Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! No truer words were ever spoken. After lunch it was time, so I started gathering up the tools, parts, etc. I couldn't find the crankshaft lock! I spent about three hours in the garage, looking in all the places that I might have put it, and finally gave up looking. The garage is much cleaner now, and I found a few other things I was looking for, but the lock is MIA. I decided that with the limited amount of time I had left, I could at least clean off the front of the engine and positively identify the leak. After I removed the cooling fan and shroud, I used brake cleaner to clean around the crankshaft and the vacuum pump and the front of the engine in general. Ran the car for about ten minutes, observed and felt around the front, and could find no leaks. Hmmm. Started the car again, and cleaned off more of the oily mess on the left side of the engine (injection pump side) and immediately found a steady drip drip drip. Shut off the engine and started looking and feeling for what could be the source under the injection pump, and touched one of the three injection pump flange nuts and found it finger tight! Ah hah! I just had time to torque the three bolts to spec (20-25 Nm) and run the engine a bit. That is not really a fair test, so tomorrow I'm going to take the car to the car wash and clean off the engine properly, and see if the leak was just the injection pump all along. Hard to imagine that all the oil was migrating forward from the injection pump flange, I'm still suspicious of the crankshaft seal. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
It can be yours for a price. I plan to sell it. You still got that car? I sure miss it.a lot Sent from my iPhone On Aug 15, 2015, at 8:40 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: SDL I got had been in some shop in arkieland. german name etc, presumably knew something about german cars. The IP had apparently been replaced by one that had been sprayed with a gold lacquer for identity. It leaked like a seive at the flange. When I finally took it out and put in a new oring, I found the pump was way out of time. The pump was already leaking at the delivery valve orings shortly after I got the car, so the rebuilt pump is somewhat suspect too. There is a post somewhere in these here archives about the pump oring, leaking and way out of time. So yes, a bad oring and a loose nut or 3 on the IP flange can result in big oil puddles. On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! No truer words were ever spoken. After lunch it was time, so I started gathering up the tools, parts, etc. I couldn't find the crankshaft lock! I spent about three hours in the garage, looking in all the places that I might have put it, and finally gave up looking. The garage is much cleaner now, and I found a few other things I was looking for, but the lock is MIA. I decided that with the limited amount of time I had left, I could at least clean off the front of the engine and positively identify the leak. After I removed the cooling fan and shroud, I used brake cleaner to clean around the crankshaft and the vacuum pump and the front of the engine in general. Ran the car for about ten minutes, observed and felt around the front, and could find no leaks. Hmmm. Started the car again, and cleaned off more of the oily mess on the left side of the engine (injection pump side) and immediately found a steady drip drip drip. Shut off the engine and started looking and feeling for what could be the source under the injection pump, and touched one of the three injection pump flange nuts and found it finger tight! Ah hah! I just had time to torque the three bolts to spec (20-25 Nm) and run the engine a bit. That is not really a fair test, so tomorrow I'm going to take the car to the car wash and clean off the engine properly, and see if the leak was just the injection pump all along. Hard to imagine that all the oil was migrating forward from the injection pump flange, I'm still suspicious of the crankshaft seal. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Its amazing how oil moves. My '85 190D had a leaking power steering pump and the oil would creep up the hood right in front of the driver. Had to wipe it off every day or it'd get on the windshield. -Curt From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 7:04 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! No truer words were ever spoken. After lunch it was time, so I started gathering up the tools, parts, etc. I couldn't find the crankshaft lock! I spent about three hours in the garage, looking in all the places that I might have put it, and finally gave up looking. The garage is much cleaner now, and I found a few other things I was looking for, but the lock is MIA. I decided that with the limited amount of time I had left, I could at least clean off the front of the engine and positively identify the leak. After I removed the cooling fan and shroud, I used brake cleaner to clean around the crankshaft and the vacuum pump and the front of the engine in general. Ran the car for about ten minutes, observed and felt around the front, and could find no leaks. Hmmm. Started the car again, and cleaned off more of the oily mess on the left side of the engine (injection pump side) and immediately found a steady drip drip drip. Shut off the engine and started looking and feeling for what could be the source under the injection pump, and touched one of the three injection pump flange nuts and found it finger tight! Ah hah! I just had time to torque the three bolts to spec (20-25 Nm) and run the engine a bit. That is not really a fair test, so tomorrow I'm going to take the car to the car wash and clean off the engine properly, and see if the leak was just the injection pump all along. Hard to imagine that all the oil was migrating forward from the injection pump flange, I'm still suspicious of the crankshaft seal. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
