Re: [MBZ] U.S. beers/ales

[jwreames]

Ommegang==Duvel (as in owned by). 
Good stuff. 
I'm partial to their Three Philosophers blend.. 

Stoudts (Adamstown, PA) Triple is decent, as is "The Brewer's Art" 
"Resurrection Ale" (You can get it fresh and on-tap in Baltimore to boot!) 

"Thirst Dog Brewing Co" makes a decent Imperial Stout that they call "Siberian 
Night" ... 

- Original Message - 
From: "glenn brown"  
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 6:48:27 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [MBZ] U.S. beers/ales 


So many of the U.S. beers/ales can't compete with the Belgians that I've 
avoided most and have only had a couple worth mentioning: Ommegang 
(Cooperstown, NY) and Victory Weizen Bock (Downingtown, PA). My desert island 
choice: Duvel or St Feuillien Blonde. 



G. M. Brown 

Brevard, NC 

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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1Gb fibre channel

[jwreames]

Fibre Channel isn't LAN stuff, its SAN (Storage Area Network) stuff... The 
physical layer for it is the same (or close to) that of Gigabit Ethernet, and 
is typically over multimode fiber (50/125u), but the upper layers, those that 
are exposed to the computer, are more closely related to SCSI. 

In THEORY you could PROBABLY do some sort of networking with them, IF you had a 
device driver that supported being both a target and an initiator... but then 
in theory you can do dentistry at home... ;) 

I'd be interested in them if I had money (i.e. if I hadn't ... unexpectedly and 
involuntarily become a man of leisure... on December 10th)... 

-j. 



- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey"  
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"  
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 5:04:24 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: 1Gb fibre channel 

On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 11:57:58 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond 
 wrote: 

> Just offhand is anybody on the list interested in any old 1Gb fibre 
> channel HBAs or cables? 
> 
> I'm cleaning out a storeroom at work and found a huge amount of old 
> stuff, emulex cards, copper GBICs and copper cables 
> 
> Just ping me and its yours for shipping, hate to throw this stuff away. 

What kind of fiber do the fibre channel HBAs use? Are they standalone 
devices, or do they need to be plugged into something? I'd like to extend 
our ethernet, but I don't like running Cat V cables outside. 


Craig 

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Re: [MBZ] OT HDMI cable

[jwreames]

> Digits are different from waves. Digits either get there or 
> not, waves can get wavier. 

Yabut the digits are transmitted over [more or less square] 
waves, so there can still be issues caused by cables, especially since HDMI 
uses frequencies of up to 340MHz, with total bandwidth in the 5-10GB/s range, 
so you can still run into issues with skewing, crosstalk, attenuation and 
signal reflection... 

HDMI uses a differential data transmission strategy, wherein two wires are used 
for each bit, and at any moment in time, one will be positive and the other 
will be negative. The two wires will simultaneously swap polarity to 
differentiate between a 1 and a 0 . 

Skewing is the condition where there is a difference in the delay in transition 
of one of the wires (from + to - or - to +) in a differential pair, which can 
cause a bit to be mis-detected or undetected (discarded). 

Crosstalk is when the signal on one differential pair influences the signal on 
other pair(s) (kind of like a linear transformer...). Since the underlying 
waveform is a square wave, which have lots of harmonics in the edges of the 
waveform, it may be more likely to have noise introduced into other pairs... 
leading to bitstream errors. 

Sufficient attenuation can result in the difference between the two wires in 
the differential pair falling below the detection threshold, causing the signal 
to become corrupted or ignored. 

Signal reflection is caused by impedance mismatches between the cable and the 
terminating device(s). 

Anyhow, these things are all bad since HDMI has no error detection/correction. 

This can be very bad, since the standard requres that a crypto handshake 
wherein the display is authenticated by the player/AV source prior to the 
transmission of each and every frame (30x a second for interlaced, 60x a second 
for progressive...). 

Flipped or missing bits in the data stream can cause the crypto handshake to 
fail, which will prevent the transmission of that video frame, and possibly 
generate errors indicating that the display device is not authorized. 

Hope this helps 
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Re: [MBZ] Buying freeze is back on

[jwreames]

Yep, sure enough does sound interesting... I've got time to read the list 
again... LOTS of time to read the list :( 

so much for having a paycheck to b***h about! 

-j. 

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin"  
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"  
Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2008 5:52:52 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Buying freeze is back on 

That sounds interesting. I will holler offlist asap. 

BTW, I just got a call from my sales manager. Figured they wanted to 
chew me out or something but I have not done jack all day, just been 
sitting at home applying for jobs. No, she just wanted to know if I as 
coming to the xmas party they were having at somebodys house. 

I then asked how it went at the dealers they had to go see to give them 
the bad new. My big dealer I have (the Mazda dealer) was really upset 
and she said like they were talking about trying to find me a position 
there. They didnt come right out and say it, but it was sort of 
implied. So, I will be by there tomorrow, will see what happens. 

LWB250 wrote: 
> Kaleb, 
> 
> One business that is nearly recession-proof is the generator business. Add to 
> that the limited number of people that are in it and you can pretty much find 
> a job anywhere you look. I can name at least 10 major companies that I know 
> in the business that have standing openings for people. 
> 
> You have the basic engine experience, and if you can do some basic electrical 
> troubleshooting, you'll be fine. Most of the companies I know are more 
> interested in people with foundational knowledge that they can train rather 
> than experienced techs - the experienced folks are great, but they come at a 
> high price tag and can be difficult to "change" depending on the area they 
> originally started out in. 
> 
> Contact me off-list and we'll chat about this in more detail. I've got free 
> long distance at the house, so I can give you a call on my dime. I am almost 
> positive that there are a couple of generator guys in your area that are 
> currently looking for techs. 
> 
> I assure you that if you get involved in the business you'll be employable 
> for life - when the economy goes in the dumper, our business gets better. 
> That being said, things are a little slow right now, but I would attribute 
> that more to the time of year, which is historically slow, than the economy. 
> 
> Dan 
> 
> 
> --- On Wed, 12/10/08, Wonko the Sane  wrote: 
> 
>> From: Wonko the Sane  
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Buying freeze is back on 
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"  
>> Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2008, 10:59 PM 
>> The real money these days is in the trades, such as being a 
>> plumber. 
>> 
>> You are never downsized when it comes to clogged toilets or 
>> slow drains. 
>> These skills are recession proof. Even in the midst of an 
>> severe economic 
>> depression, each citizen still has to poop each morning and 
>> would like to 
>> flush afterwards. A man will go a month in arrears on his 
>> mortgage if the 
>> toilet won't flush and he has to decide between the 
>> plumber or the mortgage. 
>> 
>> 
>> My two university degrees are worth little more than the 
>> paper they are 
>> printed on when it comes to finding a job, except to say 
>> that my current job 
>> required a four year degree to even get to the interview 
>> process. [Sad, 
>> given that our daughter is just now finishing up her four 
>> year degree @ 
>> $35K a year.] 
>> 
>> On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:42 PM, Jim Cathey 
>>  wrote: 
>> 
>>> A college/university is not a trade school. If you 
>> need _training_, 
>>> go elsewhere. If you want an _education_, that is, 
>> training in how 
>>> to think, reason, research, etc., take on a college 
>> degree at a good 
>>> facility. If you want to learn how to change fans, 
>> RAM, and power 
>>> supplies, find a tech school. 
>>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
>  
> 
> 
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> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 
89 300E, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D x2, 
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 
http://www.okiebenz.co

Re: [MBZ] Tell me why I shouldn't buy this car

[jwreames]

>From what I understand, it is something you need a trained eye to spot, as it 
>rusts UNDER the sealant and then pops off.  There can be VERY little warning 
>otherwise. It happens even on dealer-maintained cars, and when one pops off, 
>they usually go replace both of them.

Of course you pobably want/need a suspension workover/alignment after...

-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> John Freer wrote: 
> 
>  
> 
> "I think you mean a 210."   
> 
>  
> 
> You are right. I meant 210.  I looked the car over for the rust issue -
> the shock towers show no sign of rust.  I did a little research and
> found cases of rust problems in the 97-99 models. But not in the 1996.
> I wonder if something changed between models.  I do like the fit and
> finish of the 124 more.  Perhaps I can find a nice 95 124 special
> edition with all the extras including the traction control (or whatever
> they call it).  
> 
>  
> 
> Donald H. Snook
> 
> 1990 300SEL 137K http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=221355344
> 
>  
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Repair Manuals Online for W126's

[jwreames]

I have a 2 cd set where the CD labels look like 126 speedometers.  That is VERY 
useful; however some jobs are not all there; I think om617 head 
removal/installation is missing one page, as an example.

-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "Walt Lasher" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   ** I bought one for $9.95 through e-bay, I figure ten bucks,
> what could I loose.  Well, FORGET IT.
>   It doesn't have much more than what comes in the book which comes
> with the car. 
> I would be very skeptical of any Maint. CD unless you know
> someone who has one.
> 
> Walt Lasher
> Seattle
> W140  S350
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Re: [MBZ] When Gump was hot stuff

[jwreames]

actually no -s, since web servers can take a disliking to symbolic links. These 
were hard links

 -- Original message --
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> On Fri, 04 May 2007 23:16:08 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > 1999 E300 Turbodiesel
> > 
> > ln = unix command for link. Basically I made a second directory entry to
> > point to the same cunk of data (until one or the other is modified, then
> > they become two completely separate files...)
> 
> As in ln -s, I presume. I just didn't recognize what it was in the
> context.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] When Gump was hot stuff

[jwreames]

1999 E300 Turbodiesel

ln = unix command for link. Basically I made a second directory entry to point 
to the same cunk of data (until one or the other is modified, then they become 
two completely separate files...)
 -- Original message --
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> On Fri, 04 May 2007 22:50:29 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > 
> > Do'h. JPG is in caps. autospellcheck musta case-changed it on me. well a
> > little ln action fixes that!
> > 
> >  -- Original message --
> > From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > On Fri, 04 May 2007 20:52:05 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > > 
> > > > (The photos are at http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290003.jpg and
> > > > http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290004.jpg )
> 
> Yup, the "ln action" fixed it. BTW, what's "ln action"?
> 
> And what kind of Benz is it?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] When Gump was hot stuff

[jwreames]

Do'h. JPG is in caps. autospellcheck musta case-changed it on me. well a little 
ln action fixes that!

 -- Original message --
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> On Fri, 04 May 2007 20:52:05 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > (The photos are at http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290003.jpg and
> > http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290004.jpg )
> 
> 
> All I get is:
> 
> No such document"
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] When Gump was hot stuff

[jwreames]

Looks pretty spry. Love the "Air Time"

Lotsa body roll tho. (The newer ones hardly roll at all. I have a couple of 
photos of Laura driving Frantz on the skidpad  recently. I dunno the speed she 
was at (I didn't look at the speedo when I was driving.), but I know it set off 
"Low Oil" (with the engine at max) and "Low washer water" ...) 

BTW I saw a 280SL at the same time (circa 62-67?) It was pretty hot stuff. I 
was suprised!

(The photos are at http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290003.jpg and 
http://ns1.2tough.com/~jreames/P4290004.jpg ) ... It was squealing around on 
the edge of traction in those photos. If opushed any more, it experienced a 
departure as ESP kicked in.

-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Love that clip. Have watched it several times. The crash sequences look like 
> it 
> stands up pretty well.
> 
> Randy
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Redghost
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 2:21 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] When Gump was hot stuff
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klu1hHQA_rU
> 
> Old timers will like this little video.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
> 
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Im off

[jwreames]

Umm okay, sure. I want to know just one thing; Where are you getting whatever 
you are smoking when you tell the banned list to behave?

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, Okiebenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Leaving now for far northern IL, north of chicago, 1 mile from WI 
> border. Be back tomorrow. Until then, behave. 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 
> (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 
> 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2, 
> 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> 
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Sounds like they have them in a seires sort of arrangement, one that is small 
for off-idle and one that is larger for the mid-high range. They probably pop 
the wastegate/vanes to reduce the load on the small turbo as the larger one 
picks up.  You can PROBABLY do it without too many sensors (straight 
pressure/vac control), as I think it is nothing new under the sun, but we all 
know that is not how things are done these days. What did Scotty say in Star 
Trek 3?  I think it was along the lines of "The more they overtake the 
plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the works".  I think they have forgotten 
Occam's Razor and the KISS principle.

But then the service engineers would starve if they weren't powerchoke diesels. 
 (I know, they have been pretty good since they fixed the EGR valves, but I bet 
they still havent moved the return line to the opposite end of the rail from 
the supply... Makes them REALLY fun to bleed)

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Kevin Kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I sure hope they didn't screw it up! 
> (Ala Ford's 6.0) 
> 
> Ford recently came out with a 6.4L powerstroke Diesel with two turbos, one 
> to increase off idle performance and the other to increase mid to high RPM 
> performance. That sounds like too many sensors for me! 
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 
> 1983 300sD 267K miles, Ursula 
> 
> 
> ___ 
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Re: [MBZ] Golly, I hope I'm not on crack

[jwreames]

Rusty is the man for that. New ones are pretty darn cheap. You just unscrew the 
"nut" right around the mast and raise the antenna until it falls out and you 
don't get any more "tail"... all you have to do then is insert the new antenna 
tail and lower it until you can screw in the "nut" Oh yeah, and spray a 
heavy paper towel with good (ie CRC, not gunk/solder-seal etc) silicone spray 
and wipe down the antenna when fully extended every 6 mos or so 

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> An antenna mast - whatever it would take to simply replace the mast and not 
> worry about the motor. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Thunderbird nitpick
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lets see,... seems to be working for me,... (Thunderbird version 
1.5.0.10) on a Intel MacBook (OS X 10.4.8).
test:

one blank line ^


two lines ^


cheers!
e


John Robbins wrote:
> Alright...  does anyone else have this problem?  When I write an email 
> in Thunderbird I'll have one blank line between my paragraphs, but when 
> it sends them out there aren't any!  Then when I put two lines between 
> each paragraph it sends out two linesI'm guessing that it might 
> have something to do with HTML vs Text email? 
>
> Makes me want to go pack to PINE again...  if it did junkmail filtering 
> (or I wasn't too lazy to setup the pre-mailbox *nix filters) I'd be 
> using it again. 
>
> Thanks!!
> John

[snippage]

Re: [MBZ] $250 1985 300SD

[jwreames]

Maryland registration is expensive ($180/2yrs?), but ALL diesels are exempt 
from emissions tests in MD (period).  Unfortunately we have mandatory 
insurance, you you pay out at least one orifice for that.  At least we dont 
have to pay sales tax (yet) on the registration, or an annual property tax 
(yet) on the vehicle itself (like say... certain areas of Virginia)
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Registration on my Benz is <$30 a year 
> 
> That's about what it is here in Oregon no matter what car/truck you drive. 
> RV's go by the length at $6.00 per foot IIRC. Emissions are only tested in 
> a few areas, unfortunately, one is where I live. There are no vehicle 
> inspections though. I Guarantee that any real estate of anywhere near the 
> caliber you have there in Iowa will cost me at least $400K, perhaps 
> $450K-475K if the house is over 2000 SqFt . I have nearly 2000 Sq.Ft of 
> house, 4 bed, 2.5 baths, .22 acre lot on a cul-de-sac, 2 car garage not 
> really big enough in which to work on a car, 4 car driveway which is only 
> about 2-2.5 cars and an RV plus room for a 18' boat or a car stuffed 
> alongside the garage, pool/hot tub, and it will be newly painted all 
> throughout the interior with new carpeting and vinyl flooring in the 
> kitchen, baths and the garage entry/laundry area. That will fetch nearly 
> $370K although it cost $241K just two years ago when I bought it. 
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 
> 1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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If there is I'm pretty sure they are flown by El Al. =)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300Dt "Gerta"
1999 E300Dt "Hans"
1999 E300Dt "Frantz"
-- Original message -- 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Harry wrote: 
> 
> Didn't know there was a such thing as a perfectly good airplaine 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: New Euro terror alerts

[jwreames]

Don't get me started about homeland security theater... or the KGB (literally: 
committee for state security)... or any comparisons ;) 

I think it is humorous that people are being turned back at the canadian border 
for having criminal records (ie someone who had a youthful indescretion of 
shoplifting 30 years ago...) ... thanks to the better communication between 
countries due to DHS mandate.

