Re: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread mitch--- via Mercedes

On 2022-04-02 23:09, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Yep.  I guess not bad for 225k miles.



First choice OE.
2nd choice probably Moog.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes

Yep.  I guess not bad for 225k miles.

On 4/2/2022 10:06 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Throw in the shocks grand total is around $872.  Geez, parts prices sure add up 
quick.

Less than the price of ONE new truck payment, for a $65,000 truck financed at 
0% for six years.

ONE.
PAYMENT.

Pretty much a bargain in my book.


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
> Throw in the shocks grand total is around $872.  Geez, parts prices sure add 
> up quick.

Less than the price of ONE new truck payment, for a $65,000 truck financed at 
0% for six years.

ONE.
PAYMENT.

Pretty much a bargain in my book.


Rick
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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
In case anyone is curious, to replace inner and outer tie rods, new 
upper control arms with bushings and ball joints, new lower ball joints, 
idler arm, pitman arm, steering shock, sway bar links is about $634.  
Throw in the shocks grand total is around $872.  Geez, parts prices sure 
add up quick.


On 4/2/2022 8:35 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

If the original equipment lasted 200k miles I would see if OE is available. 
Will it cost more? Yup. Is not doing the front end again in two years worth it? 
Yup. I once had a 3/4 ton GMC I rebuild the front end on. I used AutoZone 
Duralast parts. Lifetime warranty. I collected on the warranty 20k miles later 
and did part of the job again. I really do like repairing things, but I don't 
like doing a job twice because parts are junk.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: April 2, 2022 6:16 PM
To: davesl...@okiebenz.com; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: ka...@striplin.net
Subject: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

I have a set of Bilstein shocks on the way that are supposed to be here
Monday for the 02 Duramax with 225k miles.  I am sure nothing has ever
been done to the front end.  I am sure the shocks are original.  Anyway,
got it up on the lift today to take a look at it and get ready for the
shock replacement.  Looking at the front end appears at the very least
it needs upper ball joints and tie rods. Tomorrow I will go pry around
on it to see if the lower ball joints are loose but the boots are not
split.  Thats not to say they wont be soon.  Thinking I might need to
just go ahead and replace them also but it does require a lot more
disassembly than just the uppers.  Also need to see if the upper control
arm bushings have slop in them.  If so, probably will just replace the
whole control arm.  Anybody know what the good steering and suspension
parts are for these  Moog?  Something else?

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
If the original equipment lasted 200k miles I would see if OE is available. 
Will it cost more? Yup. Is not doing the front end again in two years worth it? 
Yup. I once had a 3/4 ton GMC I rebuild the front end on. I used AutoZone 
Duralast parts. Lifetime warranty. I collected on the warranty 20k miles later 
and did part of the job again. I really do like repairing things, but I don't 
like doing a job twice because parts are junk.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: April 2, 2022 6:16 PM
To: davesl...@okiebenz.com; mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: ka...@striplin.net
Subject: [MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

I have a set of Bilstein shocks on the way that are supposed to be here
Monday for the 02 Duramax with 225k miles.  I am sure nothing has ever
been done to the front end.  I am sure the shocks are original.  Anyway,
got it up on the lift today to take a look at it and get ready for the
shock replacement.  Looking at the front end appears at the very least
it needs upper ball joints and tie rods. Tomorrow I will go pry around
on it to see if the lower ball joints are loose but the boots are not
split.  Thats not to say they wont be soon.  Thinking I might need to
just go ahead and replace them also but it does require a lot more
disassembly than just the uppers.  Also need to see if the upper control
arm bushings have slop in them.  If so, probably will just replace the
whole control arm.  Anybody know what the good steering and suspension
parts are for these  Moog?  Something else?

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[MBZ] OT Truck front end parts

2022-04-02 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I have a set of Bilstein shocks on the way that are supposed to be here 
Monday for the 02 Duramax with 225k miles.  I am sure nothing has ever 
been done to the front end.  I am sure the shocks are original.  Anyway, 
got it up on the lift today to take a look at it and get ready for the 
shock replacement.  Looking at the front end appears at the very least 
it needs upper ball joints and tie rods. Tomorrow I will go pry around 
on it to see if the lower ball joints are loose but the boots are not 
split.  Thats not to say they wont be soon.  Thinking I might need to 
just go ahead and replace them also but it does require a lot more 
disassembly than just the uppers.  Also need to see if the upper control 
arm bushings have slop in them.  If so, probably will just replace the 
whole control arm.  Anybody know what the good steering and suspension 
parts are for these  Moog?  Something else?


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Re: [MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
I went ahead and ordered the Bilsteins. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 27, 2022, at 10:10 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I put Monroe strut packs on the Focus last time it needed doing. So far they 
> seem fine, FWIW.
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 27, 2022, at 10:32 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>> I recall getting some Monroe shocks at some point for my 87 Blazer.  
>> They worked, but I have no idea how long they would have gone for as the 
>> truck rusted out and I gave it away before putting a lot of miles on it.
>> 
>> --FT
>> 
>>> On 3/27/22 10:01 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> My 02 Duramax is WAY past due for shocks.  Has probably needed new 
>>> shocks the last 50k miles or more.  I do not drive the truck all that 
>>> often and simply don't think about it until the next time I drive it.  
>>> I know all about MB shocks, but does anyone have any ideas or 
>>> recommendations as far as shocks for 3/4 ton pickups?  I do not need 
>>> any heavy duty off road high dollar specialty shocks, just looking for 
>>> original ride quality I guess.  Gabriell, Monroe?  AC Delco?  All of 
>>> these seem to have several different models.  Want something that is 
>>> going to last and not blow out after a few k miles.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>> 
>> -- 
>> --FT
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
I put Monroe strut packs on the Focus last time it needed doing. So far they 
seem fine, FWIW.

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022, at 10:32 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> I recall getting some Monroe shocks at some point for my 87 Blazer.  
> They worked, but I have no idea how long they would have gone for as the 
> truck rusted out and I gave it away before putting a lot of miles on it.
>
> --FT
>
> On 3/27/22 10:01 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> My 02 Duramax is WAY past due for shocks.  Has probably needed new 
>> shocks the last 50k miles or more.  I do not drive the truck all that 
>> often and simply don't think about it until the next time I drive it.  
>> I know all about MB shocks, but does anyone have any ideas or 
>> recommendations as far as shocks for 3/4 ton pickups?  I do not need 
>> any heavy duty off road high dollar specialty shocks, just looking for 
>> original ride quality I guess.  Gabriell, Monroe?  AC Delco?  All of 
>> these seem to have several different models.  Want something that is 
>> going to last and not blow out after a few k miles.
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
> -- 
> --FT
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Since I now know you have a 5th wheel trailer, and surmise you will be
using said truck to pull it, I suggest you go the extra wallet mile for
premium shocks.
With a trailer loaded, 5th wheel camper, or full of cars, you really want
the truck to stay and obey on the road. Putting on the cheap quality shocks
will pay you back when you most need them to control the truck so you can
control the load.
And, don't forget to "torque your nuts" before you leave the shop.

On Sun, Mar 27, 2022 at 7:02 AM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> My 02 Duramax is WAY past due for shocks.  Has probably needed new
> shocks the last 50k miles or more.  I do not drive the truck all that
> often and simply don't think about it until the next time I drive it.  I
> know all about MB shocks, but does anyone have any ideas or
> recommendations as far as shocks for 3/4 ton pickups?  I do not need any
> heavy duty off road high dollar specialty shocks, just looking for
> original ride quality I guess.  Gabriell, Monroe?  AC Delco?  All of
> these seem to have several different models.  Want something that is
> going to last and not blow out after a few k miles.
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread mitch--- via Mercedes




Most if not all Gabriel and Monroe are probably to be considered 
disposable.

Delco Advantage too.

Delco Gold might work out OK, but I never understood why they made Gold 
when they were already making Original Equipment.


Delco OE will last like the originals did.
Bilstein are the good stuff, but for most applications hard to find in 
comfort tune and hard to live with in HD tune.


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Re: [MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
I recall getting some Monroe shocks at some point for my 87 Blazer.  
They worked, but I have no idea how long they would have gone for as the 
truck rusted out and I gave it away before putting a lot of miles on it.


--FT

On 3/27/22 10:01 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
My 02 Duramax is WAY past due for shocks.  Has probably needed new 
shocks the last 50k miles or more.  I do not drive the truck all that 
often and simply don't think about it until the next time I drive it.  
I know all about MB shocks, but does anyone have any ideas or 
recommendations as far as shocks for 3/4 ton pickups?  I do not need 
any heavy duty off road high dollar specialty shocks, just looking for 
original ride quality I guess.  Gabriell, Monroe?  AC Delco?  All of 
these seem to have several different models.  Want something that is 
going to last and not blow out after a few k miles.


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--
--FT
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[MBZ] OT truck shocks

2022-03-27 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
My 02 Duramax is WAY past due for shocks.  Has probably needed new 
shocks the last 50k miles or more.  I do not drive the truck all that 
often and simply don't think about it until the next time I drive it.  I 
know all about MB shocks, but does anyone have any ideas or 
recommendations as far as shocks for 3/4 ton pickups?  I do not need any 
heavy duty off road high dollar specialty shocks, just looking for 
original ride quality I guess.  Gabriell, Monroe?  AC Delco?  All of 
these seem to have several different models.  Want something that is 
going to last and not blow out after a few k miles.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck Wheel-Well Replacement Parts?

2021-04-25 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Depends on how old it is. If it's newer than 2010, I'd say the dealer. I'm sure 
there are online dealers that sell parts at a discount. If it's older, LMC 
parts would be a good place to look.

https://www.lmctruck.com/chevrolet

https://www.gmoutletparts.com/

https://www.chevroletonlineparts.com/

https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/cars/Chevrolet/car-parts.html

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: April 25, 2021 3:19 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: ml320@fiorentino.space
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Truck Wheel-Well Replacement Parts?


Hi:

I just had a request from my B-I-L for a source for rivet-on wheel well
replacement parts for a Chevy pickup.

He is out in Eastern LI NY.

Anybody know a good source for these parts?

