subject:"ADVICE PLEASE"

Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-20 Thread John

I've never been an active plane spotter, but I've been goofy over airplanes for 
as long as I can remember. There was a time when I knew ALL of the military 
airplanes & who flew them. (nation, service branch, ...)


When I was a child (around 1955 or so) the Air Force still put on flying 
demonstrations on Memorial Day.


They would fly formations of aircraft around the state and there must have been 
some kind of press release giving a schedule of when they would be passing over 
certain points because I remember knowing what time & which direction to look 
for them.


Around here it was mostly C-47s & C-119 Flying Boxcars (because Ft Bragg & the 
82nd). I don't think the Air Force started using C-130s until after the DoD 
phased out those aerial power demonstrations.


And what looked like B-29 bombers, which I now think might have been KB-50 
tanker aircraft and KC-97 Stratotankers along with C-97 Stratofreighters (all 
developed from the B-29 air frame).


I also remember formations of propeller driven fighters, probably P-51s, but 
might have included A-1 Skyraiders. I believe the Air Force Reserve still had a 
few P-51s in the mid-50s.


The other thing I remember is B-52 bombers coming in low over US 70 east of 
Goldsboro, NC (landing at Seymour Johnson AFB).


They'd have been about a mile from their touchdown point on the runway and they 
are *HUGE* when you see them up close only a couple hundred feet off the ground.


The impression from seeing them in the air like that is even more dramatic than 
when you see them on the ground when they're on static display at an AFB open house.


And just a bit farther down the road you passed by Cherry Point and there were 
often various USMC or Navy aircraft passing low over the highway on their way to 
the runway (4,000 ft from the threshold on 5R).


The other one that is amazing to see in the air from that vantage point (close 
up under the flight path when they're landing) is the C5 Galaxy, but they 
weren't around when I was a child; first introduced in 1970.



On 8/19/2021 20:49:40, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote:

I remember plane-spotting for Vampires and Venoms flying out of the FAA base in 
Hampshire - and Spitfires (Mk19) were
the first I ticked off in my spotter's book.
First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
something else!


John in Brisbane



-Original Message-
From: Steve Cottrell 
Sent: Friday, 20 August 2021 6:10 AM
To: pentax list 
Subject: Re: ADVICE PLEASE

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread John Francis

On Fri, Aug 20, 2021 at 10:49:40AM +1000, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote:
> First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
> coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
> something else!

Biggin Hill was about 10 miles from where I grew up; we were almost due east of 
the airfield (over mostly open country), so whenever Biggin Hill had an airshow 
there was a good chance we'd see interesting aircraft flying overhead.

A friend of mine flew out of Biggin Hill occasionally.  He took me up a couple 
of times.  The first time he (probably quite illegally) buzzed our house at a 
fairly low level.  The second time we popped across the channel to Le Touquet 
for lunch. That was an interesting flight; on the way back the fuel gauge 
suddenly dropped to zero halfway across the channel. Not only that - the radio 
cut out, too, which made it rather tricky to talk to the control tower at Lydd. 
 Fortunately the problem was a part of the wiring harness coming loose; it took 
a technician at Lydd only a few minutes to find and fix the problem.  Or course 
without a radio it was a little awkward getting permission to land ...
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RE: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread jcoyle

I remember plane-spotting for Vampires and Venoms flying out of the FAA base in 
Hampshire - and Spitfires (Mk19) were
the first I ticked off in my spotter's book.
First actual air show I went to was at Biggin Hill: the sight of Spitfires 
coming up out of the valley in a low pass was
something else!


John in Brisbane



-Original Message-
From: Steve Cottrell  
Sent: Friday, 20 August 2021 6:10 AM
To: pentax list 
Subject: Re: ADVICE PLEASE

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread Rick Womer

He just has to wing it.

> On Aug 19, 2021, at 4:23 PM, l...@red4est.com wrote:
> 
> Yeah, gotta give him props
> 
> On August 19, 2021 1:09:59 PM PDT, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
>> Holy Moses!
>> 
>> Cot
>> 
>> On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:
>> 
>> I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread lrc

Yeah, gotta give him props

On August 19, 2021 1:09:59 PM PDT, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
>Holy Moses!
>
>Cot
>
>On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:
>
>I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread Steve Cottrell

Holy Moses!

Cot

On 19 Aug 2021, at 19:41, John  wrote:

I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-19 Thread John


That's the first thing you need to do, get in as close as you legally & safely 
can.

Manual focus, hyper-focal distance (or whatever is the correct term for that 
thing where you pre-set the focus so DOF goes from here to infinity), shutter 
speed around 1/125 sec to get an acceptable propeller blur, crank the ISO to get 
a decent exposure with the chosen combination of aperture & shutter speed, pan 
so the rest of the airframe is NOT too blurred & shoot in bursts.


If you get one exposure as the plane goes past it's 99% likely it's not going to 
be good enough. If you get 5-10 exposures on a single pass, it's 99% likely that 
at least one of them will be.


I've shot some air-shows and while I didn't get many good images, that's the 
combination that seemed to produce the *most* acceptable images.


On 8/18/2021 00:20:39, Alan C wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying to 
photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point focusing. 
I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the camera just 
couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't try panning.


Today is the first day of the 4 day competition. Yesterday was official practice 
but spectators could not actually get access to the airfield. From today, 
limited access will be possible subject to Covid restrictions. There is a large 
rooftop area above the terminal which would will be perfect, otherwise I'll just 
have to find a suitable place.


Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread John


I remember when they flew the Grumman F-11 Tiger.

On 8/17/2021 16:25:33, Steve Cottrell wrote:

Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-19 Thread John


On 8/17/2021 15:39:09, John Francis wrote:

On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:

The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!


Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
(which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
--


I find 1/125 is about the fastest shutter speed I can use for propeller driven 
aircraft and still get sufficient propeller blur it doesn't look wrong.





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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-18 Thread Larry Colen




> On Aug 18, 2021, at 8:27 AM, Daniel J. Matyola  wrote:
> 
> Interesting set, and some very fine shots there.

Thank you, but Alan just forwarded the link I included in my reply, perhaps it 
was in his copy/paste buffer rather than his own photos.


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-18 Thread Daniel J. Matyola

Interesting set, and some very fine shots there.

Dan Matyola
*https://tinyurl.com/DJM-Pentax-Gallery
*



On Wed, Aug 18, 2021 at 12:20 AM Alan C  wrote:

> Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.
>
> And some stunt planes:
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/
>
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-18 Thread ann sanfedele

THe way this thread has developed it looked like the link to the red 
planes was from Alan.. I've only skimmed it but I finally realised that 
Larry was sending examples of his work to Alan with the setting details..


then I saw "ellarsee' In the link.. before I said to Alan that it look 
liked he nailed several of them in terms of sharpness and geometry..

hehe..

ann


On 8/18/2021 1:22 AM, Alan C wrote:

Thanks Larry.

Interesting Eagles. There are a couple of Pitts here. Some other very 
fast flashy looking jobs too! I'll need to get a programme to find out 
what they all are.


I'll get it right over the next couple of days. Probably the last 
chance I'll get of seeing something like this.   Ellies are much easier!


Alan C

On 18-Aug-21 06:54 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit 
like trying to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively. Tried single, 5 point & 11 
point focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus 
modes the camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no 
lens creep. Didn't try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-17 Thread Alan C


Thanks Larry.