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> IMO, the whole Homeland Security operation has turned out to be a giant 
> boondoggle and waste of people and national resources. While the events of 
> 9/11 were indeed tragic and an atrocity, our USA knee-jerk reaction has not 
> only been ineffective, it also amounts to giving the bad guys a "win", as we 
> no longer have a lot of the freedoms we had before that event. 
> And if anyone has traveled out of the country in the last year or so, take 
> note that we are now being charged a stiff "entry fee" in many countries, in 
> a blatant tit for tat response to what we have done to USA visitors. And 
> passports for all to visit Canada! The laws of un-intended consequences 
> should be reviewed by all in our capitol before they go on these crusades. 
> The loss of lives on that September day in 2001 is a small fraction of what 
> we lose every year on our highways, yet no one seems to care much about 
> that. When was the last time a teen driver was required to actually 
> demonstrate real driving ability to get a license?? 
> 
> Werner 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Mitch Haley" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 6:38 AM 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: New Euro terror alerts 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > Hendrik Riessen wrote: 
> >> 
> >> If it wasn't so sad it would be hilarious. Perhaps they could make a 
> >> sitcom 
> >> out of the workings of the CIA and the other government agencies that 
> >> love 
> >> to burn up taxpayer money whilst having very little to show for it. 
> > 
> > The CIA's training and arming of Bin Laden has a big smoking hole in the 
> > ground in New York to show for it. 
> > 
> >> I have read rumours that the CIA doesn't want to find Osama because he 
> >> has 
> >> too much dirt on them, this probably stems from keeping "enemy 
> >> combatants" 
> >> in legal limbo down there in Cuba. 
> > 
> > This probably because they trained him and financed his efforts against 
> > the 
> > Russians in Afganistan so many years ago. 
> > 
> > Soon after September 2001, public service announcements on USA television 
> > told us "Do you want to finance international terrorism? If you buy 
> > illegal 
> > drugs, you probably already have". The very first time I saw it, I thought 
> > "...If you pay federal taxes, you definitely already have". 
> > I always wanted to record that PSA, overdub the soundtrack, burn it to 
> > DVD, 
> > and mail it to 500 TV stations to see how many of them put it on the air 
> > w/o 
> > watching it first. 
> > 
> > Mitch. 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
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I'd su

Re: [MBZ] Capacitors for clocks, Elect. vacuum valves

[jwreames]

You want to stay the same capacitance. You can go up in voltage, but higher 
voltage is usually equated with a physically larger device (at the same 
capacitance value). Going lower on the voltage can result in eversion of the 
capacitor... 
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

> 
> In a message dated 2/27/2007 1:41:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> 
> JIM; is it you can go higher on voltage or capacitance?; or both, I 
> forgot?/; thanks, Steve 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve, 
> 
> Capacitance should be held in a narrow range to the original rating, and 
> should definitely be DC if DC and AC if AC. Voltage is a measure of the 
> insulating qualities of the capacitor and higher would fine, though at some 
> point 
> you will be paying up for the extra, unnecessary quality 
> 
> Regards, The Other Jim 
> 
> Jim Friesen 
> Phoenix AZ 
> 79 300SD, 264 K miles 
> 98 ML 320, 147 K miles 
> 
> 


**
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> email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at 
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> ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Golly, I hope I'm not on crack
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So what is your user name?
BillR
- Original Message - 
From: "V Layton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:26 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Golly, I hope I'm not on crack


> Hello all,
>
> I know I'm not much of participating member of this list, but I do 
> regularly
> check in on the messages and see what you're all up to, and enjoy reading
> many of your comments about various stuff.
>
> I guess I wanted to announce I've had to enter the eBay ring, and I've 
> found
> some of you guys out there too.  I know you guys tend to be pretty 
> critical
> of various eBay listings, which, I must say you guys find some good
> laughable ones!  But, sometimes I can't always figure what it is about 
> some
> postings that qualify them as "crack"
>
> So, I hope I'm not "on crack."  I try to be accurate but may make little
> errors, and hopefully I reflect some competance out there.
>
> If you find my listings, you may see some prices are on the high side, due
> to being new, and over valuing the parts.  I can't utilize Buy It Now yet
> and try to avoid reserves for the most part.  But I also have some fine 
> hard
> to find pieces I think deserve a premium.  Well that's the free-market for
> you.
>
> I'll refrain from a totally shameless plug with a link to my eBay 
> auctions,
> but wanted to establish a good repor with this group, as it seems to me if 
> I
> can gain some credit in your eagle eyes, I must be doing ok.  (and
> crack-free!)
>
> Regards all,
>
> Your W123 friend,
>
> Vince
> Club 123D President
> http://www.club123d.org
>
> PS My Club IS cooking along, (too much too fast actually, but nonetheless
> exhilerating for me) and we have 3 events planned in St. Louis this year, 
> I
> don't know if anyone cares to be updated on my progress, I don't want to 
> be
> a pest...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> If you recieved this e

Re: [MBZ] New Euro terror alerts

[jwreames]

If you mean "having jets stream out your nostrils" when you say "spit", then 
I'm right there with you :)

Oh well, thats one way to clean your sinuses!
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> No doubt there..I almost spit coffee all over my laptop.:>) 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Capacitors for clocks, Elect. vacuum valves
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In a message dated 2/27/2007 1:41:36 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

JIM; is  it you can go higher on voltage or capacitance?; or both, I
forgot?/;  thanks, Steve



Steve,
 
Capacitance should be held in a narrow range to the original rating, and  
should definitely be DC if DC and AC if AC.  Voltage is a measure of the  
insulating qualities of the capacitor and higher would fine, though at some  
point 
you will be paying up for the extra, unnecessary quality
 
Regards,  The Other Jim  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles

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email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free from AOL at 
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Re: [MBZ] Mac G3

[jwreames]

The Pioneer drives seem to do them all (the DV-109 is used as the "superdrive" 
in Macs (you can get it from other world computing for $30 without 
faceplate!)), and the Plextor drives (at least through the PX-716, before Benq 
made them) will do them all.
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> DVD or CD? You've mentioned both. There are four different writeable 
> CD blanks out there (ignoring speed), and five blank DVD's. (CD-R, 
> CD+R, 
> CD-RW, CD+RW, DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW, DVD+RW, DVD-RAM.) It is a rare 
> drive that can cope with anything approaching all of them. The Macs, at 
> least ours, seem to be able to cope with almost anything. But that's a 
> function of the installed drive, not the Mac itself. 
> 
> -- Jim 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] New Euro terror alerts
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No doubt there..I almost spit coffee all over my laptop.:>)

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] New Euro terror alerts


> You both owe me new keyboards!
> -j.
> -- Original message -- 
> From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>> Aaah yes and the Americans have gone from "getting the CIA to meddle in
>> other countries politics" to " shoot first and ask questions later", the 
>> US
>> of A also has two more levels left. They are "carpet bombing from a great
>> height" and "nuke the f...s back to the stoneage".
>>
>> Obviously Australia is not one to miss out on the fun and has increased 
>> it's
>> security level from "she'll be right" to "hide your beers" with the two
>> levels remaing being "don't think we'll be inviting them over for a 
>> barby"
>> and "those bloody drongos are looking for a fight, if they don't pull 
>> their
>> heads in by the time I've drained this stubby.watch out"
>>
>> - Original Message - 
>> From:
>> To:
>> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 2:13 PM
>> Subject: [MBZ] New Euro teror alerts
>>
>>
>> Subject: New European terror alerts
>>
>> The English are feeling the pinch in relation to recent terrorist threats
>> and have raised their security level from "Miffed" to "Peeved."
>>
>> Soon, though, security levels may be raised yet again to "Irritated" or 
>> even
>> "A Bit Cross." Londoners have not been "A Bit Cross" since the blitz in 
>> 1940
>> when tea supplies all but ran out. Terrorists have been re-categorized 
>> from
>> "Tiresome" to a "Bloody Nuisance." The last time the British issued a
>> "Bloody
>> Nuisance" warning level was during the great fire of 1666.
>>
>> Also, the French government announced yesterday that it has raised its
>> terror alert level from "Run" to "Hide." The only two higher levels in
>> France are
>> "Surrender" and "Collaborate." France's raised terror alert level was
>> precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed the country's "white flag"
>> factory,
>> effectively paralyzing the country's military capability.
>>
>> It's not only the Engli

Re: [MBZ] New Euro terror alerts

[jwreames]

You both owe me new keyboards!
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Aaah yes and the Americans have gone from "getting the CIA to meddle in 
> other countries politics" to " shoot first and ask questions later", the US 
> of A also has two more levels left. They are "carpet bombing from a great 
> height" and "nuke the f...s back to the stoneage". 
> 
> Obviously Australia is not one to miss out on the fun and has increased it's 
> security level from "she'll be right" to "hide your beers" with the two 
> levels remaing being "don't think we'll be inviting them over for a barby" 
> and "those bloody drongos are looking for a fight, if they don't pull their 
> heads in by the time I've drained this stubby.watch out" 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 2:13 PM 
> Subject: [MBZ] New Euro teror alerts 
> 
> 
> Subject: New European terror alerts 
> 
> The English are feeling the pinch in relation to recent terrorist threats 
> and have raised their security level from "Miffed" to "Peeved." 
> 
> Soon, though, security levels may be raised yet again to "Irritated" or even 
> "A Bit Cross." Londoners have not been "A Bit Cross" since the blitz in 1940 
> when tea supplies all but ran out. Terrorists have been re-categorized from 
> "Tiresome" to a "Bloody Nuisance." The last time the British issued a 
> "Bloody 
> Nuisance" warning level was during the great fire of 1666. 
> 
> Also, the French government announced yesterday that it has raised its 
> terror alert level from "Run" to "Hide." The only two higher levels in 
> France are 
> "Surrender" and "Collaborate." France's raised terror alert level was 
> precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed the country's "white flag" 
> factory, 
> effectively paralyzing the country's military capability. 
> 
> It's not only the English and French that are on a heightened level of 
> alert. 
> Italy has also increased the alert level from "Shout Loudly and Excitedly" 
> to 
> "Elaborate Military Posturing." Two more levels remain: "Ineffective Combat 
> Operations" and "Change Sides." 
> 
> The Germans also increased their alert state from "Disdainful Arrogance" to 
> "Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs." They also have two higher 
> levels: 
> "Invade a Neighbor" and "Lose." 
> 
> Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual, and the only 
> threat 
> they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels. 
> 
> The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. 
> These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so that the new Spanish 
> Navy 
> can get a really good look at the old Spanish Navy." 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Ball joint replacement

[jwreames]

The sway bar bushings are THE WORST. Figure at least 8-10 hours work to do them 
alone because of their position (underneath all of the 
electronics/fusebox/brake booster that are between the firewall and noise 
panel).  The caster bushings MAY require a press (the manual says to knock them 
out with a plastic hammer, I argue that it was a mistranslation and they meant 
plastique (see figure C4)); I took them to a mechanic who told me he was afraid 
that it was going to break his 25 ton press; they finally came out by the 
rubber surrounds shearing.  The rest is pretty straightforward, you will want 
some assorted large sockets/pieces of pipe, a couple of various sizes of BFH, a 
large vise or medium sized press.  You WILL need to take the ball joints to a 
mercedes mechanic to have them PROPERLY pressed in.  They will knock right out 
with a 3lb hammer and an appropriate driver.  Make sure to pb-blaster the UCA-> 
sway bar bolts a day or two prior to removal. IIRC, I removed the LCA bushings 
by using a large drill bit to drill through one of the "cap" bushings on the 
end so that I could get on the "tube" that was in the middle bushing-- I then 
pressed out (using a BFH and a large bolt as a drift) the center bushing, which 
in turn pushed out the other "cap" bushing.  I then flipped it over and knocked 
out the (drilled) cap bushing.

Don't use soap on the two support bushings for the caster brackets. They will 
squeeze right back out. I used CRC silicone spray with no apparent ill effects. 
 Other sprays (ie liquid wrench) contain stuff which WILL damage the rubber. 
The CRC MAY, but did not seem to. YMMV. You will need some appropriate 
washers/pieces of pipe/large sockets so that you preload those bushings when 
you press them back in. You can measure (CtC) the old tie rods and set the new 
ones to the same length.
You will need a re-alignment. if it is any distance, you may want to have it 
towed. If it isnt too far, IIRC you can "ballpark" the toe-in by driving the 
car 6 ft forward and measuring the spacing on the front of the tires vs the 
rear and setting it approx 1/8" narrower at the front. (or is that the rear?).  
I would also recommend cleaning the area where the LCA mounting bolts go and 
then spraying it with a contrasting color of paint to give a "guide" as to the 
position of the bolts upon reinstall (they have eccentric washers on them.)  It 
may be helpful to only do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a 
guide.  It is important to inspect the springs for cracks, as it is not unheard 
of (but is not common) for springs to break (and have large pieces fling about 
with great force)  upon compression. Make sure there is a clear path from the 
wheel housing outwards when compressing them (just in case).  From a safety POV 
it is worthwhile to arrange to turn the compressor fr
om the front of the vehicle just in case. Mercedes springs are EXTREMELY potent 
and will maim/kill you if given half of a chance. If one gets loose on you and 
does not hurt you... well you will be rushing off to change clothes at the very 
least.

 It is worthwhile to just replace the tie rod assemblies vs the ends from a 
cost/effort POV. IIRC my parts list was:

-shock bump stops (2)
-LCA bushings (2x sets)
-LCA mounting bolts (2x)
-Lower ball joints (2pcs) (lemforder, not TRW)
-Bushing for Caster rod to LCA. 2 sets
-UCA assemblies (include the mounting bushings)
-UCA -> sway bar bushing (4pcs)
-Upper spring seat pads/shims (count the "nubs" on your old ones before 
ordering; they are a couple of places on the rim of it and look like the  umm 
"teats" left over from injection molding. They are not; they are there to 
identify the thickness.) 2pcs.
-Caster bushings (2x)
-Front and rear caster braket mount bushings (2x each)
-Left and right tie rod
-Center link
-Steering damper
-Idler arm bushing kit
-Wheel bearing kits (2x)
-MERCEDES seals for hubs. the ones in the kit were not of comparable quality by 
far. This MAY have changed.
-Tube(s) of mercedes wheel bearing grease (neon green stuff)
-blue loc-tite.
-can of black paint to repaint all the parts such as LCA's, steering knuckles 
and brake rotor shields. (optional)

You may want to do shocks.

Front brake rotors (if your old ones are iffy)

You will want the appropriate pages from the manual, as certain things (ex: LCA 
bushings which are oval) must be inserted in a certain manner.

Total parts cost was $1000 (including rotors/shocks) or so about 3-4 years ago. 
It is well worth it IMHO. This was for an 84 SD, but should be pretty much the 
same for any 126.

Oh-- I hope you have thin hands; fat hands(as opposed to merly large ones) will 
have a tough time getting in under the master cylinder/booster to remove and 
insert the upper bolt.

I didn't take pictures as I have a decentish memory, so I can remember where 
each bolt came from 6 mos later after taking it apart.

BTW I suspect some parts of this post belong on banned ;)
-j.
--
1984 300S

Re: [MBZ] Ball Joint Replacement (John & Kevin)

[jwreames]

I can vouch to that as well. you have to remove the lower spring seat to gain 
access to the bolt securing it.

BTW replacing all the rubber/bushings/ball joints/tie rod ends etc makes the 
car handle SWEET... like a new barge :) 

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Very rarely the track rod (aka brake support rod) BEARING on the 
> control arm will go bad. Requires removal of the control arm to fix, 
> and they are expensive. Usually that noise is the bushing on the 
> firewall end, but if you've replaced them, all that's left is a bad 
> bearing or a bad control arm bushing. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT for military types
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Bill - I'm sure that your daughter will, from time to time, get "cabin 
fever" and want to get to more civilization, such as Anchorage, or perhaps 
even Seattle.  It seems most Alaska residents get that itch from time to 
time.
Probably the most important thing to remember is that you have to be 
prepared for Mother Nature.  The winters can be very un-forgiving - 
experienced residents don't go out in their cars in winter without extra 
clothing, some food, fuel, a way to make heat (candles are OK), and a means 
of signaling for help.
"Coasties" know the need for preparedness better than most when it comes to 
water, and PW Sound and the Gulf of Alaska can be very rough.  But the way 
out of Valdez by road requires a drive into the interior, where the 
temperatures can get to -70 F in winter! (a good thing to consider is 
synthetic lubes in transmissions, differentials, besides engines.)
When we were there in the early 70s, I saw one greenhorn from the lower 48 
have problems with the first cold snap (-30F), where his 4 cylinder '60s 
Scout engine started, but didn't have enough power to turn the wheels as the 
diff had solid, frozen lube in it.
But the scenery is beyond description and worth every moment we spent there. 
I hope they enjoy as much of it as they can get to - the Kenai, Denali, the 
interior, etc.  Our entire family wanted to go back there, but economic 
realities and family concerns kept us from moving back.   Its still #1 for 
us in the USA!

Werner
'83SD
'90 D

- Original Message - 
From: "BillR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Cc: "Kade and Dania Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 6:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT for military types


> Thanks Werner - It is helpful for us to know a bit about where the kids -
> and our next grandchild - will be.  They will be living in base housing.
> There are 28 buildings in a block not very far from the ocean, but hard to
> tell from a look at 'Google Earth' how high it is.  The sad thing is that 
> I
> can't get the boy interested in .
> MB diesels - he seems fixated on rebuilding 60's American cars and trucks.
> I guess it could be worse/
> BillR
> Jacksonville FL
> 1981 300SD  285k miles

Re: [MBZ] Power loss Repair Manual

[jwreames]

Replace the fuel filters (both primary and secondary) as well as the air 
filter...
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "Susan Meintzschel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I have to floor the pedal to get going specialy up hill at 60mph and over 
> the car runs perfect 300D 2.5 5 cyl 1992 Diesel . Perhaps some one knowsn.I 
> am looking for a paper Repair Manual for the same car. Thanks Max 
> 
> _ 
> Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month. 
> Intro*Terms http://www.NexTag.com 
> 
> 
> ___ 
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EBay 220084576595 MAY start you on the BODY. You will still need the engine 
manual.

You will be better to get a CD and print the sections as you need them. 

