Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Craigslist, etc 2024

[Greg J]

Complete 59cm Rambouillet for $1000 - it seems like an amazing deal!  No 
connection to seller.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-59cm-rambouillet-blue/7743799428.html





On Tuesday, April 30, 2024 at 6:18:39 PM UTC-7 Valerie Yates wrote:

>
> 51 Atlantis for $2k. Well-loved by owner who passed away. Being sold by 
> the surviving spouse. No connection to seller. 
>
> https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-rivendell-atlantis-51cm/7742464449.html
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 30, 2024 at 1:43:03 PM UTC-6 kiziria...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Nicely 52cm Clem for $1800 in Los Angeles 
>> https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/north-hills-rivendell-clem-smith-jr/7742374638.html
>>  
>>
>> On Monday, April 29, 2024 at 2:59:02 PM UTC-7 drew.jo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> https://crustbikes.com/a/shopicial/topics/196896
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Apr 28, 2024, at 8:38 PM, Kim H.  wrote:
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Rivendell Clem Smith Clementine - $2,150 (Sacramento) 
>>>
>>> https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/d/sacramento-rivendell-clem-smith/7735990306.html
>>>
>>> Kim Hetzel.
>>> On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 6:22:31 PM UTC-7 jamin orrall wrote:
>>>
 Awesome color  Saluki and a good price!  I believe this is or was 
 John's bike (rivendell employee). This would explain the very history 
 heavy 
 description.  

 On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 11:01:54 AM UTC-7 Matti wrote:

> Saluki here: 
> https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/d/portland-62cm-rivendell-saluki/7741642940.html
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 10:20:00 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:
>
>> Time for a new FS thread?
>>
>> I saw this 63 Roadeo on the Crust classifieds and thought a tall 
>> member here might be interested: 
>> https://crustbikes.com/a/shopicial/topics/179734
>>
>> Good price at $1,500 for the frameset but the seller indicates it has 
>> been repainted by D Cycles.
>>
>> [image: roadeo.jpeg]
>>
>> No connection to the seller.
>>
>> Max
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Roadini 50cm

[Greg J]

price?

On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 1:15:47 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> How was the ride? Looks like it has lots of elevation. How did you like 
> the Roadini?
> Doug
>
> On Tuesday, March 12, 2024 at 1:40:04 PM UTC-4 cramer@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Impulse buy,  built it up last year to ride the Triple Bypass.  Maybe 250 
>> miles on it. No dents, but a  small chip on the chainstay. 
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

[Greg J]

Thanks, both, for the very clear explanations!  I will have to go see how 
badly mine have gotten --- but that said, my 2 bikes brake great with 986 
and 987 brakes with Kool-Stop salmon shoes.

Greg / Oakland

On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 11:53:33 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Dia Compe 986 and the Ritchey Logic variant of them would 
> bend/squish/deform four different ways in my ham-handed hands.  
>
> Facing the brake, the stack of parts was:
>
> 1. Allen Nut.  It takes a 6mm allen wrench.  It's threaded internally 
> M6x1.0mm and threads onto the eye bolt
> 2. flat steel washer
> 3. Aluminum concave spacer wraps around a convex surface on brake arm
> 4. Brake arm.  Presents a convex surface up front and a concave surface in 
> back
> 5. Aluminum convex spacer nestles into the concave backside of the brake 
> arm
> 6. Eye bolt that grabs the brake pad post.  Has 10mm flats built into it 
> so you can hold it in place with a 10mm wrench
>
> Because of 1 and 6, you'd use a 6mm allen key and a 10mm wrench, which 
> practically begs you to over tighten it.  Everything that takes a 6mm allen 
> normally ought to be good and tight.  On almost all other brakes, the 
> eyebolt has no flats, so you hold the brake pad steady with your fingers as 
> you tighten the bolt.  It's harder to overtighten something with that 
> technique.  
>
> When you over tighten a 986 (or Logic), the four ways to cause damage are:
>
> A. The "smooth post" pads weren't smooth.  They were serrated.  Those 
> serrations bite deep into part #5, making future rotation adjustments hard. 
> B. Part #5 itself would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
> adjustment slot
> C. Part #3 would squish, ovalize, imprint itself into the height 
> adjustment slot
> D. The post itself would bend
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Monday, March 11, 2024 at 10:46:15 AM UTC-7 Greg J wrote:
>
>> Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 
>> deforming or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis. 
>>  What should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
>> deforming?
>>
>> Thanks, 
>> Greg / Oakland
>>
>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:
>>
>>> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
>>> mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
>>> "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
>>> advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
>>> Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that smooth 
>>> post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands of 
>>> the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read it 
>>> through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.
>>>
>>> I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind about 
>>> impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a Marukin 
>>> Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially challenging 
>>> because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They might have 
>>> worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my wedding gift to 
>>> each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had Waterford do a full 
>>> repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. Shimano CX-70 
>>> brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully confident 
>>> braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping in Vermont!
>>>
>>> I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, 
>>> probably because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing 
>>> the right bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is 
>>> changed about the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth 
>>> posts. On the contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that 
>>> part of the setup when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for 
>>> me. Different length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the adapter 
>>> I have in mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I 
>>> have a pretty good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the 
>>> weight gain, if there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  
>>>

[RBW] Re: Smooth Post Brake Pads

[Greg J]

Bill and Ted,  can you explain what you mean by the Dia Compe 986 deforming 
or squishing when overtightened?  These are my favorite cantis.  What 
should I be careful about over tightening, and what part is prone to 
deforming?

Thanks, 
Greg / Oakland

On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 8:18:38 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Sunday, March 10, 2024 at 9:11:20 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> ...Smooth post cantilevers, in my view, raise the ceiling for a good 
> mechanic.  I feel like the extra work required represents the mechanical 
> "envelope" to get things perfect.  On these forums (RBW, IBOB, 650B) I've 
> advised that the typical home-mechanic should probably not take on Rene 
> Herse Cantilevers, it's too heavy a lift.  The second reason is that smooth 
> post cantilevers give me more room to play with rim width.  In the hands of 
> the right mechanic, I think smooth post cantilevers are preferable. 
>
>
> Such a great, thoughtful response, Bill. I encourage everyone to read it 
> through, even though I've kept just a small part of it here.
>
> I had a laugh because Dia Compe 986 are exactly what I had in mind about 
> impossible to readjust brakes. 20 year old me had them on both a Marukin 
> Northstar and a Santana Elan. The Santana was especially challenging 
> because Santana placed the mounts way too close together. They might have 
> worked on a 5mm wide rim. The tandem was my wife's and my wedding gift to 
> each other, and around our 30th anniversary I had Waterford do a full 
> repaint and I replaced all the components with updated parts. Shimano CX-70 
> brakes were a revelation and for the first time I had fully confident 
> braking on the bike. Wished I had them on our honeymoon, camping in Vermont!
>
> I hadn't thought much about rim width in writing my initial post, probably 
> because I'd forgotten about the initial installation and choosing the right 
> bolt/spacer combo on the CX-50s. But I don't think my mind is changed about 
> the extent to which the Shimano CX system improves on smooth posts. On the 
> contrary, the fact that I didn't have to think about that part of the setup 
> when changing pads illustrates one of its advantages for me. Different 
> length bolts and spacers would be compatible with the adapter I have in 
> mind. Fortunately, having put 4 sets of CX brakes on bikes, I have a pretty 
> good supply of spacers and bolts :-). I don't think the weight gain, if 
> there is any, would be enough to change my mind.  
>
> One thing that the CX and Rene Herse brakes have in common, that makes 
> them such a pleasure (and so much easier) to work on, is the quality of the 
> hardware. 
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee, WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: Old vs New shifter cable stop standards

[Greg J]

Good work, Drew.  The Simplex-Mavic retrofriction shifters use the small 
diameter cable ends, which are the Campy- compatible cables.  But your 
solution is better!  No more stocking up on Campy cables!