Interesting Eagles. There are a couple of Pitts here. Some other very 
fast flashy looking jobs too! I'll need to get a programme to find out 
what they all are.


I'll get it right over the next couple of days. Probably the last chance 
I'll get of seeing something like this.   Ellies are much easier!


Alan C

On 18-Aug-21 06:54 AM, Larry Colen wrote:



On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:

Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/

The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying 
to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle



I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the camera 
just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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l...@red4est.com


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-17 Thread Larry Colen



> On Aug 17, 2021, at 9:20 PM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.
> 
> And some stunt planes: 
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/
> 
> The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like trying 
> to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!

There’s a really good chance that they are eagles:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aviat_Eagle


> 
> I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
> focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the 
> camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. Didn't 
> try panning.

Yeah, sounds like you need to go full manual to get a chance at focus.

If it was easy, anybody could do it.


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l...@red4est.com


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Re: ADVICE PLEASE (WRAP UP?)

2021-08-17 Thread Alan C


Thanks all. This image pretty well sums it up.

And some stunt planes: 
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/


The planes are just too distant - too small - out of range. A bit like 
trying to photograph an eagle in flight at 300m!


I used TAV 1000sec,  f8 exclusively.  Tried single, 5 point & 11 point 
focusing. I started by focusing on the moon. In all auto focus modes the 
camera just couldn't lock on to the planes. There was no lens creep. 
Didn't try panning.


Today is the first day of the 4 day competition. Yesterday was official 
practice but spectators could not actually get access to the airfield. 
From today, limited access will be possible subject to Covid 
restrictions. There is a large rooftop area above the terminal which 
would will be perfect, otherwise I'll just have to find a suitable place.


Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Henk Terhell

You may have to move your viewpoint of the camera along with the traject 
of the plane (as I usually do with birds and dragonflies)


Henk

Op 2021-08-17 om 19:41 schreef Alan C:
The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in 
Phalaborwa with plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried 
everything but just don't seem to be able to focus on fast moving 
aircraft at height. I get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. 
Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps screw drive is too slow? 
I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the Sigma 170-500 DG @ 
500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!


The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are 
taking part. The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years 
ago so this is quite something. Of course there are several wet 
blankets complaining about the noise.



Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Steve Cottrell

Yep, Moffett Field air show - pretty sure they were Phantoms…….


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:28, Larry Colen  wrote:

I think I remember seeing them at Moffett during that era, but it didn’t 
register that they were F4s.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

I only ever use manual focus for these kinds of subjects and shooting 
situations. I pick the framed field I want to catch the car or plane in, find 
something static to set the focus, and then just follow and frame until the 
subject hits my "release the shutter" mark, which depends on the particular 
cameras response time. 

It just takes some practice. :)

G

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
> The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
> something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the 
> noise.
> 
> 
> Alan C
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Larry Colen



> On Aug 17, 2021, at 1:25 PM, Steve Cottrell  wrote:
> 
> Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)

I think I remember seeing them at Moffett during that era, but it didn’t 
register that they were F4s.


> 
> 
> On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when 
> they were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
> https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Steve Cottrell

Remember when they were F4 Phantoms? ;-)


On 17 Aug 2021, at 21:17, Larry Colen  wrote:

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Larry Colen



> On Aug 17, 2021, at 12:39 PM, John Francis  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:
>> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
>> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
>> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
>> MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
>> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
>> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
> (which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
> move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
> If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
> stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

That’s a very good point.  I would suggest shooting in TAv and really cranking 
up the shutter speed.  If that makes the blur go away, you can drop the shutter 
speed to recover a bit of noise and dynamic range.  By the same token, maybe 
not shoot wide open to get a bit more depth of field.

I had forgotten about my attempts a couple of years ago

Looking at some photos from a couple of years ago, the blue angels were 
practicing for the Salinas airshow and the pot farm I was working at was pretty 
much directly under their flight path, so when they were practicing I’d take a 
break and grab some photos.

It looks like I’d shoot at f/8 and either 1/800 or 1/1000 in TAv mode when they 
were close, using a K-3 and Sigma 50-500:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157677323484307/

Also a DeHaviland Vampire:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157704200196382/

And some stunt planes:
https://www.fluidr.com/photos/ellarsee/sets/72157705985048831/

> 
> While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
> then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
> be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Ralf R Radermacher


Am 17.08.21 um 19:41 schrieb Alan C:

I've tried everything but
just don't seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I
get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless.


Could it be that you're pointing the camera upwards and your lens is
creeping out of focus?

Ralf

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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread John Francis

On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 07:41:12PM +0200, Alan C wrote:
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with
> MF but AF.S?? AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!

Are you sure it's focus that is your problem?  A plane flying at 250mph
(which is what the faster aerobatic planes seem to be capable of) will
move over a foot in 1/250 of a second - more than enough to blur the shot.
If you haven't had a lot of practice panning to keep your target relatively
stationary in the viewfinder you're going to see quite a few fuzzy shots.

While you can elimnate much of the motion with higher shutter speeds you
then end up with shots that look strange because the propellers appear to
be almost stationary (e.g. http://www.panix.com/~johnf/temp/FatAlbert.jpg)
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread ann sanfedele

Maybe those planes get closer than one would expect... maybe that is why 
the wet blankets are complaining :-)


OK,   on a serious note  what Bob said makes sense to me.. and easier

ann

On 8/17/2021 2:50 PM, Bob Pdml wrote:

Surely the planes are at infinity or beyond? So why focus at all? Choose your 
focal length and aperture, set it manually to infinity focus, or the hyperfocal 
distance, and leave it. Or am I missing something?




On 17 Aug 2021, at 19:12, Larry Colen  wrote:

I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would try 
A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s suggestion 
of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, wait until 
the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.


On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:

The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with plenty 
of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't seem to be able 
to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are 
hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps screw drive is too slow? I've 
tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can 
focus just fine on the quarter moon!

The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the noise.

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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Bob Pdml

Surely the planes are at infinity or beyond? So why focus at all? Choose your 
focal length and aperture, set it manually to infinity focus, or the hyperfocal 
distance, and leave it. Or am I missing something?



> On 17 Aug 2021, at 19:12, Larry Colen  wrote:
> 
> I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would 
> try A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s 
> suggestion of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, 
> wait until the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.
> 
>> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
>> 
>> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
>> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
>> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
>> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
>> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
>> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
>> 
>> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking 
>> part. The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this 
>> is quite something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining 
>> about the noise.
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Re: ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Larry Colen

I have never found a single solution that works all of the time.  I would try 
A-9 AF-S set up in the center, also manual.  I agree with Godfrey’s suggestion 
of planning ahead. Pre-focus so that things are close to in focus, wait until 
the subject is close to in focus and within the 9 selected points.

> On Aug 17, 2021, at 10:41 AM, Alan C  wrote:
> 
> The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa with 
> plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but just don't 
> seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I get close with 
> MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can enlighten me? Perhaps 
> screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the 
> Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just fine on the quarter moon!
> 
> The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking part. 
> The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so this is quite 
> something. Of course there are several wet blankets complaining about the 
> noise.
> 
> 
> Alan C
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ADVICE PLEASE

2021-08-17 Thread Alan C

The South African Aerobatic Championships is currently on in Phalaborwa 
with plenty of Photographic opportunities. I've tried everything but 
just don't seem to be able to focus on fast moving aircraft at height. I 
get close with MF but AF.S  AF.C are hopeless. Perhaps someone can 
enlighten me? Perhaps screw drive is too slow? I've tried the K5 with 
the HD 55-300 @ 300mm & the Sigma 170-500 DG @ 500mm. I can focus just 
fine on the quarter moon!


