Okay so my coffee hasn't worked this morning, I'm blaming the covid. I need
to stress a point that I made in my head and not in my first response. The
downtube where it connects to the headtube is the most stressed, critical
part of a bike frame, do not drill a hole there. IF YOU REALLY HAVE
*cable guide not *chain guide*.
Always proof read folks!
On Thursday, 19 May 2022 at 08:59:03 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:
> There is already a hole in the BB where the chain guide attaches for
> drainage. I would work out a way to use that and, like you said, drill the
> hole in the seat post at
There is already a hole in the BB where the chain guide attaches for
drainage. I would work out a way to use that and, like you said, drill the
hole in the seat post at the top. Leave the frame unmolested for future
owners/corrosion reasons.
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Eric, thanks for posting this. I'm not sure I'd be able to comment without
veering political, but I do find it interesting and educational.
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Another related story I heard on radio today
https://www.marketplace.org/shows/marketplace/09252018
If only the way the global economy works was so straightforward..
On Monday, 24 September 2018 16:33:58 UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Story from today’s All Things Considered on NPR about
Not disputing the buying power that international trade often affords us,
but Busch & Muller products are made in Germany, so they're not really
impacted by the tariffs referenced in the segment above.
While I have no doubt that at least some of the components that go into
their lights are
Think outside da box:
bike24 in Germany has great prices on lights +20$ ships to USA.
B IQX 100lux dyno light is $63 +$20 shipping to me in USA is still $80
cheaper than buying in USA. And I have found them to ship fast and to be
reputable.
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Another casualty among so so many these past 18 months. I have good
industry pals who worked very hard to make that company what it is. Or
maybe now, was.
We are the walking / cycling wounded. A good long hard fast ride helps
control the angst, however.
So that is what we do.
BEST / Jock
Add a Light Motion Urban 700 for your helmet. Having lights high and low
off road is very helpful.
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I also think BM Cyo lights will do nicely. These are designed for fork
crown mounting and probably should stay in that area. Pair this with a
helmet light and you should see well.
Jon
Watertown, MA
On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 3:40:55 PM UTC-5, Anne Paulson wrote:
My new bike is going to
For off-road (and on-road), it's really hard to beat the combination of a
stem and helmet mounted setup. The specific problem with off-road is that
periodically, your bicycle may not be pointed in the direction you need to
see. I've found that balancing the power is most helpful. Depending
I think you're right, Jim. Probably a dyno-hub road light plus a
helmet-mounted broad light is the answer.
Just using a road light and nothing else off-road has one nasty
pitfall. Road lights have a height cutoff so as not to blind oncoming
vehicles. That's fine, because roads don't have tree
My concern with a dyno hub system off-road would be that at very low speeds
(stopping to jump over a log, climbing a steep stretch of trail, etc.), the
light will either go out or become very dim. At low speeds/stops, modern LED
lights have a standlight that stays on, but it's much dimmer than
+1 on the 'fiend
On Wednesday, February 26, 2014 1:21:12 PM UTC-8, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
For off-road (and on-road), it's really hard to beat the combination of a
stem and helmet mounted setup. The specific problem with off-road is that
periodically, your bicycle may not be pointed in the
that's why the helmet light is essential for the hike-a-bike and other
direction look times.
A lot of 24 hr MTB racers use the Supernova lights. Not as focused as the
Son lights but better for off-road trals where you don't have on-coming
cars and such..
~mike
On Wednesday, February
Mike I read through all the posts to see if anyone mentioned the Supernova
and of course you did. That's the light I'm going with. Incidentally, when
used to MTB at night I'd run three lights two on the handle bars and a
helmet mounted one...it's the way to go.
~Hugh
On Wednesday, February
I think there are several good lights available. And good lights are
expensive. I've been very happy with a Cygolite that I got on closeout.
I'll add my concurrence with the recommendation to use a helmet light in
addition to a stem mounted light.
I've seen lots of cool things riding around
I have the MiNewt 600. I tried a Cateye then the Princeton EOS but neither
were bright enough. Oddly, since I ride in semi lit areas, the dimmer
lights did nothing and I needed a brighter light to see where I'm going.