Greg/Oakland

On Sunday, February 18, 2024 at 3:22:27 PM UTC-8 Drew Saunders wrote:

> I vaguely remember someone mentioning that some new shifter cables had 
> ends that were too large for some older shift levers. I forgot what the 
> consensus was, and didn't think too much, until I tried installing my left 
> only Mavic 821 downtube shifter to replace a silver bar-end for the front 
> (I'll still use the Silver for the rear), and discovered:
> [image: IMG_6748.jpg]
> Oops! I suppose I could buy a new cable and hope that one end has a 
> smaller diameter stop, or hunt for old shifter compatible cables, or figure 
> out what size drill bit would bore it out to work. Hint, it's 11/64":
> [image: IMG_6750.jpg]
> The last photo isn't too great, but the shift lever now works with all 
> cables, and only the tiniest bit of metal was removed. Of course, unless 
> the cable breaks, I may never remove it, so I'm set for a very long time.
> [image: IMG_6751.jpg]
> It does work pretty well, too. Since I can't do any rides this weekend 
> (work stuff), I'll test it out later and take it for a real ride.
>
> The reasoning? With my 26-42, 11-28 11-speed friction setup, I only use 
> the FD if I have a big hill to climb, so can go weeks without using it, and 
> my left leg swings out more than my right, so I have bumped the left 
> bar-end shifter with my knee a few times, so I decided to be a little 
> different and mix bar-end with downtube shifters. 
>
> 11/64" is 4.37mm, so I'm guessing the old standard was maybe 4mm or so, 
> and the new standard is 4.25mm? 
>
> Drew
>

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Re: [RBW] RoadeoRosa teaser

[Greg J]

Impressive.  It's taken me over 2 years to build up my Norther-L'avecaise, 
and I'm still not finished!

Greg / OAK

On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 12:21:28 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> The Roadeo may be done tonight.  I don't get the Falconer until Saturday.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 12:01:49 PM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> So which gets built first? Tough choice ahead!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Thursday, February 15, 2024, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> Two completely separate 6-month long projects each stretched out to 
>>> 2-year projects independently and for different reasons.  Each of those two 
>>> unrelated projects reach "New Frame Day" within hours of each other.  
>>> Correct.
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 9:42:08 AM UTC-8 Greg J wrote:
>>>
>>>> Can't wait!
>>>>
>>>> 2 new frames in the same week, Bill?
>>>>
>>>> Greg in Oakland
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 7:55:19 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Riv HQ closes at 3PM.  Rick from D dropped it off on his way home at 
>>>>> like 3:15 yesterday, after they closed up.  Mark put it in his work stand 
>>>>> and emailed me at 3:30 on his out.  There were no peek opportunities.  
>>>>> Riv 
>>>>> HQ opens at 9AM PST this morning.  I've got a work meeting at 8, which 
>>>>> I'm 
>>>>> taking from home. When that meeting is over I'm off to pick it up.  My 
>>>>> headset crown race setter is trash, so I'm going to have James or Antonio 
>>>>> set my crown race and press in my headset cups.  That way we can take a 
>>>>> couple of New Frame Day photos in front of the garage door, as is 
>>>>> tradition.  
>>>>>
>>>>> BL in EC
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 6:41:27 AM UTC-8 
>>>>> sarahlik...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Have you snuck over for even the littlest peek? I wouldn't be able to 
>>>>>> stop myself!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Am very much anticipating this pink bike reveal!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 14, 2024 at 7:50:24 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mark tells me my frame is sitting in his stand right now...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm going to pick it up Thursday morning, and I have to pick my 
>>>>>>> headbadge.  The Roadeo head badge comes in Red or in Blue.  The Roadeo 
>>>>>>> page 
>>>>>>> on the website shows them both.  I'm definitely going blue.  There are 
>>>>>>> a 
>>>>>>> few touches of blue that will show up elsewhere on the build, so that 
>>>>>>> will 
>>>>>>> tie in.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm pretty sure I have absolutely every piece of the build so it may 
>>>>>>> be New Bike Day less than 24 hours from now.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 5:44:17 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>>>>>>> Ding! wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I love it already. It’s the perfect pink. And we only have to wait 
>>>>>>>> until next week to see it!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 5:22:34 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Rick at D tells me he'll be delivering my Roadeo frame set to 
>>>>>>>>> Rivendell HQ next week sometime.  He gave me a sneak peek at my 
>>>>>>>>> color-matched Rene Herse/Honjo fenders.  Here they are:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53519732639/in/album-72177720313109003/
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> It's getting real
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>
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>>>
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[RBW] Re: RoadeoRosa teaser

[Greg J]

Can't wait!

2 new frames in the same week, Bill?

Greg in Oakland

On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 7:55:19 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Riv HQ closes at 3PM.  Rick from D dropped it off on his way home at 
> like 3:15 yesterday, after they closed up.  Mark put it in his work stand 
> and emailed me at 3:30 on his out.  There were no peek opportunities.  Riv 
> HQ opens at 9AM PST this morning.  I've got a work meeting at 8, which I'm 
> taking from home. When that meeting is over I'm off to pick it up.  My 
> headset crown race setter is trash, so I'm going to have James or Antonio 
> set my crown race and press in my headset cups.  That way we can take a 
> couple of New Frame Day photos in front of the garage door, as is 
> tradition.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Thursday, February 15, 2024 at 6:41:27 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Have you snuck over for even the littlest peek? I wouldn't be able to 
>> stop myself!
>>
>> Am very much anticipating this pink bike reveal!
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 14, 2024 at 7:50:24 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Mark tells me my frame is sitting in his stand right now...
>>>
>>> I'm going to pick it up Thursday morning, and I have to pick my 
>>> headbadge.  The Roadeo head badge comes in Red or in Blue.  The Roadeo page 
>>> on the website shows them both.  I'm definitely going blue.  There are a 
>>> few touches of blue that will show up elsewhere on the build, so that will 
>>> tie in.  
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure I have absolutely every piece of the build so it may be 
>>> New Bike Day less than 24 hours from now.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 5:44:17 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I love it already. It’s the perfect pink. And we only have to wait 
 until next week to see it!

 On Friday, February 9, 2024 at 5:22:34 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Rick at D tells me he'll be delivering my Roadeo frame set to 
> Rivendell HQ next week sometime.  He gave me a sneak peek at my 
> color-matched Rene Herse/Honjo fenders.  Here they are:
>
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/53519732639/in/album-72177720313109003/
>
> It's getting real
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>


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[RBW] Re: ISO: 53 Atlantis

[Greg J]

I am seriously thinking about selling my 53cm All Rounder (Waterford 
built), which is basically the precursor to the Atlantis.  Let me know if 
you’re interested.  And where you’re located. 

Greg

On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 7:00:01 PM UTC-8 Gideon Tsang wrote:

> Holler if you've got or know one. Xie xie

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ultegra 9spd long cage range

[Greg J]

I too have used it with a 11-32 and it worked fine. 

On Monday, December 18, 2023 at 4:16:04 PM UTC-8 Andy Beichler wrote:

> I am running an 11-32 cassette with a long cage and it indexes fine.
>
> On Monday, December 18, 2023 at 6:47:48 PM UTC-5 codyt...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have one with an 11-30 cassette and it works well.
>>
>> Cody, Chicago
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 18, 2023 at 5:42 PM dylan green  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Jeremy - I was definitely hoping an 11-32 would be OK.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 18, 2023 at 3:35 PM Jeremy Till  wrote:
>>>
 Generally, with Shimano road derailleurs the short and long cage 
 versions usually had about the same max cog specification, around 27 or 
 28t. The difference was that the longer cage one had enough capacity that 
 it could handle a triple in front. 

 The general consensus around here is that Shimano derailleur 
 capacity/max cog specifications are usually a little bit on the 
 conservative side, and many have successfully used them with larger rear 
 cogs than those for which they were specified. If it were mine, I'd be 
 tempted to see if it could shift something like an 11-32 cassette. 

 -Jeremy Till
 Sacramento, CA


 On Monday, December 18, 2023 at 3:14:12 PM UTC-8 dylantho...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> I have a 6500 series Ultegra RD with a long cage. Anyone know the 
> range of cassette I should be able to work with? I believe the short cage 
> can take 28, but I can't find the long cage max anywhere...any help is 
> appreciated!