The Airfield is less than 1Km from my house! About 40 planes are taking 
part. The last event like this in Phalaborwa was about 25years ago so 
this is quite something. Of course there are several wet blankets 
complaining about the noise.



Alan C
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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-14 Thread AlunFoto

2010/2/12 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com:
 So Dag, Stig Vidar, Jostein and other Norwegians, please look the other
 way.

 Look the other way?

 Get them to model for a calendar of Norewegian Pentaxians

Har!

That WOULD make you look the other way.

Jostein

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-12 Thread P. J. Alling

It's been done, but since most things have been done, don't let that 
stop you.


On 2/11/2010 5:13 PM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

Yep. Thats where she got the idea. She has just finished fighting cancer.
The basic idea is the same. But we intend to do it with a little twist.

Maybe play a little with different art icons. Place regular, but
undressed, women in them.


MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



2010/2/11 ann sanfedeleann...@nyc.rr.com:
   

Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren about
a real group of women who
did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

Possibly where your friend got the idea?
ann

Tim Øsleby wrote:

 

This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
So I'm giving it another go:

I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
has invited me in.
I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
a needlepoint.
So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
some money for a worthy case.
(Not a very political case).


MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/


   



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{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\deff0\deflang1033{\fonttbl{\f0\fnil\fcharset0 Courier 
New;}}
\viewkind4\uc1\pard\f0\fs20 I've just upgraded to Thunderbird 3.0 and the 
interface subtly weird.\par
}


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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-12 Thread Tim Øsleby

I don't think it has been done in Norway yet.

So if me and my crew are first to steal here, it will be almost original.
THAT could give us some free marketing advantages.

So Dag, Stig Vidar, Jostein and other Norwegians, please look the other way.

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http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



2010/2/12 P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com:
 It's been done, but since most things have been done, don't let that stop
 you.

 On 2/11/2010 5:13 PM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

 Yep. Thats where she got the idea. She has just finished fighting cancer.
 The basic idea is the same. But we intend to do it with a little twist.

 Maybe play a little with different art icons. Place regular, but
 undressed, women in them.


 MaritimTim

 http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



 2010/2/11 ann sanfedeleann...@nyc.rr.com:


 Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren
 about
 a real group of women who
 did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

 http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

 Possibly where your friend got the idea?
 ann

 Tim Øsleby wrote:



 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:

 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).


 MaritimTim

 http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/





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 PDML@pdml.net
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 follow the directions.






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 {\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\deff0\deflang1033{\fonttbl{\f0\fnil\fcharset0
 Courier New;}}
 \viewkind4\uc1\pard\f0\fs20 I've just upgraded to Thunderbird 3.0 and the
 interface subtly weird.\par
 }


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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-12 Thread Larry Colen



On Feb 12, 2010, at 12:58 PM, Tim Øsleby wrote:


I don't think it has been done in Norway yet.

So if me and my crew are first to steal here, it will be almost  
original.

THAT could give us some free marketing advantages.

So Dag, Stig Vidar, Jostein and other Norwegians, please look the  
other way.


Look the other way?

Get them to model for a calendar of Norewegian Pentaxians

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-12 Thread Tim Øsleby

I for one looks a lot better in my high cut thong than in my birthday suit.

But hm ... There will be a Norwegain Pentaxians meeting in april. Maybe ...

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2010/2/12 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com:

 On Feb 12, 2010, at 12:58 PM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

 I don't think it has been done in Norway yet.

 So if me and my crew are first to steal here, it will be almost original.
 THAT could give us some free marketing advantages.

 So Dag, Stig Vidar, Jostein and other Norwegians, please look the other
 way.

 Look the other way?

 Get them to model for a calendar of Norewegian Pentaxians

 --
 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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 follow the directions.


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Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread Tim Øsleby

This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
So I'm giving it another go:

I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
has invited me in.
I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
a needlepoint.
So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
some money for a worthy case.
(Not a very political case).


MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread paul stenquist

Posing nude for a cause has become almost a cliche. Numerous groups have done 
books and calendars since a group of Yorkshire women who did a calendar were 
immortalized in a movie about seven years ago. 
See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calendar_Girls

In terms of shooting the nudes, I'd just look into some good books on figure 
photography. There are thousands of them out there. Go to a book store and 
thumb through a few until you find something that answers your questions. They 
take a variety of approaches.

In the end, it's just about good subtle light. Avoid hot spots and hard light. 
Retouch those zits! You're probably fine just using your instincts.
Paul

On Feb 11, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:
 
 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.
 
 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).
 
 
 MaritimTim
 
 http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/
 
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 http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread mike wilson


 Tim Øsleby maritim...@gmail.com wrote: 
 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:
 
 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.
 
 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).


I'm sure Taschen had a book called 1000 nudes, which would keep you, er, busy 
for a while.  But I can't find it.
http://www.taschen.com/pages/en/catalogue/photography/index.htm

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread ann sanfedele

Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren 
about a real group of women who

did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

Possibly where your friend got the idea?  


ann

Tim Øsleby wrote:


This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
So I'm giving it another go:

I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
has invited me in.
I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
a needlepoint.
So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
some money for a worthy case.
(Not a very political case).


MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/

 





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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread mike wilson


ann sanfedele wrote:
Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren 
about a real group of women who

did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

Possibly where your friend got the idea? 
ann


Tim Øsleby wrote:


This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
So I'm giving it another go:

I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
has invited me in.
I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
a needlepoint.
So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
some money for a worthy case.
(Not a very political case).


http://www.amazon.co.uk/1000-Nudes-Scheid-Collection-Klotz/dp/3822855693

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread mike wilson


mike wilson wrote:


ann sanfedele wrote:

Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren 
about a real group of women who

did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

Possibly where your friend got the idea? ann

Tim Øsleby wrote:


This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
So I'm giving it another go:

I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
has invited me in.
I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
a needlepoint.
So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
some money for a worthy case.
(Not a very political case).



http://www.amazon.co.uk/1000-Nudes-Scheid-Collection-Klotz/dp/3822855693


And a sample of the contents:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Uwe-Scheid-Collection

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread Tim Øsleby

Yep. Thats where she got the idea. She has just finished fighting cancer.
The basic idea is the same. But we intend to do it with a little twist.

Maybe play a little with different art icons. Place regular, but
undressed, women in them.


MaritimTim

http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



2010/2/11 ann sanfedele ann...@nyc.rr.com:
 Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren about
 a real group of women who
 did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

 http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

 Possibly where your friend got the idea?
 ann

 Tim Øsleby wrote:

 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:

 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).


 MaritimTim

 http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/





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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread Tim Øsleby

Thanks Mike

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http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/



2010/2/11 mike wilson m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com:
 ann sanfedele wrote:

 Tim -- Watch a British film called calendar girls  with Helen Mirren
 about a real group of women who
 did this back in 2001.  The film was made in 2003.

 http://www.chasingthefrog.com/reelfaces/calendargirls.php

 Possibly where your friend got the idea? ann

 Tim Øsleby wrote:

 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:

 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).

 http://www.amazon.co.uk/1000-Nudes-Scheid-Collection-Klotz/dp/3822855693

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread Tim Øsleby

I'm not sure I can trust my instinct photographing naked women.