It's the contrast of bright soccer field lights but I'm on the path that's
Leslie: different people have different eyes with different needs -- I for
example have very bad night vision, explained by an ophthalmologist as the
result of small pupils -- but many have claimed that very bright but
unfocused lights can actually be counterproductive. I mentioned before my
-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: lights
I have the MiNewt 600. I tried a Cateye then the Princeton EOS but neither
were bright enough. Oddly, since I ride in semi lit areas, the dimmer lights
did nothing and I needed a brighter light to see where I'm going. It's the
contrast
RUSA requires adequate reflective wear on rando rides, and it's better to
be seen and not hit than the reverse. No propeller beanies yet though. Sam
Allen belts look cool, but vests are more visible. The cheapie DOT spec
ones work fine on a budget.
Here's one under $10 and there are many
The cover of the current issue of American Randonneur has some typical
reflective gear shown on some cyclists.
On Wed, Oct 10, 2012 at 6:02 AM, Bruce Herbitter
bruce.herbit...@gmail.comwrote:
RUSA requires adequate reflective wear on rando rides..
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Kelly
In the 9 miles I've ridden it so far it's very nice! I have the PD-8 so no
clutch on mine. I have no previous experience with any other dyno hub to
compare it to, but I was really surprised taking it out of the box how small
and light it was. Its barely larger than the XT hub that was on
Battery versus generator - I hate to worry about charging or replacing
batteries, so i choose to use dynohub generators. If money is no object,
SON Dynohubs look and perform the best, period. However, on one of my
bikes that only gets occasional use, I have a Shimano Alfine dynohub and it
Good point: I always have backup front and rear, a cheap LED 3 AAA lamp in
front (eg, Planet Bike Blaze) and two LEDs in the rear one run steady, the
other in blinkie. I generally turn my battery headlight on only at
intersections because the standlights on the Cyo or Edeluxe dim quickly. I
turn
Reflective sidewalls on my Marathon Supremes, velcro ankle reflector to
keep my pants out of the chain, red reflector tape on the rear fender and
white tape on the front head tube. My rain jacket, helmet and Carradice bag
have a bit of reflective material on them also and last but not least
It's hard to beat a dynamo for reliability or convenience, but a full dyno
set up is still a bit of an investment if you won't be using it regularly.
However, you mention touring so it could be that even if you do most of
your riding in daylight, not having to worry about batteries while you
I do ride alot at night but not for hours at a time and have found my
MiNewt 250 light with Gino mount to be a great fit. Even on the lowest
setting it is bright enough to light up a dark bike path and will run for
about 3 hours. Now take into consideration I am in NYC where it is rarely
ever
I'm going to throw in a vote for Cygo lights for convenience - Expilion and
Hot Shot combo. They're inexpensive, lightweight, and go for hours and
hours before needing a charge. They plug into any USB, and a spare battery
for the headlight is cheap enough if you want to carry a charged spare.
Don,
I would be of the camp that yells loudly for Dyno Hubs. The cost of the
lights and hub has gone down to fairly reasonable cost. Great hubs can be
had for 130 bucks, with headlights ranging from 50 to 150 covering a wide
range of needs.
In addition to always having light when needed,
I'll reiterate again that, if you don't plan to ride in the rain a lot, a
bottle dynamo is not a bad choice. I personally would have chosen a bb
dynamo or even one of these:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dymotec.asp
Even old Soubitezes are not bad. And bb dynamos if you can find them (I had
an
I've been road testing a slightly different solution--the BikeCharge
combination dynamo/light/USB charger. My initial results are online here:
http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com/2012/08/quick-bikecharge-impressions.html
I originally bought the BikeCharge to get the USB charging option, but I've
Whoops, I should make it clear that I'm not trying to contradict Kelly and
only wish to say that, IME, bottles and bb dynamos are a very nice and
relatively inexpensive option.