-- Original message -- 
From: "Susan Meintzschel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I have to floor the pedal to get going specialy up hill at 60mph and over 
> the car runs perfect 300D 2.5 5 cyl 1992 Diesel . Perhaps some one knowsn.I 
> am looking for a paper Repair Manual for the same car. Thanks Max 
> 
> _ 
> Mortgage rates as low as 4.625% - Refinance $150,000 loan for $579 a month. 
> Intro*Terms http://www.NexTag.com 
> 
> 
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Subject: [MBZ] Still a horrible creak going over speed
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Re: [MBZ] Ball Joint Replacement (John & Kevin)

[jwreames]

upper control arm? I had one fail in <30k.  What about the caster bushings? (at 
the back of the brake support rod)

-- Original message -- 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> We have replaced all bushings, ball joints, shocks, mounts, tie rod ends, 
> strut rod mounts, etc. but there is still a horrible creak going over speed 
> bumps (more so when the weather is cold). 1985 300CD, otherwise 
> mechanically perfect. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 2/22/07, Jim Cathey wrote: 
> > 
> > > clogged power steering filter a few years ago which made a sort of 
> > > groaning 
> > > sound on turning the wheel. 
> > 
> > PS groan is kind of distinctive, and I would never describe 
> > it as a haunted house door sound. Plus engine revs affect it. 
> > 
> > -- Jim 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Head gasket fun
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Through the trip computer thingy I think you press the clock/BC button, 
press "code" (left side of key), turn key to 1, punch in your 4 digit code, 
press "SET" (right side of button), turn key to 0.  I think theres a section 
"Enhanced Immobilizer" in the manual. It may be on all the M39's.

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> 
> > Hey maybe we should have an "evil ways to temporarily disable the 
> > car" contest?... One of my favorite factory ones is the BMW 540's 
> > have a function in the OBC/trip computer that lets you configure it 
> > to require a code in addition to the key before it will start 
> 
> How do you enter the code? 
> 
> -- 
> 1983 300D 
> 1966 230 
> 
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To: Mercedes Discussion List 

Re: [MBZ] Head gasket fun

[jwreames]

Isn't there a terminal block in the bottom of the fuse box (under the fuse 
mounting plate and the wiring harnesses) that feeds the GP relay? Much less 
trivial... but equally effective.  Less trivial and also effective would be to 
... modify the vacuum harness so that the shutoff always got vacuum
 
My favorite for a Jeep is to remove the "ballast resistor" on the inside of the 
driver's fender. It's really for the fuel pump--when starting the pump gets 
full B+, but when running it feeds through that resistor. Without that resistor 
it will catch and then quickly die as the fuel pressure goes to 0.

Hey maybe we should have an "evil ways to temporarily disable the car" 
contest?... One of my favorite factory ones is the BMW 540's have a function in 
the OBC/trip computer that lets you configure it to require a code in addition 
to the key before it will start

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Joe Knight" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> "Makes one think you should remove the GP fuse on any coolant 
> or oil disabled vehicle before letting it out of your control! 
> Put it back only in the presence of qualified personnel." 
>  
> Same thought occurred to me after the fact, Jim. Fortunately I had a 
> rebuilt 20 head on the shelf anyway to it wasn't too big a 
> disappointment and there doesn't appear to have been any lasting 
> damage. While I had the head off I reworked the wiring harnesses and 
> added afterglow, the controller for which doesn't have a fuse. So I'm 
> slightly at a loss as to how I might go about temporarily disabling it 
> should a similar circumstance arise in the future. 
> 
> -joe 
> 
> ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ball Joint Replacement (John & Kevin)
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We have replaced all bushings, ball joints, shocks, mounts, tie rod ends,
strut rod mounts, etc. but there is still a horrible creak going over speed
bumps (more so when the weather is cold).  1985 300CD, otherwise
mechanically perfect.




On 2/22/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > clogged power steering filter a few years ago which made a sort of
> > groaning
> > sound on turning the wheel.
>
> PS groan is kind of distinctive, and I would never describe
> it as a haunted house door sound.  Plus engine revs affect it.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Ball Joint Replacement

[jwreames]

Sounds like it. On a 126 you have to remove and strip the knuckle. (completely; 
no rotor or hub, not even the arm that the tie rod connects to. PITA).  It 
could also be the upper BJ/control arm.  The good news is you won't need a 
spring compressor.

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Judging by the horror movie sound described in another post, I may have a 
> lower right ball joint that's on its way OUT! It groans when turning the 
> steering wheel, but doesn't seem to make any noises at any other time. 
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR 
> 1983 300SD 266k miles, Ursula 
> 
> 
> ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Piston protrusion limits
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Peter,

Is the limit measured with or without the head gasket in place?

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Merle
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 3:10 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Piston protrusion limits


After rebuilding my 300D  I measured piston protrusion at 0.8mm which is
just within spec of 0.9mm. I find it strange in that the block is just
0.1mm short of a new one which means I should actual have 0.3mm
available. What is the limiting factor - prechamber collision or valve
collision with pistons. Has anyone got figure for valve lift vs crank
position for the non-turbo  ?
Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT - PCs and Macs (was) Accents

[jwreames]

I dunno whats the issue with the mavica, but I am wondering if it has to do 
with following the appropriate "book" when it comes to multisession discs. As 
far as the server issue, ummm If you are talking about an NFS server (Macs 
should use NFS for file sharing with OSX if I recall properly), then I would be 
surprised. If we are talking about an SMB server (ie windows) then I would not 
be surprised.Microsoft does not play very well with others.. this is not 
accidental.
-j. 

-- Original message -- 
From: Lee Einer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> 
> I am now working (temporarily) as Features Editor of a local paper. They 
> use mostly Mac G4s. IMO, the G4s suck like a rift in spacetime. 
> 
> I use a Sony Mavica for photography which burns to a mini-cd. Works 
> fantastic whether you use Windoze or Linux. Apparently won't work on a 
> Mac because OSX can't read the CD. Most folks there keep a cd in their 
> drive bay so they have an icon which they can click and (hopefully) 
> eject their CDs, because once the CD is out and the icon leaves the 
> desktop it may or may not open the drive bay and may or may not read the 
> next CD. 
> 
> Word on the Mac has the quaint habit of deleting files on the server 
> rather than saving when you attempt to save changes to an existing 
> document. There is no fix for this shite. I could go on. 
> 
> So, all the time I was using PCs I was hearing about Macs and thinking 
> "damn, they must be good if they cost so freakin' much but I bet I could 
> build something as good for less." I was wrong. I could build something 
> a helluva lot better for far less. 
> 
> Lee 
> 
> John W. Reames III wrote: 
> > On Mon, 19 Feb 2007, Werner Fehlauer wrote: 
> > 
> >> Jim - after more than 30 years of using PCs (starting with an 8080 in kit 
> >> form), I suppose I'm too old to switch to one of those Apple/Mac/whatever 
> >> boxes. Even worked up a box with a 6502 processor (as used in the early 
> >> Apples) but on an S-100 bus, with a 300 baud modem using tape on the 
> >> Kansas 
> >> City standard. In those days memory was around $100 a K! 
> >> Ditched that and went to a Z80 and dual 8" floppy drives. Finally sprung 
> >> for 
> >> a complete PC when the company offered them on an employee plan. Have 
> >> probably gone through almost a dozen "bigger and better" ones over the 
> >> years. 
> >> Always heard that they were the greatest for publication and artwork, but 
> >> also was turned off by the higher pricing and lack of being able to 
> >> kloodge 
> >> up a system using various and sundry after market accessories. 
> >> 
> >> Werner 
> > 
> > You can pick up used ones for cheap. 
> > 
> > I got a G4/dual 533 with half a gig ram for $100. Got an original Apple 
> > studio LCD (17") for $180 (ebay), a dvd-dl burner for $30 (other world 
> > computing), a 120GB HDD for $40 (computergeeks.com), and replaced the 
> > apple 1 button with my wife's 3 button original MS notebook optical 
> > mouse. Its pretty decent speed wise, and just works with everything I 
> > throw at it. 
> > 
> > The BIGGEST PIT(F)A is Quicken-- PC and MAC are different design teams, 
> > different savefiles. You have to EXPORT the PC version, and you lose all 
> > your reapeat/memorized transactions when you import it. Ditto going from 
> > MAC-> PC. everything else is fine. iPhoto beats the crap out of other 
> > photo organizers (hands down). You can even get a ShutterFly plugin for 
> > it! (Export -> shutterfly) 
> > 
> > -j. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
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> > 
> > 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] MB & Chrysler

[jwreames]

The cherokee (XJ) went away in 2001. It was "replaced" by the jeep liberty 
(sold as cherokee in outside the US) in 2002. (The liberty has a non-solid 
front axle and an front pumpkin). I seem to recall that the "reason" was 
noise about the I6 powertrain not meeting emissions specs or somesuch... (I 
believe the I6 was sold in the wrangler through the end of the TJ production 
(2006))

FWIW, the liberty was available in a diesel in 2005 (only 10k sold in the US... 
but then Mercedes only sold what 3500 210.025's each of 1998-9)

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> the chrysler 300 is one of the few domestic cars i'd actually buy. others 
> include the ford focus, Jeep Cherokee (still made?), and that's about it. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] DaimlerChrysler or Daimler, Chrysler?
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Toyota has build a reputation for building affordable and reliable 
transportation, boring as the rest of the Asian cars but the perception of 
quality is there.

- Original Message - 
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DaimlerChrysler or Daimler, Chrysler?


> Maybe they can sell to Toyota. They seem to be taking over the industry. 
> Can't quite understand why. We have 2
> Toyotas right now (in addition to 3 Fords, the Benz and a Chevy) and I 
> don't think the Toyotas are any better than
> the rest. Didn't we just have this thread recently?
>
> Randy
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:30 PM
> To: mercedes
> Subject: [MBZ] DaimlerChrysler or Daimler, Chrysler?
>
>
> An emotional day for Chrysler's workers in Warren
> http://freep.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070214/BUSINESS01/70214011
>
> Daimler open to partial sale of Chrysler
> http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/17149205/
>
> Detroit___s Slump Could Break Up Chrysler Group
> http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/15/business/15auto.html?ei=5094&en=b87e6eeff177df5b&hp=&ex=1171515600&partner=homepa
> ge&pagewanted=print
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[jwreames]

*D'oh!*
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300D (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (142K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (108K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> "What year is the Acura? the 300D?" 
> 
> Bob Rentfro 
> '77 300D 167K 
> '87 Acura Legend 182K 
> Litchfield Park, AZ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] WAS Sludge Issues/Warranty Stuff NOW Today's Puzzler
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removed the lid for the air cleaner?

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> OK, I have a puzzler.  Let's see how good you all are.  FIist correct reply
> wins a FREE Puccini coffee (must be collected in Washington, D.C.)
> 
> 1985 300CD.  For the past week we plugged in the block heater and the car
> started instantly and perfectly in gtemps. as low as 10 degrees F.
> Yesterday, the alley was iced up so we had to park on the street overnight,
> with no way to plug in the block heater.  Temp. was 17 degrees this AM with
> a wind chill of maybe 5.  We glowed and kept glowing 10 seconds after the
> light went out.  Engine turned but would not fire.  Tried twice more, using
> the gas pedal, but to no avail!  I had her pop the hood and try a fourth
> time while I watched - still turned but no dice.  Battery was strong,
> fortunately.  I stared at the engine, thought deeply and then fiddled with
> something in the engine area.  I then myself tried to start it again using
> the same preglow procedure.  This time the engine fired instantly and ran
> flawlessly.
> 
> Question:  What exactly did I do under the hood?
> 
> Hint:  I have never done this before or heard of this tactic being used as a
> technique for getting a balky diesel to start in cold weather.  This doesn't
> prove or mean anything but then again, it might.
> 
> Good luck, and apologies in advance if this puzzler is wya too elementary
> and an insult to the collective Okiebenz intelligence.
> 
> ALS
> 
> On 2/15/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/14/2007 7:58:23 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>>
>> Looks  like this dude has a Xferable warranty.
>> You reckon it's one offered by the  dealer they charge a bizillion $s for
>> when you buy the vehicle?
>>
>> Would  this be outside the years for sludge  issues?
>>
>> http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/277567380.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Jeez, that's right in your neighborhood.  I went to the PHx library  today
>> and checked the service bulletins in AllData again.  It says models  from
>> 98 to
>> 2001.  The TSB was issued 12/5/2003.  There may be later  ones, but I
>> didn't
>> see any.  The TSB did not discuss warranty pass  throughs, though it did
>> caution dealers to check the FSS history for excessive  mileage between
>> oil changes.
>> Apparently the PCM maintains an internal  history of when the FSS was
>> reset,
>> and at what mileage on the oil.
>>
>> Jim  Friesen
>> Phoenix AZ
>> 79 300SD, 264 K miles
>> 98 ML 320, 147 K  miles
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email 

Re: [MBZ] WAS Sludge Issues/Warranty Stuff NOW Today's Puzzler

[jwreames]

I'm going to guess you utilized the primer pump.

Ristretto -- double, 1/2 teaspoon sugar.

That ice we got was pretty nasty. (Baltimore city at night, Reston, VA during 
the day)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> OK, I have a puzzler. Let's see how good you all are. FIist correct reply 
> wins a FREE Puccini coffee (must be collected in Washington, D.C.) 
> 
> 1985 300CD. For the past week we plugged in the block heater and the car 
> started instantly and perfectly in gtemps. as low as 10 degrees F. 
> Yesterday, the alley was iced up so we had to park on the street overnight, 
> with no way to plug in the block heater. Temp. was 17 degrees this AM with 
> a wind chill of maybe 5. We glowed and kept glowing 10 seconds after the 
> light went out. Engine turned but would not fire. Tried twice more, using 
> the gas pedal, but to no avail! I had her pop the hood and try a fourth 
> time while I watched - still turned but no dice. Battery was strong, 
> fortunately. I stared at the engine, thought deeply and then fiddled with 
> something in the engine area. I then myself tried to start it again using 
> the same preglow procedure. This time the engine fired instantly and ran 
> flawlessly. 
> 
> Question: What exactly did I do under the hood? 
> 
> Hint: I have never done this before or heard of this tactic being used as a 
> technique for getting a balky diesel to start in cold weather. This doesn't 
> prove or mean anything but then again, it might. 
> 
> Good luck, and apologies in advance if this puzzler is wya too elementary 
> and an insult to the collective Okiebenz intelligence. 
> 
> ALS 
> 
> On 2/15/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > In a message dated 2/14/2007 7:58:23 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 
> > 
> > Looks like this dude has a Xferable warranty. 
> > You reckon it's one offered by the dealer they charge a bizillion $s for 
> > when you buy the vehicle? 
> > 
> > Would this be outside the years for sludge issues? 
> > 
> > http://phoenix.craigslist.org/car/277567380.html 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Bob, 
> > 
> > Jeez, that's right in your neighborhood. I went to the PHx library today 
> > and checked the service bulletins in AllData again. It says models from 
> > 98 to 
> > 2001. The TSB was issued 12/5/2003. There may be later ones, but I 
> > didn't 
> > see any. The TSB did not discuss warranty pass throughs, though it did 
> > caution dealers to check the FSS history for excessive mileage between 
> > oil changes. 
> > Apparently the PCM maintains an internal history of when the FSS was 
> > reset, 
> > and at what mileage on the oil. 
> > 
> > Jim Friesen 
> > Phoenix AZ 
> > 79 300SD, 264 K miles 
> > 98 ML 320, 147 K miles 
> > 
> > ___ 
> > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
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Re: [MBZ] WAS Black '85 300D update NOW Fuel leak from canister 85 300CD

[jwreames]

You can buy the seal rings. They have call-outs in the EPC, so you might need 
to look over the parts guy's shoulder. There should be obvious "grooves" where 
the o-rings would sit on the bolt. I'd try it without replacing the bolt. If it 
is boogered up, you can buy the housing and the bolt still, they should not be 
that bad to replace (IIRC you have to remove the CC actuator then its pretty 
straightforward from there. Make sure to buy new crush rings for the 4? banjo 
fittings on the housing)

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> If the seals are missing or worn, should I purchase a new bolt? 
> 
> In a worst case scenario, what if the filter housing block is - in your 
> words - "boogered up? 
> 
> 
> On 2/11/07, John W. Reames III wrote: 
> > 
> > On Fri, 9 Feb 2007, andrew strasfogel wrote: 
> > 
> > > The 1985 300 CD is leaking fuel from the TOP of the main fuel filter 
> > > canister, right under the 19 mm (?) bolt that secures the filter. I 
> > can't 
> > > possibly tighten it any more. I wonder if there is a small metal gasket 
> > > that should be there belowe the head of the bolt - does anyone 
> > know? The 
> > > car is really nice so it offends me to smell the fuel aroma coming from 
> > > under the hood when the engine is purring away. :( 
> > 
> > The bolt is a hollow bolt with two o-rings on the bolt itself that seal it 
> > top and bottom. There should no t be a metal crush ring up there, and 
> > hopefully the filter mounting block is not too boogered up. 
> > -j. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___ 
> > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update
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kevin kraly wrote:
> Well, Dad and I went out yesterday to take a look at it.  before we got 
> there, the owner had started it up and turned it around in the driveway.  He 
> left it idling for a couple minutes before it died.  Since it had been 
> sitting for a few months, I tried the primer pump which he knew nothin' 
> about and proceeded to attempt a prime.  A moderate amount of fuel gushed 
> out (old screw-in type), and I couldn't get the necessary 10psi behind it to 
> kick excess fuel past the squeaky sounding valve that routes it back to the 
> tank.  It caught on three cyls, but not enough to get it to run.  We tried a 
> little starting fluid which did very little.  Next, we tried jumping it to 
> get a bit more cranking speed, but still no go.  The owner left the charger 
> on it all night to get the battery up to the max.  He just called me to 
> inform me that it still wouldn't start.  Even if it starts which is 
> unlikely, the car is nothing special, pealing clearcoat, cracks in the 
> interior including dash cracking and major cracking in the top of the rear 
> seatback, missing dash wood trim, non-working radio, and hey, it's

Re: [MBZ] OT Re: Ham Radio - was Re: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[jwreames]

Maryland chgarges the same as for any other "special" plate (vanity, chesapeake 
bay, save our farms, other group affiliations, etc-- $5/yr)

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: ernest breakfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> in most states that i've investigated, it doesn't cost anything to 
> keep a 'Call Tag' like it would cost to keep a personalized plate, or 
> the only charge is for the printing of the special plate. (in CA for 
> example, it was $10 to get them printed last time i checked, but no 
> annual charge to keep it.) 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Re: Ham Radio - was Re:
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Oklahoma charges $2.00 above the regular tag fee, Most vanity tags are
an extra $25.00.