TIA

Greg


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[MBZ] OT: Truck Wheel-Well Replacement Parts?

2021-04-25 Thread greg via Mercedes


Hi:

I just had a request from my B-I-L for a source for rivet-on wheel well
replacement parts for a Chevy pickup.

He is out in Eastern LI NY.

Anybody know a good source for these parts?

TIA

Greg


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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-24 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
Good points, thanks

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2021, at 10:26 PM, G Mann via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Add to your list dye check fluid and a black light. Once you replace O
> rings and all the other bits, you will want to pull a vacuum on the system
> to see if it is "Tight and sealed" ... dye check will help you find pesky
> leaks, like a hose that has broken down.. in fact.. if the system is old,
> very likely the flex hoses are the porus kind... new style replacement
> hoses are much better.. You might consider replacing hoses while you have
> it all opened up.
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 1:17 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Receiver-dryer?
>> 
>>> On 23/04/2021 3:08 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
>>> My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should
>>> fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be
>>> all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some
>>> compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.
>>> 
>>> Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
Add to your list dye check fluid and a black light. Once you replace O
rings and all the other bits, you will want to pull a vacuum on the system
to see if it is "Tight and sealed" ... dye check will help you find pesky
leaks, like a hose that has broken down.. in fact.. if the system is old,
very likely the flex hoses are the porus kind... new style replacement
hoses are much better.. You might consider replacing hoses while you have
it all opened up.

On Fri, Apr 23, 2021 at 1:17 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> Receiver-dryer?
>
> On 23/04/2021 3:08 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
> > My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should
> > fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be
> > all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some
> > compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.
> >
> > Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?
> >
>
>
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes



 How to change AC Compressor, Receiver Dryer and Orifice Tube - 1997
 GMC Sierra

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oSNem5YQJQ

On 4/23/21 4:44 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

yeah I'm watching a vid right now where the guy replaced the compressor and R-D 
and orifice tube.  I guess I should get those too.

Was the video sponsored by FLAPS, by any chance?

-- Jim


--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> yeah I'm watching a vid right now where the guy replaced the compressor and 
> R-D and orifice tube.  I guess I should get those too.

Was the video sponsored by FLAPS, by any chance?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
yeah I'm watching a vid right now where the guy replaced the compressor 
and R-D and orifice tube.  I guess I should get those too.


--FT

On 4/23/21 4:17 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

I think it's generally advised that any time you open the system you
should change the accumulator or receiver drier, whichever it has?

Allan

Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:


My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should
fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be
all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some
compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.

Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?


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--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
I think it's generally advised that any time you open the system you
should change the accumulator or receiver drier, whichever it has?

Allan

Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  writes:

> My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should 
> fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be 
> all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some 
> compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.
>
> Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?
>

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes


Receiver-dryer?

On 23/04/2021 3:08 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should 
fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be 
all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some 
compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.


Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?




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[MBZ] OT Truck AC

2021-04-23 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
My 96 Chebby truck AC has not worked for years, I am thinking I should 
fix it.  Advance Auto have the o-ring and gasket kit which looks to be 
all that are needed (wherever they go) for $7.  There might be some 
compressor seals too if that is leaking, I guess I would find out.


Are there any other bits I should change while I am doing the seals?

--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Clay via Mercedes
I have been looking at bottom feeder box truck for hauling #1 boy’s possessions 
from house we are selling to him in ND.  Pickem up and enclosed truck/van 
prices are still up there.  I do notice a number of commuter cars around the 
neighborhood that have not been moved for at least a year.  Everybody is camped 
at home with face diapers and not at work.  White privileged Tesla area, not 
“essential” workers around here.

SWMBA is in the market for a new car and is having a hard time not wanting to 
be stuck with generic red/white/black/grey.  She was told by one dealer that 
she could special order, but with the caramba virus and the chip shortage, the 
car in the color she wants would arrive around 2025.

Clay


inter urinas et faeces nascimur

> On Apr 18, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Maybe for bottom feeder scrap trucks. The semiconductor shortage is still 
> alive and well, and so is the shortage of new vehicles. My understanding is 
> that the display driver chips are what is in short supply. I could be wrong. 
> The lack of new inventory means more demand for near new or vehicles less 
> than three or so years old.
> 
> The bottom feeder cars seem to still be reasonable, although there is 
> probably some upward pricing pressure, due to government stimulus and 
> additional unemployment benefits.
> 
> Housing prices are through the roof too, due to increased lumber costs, pent 
> up demand, and a flight from urban areas. It will be an "interesting" next 
> several months.
> 
> 
> Rick

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Re: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Same with the Bluetec sedans - as of today more are on the market and
prices have tumbled.

On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 3:12 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Maybe for bottom feeder scrap trucks. The semiconductor shortage is still
> alive and well, and so is the shortage of new vehicles. My understanding is
> that the display driver chips are what is in short supply. I could be
> wrong. The lack of new inventory means more demand for near new or vehicles
> less than three or so years old.
>
> The bottom feeder cars seem to still be reasonable, although there is
> probably some upward pricing pressure, due to government stimulus and
> additional unemployment benefits.
>
> Housing prices are through the roof too, due to increased lumber costs,
> pent up demand, and a flight from urban areas. It will be an "interesting"
> next several months.
>
>
> Rick
>
> From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Sent: April 18, 2021 12:50 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: astr...@indiana.edu
> Subject: [MBZ] OT: truck prices
>
> I am seeing more reasonably priced pickup trucks on CL here these
> days. Has the bubble popped?
>
> Allan
>
> ___
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>
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>
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> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Maybe for bottom feeder scrap trucks. The semiconductor shortage is still alive 
and well, and so is the shortage of new vehicles. My understanding is that the 
display driver chips are what is in short supply. I could be wrong. The lack of 
new inventory means more demand for near new or vehicles less than three or so 
years old.

The bottom feeder cars seem to still be reasonable, although there is probably 
some upward pricing pressure, due to government stimulus and additional 
unemployment benefits.

Housing prices are through the roof too, due to increased lumber costs, pent up 
demand, and a flight from urban areas. It will be an "interesting" next several 
months.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: April 18, 2021 12:50 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: astr...@indiana.edu
Subject: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

I am seeing more reasonably priced pickup trucks on CL here these
days. Has the bubble popped?

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
No

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2021, at 12:50 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am seeing more reasonably priced pickup trucks on CL here these
> days. Has the bubble popped?
> 
> Allan
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I've noticed that too. In the last 2 weeks the tractor market has gotten a 
little less stupid too. I wonder if covid restrictions relaxing is opening up 
some supply.
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 1:50 PM, Allan Streib via 
Mercedes wrote:   I am seeing more reasonably priced 
pickup trucks on CL here these
days. Has the bubble popped?

Allan

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[MBZ] OT: truck prices

2021-04-18 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
I am seeing more reasonably priced pickup trucks on CL here these
days. Has the bubble popped?

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
Basically how I change power steering fluid.

On Tue, Jul 30, 2019, 10:40 Allan Streib via Mercedes 
wrote:

> Mitch Haley via Mercedes  writes:
>
> > I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
> > Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily
> replaceable filter).
> > Fill or slightly overfill.
> > Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose.
> > Start and idle the car.
> > When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more
> in.
> > When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust
> fluid level as required.
>
> Was going to suggest similar. Depending on the car you might need to
> shift through R-N-D when idling to get the fluid circulating.
>
> When I changed fluid in my Volvo this spring, I did the drain/fill x 3
> method, driving a bit between drains to fully circulate the fluid. That
> took a while, but by the third draining the fluid was substantially
> cleaner.
>
> Honda recommends the repeated drain/fill approach also.
>
> You don't want to use "cheap" fluid for any of the fills in that method,
> since some portion of it will remain. Use the manufacturer recommended
> fluid. It seems somewhat wasteful but has the advantage of not messing
> with cooler lines, where there always the chance of causing damage, or
> introducing dirt into the system. That said, I will probably try it next
> time since it should use a lot less fluid and save some time.
>
> Allan
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
I was thinking to pull the pan and put in a drain plug to make it easier 
the next time(s).  I did that some years ago on my 87 Blazer, made 
draining the fluid a breeze, no tranny fluid bath when dropping the pan.


Yes I would def use the recommended fluid, just thinking that buying 
some bulk stuff might be a bit cheaper, though good fluid is cheaper 
than a transmission fosho.


--FT

On 7/30/19 10:57 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

I’ve heard/seen this approach and it makes sense. However, you would need to be 
sure to have the correct line disconnected and have a helper to start/stop the 
engine, asa LOT fluid moves through those lines.

The drain/fill approach works as well, although it’s a bit more time and labor 
intensive. By the time you’ve done it three times, the volume of old fluid is 
so low to be insignificant.

-D


On Jul 30, 2019, at 10:39 AM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
wrote:

Mitch Haley via Mercedes  writes:


I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
replaceable filter).
Fill or slightly overfill.
Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose.
Start and idle the car.
When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust fluid 
level as required.

Was going to suggest similar. Depending on the car you might need to
shift through R-N-D when idling to get the fluid circulating.

When I changed fluid in my Volvo this spring, I did the drain/fill x 3
method, driving a bit between drains to fully circulate the fluid. That
took a while, but by the third draining the fluid was substantially
cleaner.

Honda recommends the repeated drain/fill approach also.

You don't want to use "cheap" fluid for any of the fills in that method,
since some portion of it will remain. Use the manufacturer recommended
fluid. It seems somewhat wasteful but has the advantage of not messing
with cooler lines, where there always the chance of causing damage, or
introducing dirt into the system. That said, I will probably try it next
time since it should use a lot less fluid and save some time.

Allan

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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
OK Don via Mercedes  writes:

> I'm guessing here, but if you disconnect a line, fluid will either
> come out of it, or the fitting you removed it from - just be prepared
> to collect the old fluid at both places, and it should work out fine
> ???

I'd say you want to disconnect the return line from the cooler, so the
fluid in the cooler is flushed as well.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
I'm guessing here, but if you disconnect a line, fluid will either come out
of it, or the fitting you removed it from - just be prepared to collect the
old fluid at both places, and it should work out fine ???