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2010/2/11 paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net:
 Posing nude for a cause has become almost a cliche. Numerous groups have done 
 books and calendars since a group of Yorkshire women who did a calendar were 
 immortalized in a movie about seven years ago. 
 See:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calendar_Girls

 In terms of shooting the nudes, I'd just look into some good books on figure 
 photography. There are thousands of them out there. Go to a book store and 
 thumb through a few until you find something that answers your questions. 
 They take a variety of approaches.

 In the end, it's just about good subtle light. Avoid hot spots and hard 
 light. Retouch those zits! You're probably fine just using your instincts.
 Paul

 On Feb 11, 2010, at 8:01 AM, Tim Øsleby wrote:

 This message never showed up on the list. I have only myself to blame.
 So I'm giving it another go:

 I have a woman friend who plans to do a collective nude project and
 has invited me in.
 I'm game, but my knowledge about nude photography could be written at
 a needlepoint.
 So now i need to read up on the subject before starting to train up my
 non existent skills. I am prepared to buy more than one book, because
 I think I need input with different approaches to the subject.

 It is not a glam project, or not a erotic project. It is simply about
 normal woman who takes of their clothes to make a statement to raise
 some money for a worthy case.
 (Not a very political case).


 MaritimTim

 http://maritimtim.blogspot.com/

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Re: Book advice please (Nude photography)

2010-02-11 Thread Cotty

On 11/2/10, Tim Øsleby, discombobulated, unleashed:

I'm not sure I can trust my instinct photographing naked women.

That's definitely a T-shirt.

Mark!

-- 


Cheers,
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Re: Design advice please...image attribution on photos

2008-10-07 Thread Bob Sullivan

Stan,
My first thought would be adding your attribution pages at the end.
I suppose tiny names in the photo margins is too much.
It's a noble endeavor in any case.
Perhaps you should just say 125 photos by Stan Halpin,
60 each by Jimmy, Joe, and Karen, and
the remainder by Sally, Sue, ...
Regards,  Bob S.

On Mon, Oct 6, 2008 at 10:34 PM, Stan Halpin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Good thought Doug, but it won't work universally as many of the formats I've
 used don't have a space for captions. But maybe a mixed solution, using
 caption space where available, maybe even modify the formatting on some of
 the pages to add in caption space... I'll ponder a bit.

 And Ann, I am going to think some more about your suggestions on a more
 generic attribution and/or a listing of photo credits. There are page
 numbers, though they don't show up on the full bleed pages, so in some
 sections they are sporadic.

 stan

 On Oct 6, 2008, at 10:26 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:

 Stan Halpin wrote:

 My question has to do with attribution of the photos.

 Personally, I'd do the attributions in the caption text rather than
 modifying the image.

 --
 Thanks,
 DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Design advice please...image attribution on photos

2008-10-06 Thread Stan Halpin

So here I am in the final (?) throes of compiling/editing a Blurb  
book representing a one-week trip by 19 of us from my church. The  
sparse text mostly authored by me, with a few reflections authored  
by and attributed to others. Of the 375 images, I would guess that  
about 100-125 are mine, another 60-75 or so from each of three  
persons, the remainder split among another 3 persons. On the cover,  
etc. I show myself as Editor rather than author.


My question has to do with attribution of the photos. My original  
idea was to imprint the photographer's name on each photo when  
exporting from LightRoom, using the EXIF data which I processed on  
input to insure that the provenance of each shot would not be lost.  
As some of you may know from my earlier mutterings, LR always places  
the imprint on the lower left corner. Which doesn't work for a  
variety of reasons having to do with the way Blurb works. (Including  
the trim on full-bleed layouts, the mismatch between image aspect  
ratio and Blurb aspect ratio, etc.)


One of you pointed me to a LightRoom Plug-In: LR2/Mogrify. Highly  
recommended, allows for imprints/overlays with nice control of  
location. And borders and other goodies.


Now that I have the tool, my dilemma has to do with design. Do I  
imprint every photo to give attribution to the photographer? Looks  
kind of busy on a page with 6-8 small images. Particularly if 5-7 of  
them are by the same person. (There are some pages that are all mine,  
there are one or two with all by another person, but most with more  
than 2 images derive from at least two different photographers.) (It  
is also a fair amount of work, quite a few evenings worth, to  
regenerate all of the images with proper aspect ratio and proper  
attribution imprint.) Or do I compile a list to put on the last page  
(e.g., p 38 - all images by Stan Halpin except for upper left corner,  
by Alan Smith)? Forget about attribution altogether? (This option  
would hurt; I think the quality of mine is better than most of the  
other shots, I would like to claim credit. I don't think the others  
would really care one way or another.) (I guess I could say in the  
preface: all high quality photos are by Stan, except for the one on  
page 23 and the left-most one on page 113...)


Oh, and one added complication: how about the shots of us as a group,  
taken with an identifiable camera but by the random waitress,  
stewardess, or passer-by?


Any preferences for one of the above, or is there another option I am  
missing? (In context, humility and lack of attribution are probably  
the right course of action, but I am resisting.)


stan

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Re: Design advice please...image attribution on photos

2008-10-06 Thread ann sanfedele


Stan - are the pages numbered?  then (as much as a PITA) as it is, you
can list photographers and names on one page with the page numbers
where their photos appear  leave attribution off group photos...
Or just write a little paragraph something like you just told us...
Most photos herein were taken by  except for blah blah page.

Or cover photo(s) by your editor others within by sundry
photographers ..and their names... copyright the thing as a whole...

just random thoughts

ann


Stan Halpin wrote:

So here I am in the final (?) throes of compiling/editing a Blurb  
book representing a one-week trip by 19 of us from my church. The  
sparse text mostly authored by me, with a few reflections authored  
by and attributed to others. Of the 375 images, I would guess that  
about 100-125 are mine, another 60-75 or so from each of three  
persons, the remainder split among another 3 persons. On the cover,  
etc. I show myself as Editor rather than author.


My question has to do with attribution of the photos. My original  
idea was to imprint the photographer's name on each photo when  
exporting from LightRoom, using the EXIF data which I processed on  
input to insure that the provenance of each shot would not be lost.  
As some of you may know from my earlier mutterings, LR always places  
the imprint on the lower left corner. Which doesn't work for a  
variety of reasons having to do with the way Blurb works. (Including  
the trim on full-bleed layouts, the mismatch between image aspect  
ratio and Blurb aspect ratio, etc.)


One of you pointed me to a LightRoom Plug-In: LR2/Mogrify. Highly  
recommended, allows for imprints/overlays with nice control of  
location. And borders and other goodies.


Now that I have the tool, my dilemma has to do with design. Do I  
imprint every photo to give attribution to the photographer? Looks  
kind of busy on a page with 6-8 small images. Particularly if 5-7 of  
them are by the same person. (There are some pages that are all mine,  
there are one or two with all by another person, but most with more  
than 2 images derive from at least two different photographers.) (It  
is also a fair amount of work, quite a few evenings worth, to  
regenerate all of the images with proper aspect ratio and proper  
attribution imprint.) Or do I compile a list to put on the last page  
(e.g., p 38 - all images by Stan Halpin except for upper left corner,  
by Alan Smith)? Forget about attribution altogether? (This option  
would hurt; I think the quality of mine is better than most of the  
other shots, I would like to claim credit. I don't think the others  
would really care one way or another.) (I guess I could say in the  
preface: all high quality photos are by Stan, except for the one on  
page 23 and the left-most one on page 113...)