You still got that car? I sure miss it.a lot Sent from my iPhone On Aug 15, 2015, at 8:40 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: SDL I got had been in some shop in arkieland. german name etc, presumably knew something about german cars. The IP had apparently been replaced by one that had been sprayed with a gold lacquer for identity. It leaked like a seive at the flange. When I finally took it out and put in a new oring, I found the pump was way out of time. The pump was already leaking at the delivery valve orings shortly after I got the car, so the rebuilt pump is somewhat suspect too. There is a post somewhere in these here archives about the pump oring, leaking and way out of time. So yes, a bad oring and a loose nut or 3 on the IP flange can result in big oil puddles. On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! No truer words were ever spoken. After lunch it was time, so I started gathering up the tools, parts, etc. I couldn't find the crankshaft lock! I spent about three hours in the garage, looking in all the places that I might have put it, and finally gave up looking. The garage is much cleaner now, and I found a few other things I was looking for, but the lock is MIA. I decided that with the limited amount of time I had left, I could at least clean off the front of the engine and positively identify the leak. After I removed the cooling fan and shroud, I used brake cleaner to clean around the crankshaft and the vacuum pump and the front of the engine in general. Ran the car for about ten minutes, observed and felt around the front, and could find no leaks. Hmmm. Started the car again, and cleaned off more of the oily mess on the left side of the engine (injection pump side) and immediately found a steady drip drip drip. Shut off the engine and started looking and feeling for what could be the source under the injection pump, and touched one of the three injection pump flange nuts and found it finger tight! Ah hah! I just had time to torque the three bolts to spec (20-25 Nm) and run the engine a bit. That is not really a fair test, so tomorrow I'm going to take the car to the car wash and clean off the engine properly, and see if the leak was just the injection pump all along. Hard to imagine that all the oil was migrating forward from the injection pump flange, I'm still suspicious of the crankshaft seal. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
SDL I got had been in some shop in arkieland. german name etc, presumably knew something about german cars. The IP had apparently been replaced by one that had been sprayed with a gold lacquer for identity. It leaked like a seive at the flange. When I finally took it out and put in a new oring, I found the pump was way out of time. The pump was already leaking at the delivery valve orings shortly after I got the car, so the rebuilt pump is somewhat suspect too. There is a post somewhere in these here archives about the pump oring, leaking and way out of time. So yes, a bad oring and a loose nut or 3 on the IP flange can result in big oil puddles. On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 7:55 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! No truer words were ever spoken. After lunch it was time, so I started gathering up the tools, parts, etc. I couldn't find the crankshaft lock! I spent about three hours in the garage, looking in all the places that I might have put it, and finally gave up looking. The garage is much cleaner now, and I found a few other things I was looking for, but the lock is MIA. I decided that with the limited amount of time I had left, I could at least clean off the front of the engine and positively identify the leak. After I removed the cooling fan and shroud, I used brake cleaner to clean around the crankshaft and the vacuum pump and the front of the engine in general. Ran the car for about ten minutes, observed and felt around the front, and could find no leaks. Hmmm. Started the car again, and cleaned off more of the oily mess on the left side of the engine (injection pump side) and immediately found a steady drip drip drip. Shut off the engine and started looking and feeling for what could be the source under the injection pump, and touched one of the three injection pump flange nuts and found it finger tight! Ah hah! I just had time to torque the three bolts to spec (20-25 Nm) and run the engine a bit. That is not really a fair test, so tomorrow I'm going to take the car to the car wash and clean off the engine properly, and see if the leak was just the injection pump all along. Hard to imagine that all the oil was migrating forward from the injection pump flange, I'm still suspicious of the crankshaft seal. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Curly, Rick, Craig; Thanks! I'm going to see if I can figure out what the correct speedi-sleeve is and try that. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