On Tue, Jul 30, 2019 at 9:58 AM Dan--- via Mercedes 
wrote:

> I’ve heard/seen this approach and it makes sense. However, you would need
> to be sure to have the correct line disconnected and have a helper to
> start/stop the engine, asa LOT fluid moves through those lines.
>
>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread Dan--- via Mercedes
I’ve heard/seen this approach and it makes sense. However, you would need to be 
sure to have the correct line disconnected and have a helper to start/stop the 
engine, asa LOT fluid moves through those lines.

The drain/fill approach works as well, although it’s a bit more time and labor 
intensive. By the time you’ve done it three times, the volume of old fluid is 
so low to be insignificant.

-D

> On Jul 30, 2019, at 10:39 AM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mitch Haley via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
>> Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
>> replaceable filter).
>> Fill or slightly overfill.
>> Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose. 
>> Start and idle the car. 
>> When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
>> When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust 
>> fluid level as required.
> 
> Was going to suggest similar. Depending on the car you might need to
> shift through R-N-D when idling to get the fluid circulating.
> 
> When I changed fluid in my Volvo this spring, I did the drain/fill x 3
> method, driving a bit between drains to fully circulate the fluid. That
> took a while, but by the third draining the fluid was substantially
> cleaner.
> 
> Honda recommends the repeated drain/fill approach also.
> 
> You don't want to use "cheap" fluid for any of the fills in that method,
> since some portion of it will remain. Use the manufacturer recommended
> fluid. It seems somewhat wasteful but has the advantage of not messing
> with cooler lines, where there always the chance of causing damage, or
> introducing dirt into the system. That said, I will probably try it next
> time since it should use a lot less fluid and save some time.
> 
> Allan
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-30 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Mitch Haley via Mercedes  writes:

> I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
> Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
> replaceable filter).
> Fill or slightly overfill.
> Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose. 
> Start and idle the car. 
> When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
> When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust fluid 
> level as required.

Was going to suggest similar. Depending on the car you might need to
shift through R-N-D when idling to get the fluid circulating.

When I changed fluid in my Volvo this spring, I did the drain/fill x 3
method, driving a bit between drains to fully circulate the fluid. That
took a while, but by the third draining the fluid was substantially
cleaner.

Honda recommends the repeated drain/fill approach also.

You don't want to use "cheap" fluid for any of the fills in that method,
since some portion of it will remain. Use the manufacturer recommended
fluid. It seems somewhat wasteful but has the advantage of not messing
with cooler lines, where there always the chance of causing damage, or
introducing dirt into the system. That said, I will probably try it next
time since it should use a lot less fluid and save some time.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread Russ Williams via Mercedes

FT here's an article on Wallet Flushes, Ooops I meant transmission flushes.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/238

Russ W

On 7/29/2019 12:13 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

I need to change the trans fluid in my truck. Has about 120kmi so quite 
overdue. I don’t recall changing it but I might have at some point.

I see it takes 5qt for a filter change but 11qt if the TC is drained. Of course 
there is no direct way to drain the TC. So I’m wondering if the best way to 
clean it out is to buy some cheap bulk fluid, dexron or whatever, then run a 
coupla drains and refills through before I put in the new filter then another 
dose of clean fluid. That would dilute the old stuff pretty well but unless I 
used “better” fluid to do the process it would get diluted quite a bit on just 
the last fill.

What do shops do when they flush and refill?  Some kind of machine that somehow 
can flush out the TC?  How does that work?  Are there some kind of fittings?

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
Thanks. Sounds good. I should do that. 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2019, at 9:18 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
> Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
> replaceable filter).
> Fill or slightly overfill.
> Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose. 
> Start and idle the car. 
> When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
> When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust fluid 
> level as required.
> 
> ___
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> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes


I got this method from a Ford factory manual in the 1990s.
Drain and change filter, if applicable (my Cruze doesn't have a readily 
replaceable filter).
Fill or slightly overfill.
Unhook cooler line and connect to a clear vinyl hose. 
Start and idle the car. 
When you've pumped out almost as much as you put in, stop and put more in.
When the fluid in the clear hose gets suddenly cleaner, stop and adjust fluid 
level as required.

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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Last time I had quickie lube change the trans-fluid in the Dakota was quite 
awhile ago but they used a thing that attached to the cooler lines. Start the 
truck and it (the transmission in the truck I mean) pumped new fluid in and old 
fluid out. Seemed like a legit way to do things if you knew which connector was 
which at the cooler.
They didn't do the filter at the time which I realized later was a bad idea. 
These days I've got a guy who does it. He saves the old fluid for me which gets 
a second life in the grooming machines...

-Curt

On Monday, July 29, 2019, 1:31:28 PM EDT, G Mann via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 The shop transmission flush machines I have seen connect into the
transmission cooler lines and suck the fluid out while pumping clean fluid
in, to somehow magically swap out the old tired fluid for fresh new
fluid... somewhere in the mix, a new trans filter is installed and pan
gasket, etc...

These machines are pretty expensive, even used, so the shop charge for this
level of service is pretty spendy, from what I've seen.
Might be cheaper to just do a pan drop and drain, new filter, fresh
fluid then do another repeat in 5,000 miles.. until the trans fluid
shows "fresh"

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 10:14 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I need to change the trans fluid in my truck. Has about 120kmi so quite
> overdue. I don’t recall changing it but I might have at some point.
>
> I see it takes 5qt for a filter change but 11qt if the TC is drained. Of
> course there is no direct way to drain the TC. So I’m wondering if the best
> way to clean it out is to buy some cheap bulk fluid, dexron or whatever,
> then run a coupla drains and refills through before I put in the new filter
> then another dose of clean fluid. That would dilute the old stuff pretty
> well but unless I used “better” fluid to do the process it would get
> diluted quite a bit on just the last fill.
>
> What do shops do when they flush and refill?  Some kind of machine that
> somehow can flush out the TC?  How does that work?  Are there some kind of
> fittings?
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
The shop transmission flush machines I have seen connect into the
transmission cooler lines and suck the fluid out while pumping clean fluid
in, to somehow magically swap out the old tired fluid for fresh new
fluid... somewhere in the mix, a new trans filter is installed and pan
gasket, etc...

These machines are pretty expensive, even used, so the shop charge for this
level of service is pretty spendy, from what I've seen.
Might be cheaper to just do a pan drop and drain, new filter, fresh
fluid then do another repeat in 5,000 miles.. until the trans fluid
shows "fresh"

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 10:14 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I need to change the trans fluid in my truck. Has about 120kmi so quite
> overdue. I don’t recall changing it but I might have at some point.
>
> I see it takes 5qt for a filter change but 11qt if the TC is drained. Of
> course there is no direct way to drain the TC. So I’m wondering if the best
> way to clean it out is to buy some cheap bulk fluid, dexron or whatever,
> then run a coupla drains and refills through before I put in the new filter
> then another dose of clean fluid. That would dilute the old stuff pretty
> well but unless I used “better” fluid to do the process it would get
> diluted quite a bit on just the last fill.
>
> What do shops do when they flush and refill?  Some kind of machine that
> somehow can flush out the TC?  How does that work?  Are there some kind of
> fittings?
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> ___
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[MBZ] OT truck trans fluid

2019-07-29 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
I need to change the trans fluid in my truck. Has about 120kmi so quite 
overdue. I don’t recall changing it but I might have at some point. 

I see it takes 5qt for a filter change but 11qt if the TC is drained. Of course 
there is no direct way to drain the TC. So I’m wondering if the best way to 
clean it out is to buy some cheap bulk fluid, dexron or whatever, then run a 
coupla drains and refills through before I put in the new filter then another 
dose of clean fluid. That would dilute the old stuff pretty well but unless I 
used “better” fluid to do the process it would get diluted quite a bit on just 
the last fill. 

What do shops do when they flush and refill?  Some kind of machine that somehow 
can flush out the TC?  How does that work?  Are there some kind of fittings?

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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[MBZ] OT truck pic of the day

2017-04-15 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
http://www.dumpaday.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/funny-pictures-56.jpg

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[MBZ] OT Truck

2013-10-07 Thread Randy Bennell

Sticker in the window says truck was built in Dearborn.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT Truck

2013-10-07 Thread WILTON

'Reminds me - I had a Dodge van years ago built in Windsor, ON.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2013 2:39 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT Truck



Sticker in the window says truck was built in Dearborn.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-21 Thread Curt Raymond
I didn't notice the typo (obviously) until this morning and wondered who would 
catch it.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 20:36:53 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 20130920203653.896997eb7477557977099...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Fri, 20 Sep 2013 18:46:37 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Sure you could, plug it in. I drove a 240D one summer where we hit -20F
 every morning for a whole week, thats -28C, close enough for government
 work.

If you hit -20F during summer, I'd hate to see what your winters are like!


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-21 Thread OK Don
They run at higher temps than a water cooled engine, and run at a higher
percentage of maximum power most of the time.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 8:11 PM, Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.comwrote:

 Why is such heavy oil used in recip aircraft engines?
 Gerry

 From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

 I don't intend to find out!
 I did help Dad start a Jacobs R755 radial engine with 50 wt oil in it at
 -30F once though - it took about two hours of a large kerosene space
 heater
 blowing on it before we could turn the prop, much less start it.





-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
I'm in New England but close enough to the ocean it doesn't get all that cold 
for all that long. We'll hit -20F one morning every other year or so. I've been 
driving a diesel car for the past 10 years and the only time I had trouble with 
not having enough interior heat was the time the fan died on the way to work. 
That was a cold ride...
Mike is in upstate New York, probably colder there than here.


There must be plenty of working type people around you with diesel trucks and 
of course all semi-trucks are diesels. If they didn't have cabin heat people 
wouldn't use them. You must see the grill blockers around a lot. At one point 
Ford made cool (well I thought they were cool) plastic inserts for the grills 
on their trucks. This would have been in the '90s when the grill had big holes. 
You could put in as many inserts as you needed to keep the engine warm. Pretty 
invisible in use unlike a blanket or piece of cardboard. 


I suspect one big advantage in more recent years is higher temp thermostats, 
the engine is producing heat, as long as you're not wasting it out to the 
radiator you'll be able to have it in the cab.