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Re: [RBW] 1st world commuting dilemma

[Greg J]

Another suggestion for your consideration is to cover up the downtube 
"Atlantis" logo with color-matching tape. Of course, you may not wish to, 
but I think that would deter at least some thieves - they can't do 
real-time research by looking up what an Atlantis is worth.  I used to do 
this back in the day with my Ritchey MTB.

Greg  

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 1:23:27 PM UTC-8 Josh C wrote:

> That Ogre is ready to go, nice! I wouldn't consider commuting on the Hunq 
> either but I do ride it like anything else. 
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 2:10:16 PM UTC-5 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_3203.jpeg]I get more compliments on my Ogre than my Riv’s as 
>> well! I’ve got one like your Hunq but in green. I’d never take that 
>> commuting. Not so much for it getting stolen but folks not being gentle 
>> when they lock up their bikes. And honestly, getting it stolen. 
>> They salt the roads here as well. I’d never take my Riv’s after a storm. 
>>
>> I recently bought a fairly nice Trek FX for my daughter. Low-mid level 
>> Shimano components. Everything works well. Has fender and rack mounts. All 
>> for $50! It’s a nice riding bike. And probably something I’d consider if I 
>> needed a cheap, nice-riding commuter. Especially for the salty winter 
>> months. 
>>
>> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 11:09:56 AM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>>
>>>  Ginz - Thanks for the reply. I feel like riding it and using it for 
>>> its intended purpose is probably the right answer. I just feel like it may 
>>> be a bit of a target. IDK, it’s mostly us nerds that think Rivss are cool 
>>> and not beach cruisers anyway, right… Forgive me if I should know; do you 
>>> commute on a Rivendell Ginz? 
>>>
>>>
>>> Hoch - My commute is short as well, and by design. The last time I moved 
>>> and got a new job I made sure that my work was in the same zip code as my 
>>> residence. I see your point about riding the Ogre, but again, it’s not a 
>>> cheap bike to replace either. Also, my job is too all-consuming to worry 
>>> about anything else while at work; which can good and bad at times. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Cody - Thanks for adding some real-world experience commuting with that 
>>> killer Hillborne. You’re right, people seem to know Surly better (at least 
>>> here in the Midwest) I probably get more compliments on the Ogre and my 
>>> daughter’s Crosscheck than I do my Rivs. Thanks for adding the pic of your 
>>> bikes…notes the saddle lock…is that wrapped in an old tube? 
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill - Well put. That’s how I’m viewing it. Again, I put more miles on 
>>> the drop bar Atlantis but I ride my commuter WAY more often. Bill, do you 
>>> have the luxury of taking your daily driver inside or do you park out in 
>>> the wild? I’d love to see a pic too if you've got time. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Josiah - Love that you ride those bikes around and lock ‘em up outside. 
>>> I do figure that most people don’t think the Atlantis is cool enough to 
>>> steal, not compared to other bikes around. Indy used to get snow regularly, 
>>> all winter long, but now we get maybe 1 or 2 good snows and the rest is 
>>> just slop. If it’s too nasty I’ll just drive. I don’t have time in the 
>>> mornings to show up covered in road sludge. 
>>>
>>>
>>> B - I agree
>>>
>>>
>>> Patrick - Told ya. First world problem indeed. I work in a hospital in 
>>> critical care and there just really isn’t anywhere to put it. I do park out 
>>> of the way as much as possible but can't take it in. I love that Matthews 
>>> and your utilitarian approach to John’s strap-rigged, awkward, package 
>>> haul’n 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 12:58:48 PM UTC-5 George Schick wrote:
>>>
 I used to do multi-mode commuting before I retired about 18 years ago - 
 ride the bike to the station, take train to the city, walk 4-5 blocks to 
 the office.  Never worried much about theft out here in the 'burbs while 
 working downtown because it was an old early 70's Fuji that I had 
 re-geared 
 and converted for commuting.  It was the ideal bike for that - rode well, 
 handled well, and was by no means an eye-catcher.

 BUT, I'd be way more concerned about salt damage during the Winter 
 months (used to live in the Indy area myself and, yes, they use it on the 
 streets there in abundance) and riding on hazardous icy slick surfaces 
 than 
 I would theft.

 BTW, why the classification of your Indy location, or the U.S. for that 
 matter, as a 1st World country in particular?  In many ways nowadays it is 
 backsliding into 3rd World status.
 On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 11:13:15 AM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Speaking of parking indoors: our priest got tired of me taking the 
> bike into the church (well, it was until a couple of weeks ago a prefab 
> now 
> used as the hall) to park it in the bathroom or library or kitchen, so he 
> gave me a key to the outside utility closet. I had 

Re: [RBW] Re: NBOD: New Bike Ordered Day! The mythical canti-Roa!

[Greg J]

Bill, You have an eclectic and wide ranging taste in bikes, and I am often 
surprised by your choices.  So I can’t wait to see where this one fits in 
your spectrum of rides. 

Greg

On Saturday, December 2, 2023 at 6:45:33 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> ...and 20 months later, it has arrived!  Rivendell received my Cantilever 
> Roadeo from Nobilette this week, and it's off to paint.  I paid them a 
> visit and gave it a look over.  It looks very nice and I'm eager to see it 
> painted, and built up.  
>
> On my visit I had a very nice chat with Grant about various things, and a 
> few of the familiar old faces were there, so it was a pleasant visit all 
> around.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, April 6, 2022 at 11:15:17 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> John
>>
>> I will definitely run my current Roadeo wheelsets.  27mm tubulars.  Rene 
>> Herse Stampede Pass (622-32) and Bon Jon Pass (622-35).  For kicks I'll 
>> probably check how Barlow Passes look on the bike (622-38).  
>>
>> I don't plan on using fenders.  I plan on being able to use fenders.  I 
>> don't have a width or model in mind at the moment.  
>>
>> I am considering using Rene Herse Cantilevers.  Those brakes are super 
>> light, super minimalist, and very not-adjustable.  My opinion is that they 
>> can only work great when a master builder builds the frame and fork with 
>> those brakes in mind.  Weigle and Nobilette are the two who I'd trust to 
>> execute that, because both have done it dozens of times.  
>>
>> I expect to take delivery about a year from now.  Nobilette's queue is 
>> indeed deep, and it contains other Roadeos, Riv customs, and Nobilettes.  
>> I'm happy that Nobilette has the steady work, and hope he is charging what 
>> he needs to keep the lights on.  I was happy to pay the price I've paid.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 6, 2022 at 9:41:52 AM UTC-7 John Hawrylak wrote:
>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> The canti-roadeo sounds great and I wish you the best of luck with it.  
>>> The rear brake bridge is smart idea for canti's or CPs.  Well worth the 
>>> cost to eliminates the cable hanger and all of it's problems.   I'd vote 
>>> for red with cream head tube, just think a darker main color looks best.
>>>
>>> 4 questions
>>> What size tire will you use??
>>> Sounds like you plan on using fenders.   What width are you planning on??
>>> What brakes do you plan on using??
>>> What is the lead time??   I thought the last Blaugh talked about closing 
>>> the custom order book for a time and then starting again something like 1 
>>> year later
>>>
>>> John Hawrylak
>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 5, 2022 at 6:12:10 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 Toshi and Matt asked whether my new frameset will be a Roadeo or a 
 Rivendell Custom

 Yes, it's a Roadeo.  It is priced like a Roadeo, will have Roadeo 
 graphics, and is not a custom.  I went to rivbike.com, put a 59cm 
 Roadeo in my cart and paid for it.  Over email with Mark A, I specified a 
 bunch of details.  They included:

 -threadless steerer (threaded and threadless are no-cost options)
 -DT shifter bosses (shifter bosses or braze on cable stops are no-cost 
 options)
 -canti-posts (this is an option, and I don't know if there will be an 
 upcharge)
 -a Legolas fork crown instead of a Roadeo crown.  Holds the fork blades 
 a tiny bit wider for easier canti-post placement.  Will not change the A-C 
 fork length
 -I will be using cantilever brakes, so I wanted a brazed on rear 
 housing stop.  I asked Mark A if I could get a one-arm braze on like is 
 pictured on one of his personal custom cross bikes, and he said OK.  I 
 don't know what I'll pay for that
 -Roadeo Top Tube slotted cable guides are normally down low and 
 off-center from 6 o'clock.  Legolas slotted cable guides are at 12 o'clock 
 for two cross-racing reasons.  I asked for mine off center up top, biased 
 to the non-drive side
 -fender attach points (no cost option)

 BL in EC  

 On Tuesday, April 5, 2022 at 1:56:09 PM UTC-7 ttoshi wrote:

> So this is a semi-custom canti-Roadeo and not a full custom?  Threaded 
> or threadless? Can't wait to see it!
>
> Toshi
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 5, 2022 at 1:37 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> Mike
>>
>> You are right that there are gatekeepers.  In this case, the 
>> gatekeepers are Grant and Mark A.  Grant's main thing is if you buy a 
>> Roadeo, and they put Roadeo on it, it's got to be a Roadeo.  I asked 
>> them 
>> about the concept in principal back in 2020, and I was only like 60/40 
>> that 
>> they would say yes, but they said OK at that time.  This week, I gave 
>> Mark 
>> A my full list of details, and Mark A cleared all of them, so I paid for 
>> it.  Now I'll wait and ride the other bikes in the 

[RBW] Re: A Homer Hill build....