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:49 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
I'll reiterate again that, if you don't plan
I'll toss this one in, too:
http://www.magniclight.com/magniclight/index.php/en/startseite/8-magnic-light-homepage-english
The claim that it puts out more light than any existing dynamo system is
probably bogus, but the claim that (eventually) it will retrofit to your
existing headlight is
Dawn touring would be pretty hardcore. Dusk touring, I understand, but is
something to avoid, unless setting up camp in the dark is your aim (easier
to hide)! Of course, your doing the BB thing, a bit of dusk riding doesn't
hurt, except you are much harder to see by other vehicles. Normally
Dawn touring would be pretty hardcore. Dusk touring, I understand, but is
something to avoid, unless setting up camp in the dark is your aim (easier
to hide!). Of course, if you're doing the BB thing, a bit of dusk riding
doesn't hurt, except you are much harder to see by other vehicles.
It's not hardcore to have a flat or mechanical and be riding in the dark.
During the last tour we road in total darkness two nights. Lets add the
nights that a bar or town is close enough to camp to go to for
entertainment. I see touring needing dyno's as much as randonneuring folks
and
Thanks to everybody for all of your responses. They have been tremendous. I
am so impressed with the wide range of knowledge and experience and for you
willingness to share that. Much food for thought. Just to clarify, I don't
plan to travel much in the dark. But sometimes in the early morning
Thanks for the replies thus far they are helpful. I am seriously lacking in
knowledge here so bear with me. If I convert to a hub dynamo then I will
need to purchase the hub and have it installed in my wheel (read)? And I
will need to purchase a light or lights (front and rear) to go with it?
Dawn touring makes tons of sense where it's very hot. Even non-hardcore
tourists quickly learn the benefit of avoiding 100 degree heat in the full
sun.
-- Anne
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:34 AM, IanA attew...@gmail.com wrote:
Dawn touring would be pretty hardcore.
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On Mon, 2012-10-08 at 09:16 -0700, Don wrote:
Thanks for the replies thus far they are helpful. I am seriously
lacking in knowledge here so bear with me. If I convert to a hub
dynamo then I will need to purchase the hub and have it installed in
my wheel (read)?
Yes you will need to have a
It also makes sense for morning people like me. I'm already awake, I love
sunrise, I love riding. Put them all together
-Ken
On Oct 8, 2012, at 4:43 PM, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
Dawn touring makes tons of sense where it's very hot. Even non-hardcore
tourists quickly
I've got the dynohub ending in 71 with the Cyo -- have used this combo on
several bikes -- and yes, it is a very good setup. Frankly, the only reason
I have something better on my commuter Riv (SON 20 and Edeluxe) is vanity.
On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 12:47 PM, IanA attew...@gmail.com wrote:
A LX
Sure - don't get me wrong, I've toured round the clock and have ridden in
the pitch black. I still would maintain that basic lighting is enough
unless you're making a habit of night riding. But, riding in the dark on
tour is not common. Riding at dawn does make a lot of sense especially
I use a Nite Rider minewt.600 on my Bleriot and I commute after dark.
Wireless, small, and a powerful 600 lumens. I would not use less than 600
lumens for riding at night.
It comes with a mount for the helmet, and also with a clip on mount for the
bars/stem.
Works fantastic for me.
Note that, beyond a certain surprisingly low minimum, it is less the gross
output of a light that makes it desirable for commuting than the shape of
the beam. I get much more usable illumination from a 2.4-3W LED in my Cyo
or Edeluxe than from the insanely more bright HID light I had some years
I bought my boys wheels with Shimano Alfine hubs last year. Harris sells
them. They are great. There's so little drag you can run lights full time.
Running lights during the day is worth it. You are very visible.
Around the holidays, Harris usually offers a good shipping promotion.
I got my rear 650b alfine wheel done by Harris and have bought wheels off
them in the past. They were great. I was looking at longleaf for a 650b
dyno front wheel maybe for xmas though.
http://www.longleafbicycles.com/products/dynohubs-and-lighting/dynohubs/shimano-dh-3n72-dh-3d72/
On Mon, Oct 8,
A generator front and rear light system is the best thing I have ever done
for my bicycle. It turned my ride into a useful vehicle rather than a fair
weather day rider. Lights on all the time is a good safety feature. I
notice auto drivers see me sooner especially when I'm in the shadows, even
I have a 3 mile commute on lit city streets and battery lights will easily
suffice. I used a PB Superflash rear and 2W Blaze in front for 2 years with no
ptoblem. Even though the beam pattern of the Blaze wasn't ideal, I loved that
it had a psycho flash mode for daytime riding.