-Curt


Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 10:49:18 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey
Message-ID: 523b1cfe.6010...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

On 18/09/2013 3:31 PM, Fmiser wrote:
 Curt wrote:

 You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20
 isn't that much more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.

 In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old
 truck you've driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel
 truck person. A diesel person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.
 I disagree here. *smiles*  A diesel person is one who chooses to
 drive a diesel.  Someone using economics only for making a purchase
 choice may need to drive that much per year to make diesel a good
 choice.

 A true diesel person will buy and drive diesel powered vehicles
 even if it cost me more to do so.  That's me. *grin*  Money is a
 factor in my choice, but it is not the primary factor.

 --          Philip, diesel fan


Where are you Philip?

Any of you folks in colder climates? New Englanders maybe?

I am wondering how well the diesel trucks produce heat.
I am hearing stories around here that suggest they don't produce good 
heat in winter.

Randy who lives in the GWN
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Theres just not that much mass in the engine... I've noticed that mine takes a 
long time to heat up. I'm having the water pump changed next week, maybe I 
should have the thermostat done too. Considering the amount of stuff I'm having 
done it won't add much more money ;)

Timing belt
water pump
the seals around the timing belt plus tensioners and whatnot
coolant flush and fill with proper VW G12
Shifter bushings

This is of course what I get for buying a car with no history.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 11:22:03 -0600
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID:
    cacncphmmq1ynajfegjtw7u2ywh0zyfmpmenxycfrvdvvz2p...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

In general its OK.  My 2000 Jetta was hard to warm up on the coldest days
even in Nashville.  And on those same coldest days once it was at operating
temperature it would drop down some at traffic lights!  but it was a real
fuel miser, 50 MPG at 75 MPH was not uncommon.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell

I have commented on this before so hope I don't bore anyone.

My neighbor accross the lane has a Golf TDI.
The first winter, he took it to the dealer to have seat heaters 
installed because the car did not produce sufficient heat to keep them warm.


He says that is understandable. He is a retired Physics professor and 
says that vehicles that make really good fuel mileage are not as likely 
to produce good heat. He says that burning fuel is converting one form 
of energy to another and if one burns lots of fuel then one generally 
creates a lot of heat as part of that conversion.


Thus the old cast iron V8 blocks of our youth used a lot of fuel but 
made and retained heat well.


Modern engines have so much aluminum etc that they also dispel the heat 
better. Not so good when we need heat.
One of the things I see touted for one of the new pickup trucks is 
active shutters that close off the grill when the temperature sensors 
say they don't need the airflow.


Randy

On 20/09/2013 12:57 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Theres just not that much mass in the engine... I've noticed that mine takes a 
long time to heat up. I'm having the water pump changed next week, maybe I 
should have the thermostat done too. Considering the amount of stuff I'm having 
done it won't add much more money ;)

Timing belt
water pump
the seals around the timing belt plus tensioners and whatnot
coolant flush and fill with proper VW G12
Shifter bushings

This is of course what I get for buying a car with no history.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 11:22:03 -0600
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID:
 cacncphmmq1ynajfegjtw7u2ywh0zyfmpmenxycfrvdvvz2p...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

In general its OK.  My 2000 Jetta was hard to warm up on the coldest days
even in Nashville.  And on those same coldest days once it was at operating
temperature it would drop down some at traffic lights!  but it was a real
fuel miser, 50 MPG at 75 MPH was not uncommon.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Frederick Moir
What was old is new again!
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca


One of the things I see touted for one of the new pickup trucks is 
active shutters that close off the grill when the temperature sensors 
say they don't need the airflow.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
He can't wire a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator? Or at least 
covering one of the fans?

He's right of course, it'll be interesting to see how mine is this winter.

They sell a coolant heater specifically for the TDI, 1000w he'd at least be 
able to start his commute warm.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 13:52:17 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 523c9961.5050...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I have commented on this before so hope I don't bore anyone.

My neighbor accross the lane has a Golf TDI.
The first winter, he took it to the dealer to have seat heaters 
installed because the car did not produce sufficient heat to keep them warm.

He says that is understandable. He is a retired Physics professor and 
says that vehicles that make really good fuel mileage are not as likely 
to produce good heat. He says that burning fuel is converting one form 
of energy to another and if one burns lots of fuel then one generally 
creates a lot of heat as part of that conversion.

Thus the old cast iron V8 blocks of our youth used a lot of fuel but 
made and retained heat well.

Modern engines have so much aluminum etc that they also dispel the heat 
better. Not so good when we need heat.
One of the things I see touted for one of the new pickup trucks is 
active shutters that close off the grill when the temperature sensors 
say they don't need the airflow.

Randy
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
A guy on TDI club said the same thing but its a car with an unknown history. If 
I get 6 months down the road and have to replace the water pump the timing belt 
has to come out anyway and I'm gonna be pissed. Might as well piggyback on 
labor already being done. Gonna have the coolant flushed and replaced too. Its 
probably only 25% coolant 75% water right now, the coolant distribution pipe 
was leaking and I didn't have any G12 to put in when I refilled.

Which reminds me, tomorrow is oil change day.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 13:18:09 -0600
From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID:
    CACnCPhmghNDnn=9AChj1oMkjUegt6r5_pkYC6ysTyf_LLPLW=g...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

the water pump is not timing belt driven on the A3.  on the A4 it is.  if
its not leaking it may not be necessary to replace, but if the coolant is
skunky and you're in there anyway...
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell
Probably more likely because the USA has a reasonably warm climate 
throughout much of it.

Esp CA which accounted for a whole lot of vehicles sold.
Not needed there, so the poor folks who lived in places like Chicago 
were ignored.


Randy

On 20/09/2013 3:21 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

Provincialism?
  
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


On 20/09/2013 3:12 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile louvers 
and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.
Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in the 
radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, controlled 
by a chain from the drivers seat.
   
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.



So, why have things like this been so slow in coming to us?

Randy



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Frederick Moir
Wilton.
Any favorite engine (s) ?
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 

J-47 engines on B-47E's.  ;)
'Also had GE, Studebaker and Packard engines - sometimes on same airplane.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Back in the teens and '20s International Harvester offered shutters on tractors 
setup to burn kerosene. Extra heat was required at the intake manifold to 
vaporize the kerosene (which was really stove oil not what we think of as 
kerosene). Later models I believe had some kind of thermostat system to open 
and close the shutters to stay in the optimal temperature range.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 14:58:53 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 523ca8fd.7090...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is 
something that has been done on pickup trucks.

Randy

On 20/09/2013 2:45 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:
 What was old is new again!
  
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell

They don't include 6 cyl MB diesels!

Randy

On 20/09/2013 3:45 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

Wilton.
Any favorite engine (s) ?
  
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.






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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread WILTON
TF-33 on B-52H's (lot better ones with much more power now, though) and OM 
603.960 (maybe, better now, too)


Wilt

- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


Wilton.
Any favorite engine (s) ?

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


J-47 engines on B-47E's. ;)
'Also had GE, Studebaker and Packard engines - sometimes on same airplane.

Wilton



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread WILTON

'They don't incl OM 603.970.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie



They don't include 6 cyl MB diesels!

Randy

On 20/09/2013 3:45 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

Wilton.
Any favorite engine (s) ?
  
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.






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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Brian Toscano
In general its OK.  My 2000 Jetta was hard to warm up on the coldest days
even in Nashville.  And on those same coldest days once it was at operating
temperature it would drop down some at traffic lights!  but it was a real
fuel miser, 50 MPG at 75 MPH was not uncommon.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 6:29 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I'm in New England but close enough to the ocean it doesn't get all that
 cold for all that long. We'll hit -20F one morning every other year or so.
 I've been driving a diesel car for the past 10 years and the only time I
 had trouble with not having enough interior heat was the time the fan died
 on the way to work. That was a cold ride...
 Mike is in upstate New York, probably colder there than here.


 There must be plenty of working type people around you with diesel trucks
 and of course all semi-trucks are diesels. If they didn't have cabin heat
 people wouldn't use them. You must see the grill blockers around a lot. At
 one point Ford made cool (well I thought they were cool) plastic inserts
 for the grills on their trucks. This would have been in the '90s when the
 grill had big holes. You could put in as many inserts as you needed to keep
 the engine warm. Pretty invisible in use unlike a blanket or piece of
 cardboard.


 I suspect one big advantage in more recent years is higher temp
 thermostats, the engine is producing heat, as long as you're not wasting it
 out to the radiator you'll be able to have it in the cab.

 -Curt


 Date: Thu, 19 Sep 2013 10:49:18 -0500
 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey
 Message-ID: 523b1cfe.6010...@bennell.ca
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 On 18/09/2013 3:31 PM, Fmiser wrote:
  Curt wrote:
 
  You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20
  isn't that much more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.
 
  In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old
  truck you've driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel
  truck person. A diesel person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.
  I disagree here. *smiles*  A diesel person is one who chooses to
  drive a diesel.  Someone using economics only for making a purchase
  choice may need to drive that much per year to make diesel a good
  choice.
 
  A true diesel person will buy and drive diesel powered vehicles
  even if it cost me more to do so.  That's me. *grin*  Money is a
  factor in my choice, but it is not the primary factor.
 
  --  Philip, diesel fan
 
 
 Where are you Philip?

 Any of you folks in colder climates? New Englanders maybe?

 I am wondering how well the diesel trucks produce heat.
 I am hearing stories around here that suggest they don't produce good
 heat in winter.

 Randy who lives in the GWN
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Brian Toscano
the water pump is not timing belt driven on the A3.  on the A4 it is.  if
its not leaking it may not be necessary to replace, but if the coolant is
skunky and you're in there anyway...


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 11:57 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Theres just not that much mass in the engine... I've noticed that mine
 takes a long time to heat up. I'm having the water pump changed next week,
 maybe I should have the thermostat done too. Considering the amount of
 stuff I'm having done it won't add much more money ;)

 Timing belt
 water pump
 the seals around the timing belt plus tensioners and whatnot
 coolant flush and fill with proper VW G12
 Shifter bushings

 This is of course what I get for buying a car with no history.