[Greg J]

@Sarah - maybe the easiest thing is to go on a ride with some local list 
members who can give you some ideas while you're actually riding on these 
roads.  

For example, have you ridden a 24T granny on the road---and if so, with 
what rear cog?  A 24 is really very low for the road (but not for dirt), 
and a 24T - 32 in the back may be too low to be useful.  A 26 or even a 28 
may be a better granny depending on your cassette range.  But as mentioned 
already, only you know what works for you.

Greg

On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 6:13:55 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Bike nerd input is heartily welcomed. Gearing has been a challenge for me 
> to understand but from spending hours reading and trying things out I'm 
> starting to understand... thanks to other bike nerds!
>
> The outcome is I will likely be giving a triple a try. The 34 is my 
> favorite chain ring to live in, but I long for the higher and lower gearing 
> when I don't have them. And somehow my brain gets the function of the 
> triple more than trying to understand all the combinations possible with 
> the cassette, and trying to comprehend "gearing math."
>
> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 1:45:07 PM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 12:34:51 PM UTC-6 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>> I would echo that triples are pretty nice - not only do you get more 
>> range, but the 10-tooth jumps in the front are a lot less 'disruptive' if 
>> you know what I mean. I find the smaller chainring jump means that when I 
>> hit the base of a hill I can often just drop a chainring and leave the rear 
>> alone, and it is a natural gear reduction .. whereas on the wide-low 
>> double, you would be spinning like crazy if you tried the same thing
>>
>>
>> Excellent point, and one that launches me into bike nerd mode... 
>> apologies in advance if this is too much.
>>
>> The "standard" chainring gap became 16 teeth when "compact double" 50x34 
>> combos became all the rage. That's a 39% jump, the way I measure it 
>> (Ln(50/34)), or about 2.5 times the 15.4% jump from 18 to 21 in back. Now, 
>> if you keep that 16 tooth gap but go down to 40x24, that's a ginormous 51% 
>> jump, which is 3.3x the 18-21 jump. I have a 42x26 on my Waterford ST-22, 
>> and it's definitely jarring to drop to the small ring when you hit a hill, 
>> requiring a bit of advance planning to shift a cog harder in the rear, 
>> first. I spent plenty of time riding half-step gearing, so I'm facile with 
>> double-shifting, but after a couple hundred kms I'm too tired for that. For 
>> my Breadwinner G-Road I went with 44x32, which is a gentle 32% jump. It 
>> means there's more overlap in the gearing, or to put it another way, I'm 
>> not maximizing the total range of the system, but I very much prefer to 
>> make that trade-off. At 41%, the 14-tooth gap on the Silver 42x28's on my 
>> Sams is pretty much the outer limit for me. The Wide-Low (38x24) is a 46% 
>> jump which is pretty high.
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] A Homer Hill build....

[Greg J]

Forgive me for bike-splaining here, but it seems like you're narrowing it 
down, so here's some more for your consideration.

Given where you ride, it makes sense to start with a triple, since that 
will cover all your bases (steep uphills, general riding, and fast 
downhills).

   1. What type of triple?  There are different bolt circle diameter (bcd) 
   standards for cranksets, and that dictates the sizes of the chainrings. 
The "Riv standard" is 110/74 (110 for middle and large; 74 for small). 
The smallest chainring for a 74bcd is 24T, and the smallest chainring for 
   110 bcd is 34T.  The 110/74 is probably the "Riv standard."  (There's also 
   94/58, which can give you smaller middle and small chainrings, but these 
   cranksets are harder to come by.)
   2. What size chainrings?  This depends on what you feel you're missing 
   currently, between the front chainrings and rear cassette.  If you're using 
   a 24T, do you use the largest rear cassette?  Do you want an even "easier" 
   gear?  In the 34T, do you use generally the middle range of your cassette? 
or are you biased towards the larger or smaller half?  For the large 
   chainring, unless you want to go faster than your coasting speed downhill, 
   you likely won't need anything any larger than 46T.   Typically, the 
   standard combos comprise of 46-48T large, 34-38T mid, and 24-28 small.
   3. What cassette?  This should be decided in combination with #2 above. 
The smallest cog is typically 11-13T.  The largest is all over the place, 
   but with "standard" long cage rear derailleurs, imo a good range is between 
   28 and 36T.
   4. Index or friction shifting?  I would not rule out friction shifting 
   for the front, as indexing front shifters can be finicky.  The rear is 
   entirely your preference.  
   5. A not-so-radical alternative.  Many people who don't need to go fast 
   downhill will skip the large chainring of a triple and just use the inner 
   and middle.  For example, if you're happy with your 34 or 36T middle 
   chainring and the smallest cassette cog of 11T, then you'll save some 
   weight and benefit from less complexity by leaving out the large chainring. 


Good luck!
On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 7:24:42 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> This is gearing math I can understand... there is a Papa bear, and Mama 
> bear, and a Baby bear... and something that will be just right for everyone!
>
> On Monday, November 27, 2023 at 6:55:19 AM UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> IMO redundant gears are more of a conceptual or theoretical concern than 
>> a real issue. If you’re setting up a triple, you really end up with:
>>
>> - a middle ring for the majority of your riding 
>> - a small ring for big hills, use it with the biggest cogs in back
>> - a big ring for downhills or otherwise going fast. Use it with your 
>> medium and small cogs and back. 
>>
>> Yes, your small/small and big/big combos will give you those redundant 
>> gears, but who cares? You don’t need to use them anyway. 
>>
>> Eric 
>> Who lives the 1x life in flat central Ohio 
>>
>>
>> On Monday, November 27, 2023, Sarah Carlson  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you for bringing up the redundant gears... in my brain I'm telling 
>>> myself maybe it's overkill... but is it really such a terrible thing?
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 5:27:48 PM UTC-8 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 You bring up a good point Ted about so-called redundant gears, which is 
 something many cyclists try to eliminate as much as possible to their own 
 practical detriment. It's better to approach planning a drivetrain by 
 identifying how low you want your low gear to be, how high you want your 
 high gear to be, and then finding the most user-friendly combination to 
 get 
 there. A big issue with wide-range doubles is that you'll find that you 
 need to drop into the small ring for every hill, whereas if you have a 
 triple, you can generally stay in the middle ring most of the time and 
 save 
 a lot of front shifts, even though you have more rings up there. 

 For me, I find I don't need anything above about 95 gear inches - above 
 that and I'm going to coast, maybe tuck in and get aero. Maybe 100 tops. 
 On 
 the low end, if it's used off-road or to carry loads I'll want something 
 in 
 the 18-20 gear inch range, but if it's a roadish bike, 24-25 inches is 
 good. So what I tend to do is run a double but size the rings such that I 
 truncate the big gears I'll almost never use, so that I can run a big ring 
 on the double that I can stay in on gentle climbs. 40/28 to 11-34 is a 
 great combo, for instance. Even 38/26 to 11-28 to get some smaller steps 
 on 
 the back, and 38-11 is a big enough top gear for most situations 

 On Sun, Nov 26, 2023 at 1:45 PM Ted Durant  wrote:

> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 12:34:51 PM UTC-6 Jason Fuller 

[RBW] Re: A Homer Hill build....