Nonetheless I
Pete
How has the SP hub treated you. I just put one in service on my quickbeam and
love it so far.
Kelly
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I have the SP hub from VO with the clutch on my Surly..and a BM
Daylight Running light Fly headlamp and Toplight line tail lightit is
nice to just ride along and know I have a constant running tail light and
adequate head light. It even comes in handy in the daylight, at dusk and in
I use a Planet Bike mounted on that rack. One reasons I like it is
because it has one of the best reflectors of any blinky type light I
have found.
http://www.rei.com/product/776955/planet-bike-rack-blinky-5-rear-light.
On Mar 16, 11:11 pm, Anne Paulson anne.paul...@gmail.com wrote:
Probably
FWIW, I test-mounted two blinkies at the rear of my new Fargo rack
and, sho' 'nuff, one bounce off after fewer than 5 miles. The other
one remained -- so far.
On Sat, Mar 17, 2012 at 9:39 AM, judy richmond
richmondjudy...@gmail.com wrote:
I use a Planet Bike mounted on that rack. One reasons I
The rack mounted tail lights that Peter White sells would fit if the
spacing is either 50 or 80 mm. Tel Aviv has a bike sharing program and
those are the lights mounted to their racks. Seem to work pretty good.
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/bm.asp
Scroll down the page to, you guessed it, rack
Planet bike makes a bracket to mount on racks. Put a bolt through one of
the middle holes, and tighten it down with a nylock nut and washer on the
inside of the rack. It's this part - http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3108.html
Pretty sure most lights from Planet bike come with that bracket.
So the Nitto racks have 1 hole, not ?
Wierd.
I this the page I linked has an adaptor for that too.
Jay
On Mar 17, 2:41 pm, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
Planet bike makes a bracket to mount on racks. Put a bolt through one of
the middle holes, and tighten it down with a nylock nut and washer
Hi Anne,
I have the Nitto Big front rack with a flat plate as you describe. I use
the plate to mount a reflector -- I don't like having a light that far
forward.
My headlight is a Planet Bike Blaze 2W, designed to clamp on a handlebar.
To mount my light on the rack, I use a Velo Orange
Hmm I prefer the Gino Mount to the nitto one, it is a little fatter and
mounts through the mount rather than from the back like the nitto version.
Got mine on Amazon for 15 bucks. The front part of my rack is occupied by
the platrack.
On Mar 17, 2012 11:38 AM, Lisa ukulele.l...@mac.com wrote:
A warning: I've had two rear blinkies mounted on one of those adaptors
fling themselves off the mount, hit the ground and explode after the
rear tire hit admittedly egregiously large (6 wide, 3 deep)
expansion cracks at 15+ mph. It seems that the moment or leverage of
the very rearward location
I got my planet bike bracket for my rear blinked from amazon. Its been
solid for me...and I've been pounding the crap out of it on my daily
commute.
Jim in Boulder
On Saturday, March 17, 2012 6:41:16 AM UTC-6, EricP wrote:
Planet bike makes a bracket to mount on racks. Put a bolt through
I just purchased an origin 8 light mount for my Nitto M-12 and it was the
wrong size. I had to drill a larger hole in it and add threads.
http://www.origin-8.com/?page_id=91short_code=Eyelet+Stub+Light+Mountcl1=LIGHTS+%26+REFLECTORS
I just used the handlebar mount that came with my Princeton
Anne,
Not that complicated if you talked to Peter White he'd make sure you get
the correct combination, but pretty much any light now will have some kind
of fork-crown mount either with it or for a few bucks more. Any of the
fork-crown mounts will work with the nitto on the front.
Anne
I've not read all the replies so you might have gotten the answer you
wanted. But here's my IQ Cyo mounted on my Nitto Mini--purchased from
Rivendell. Not sure what you meant when you said except for IQ Cyo so here
goes: http://www.flickr.com/photos/cwmcmillen/6867520015/in/photostream
Interesting... it also seems that Philips has a simlar, slightly brighter
battery light which looks to compete with the Ixon IQ (i.e. 4AA
rechargeables, in-situ charging). One distinguishing charactersitic is that
it uses a USB interface for charging (i.e. it comes with a wall-wart charger
but
In this connection, does anyone know:
1. If the Blackburn Flea can be charged with the wall-to-usb adaptor
used for the iPhone cable?