 -Curt

 Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 11:22:03 -0600
 From: Brian Toscano brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 Message-ID:
 cacncphmmq1ynajfegjtw7u2ywh0zyfmpmenxycfrvdvvz2p...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 In general its OK.  My 2000 Jetta was hard to warm up on the coldest days
 even in Nashville.  And on those same coldest days once it was at operating
 temperature it would drop down some at traffic lights!  but it was a real
 fuel miser, 50 MPG at 75 MPH was not uncommon.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread OK Don
I don't intend to find out!

I did help Dad start a Jacobs R755 radial engine with 50 wt oil in it at
-30F once though - it took about two hours of a large kerosene space heater
blowing on it before we could turn the prop, much less start it.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 4:03 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 I don't have to worry about that with my 115. When it gets really cold, I
 would never get it to start.

 I wonder how well the Passat would do when it is minus 30?

 Randy



-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread WILTON

J-47 engines on B-47E's.  ;)
'Also had GE, Studebaker and Packard engines - sometimes on same airplane.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


Wilton.
Aircraft or automobile or fire-truck or ground power unit or?

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:15 PM

Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


My Rolls didn't have any stinkin' slats. ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile 
louvers and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.

Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in 
the radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, 
controlled by a chain from the drivers seat.


Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is
something that has been done on pickup trucks.

Randy



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell
I don't have to worry about that with my 115. When it gets really cold, 
I would never get it to start.


I wonder how well the Passat would do when it is minus 30?

Randy

On 20/09/2013 4:01 PM, OK Don wrote:

Excatly what I did with the W115 cars, both the 220D and the 300D. Haven't
needed to since I moved to the newer chassis though. They seemed able to
heat the cabin just fine, whether it was 0F or 110F outside :-)

The Passat TDI warms up quickly in the cold, and keeps us plenty warm -
small, fuel efficient engine produces plenty of heat even at 0F.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

When we lived in the Black Forest area north of Colorado Springs and had

a spell of cold with temperatures down to -23 deg.F., I put a piece of
cardboard between the A/C condenser and the radiator. It worked just fine.


Craig







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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell

On 20/09/2013 3:12 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile louvers 
and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.
Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in the 
radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, controlled 
by a chain from the drivers seat.
  
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.



So, why have things like this been so slow in coming to us?

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread OK Don
Excatly what I did with the W115 cars, both the 220D and the 300D. Haven't
needed to since I moved to the newer chassis though. They seemed able to
heat the cabin just fine, whether it was 0F or 110F outside :-)

The Passat TDI warms up quickly in the cold, and keeps us plenty warm -
small, fuel efficient engine produces plenty of heat even at 0F.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

When we lived in the Black Forest area north of Colorado Springs and had
 a spell of cold with temperatures down to -23 deg.F., I put a piece of
 cardboard between the A/C condenser and the radiator. It worked just fine.


 Craig




-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell

He does not commute anymore as he is retired.
Even when he was still working, he used the bus to get downtown.

Used to see a lot of the winter fronts on vehicles around here - esp 
pickups - in the winters.

I had one on my Suburban for years.

Have not seen much cardboard in a long while.
Sometimes pieces of carpet.

Randy

On 20/09/2013 2:51 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

He can't wire a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator? Or at least 
covering one of the fans?

He's right of course, it'll be interesting to see how mine is this winter.

They sell a coolant heater specifically for the TDI, 1000w he'd at least be 
able to start his commute warm.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 13:52:17 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 523c9961.5050...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I have commented on this before so hope I don't bore anyone.

My neighbor accross the lane has a Golf TDI.
The first winter, he took it to the dealer to have seat heaters
installed because the car did not produce sufficient heat to keep them warm.

He says that is understandable. He is a retired Physics professor and
says that vehicles that make really good fuel mileage are not as likely
to produce good heat. He says that burning fuel is converting one form
of energy to another and if one burns lots of fuel then one generally
creates a lot of heat as part of that conversion.

Thus the old cast iron V8 blocks of our youth used a lot of fuel but
made and retained heat well.

Modern engines have so much aluminum etc that they also dispel the heat
better. Not so good when we need heat.
One of the things I see touted for one of the new pickup trucks is
active shutters that close off the grill when the temperature sensors
say they don't need the airflow.

Randy
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Frederick Moir
Provincialism?
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 

On 20/09/2013 3:12 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:
 Randy.
 Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile 
 louvers and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.
 Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
 Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in 
 the radiator header tank, for instance.
 Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, 
 controlled by a chain from the drivers seat.
  
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.


So, why have things like this been so slow in coming to us?

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread WILTON

My Rolls didn't have any stinkin' slats.  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile 
louvers and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.

Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in 
the radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, 
controlled by a chain from the drivers seat.


Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is
something that has been done on pickup trucks.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Frederick Moir
Wilton.
Aircraft or automobile or fire-truck or ground power unit or?
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 

My Rolls didn't have any stinkin' slats.  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Frederick Moir fredy4.s...@yahoo.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile 
louvers and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.
Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in 
the radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, 
controlled by a chain from the drivers seat.

Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie


I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is
something that has been done on pickup trucks.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Frederick Moir
Randy.
Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile louvers 
and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars.
Fancier cars got more sophisticated devices, of course.
Rolls Royce had the vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in the 
radiator header tank, for instance.
Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in front of the radiator, controlled 
by a chain from the drivers seat.
 
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.




 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 

I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is 
something that has been done on pickup trucks.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Craig
On Fri, 20 Sep 2013 13:12:03 -0700 (PDT) Frederick Moir
fredy4.s...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Randy.
 Long ago and far away in Europe, UK especially, flaps, blinds, mobile
 louvers and cardboard behind the grill, were common on cars. Fancier
 cars got more sophisticated devices, of course. Rolls Royce had the
 vertical slats in the grill moved by a thermo-bulb in the radiator
 header tank, for instance. Saab 96's, and others, had a roller blind in
 front of the radiator, controlled by a chain from the drivers seat.
 Fred Moir Lynn MA
 Diesel preferred.

When we lived in the Black Forest area north of Colorado Springs and had
a spell of cold with temperatures down to -23 deg.F., I put a piece of
cardboard between the A/C condenser and the radiator. It worked just fine.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Randy Bennell
I remember them on things like big Mack trucks but I don't think it is 
something that has been done on pickup trucks.


Randy

On 20/09/2013 2:45 PM, Frederick Moir wrote:

What was old is new again!
  
Fred Moir

Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.





From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca


One of the things I see touted for one of the new pickup trucks is
active shutters that close off the grill when the temperature sensors
say they don't need the airflow.

Randy



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Sure you could, plug it in. I drove a 240D one summer where we hit -20F every 
morning for a whole week, thats -28C, close enough for government work.
I had a big marine battery I kept in my apartment, first thing in the morning 
I'd haul it downstairs, hook up my 400w inverter and get the block heater 
cooking. Run back upstairs and have a shower and breakfast. When I was done I'd 
run down and start the car which was no problem. Haul the battery back upstairs 
(3rd floor walkup) and put it on the charger. I learned to bring the inverter 
and cord in the house too or the cord would be hard to handle.

Before I had the battery I'd hook the 240D to my Dakota and Angie would drag us 
up and down the apartment complex driveway until the car started. I'd just slip 
it into 3rd and we'd go back and forth, after awhile it'd start popping and I'd 
put my foot to the floor, pretty quick it'd be firing on one but wouldn't stay 
running on its own. It wouldn't be long before all 4 were firing. I knew I had 
to come up with a better solution or Angie would get rid of me. The battery was 
an inspiration one day.

Interestingly if you go on Peachparts they'll tell you a 400w inverter can't 
run the block heater in a 123 but I know the truth.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 16:03:41 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 523cb82d.2050...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I don't have to worry about that with my 115. When it gets really cold, 
I would never get it to start.

I wonder how well the Passat would do when it is minus 30?

Randy
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Curt Raymond
I forgot to mention that I've never had it cold enough my 190D wouldn't start 
but it hasn't been colder than about -15F here since I've had an OM601. At -15F 
an OM616 in a 240D is decidedly iffy, a OM601 is no trouble at all.

When I bought the battery for the Jetta there were 3 sizes, I picked the 
biggest...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2013 16:28:06 -0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID:
    CANZcij-fJVsjfs3pG_Cfm+vA2TVEzRssa3XL4JPq6Fo=zbs...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I don't intend to find out!

I did help Dad start a Jacobs R755 radial engine with 50 wt oil in it at
-30F once though - it took about two hours of a large kerosene space heater
blowing on it before we could turn the prop, much less start it.


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 4:03 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 I don't have to worry about that with my 115. When it gets really cold, I
 would never get it to start.

 I wonder how well the Passat would do when it is minus 30?

 Randy



-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Craig
On Fri, 20 Sep 2013 18:46:37 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Sure you could, plug it in. I drove a 240D one summer where we hit -20F
 every morning for a whole week, thats -28C, close enough for government
 work.

If you hit -20F during summer, I'd hate to see what your winters are like!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-20 Thread Gerry Archer

Why is such heavy oil used in recip aircraft engines?
Gerry

From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

I don't intend to find out!
I did help Dad start a Jacobs R755 radial engine with 50 wt oil in it at
-30F once though - it took about two hours of a large kerosene space 
heater

blowing on it before we could turn the prop, much less start it.

On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 4:03 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca 
wrote:

I don't have to worry about that with my 115. When it gets really cold, I
would never get it to start.
I wonder how well the Passat would do when it is minus 30?
Randy




--
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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-
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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6186 - Release Date: 09/20/13




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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-19 Thread Randy Bennell

On 18/09/2013 3:31 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Curt wrote:

You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20
isn't that much more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.

In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old
truck you've driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel
truck person. A diesel person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.

I disagree here. *smiles*  A diesel person is one who chooses to
drive a diesel.  Someone using economics only for making a purchase
choice may need to drive that much per year to make diesel a good
choice.

A true diesel person will buy and drive diesel powered vehicles
even if it cost me more to do so.  That's me. *grin*  Money is a
factor in my choice, but it is not the primary factor.

--  Philip, diesel fan



Where are you Philip?

Any of you folks in colder climates? New Englanders maybe?