[Greg J]

On the topic of gearing, I recently went from a wide range double to a 
triple and find it to be an improvement in one important way.  On the 
double I had the total range I needed (46-30 front, 12-30 or so, generally 
enough for most east bay hills).  But I found that I was cross-chaining on 
the gears that I find myself in most often (those gears were mostly in the 
big-big range or small-small range).  I converted to a triple with a 40 
chaining up front (48-40-28), and my favorite cruising gears are now in the 
middle of the sprocket (I’m guessing 16-20 range) on the 40t chainring. 

All this to say, next time you’re on the hilly type of ride that you want 
this new bike for (on your current bike), think about what gears you’re in 
and how you might want to change them.  Do you want a lower low end? 
 Higher high?  And what is the middle gear range that you find yourself 
riding most of the time?  That could help make your decision on a triple 
(which, as you know, is a little heavier and a little more complicated due 
to having to shift across 3 rather than 2 chainrings, both in the mechansm 
and in your riding habit).

Greg

On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 8:29:37 AM UTC-8 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> And it was a beginner ride with a avg 12 mile posted pace. I almost told 
> him i hoped I hadn't held him back from making a personal best time on that 
> ride!
>
> My other bikes are set up perfect for what I do, so no stripping! Although 
> I might have to consider that myself to bring in money for my bike habit.
>
> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 7:45:47 AM UTC-8 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 9:25:01 AM UTC-6 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>> You always need a Hilly Bike... Do it!
>>
>> A list full of enablers :-)
>>  
>>
>> I had an injury (shoulder) last year and had what I would call total 
>> fitness depletion so I have been building back up from what feels like 
>> zero. 
>>
>> I'm very sympathetic to that.  I've had a bunch of weird stuff happen 
>> over the last few years, including a drug that started killing my red blood 
>> cells, so I have felt like I've had to restart the engine a few times. That 
>> might be one reason why my bikes are all set up the same way ... trying to 
>> stick with what works in terms of positioning, while I get the other things 
>> going.
>>  
>>
>>  So while I figure that out I'm open to seeing what a lighter built up 
>> bike can do. 
>>
>> Far be it for me not to be the enabler of buying another Riv, but have 
>> you considered stripping down one of your existing bikes and trying some 
>> nice, light tires? In my experience, tires make by far and away the biggest 
>> difference to how a bike feels, and if you've dialed in a good riding 
>> position, you could start there (and maybe a wider range set of gears in 
>> back). Removing a rear rack can also remove some stiffness from the rear of 
>> the bike, but I don't know how many people would feel that difference, 
>> especially on a bike that's already fairly stout and on cushy tires.
>>
>> with exception to the guy who led the first beginner ride I went on, 
>> looked at my bike and stated, "I hope I can ride slow enough..." 
>>
>>
>> Hoo boy, just the kind of person you want leading a group ride...  one of 
>> the reasons I stopped going on group rides.
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Compliments

[Greg J]

It's actually a big downside for me.  As someone who is generally 
uncomfortable with compliments, I find myself choosing not to ride my Riv 
as much because of the attention it gets.  My other, 
equally-attention-worthy bikes (vintage Ritchey, Eisentraut, Gordon) never 
elicit the level of attention that the Riv does.



On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 10:55:11 AM UTC-8 Mike Godwin wrote:

> Indeed. Rode along with the SLO bike club one day on my Roadeo (white with 
> blue head tube) with my Sunday riding buddy. A few folks were asking about 
> it, one rider even took some photos. Other comments from strangers have 
> been, "its vintage, how old is it?" or "you have a triple chainring, 
> haven't seen that in a long time." 
>
> Its nothing special, but it does get attention fur sure. 
>
> Mike SLO CA 
> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 8:36:06 AM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Thanks rich...can't bring myself to sell them yet even though I haven't 
>> been riding them as much
>>
>> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 10:27:02 AM UTC-6 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Ryan, nice bikes. Very nice!!!
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Rich in ATL
>>>
>>> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 11:04:36 AM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>>
 I always admired that bike, jock 

 these 2 always get compliments[image: 20230728_130429.jpg]
 On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 8:30:09 AM UTC-6 John Dewey wrote:

> Y'all, I'm a GA southerner recently displaced in NorCAL and I get 
> tagged for comments damn near every time out it seems. The locals are 
> pretty much dialed in, even folks you'd never guess be interested. 
>
> I'm guessing the color or the mudguards is the attraction...but the 
> comments aren't so unusual as the recognition as Rivendell. Many say 
> 'ooo, 
> nice Riv." That definitely never happened before. 
>
> Jock
>
> [image: Screenshot 2023-11-16 at 6.17.45 AM.png]
>
> On Thu, Nov 16, 2023 at 5:47 AM Nick A.  wrote:
>
>> I've been lucky enough here in the D.C. area to receive a number of 
>> compliments for my Atlantis while out and about. Notably, many of the 
>> complimenters are gentleman older than I that always wanted a Riv but 
>> for 
>> whatever reason never pulled the trigger. Or, have never seen them in 
>> real 
>> life. They ask if it was worth it, and I say "yes" without hesitation. 
>>
>> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 6:07:08 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>>
>>> My orange Rambouillet draws unsolicited compliments often. When 
>>> riding The Five Boro Ride in NYC a few years ago my wife was impressed 
>>> by 
>>> the number of strangers who pulled alongside, took a long look at my 
>>> bike 
>>> and either gave silent thumbs up or gave compliment to it. She noticed 
>>> the 
>>> relative anonymity of all the CFRP bikes and how their riders looked 
>>> dejected when positive comments on my bike came. Near the Verrazano 
>>> Narrows 
>>> Bridge she said "It's like we've been riding with 30,000 of your 
>>> friends."
>>>
>>> Andy Cheatham
>>> Pittsburgh
>>> On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 3:01:31 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:
>>>
 So one thing I’ve noticed - I mean REALLY noticed - about our 
 Rivendell bikes is that they get compliments.

 I ride the Silver Comet near Atlanta.  
 https://groups.google.com/g/bicycletouring/c/cFpcvUWqzkA
 For 15 years I rode a Diamondback Approach, a decent hybrid bike 
 (as they called those back in the ’90s).  I never heard a word from 
 fellow 
 riders.
 Then in 2015 I got a Sam Hillborne.  Bog standard, as the Brits say 
 - Sage Blue, cork grips.  I added some fenders and started seriously 
 hitting the trail for exercise.

 Suddenly folks are pulling up next to me (or going past), and 
 saying “Nice bike!”  Now I’m 74 and banging along at about 11 mph, so 
 it’s 
 not tough to pull up next to me.  But this happens 2 - 3 times a year. 
  It 
 surprises me.

 A couple of nice ladies went on about the friction shifters and “a 
 hard leather seat.  He’s hard core!”, before riding off on their 
 carbon 
 Cannondales.  A nice gentleman commented at length on the cork grips.  
 Maybe he was a fly fisherman?

 It happened again yesterday when I stopped for water.  Two guys 
 also stopped and were very complimentary about the Sam.  One asked to 
 ride 
 it (sure!) and came back grinning (“If I didn’t already have too many 
 bikes…”)
 It surprised my wife, too.  I built her up a Platypus last winter, 
 and on her second ride she got a “Nice bike!” from someone.  She came 
 home 
 with smiles.

 Does this happen to you when you ride your 

[RBW] Re: Atlantis date indicators

[Greg J]

The serial number would give you a definitive answer.  Or if you’re 
concerned about revealing the entire number, just the orientation around 
the bb and general letter/number sequence. 

On Friday, November 10, 2023 at 2:45:56 PM UTC-8 dylantho...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi everyone - 
>
> currently speaking with a seller of an atlantis 2 - dated 2011. This has 
> the cream accent panel on the seat tube. My old atlantis had a 2 but no 
> cream accent panel. Just to clarify, the 2 on the seat tubes does mean both 
> are the 'Atlantis 2'? Given it's 2011 - would this be Toyo? It has the more 
> ornate lugs...
>

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[RBW] Looking for 54cm Rambouillet

[Greg J]

Hi folks,

Wondering if anyone has an early Rambouillet (orange, with the sharper 
lugs) in a 54cm that they are thinking about moving along?