On 2/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Maryland chgarges the same as for any other "special" plate (vanity, 
> chesapeake bay, save our farms, other group affiliations, etc-- $5/yr)
>
> -j.

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there."
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Euro lamps

[jwreames]

Look at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
search for "P45t"; 45/40W for $11, 60/55W for $12, no soldering

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> reflector is unused.) It uses R2 headlamps, which are hard to find. 
> 
> I converted one to H4 by desoldering the old bulb's base and turning 
> it into an adapter flange. I plan to do the other one when it dies. 
> The converted lighting pattern is a little softer than before but 
> is still pretty good, and is brighter. And much easier to procure, 
> and is cheaper. I laid in a supply of liquidation H4's for $1 or 
> $2 each. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel truck conversion
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I think the old Chevy and a 300D would be pretty close to the same weight 
empty..

As far as driving an underpowered dog of a truck I can tell you for sure 
that the 240D engine would suck in a truck.  My 78HP flathead gasser in the 
M37 is OK rolling down the flat road but the slightest hill and you are 
crawling carrying a load.  A pickup NEEDS the extra power to be usefull.  If 
you are only concerned about economy leave the engine in the Benz.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 6:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel truck conversion


>I might be able to live with a very fuel efficient "dog". My father at one 
>time had a 67 Ford pickup. It came with
> a 352 cid V8 and he later swapped in a 240 cid inline 6, because he was 
> unhappy with the mileage. It was OK empty
> but one had to slip the clutch a bit to get moving if it was loaded. 
> However, once moving down the highway it would
> really cruise and was very good on gas. I never expressly checked but I 
> assume it had a pretty high rearend. I
> suppose one might need to go the other way in terms of rear gear with a 
> small diesel but it sure would be nice to
> have good mileage. It can't weigh much more than my 115 300D unless it was 
> loaded up.
>
> Randy
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Canfield
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:11 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel truck conversion
>
>
> No way...After owning my 123 240D automatic I would not even think 
> about
> putting that engine in a truck.  Maybe in a Toyota or the like.
>
> Only a 5cyl. and only a turbo in a truck for me.  Anything less would be a
> dog compared to the 292 Gasser 6.
>
> Mike
> - Original Message -
> From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 3:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel truck conversion
>
>
>> Have to agree with you. Couldn't do much better. I wonder if a 240D 
>> engine
>> would have sufficient power?
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Canfield
>> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 12:28 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] diesel truck conversion
>>
>>
>> Randy,
>>  As a MBZ enthusiast I have always thought the engine from a 300D turbo
>> with the 4 speed automatic would be perfect for a 67-72 Chebbie.  (My
>> favorite Chevy body style by the way.)  At least in a 2wd.
>>
>> Mike
>> 

Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal

[jwreames]

Or my favorite: some soccer mom using her suburban to drive her kids 300 yds 
(max) down the driveway, only to sit there idling until the bus picks them up, 
then back up the drive and go back in the house. I see it MANY mornings, and it 
doesnt have to be any colder than 40 for it to occur!

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> I'd say your 28mpg car is not as big a pollution problem as some soccer mom 
> with 
> 2 kids in a Suburban. Think what it costs in terms of environmental impact to 
> MAKE that stupid SUV and in the next 10 years she'll have 2 or maybe even 
> 3... 
> Driving an older moderately efficient car is recycling at its best. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal
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Its cold right now on the east coast... 2 years in a row I've ridden my 
motorcycle after Thanksgiving. We had the second warmest December on record.

Climate, not weather. Don't judge based on one city or state in a week, whats 
the overall average for the world per year? This baby's warming up. I can't 
believe that all the heat we make as a species by burning (if nothing else) 
fossil fuels hasn't contributed to the temperature of our planet.

You realize we burn BILLIONS of gallons of fuel a year? Its hard to conceive of 
how big that number is. Billions, totally unavailable to the average mind.
That heat has to be somewhere, it can't all just shed away from the planet, air 
is insulating...

-Curt

Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 21:21:08 -0600
From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Oh, I agree that we are polluting the air and we need to stop ASAP. My 
only
issue is with the current Global Warming mass hysteria. It's to the 
point
where the "experts" were blaming this year's earlier warm weather on 
global
warming but now that it's actually cold in the mid-west and east coast, 
I
don't hear a thing. Why? Because the cold weather no longer supports 
"global
warming". But then neither did the unseasonable warm spell, did it?

This hysteria is more like a religion than scientific fact. If it 
weren't
so, the "experts" would not be "cherry picking" data to support their
theories.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924

 
-
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Re: [MBZ] Are these legit workshop manual CDs?

[jwreames]

well maybe. It hadn't been started at all in ~2-3 weeks and it did get treated 
to 2-3 mins of cranking.Given the price of diehard etc, I'm likely to go to the 
stealership ($109) for a battery. They have been uprated to 100Ah...

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Sounds like the "diehard" didn't.. 
> 
> Werner 
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I'm with you Tom, whats a moderate to do?

I'll tell you what I do, I drive at 20 year old car that averages better than 
35mpg. I've got 85 acres that within a decade should be covered with trees.
Every month I invest in insulating my house a little better. I replace 
incadescent lightbulbs with cf. I use my woodstove which is of the new low 
particulate clean burn type. We don't throw out any food or paper waste, that 
all gets composted.
Everything metal, glass or plastic goes in the recycling. The block heater for 
my car is on a timer, outside lights are off at night since theres a 
streetlight anyway. I'm not a fanatic, just trying to do little things to 
reduce my ecological footprint.

I'd say your 28mpg car is not as big a pollution problem as some soccer mom 
with 2 kids in a Suburban. Think what it costs in terms of environmental impact 
to MAKE that stupid SUV and in the next 10 years she'll have 2 or maybe even 
3...
Driving an older moderately efficient car is recycling at its best.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 19:40:17 -0500
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Global Warming rebuttal
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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 reply-type=original

I find it interesting that allot of US citizens (who by the way make up 
5% 
of the worlds population but consume 26% of its energy) refuse to 
believe 
what we are doing cannot harm the 20 mile deep ocean of air we have 
surrounding us.  Even in the face of facts and greatest scientific 
minds 
refuse to agree.  I guess the other countries who are on board with 
this are 
not as smart as them.  All you have to do is look at the amount of NOx, 
SOx, 
CO and CO2 we emit which is in the millions of tons per year do the 
computer 
modeling and ask yourself how can it not affect our ocean of air.

What amazes me is none of our leaders or so called leaders every (or I 
have 
not heard it shouted out) have asked joe American public to turn off 
unneeded lights,  drive 65 instead of 80 on the highways, make one less 
trip 
to Wal-Mart a month, mandate 30mpg new cars,  have these places with 
all the 
parking lots light up like fort Knox go to night vision systems for 
surveillance ect ect ect.  I bet with a little effort we could reduce 
our 
consumption by 15 to 20% (and some pollution) if we would be lead as a 
group 
with some good incentives and direction to suck it up a little.  We can 
do 
this immediately with little effort or capital outlay.   My 2 cents.

Good reading is Mid Course Correction by J. Anderson

Tom Scordato
1979 240D only 28mpg and  contributing to the global night mare

 
-
Looking for earth-friendly autos? 
 Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.  
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Re: [MBZ] Are these legit workshop manual CDs?

[jwreames]

1999 E300Dt. 8 F, not plugged in, One glow cycle. "bump" key and let the thing 
"auto crank" (up to 2 secs). Fired right up. (Th!)... 1985 300D... 
well I probably need to go over the valves (7500 ago) and toss in some anti 
gel... and maybe a battery tender... It almost started before flattening the 
battery (2.5 yr old diehard)

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> New Benz? Hahahahahahahah! 
> 
> I'd rather buy something reliable, like a Yugo. 
> 
> Sad when even the Chinese have a more reliable new car than the Germans do. 
> 
> On 2/6/07, Mitch Haley wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > "Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote: 
> > > 
> > > MB is not putting out the CD manuals anymore? What the heck are people 
> > > supposed to do then? 
> > 
> > Buy new cars? 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> I'm a man but I can change if I have to ... I guess. 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
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Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2007 09:00:17 -0500
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Are these legit workshop manual CDs?
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Sounds like the "diehard" didn't..

Werner

- Original Message - 
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Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Are these legit workshop manual CDs?


> 1999 E300Dt. 8 F, not plugged in, One glow cycle. "bump" key and let the 
> thing "auto crank" (up to 2 secs). Fired right up. (Th!)... 
> 1985 300D... well I probably need to go over the valves (7500 ago) and 
> toss in some anti gel... and maybe a battery tender... It almost started 
> before flattening the battery (2.5 yr old diehard)
>
> -j.

Re: [MBZ] 1997 E320

[jwreames]

Check the vin on the 99's as the blower regulator is upgraded, and when the old 
one fails, you must buy a new motor and mounting plate too (different style to 
air cool a massive heatsink on the new regulator).  Additionally, peel back the 
outside lip of the door seals on top of the door, inspect for rust. Check for 
paint bubbles. Color code 702 (smoke silver/rauchsilber) needs panel blends to 
touch-up (at least 7 different variants of it in glasurit's book!, and I have 
two 702's both 99 that look different!)  Later ones should also have the 
upgraded AC evaporator.

Common things wrong include air mass meter, sway bar bushings, LCA bushings 
(hydraulic type) , long style lug bolts shearing/shorn off, passenger seat 
occupancy sensor failure.

Check the wood around the shifter for signs of spillage; thecup holder will let 
the cup loose into the shift sensor (big $) or let it fly into the radio and 
climate control (also big $)

The 2000's and up have the new style steering wheel with integrated controls 
and cluster (with trip computer) that go with it, those clusters are prone to 
dropped LCD segments/pixels (replace cluster, big $). They also have the touch 
shift (P-R-N-D w/ upshift right side of D, downshift left side of d) shift 
sensor.  I think they have fry catchers between the seats and driveshaft tunnel.

Thats 'bout all I can think of right now.
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> The 99 E-Class is a significantly safer car. It has side and head 
> curtain airbags. Stability Control was optional and is very desirable. 
> Check for rust on the upper front spring mounts. They gooped it up so 
> it is hard to detect. That's a $1500 fix and is a common failure 
> point. 
> 
> -Dave Walton 
> 82 240D, 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300 
> 
> On 1/31/07, Potter, Tom E wrote: 
> > My granddaughter is looking at a 1997 E320 with 90k miles on it. Does 
> > anyone have any advice about this model vehicle? The price is $9995.00. 
> > 
> > Does anyone have a Carfax available and care to run the VIN for me. The 
> > VIN is WDBJF55F7VA403678. 
> > 
> > Tom Potter 
> > 
> > ___ 
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> > 
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> > 
> 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] my 280CE destroyed by gang bangers
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Here is one of your vatos, back and forth 3 or 4 times, beheaded his 
in-laws at Christmas back home, suspected of several robberies and 
kidnappings of other illegals here, deported previously.  Just doing 
jobs that Americans don't want to do.

--R

MS-13 suspect snared

A suspected member of the violent MS-13 gang evaded capture for several 
months after a shootout last year with police and the FBI in Houston, 
crossing into his native Honduras where authorities accused him of the 
Christmas Day

Re: [MBZ] Holy cats!

[jwreames]

Yes a VW diesel will get 50mpg easy. Just not THAT model/that car. A new beetle 
will :P
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Yeah but will a VW diesel really "get 50 MPG easy". I think the 
> ratings when new were in the low-to-mid 40s, and it's usually hard to 
> achieve the rated mileage. 
> 
> When people say stuff like that in ads I question the trustworthiness 
> of the rest of their statements. 
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Content preview:  Werner Fehlauer wrote: > VWs in the 70s were very
thrifty with fuel, at the expense of performance. > I had a '79 Jetta
with the 1.6 engine and 5-speed; it did get very close to > 50 mpg out
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Holy cats!
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Werner Fehlauer wrote:
> VWs in the 70s were very thrifty with fuel, at the expense of performance. 
> I had a '79 Jetta with the 1.6 engine and 5-speed; it did get very close to 
> 50 mpg out of the (56HP?) non-turbo 4 banger.

I think '79 had a 1.5L.  48 hp @ 5000 rpm, 58 ft-lbs @ 2500 rpm.  If it
really was a 1.6, you had an extra 4 hp and 13 ft-lbs.

Re: [MBZ] Bio boys

[jwreames]

The newer ones (A la 210 chassis) are plastic, but they don't have the 
underbar; they are "loose" letters. 

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> But the ones I've seen are not, "Made from chrome plated, injection molded 
> plastic," so it can't be, "the same process used to make OEM emblems." 
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Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2007 05:58:34 -0800 (PST)
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Subject: [MBZ] Holy cats!
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http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/270935239.html
Low mileage, very pretty in the pictures.. I'm tempted to go check this out...

Yeah yeah, its still a diesel though...

-Curt

 
-
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
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That's ultra sweet. I nearly got one of those for wifey to drive after we 
got married in July of '80. I had my '72 220D and I was looking for her a 
car. I was getting ready to leave work one afternoon and to go to the bank 
and my dad (I worked for my dad inspecting/cleaning sewers) gave me a heads 
up that he was telling everyone else the next morning he sold the business 
and everyone would be unemployeed in a week. As a result, I never went to 
buy it. Sad.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 167K
'87 Acura Legend  181K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 6:58 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Holy cats!


> http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/car/270935239.html
> Low mileage, very pretty in the pictures.. I'm tempted to go check this 
> out...
>
> Yeah yeah, its still a diesel though...
>
> -Curt
>
>
> -
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars a

Re: [MBZ] Antenna mast removal

[jwreames]

Is it possible your antenna was replaced with a "generic" unit? IIRC the mast 
shoudl have a flatted ring (for a wrench) not a slotted ring (for a spanner). 
Does the tip of your antenna have a "h" on the top of it?  The Hirschmann's 
usually do.

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

> I know this has been discussed before, and the procedure should be easy. I 
> can't remove the antenna mast from my 83 300D. I removed the notched 
> threaded ring, the black gasket, and turned on the radio to activate the "up" 
> antenna. As the antenna was going up, I pulled on the mast. It didn't come 
> out. 
> I repeated this procedure with the same result. 
> 
> What am I doing wrong? Thanks. 
> 
> MikeN 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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I could use some palomino bits -- sun visors (both) as well as the front 
headliner bit (the one thats between the windsheild and the sunroof).. oh yeah 
and a drivers side map pocket

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Sunil Hari said: 
> 
> > Local guy selling a 1984 300D- says it has a tranny issue and a coked 
> > injector. If I buy it and part it out, who needs what? 
> 
> What color is the interior, Sunil? 
> 
> 
> Craig 
> 
> ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Beautifing the aluminumn bits
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Re: [MBZ] New to me eMac

[jwreames]

What did you say? The message was garbled after "all day". It looked like you 
said something about "bizzare draconian bondage-and-discipline operating 
systems" after that.
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> don't you guys find it funny that we talk about "obsolete" macs all 
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I thought it meant "Degrading, Repulsive and Mean" or "Da**ed Rotten 
Manufacture"
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: tom savage <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Craig McCluskey wrote: 
> 
> > So, what's DRM? 
> > 
> > Directly Reporting (all your secrets) to the Manufacturer (Microsoft)? 
> 
> That's not far off, actually. Digital Restrictions Management: 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Rights_Management 
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Subject: [MBZ] Head gasket sealant?
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Received my machined block and head for my W123 300D and unfortunately
managed to scratch the surface of the block which interfaces to the head
in a few places during transportation. Should I just leave it or can/
should  I apply a sealant to the affected areas?

Peter

[MBZ] [OT] other D/C products was:"special bolts" was:300sd FS near Philadelphia

[jwreames]

Actually it rejected the oil pump once.. aluminum pump, nodular iron block. 
Tossed in a high-volume one because it was cast iron, and it keeps 70psi at 
cold idle, but sounds like crap (as in a knocking/rapping/tapping)  It also 
had the harmonic balancer come unwound, the new one required removal of an oil 
slinger, so it got a timing chain for free then. Its a 91 laredo, so it has the 
HO engine without the renix engine management. (yay)... it has the bendix abs-9 
that should have been subject to a free UPGRADE to standard power brakes!  The 
rear drum brakes STILL suck @$$. Jeep -> Just Eats Every Penny ... not far off 
with tthe current crop of stuff.  If i had time, money, space and inclination, 
I'd pull the engine and bore/stroke it and then put a 4" lift or so on it... 
along with other upgrades.  For all the fuss and trouble, its probably more 
worth it to 1) buy an old farm 2) get a classic 'mog.