I am wondering how well the diesel trucks produce heat.
I am hearing stories around here that suggest they don't produce good 
heat in winter.


Randy who lives in the GWN

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-19 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Where are you Philip?

Any of you folks in colder climates? New Englanders maybe?

I am wondering how well the diesel trucks produce heat.
I am hearing stories around here that suggest they don't produce good heat
in winter.

Randy who lives in the GWN

IME the heat in a P/U is fine, in a Suburban not so much.

Greg




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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Fmiser
 Curt wrote:
 
 With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
 5.7 gasser...

Actually, you would.  A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L specs
and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.  But fuel
mileage is easily 50% better.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread Jim Cathey
have spent $2310 less in fuel now than I have.  However, I had to 
spend 4K$ for the ability to save that money.


Everybody always forgets resale value.  Gotta factor that
in too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Randy Bennell

On 17/09/2013 5:05 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

A diesel isn't out of the question, but I'd like to avoid having to a steep
learning curve with something completely new.  A gas 350, or example, is
something that will be very easy to manage without much new to learn.
  Ideally I get something that I just do a major service on, maybe brakes or
some suspension, and then have it is be fairly trouble free for a while.

Jaime


The ultimate question is what you will use it for and my guess is that 
if you buy a decent truck, you will use it more than you think you might.


If you truly think you will only use it sporadically, then I would agree 
that a basic 2 wheel drive Chevy will suit you fine.


I bought a 1968 C10 (2 wheel drive 1/2 ton) with a 292 inline 6 and a 
powerglide in about 1985 for $750. It was a Plant Science truck from the 
local university and they put them up for tender. It was a bit rough but 
not rusty.
I bought a junkyard seat and a rebuilt carb and put new tires on it and 
kept it until about 2 years ago and sold it for $1600.

So, I had it roughly 25 years and sold it for more than I paid for it.
In the intervening years, I put 2 or 3 or more exhaust systems on it,  a 
starter, a few batteries, had the rad recored, and put a 2nd set of new 
tires on it,  so I did not break even, but it was fairly cheap to own.
It had no power steering or brakes and had the radio delete plate. It 
was pretty basic except for being sort of a heavy half truck. It had 
coil rear suspension with the half leaf overload springs.
Sometimes I kept insurance on it year round and sometimes I let it lapse 
for the winter.

Insurance was cheap on it too.
I used it to haul stuff when needed. During the time I had it we built 
on to our house and I hauled a lot of lumber etc home with it from the 
local lumber yards.
I rarely drove it on the highway very far from home although I did have 
it out to the cottage 2 or 3 times and that is 175 miles away.
It was terrible on fuel and that was one of the discouraging factors. 
Also during the time I had it, I also had a Suburban for 10 years so I 
did not need the pickup for a lot of my lake runs.

I only drove the pickup about 14000 miles in 25 years.
It was handy to have if we had trouble with another vehicle and needed 
something to drive while fixing the other ones.
It was useful for hauling away junk and for hauling in things like 
garden soil and gravel etc.


It was a good truck but it was noisy and unrefined by today's standards.
I thought seriously about fixing it up with some bodywork and paint etc 
but quickly realized I could buy a much newer better riding truck for 
less than it would cost to decently fix the old truck so I sold it.
My wife and my younger son are still a bit miffed about my selling it 
but it was wasting away since we were not using it and it was sitting 
out at the lake for the last couple of years we owned it. My younger son 
is 6'3 and the cabs on those old trucks are not as big as the new ones. 
He really did not fit it all that well. I also considered it somewhat 
unsafe compared to the newer trucks with more modern amenities like air 
bags etc.


After I sold my Suburban and subsequently passed on the 4Runner (that 
replaced the Suburban) to my son, I bought a 98 F150 short box regular 
cab 4X4 and drove it for a year and liked it well enough that I bouhgt 
the Supercrew that I am still driving.
That was sort of the nail in the coffin for the old pickup as I passed 
on the short box to my son and we really did not need 3 pickups in the 
family and the newer ones were so much easier and more comfortable to drive.


So, the gist of my long story is that a basic older truck can be useful 
and inexpensive if you are not going to use it a whole lot.
If you find that you like it and use it a lot, you will end up swapping 
it for a better one.
My earlier suggestion was that you bite the bullet and start out with 
the better one but you need to be the judge of that.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond
You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20 isn't that much 
more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.

In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old truck you've 
driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel truck person. A diesel 
person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.

Going back to Jamie I've been suggesting a gas truck from the beginning, 
something basic with maybe even a v6.

On the car front, how much do you drive? The same equation above continues to 
apply except the Jetta and Prius are pretty much the same price. I happen to 
think the Jetta is MUCH more fun to drive, its faster, and handles better and 
if you drive mostly highway probably gets better mileage. If you drive mostly 
city the Prius is probably a better choice. OK Don will tell you the Passat 
gets better mileage than the Jetta (its also less prone to HPFP problems and 
doesn't go through a filter regen cycle although it does require DEF), is 
roomier and overall probably a better car for a couple grand more.

-Curt


Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 16:04:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey
Message-ID:
    1379459051.36987.yahoomail...@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

True,
 but we're talking about Ford F-250's. ?There is not a significant 
mileage difference between the gas and the diesel versions. ?Mine gets 
14 towing the boat, 15 on the road. ?A diesel gets 20.

I was 
going to be out $4K up front. ? Maintenance on an F-250 Diesel is very 
expensive. ?At the 2001 price, I was just not interested in spending the
 extra 4K$. ?Plus I didn't want the cost of the huge air filter or the 
dual big batteries.

So right now, using 3.45 for gas, 3.90 for 
diesel, pretty accurate where I am, and 66K miles, and 15 mpg for gas 
and 20 mpg for diesel, I get that I would have spent $2310 less in fuel 
now than I have. ?However, I had to spend 4K$ for the ability to save 
that money.

I realize that it's not an amazing amount of money 
I'm saving 12 years later, but I've had absolutely no issues with the 
truck, gas works fine, I've pulled a 300TD from Atlanta to here, etc 
etc.

Now if you want to look at little cars, I am thinking about 
either a new Jetta TDI or a new Prius. ?I am back to thinking about gas 
vs diesel, and your numbers have more validity. ?I've rented both cars, 
and find they are very similiar as far as utility is concerned. ?Now I 
have to make the decision about gas and diesel again. ?
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond
This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was a bit under 
powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered...
It reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

-Curt


Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 01:08:50 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 20130918010850.37350...@jasper.condray.lan
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Curt wrote:
 
 With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
 5.7 gasser...

Actually, you would.  A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L specs
and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.  But fuel
mileage is easily 50% better.

--    Philip
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread Craig
On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 09:19:53 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 OK Don will tell you the Passat gets better mileage than the Jetta (its
 also less prone to HPFP problems and doesn't go through a filter regen
 cycle although it does require DEF), is roomier and overall probably a
 better car for a couple grand more.

What do the acronyms mean? What does the filter regen cycle do?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread dseretakis
So Jaime is becoming a redneck:)

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:34 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

 it's time for you to know this.  jaime used to confide in me that he wanted
 to be you
 
 
 On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 8:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
 
 Jaime is just trying to be more like me. First he moves to the country (I
 think), then he needs a lawn tractor. Now he wants a pickup. Next thing you
 know he will have 80 junk cars in his back yard.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Sep 17, 2013, at 12:49 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 i'd agree with curt here.  the love of diesel is nice and all but diesel
 isn't always an answer
 
 but the reality is jaime just wants another toy.  for as often as he
 needs
 to use a truck, he can just rent one and be WAY ahead in overall costs
 
 i used to drive a very nice 94 E420, but the head gasket blew.  seems to
 be
 30 hours of labor so i went back to driving my clapped out 280CE.,  this
 car lacked any sort of creature comforts (the windows didn't even fully
 roll up)  at all and got about 12mpg.  when i wanted to do an overnight
 or
 day trip, i'd go to an enterprise rent a car where i had a deal where i
 could show up and take any car left on the lot 10 minutes before closing
 on
 saturday and return it same time monday for 20 bucks plus tax.  there
 were
 always big vans and pickups available.  sometimes they were all that was
 available
 
 so think about how often you really NEED a pickup truck and how much it
 costs to rent vs how much it cots to own full time and i suspect you will
 discover that renting is much cheaper than owning
 
 but renting doen't give you teh fun of playing with a new toy and that is
 probably what we have here
 
 
 On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 
 He's gonna pay 2-3x for a diesel and it'll have added maintenance costs.
 Its not like he's going to commute with it. For trips to the home
 center or
 the dump or to retrieve a car a cheap gasser makes more sense than a
 diesel.
 
 If he was gonna do long road trips sure...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 11:52:07 -0400
 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 Message-ID:
   CALHJ_1A+AceL3Rh-vZYhxkMcVs5VqOg+W3b+=aa-rfpenpu...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 Miles are high for a v8 Ford.  Not a great deal.  Look further south for
 less rust.  A 3/4 ton with a diesel will get better mpg and haul way
 more.
 Early idi models get near 20mpg and have plenty enough power.  That
 truck
 will get around 12.
 
 Older Chevy diesels, 6.2 etc., get great mpg and last forever.  Newer
 Diesels, such as my Powerstroke(with exception to the Cummins), get
 worse
 mpg at around 15 or so average but with 450 ft-lbs of torque, who cares?
 
 Mike
 On Sep 17, 2013 11:23 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 
 On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:13:23 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
 curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 http://www.frankcoffeyauto.com/1994_Ford_Ford_Milford_NH_174894153.veh
 
 Looks good, and the price is right. Google maps says it's 285 miles
 from
 Trenton, NJ, 4 hours 52 minutes. Sounds like road trip time.
 
 
 Craig
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 *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Fmiser
   Curt wrote:
   
   With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
   5.7 gasser...

  Fmiser wrote:
  
  Actually, you would.  A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L
  specs and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.
  But fuel mileage is easily 50% better.

 Curt wrote:
 
 This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was
 a bit under powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered... It
 reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

The C-code has less power (J and C are the letters in the VIN for
the engine).  It is used in the light duty cars.  I believe the
non-military Blazers would all be C-code from the factory, but I
don't really know.   There were two versions of 3/4 ton Suburbans,
the one with high GVWR got the J-code engine while the lighter got
the C-code.