I have a 56cm that is a little on the large side and am thinking I'd ride a 
54 more.  Also happy to explore a trade +/- $ depending on condition, etc.

thanks, Greg
Oakland CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Differences between Sam Hillborne and A Homer Hilsen

[Greg J]

That seat stay cap was used across various models - I don't know if it is a 
Riv-sourced custom piece - but it doesn't have anything to do with 
Waterford (nor is it intended to be a "W" - just a decoration.

On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 3:51:23 PM UTC-7 Hetchins52 wrote:

> Here’s mine. A Toyo by its serial number and Frank’s pics. You can see one 
> of the third water bottle mounts at the top in the photo.
> Year? I don’t know. I bought the frameset third-hand, six years ago, and 
> thought it might be 2009 using some of the info on CycloFiend.
>
> David
> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 2:47:51 PM UTC-7 frank_a wrote:
>
>> [image: 7052F7D8-A7C3-40E9-BF7D-7549C10B03C0.jpeg][image: 
>> C25083FA-4E17-4971-90D1-18B4084AC777.jpeg]
>> The serial number will tell you if it’s a Toyo or Waterford built frame.
>> Toyo serial numbers are large and run across the bb shell while the 
>> Waterford numbers are smaller and are oriented around the shell, parallel 
>> to the outer edge. One photo is a Saluki and the other photo is a Waterford 
>> built Rosco.
>> The Toyo Atlantis’ read: AT0001 and so on, Homer: AH0001
>> SA0026 - the 26th Saluki
>> - Frank
>>
>> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 11:26:35 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> I looked on Cyclofiend and where they were visible, the Atlantises all 
>>> appeared to have the W. It may not be related to Waterford after all.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 2, 2022 at 10:48:29 AM UTC-4 Danny wrote:
>>>
 The early Atlantis brochures show the W on the seat stay cap with Toyo 
 being the only listed builder in the brochures. My Riv knowledge is not 
 very deep, so perhaps Waterford was building the Atlantis as well at that 
 time? or Riv was buying the seat stay caps from them?

 Atlantis 2001 brochure 
 
 Atlantis 2002 brochure 
 

 [image: Screen Shot 2022-09-02 at 9.15.04 AM Medium.jpeg]
 [image: Screen Shot 2022-09-02 at 9.36.37 AM Medium.jpeg]

 -Danny







 On Fri, Sep 2, 2022 at 7:41 AM Bill Schairer  wrote:

> In general, is one not able to tell from the serial number?
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 11:50:12 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> That is a first class detail. Don’t believe it was on my formerly 
>> owned 2014 Waterford Atlantis so perhaps the W was featured on certain 
>> models? I am fond of concave seat stay caps though. Happy that they’re 
>> on 
>> my Sam.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 1:06 PM, J J  wrote:
>>
>>> Laing, thanks for the interesting bit about Waterford-built frames. 
>>> This is the first I hear. I never noticed the W as a deliberate W (as 
>>> opposed to being strictly an embellishment) on my Waterford 
>>> Hunqapillar, so 
>>> it was cool to see it for what it is. I had to check the other Rivs in 
>>> the 
>>> stable, all Toyo built, and of course none has the W.
>>>
>>> Thanks again!
>>>
>>> [image: Hunq Waterford seat stay end.jpeg]
>>> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 9:47:06 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>>
 Don't Waterford frames have a distinctive seat stay end cap with a 
 'W" in the recess - my Bombadil does. This is a better picture from 
 the 
 Waterford site, but the same as my Bombadil:

 [image: 
 6881680380_566caa3985_z-nwiouwjw51r3qwj11ieoc8axc7o69w290ux5x1it4w.jpg]

 Laing



 On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 3:05:54 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard 
 wrote:

> THAT'S it. I knew there was a difference between the two but 
> couldn't remember the detail change. But I think yours is backwards, 
> my 
> recollection is Toyo had two sets of bottle bosses and the later 
> Waterford 
> got the third set. 
>
> On Thursday, September 1, 2022 at 12:01:05 AM UTC-7 Hetchins52 
> wrote:
>
>> Not sure that it is totally definitive but I expect the Toyo AHH 
>> to have three water bottle boss pairs and the Waterford to have two 
>> pairs 
>> (none under the down tube).
>>
>> David Lipsky
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 7:11:42 PM UTC-7 James wrote:
>>
>>> I have an older AHH.  Anyone know how I can tell if it's Toyo or 
>>> Waterford made?
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 5:52:35 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>
 I had an older MUSA AHH 61 (2006-ish?) and a Taiwan Sam 62 
 (2015-ish) with 2TT and for a brief spell I also had a 2TT 58. All 
 of them 

[RBW] Re: Phil Rivy hub axle OLD 130->126->120 respacing

[Greg J]

I did this on an older Phil FW hub.  You can buy a shorter axle end piece 
on the FW side, but there are differences over the years, so you should 
contact Phil directly and get the one that fits that model.  Then you'll 
have to re-dish the wheel.

Greg

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 8:28:12 AM UTC-7 Max S wrote:

> Question for those who might know... 
> I've got a Phil hubbed wheelset, the rear uses what I believe is a Rivy 
> hub, freewheel version. I could be mis-remembering, but I believe the idea 
> was to use flanges and spacing that basically make front and rear use the 
> same length spokes. At any rate, the rear hub is spaced for 130 mm 
> over-locknut dimension. I'm shoving it into a frame that uses a narrower 
> spacing, say 126 (although 120 may be it). 
> Can I get a different axle or axle end caps to accomplish this? 
> TIA, 
>
> - Max "obsolete by the time I get out of bed" in A2
>

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[RBW] Re: Atlantis Old vs New?

[Greg J]

Most of this is coming from (pretty foggy) memory:  I believe there are 
Wford built Atlantises from a period when Riv had issues sourcing Toyo 
frames.  At least at the time, WF was using its own proprietary dropouts- 
the svelte ones with a curve on the insider triangle, compared to the more 
generic ones that Toyo used at that time, so that's one "tell."  (But 
later, Riv must have licensed or bought similar dropouts and stamped them 
Rivendell, so visually this may not be helpful.)  And all WF frames have 
WF's running serial numbers, so that's a sure way to tell.  

Greg

On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 8:32:31 AM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:

> Here's another one showing the curve of the Toyo chainstays well.  It has 
> the same round lugs, which are like the blue and later Rambouillets.  That 
> would make sense, as these were the first two production frames and 
> contemporaries, both made at Toyo.  
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2006/cc161-garyrogers0906.html
>
> So maybe the "small" pointed lugs, which also appeared on the orange 
> Rambouillets, indicate the oldest Atlanti?  Like this:
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2010/cc763-jayscheiner0410.html
>
> Likewise, maybe the "big" pointy lugs are slightly  later.  They would 
> have been shared with the Saluki, which came slightly later than the Ram 
> and Atlantis.  Like this:
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2008/cc446-willcarey0208.html
>
> Obviously  lots of good images on the Cyclofiend site, for analyzing 
> this.  I think contributions/updates sort of tapered off around the same 
> time as the switch to Taiwanese production, right Jim?:
>
> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/atlantis/index.html
>
>
> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 8:25:32 AM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:
>
>> One of the difficulties in identifying builder/age is that there were 
>> running changes right from the beginning. 
>>
>>  I think you can pretty safely identify the Toyo frames by the shape of 
>> the chainstays.  They had a graceful S-shape, with a curve behind the 
>> bottom bracket for tire clearance; then a straighter section  more-or-less 
>> parallel, for foot/crank clearance;  then curving out again before meeting 
>> the rear dropout at 135mm width.   Slightly newer frames had more 
>> common-shaped j-shaped stays that angled straight to the dropout after the 
>> first bend.  I'm not sure what builders did what though, or if later Toyo 
>> frames changed.
>>
>> The very earliest Atlanti would have had an RC-1 crown, with the 
>> triangular window.
>>
>> The lugs are more of a crapshoot.  Here's one that has the 
>> above-described chainstays and fork crown, but has rounded lugs instead of 
>> one of the two pointy styles I'd always thought were used from the earliest:
>>
>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2007/cc412-clivestandley1207.html
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, May 4, 2023 at 12:47:46 PM UTC-6 MisterMo wrote:
>>
>>> Was there ever a Waterford Atlantis?  How can one tell the difference 
>>> between a Toyo Atlantis and any others?  ie, is the 'pointy' lugged 
>>> Atlantis Toyo built?  
>>>
>>> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 4:22:39 PM UTC-4 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>>>
 I don't have an atlantis - but for a long time rode a crust romancuer, 
 which was somewhat based off the old atlantis's. I thought it was the bees 
 knees for a long time, but never felt right *for me* especially while 
 trying to use upright bars. It felt amazing with drops however. Due to 
 neck 
 injuries and unable to set the bike up in it's best form decided to trade 
 my Romanceur for a Clementine. It is a day and night difference of ride 
 with boscos and long top tube and wheelbase. 