Oh, and one added complication: how about the shots of us as a group,  
taken with an identifiable camera but by the random waitress,  
stewardess, or passer-by?


Any preferences for one of the above, or is there another option I am  
missing? (In context, humility and lack of attribution are probably  
the right course of action, but I am resisting.)


stan

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Re: Design advice please...image attribution on photos

2008-10-06 Thread Doug Franklin


Stan Halpin wrote:


My question has to do with attribution of the photos.


Personally, I'd do the attributions in the caption text rather than 
modifying the image.


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Re: Design advice please...image attribution on photos

2008-10-06 Thread Stan Halpin

Good thought Doug, but it won't work universally as many of the  
formats I've used don't have a space for captions. But maybe a mixed  
solution, using caption space where available, maybe even modify the  
formatting on some of the pages to add in caption space... I'll  
ponder a bit.


And Ann, I am going to think some more about your suggestions on a  
more generic attribution and/or a listing of photo credits. There are  
page numbers, though they don't show up on the full bleed pages, so  
in some sections they are sporadic.


stan

On Oct 6, 2008, at 10:26 PM, Doug Franklin wrote:


Stan Halpin wrote:


My question has to do with attribution of the photos.


Personally, I'd do the attributions in the caption text rather than  
modifying the image.


--
Thanks,
DougF (KG4LMZ)

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Sturdy advice, please!

2007-09-16 Thread Mike Hamilton

I'm looking to buy a decent tripod and ballhead.  I've selected a  
couple of Benro legs, but I'm unsure which would be most appropriate.  
Their C-027 legs support up to 5.5lbs, and the C-228 legs support  
17.6 lbs.  My heaviest setup will be K10D (1.7lbs) and DA 14mm  
(1.0lb).  Will the C-027 legs be enough for that setup?

The C-027 legs save 1.3lbs over the larger C-228, and an additional $70.

Advice?

I'll be pairing it with a Manfrotto 484RC2 ballhead.

Mike

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Re: Sturdy advice, please!

2007-09-16 Thread P. J. Alling

It depends, are you planning to use them in the studio are carrying them 
in the field. You'll curse every extra pound if you're going far afield. 
On the other hand you can't have too heavy a tripod if it's not being 
moved much.


Mike Hamilton wrote:
 I'm looking to buy a decent tripod and ballhead.  I've selected a  
 couple of Benro legs, but I'm unsure which would be most appropriate.  
 Their C-027 legs support up to 5.5lbs, and the C-228 legs support  
 17.6 lbs.  My heaviest setup will be K10D (1.7lbs) and DA 14mm  
 (1.0lb).  Will the C-027 legs be enough for that setup?

 The C-027 legs save 1.3lbs over the larger C-228, and an additional $70.

 Advice?

 I'll be pairing it with a Manfrotto 484RC2 ballhead.

 Mike

   


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Remember, it’s pillage then burn.


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Re: Sturdy advice, please!

2007-09-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

I've seen the Benro line at the local store and find them pretty  
nicely made. But look to see how much elevation you'll get without  
the column extended ... that was the kicker for me with most of the  
legs I saw from Gitzo and Manfrotto. I would have had to go with a  
larger, heavier set of legs rated 11-13 lbs to get the elevation I  
wanted without having to raise the column all the time.

I like to use column adjustment for fine elevation control, usually  
the last couple of inches, rather than just to get necessary  
elevation. The tripod is more stable that way.

I ended up with a set of Feisol CT-3442 legs. They're beautifully made:
- very very light (2.27 lbs)
- support up to 22 lbs
- pack down to 18.9 in total length ... the legs fold up over the  
head so
   the total package length remains small. The case is cylindrical  
and about 5.5 in diameter.
- max height without column 54.3 in, with column about another 13.
- min height without column 6.3 in

The column is an optional accessory. I paid $380 for these legs with  
column kit, all tools and non-column head support and case, including  
direct express shipping from Taiwan. Total all up weight with an  
Acratech Ultimate Ball Head (bought separately) fitted including the  
case is 4.3 lbs. It's the best tripod for my use I've found to  
date ... rock steady with the Nikkor 180/2.8AI lens fitted to the  
Panasonic L1, my heaviest/highest magnification camera/lens assembly  
at present ... and simple to use. I sold both my Manfrotto legs and  
heads once I had this setup.

Their website is pretty funky. Click on English and then New  
Products for the specs, then Direct Purchase Instruction to order.  
They were very responsive to email, and the order was at my door  
within four days of being placed.

   http://www.feisol.com

I don't know what price you're looking at on the Benros. These were  
not cheap, but are a darn sight better for this money than anything  
else I could find.

Godfrey


On Sep 16, 2007, at 8:06 AM, Mike Hamilton wrote:

 I'm looking to buy a decent tripod and ballhead.  I've selected a
 couple of Benro legs, but I'm unsure which would be most appropriate.
 Their C-027 legs support up to 5.5lbs, and the C-228 legs support
 17.6 lbs.  My heaviest setup will be K10D (1.7lbs) and DA 14mm
 (1.0lb).  Will the C-027 legs be enough for that setup?

 The C-027 legs save 1.3lbs over the larger C-228, and an additional  
 $70.

 Advice?

 I'll be pairing it with a Manfrotto 484RC2 ballhead.

 Mike


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Sturdy Advice, Please!

2007-09-16 Thread Mike Hamilton

On 16-Sep-07, at 9:44 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've seen the Benro line at the local store and find them pretty
 nicely made. But look to see how much elevation you'll get without
 the column extended ... that was the kicker for me with most of the
 legs I saw from Gitzo and Manfrotto. I would have had to go with a
 larger, heavier set of legs rated 11-13 lbs to get the elevation I
 wanted without having to raise the column all the time.


The C-228 legs have a max height of 51 w/o center column.  The C-027  
sit at 46.  Seems kind of low!  I stand 68.


 I don't know what price you're looking at on the Benros. These were
 not cheap, but are a darn sight better for this money than anything
 else I could find.

The C-228 is $199 at BH.  The C-027 is $129.  Both are CF.

Thanks for the tips.

Mike

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Re: Sturdy advice, please!

2007-09-16 Thread Tim Øsleby

You probably know this, but It is not only about weight. You also need to 
concider the focal length you are going to use. An 14mm one pund lens is an 
easy load, but a one pound 300mm demands a lot more.

I don't know all the different Benro models, but my C-458 takes a lot of 
abbuse and are steady as a log. So they seem to know what they are doing.

Tim Typo
Mostly Harmless

- Original Message - 
From: Mike Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pdml@pdml.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: Sturdy advice, please!


 I'm looking to buy a decent tripod and ballhead.  I've selected a
 couple of Benro legs, but I'm unsure which would be most appropriate.
 Their C-027 legs support up to 5.5lbs, and the C-228 legs support
 17.6 lbs.  My heaviest setup will be K10D (1.7lbs) and DA 14mm
 (1.0lb).  Will the C-027 legs be enough for that setup?

 The C-027 legs save 1.3lbs over the larger C-228, and an additional $70.

 Advice?

 I'll be pairing it with a Manfrotto 484RC2 ballhead.