BTW the name fit, thats why it got it ;)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> That 4.0 will sound like the timing chain is gonna sling out of it for 
> another 100K miles;>)...FishbowlI like itThat's funny. I had an 
> 89 Laredo that kept destroying computers until I realized the windshield was 
> leaking water right into it..Try as I might I couldn't fix that 
> leak.Not sure where it really was coming from. I traded that Heep for 
> my first Samurai. Good trade. 
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From: Lee Einer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: [MBZ] Source for glove box lid
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My beloved's 1980 300CD has a glove compartment lid mechanism which
keeps jamming and getting stuck due to the molded plastic inner shell of
the lid being busted up. Does anybody know a good source for these?
Doesn't seem to be a happenin' thing on either EBay or on Rusty's site.

Lee

Re: [MBZ] "special bolts" was:300sd FS near Philadelphia

[jwreames]

Actually most of the stuff on fishbowl is hex head (thankfully)
Make me an offer ;) It is a good "project jeep"; I don't like the sound of the 
engine, but it has a GOOD bumper (from custom 4x4 fabrication IIRC) and a 
Gibson stainless exhaust system... Oh yeah it needs a windshield seal... and a 
sump pump. (for the interior), and suprise,suprise, the rear wiper doesn't 
work. It is the part/full time 4wd, but doesn't have the Dana 44 rear. Oh yeah. 
ABS (feh) but I will throw in another actuator so you can rebuild if needed. 

The XJ uses that GM column, btw. 

-j.

--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Those GM tilt columns SUCK to work on!! After working with all sorts of 
> fasteners I think IMHO the worst to deal with is XJ body Jeep Cherokees with 
> about 14(not really...) different sizes of Torx head screws and bolts on 
> EVERYTHINGA little road salt and you might as well forget even the 
> most simple chores. 
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From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cold and fuel gelling
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Levi,
Even though I no longer live in the Finger Lakes, I still treat my fuel here
with anti gel most of the winter-anything below 30F. Over reaction-perhaps.
We'll see-I have yet to try to start either of mine but will try my 240D
today. It was zero here early this AM-now a few degrees above. I use Howe's
diesel treat, which has anti-gel, etc etc.
Good luck with thawing it out.  I gelled up my 300D big time last winter
when I first got it and forgot to put in anti-gel.  I get the Howe's for
9.99 half gallon and bottle it in the smaller bottles from the other
additives. 
Dwight
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:29 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Cold and fuel gelling

Well, you can add my name to the list that no longer believes that they sell
fuel that will remain liquid at temps in the area.

I've been testing that theory this year(my first real winter in upstate NY
with my 83' 300D).  It made it at 5F without issue other than a slight lack
of power for a few seconds a time or two.

Well...  This morning it was -6F.  I had it plugged in overnight.  Started
without much issue.  However, to make a long story short:
-I only made it a few hundred feet down the road before it was no longer
happy to "just run"
-I found I had liquid fuel coming out of the fuel line(though I didn't
realize it was quite that green.  I thought I had anti-freeze coming out)
-I changed both filters which seemed to be fine, but then no fuel came out
after another 30 seconds
So, after an hour and a half (-6F isn't bad at all after about 20 minutes of
monkeying around) I realized that even if fuel is liquid in the lines, it's
not necessarily in the filters and I added about 50% kerosene and a bottle
of that 911 stuff.  I got it well enough that it would stay running, but not
well.  My trip to work was of the "ok, here's some power to get to around
30-40mph"(I was 

Re: [MBZ] "special bolts" was:300sd FS near Philadelphia

[jwreames]

http://www.wihatools.com/773serie.htm

I think it means External torx. when they round off, they REALLY round off, as 
in almost conical.

They are used a LOT on the 210's and the OM606 engine. I had the ones on the 
front torsion bar round on me (thankfully those craftsman damaged nut remover 
sockets REALLY work) partway out of the hole; I found that the bolts had been 
up-rev'ed to... (drumroll)... standard hex head bolts.

This was all aggravated by the bolts being "dipped" in the blue 
microencapsulated threadlocking compound.  Vise-Grips (a new pair with clean 
"sharp" teeth) literally could not get a good enough grip on the bolt to turn 
it!

BTW I have also run into them on GM type tilt steering columns--down in the 
bowels where the lower half of the tilt attaches to the upper part of the 
column.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> E-torx - like triple square? I'm sure M-B is not unique about the fasteners 
> they use, as almost every manufacturer has used special fasteners, either 
> for production efficiency reasons or special strength attributes. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Letterman...Now OT very dry humorous comments about Barry
Manilow...
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What do you mean you know?EVERYONE knows it's Mandy.

I can't believe any of us just said that

I had all but forgotten Barry Manilow and now this..The day is 
ruined, that song is in my head.  Must hear some Metallica..;>)

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Letterman


> Ohm that was REALLY bad Casey.  Took a moment to figure out, but that
> is because I know who Mandy is.
>
> On Jan 25, 2007, at 8:07 PM, Zeitgeist wrote:
>
>> A Barry Manilow encore?
>>
>> On 1/25/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Well, Letterman has an automotive connection but who-is-mandy-moore?
>>>
>>
>> Casey
>> Olympia, WA
>> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
>> '87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (222k)
>> '84 300D (219k)
>> Gashuffer:
>> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
>> '89 Audi 90Q (202k)
>> '94 Audi 100CS Quattro Avant (117k)
>> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
> 1972 220D - Gump
> 1995 E300D - Cleo
> 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
> The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 300sd FS near Philadelphia

[jwreames]

The only thing worse would have been E-torx heads!

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: "Tony Wirtel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Because of this car, I can say I've done MB ball joints AND say that I 
> hope I don't have to do them again! That, and as many have said 
> before, the person who spec'ed 6mm hex socket bolts for engine mounts 
> was a moron. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] "special bolts" was:300sd FS near Philadelphia
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E-torx - like triple square? I'm sure M-B is not unique about the fasteners 
they use, as almost every manufacturer has used special fasteners, either 
for production efficiency reasons or special strength attributes.

The main thing is to use the correct tool for these.  I tried to use a Torx 
bit (on other people's advice) to remove the 6 socket head bolts that hold 
the half-shaft to the center diff on my '90 124; all that did was to start 
to round them out.  With a 10mm triple-square bit, they came right out.  It 
is also interesting that replacement bolts from Rusty are of reverse (sex); 
they have external flutes, and therefore require something like a Torx 
female socket.  Some may even have luck using a 12-pt socket on those.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300sd FS near Philadelphia


> The only thing worse would have been E-torx heads!
>
> -j.
>
> -- Original message -- 
> From: "Tony Wirtel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>> Because of this car, I can say I've done MB ball joints AND say that I
>> hope I don't have to do them again! That, and as many have said
>> before, the person who spec'ed 6mm hex socket bolts for engine mounts
>> was a moron.

Re: [MBZ] [OT] The Imperial Presidency

[jwreames]

My grandmother had one (In baltimore), and I have roots in WV.

Anyhow how about that cold starting? The outside temp indicator on Frantz read 
"14" this morning, one glow, fired right up (<2 sec crank)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> I worked on a Ford Fairmont once, and I can locate WV on a map, so I suppose 
> I'm in the club too. 
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On 1/25/07, Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/268178652.html
> --
> Clay
> Seattle Bioburner
>
Clay,

You sure can find beautiful temptations. I wish I had saved that much
so far. M  Tax Refunds :)

Ed

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] OT- Hursty wants macs

[jwreames]

Agreed, but the Mac my wife uses was originally shipped with 9.2.2 (In fact I 
have to keep a copy on it for firmware upgrades and such as they are not 
available in OSX form for it!)  The box is actually faster with OSX (10.4.8) 
than 9.2.2.  I would like to bump it up to 1.5GB ram... I bumped it up to a 
120GB disk because it was cheap and I could (You can have iLife, office and two 
OS's installed on a 20GB and have more than half free!), and Other World 
Computing has the proper Pioneer DVD/DL-/+R/RW (with apple roms so it is a REAL 
superdrive) for $30. You can't go wrong there.

Its a really decent machine, and forget about drivers; open the box, plug the 
hardware in and ... it just works. whether its a 6 year old Nikon D1x (firewire 
connection) or a 4 month old Olympus Stylus 810 (USB) digital camera, or a 
Panasonic Mini-DV palmcorder... Heck just for grins I plugged in an audigy 2 
USB  it actually worked fine, though Creative has NO Mac drivers for it.

I'm picking up another one and moving all the digital photo stuff off of the 
PC, the ONLY thing that will be on the PC will be games (BF2, Day of Defeat: 
Source)...
-j.
--
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (141K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> The same would likely be true of a PC running Linux or BSD. 
> 
> It's not really the Mac hardware (though Macs DO tend to be well put 
> together), it's the OS. 
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From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] beyond crack
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Yes, that's what I meant.  In truth I like that 'dual control' better thna
the ACC in my 124.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI-Original Message-

"dual climate controls" reallly means old-style manual ACC system.
That's what I call "t*rd polishing.

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Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[jwreames]

Algae corpses blocking contact with the contact?
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I checked my low-fuel bulb, and it's good. I went back to the trunk 
> and pulled the connector to the sender, and shorting out the correct 
> two pins lit the lamp. So, either the sender's bad, or I had a bad 
> connection at the bulb that was rectified by the laying on of hands. 
> We'll see. 
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Glenn needs to send posts to the list as plain text.

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> I keep on getting a "server error" for this link.  What gives?
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] E300Dt question

[jwreames]

Anyone have a pair of "clic" clamp pliers that I can borrow?

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Seems like the easiest place to start is by running a can of diesel 
> purge through it. 
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I agree with Mitch. The Feds pretend it does not exist, and nobody calls
them on it=3D=3Dat least not since George Wallace.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Am I the only one that finds this bone chilling?



"John W. Reames III" wrote:
> Yeah. Then theres that pesky 10th amendment...

There is no 10th amendment. It was one of the first to go, before I
was born.=20

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Track Time and MBCA events

[jwreames]

Yeah! I want to see how fast those E300Dt can go! :) :)   Normally for an 
italian tuneup, I'd head out past Hagerstown (towards Deep Creek Lake) on I-70 
and get really leadfooted. I've seen more than one BIG ball of black smoke 
belch forth from the rear of the car doing that... They seem to make a 
difference and I drive a lot of highway miles!
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Werner is right on.. MBCA has lots to offer from building 
> friendships and camaraderie to going out on a track and doing a true 
> "Italian Tune Up". and lots of stuff in between. Go for it! As 
> the saying goes "A chance to drive Fast Legally!". 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Psychological Insights Today
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Ah! I see you haven't had your glass bellybutton installed yet!
;)
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans")
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz")

-- Original message -- 
From: David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> My engineering degree makes me well qualified to make blind guesses 
> about psychological matters. ;) 
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Thank you Marshall.

This is exactly the PDF I was going to send Euan by private email last
night.  However, I went to sleep before ever getting it done.  

Richard
Mercedesless in Morgan Township


--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Euan wrote:
> > Thanks Richard. Yes, I thought the silence was ominous.
> > 
> > The replacement is necessary because our Warrant of Fitness
> authorities 
> > deem any leak of hydraulic fluid from suspension systems as an
> automatic 
> > 'FAIL'. Invoking Mercedes leak-tolerances falls on deaf ears. Worse
> 
> > still, the FAIL is registere

Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

[jwreames]

Thanks. I noticed a decided difference in engine running between stone cold 
(overnight sit) versus warm adjustments. I always wondered why, or if it was 
something that I was doing wrong. I've gotten to where I can adjust them on the 
street in <30 mins (It has gotten a question or three from the neighbors, but 
they have grown to accept it.)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Unless you are much faster at adjusting valve than I am, the warm values 
> ALWAYS result in unreliable valve adjustment since the engine is cooling 
> while you are adjusting the valves. For a uniform valve adjustment the 
> engine must not have been run for 6-8 hours!! Even really experienced 
> mechanics can't do as good a job using the warm values (no matter what 
> they claim). 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Governer question - injection charge profile
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Peter Merle wrote:
> To ask a furthur question - what shapes the maximum injection stoke
> volume vs rpm at these pumps. As I understand it compensation for
> volumetric efficiency vs rpm needs to be taken account so that at low
> speed and at hig speed the maximum injection charge is lower than at mid
> range rpm due to rereduced volumetric efficeincy.  
>   
Let me make sure I understand what you're asking real quick.   :)  On 
the volumetric efficiency vs RPM are you talking about the amount of 
available air for combustion inside the cylinder based on RPM (things 
like boost and/or losses changing that over the RPM band)?


If thats the case, then the amount of injected fuel (injection charge?) 
does have different limits across the RPM range.  The reason for it is 
that if you start injecting too much fuel you will start generating 
clouds of black smoke (partially burned fuel).  I have a graph in a 
Bosch tech book that shows the max injected volume vs RPM and it does do 
what you describe.  I can post that if you would like that extra 
verification :)


As to HOW thats done that is where the complicated part (IMO) of our 
governors come into play.  In the governor used on the MW pumps I 
believe it is called "torque control."   There are very few people who 
truly understand exactly how it works (and how to change it), and I am 
certainly NOT one of them. 


If you are interested in learning more about how IPs work I'd highly 
suggest this book It talks about all kinds of IPs and how the 
governors work, etc.  As well as a fairly detailed overview of diesel 
combustion, etc.  I sure enjoyed reading it and learned a lot :)


http://www.boschtechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=product.search&keyword=1%20987%20723%20602


John
'79 300SD

Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

[jwreames]

I've gotten really huge latex gloves and put them on over knit garden gloves 
before, it doesn't kill your dexterity as much (and it is not like you need 
TONS of it for a valve adjustment)

I hear you kicking and screaming over bending overin the cold. Insulated 
coveralls help a bit, but I am still suffering from my jaunt on the ground 
yesterday; Hans had an 8mm coolant line pop out of a clip and rub itself to 
death on the intercooler... To get at the line entailed removing the bumper (4 
bolts, thankfully!).. I just used a 5/16 compression union on it, seems to be 
holding fine..

BTW i found out that I have weeping from between the "nuts" and the pipe on my 
oil cooler lines, Thankfully the OM606 has 4 lines; two hoses from the engine 
to the body hard lines, then the two body hard lines down to the aluminium 
radiator. Unfortunately it is the body hard lines that have the weep, so it 
looks like headlight removal time and probably dremel time (split the nuts 
and they will hopefully unscrew... but they might not be siezed either.  It 
will be decidely easier to get at the cooler with the bumper off. I'm hoping 
that the radiator is not leaking as well.

Does anyone know how much oil the lines and radiator hold? (210.025/OM606.96x)  
I'm guessing about 2 qt.

I also found that the bolts securing the sway bar to the chassis tend to round 
off (#&[EMAIL PROTECTED] E-10 heads) and were up-reved to Hex heads. I'm hoping 
that Craftsman external ez-out sockets will get a good bite on the now round 
heads and spin them right out.  

Additionally, on the stuck lug nut, I found that my locak dealership has a guy 
who is good enough with a plasma cutter to just blow the bolt out of the hole 
(!). Talk about big chrome-plated cast-iron cojones!

Fun,Fun.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "Roger Conlon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Thanks all who responded to my question. 
> It did cross my mind to leave the block heater plugged 
> in all night and while I was working on it. 
> 
> I thought by then the engine temp should even out. 
> 
> As far as the cold temp as long as I get out of the wind it's 
> really not that bad, and after the fingers get that fat numb feeling. 
> Right Lt. Don. Where has he been lately or have I just missed his postings? 
> 
> I think it bothers my back more in the cold from leaning over tho. 
> 
> _ 
> Type your favorite song. Get a customized station. Try MSN Radio powered 
> by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 
> 
> 
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines (was: Number of cylinders)

[jwreames]

Sounds like it would 1) leak a lot, and 2) smoke even more

Nifty feature, that self-hydrolocking.  I guess the spark plug threads on the 
bottom cylinders wear out sooner than those on the upper ones :P

Fun Fun!
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump' 
> engines. Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting 
> - you have slowly crank the engine through a couple of turns before 
> trying to start it (aircraft application). They have been known to 
> blow a cylinder or two off when this step is omitted. 
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Subject: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather
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Thanks all who responded to my question.
It did cross my mind to leave the block heater plugged
in all night and while I was working on it.

I thought by then the engine temp should even out.

As far as the cold temp as long as I get out of the wind it's
really not that bad, and after the fingers get that fat numb feeling.
Right Lt. Don. Where has he been lately or have I just missed his postings?

I think it bothers my back more in the cold from  leaning over tho.

_
Type your favorite song.  Get a customized station.  Try MSN Radio powered 
by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001

Re: [MBZ] Test 2

[jwreames]

I think B is more appropriate, ie "TB" :)

--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "Bob Rentfro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> & A 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Frederick W Moir" 
> > T 
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Subject: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines (was:  Number of cylinders)
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What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is pretty 
obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would seemingly accumulate in 
the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)... 
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> "Darrell W. Sigmon" writes: 
> 
> > Werner, I have a technical question for you or others. Why do ALL 
> > radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9? There is a 
> > logical answer, what is it? 
> 
> In a 4 stroke radial engine, it's so that the firing order can be 
> every other cylinder. 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is
> pretty obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would
> seemingly accumulate in the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...

LOL.. I was wondering exactly the same thing this morning...