It seems often the cars were setup for max economy with long-legged
differential gearing - which, of course, makes them slow.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread dseretakis
Where? In silver spring?

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:30 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Diesel is cheaper here, believe it or not, at $3.89.
 
 Andrew in D.C.
 
 
 On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 7:04 PM, Richard Hattaway
 rhatta...@rocketmail.comwrote:
 
 True, but we're talking about Ford F-250's.  There is not a significant
 mileage difference between the gas and the diesel versions.  Mine gets 14
 towing the boat, 15 on the road.  A diesel gets 20.
 
 I was going to be out $4K up front.   Maintenance on an F-250 Diesel is
 very expensive.  At the 2001 price, I was just not interested in spending
 the extra 4K$.  Plus I didn't want the cost of the huge air filter or the
 dual big batteries.
 
 So right now, using 3.45 for gas, 3.90 for diesel, pretty accurate where I
 am, and 66K miles, and 15 mpg for gas and 20 mpg for diesel, I get that I
 would have spent $2310 less in fuel now than I have.  However, I had to
 spend 4K$ for the ability to save that money.
 
 I realize that it's not an amazing amount of money I'm saving 12 years
 later, but I've had absolutely no issues with the truck, gas works fine,
 I've pulled a 300TD from Atlanta to here, etc etc.
 
 Now if you want to look at little cars, I am thinking about either a new
 Jetta TDI or a new Prius.  I am back to thinking about gas vs diesel, and
 your numbers have more validity.  I've rented both cars, and find they are
 very similiar as far as utility is concerned.  Now I have to make the
 decision about gas and diesel again.
 
 
 From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:37 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 
 
 So far north of gas?
 
 I got my aunt with this the other day, they have a diesel Passat and a
 gasser Volvo. We talked it out and if you aim low on the Passat and say
 40mpg and say 30mpg on the Volvo which is probably slightly optimistic that
 gives the Passat a 33% advantage right?
 
 If gas is $3.65 and diesel is $4 (and thats a bad spread, its not as bad
 here) thats 35 cents difference or around 9%. So my contention is that you
 spend an extra 9 cents to save 33. You don't have to hit me twice with a
 stick...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 15:19:24 -0700 (PDT)
 From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 Message-ID:
1379456364.48504.yahoomail...@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
 I have a 2001 F-250. ?Got it new, love it. ?Diesel was 4K$ more at the
 time, and it just wasn't worth it, even though fuel was cheaper then. ?If
 you tow all the time for a living, then a diesel is a good thing. ?If
 you're buying a utility truck to go to the lake, pick up lawn stuff, and in
 general haul stuff around but not for a living, then gas is great. ?Now
 that the cost of diesel is so far north of gas, I am convinced my lil ole
 F-250 gasser was a good choice.
 
 Now I got 66K miles on it. ?It will still be here when the crematorium is
 messing with me (c:
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Arlington, VA but SS is probably within a dime of that.  are you driving
down for our weekend tech session at HBL in Tysons Corner?  I will FW you
the announcement.

On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 2:13 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Where? In silver spring?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:30 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  Diesel is cheaper here, believe it or not, at $3.89.
 
  Andrew in D.C.
 
 
  On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 7:04 PM, Richard Hattaway
  rhatta...@rocketmail.comwrote:
 
  True, but we're talking about Ford F-250's.  There is not a significant
  mileage difference between the gas and the diesel versions.  Mine gets
 14
  towing the boat, 15 on the road.  A diesel gets 20.
 
  I was going to be out $4K up front.   Maintenance on an F-250 Diesel is
  very expensive.  At the 2001 price, I was just not interested in
 spending
  the extra 4K$.  Plus I didn't want the cost of the huge air filter or
 the
  dual big batteries.
 
  So right now, using 3.45 for gas, 3.90 for diesel, pretty accurate
 where I
  am, and 66K miles, and 15 mpg for gas and 20 mpg for diesel, I get that
 I
  would have spent $2310 less in fuel now than I have.  However, I had to
  spend 4K$ for the ability to save that money.
 
  I realize that it's not an amazing amount of money I'm saving 12 years
  later, but I've had absolutely no issues with the truck, gas works fine,
  I've pulled a 300TD from Atlanta to here, etc etc.
 
  Now if you want to look at little cars, I am thinking about either a new
  Jetta TDI or a new Prius.  I am back to thinking about gas vs diesel,
 and
  your numbers have more validity.  I've rented both cars, and find they
 are
  very similiar as far as utility is concerned.  Now I have to make the
  decision about gas and diesel again.
 
  
  From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
  To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 6:37 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 
 
  So far north of gas?
 
  I got my aunt with this the other day, they have a diesel Passat and a
  gasser Volvo. We talked it out and if you aim low on the Passat and say
  40mpg and say 30mpg on the Volvo which is probably slightly optimistic
 that
  gives the Passat a 33% advantage right?
 
  If gas is $3.65 and diesel is $4 (and thats a bad spread, its not as bad
  here) thats 35 cents difference or around 9%. So my contention is that
 you
  spend an extra 9 cents to save 33. You don't have to hit me twice with a
  stick...
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 15:19:24 -0700 (PDT)
  From: Richard Hattaway rhatta...@rocketmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
  Message-ID:
 1379456364.48504.yahoomail...@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
 
  I have a 2001 F-250. ?Got it new, love it. ?Diesel was 4K$ more at the
  time, and it just wasn't worth it, even though fuel was cheaper then.
 ?If
  you tow all the time for a living, then a diesel is a good thing. ?If
  you're buying a utility truck to go to the lake, pick up lawn stuff,
 and in
  general haul stuff around but not for a living, then gas is great. ?Now
  that the cost of diesel is so far north of gas, I am convinced my lil
 ole
  F-250 gasser was a good choice.
 
  Now I got 66K miles on it. ?It will still be here when the crematorium
 is
  messing with me (c:
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread MG
As far as I'm concerned the 6.2 is under powered. I've had both 
the 6.2 and the 6.5. Both in vans and the 6.5 beats the 6.2 hands 
down and they both got right at 20mpg. Mind it's still not great 
at pulling but it is better. If you get a Blazer try to find one 
with the 6.5 turbo on it. If the electronic pump goes out you can 
still put in a later mechanical pump for less money and be a lot 
happier. I'm just sad that the turbo doesn't fit in a van. I 
think my Dodge van with the 318 may have been better at pulling 
then the 6.2 but it also used a lot more fuel.


Manfred

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 08:54:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was 
a bit under powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered...

It reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Not acronyms, initialisms, unless you're going to try to pronounce HPFP which 
would be hard without vowels... ;)

HPFP = High pressure fuel pump which is apparently prone to failure on the 
Jetta and Beetle from 2009 on although there is disagreement on how many. VW 
and NTSB say 1-2%, if you read some of the forums it might be as high as 25%. 
The theory is that our crappy diesel fuel is killing a pump which might be 
marginal to begin with. Smart money right now says to run a lubricity additive. 
Passat uses a different HPFP which is supposedly more robust.

DEF = Diesel Exhaust Fluid, the oft referred to urea which, contrary to 
popular opinion is not refined from urine.

The Jetta has a filter which fills with diesel soot after awhile, before its 
completely full the engine runs a regeneration cycle which shoots extra fuel 
through the engine and burns out the filter. Some folks report the car running 
poorly during that time, some don't, its hard to know who to believe. The 
Passat uses DEF and thus doesn't have the filter and its possible problems, 
this is also why the Passat gets slightly better mileage.

-Curt


Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 11:54:03 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey
Message-ID: 20130918115403.7b375e8bd31a3326c65b5...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Wed, 18 Sep 2013 09:19:53 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 OK Don will tell you the Passat gets better mileage than the Jetta (its
 also less prone to HPFP problems and doesn't go through a filter regen
 cycle although it does require DEF), is roomier and overall probably a
 better car for a couple grand more.

What do the acronyms mean? What does the filter regen cycle do?


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Whats the difference between C and J? Can you modify a C to a J?

I don't want a 1ton pickup, I guess a 3/4 ton Sub I could live with ;)

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 13:14:39 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 20130918131439.51d65...@jasper.condray.lan
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

   Curt wrote:
   
   With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
   5.7 gasser...

  Fmiser wrote:
  
  Actually, you would.? A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L
  specs and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.
  But fuel mileage is easily 50% better.

 Curt wrote:
 
 This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was
 a bit under powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered... It
 reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

The C-code has less power (J and C are the letters in the VIN for
the engine).  It is used in the light duty cars.  I believe the
non-military Blazers would all be C-code from the factory, but I
don't really know.  There were two versions of 3/4 ton Suburbans,
the one with high GVWR got the J-code engine while the lighter got
the C-code.

It seems often the cars were setup for max economy with long-legged
differential gearing - which, of course, makes them slow.

--    Philip
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey

2013-09-18 Thread Fmiser
 Curt wrote:
 
 You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20
 isn't that much more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.
 
 In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old
 truck you've driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel
 truck person. A diesel person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.

I disagree here. *smiles*  A diesel person is one who chooses to
drive a diesel.  Someone using economics only for making a purchase
choice may need to drive that much per year to make diesel a good
choice. 

A true diesel person will buy and drive diesel powered vehicles
even if it cost me more to do so.  That's me. *grin*  Money is a
factor in my choice, but it is not the primary factor.

--  Philip, diesel fan

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
The 6.2 is the 240D of chevy, yes they are slow and probably considered 
underpowered by todays standards, but it will pull just about anything 
you want it to, just slowly.


On 9/18/2013 10:54 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was a bit under 
powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered...
It reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

-Curt


Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 01:08:50 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 20130918010850.37350...@jasper.condray.lan
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII


Curt wrote:

With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
5.7 gasser...

Actually, you would.  A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L specs
and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.  But fuel
mileage is easily 50% better.

--Philip
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Curt Raymond
As I was telling Fred a couple weeks ago Mercedes folks are enthusiasts, VW 
people are nuts.

Diesel people appreciate a finely designed and built engine, gasser people are 
dang fools.