 Mike

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Re: Sturdy Advice, Please!

2007-09-16 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

On Sep 16, 2007, at 9:21 AM, Mike Hamilton wrote:

 The C-228 legs have a max height of 51 w/o center column.  The C-027
 sit at 46.  Seems kind of low!  I stand 68.

Heads typically add 2.5-3.5 inches to the static height of the tripod  
up to the head seat, and the camera adds another increment too (which  
varies depending upon camera, portrait and landscapt orientation...).

I found the range I wanted, after measuring things a lot, was 51 to  
56 inches, the more the better. The larger of these two, then, would  
be acceptable per my criteria.

 The C-228 is $199 at BH.

So the ones I got would be just shy of about double the price. I felt  
the additional load capacity and height, along with the low weight  
and compactness, was worth it ... but that's a call only you can  
make. :-)

Godfrey

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Re: More problems my funky DS - advice, please

2007-09-08 Thread Bob Sullivan

Charles,

Jiggle with that pin/door you replaced.
It sounds like the interlock switch on the SD card door is not well aligned.
That door has to register as closed for the camera to be powered up.
Look at the door latch itself... maybe a fraction of a mm out of true?
Your finger push by the door disengages the micro switch.

Local repairman an option?  Or give Pentax a call and ask to speak to
the repair techs, not the phone folks, the actual techs.

Regards,  Bob S.


On 9/8/07, Charles Robinson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well, the problem I had a couple months ago with the SD card door
 being sticky... turns out to have only been the tip of the iceberg.

 The door problem was resolved by removing the hinge pin and
 straightening it - as something had bent it (ouch - a tough drop
 somewhere along the way).

 Now I've noticed another problem and it is probably related.  The
 camera will shut itself off randomly/unpredictably.

 After playing with it for a while, I realized that if I held it in my
 left hand, with the SD card-door-side of the camera pointing straight
 up, it will stay on.

 Then I can take my right index finger and poke a few different spots
 along the rubber grip on the right-hand side of the camera, and it
 will shut off.  It turns right back on again (usually) when the
 pressure is released.

 SO - clearly whatever damaged the hinge pin for the SD door has also
 broken some sort of circuit inside the camera under the grip.  The
 question I have (or the advice I'm looking for) is whether or not
 it's worth the trouble/cost to get it fixed.  Or, has anyone dived
 inside their DS when they had nothing left to lose, and found that
 it's not that difficult a task to disassemble that side of the
 camera? (on the off-chance that whatever damage is inside will be
 obvious and simple to repair!)

 This would all be so much easier if my wife didn't know that I've
 lusted after the K10D since it was released.  I'm afraid she'll think
 that this is me just working a scam to have a reason to upgrade!

 Or, am I best off (financially) just going to KEH and buying a gently-
 used DS body for $200-300?

  -Charles

 --
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 Minneapolis, MN
 http://charles.robinsontwins.org



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Re: More problems my funky DS - advice, please

2007-09-08 Thread Paul Stenquist

Send it in for service. Most electronic problems require board  
replacement for resolution. You can't fix it yourself.
Or buy the K10D. Then send it in for service. And don't drop either  
one. A neck strap worn religiously will ensure against that. No, it's  
not cool. But you won't drop your camera.
Paul
On Sep 8, 2007, at 11:44 AM, Charles Robinson wrote:

 Well, the problem I had a couple months ago with the SD card door
 being sticky... turns out to have only been the tip of the iceberg.

 The door problem was resolved by removing the hinge pin and
 straightening it - as something had bent it (ouch - a tough drop
 somewhere along the way).

 Now I've noticed another problem and it is probably related.  The
 camera will shut itself off randomly/unpredictably.

 After playing with it for a while, I realized that if I held it in my
 left hand, with the SD card-door-side of the camera pointing straight
 up, it will stay on.

 Then I can take my right index finger and poke a few different spots
 along the rubber grip on the right-hand side of the camera, and it
 will shut off.  It turns right back on again (usually) when the
 pressure is released.

 SO - clearly whatever damaged the hinge pin for the SD door has also
 broken some sort of circuit inside the camera under the grip.  The
 question I have (or the advice I'm looking for) is whether or not
 it's worth the trouble/cost to get it fixed.  Or, has anyone dived
 inside their DS when they had nothing left to lose, and found that
 it's not that difficult a task to disassemble that side of the
 camera? (on the off-chance that whatever damage is inside will be
 obvious and simple to repair!)

 This would all be so much easier if my wife didn't know that I've
 lusted after the K10D since it was released.  I'm afraid she'll think
 that this is me just working a scam to have a reason to upgrade!

 Or, am I best off (financially) just going to KEH and buying a gently-
 used DS body for $200-300?

   -Charles

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 http://charles.robinsontwins.org



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Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-14 Thread Chris Stoddart


I'd just like to say thanks to all the people who have offered ideas and 
suggestions as to why my HIE was fogged. My plan now is it try and 
eliminate at least some of the factors. Firstly I have bought a 
stainless steel tank, which should rule out the Patterson. Secondly I 
intend to do all handling of the film at night in greatly reduced light, 
(probably under safelight), even though I am using a changing bag. 
Finally I intend to move the film from fridge-camera-tank  develop in 
the shortest possible time. If that fails... well it's back to you lot 
innit :-)

Cheers,

Chris

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-13 Thread Mark Cassino

Perhaps the film was not stored properly - if HEI gets hot (even very warm) 
it can fog up pretty quickly.


I've shot lots of HEI in an ME-Super, changed it in a changing bag (outdoors 
even - though in the shade) and use an Omega tank, which is pretty similar 
to the Pattersons - and I've never had a problem with fogging.


- MCC
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- Original Message - 
From: Chris Stoddart [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: Kodak HIE advice please?




Guys,

A colleague and I have both independently shot a roll of Kodak HIE film
and both suffered fogging. We're trying to track down the cause and I was
hoping there might be some collective experience on the list? We actually
shot the rolls about a year apart, but apart from that everything we did
was remarkably similar.

1. We both were slavishly careful in handling the film, loading and
unloading in a changing bag, keeping the film in its plastic tub when
outside the camera.
2. We both used a Patterson plastic developing tank.
3. We both developed with ID-11 stock as per instructions for D76.
4. Both used Pentax cameras :-) (him ME-Super, me Program A)

The film appears to be evenly fogged in that the rebate/sprockets are also
grey through the entire length of the film. You can just make out a faint
image in some of the frames. All we can think of is that the film fogged
in the plastic tank (both of us developed in daylight). The film before
that one through my tank was a 120 roll of SFX-200 and that was fine with
no fogging at all and my colleague has successfully developed more than
one roll of Konica infra-red in his tank.

Can anyone suggest anything else we could have done wrong?

Chris

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-13 Thread Rob Studdert

On 13 Jul 2005 at 9:19, Mark Cassino wrote:

 Perhaps the film was not stored properly - if HEI gets hot (even very warm) it
 can fog up pretty quickly.
 
 I've shot lots of HEI in an ME-Super, changed it in a changing bag (outdoors
 even - though in the shade) and use an Omega tank, which is pretty similar to
 the Pattersons - and I've never had a problem with fogging.

HIE doesn't last long in storage even in a refrigerated environment, it's quite 
rapidly fogged by cosmic rays apparently.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998

Re: Piked up roll:Was Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-12 Thread brooksdj

Hi Dave.