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230

Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

[jwreames]

It was a balmy 20F here this morning (okay so it is the coldest that it has 
been so far this winter, most of it was above 50 so far) but Hans started up 
quite easily without any extra glow cycles and without plugging in. (Of course 
I was cold as &*^*^* until it warmed up)

BTW, whats the lifetime on the plastic screw-on 2 bar radiator caps (A la W210)
-j
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Hi Levi, 
> The wonderful cold has finally come to visit usMy diesel van 
> absolutely refused to start this AM.Even with the block heater on all 
> night. I am wondering if the block heater quit in the night as I couldn't 
> hear it running and I usually can...Was too cold to mess with it until I 
> get the batteries charged back upToni let it crank until they were 
> dead as a stone.GGGRR One of her coworkers came and picked her 
> upGuess I'll have to fire up the old M37 to go get her from 
> work.Hope the old flathead will go with straight 30W oil in 
> her.. 
> 
> MAN, IT'S COLD OUT!! 
> 
> Mike 
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www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/tech_engine_packaging.htm

On 1/17/07, kevin kraly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yes, VW does make a V5 engine, an earlier 2.3L 10v and a later 2.5L 20V
> DOHC
> version.  Here's everything you ever wanted to know about the V5 engine
> configuration.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V5_engine
>
> Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
> 1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

[MBZ] [OT] P/M/W (was Mercedes Quality vs Toyota)

[jwreames]

Not much longer; in America we are engaging in a selective breeding campaign; 
we espouse abstinence and waiting, so those few good people do that, resulting 
in fewer kids.  The less-than good folks (ie the self-centered idiots to whom 
nothing in this world applies (except entitlement programs)) go ahead and have 
lots of kids (this would be a "litter", right?) (whether it is to further their 
entitlements or just because they dont care)... so the idiots are 
out-reproducing the non-idiots. Couple that with the ongoing campaign to repeal 
the laws of natural selection (courtesy of all the lawsuits and safety warnings 
as a result of injuries caused by failure to utilize common sense...) 

Anyhow, Y'all can smell what I'm stepping in.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Most problems can be blamed on a minority. Fortunately, good people 
> still outnumber the f***ing idiots, but I wonder for how much longer? 
> 
> -- Jim 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather
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Hi Levi,
  The wonderful cold has finally come to visit usMy diesel van 
absolutely refused to start this AM.Even with the block heater on all 
night.  I am wondering if the block heater quit in the night as I couldn't 
hear it running and I usually can...Was too cold to mess with it until I 
get the batteries charged back upToni let it crank until they were 
dead as a stone.GGGRR  One of her coworkers came and picked her 
upGuess I'll have to fire up the old M37 to go get her from 
work.Hope the old flathead will go with straight 30W oil in 
her..

MAN, IT'S COLD OUT!!

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 6:09 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Cold Weather


> Well, I've finally found that point where as Marshall describes it:
> "Everything must be perfect" for cold weather starting.  I started 
> yesterday
> morning at like 15F without issue.  This morning it was about 5F.  At that
> point, I have now experienced what cold weather starting is in my 83' 
> 300D.
> It DID start, but it took some effort.  I think I may be able to start
> quicker next time.
> NORMALLY, if it's like 20F or lower I'll let it glow for around 10-15
> seconds longer than the light says, hold the pedal to the floor and crank
> until it starts at which point I let off the fuel proportionately as it
> starts speeding up to keep it at a fast idle.  It won't idle on it's own 
> for
> a minute or two.
> HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF the
> fuel...  My startup went like this:
> Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25 
> seconds
> with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather 
> slowly)
> and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying out
> again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press my
> luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
> seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and again 
> it
> slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.  So 
> I
> took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds 

Re: [MBZ] Driving safety while covered with ice

[jwreames]

Every day in virginia. Sometimes more than one at a clip.
-j.

 -- Original message --
From: David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Werner Fehlauer wrote:
> If Canada is like the U.S., the semi drivers probably get a pass from
> law enforcement anyway.  When was the last time you saw a semi pulled over?
\

Re: [MBZ] what is this and how does it work?

[jwreames]

You need a multiplexer that is compatible with DAS. (good luck finding one).. 
The cables are probably specific to the multiplexer. I was looking at the 
MT2500 and decided it wasnt worth the money, I got a sweet deal on an iSCAN 
(autoland scientech/baum D91) with the mercedes, obd2 and beemer cables and 
software. ($2k used, $8k new)... when the stealer wants $120/pop to plug in 
I'll let you all know how well it works. With a pair of 99's I didnt want to 
fork over snap-on money for the limitations it has. I understand that you can 
use it without a multiplexer, but you need to manually select the proper pins 
for the system you want to talk to... a multiplexer lets the software handle 
the selection automagically. The problem is the "language" spoken between the 
multiplexer and the software...

-j

 -- Original message --
From: "James Zavesky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> John
> 
> If you had a laptop and had the Mercedes DAS program installed on it which
> cable set would you buy? Would the cable from my Snap On MT2500 scanner with
> it's 38pin cable work? Or do I still need some sort of multiplexer. The
> MT2500 has limitations and was thinking of transitioning to a better
> diagnostic tool. 
> 
> James Zavesky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > On Behalf Of John W. Reames III
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 5:23 
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] what is this and how does it work?
> > 
> > On Mon, 15 Jan 2007, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> > 
> > >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=003&sspagename
> > =STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=130069221311&rd=1&rd=1
> > >
> > 
> > It is a computer interface for mercedes vehicles for diagnosis; the newer
> > ones use a 38 pin round connector or an OBDII standard connector (from
> > my2000 on), and have multiple pins used for transmission of data from
> > different systems (engine,tranny,airbags,abs, etc).. this lets the
> > computer select which of those lines is used.  The gotcha is that it is
> > for carsoft 7.4 software, which isn't available any more, and it may be
> > difficult to obtain a legitimate copy of it. Additionally, Carsoft can
> > have limitations when it comes to diesels. It is supposed to be a "cheap"
> > star diagnosis system (SDS). Bear in mind that SDS runs about $24k up
> > front plus $7k/yr.  (The discontinued HHT (Handheld tester) ran $3900 for
> > the unit and $900 for the cables If I recall, and was limited to my1999
> > and earlier).  I believe that this wasn't neeeded until my1988 or
> > later, and for anything pre-w210, you can use an impulse counter
> > instead, so I'd call this a pg in a poke, and there seem to be a lot of
> > them up there too.
> > 
> > -j.
> > --
> > John Reames
> > 1985 300D 223k "Gerta"
> > 1991 Cherokee 149k "The fishbowl"
> > 1999 E300Dt 140k "Hans"
> > 1999 E300Dt 106k "Frantz"
> > 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] front lug bolts 300SDL

[jwreames]

From: "Trampas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I have broken and drilled a few in my time. My car still has long bolts, but 
> I use anti-seize, yea, yea complain all you want but I have never broken a 
> bolt that I installed. 

Yep, but the key is "that I installed"... This was done by some teenage weenie 
with a thundergun who thinks he ought to be in a nascar pit but is stuck 
working at some tire shop. Hence, I'm rectifying the situation since I have 
twisted a couple , but none off (yet)
-j.
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The Swedes know cold... So do the Germans for that matter, its not all lowland 
country.
The Swiss drive alot of German cars and they KNOW cold too.

When I was born my Mom had a VW type 3 fastback. They lived in northern Maine 
and she likes to say that the week I was born it never got above -35F, thats 
-37C...
Had a propane heater in the car for heat as the aircooled VW heat was in no way 
up to it.

We're supposed to see low single digits tonight. I was at the hardware store 
last weekend and happened to spot a christmas light timer on sale, picked it up 
so tomorrow the 190D should be nicely warmed when I'm ready to go.


-Curt

Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2007 15:59:06 -0600
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Passat Jetta Country of Manufacture quick
 question
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
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If nout Euro, then what type are you thinking might better handle cold?

I have this notion that Saabs are built for the cold.

This is a topic of interest to me here in Minnesota.

Brian


On 1/15/07, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I agree.  There's cold-cold and then there's WINNIPEG cold. It's
> probably too much to expect Euro cars to handle the kind of temps you
> all were enjoying last week (-35  C).
>

 
-
Looking for earth-friendly autos? 
 Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.  
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Re: [MBZ] Rear Brake Job - 1983 240 D

[jwreames]

Have you tried a random number in your area code with a 555 exchange?

Or perhaps use one of the "offshore" areacodes.. some of them are VERY 
expensive (dollars per minute)

-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Allan, is there any way around having to give one's phone number and full
> name before being able to browse that site?
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> On 1/10/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >  I have a pressure bleeder I bought from www.germanautoparts.com and I
> > would
> > never bleed any other way after having used that.
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Rear Brake Job - 1983 240 D

[jwreames]

The W210 chassis is cute about that; it throws an error in the cluster (instead 
of the odometer) that the parking brake is on and chirps at you, then if your 
speed goes above 10mph or so (maybe 15mph) it will change the illumination 
color of the message area from amber to RED and really squawk. It sort of 
resolves the issue :)

-j.

> Also popular is leaving E-brake on then drive, which causes lots of  
> parts to be replaced, don't ask my wife  about this...

Re: [MBZ] Turbo hp boost percentage

[jwreames]

Don't forget that the newer engines, such as the om606 are possessed of 
(perhaps possessed by is more accurate) a computer-controlled wastegate, so it 
will be difficult to bump the boost. I seem to recall that the VNT's do a 
little better job at lighter loads. I also seem to recall that all Mercedes 
turbodiesels (at least the ones we deal with; om60x.96x, om603.97x, om617.95x, 
om352a) have oil jets for the pistons.
-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I would hope that no one would try to simply bolt on the turbo parts of a 
> newer engine to the block of an older one, and expect it to live very long. 
> That extra mechanical loading of bearings and rods may turn the thing into 
> an I.E.D., and the additional thermo load will surely do bad things for 
> longevity, also.
> As has been pointed out before, one big reason to limit turbo boost is to 
> keep from melting out the tops of the pistons; turbo engines are designed 
> with special additional cooling provisions for the pistons - some even have 
> one or more dedicated spray nozzles inside the block to throw oil on the 
> underside of the piston itself.
> Werner

Re: [MBZ] Part OT Turbo boost percentage and Turbo Talk

[jwreames]

Wiki claims the NA version is 79 or 87 HP and the Turbo is 121 or 123 HP, so 
between ~40% and 55%... Torque is also kicked up QUITE a bit... I want to say 
75-100%
-j.

--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "the fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (140K "Hans") (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K "Frantz") (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "Zoltan Finks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> So how many percent does the turbo on the typical 5 cylinder Mercedes diesel 
> boost power? 
> 
> FYI: The ad claimed a zero to 50 time of 5.2. (Tricky to use 50 instead of 
> 60). And strangely, it claimed a hwy. MPG of est. 35, and a city MPG of 22. 
> Cute car - I remember a buzz around how high-performing these were for a 4 
> cylinder car. Most that I ever saw, and still see, were lower-end ones and 
> pretty junky. In the same magazine, I saw an ad for a Renault Fuego turbo. 
> It claimed a boost of some 35% or so. 
> 
> Ah, the mid-80's - era of the Turbo. Everything from vacuum cleaners to 
> Judas Priest albums were named "Turbo". 
> 
> Even more OT FYI: Has anyone seen the movie "The Wraith" that stars a young 
> Charlie Sheen? The real star is this futuristic Chrysler concept car based 
> on the Laser, I believe. It was also a rare film that was filmed on some of 
> the desert streets and mountain roads that we used to tear up in Tucson. 
> 
> Brian 
> 83 240D 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
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Zoltan Finks wrote:
> Nothing but fun: I was looking through a photography magazine from the
> mid-80's yesterday, and happened upon a two-page, beautiful advertisement
> for the Chrysler Laser - remember those?
> 
> Along with claiming, and having little pictures to prove, that it
> out-slalomed the Porsche 944, out-braked the Trans-Am, and out-something-ed
> the Camaro Z28, it mentioned that it's turbo boosted the engine's power 45%.
> (at least I think this is what they meant when they mentioned 45% turbo
> boost).
> 
> So how many percent does the turbo on the typical 5 cylinder Mercedes diesel
> boost power?

The '80 300TD I owned had a 3 liter normally aspirated engine, the '82 
300TD I owned had a 3 liter 125 hp engine. The big difference was the 
turbo. That's a 58% improvement (although only about 42% of that is due 
to boost alone). And the turbo can boost the output even more - but only 
for about a minute or two - until the pistons melt so that inhibited by 
the waste gate and the overboost protection sensor.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] [OT] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE [dentistry]

[jwreames]

I hear thats not the only thing(s) that slide out easier when using M1.

But- I recommend sedation for that. I had mine done years ago with that method, 
awoke doped with lidocane (makes me high as a kite) and a prescription for 
tylox. Went home, took them and slept for 4 days. went back 2 weeks later so 
they could remove all the stitching; apparently they had some complications in 
the removal (looking at the zig-zag scars that run from the inside corners of 
my lips to the back of my mouth on the inside of each cheek) .. although It 
does seem that I am a little more prone to biting my cheeks now. 

I definitely wouldn't call that a DIY job!
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a 
> numbing agent. However it does tend to make people a bit loopy... 
> 
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Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 07:35:57 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE
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On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 09:12:49 -0500 "Levi Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles
> as a numbing agent.  However it does tend to make people a bit loopy...

That's where the synthetic blinker fluid comes in ...


Craig

Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires

[jwreames]

www.pgauto.com


-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Some misguided PO or brake shop *cut* the wires to the connector 
> blocks on my 300D. If they had bothered to look under the hood they 
> would have seen the in-line plugs that could have been separated 
> instead. 
> 
> I called Rusty to price replacement connector blocks, about $150 each. 
> They come from Mercedes, there is no OEM part available. A lot of $$ 
> just to have the indicator lamp tell me when the pads are worn. 
> 
> Of course the cuts were made just where the wire enters the connector 
> block, so resoldering is impossible. 
> 
> Allan 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Ford Diesels?
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Wasn't that the Mazda Pup?
-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Did in the eighties. IIRC, there were two mazda variants offered. Can't 
> remember if there was an option in the 4x4. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] defrost/heat questions (83 300SD
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It's the position of
the shaft the wheel moves that overrides the temp sensor.

Thanks for the clarification.  My original thought was that the sensor was 
overridden once the wheel hit the detent, but I didn't know why.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300sD 265K miles, Ursula 

Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires

[jwreames]

Umm... There are a couple of parts there; there are sensor wires- one inserted 
in each pad, that run to a connector block, these are trivial to replace; then 
there is the wiring harness, which has one end bolted to the caliper and the 
other end is somewhere in the bowels of the wiring harness within the vehicle.  
If a sensor wire was snapped, thats easy. If the other wire was destroyed 
ick.

-j.
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: Frozen Skunk
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Tomato juice.

-- Original message -- 
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> One of the members of the Ferrari list shared this - thought ya'll might 
> enjoy it - 
> 
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D) 
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts 
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil 
> PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net 
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs 
> Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/ 
> . 
> - Original Message - 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:04 PM 
> Subject: Fwd: Frozen Skunk 
> 
> 
> BEST ONE OF THE YEAR! -- Bubba 
> 
> 
> Subject: Frozen Skunk 
> 
> A man and his wife were driving home one very cold night when the wife 
> asks 
> her husband to stop the car. 
> 
> There was a baby skunk lying at the side of the road, and she got out 
> to see 
> if it was still alive. It was, and she said to her husband, "It's 
> nearly 
> frozen to death. Can we take it with us, get it warm, and let it go in 
> the 
> morning?" 
> 
> He says, "OK, Get in the car with it." 
> 
> The wife says, "Where shall I put it to get it warm?" 
> 
> He says, "Put it between your legs. It's nice and warm there." 
> 
> "But what about the smell?" said the wife. 
> 
> "Just hold its little nose." 
> 
> The man is expected to recover, but the skunk she used to beat him 
> with died 
> at the scene. 
> 
> 
>  
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security 
> tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions

[jwreames]

Thanks. I will try the water and see how it goes. I'm not sure there was a 
recall on them, but Rusty mentioned the part number has been incremented three 
times or so. I suspect that if the problem were in the metal section of the 
lines that there would be much more oil involved (but you never know). I do 
know that there is a plastic liner inside the "wheel housing", but I don't know 
if that is what you mean. I'll let you know how the mounts go, but I don't 
anticipate any problems. I do question the reliability of the hydraulic mounts 
(as compared to the rubber mounts with separate shocks).

-j.
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)


-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> j - I still like soapy water (just enough soap to keep it "slick" while you 
> assemble the parts) better than the CRC 2094, which from the data sheet you 
> cited has up to 35% petroleum gas. 
> The last time I checked (some time back), soapy water was what they used to 
> mount tires on rims - again, in reasonable quantities. 
> 
> If you are dealing with re-call oil cooler hose issues, then that may well 
> be a place to check for leaks. I know that on my '90, the hoses are fine, 
> but the grommet that they go through on the front frame rail tends to slip 
> and could allow some wear. I have also seen M-B Diesels that have had the 
> plastic stone shield inside the fender missing, which exposes the oil 
> radiator to debris from the front tire. 
> 
> Good luck on the mounts! 
> 
> Werner 
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Thread-Topic: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code
thread-index: Acc03m992MPbSn1HTQWBQZZdx5gTvQAB+MCQ
From: "Potter, Tom  E" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Sure. Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if this is a
vergasser).