2. How long the Flea runs on one charge? -- I've seen 3 and 5 hours.
3. How long the Flea holds it charge when fully charged and left unused?
Thanks.
On Thu,
I think battery lighting is the right way to go if you're planning on switching
bikes periodically. My Ixon IQ is wonderful in Chicago winters and between
Paul's Gino mount and Peter White's mounting options you can put it lots of
places to accommodate lots of configurations.
That said,
I used the Cyo in moderate rain with no problem, haven't tried it in the
snow.
The skewer end mount setup makes the wheel, light and mount one piece,
easy to move from bike to bike, no wires to disconnect.
I used to used to setup a dedicated night bike for each winter, being able
to
swap the
On Sep 5, 1:52 pm, Liesl lchat...@smm.org wrote:
Curious about wiring set-ups that can move back and forth
within 5 minutes or less. Not thinking of dyno-run tailights. Am
thinking of LED's.
if you bounce back and forth between bikes a lot, I'd just get 2 IQ
flys and put one on each bike.
I warn that I am biased ... the dyno's have spoiled me and between the SON28
and the Edelux I have found bliss. I've had high powered battery lights
and no matter how great and bright they may be I had to remember to charge
them. To get the battery to do something.. like get them out of the
Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain? Does it take
on water? I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
Edelux...
I mounted the first Cyo on the forward tab of a Nitto M12 rack. This
placed the light directly in the spray of the tire. I kept thinking
I
On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 10:38 -0400, Khalid Mateen wrote:
Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a
touring bicycle? Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.
Sorry to high jack this post but it is question that I have been
asking myself.
Mitch Pryor likes that
I've thought of that and would say no unless your fender has a
second pair of struts supporting the forward end or unless it is
secured to the underside of a rack; and even in those cases, only with
metal fenders. I've seen very light, old lamps that an unsupported
metal fender might support long
I have my E3 mounted forward like that on my Hillborne. It can get a
bit dirty. Might switch things around in the future. Although the
Sam isn't often out in winter. However, mounting on the front of the
Nitto rack might be better for me.
For the Cyo, haven't found problems with the switch.
Aren't they liberating? I too was a holdout for years until I tried
the latest generation of German LED lights. Now I've got dynamos on
all my bikes except my gofast -- 1 SON 20R + Edeluxe, Riv, 1 DH3N72
(actually two of these for the two wheelsets, fat and very fat) + Cyo
for the Fargo, 1 BB
Eric: will you share with us your rear light wiring strategy? Thanks.
On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 10:23 AM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
I have my E3 mounted forward like that on my Hillborne. It can get a
bit dirty. Might switch things around in the future. Although the
Sam isn't often out in
On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On Wed, 2011-09-07 at 10:38 -0400, Khalid Mateen wrote:
Do you think it is safe to mount a Edelux on a front fender for a
touring bicycle? Assuming that is a metal fender and not plastic.
Sorry to high jack this post but
Patrick,
On the bike with the rear wired tail light, just ran the wire across
the rack held down with zip ties, then a few wraps around one of the
rack stays, along the top tube (again held with zip ties), to the
brake cable housing, then down parallel to the bike computer wire to
the light. At
Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno
powered tail lamps and any wiring info is useful.
'Nother question: can you use the E3 tail light with, say an Edeluxe or Cyo?
On Wed, Sep 7, 2011 at 6:43 PM, EricP ericpl...@aol.com wrote:
Patrick,
On the bike with the rear
@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:57 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?
Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno powered
tail lamps and any wiring info is useful.
'Nother
I currently use a Philips LED SafeRide Synamo light I got from Bike24.com
http://www.bike24.net/p219881.html
I have a review and comparison of it between an IQ CYO-RT on the candlepower
forums.
@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of PATRICK MOORE
Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 8:57 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Lights for a Schmidt SON28?
Thanks, Eric. I'm thinking of converting at least two bikes to dyno powered
tail
The E3 is not designed like a low beam. Just a round, bright light.