I find this film, as WW mentioned, very fussy. Only a few of the 36 had this 
faint line.
Probably would 
be able to PS it out anyway.

However, they ones that i had hoped would turn out in an errie sort of way did. 
I didi not
get the 
standard black sky with these shots as there was a mixture of sun shadow and 
mist. It does
make for 
some rather nice effects from the bridge taken in the middle of it, looking 
down the
valleys and with 
some dead trees and rock formations.

Got a neat on of the serpintine road.

Scans to follow

Dave

 That's a shame Dave.
 
 The one and only time I've used IR film, was with my Z-20. It has a DX
 window as well  I left it uncovered. I loaded  unloaded the film in
 a darkroom, (An actual darkroom not just a darkened room g) 
 processed it in the darkroom with just the safe lights on. I had no
 fogging problems at all.
 
 Probably just dumb luck. If I knew then what I know now I probably
 would have been more careful. :-)
 
 Dave
 
 On 7/12/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  
   I'll pick up my GFM roll right now. The cannister had the grey lid as i 
   lost the
  original,
  
   but i overed it in foil.
  
   Lets see if they are ok or fogged. I'll report ;later
  
   Dave
  
 
  Hum. Seems a s if 1-2 frames has a line in the picture as if someone put a 
  piece of
paper
  over the
  frame.Picture is exposed properly but this line is there. Could be 
  clasified as
  fog,but..
  
  Anyway, maybe i didi not get the foil on the grey lid fast enough.
  
  Bottom line. 1 or 2 or even 3 turned out very well. All were shot at 
  the swinging
  bridge on
  Saturday in some triky light. Mist and some clouds caused moi to sit for 
  quite some
time

  for a few
  photos. Many thought i was nuts for doing so,but most here know that 
  anyway, right.LOL
  
  Scans to follow
  
  DAVE

Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread Chris Stoddart


Guys,

A colleague and I have both independently shot a roll of Kodak HIE film 
and both suffered fogging. We're trying to track down the cause and I was 
hoping there might be some collective experience on the list? We actually 
shot the rolls about a year apart, but apart from that everything we did 
was remarkably similar.

1. We both were slavishly careful in handling the film, loading and 
unloading in a changing bag, keeping the film in its plastic tub when 
outside the camera. 
2. We both used a Patterson plastic developing tank.
3. We both developed with ID-11 stock as per instructions for D76.
4. Both used Pentax cameras :-) (him ME-Super, me Program A)

The film appears to be evenly fogged in that the rebate/sprockets are also 
grey through the entire length of the film. You can just make out a faint 
image in some of the frames. All we can think of is that the film fogged 
in the plastic tank (both of us developed in daylight). The film before 
that one through my tank was a 120 roll of SFX-200 and that was fine with 
no fogging at all and my colleague has successfully developed more than 
one roll of Konica infra-red in his tank. 

Can anyone suggest anything else we could have done wrong?

Chris

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: Chris Stoddart

Subject: Kodak HIE advice please?

Can anyone suggest anything else we could have done wrong?

The Patterson tanks are likely leaking infrared light.
Other things though:
Dark bags don't offer much protection, and the canisters themselves are 
prone to light leakage (the felt lips don't offer IR protection).
Neither camera has a DX window, and both have metal backs, so you can pretty 
much rule out the backs leaking.
I would load and unload the camera in the darkroom, and try processing with 
the Patterson tank in a darkened room (even under safelight should be OK) or 
else use a steel tank with a steel lid.

IR film can be pretty finicky

William Robb

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread mike wilson

You might find answers in these sites.  The first is huge.

mike


http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mainpage.htm
http://www.cocam.net/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM

 
 From: Chris Stoddart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: 2005/07/11 Mon PM 01:41:57 GMT
 To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
 Subject: Kodak HIE advice please?
 
 
 Guys,
 
 A colleague and I have both independently shot a roll of Kodak HIE film 
 and both suffered fogging. We're trying to track down the cause and I was 
 hoping there might be some collective experience on the list? We actually 
 shot the rolls about a year apart, but apart from that everything we did 
 was remarkably similar.
 
 1. We both were slavishly careful in handling the film, loading and 
 unloading in a changing bag, keeping the film in its plastic tub when 
 outside the camera. 
 2. We both used a Patterson plastic developing tank.
 3. We both developed with ID-11 stock as per instructions for D76.
 4. Both used Pentax cameras :-) (him ME-Super, me Program A)
 
 The film appears to be evenly fogged in that the rebate/sprockets are also 
 grey through the entire length of the film. You can just make out a faint 
 image in some of the frames. All we can think of is that the film fogged 
 in the plastic tank (both of us developed in daylight). The film before 
 that one through my tank was a 120 roll of SFX-200 and that was fine with 
 no fogging at all and my colleague has successfully developed more than 
 one roll of Konica infra-red in his tank. 
 
 Can anyone suggest anything else we could have done wrong?
 
 Chris
 
 


-
Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread Kevin Waterson

This one time, at band camp, Chris Stoddart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 1. We both were slavishly careful in handling the film, loading and 
 unloading in a changing bag, keeping the film in its plastic tub when 
 outside the camera.

Be sure the plastic Tub is Black and that the lid is black also

Kevin


-- 
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Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.

Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread Graywolf


I would guess that Patterson tank is the culprit. It is probably not opaque to 
infra-red.

graywolf
http://www.graywolfphoto.com
Idiot Proof == Expert Proof
---


Chris Stoddart wrote:


2. We both used a Patterson plastic developing tank.



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Re: Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread brooksdj

It sure can Bill.

My one and only home development of IR went hooribly wrong, although 1-2 were 
kinda
funky.LOL
The PZ-1 has the DX window, so i have al foil and electric tape over that. I 
oad and
unload in the 
bathroom(what serves as the darkroom) and seal the can with tape so as not to 
pop the lid
off.

Brother Aaron did my first roll and the lab around the corner from work now 
does it as its
a lot closer. I 
shot at 125 f 11 and mark that on the can. That work out to iso 200 i think. I 
can never
get that straight.
 
I'll pick up my GFM roll right now. The cannister had the grey lid as i lost 
the original,
but i overed it in foil.

Lets see if they are ok or fogged. I'll report ;later

Dave  

 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Chris Stoddart
 Subject: Kodak HIE advice please?
 
 
 
 
  Can anyone suggest anything else we could have done wrong?
 
 The Patterson tanks are likely leaking infrared light.
 Other things though:
 Dark bags don't offer much protection, and the canisters themselves are 
 prone to light leakage (the felt lips don't offer IR protection).
 Neither camera has a DX window, and both have metal backs, so you can pretty 
 much rule out the backs leaking.
 I would load and unload the camera in the darkroom, and try processing with 
 the Patterson tank in a darkened room (even under safelight should be OK) or 
 else use a steel tank with a steel lid.
 
 IR film can be pretty finicky
 
 William Robb

Piked up roll:Was Kodak HIE advice please?

2005-07-11 Thread brooksdj


  
 I'll pick up my GFM roll right now. The cannister had the grey lid as i lost 
 the
original,

 but i overed it in foil.
 
 Lets see if they are ok or fogged. I'll report ;later
 
 Dave  
 

Hum. Seems a s if 1-2 frames has a line in the picture as if someone put a 
piece of paper
over the
frame.Picture is exposed properly but this line is there. Could be clasified as
fog,but..

Anyway, maybe i didi not get the foil on the grey lid fast enough. 