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:38 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT : VW passat OBD2 code

  I have a 2001.5 Passat and I am getting a code of P0302 (cylinder 2
misfire) any suggestions on what could be the cause. Thanks

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Re: [MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions

[jwreames]

I am a little leery of soapy water; I had a bad experience with a w126 where I 
used soapy water on the bushings that attach the caster bushing bracket to the 
chassis; the bushings slipped back out of the casting!  The silicone spray I 
was thinking of is the CRC 2094 stuff

msds: http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/2094.pdf

I will remove the noise panel and stick my head up in there and see what is 
dripping.  I don't see any direct access to the cooler; the intake air is 
through the louver(s) in the bumper. Rusty mentioned that the hoses had been 
up-revved several times though, which made me suspect there was an issue with 
them.  I did notice that the hoses on the squeaky one look like they are quite 
new (ie have been replaced), which further supported that thought. Oh--the leak 
is "small"; maybe a quart in 3-5k miles, but it does eventually add up/pool up, 
and I dont want a catastrophic failure. Since this gets 1K/wk, the leak 
probably seems worse than it actually is (from the "slicks" under the car at 
work and at home).

I do know that there was an up-rev on the left engine mount (which is REALLY 
split wide open) that puts an EPDM "boot" over the top of the mount to protect 
it (presumably from fuel leaks). I have had them (on the leaky one) fail 
because the rubber was softened by diesel fuel (these are hydraulic type mounts 
btw).  From the feel of the thing (really really bad vibration) I suspect the 
left mount has been bad for some time which lead to the other mounts failing, 
so I was going to replace them all since it is not much more work.  The 
passenger side one is almost trivial to deal with. The driver side is a little 
more fuss, and MAY be easier if you remove the intake manifold.  From what I 
can see the transmission mount has maybe 8 bolts; ~4 bolts for crossmember to 
body, 2 for mount to crossmember and 2 more for mount to tranny, so that 
shouldn't be too much of an issue.

-j

1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> j - I would use plain old soapy water as a lube for slipping rubber parts on 
> metal. I'd recommend that you be careful of silicone sprays, as some have 
> petroleum components in the can mixture, which might be injurious to rubber. 
> 
> Your oil leak in front of the left front tire does sound like an oil cooler 
> issue. Rather than the hoses, which should be fairly robust (see below), I 
> would check the cooler itself, since it is built similar to a radiator and 
> could be nicked by hard/sharp objects thrown up by other vehicles. 
> 
> But I am really surprised that a '99 needs all those parts replaced! I know 
> that my '90 300D still has the original motor, tranny, and suspension rubber 
> pieces, and all still look and work OK. I did have a left rear half-shaft 
> CV joint get noisy, so replaced that, but even there, the boots were still 
> intact and not cracked. So my concern is this: has D-C changed their rubber 
> components so that they start to fail after only 7 years??? 
> 
> Werner 
> '90D 228k 
> '83SD 223k 
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From: "Tom Hargrave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" ,
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Vergasser vs. Diesel, was 87 TD for sale
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A trick you can use with carb cleaner - Spreay around the intake,
injectors & fittings. Any idle change indictes a leak.

Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com


Original Message
From: Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 01/10/07 10:59 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Su

Re: [MBZ] What kind of oil would I use for this?

[jwreames]

Wouldn't running a higher percentage helium mix further lighten the load 
resulting in impressive improvements in fuel economy?

Of course you must be running with german helium or your suspension could get 
all squirrely.

-j.
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)

From: "BillR" 
>I haven't noticed that blinker / headlight fluid effect so much, but if you 
> keep the air in all five tires changed on a regular basis [with a standard 
> 25% helium mix] you won't notice so many spurious noises interfering with 
 > your voice activated dictation using Dragon 9. 
 > BillR 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] defrost/heat questions (83 300SD
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I have found when the cabin sensor goes bad the AC will be cold on full
cold, heat hot when knob on full hot. Then depending on sensor failure mode
it will be hot or cold everywhere else. The one sensor I have replaced made
it hot at all times in the car except when the knob was on full cold. Thus
the full hot and full cold settings ignore in car sensor. If your car is hot
all the time, even on full cold then you should check mono valve. 

Your 83 has sunroof switch in the center of dash, later W126(87 or 88 on)
had sunroof switch at dome light. Thus your sensor will be the second one
Jim mentioned. 

The later W126s also had the back pop-up sunroof, which I personally prefer.


Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:06 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] defrost/heat questions (83 300SD

> Where would this sensor grill be in the ceiling?  I'll have to check 
> it out
> tomorrow to see what it's got.

Usually part of the dome light and sunroof switch assembly.  The
other locale is a grilled opening in the center top of the dash.
(And those usually have the foam hoses.)

-- Jim


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[MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions

[jwreames]

I have one in need of sway bar bushings and links. I have the parts, and it 
looks pretty straightforward, but I am wondering what lubricant you use for 
slipping the bushings over the bar. I havent been able to find "Naphtolen H"and 
was wondering if silicone spray lube (not che cheap stuff, but the good "food 
grade/NSF approved" stuff) would be OK.  It also needs engine and tranny 
mounts, I have them on order, and I know I can do the engine mounts in 1.5 hrs 
tops, but was wonderin
 
I have another that seems to have some oil leaking/weeping from in front of the 
driver front wheel. I know the oil cooler lives in that area, and would guess 
that it is probably the lines, so I was wondering if anyone has had any 
experience or has heard anything about this.

-j
1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions
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j - I would use plain old soapy water as a lube for slipping rubber parts on 
metal.  I'd recommend that you be careful of silicone sprays, as some have 
petroleum components in the can mixture, which might be injurious to rubber.

Your oil leak in front of the left front tire does sound like an oil cooler 
issue.  Rather than the hoses, which should be fairly robust (see below), I 
would check the cooler itself, since it is built similar to a radiator and 
could be nicked by hard/sharp objects thrown up by other vehicles.

But I am really surprised that a '99 needs all those parts replaced!  I know 
that my '90 300D still has the original motor, tranny, and suspension rubber 
pieces, and all still look and work OK.  I did have a left rear half-shaft 
CV joint get noisy, so replaced that, but even there, the boots were still 
intact and not cracked.  So my concern is this: has D-C changed their rubber 
components so that they start to fail after only 7 years???

Werner
'90D 228k
'83SD 223k

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:34 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 99 E300D (w210.025) questions


>I have one in need of sway bar bushings and links. I have the parts, and it 
>looks pretty straightforward, but I am wondering what lubricant you use for 
>slipping the bushings over the bar. I havent been able to find "Naphtolen 
>H"and was wondering if silicone spray lube (not che cheap stuff, but the 
>good "food grade/NSF approved" stuff) would be OK.  It also needs engine 
>and tranny mounts, I have them on order, and I know I can do the engine 
>mounts in 1.5 hrs tops, but was wonderin
>
> I have another that seems to have some oil leaking/weeping from in front 
> of the driver front wheel. I know the oil cooler lives in that area, and 
> would guess that it is probably the lines, so I was wondering if anyone 
> has had any experience or has heard anything about this.
>
> -j
> 1985 300d (223K "Gerta")
> 1991 Cherokee (149K "fishbowl")
> 1999 E300Dt (106K unnamed) (the squeaky one)
> 1999 E300Dt (140K unnamed) (the leaky one)

Re: [MBZ] Adblue/Bluetec question

[jwreames]

joy und happiness.

I wonder if they have these problems in texas where you can have dash ornaments?

BTW I was never in front of the guy, just behind, following at a "polite" 
distance, and as soon as there was a lane change the odor lessened. It totally 
dissapeared when the truck took an exit. I also wonder how the state troopers 
would take such a thing as "vehicle  tag  threw an object 
out of his window and it almost smashed my windshield" call at the very 
least you have littering, dunno about reckless endangerment etc. Good question 
for a lawyer/FOP member...

-j.

It would be nice if people were halfway polite, and even nicer if they knew 
what was in the drivers handbooks (ie 5mph under the limit in the left lane, 
driving in the fog/at night/with wipers on fast with no lights, forgetting to 
use their turn^H^H^H^Hmasculinity challenge indicators, swoop and stomp, that 
sort of thing...) 
-- Original message -- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> "j" asked about the odor was that of feline urine 
> 
> No it is from some "pee bomb human fluid" which spilled during the filling 
> process. The latest trick is to throw these "pee bombs" at cars for things 
> like 1. Just being on the road, 2. not accelerating fast enough or 3. not 
> going 90mph when being two inch tailgated.. 4. other reasons based on joy 
> and happiness. I know, I have been hit by two in the last six months on 
> the interstate in PA once I was able to finally get over and they passed me 
> on the left. One hit my windshield and for the life of me I do not know how 
> it did not break. 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adblkue/Bluetec question
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HTH = ??

On 1/5/07, Chuck Landenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> j,
>
> The preferred method for removing "avian waste deposits" from one's
> car is to place wet paper towels over the area letting the water
> "soften" said deposit.  After a "while" (duration unknown), lightly
> wipe the area and repeat as necessary.  This should be done as soon
> as possible after discovery.  Never scrub!
>
> If the area has discolored, then you probably waited too long before
> doing the above.   If you are in a "freeze zone", then use hot water
> and reduce the "while" time so the paper towel does not freeze to the
> paint surface.
>
> HTH and take care,
>
> Chuck
> Phoenix AZ
>
>
> On Jan 5, 2007, at 6:48 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > "j" asked about the odor was that of feline urine
> >
> > No it is from some "pee bomb human fluid" which spilled during the
> > filling
> > process.  The latest trick is to throw these "pee bombs" at cars
> > for things
> > like 1. Just being on the road, 2.  not accelerating fast enough or
> > 3. not
> > going 90mph when being two inch tailgated.. 4. other reasons based
> > on joy
> > and happiness.   I know,  I have been hit by two in the last six
> > months on
> > the interstate in PA once I was able to finally get over and they
> > passed me
> > on the left.  One hit my windshield and for the life of me I do not
> > know how
> > it did not break.
> >
> > Regards Tom Scordato
> > 1979 240D
> > - Original Message -
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: 
> > Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 9:31 AM
> > Subject: [MBZ] Adblkue/Bluetec question
> >
> >
> >> I was behind a freightliner the other day and noticed a peculiar
> >> smell from
> >> the exhaust (when I

Re: [MBZ] take over slk320AMG lease $0.10 per mile

[jwreames]

Sheesh, I'd have a tough time doing that; I'm only "good" for about 45k/yr.
-j.


-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Wow - I can see why such a lease is an expensive way to go. You're looking 
> at $3500 just to use this car for 5 months, then another $30,000 to 
> purchase? No way that any reasonable person can put on the remaining lease 
> miles on this car in those 5 months, so ten cents per mile ends up 
> realistically more like 50 or 60 cents... 
> 
> And its a 3 year old (going on 4 later this year) medium performance car - 
> having been replaced by the SLK55 AMG for a few years already!) The present 
> leaser really got taken to the cleaners, IMO - having driven the car so few 
> miles. Assuming it was a 24 month lease, that means its cost him around 
> $6/mile, + maintenance and operating expenses! 
> 
> Also, since when is an SLK a front wheel drive (FWD)?? Does anyone proof 
> read these items??? 
> 
> Werner 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Mitch Haley" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 6:20 AM 
> Subject: [MBZ] take over slk320AMG lease $0.10 per mile 
> 
> 
> > 
> http://www.leasetrade.com/find_a_lease/vehicle_detail.cfm?ID=1519&make_name1=Mer
>  
> cedes-Benz 
> > 
> > It's got 2100 miles on it, with 5 months remaining on the lease. 
> > 30k+ miles available to use in those five months. 
> 
> 
> ___ 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Removing Corroded Bleed Valves
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You are (or were in this case) using flared wrenches, right?  I learned a
long time ago to not even attempt most any brake fitting with a normal open
end wrench...

I'm sure at this point my dad would say something like "get the torch", I
would cringe at the though of how flammable brake fluid is, and then he
would spend 2-15 minutes on it and have it emerge without issue...

Levi (:

On 1/5/07, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Howdy!
> The bleed valves on the rear calipers of my 91 300D 2.5T are corroded
> so
> badly they will not unscrew.  Attempts to grab them with a vise-grips or
> similar results in the bleeders starting to collapse as they are turned.
>
> I haven't had any luck with easy-outs - last time I tried one it broke off
> inside the bleeder!  No fun there!
>
> So, what works?  What doesn't?
>
> Thx -
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
>
>
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>

[MBZ] Adblkue/Bluetec question

[jwreames]

I was behind a freightliner the other day and noticed a peculiar smell from the 
exhaust (when I wasn't behind it I didn't smell it)... the odor was that of 
feline urine Any chance that this is a result of a poorly tuned aqueous 
ammonia injection system (Adblue/bluetec) such as is used by the MBE900's in 
newer trucks?

Oh, and whats the preferred method for removal of avian fecal deposits from 
cars? (I know that prevention is much better, but Baltimore city gets kinda 
annoyed when you start popping an air rifle off to deal with feathered 
miscreants who have nothing better to do than "decorate" your vehicles.)

-j.

(See, no four letter words ;)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Gas vs. diesel prices?
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$2.49/gal this morning (Gasmart in VA, US15, just south of the Potomac)
-j.
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Subject: [MBZ] 1955 Gullwing - Apparently Found in Barn?
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http://www.astonmartin-lotus.com/inventory/index.php?page_function=detail&product_id=505

I'm afraid to even call and ask  any one want to lay odds and take
bets on the number of zeros?

-- 
Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil.

Re: [MBZ] CA Trip Questions

[JWREAMES]

Plugged prefilter will do the same thing. Almost got run over on I-70 because 
it wouldn't do more then 45 uphill. pulled over, reached in the ammo can for 
the spare and the 4-way, changed it out, and all was well. The old prefilter 
actually held vacuum (it would not drain!) due to algae deposits on it.

Prior to the change, the car actually ran pretty decently -- for the first 10 
miles after startup. Then it would lose power if you pushed it -- like you just 
took your foot off the pedal. At first I thought "ALDA tube" and then I 
realized that it was just not getting any fuel.

It is a pretty good idea to keep one of them in the car.
-- Original message -- 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sounds to me like your main cartridge fuel filter is clogging up, that would 
> kill top end power as you describe. Cool running, would definitely add 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] intermittent heat
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But it fast as the price has inflated from $26 in the past 3 years.



On 1/2/07, John W. Reames III <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 2 Jan 2007, Allan Streib wrote:
>
> > "Peter Frederick" writes:
> > "Easy fix" meaning replace the monovalve, or ... ?  It's not in
> > Rusty's online catalog, are they readily available?
>
> Repalce the insert. <$50 last I checked, do it with the car stone cold and
> the nose slightly downhill (driver side more so than passenger), and you
> wont lose a drop of coolant. Just remove the wiring harness and 4 small
> screws (DO NOT DROP THEM. You will probably have to order a new monovalve
> assembly to get them), then pull out the guts. Look at the new insert and
> you can figure out what you have to do... Oh yeah, carefully observe the
> orientation and location of all washers etc.
>
> ~10 min job on a cold car. ~10hr job on a hot car. (wait 9:50 for it to
> cool off, then proceed as a cold car)
>
> -j.
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] [OT] Of man and machine (silicon)

[jwreames]

The 4 series can be a pain to replace some of the paper path parts in, and it 
does not have a straight-through paper path but otherwise, I'm thinking 
W126. :)

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
> Those are great printers, aren't they? All the HP laser printers from 
> the original LaserJet up through the 4M were nearly bulletproof and easy 
> to fix when they did break. Parts and consumables are cheap, too, and 
> the printers can be had for a song at surplus stores and college 
> property auctions. 
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 28 22:17:31 2006
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Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2006 14:14:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Karl Wittnebel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] F**k?
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My mechanic just paid $10K for a total sheetmetal
restoration on his 1984 300TD with over 300K miles. Of
course it is in good shape mechanically. The car was
so rusty he had street signs in the floor wells.
Anyway she's like new now, and it looks like he would
come out all right if he sold it.

Maybe I'll do the same to mine. Certainly a more
practical restoration than a 190sl from a utility
standpoint.

Up in New England at the fancy yacht clubs you always
see one or two clattering around in relatively mint
condition - sort of a cult thing.

Karl in DC
1985 300TD 150K
1963 190D
1960 190SL

--- Rhonald Angelo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Mine was $30,000 and some change...I have the
> original window sticker.  If I 
> was in the market, I would bid..regardless of the
> current market...it is 
> still a gem from the mid 80's.  MB will never make
> anything as good as these 
> older ones again.
> 
> Rhonald
> 1985 300D
> 297,000 miles
> Black/Palomino
> 


__
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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Re: [MBZ] Salvage (OT)?

[jwreames]

That could be good too :)

I think my dad has a smallish rake yet, tho I havent gone digging in many 
years, and I'm not sure I would care to eat any that came out of the chesapeake 
bay.
-j.


-- Original message -- 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Well, I developed a taste for the "stuffies" - basically an empty, cleaned 
> half-shell, filled with diced and well seasoned Quahog and broiled or baked. 
> Werner 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "John W. Reames III" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 11:15 PM 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Salvage (OT)? 
> 
> 
> > On Wed, 27 Dec 2006, Werner Fehlauer wrote: 
> > 
> >> Good luck with Quahogs - I suspect that most of the USA doesn't even know 
> >> what they are! 
> > 
> > they taste good over linguini (in a white sauce of course!) 
> > =) 
> > 
> > -j. 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
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From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Of man and machine (silicon)
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Cool. I prefer firefox since it is largely the same on every platform. I did 
the 10.4 new install thing, first time the box booted it said that it found an 
update, 150+ MB, so I let it download, and it needed to reboot, came up 10.4.8. 
Way cool. I tossed on the X11 stuff for grins and have open [X] windows off the 
unix boxen on the mac. double cool. Emacs+font-lock-mode for perl code or shel 
script is too much like cheating... I'll take it :)

I'm still using wired, and since my wife is an accountant, she groks the 
importance of data security, she prefers wired just because its a bit harder to 
get the data over the air (Okay theres tempest, but someone really has to want 
your data, it is not like it is readily broadcast) Yep I know WPA is 
encrypted etc, but still she prefers wired, and its faster, so I just pulled in 
cable for her.