OK, looks like the SKF seal is 17907 = inside diameter = 45.01mm, = speedi-sleeve part# is 99177 (standard) or 99830 (gold higher quality / longer lasting). The SKF website and the speedi-sleeve catalog both caution that the correct size is determined by measuring the shaft, I can't do that until I take the hub off. I called local auto parts warehouse, Parks, and they carry the Timken equivalent of the SKF speedi-sleev and have the same size and the next size up and down in stock, so the odds are good that when I take the hub off, I can buy the repair sleeve kit (about $40) the same day and get the car back on the road quickly. I called several local bearing supply places, including two that are SKF distributors, and they don't keep ANY repair sleeves in stock. We can get that for you in a couple days doesn't cut it. I do not want to take the car out of service to remove and measure the hub, order the sleeve, wait 2-3 days and then put it all back together. - Max Charleston SC Agreed, that is is bad to have the car down for a week waiting on parts. The sleeve I got was loose, but I installed it with loctite, and I expect no problems. too small to get it on the hub without damage is another deal. I'd suggest putting the sleeve on a block of wood, then set the vibration damper hub on top evenly and bump the hub with a rubber hammer. The damper is larger and more easily kept parallel to the wood surface. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Even better! Timken catalogs for their seal applications list both the replacement seal from the MB part number and the Redi-sleeve part number. In this case the Timken part number is KWK99177. I'm going to stop by Parks tonight on the way home and buy it if they have it. Their price is about twice what I would pay on Amazon if I wanted to wait ten days or longer, but I love to have a local parts place that not only has a huge selection and good stuff, but they stay open until midnight 7 days a week, so I'll pay the extra and maybe I can knock this repair out this weekend. - Max Charleston SC On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 2:17 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Agreed, that is is bad to have the car down for a week waiting on parts. The sleeve I got was loose, but I installed it with loctite, and I expect no problems. too small to get it on the hub without damage is another deal. I'd suggest putting the sleeve on a block of wood, then set the vibration damper hub on top evenly and bump the hub with a rubber hammer. The damper is larger and more easily kept parallel to the wood surface. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
OK, looks like the SKF seal is 17907 = inside diameter = 45.01mm, = speedi-sleeve part# is 99177 (standard) or 99830 (gold higher quality / longer lasting). The SKF website and the speedi-sleeve catalog both caution that the correct size is determined by measuring the shaft, I can't do that until I take the hub off. I called local auto parts warehouse, Parks, and they carry the Timken equivalent of the SKF speedi-sleev and have the same size and the next size up and down in stock, so the odds are good that when I take the hub off, I can buy the repair sleeve kit (about $40) the same day and get the car back on the road quickly. I called several local bearing supply places, including two that are SKF distributors, and they don't keep ANY repair sleeves in stock. We can get that for you in a couple days doesn't cut it. I do not want to take the car out of service to remove and measure the hub, order the sleeve, wait 2-3 days and then put it all back together. - Max Charleston SC On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 9:15 AM, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote: Curly, Rick, Craig; Thanks! I'm going to see if I can figure out what the correct speedi-sleeve is and try that. - Max Charleston SC ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Have the Timken sleeve in hand, probably going to install this weekend. Oil leak requires a quart every 500 miles now. Back of the car is coated, nasty. I may wash the engine tonight to ensure the leak is REALLY at the crank seal, no reason why it couldn't be something else, but that crank seal is the prime suspect for now. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Have the Timken sleeve in hand, probably going to install this weekend. Oil leak requires a quart every 500 miles now. Back of the car is coated, nasty. Whaddya mean, nasty? Back of the car is _rustproofed_. Charge extra for that... I may wash the engine tonight to ensure the leak is REALLY at the crank seal, no reason why it couldn't be something else, but that crank seal is the prime suspect for now. Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! The chain tensioner is a heavy leaker, at times. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Already replaced the seal for the chain tensioner, immediately after the head was installed and the first seal leaked because I wasn't careful and let the seal get cock-eyed while tightening. The other possible leakers I can think of are the vacuum pump/gasket and the timing case cracking at the serpentine belt tensioner mount. I may put some newspaper or cardboard under it in the driveway and spray a couple cans of brake cleaner to wash off the front of the engine, that may be enough to locate the leak. -- Max Dillon If it is leaking that much, the oil will have washed a clean pathway below whatever is leaking. If it is the front mail seal, there will be a clean oily path below with dirt stuck in the oil around the river where it is washed clean. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Already replaced the seal for the chain tensioner, immediately after the head was installed and the first seal leaked because I wasn't careful and let the seal get cock-eyed while tightening. The other possible leakers I can think of are the vacuum pump/gasket and the timing case cracking at the serpentine belt tensioner mount. I may put some newspaper or cardboard under it in the driveway and spray a couple cans of brake cleaner to wash off the front of the engine, that may be enough to locate the leak. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 On August 13, 2015 7:55:33 PM EDT, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Dude! Way better to be sure _before_ you get out the wrenches! The chain tensioner is a heavy leaker, at times. -- Jim ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