 My summarization would be: 

 For drop bar setup - an older atlantis would be nice. There are a more 
 similar bikes available like the older atlantis frames. AKA large tire 
 clearance touring bikes. Bassi Le Montreal, Crust Romancuer, etc. 

 For upright bars - the long wheelbase and top tube rivs truly shine in 
 their comfort, performance, and handling. I don't think there are a lot of 
 bikes out there outside of rivendell with similar wheelbase and handling 
 characteristics. I get a bit annoyed with the constant rebuttal that 
 "they're just over priced 80's mountain bikes" - but they took everything 
 good about 80s mountain bikes and improved it. Longer wheelbases and top 
 tubes. Better steering geometry. Higher head tubes. More clearance for 
 larger tires. Lots of braze on options for racks and bags. etc. 

 On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 8:32:06 AM UTC-7 Ken Yokanovich wrote:

> I have a 61cm Toyo-built Atlantis. I had not ridden the bike for about 
> 3 years due to some unexpected life change circumstances and then a 
> repaint/rebuild. I also have a latest-generation 57cm Appaloosa that I 
> have 
> owned and ridden during those 3 years for recreation, errands, and 
> commuting. The current 

Re: [RBW] Riv Garage Sale hauls

[Greg J]

Frankly, I saw you but didn't get a chance to say hello.  My haul looks 
similar to yours (but smaller!) - 2x rims (26" Synergy), a Simworks flared 
drop bar, a set of QR's, and a Jack Brown tire.  I wish I could have bought 
a wool base layer but I ran out of cash.

Greg

On Sunday, March 26, 2023 at 11:28:16 AM UTC-7 Chris L wrote:

> Love the photo near the end that shows how much the Atlantis has changed 
> over the years.
>
> On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 9:08:35 PM UTC-5 nicklin...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> It was a PERFECT DAY to visit the shop and browse for bits & pieces.  A 
>> great turnout.  
>>
>> [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg][image: image2.jpeg][image: 
>> image3.jpeg][image: image4.jpeg][image: image5.jpeg][image: image6.jpeg]
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 2:52 PM, Franklyn Wu  wrote:
>>
>> I got there just before Riv open the sale. I chatted with people, some 
>> of whom I haven't seen before COVID! So many neat bikes 
>>  that people rode to the sale. 
>> Here is my haul. People post what you got today!
>>
>> Franklyn
>>
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/eb7dae3b-5552-4df3-a0a1-0a1d5558b347n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>> <20230325_121121[1].jpg>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Garage Sale Saturday

[Greg J]

The muddy Riv with the knobby tires and Carradice is my Waterford Riv - 
I've been swapping bars on it (which is why it remains untaped) and was 
toying with getting an upright bar (Losco, Albatross), but I picked up a 
flared shallow drop bar at the garage sale so that will be the next 
iteration.

Greg

On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 4:40:52 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:

> Yeah...thanks for that, Philip. I think that midnight blue bike was an 
> early Waterford-built all-rounder, not a legolas as someone on Insta said. 
> Anyway looks like it was a fun event
>
> On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 9:54:59 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Huge thanks to Philip for sharing all the images over on Insta, I got the 
>> virtual tour I was dying for!
>>
>> On Sunday, March 26, 2023 at 10:34:08 PM UTC-4 Evan E. wrote:
>>
>>> Keith H. asked about the orange Rambouillet that is missing paint. Will 
>>> of Rivendell told me that the chainstay bridge and the seatstay bridges 
>>> were moved farther from the rear dropout to enable larger tires to fit. “I 
>>> think this frame will take 45s now,” he said. He didn’t say why the top 
>>> tube and downtube and head tube are now bare steel, and I didn’t think to 
>>> ask. We both just stood there and admired the frame. 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 1:16:04 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>>>
 Id like to know the story on the orange Rambouillet that is all 
 stripped.  I love to remember that lugged frames can almost always be be 
 repaired.  

 On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 2:12:20 PM UTC-6 iamkeith wrote:

>
> I'm always bummed to miss these, but those buds on the trees and bike 
> rack full of shopper's bikes are especially painful this year.  All that 
> rain that CA has been getting translates to snow here.  It'll be months 
> before I could enjoy something like that.
> On Saturday, March 25, 2023 at 1:42:57 PM UTC-6 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Still bummed to have missed this.
>> I bet my Tosco bar was sad to miss me!
>>
>> Nice Hardrock I see!
>>
>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 10:52, Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Is that custom paint, or was there an orange Atlantis at some point?
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> On Sat, Mar 25, 2023 at 10:08 AM Keith Paugh  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Did you achieve #7?
>>>
>>> (Beautiful Atlantis )
>>>
>>> k.
>>>
>>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:53 AM, Matthew Williams <
>>> matthewwil...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Garage Sale Saturday

[Greg J]

I'm planning to ride over on my A/R, if anyone wants to join me.

Greg / Oakland



On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:44:46 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I love a good garage sale, hope y'all have fun!
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 2:05:37 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Yep! I’ll be there.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2023, at 11:04 AM, Paul Choi  wrote:
>>
>> I'm planning on going to garage sale on Saturday. Is anyone else here 
>> planning on going?
>> Hope to see some of the locals there. 
>>
>> Cheers, 
>>
>> Paul in Santa Clara
>>
>> -- 
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/84c47c76-8782-4b97-be5a-65f5889b9731n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let's talk about the All Rounder

[Greg J]

My recollection from one of the early Readers was that Grant felt that 
p-clamps worked just fine, and they didn't lock you into a single type of 
racks/fenders/what have you.  A big part of the Riv philosophy is that 
these frames can be used for a long time and are not encumbered by fashion. 
 As others have noted, all racks are different, and it would be a pain (and 
a lot more work) to braze-on attachment points, only to have them be 
useless because the rack doesn't fit or the style of racks change (e.g., 
shift from front panniers to baskets).  Now, maybe due to customer demand, 
Rivs do have braze-ons, but he has gone the opposite direction of having 
multiple sets of braze-ons still in an effort to make them flexible 
for different rack systems.  

Also, I think generally, Grant's aesthetic runs more towards the 
utilitarian-DIY-strap things on with wires and straps, rather than the 
perfect fender lines and perfectly-placed braze-ons for custom racks of 
Jan's rando bikes.