I'm still using an old HP LJ 4M+ at a liesurely 12ppm, and have a duplexer 
stuck on it (cheap compared to shelves!) as well as an envelope feeder (she 
does some envelope stuffing for mailing out to some group she belongs to) 
-- Original message -- 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> My son updated our 2003 iMac to OS 10.4 and added a wirelesscard and 
> another gig ?) of memory (?). It really motors now - love the Safari 
> too. 
> 
> Also picked up a Brother 5240 laser printer on ebay for under $200 
> that rocks - 30 ppm. 
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Re: [MBZ] Welding Stainless exhaust?

[jwreames]

Gee, thats funny. Guess what mine did about 10-15k mi ago?

The pipe itself is not stainless and totally rusted through all around where 
the muffler was welded to it. You could probably fill it in with enough 
material, but I'd think it would rust through pretty quickly now that it is 
already weakened.  B'sides Rusty will send you a new eberspaecher for $400... 
The clamp is captive on the pipe so you don't need to order a clamp.  It took 
me about a half hour to replace the pipe with the car parked straddling a curb. 

-j.
-- Original message -- 
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Does anyone know offhand what type of wire I should use for mig 
> welding the factory exhaust? This is on the 99 E300 at the rear 
> muffler. No rust, it just cracked off. Probably a bad weld to begin 
> with. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> -Dave Walton 
> 82 240D, 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
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> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
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Subject: [MBZ] Holy Photos Batman!
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http://www.mercedes300tdw124.com

Tim
1982 300TD (still for sale)
1991 300TE 4Matic

Re: [MBZ] "Christine"??? M.B. radio

[jwreames]

On my 1999 E300Dt, you can turn the radio on with the key out/off but it will 
only stay on for 30 mins at a clip.

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> > I think Jim was describing a radio that shuts itself off with the key, 
> > but you can turn it back on without the key. 
> 
> Exactly. You have to act to kill your own battery. Unless the 
> thing is broken and has a mind of its own, which may describe the 
> original poster's. 
> 
> -- Jim 
> 
> 
> ___ 
> http://www.okiebenz.com 
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ 
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
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From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thu Dec 21 14:59:59 2006
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Generator voltage spikes
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> I had a motor/generator repairman tell me of the time a contractor
> killed "every appliance in the house" when he had a non-center tapped
> genny and hooked it up like I do through the dryer outlet of a new
> home. He told me to see if I could run a light bulb off each side of
> the 240v outlet to test if it was safe. Do you know what he was
> talking about?

Yes.  This fellow had a 220V generator that did _not_ have a center
tap, which meant that unless the two 110V sides of the home's wiring
were _exactly_ balanced as to load (and they never, ever are) one
side was going to see more than 110V, and one less.  Up to and
probably including 200+V on one side.  Appliance death, except for
maybe a few computers and such that have the 100-250V universal
power supplies.  In this day of instant-on devices most are
rarely actually off, just on standby.  Oops.  And a surge protector
will do zero to protect against this, it's not a transient!

The exact same electrical disaster can befall _any_ typical home
if the center tap to the transformer is lost.

It'll happen fast.  As light bulbs and whatever burn out the load
on the high side goes down, making the voltage shoot up even more.
For extra credit have a heating appliance or something heavy on the
high side turn on making _it_ more heavily loaded, inverting the
situation and taking out the former low side.

-- Jim

[MBZ] 75 300d

[jwreames]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300D-1975-MERCEDES-BENZ-300D-DIESEL-DRIVES-GREAT-SOUTHERNCAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6330QQihZ009QQitemZ190063417331QQrdZ1

purty

-j.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?
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I'll be crossing my fingers for you!
-j.
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To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?
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Hey Werner,
Glad you found them - Lisle - that's the brand I bought - they evidently 
make a lot of semi-special tools.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?


> Larry et al: I stopped by the local indy parts store, 1.5 miles up the 
> road,
> and lo and behold, he had a 4 - pack of Lisle 12 point metric male bits,
> list just under $20, net $13, and they are guaranteed for life!  The set 
> had
> 1 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm 12 point bit, and each with a hex 1/2" drive end,
> about 4 inches long.  So this afternoon's project is to see how successful
> they will be in breaking loose those 16 year old Lock-Tight bolts!
>
> Many thanks for the suggestions to all
>
> Werner
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 8:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Correct tools for 124 half shaft?
>
>
>> Hi Werner,
>> The 2 pack of Torx tools I bought at NAPA are pretty useful - one works 
>> in
>> the door fasteners for one thing - can't recall where the others 
>> fasteners
>> are -- 
>>
>> I was surprised they were less th

Re: [MBZ] Wive's Preferences

[jwreames]

Would it make any sense to remove and re-torque the delivery valves on the IP? 
then to do a cranking with no injection lines attached (ie a spit test?)

-j.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hella Head Lights
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hi Tom!

i'd suggest starting with a good set of H4 'euro-code' lamps; truly=20
good quality lights are definitely worth the money, and you'll quickly=20
wonder why you didn't switch to a set of 'real' lights sooner!

i've used a variety of them over the last couple of decades in=20
multiple vehicles, and my preference has been for Cibi=E9 lamps with Osra=
m=20
Bulbs. (i'm using a set of Narva +50 bulbs in our 300D now that are=20
proving to be a close second.)
my issues with the Hellas we've tried are twofold; one is that the=20
high and low beam patterns are typically too far apart, so that if you=20
have the high beams aimed properly down the road, the low beams will not=20
project far enough forward. the second is that the lenses on the Hellas=20
seem to be more brittle; the H4 users in my family have had more Hella=20
lenses break than all others combined.
as for anything labeled Zenon/Xenon, i wouldn't spend *anything* for=20
it. most of what's advertised under the misuse of those terms isn't=20
appropriate, and some is actually detrimental. if you're using true H4=20
sealed bulb lamps, you have your choice of bulbs in a variety of Wattage=20
combinations already if you decide you need more than the typical=20
55/60W. (most people quickly find out that with proper lamps, they don't=20
need extra wattage like they thought they might.)

try what's been working for most of the rest of the world where they=20
weren't subject to the arcane absurdities of DOT lighting regulations=20
first, then see if you need to do anything else.   ;-)

this can can be a lot of help:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com


cheers!
e



[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Do allot of 1:00AM in the morning driving schlepping all over the North=
east=20
> with work.  Eyes are getting worse. Car is a 1979 240D.
> Anyone hook up these Hella lights with zenon bulbs on a 123 chassis?   =
If so=20
> is it a noticeable difference,  is it worth 87 smackers plus freight?
>
> Regards Tom Scordato=20
>
>  =20

[MBZ] I'm kinda sorta back from my absence

[jwreames]

Got a 1999 W210.025 [E300Dt] question. I get some ... "stumbling" at steady 
speed (even on cruise) on the highway in the 50-70mph range. I'll guess its 
about 1500-2600 RPM or so. It feels like a momentary loss of power. I am not 
getting a CEL. The filter is clean and new, the MAF is ~30k old. Im suspecting 
it is either one of the two "Pressure converters" (looks like a fancy expensive 
three-way solenoid valve to me!) that control the EGR and wastegate, or 
possibly a dirty/sticking EGR valve. I am going to pull the intake manifold and 
clean it and the EGR valve this weekend, but I was wondering if anyone could 
help shed some light on things for me, ie diagnosis suggestions. Oh yeah the 
thing has 137k on it right now (+1k/wk). It looks like some oily (blowby?) 
residue might be running down from the EGR valve (between the diaphragm housing 
and the valve body).  Oil consumption is ~1qt/7500 mi, but a little used diesel 
oil goes a LONG way! .. I suspect it may be the valve is EOL, but a
t $400 or so I dont want to hear that yet :) (at least I dont have to pay for 
labor and I can get the manifold off in ~10 mins and back on in 15.. :)

Also, is there any trick to keep those *&^&* nylon clips for the injection 
pipes to NOT break? every 15-20K i have to replace some of them


[OT below]
I had to go under the radar for a while (and miss Rusty-Q!) because work 
scheduled me to go through an 8 wk training curriculum- Cisco VoIP stuff. 
Anyhow, a week after finishing the curriculum, I managed to pass the three 
tests that the company wanted me to pass as well as two additional tests which 
means that I officially hold a CCVP (Cisco Certiffied Voice Professional) ... 
woo woo :) (If anyone decides to pursue it, CVOICE was the toughest test, and 
QoS the second hardest. CIPT and Gateways/Gatekeepers (no keymasters here!) 
were the easiest. The IPT troubleshooting test was kinda middlin.)

Thanks
-j.

1999 E300Dt (137K mi)
1985 300Dt (222K mi)
RIP 1984 300SD (249K mi, rear end drastically shortened)

Re: [MBZ] *sigh*

[jwreames]

There are also the Sargent-Keso and Medeco types... I'd say avoid "Best" locks-
The cylinders I have seen have two shear planes, one of which is the normal one 
and the other of which is for the "control" plane that allows the cylinder to 
be removed from the housing.  The cylinder has holes (at the bottom of the 
keyway) at the bottom of the control sleeve and the housing to allow pin 
removal or somesuch. It is possible to modify a torque wrench (put teeth on it) 
so that it engages the control sleeve as well as the keyway, but does not go 
into the cylinder housing, thereby eliminating the normal shear plane, leaving 
just the "control" plane to deal with. Actuating the control sleeve allows 
removal of the cylinder from the lock entirely (just turn and pull it out), and 
then it is simple to "unlock" things (straight screwdriver easy)

Also, most of the mechanical pushbutton locks will show wear on or around the 
buttons over the years, which makes it "easier" to guess (using three of the 
five, with wear showing, narrows it down to 6 combinations, 4 goes to 24, and 
all 5 is only 120 combinations, since each button can be used one time)

Of course you could go the HID card route =) 
Just mount it at the appropriate height, keep the card in your wallet, and 
sashay your tuckus past the reader when you have an armload ... Your wife can 
probably wave her purse past the reader and activate it. 

Did I mention that they are kinda tough to defeat?

-j



 -- Original message --
From: John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> On 6-Sep-06, at 9:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> >
> > BTW the lock in question is one of those fancy quickset "max" locks  
> > that use 6 pins and have spool and barrel pins in them. Took a  
> > locksmith about 3 mins (tops) to get in (without using a key).
> 
> Ah, there are locks which are *very* hard to pick
> http://www.abloy.com
> 
> The last time my wife managed to grab my house key, cause she  
> couldn't find her's then lock me out 2 hours before a business  
> airplane trip, I waited a bit and say fine, no problem there's a tool  
> shed full of power tools. 5 minutes with the 1/2 drill. She arrived  
> shortly before I left and left her to deal with the locksmith.
> 
> 
> John
> 1983 300TDt  368k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1990's 300TDt  175 Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1993 500SEL 180k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

[MBZ] W210 blower (Part 2)

[jwreames]

After disconnecting the climate control brains and finding the blower still 
ran, I dug through wiring diagrams. It looks like there is a tie point for 
circuit 30 in the drivers side, and the blower is directly connected to this. I 
could not find a fuse in that circuit; so the ONLY thing that is in the way of 
power getting to the blower is that regulator. This was a clear indication that 
it is the regulator that is putzed, even though this does not fit the "classic" 
symptoms of a borked regulator. 

I called Rusty, prepared to fork out $700, and was suprised to find that 1999 
contained the break point for the regulator change, and my car has the "new" 
part from the factory, so I "only" have to spend ~$165.  A different regulator 
design could very well explain why the failure mode seems atypical... I wonder 
if I will find that the heat sink is plugged or something. The new regulator is 
back to a porcupine type heat sink (I think the old one used part of the blower 
motor as a heat sink), and probably is in the airflow of the blower...

When I get the thing out, I'll let y'all know.

-j.
(1999 E300Dt, 132k) 

Re: [MBZ] *sigh*

[jwreames]

When I did a similar thing, I ended up calling a locksmith. Late at night. On a 
holiday. Yep, at $90/pop you learn REAL quick. (Okay normal daytime hours the 
cost is $40-$50 /pop)... With the kids, they will learn real quick when it 
comes out of the allowance, and if they don't, every third or so time they lose 
the keys, they get to pay for re-keying the affected locks (or replacing them). 
I guess I'm mean, but there is this thing called "responsibility" that needs to 
be learned.

Either that or get a copy of "steel bolt hacking" and work on some dexterity 
exercises :) 

We took another route: after that incident we started keeping a spare key 
outside the house, but we swapped with someone else in  the neighborhood, so if 
someone "found" the key outside our house and tried it, they would have no joy 
at all; they would need to know who we swapped it with.  Of course, for this 
you have to have neighbors whom you can trust.

BTW the lock in question is one of those fancy quickset "max" locks that use 6 
pins and have spool and barrel pins in them. Took a locksmith about 3 mins 
(tops) to get in (without using a key).

-j.

Re: [MBZ] W210 blower will not shut off

[jwreames]

Okay, got home early (Reston lost power!) 

Removed the control unit, disconnected it, plugged in the blower (key not in 
ignition), blower runs.

Started the car and ran through the onboard sensors (at idle), and here are the 
values
 1 76
 2 75
 3 75
 4 80
 5 116
 6 175
 7 15
 8 129
 9 40
10 0.8
11 1.1
12 4.2
20 11.4
21 42
22 00
23 32
24 130
40 164
41 85
42 08
43 136

Out of curiosity, what are the readings on 21 and 40-43 on your wife's E300Dt, 
and yeah I know they have no bearing on the problem, but I seem to recall that 
(on a gasser) the 21 value is rpm/100 or somesuch

-j.

 -- Original message --
From: "dave walton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Let me know if you want to compare any readings with one that does not
> have that problem. I can check in the evenings after my wife gets home
> (it's her daily driver).
> 
> -Dave Walton
> 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300
> 
> On 9/5/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 1999 E300Dt (132K mi)
> >
> > Even with the key out of the car the blower runs. I've removed the ACC 
> > control 
> fuses (4&7 up front) and no change. I have not tried removing the ACC unit 
> and 
> disconnecting it as I don't have radio keys at work.
> >
> > I'm thinking that this is a blown blower regulator. Any other ideas?
> > Thanks
> > -j
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] W210 blower will not shut off

[jwreames]

I have not been able to find a fuse that shuts off the blower. I checked the 
fuse map and tried all of the fuses listed for AC blower and the climate 
control system as well as the rest heater (you can have it use residual engine 
heat with the car off). No change. I don't have a wiring diagram for this, but 
is it possible that it gets essentially unfused power?

(just for S&G I tried pulling the 30A fuse in the front box and the 40A in the 
underseat box (The 40A was relavent to the residual heat function) and no 
change)

BTW the speed is constant with the car on irrespective of the setting of the 
speed control, and is constant with the car off. There is a slight change in 
speed between the two, which I am willing to attribute to the difference in 
voltage with the alternator spinning

-j.

[MBZ] W210 blower will not shut off

[jwreames]

1999 E300Dt (132K mi)

Even with the key out of the car the blower runs. I've removed the ACC control 
fuses (4&7 up front) and no change. I have not tried removing the ACC unit and 
disconnecting it as I don't have radio keys at work.

I'm thinking that this is a blown blower regulator. Any other ideas?
Thanks
-j

[MBZ] "Interesting" odometer reading

[jwreames]

(I hope no one suffers from triscadecaphobia)

('99 E300Dt)
-j.
<>

Re: [MBZ] DIY AC repair in modern times

[jwreames]

What I don't get is why R-290 is so bad when gassers have been converted to 
LPG... and where CNG is still used in vehicles?

How does the flammability of these substances compare to the flammability of 
gasoline?

-j.

Re: [MBZ] E320CDI Commercial

[jwreames]

I noticed it said "C/S", I'm guessing it was "Comfort/Sport" ?

This URL seems to confirm this.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/Followup/articleId=102283




 -- Original message --
From: Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> what is the button he presses towards the end? change the differential 
> gearing...some sort of super over-drive?

[MBZ] Diesel injector return hose

[jwreames]

I've noticed that the return hose for the OM615/6/7's and the OM606's appears 
to have the same ID, maybe a little thicker wall, and the cotton covering is a 
different color.. maybe a little "tighter" on the OM606 stuff... 

Does anyone know what the difference is? Is the "new" stuff made of viton 
versus Buna/Nitrile/"Normal" rubber?  (I recall reading that Mercedes switched 
to biodiesel resistant hoses in the 90's.. I'd think a 99 would use it) Can the 
new stuff be used on the older engines? (I'm temporarily using the "old" stuff 
on a newer engine because my lines were leaking badly, and I had the "Old" 
stuff around (~190mi/day))  Rusty says that the old stuff is 9.50/meter, where 
the new stuff is 4.00/meter.

John Reames
1999 E300Dt (his, 122,122 miles--see photo)
1985 300Dt (hers, 220k miles)
1984 300SD (Rip/bent, almost 200k miles)
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