And the seal runs on the crank, not the hub, on those engines. Replacement seals are a few mm deeper so they run on a clean part of the crank. No help is the leaking one is not the original... Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Anyone parting one of the following engines? OM601, 602, 603, or 606 non-turbo? M103 or M104? - Max Charleston SC I thought you said you had a leaky seal. Just pop out the old seal and put in a new one. That was the first MB repair I ever made. 40 some years ago. If you are worried about the crank damper being grooved, buy a repair sleeve. (from a bearing house) ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Peter, I've had mine apart and replaced the seal once already, and the seal rides the hub, hub goes over the end of the crank. I think mine is leaking because I used an aftermarket seal and the hub is scored. A few years ago the price for a new hub was about $80, now they are over $200. Manual says the seal can be set deeper if the hub is grooved, I tried that but maybe I didn't set it deep enough. I'd like to get a used hub and (if grooved) see if a machinist can weld a bead on the groove and then turn it down. Goal is to minimize down time. I'm also tempted to try JB Weld and sand/polish that smooth. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 Just put a collar on the damper where the seal rides. MUCH faster/simpler/cheaper. It is done all the time. Metric size is no problem as most seals or bearings on post WWII merkun stuff are metric. The brand on the last one I used is Dichtomatik Americas. Product is called shaft-eze. https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/en/products/Seals/ShaftEzeShaftSleeves.aspx If you have the seal number from the last one you used, take it to the bearing supply house and get a seal and the shaft -eze to match. Minimal down time as it will take you 5 min to install both when you get the damper off. The shaft-eze came with a steel cup to use to install it over the shaft or hub. Otherwise look up the MB part number and take that in. The bearing houses have good cross reference resources. OR, you can look it up on the SKF seal crossreference online from the MB part number. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
On Wed, 12 Aug 2015 20:58:08 -0500 Rick Knoble via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html I used one of these in the repair/refurbishment of our utility trailer a few months ago. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html Rick Sent from my BlackBerry Z10 Original Message From: Curly McLain via Mercedes Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2015 8:45 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List Cc: Curly McLain Subject: Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub Peter, I've had mine apart and replaced the seal once already, and the seal rides the hub, hub goes over the end of the crank. I think mine is leaking because I used an aftermarket seal and the hub is scored. A few years ago the price for a new hub was about $80, now they are over $200. Manual says the seal can be set deeper if the hub is grooved, I tried that but maybe I didn't set it deep enough. I'd like to get a used hub and (if grooved) see if a machinist can weld a bead on the groove and then turn it down. Goal is to minimize down time. I'm also tempted to try JB Weld and sand/polish that smooth. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 Just put a collar on the damper where the seal rides. MUCH faster/simpler/cheaper. It is done all the time. Metric size is no problem as most seals or bearings on post WWII merkun stuff are metric. The brand on the last one I used is Dichtomatik Americas. Product is called shaft-eze. https://catalog.dichtomatik.us/en/products/Seals/ShaftEzeShaftSleeves.aspx If you have the seal number from the last one you used, take it to the bearing supply house and get a seal and the shaft -eze to match. Minimal down time as it will take you 5 min to install both when you get the damper off. The shaft-eze came with a steel cup to use to install it over the shaft or hub. Otherwise look up the MB part number and take that in. The bearing houses have good cross reference resources. OR, you can look it up on the SKF seal crossreference online from the MB part number. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
http://www.skf.com/us/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html Rick Sent from my BlackBerry Z10 Yep, that'll work! Here is the seal cross reference. http://www.skf.com/binary/81-66344/457012.pdf You are looking for mer-ben that is their acronym for MB. Load the cross reference and do a search for the MB part number. Once you have the SKF number, any bearing house can get you the seal and the repair collar. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
Peter, I've had mine apart and replaced the seal once already, and the seal rides the hub, hub goes over the end of the crank. I think mine is leaking because I used an aftermarket seal and the hub is scored. A few years ago the price for a new hub was about $80, now they are over $200. Manual says the seal can be set deeper if the hub is grooved, I tried that but maybe I didn't set it deep enough. I'd like to get a used hub and (if grooved) see if a machinist can weld a bead on the groove and then turn it down. Goal is to minimize down time. I'm also tempted to try JB Weld and sand/polish that smooth. -- Max Dillon Charleston SC '87 300TD '95 E300 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] WTB: crankshaft hub
On Wed, 12 Aug 2015 15:17:28 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote: Anyone parting one of the following engines? OM601, 602, 603, or 606 non-turbo? M103 or M104? - Our former '95 E320 had an M104, but I can't get to it now. Sorry. Craig ___ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
