




On Wed, Mar 14, 2012 at 8:19 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 It seems to me that taking off the EGR valve and the football eliminator
 pipe would make access much easier.  Are these necessary for access, or
 just a convenience for getting the turbo out?  I am going to start on this
 tomorrow.



  Oil feed line is on top, under the EGR assembly.  You will probably need
 to also remove the 10 mm screw that holds the line to the bracket, and
 possibly the fitting on the block as well.  Not a big deal.

 The exhaust is connected via some accordioned stainless parts with strap
 clamps, easy to manage.

 I'm guessing your oil consumption will go way down with a new one.

 Peter

 On Mar 12, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

  Is there any way to check the drain without taking the drain or the
 turbo off?  My guess is not.  I can't imagine the drain getting plugged
 when M1 is in the engine.

 I am inclined to  order a turbo cartridge and just change it.  If the
 drain is plugged, I could clean and replace and keep the cartridge on a
 shelf.

 Where does the oil feed line come in?

 What other parts are needed or should be replaced when replacing the
 turbo?

 Is it necessary to take off the exhaust manifold to take out the turbo?

 The * forum had a post where someone said taking off the
 cranckase vent hose decreased pressure in the crankcase and stopped oil
 leaking into the turbo.  Sounds fishy to me on a 603.

 Since it is now functional, I am inclined to leave it alone until I have
 all parts in hand.  If I tear into it, it might be weeks or months until it
 gets finished because of the distance involved.

 Parts needed:

 2 or more drain tube o-rings
 2 oil drain gaskets
 EGR block kit.  (have that at home but forgot to bring it.)
 Whatever it takes to insure the oil feed is reliable...(? gaskets? hose?
 new steel line?)
 Turbo cartridge kit.  (should include necessary parts to change)

 It is wasting probably 3-4 quarts of oil a week currently.  I need to
 either order parts in the morning or postpone the mess until another trip.
  No trip is on the horizon until November.

 1987 300SDL is the subject.

  Dieselhead wrote:

  From no responses, I gather nobody else has had a turbo failure. Is
 that right?

 Is it correct that any oil in the compressor is conclusive evidence of
 seal failure?


 ...or a plugged drain line. If you plug the drain and feed it oil under
 pressure, the oil will get into the turbine/compressor housings.

 I'm pretty sure they don't have contact seals on the shaft, but if the
 bearings wore out and had radial slop the labyrinth seals would get
 chewed too and might let oil into the compressor section.


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[MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
Happi Pi Day!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] This...

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:13:25 -0400 Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 ... is pretty cool:
 
 http://htwins.net/scale2/

Indeed!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:

 It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
 with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
 parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
 a few weeks...

Or take pictures with a digital camera


Craig

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[MBZ] OT: Out of ‘hobby’ class, drones lifting off for personal, commercial use

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2012/mar/14/out-of-hobby-class-drones-lifting-off-for-personal/

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Rick Knoble
 It may help to put the individual bolts and nuts into zip log backs
 with a post it note inside the bag so you can keep track of individual
 parts and what goes where in case you don't get back to reassembly for
 a few weeks...
 
 Or take pictures with a digital camera


Or both :-)

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Fred Moir

Pie are round!

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred


On 3/14/2012 11:03 PM, Craig wrote:

Happi Pi Day!


Craig
   


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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead

Thank you!  Thank you very much!


Happi Pi Day!

Craig


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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread Dieselhead
This is a 603, not a 617.  All US 603s had a football smog crap 
over the top of the exhaust manifold.  This caused problems, and led 
to an extended warranty, where the stealer would replace the football 
with a pipe, and replace the trashed turbo if the football was not 
replaced before it trashed the turbo.


Actually, Andrew's 85 Collyfawnia TD had a football on the 617.


On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:


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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Max
I think you're three years early?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 23:56:26 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I think you're three years early?

Depends on whether you are counting two digits or four.

Every year has a 3.14.

Every century has a 3.14.16.

If you're counting the latter, I'm four years early.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Craig
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 22:45:11 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thank you!  Thank you very much!
 
 Happi Pi Day!

BTW, I just noticed I misspelled happy.

That was not intentional.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Fmiser
 Max wrote:

 I think you're three years early?

The year belongs at the beginning of the string.  ISO8601 date
format is such a good idea.

2012-03-14

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 3.14159265358979323846264338327950288419716939937511

2012-03-14 Thread Fmiser
   Craig wrote:
   
   Happi Pi Day!

  Dieselhead wrote:
 
  Thank you!  Thank you very much!

 Craig then wrote:
 
 BTW, I just noticed I misspelled happy.
 
 That was not intentional.

Be grateful the grammar squad didn't get you!!

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 turbo WAS:smokin SDL

2012-03-14 Thread John Freer
Actually, only the 86 West coast 603's had the football trap oxidizer. All 87's 
had them. 

John

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:44 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is a 603, not a 617.  All US 603s had a football smog crap over the 
 top of the exhaust manifold.  This caused problems, and led to an extended 
 warranty, where the stealer would replace the football with a pipe, and 
 replace the trashed turbo if the football was not replaced before it trashed 
 the turbo.
 
 Actually, Andrew's 85 Collyfawnia TD had a football on the 617.
 
 On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:56:05 -0600 Brian Toscano
 brian.tosc...@gmail.com wrote:
 
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