Honestly though if I didn't have a highway commute I'd probably switch to a 
gasser. It doesn't take much around town with a diesel MB to carbon it up...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 15:31:07 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamiey
Message-ID: 20130918153107.5b12b...@jasper.condray.lan
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Curt wrote:
 
 You're not really looking at the numbers here, you're saying 20
 isn't that much more than 15 but it is 33 1/3% after all.
 
 In reality you've made my point again, you've got a 12 year old
 truck you've driven 66k, not even 6k a year, you're not a diesel
 truck person. A diesel person drives 25,000 miles or MORE a year.

I disagree here. *smiles*  A diesel person is one who chooses to
drive a diesel.  Someone using economics only for making a purchase
choice may need to drive that much per year to make diesel a good
choice. 

A true diesel person will buy and drive diesel powered vehicles
even if it cost me more to do so.  That's me. *grin*  Money is a
factor in my choice, but it is not the primary factor.

--          Philip, diesel fan
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

C is EGR, J is no EGR.  All you have to do is swap the intake manifold.

On 9/18/2013 2:23 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Whats the difference between C and J? Can you modify a C to a J?

I don't want a 1ton pickup, I guess a 3/4 ton Sub I could live with ;)

-Curt

Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 13:14:39 -0500
From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
Message-ID: 20130918131439.51d65...@jasper.condray.lan
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1


Curt wrote:
  
With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a

5.7 gasser...

Fmiser wrote:
  
Actually, you would.? A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L

specs and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.
But fuel mileage is easily 50% better.

Curt wrote:
  
This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was

a bit under powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered... It
reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

The C-code has less power (J and C are the letters in the VIN for
the engine).  It is used in the light duty cars.  I believe the
non-military Blazers would all be C-code from the factory, but I
don't really know.  There were two versions of 3/4 ton Suburbans,
the one with high GVWR got the J-code engine while the lighter got
the C-code.

It seems often the cars were setup for max economy with long-legged
differential gearing - which, of course, makes them slow.

--Philip
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Gary Hurst
not until he starts getting some guns and dogs.


On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 2:14 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 So Jaime is becoming a redneck:)

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:34 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:

  it's time for you to know this.  jaime used to confide in me that he
 wanted
  to be you
 
 
  On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 8:03 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
 wrote:
 
  Jaime is just trying to be more like me. First he moves to the country
 (I
  think), then he needs a lawn tractor. Now he wants a pickup. Next thing
 you
  know he will have 80 junk cars in his back yard.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
 
  On Sep 17, 2013, at 12:49 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  i'd agree with curt here.  the love of diesel is nice and all but
 diesel
  isn't always an answer
 
  but the reality is jaime just wants another toy.  for as often as he
  needs
  to use a truck, he can just rent one and be WAY ahead in overall costs
 
  i used to drive a very nice 94 E420, but the head gasket blew.  seems
 to
  be
  30 hours of labor so i went back to driving my clapped out 280CE.,
  this
  car lacked any sort of creature comforts (the windows didn't even fully
  roll up)  at all and got about 12mpg.  when i wanted to do an overnight
  or
  day trip, i'd go to an enterprise rent a car where i had a deal where i
  could show up and take any car left on the lot 10 minutes before
 closing
  on
  saturday and return it same time monday for 20 bucks plus tax.  there
  were
  always big vans and pickups available.  sometimes they were all that
 was
  available
 
  so think about how often you really NEED a pickup truck and how much it
  costs to rent vs how much it cots to own full time and i suspect you
 will
  discover that renting is much cheaper than owning
 
  but renting doen't give you teh fun of playing with a new toy and that
 is
  probably what we have here
 
 
  On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
  wrote:
 
  He's gonna pay 2-3x for a diesel and it'll have added maintenance
 costs.
  Its not like he's going to commute with it. For trips to the home
  center or
  the dump or to retrieve a car a cheap gasser makes more sense than a
  diesel.
 
  If he was gonna do long road trips sure...
 
  -Curt
 
  Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 11:52:07 -0400
  From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
  Message-ID:
CALHJ_1A+AceL3Rh-vZYhxkMcVs5VqOg+W3b+=aa-rfpenpu...@mail.gmail.com
 
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
  Miles are high for a v8 Ford.  Not a great deal.  Look further south
 for
  less rust.  A 3/4 ton with a diesel will get better mpg and haul way
  more.
  Early idi models get near 20mpg and have plenty enough power.  That
  truck
  will get around 12.
 
  Older Chevy diesels, 6.2 etc., get great mpg and last forever.  Newer
  Diesels, such as my Powerstroke(with exception to the Cummins), get
  worse
  mpg at around 15 or so average but with 450 ft-lbs of torque, who
 cares?
 
  Mike
  On Sep 17, 2013 11:23 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 
  On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:13:23 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
  curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  http://www.frankcoffeyauto.com/1994_Ford_Ford_Milford_NH_174894153.veh
 
  Looks good, and the price is right. Google maps says it's 285 miles
  from
  Trenton, NJ, 4 hours 52 minutes. Sounds like road trip time.
 
 
  Craig
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  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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  *reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars
 
  *
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
They probabably cant own guns up there in liberal land.  I actually just 
aquired 10 more guns yesterday.  I have 6 riffles and/or shotguns leaned 
up against my bedroom wall next to my bed while I figure out a place to 
store them because I have an overflow of guns.


On 9/18/2013 6:13 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:

not until he starts getting some guns and dogs.


On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 2:14 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:


So Jaime is becoming a redneck:)

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 17, 2013, at 9:34 PM, Gary Hurst jabbahur...@gmail.com wrote:





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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-18 Thread Michael Canfield
Not true.   The J code has better head bolts, better main cap bolts, bigger
injectors, pump and lines and probably a few more I am missing.  That said,
I am running an 83 rv engine that is probably the old c code.  Runs
stronger than my J code engine ever did so who knows?

Oh, and the military Blazers should all be J code engines.

Mike
On Sep 18, 2013 7:11 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 C is EGR, J is no EGR.  All you have to do is swap the intake manifold.

 On 9/18/2013 2:23 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 Whats the difference between C and J? Can you modify a C to a J?

 I don't want a 1ton pickup, I guess a 3/4 ton Sub I could live with ;)

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2013 13:14:39 -0500
 From: Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie
 Message-ID: 20130918131439.51d651f4@**Jasper.condray.lan
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

  Curt wrote:
   With a 6.2 you certainly don't have the power you'd get with a
 5.7 gasser...

 Fmiser wrote:
   Actually, you would.? A J-code (the one without the EGR) 6.2L
 specs and drives very much like a 5.7 (350 cid) gasoline engine.
 But fuel mileage is easily 50% better.

 Curt wrote:
   This surprises me, I was always under the impression the 6.2 was
 a bit under powered. I've never thought a 5.7 underpowered... It
 reinforces my desire for a 6.2 powered Blazer...

 The C-code has less power (J and C are the letters in the VIN for
 the engine).  It is used in the light duty cars.  I believe the
 non-military Blazers would all be C-code from the factory, but I
 don't really know.  There were two versions of 3/4 ton Suburbans,
 the one with high GVWR got the J-code engine while the lighter got
 the C-code.

 It seems often the cars were setup for max economy with long-legged
 differential gearing - which, of course, makes them slow.

 --Philip
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck

2013-09-17 Thread MG
Chevy Ford and Dodge are probably less expensive but cost more to 
feed. Toyota Tacoma 2wd with the offroad TRD wannabe package 16 
wheels would probably do what you want also. My wifes 03 with 
4cyl has hauled up to 1500 lbs and pulled a 5x8 enclosed utility 
trailer with full load over the Rockies as well as a car trailer 
with Cherokee over 90 miles. All without any problems or adverse 
handling. Was it fast doing that, no but then who wants to race 
with a full load 70 is good enough. OK 20 uphill going over the 
Rockies but that was a hell of a load. All in all it's been a lot 
better then I ever thought it would be. So I wouldn't be afraid 
to get one of them if it's been well taken care of though the 
extra cost in your case for just sometime use probably isn't 
worth it. I'd stick with 2wd no matter what you get to avoid 
problems and more repairs.


Manfred

Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2013 21:01:26 -0400
From: Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com

I've decided I want a pick up truck for basic utility.? Carrying 
stuff

around, trips to the home disappointment, etc.? And towing around my
utility trailer.? Overall, it would get used pretty rarely and 
I'd probably

share it with my brother who has the same needs.

Looking to spend under $3000.? Doesn't have to be pretty, but 
should a
basically reliable design.? I don't mind doing some work, of 
course, to

make it reliable.

Problem is I don't know where to start looking.? That is, what 
model to

look for and what to avoid.? Can anyone offer any experience or
suggestions?? I'd lean toward a Toyota, but I don't think they're 
very

cheap.? Theres lots of higher mileage Fords and Dodges out there...

A bonus would be something heavy enough to tow a car trailer.

Anyone have any advice?

Thanks,
Jaime

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck

2013-09-17 Thread Rich Thomas

This doesn't belong on this list!

--R

On 9/16/13 9:01 PM, Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

I've decided I want a pick up truck for basic utility.  Carrying stuff
around, trips to the home disappointment, etc.  And towing around my
utility trailer.  Overall, it would get used pretty rarely and I'd probably
share it with my brother who has the same needs.

Looking to spend under $3000.  Doesn't have to be pretty, but should a
basically reliable design.  I don't mind doing some work, of course, to
make it reliable.

Problem is I don't know where to start looking.  That is, what model to
look for and what to avoid.  Can anyone offer any experience or
suggestions?  I'd lean toward a Toyota, but I don't think they're very
cheap.  Theres lots of higher mileage Fords and Dodges out there...

A bonus would be something heavy enough to tow a car trailer.

Anyone have any advice?

Thanks,
Jaime





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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truck for Jamie

2013-09-17 Thread Craig
On Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:13:23 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 http://www.frankcoffeyauto.com/1994_Ford_Ford_Milford_NH_174894153.veh

Looks good, and the price is right. Google maps says it's 285 miles from
Trenton, NJ, 4 hours 52 minutes. Sounds like road trip time.


Craig

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