I would think that even on a handlebar, the light should not be overly
bothersome to other folks on a trail. It's not nearly as bright as
some 600 lumen lights out there. (There is a local commuter who uses
that on the road and
Liesl,
Are you going to swap the dyno wheel between bikes as well? If so i
think Scott G's arrangement is the easiest to move back and forth,
other-wise you'll need to have disconnects at both ends for the wiring
on each bike.
I've got a number of the mounts mentioned here, the VO QR end mount,
Are you going to swap the dyno wheel between bikes as well? If so i
think Scott G's arrangement is the easiest to move back and forth,
other-wise you'll need to have disconnects at both ends for the wiring
on each bike.
Yes, my hope is that both the dyno wheel and the light will be going
Lot's a good, pratical user experience in this thread!
Regarding Cyo, how does it hold up under bucketing rain? Does it take
on water? I've read some concerns about it not being as tight as the
Edelux...
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You need to use the anti-corrosion grease made for electrical
connections available at your friendly NAPA auto parts store. This
will cut down on the problem significantly when you get a new
connection piece. Is there enough of the old connection to lead solder
a new tab that you can hand
I would set up one bike for the generator lighting for now and not
touch it. Get another light system for the other bike or use it in
warmer weather. When you start connecting and disconnecting routinely
you are asking for problems IMHO.
On Sep 6, 8:08 pm, Liesl li...@smm.org wrote:
Are you
Hello,
I have to agree re: the IQ CYO. I used the N plus variant for two very
cold, very dark Northern Wyoming winters. The N plus put a lot of
light on the road. As far as quick release. Velo-orange sells a mount
that replaces the nut on your hub quick release. So the light would
move with the
Here is a Cyo using a BM handle bar mount and the Velo Orange skewer mount
gadget.
A little low but used it this way for a few months.
http://www.wooljersey.com/gallery/v/sg8357/Scott-Goldsmith/Chris-Kvale-2005/Cyo1.jpg.html
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Congratulations!!!
If you can afford it, get the Edelux. Here's a photo of mine on the Atlantis
under the Nitto Mini/Platrack using the bracket sold by Rene Herse
http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-341/Light-Bracket-for-Edelux/Detail
.
*http://tinyurl.com/3oqgkqx*
The light is great, the
X2 on Edelux .. We have them on three of the bikes and love them.
Kelly
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I have the E3 on my Sam Hillborne. A good wide light. Bright but
with lots of spill to the sides and up. One advantage, it is
available in a quick release handlebar mount. A co-worker has that on
one of her Rivendell bikes and has excellent results in winter.
Also have the Cyo on another
Regarding the Edelux, Cyo R, and others, are these lights so bright
that runners, bikers and other commuter path users will hate me?! I
like the brightness on a gravel road, but in the city, I don't want to
annoy folks.
Thanks,
Ginz
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I've read that Shimano dynohubs are too tight and too dry when new and
that proactive adjustment and lubing makes them live much longer. Was
the early death due to the winter or the initial bearing problem?
Dunno myself, that's just what I read in BQ; I have the shop repack
and adjust all new
That's one of their benefits: the lights are designed to shine like
auto low beams: bright for illumination but not for oncomers' eyes.
On Mon, Sep 5, 2011 at 8:27 PM, Ginz theg...@gmail.com wrote:
Regarding the Edelux, Cyo R, and others, are these lights so bright
that runners, bikers and
It's a 2003 custom road bike built for 559 or 571 wheels (currently
559X31). It handles fine with less than 10 lb in front (it will carry
25 easily in the back). The front rack is a VO Randonneur rack, the
rear a custom. The light strut needs some polishing and smoothing --
it's hard aluminum! The
And no wobbling: I had a VO ss strut that wobbled considerably, which
is why I took a shot at my own.
On Fri, Sep 2, 2011 at 7:55 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
It's a 2003 custom road bike built for 559 or 571 wheels (currently
559X31). It handles fine with less than 10 lb in
Patrick, I included the Cyo official mount for the fork crown
and the VO mount that fits on the rack eyelet.
Whilst on light mountology, anyone mount a Supernova E3
to Nitto m12 ?, did you the multimount or some other widget.
Scott
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Hi!
Do you know of a good place on the web to order smallish quantities of the kind
of aluminum stock you used for your light?
Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean
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