Bottom line. 1 or 2 or even 3 turned out very well. All were shot at the 
swinging
bridge on
Saturday in some triky light. Mist and some clouds caused moi to sit for quite 
some time
for a few
photos. Many thought i was nuts for doing so,but most here know that anyway, 
right.LOL

Scans to follow

DAVE

LX TTL Multi-Flash advice please

2003-02-11 Thread Anton Browne

I am booked to do a female portrait session. I have had some success before using 
natural light and the Lastolite Triflector. This lady however requires the photos to 
be taken in the evening on return from the hairdresser... natural light is out (it's 
dark by 19:00 in the UK in February).

I have two AF400T's flashguns and a couple of AF280T's a distributor box and cables. I 
have just ordered two Lastolite Umbrella Boxes. My idea is to play it safe and bounce 
the two AF400T's into the Umbrella boxes so they reflect at 45 degrees to the subject 
and to fill in underneath and to the lower sides with the Triflector. I will maybe use 
one of the AF280Ts as a hair light. I'm hoping that the TTL flash on the LX will take 
care of the exposure and that I'll get shadowless flattering lighting (boring I know 
but I don't like doing a session with an unfamiliar set-up and I just want to get 
decent results, so no experimenting).

Any ideas/advice?

Anton

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your first 3 months, that's HALF PRICE! And then it's just £13.99 a month
after that.

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RE: Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).

2002-01-05 Thread Malcolm Smith


Hi Malcolm,

You might be able to get a new back (or perhaps bend your old one back into
shape), that is assuming of course that the latch in the LX body isn't
damaged?
I would have a very close look at the latch as it engages to try and
determine
the cause of the fault.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert


Thank you Rob,

I suspect it is the latch. I have compared it to my MXs, nowhere near such a
correct fit, I wonder if this has been caused by the extra weight of the
data back?

Malcolm
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Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).

2002-01-04 Thread Malcolm Smith


At least it's a great camera, but I was hoping to use the LX more. The back
of the LX (with data back) opened on its own three times with my third roll
of film in it - so not expecting much out of that roll. As I have never had
a problem like with any Pentax equipment, is this an expensive or cheap
repair? OR, do I resort to putting a rubber band around it when it has film
in it?

It has a couple of months warranty, but it means risking it to the post;
some of you know I regard this as a lottery and a last resort in case I get
scrap returned!

Thanks,

Malcolm
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Re: Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).

2002-01-04 Thread Rob Studdert


On 4 Jan 2002 at 19:02, Malcolm Smith wrote:

 At least it's a great camera, but I was hoping to use the LX more. The back of
 the LX (with data back) opened on its own three times with my third roll of film
 in it - so not expecting much out of that roll. As I have never had a problem
 like with any Pentax equipment, is this an expensive or cheap repair? OR, do I
 resort to putting a rubber band around it when it has film in it?
 
 It has a couple of months warranty, but it means risking it to the post;
 some of you know I regard this as a lottery and a last resort in case I get
 scrap returned!

Hi Malcolm,

You might be able to get a new back (or perhaps bend your old one back into 
shape), that is assuming of course that the latch in the LX body isn't damaged? 
I would have a very close look at the latch as it engages to try and determine 
the cause of the fault.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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OT: Modified Film Processing, advice please.

2001-03-11 Thread GLewis4457

Yesterday I was the pit crew photographer for a friends SCCA race car effort 
(Alfa Romeo GTV-6 FWIW) at Texas World Speedway. The day started out bright 
and I loaded some Fuji Neopan SS ISO 100 into my (required Pentax content) 
PZ-20 and snapped on the Sigma 28-200 lens. By the time we arrived at the 
track it was starting to cloud over and I would have liked to change over to 
Ilford HP-5 at ISO 400 (midrole change would be nice). Anyway, I finished 
the day with 1 role of the Neopan and 3 roles of the HP-5 exposed at rated 
ISO. Now to the question. The overcast day brought on some pretty flat 
lighting, with some occasional sunny times. Today I want to develop these 
rolls and I am thinking I would like to perk up the negs a bit. My first 
thought is to just develop them at a higher ISO. I only have Ilford 
Ilfosol-S available today. The Ilford data sheets tell me that I can get ISO 
800 on the HP-5 by increasing development time. I imagine the same is true 
of the Fuji but I don't have any tech details on the film yet, got it on sale 
and I usually don't use Fuji B/W. These are important pics for me and my 
friend and could result in a pic credit or two in the national Alfa magazine. 
Iwould also like to give my friend a nice enlargement for his allowing me 
into the pits with him. Advice on how to procede is welcome. Waiting and 
using another developer is an option.

Jerry in Houston

Re: OT: Modified Film Processing, advice please.

2001-03-11 Thread PAUL STENQUIST


I would develop the negs normal or with just a minimal push. I certainly
wouldn't push the film a full stop. I might add 10% development time or
so, but that's about it. If you need more contrast, you can accomplish
that with paper grade or filtration when printing. 

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Yesterday I was the pit crew photographer for a friends SCCA race car
 effort
 (Alfa Romeo GTV-6 FWIW) at Texas World Speedway.  The day started out
 bright
 and I loaded some Fuji Neopan SS ISO 100 into my (required Pentax
 content)
 PZ-20 and snapped on the Sigma 28-200 lens.  By the time we arrived at
 the
 track it was starting to cloud over and I would have liked to change
 over to
 Ilford HP-5 at ISO 400 (midrole change would be nice).  Anyway, I
 finished
 the day with 1 role of the Neopan and 3 roles of the HP-5 exposed at
 rated
 ISO.  Now to the question.  The overcast day brought on some pretty
 flat
 lighting, with some occasional sunny times.  Today I want to develop
 these
 rolls and I am thinking I would like to  perk up the negs a bit.  My
 first
 thought is to just develop them at a higher ISO.  I only have Ilford
 Ilfosol-S available today.  The Ilford data sheets tell me that I can
 get ISO
 800 on the HP-5 by increasing development time.  I imagine the same is
 true
 of the Fuji but I don't have any tech details on the film yet, got it
 on sale
 and I usually don't use Fuji B/W.  These are important pics for me and
 my
 friend and could result in a pic credit or two in the national Alfa
 magazine.
  Iwould also like to give my friend a nice enlargement for his
 allowing me
 into the pits with him.  Advice on how to procede is welcome.  Waiting
 and
 using another developer is an option.
 
 Jerry in Houston
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Lens advice please

2001-03-06 Thread Conrad Samuels


Hello all

Some advice from you knowledgeable people please.

Sunday morning I want to take a few shots of the Cape Argus Cycle Tour which
goes right around the Peninsula and happily right past my house.  But I know
that the leaders race past at breakneck speed just about sunrise when the
light is poor.  It is not a good idea in my opinion to use flash so I want
to use the available light with 200 ISO colour film (which I tend to use
most of the time anyhow).

I have the following lenses I could use:   Super-Tak 55/1.8,  SMC-Tak
55.1.8,  Pentax-A  50/2 and Pentax-A 50/1.7.  I know there is not much
difference between them speed wise but which one will be the best performer
at about f2?

Alternatively I could use the 50/1.4 Nikkor on my F3 but I would like to use
the Spotmatic if at all possible just for old-times sake so I am hoping the
vote will be for one of the two M42 lenses.

Conrad F.  Samuels
Kirstenhof SA


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