On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 5:27:19 PM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’d be curious to hear what sort of justification Grant had for claiming 
> that p-clamps were superior to actual mid-fork braze ons. To me, a fixed 
> mounting point seems like a secure no-brainer… less fiddly bits, no 
> unsightly black rubber, and it looks so much cleaner.
>
> But then again, it wouldn’t surprise me either way.
>
> On Mar 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Junes  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi m f, welcome! Congrats on the bike. 
>
> Regarding your question: 
>
> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without 
> rack mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special 
> request to not have them?
>
>
> It’s not totally unusual for Rivs, particularly early-ish ones, to have 
> forks devoid of rack mount eyelets. Two of my Rivs don’t have them, one an 
> Atlantis, explicitly positioned as an all-rounder, and one a Glorius. 
> (Incidentally both were Toyo built.) In an early Atlantis brochure, Grant 
> even wrote that a lack of such fork eyelets is better because using clamps 
> to attach rack struts to forks is superior. All recent Rivs have eyelets 
> galore, though.  
>
> On Mar 22, 2023, at 19:08, Andrew Letton  wrote:
>
> 
> Nice bike!
> My All-Rounder and Road Standard have Joe Bell paint and both have the JB 
> logo on the left chainstay like this:
>
> <1679526443662blob.jpg>
>
>
>
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 10:03:03 AM GMT+11, m f <
> rockthr...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> Hi - I'm new here! Not sure how many of you saw this on eBay over the past 
> few months, but I was able to work with the seller and found a way to buy 
> this 2000 All-Rounder (Curt Goodrich). I have a couple updates in mind 
> (sweptback handlebar, Brooks saddle), but those will happen with time. 
> First step will be new tires and tuning the mechanicals (Dura Ace except 
> for crankset) so I can get a ride or two under my belt. If the seller is in 
> this group - thanks again for all the help!
>
> Questions for the group: 
> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without 
> rack mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special 
> request to not have them?
> What are the markers that indicate the frame was painted at Joe Bell's 
> shop?
>
>
>
> 
> On Sunday, March 20, 2022 at 8:09:10 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> The All Rounder like the XO-1 before it gets a lot of interest and praise, 
> but I think that, like the XO-1 that preceeded it, it is an early design 
> that has been superseded and bettered by later Grantian bikes, starting 
> with the Atlantis and continuing with the Sam Hillborne and doubtless the 
> more recent models.
>
> I say this having owned an XO-1 and having bought a custom Road based on 
> the All Rounder, with lighter (753) tubing and slightly more upright hta 
> (IIRC). My 1999 and 2003 Road customs, also built for 26" wheels, are 
> better "All Round" both on pavement and in dirt than either XO-1 and the 
> first Road custom, with much longer chainstays, slightly sacker head, and 
> upsloping tts with extended head tubes. 
>
> I say again that the later Road customs ride better on dirt, particularly 
> sandy surfaces, than the XO-1 and the first gen, AR-based road custom.
>
> I think -- but I am open to reasoned rebuttal -- that an Atlantis or Sam 
> Hill would be better for all round riding than either XOs or ARs.
>
> -- 
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>
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>  
> 

Re: [RBW] Re: Let's talk about the All Rounder

[Greg J]

My recollection from one of the early Readers was that Grant felt that 
p-clamps worked just fine, and they offered more flexibility.  A big part 
of the Riv philosophy is that these frames can be used for a long time and 
are not encumbered by fashion.  As others have noted, all racks are 
different, and it would be a pain (and a lot more work) to braze-on 
attachment points, only to have them be useless because the rack doesn't 
fit or the style of racks change (e.g., shift from front panniers to 
baskets).  Now, maybe due to customer demand, I think Rivs have many 
braze-ons, so now he is going the opposite direction of having multiple 
sets of braze-ons still in an effort to make them flexible for different 
rack systems.  

Also, I think generally, Grant's aesthetic runs more towards the 
utilitarian-DIY-strap things on by wire and straps, rather than the perfect 
fender lines and perfectly-placed braze-ons for custom racks of Jan's rando 
bikes.

On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 5:27:19 PM UTC-7 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> I’d be curious to hear what sort of justification Grant had for claiming 
> that p-clamps were superior to actual mid-fork braze ons. To me, a fixed 
> mounting point seems like a secure no-brainer… less fiddly bits, no 
> unsightly black rubber, and it looks so much cleaner.
>
> But then again, it wouldn’t surprise me either way.
>
> On Mar 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Junes  wrote:
>
> 
>
> Hi m f, welcome! Congrats on the bike. 
>
> Regarding your question: 
>
> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without 
> rack mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special 
> request to not have them?
>
>
> It’s not totally unusual for Rivs, particularly early-ish ones, to have 
> forks devoid of rack mount eyelets. Two of my Rivs don’t have them, one an 
> Atlantis, explicitly positioned as an all-rounder, and one a Glorius. 
> (Incidentally both were Toyo built.) In an early Atlantis brochure, Grant 
> even wrote that a lack of such fork eyelets is better because using clamps 
> to attach rack struts to forks is superior. All recent Rivs have eyelets 
> galore, though.  
>
> On Mar 22, 2023, at 19:08, Andrew Letton  wrote:
>
> 
> Nice bike!
> My All-Rounder and Road Standard have Joe Bell paint and both have the JB 
> logo on the left chainstay like this:
>
> <1679526443662blob.jpg>
>
>
>
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 10:03:03 AM GMT+11, m f <
> rockthr...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> Hi - I'm new here! Not sure how many of you saw this on eBay over the past 
> few months, but I was able to work with the seller and found a way to buy 
> this 2000 All-Rounder (Curt Goodrich). I have a couple updates in mind 
> (sweptback handlebar, Brooks saddle), but those will happen with time. 
> First step will be new tires and tuning the mechanicals (Dura Ace except 
> for crankset) so I can get a ride or two under my belt. If the seller is in 
> this group - thanks again for all the help!
>
> Questions for the group: 
> It seems odd to find an All Rounder, or any Riv for that matter, without 
> rack mounts on the upper/mid fork blade. Would this have been a special 
> request to not have them?
> What are the markers that indicate the frame was painted at Joe Bell's 
> shop?
>
>
>
> 
> On Sunday, March 20, 2022 at 8:09:10 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> The All Rounder like the XO-1 before it gets a lot of interest and praise, 
> but I think that, like the XO-1 that preceeded it, it is an early design 
> that has been superseded and bettered by later Grantian bikes, starting 
> with the Atlantis and continuing with the Sam Hillborne and doubtless the 
> more recent models.
>
> I say this having owned an XO-1 and having bought a custom Road based on 
> the All Rounder, with lighter (753) tubing and slightly more upright hta 
> (IIRC). My 1999 and 2003 Road customs, also built for 26" wheels, are 
> better "All Round" both on pavement and in dirt than either XO-1 and the 
> first Road custom, with much longer chainstays, slightly sacker head, and 
> upsloping tts with extended head tubes. 
>
> I say again that the later Road customs ride better on dirt, particularly 
> sandy surfaces, than the XO-1 and the first gen, AR-based road custom.
>
> I think -- but I am open to reasoned rebuttal -- that an Atlantis or Sam 
> Hill would be better for all round riding than either XOs or ARs.
>
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>  
> 
> .
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> 

[RBW] Re: Betty Foy Brake Problem

[Greg J]

I have this issue with my bikes, but I just assumed that this was an 
inherent trade-off if I'm using any tire larger than 32 with caliper 
brakes.  Are there caliper brakes that open wider using the QR?  
Greg

On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 9:36:19 AM UTC-7 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm familiar with the adjuster on the lever and with cable splitters, 
> since I have a coupled tandem (which I will be selling soon).  The cable 
> splitter won't work on the front brake since the housing runs from lever to 
> caliper.  I'm not familiar with the Shimano in line QR.  Looks interesting. 
>  Perhaps before I buy the next set of tires.
> Michael
>
> On Saturday, March 18, 2023 at 4:32:19 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:
>
>> Shimano make an inline cable adjuster with quick release 
>> https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ultegra-r8000/SM-CB90.html
>>
>> Alternatively cable splitters would work, but they would not allow tool 
>> free wheel removal  
>> https://www.ticycles.com/components/da-vinci-cable-splitters
>>
>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>
>> On Friday, March 17, 2023 at 2:12:27 PM UTC-6 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> The brakes on my wife's Betty Foy are driving me nuts.  This is a stock 
>>> bike, in fact it was RBWs sales bike and it came with Bosco bars, Techtro 
>>> 559 side pull clippers and Shimano levers. There is no QR on the levers and 
>>> a minimal one on the calipers This is a very poor combination as I can only 
>>> get an inflated 38mm tire  off and on, while the frame can handle a 42mm 
>>> tire.  I wonder what GP was thinking when he made this choice.
>>>
>>> Has anyone found a work around to improve this situation?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Pedal Question

[Greg J]

SPDs are ubiquitous, and you can find them for nearly free (for example, I 
have a couple of old but functional sets that I can send at cost, but I 
have no spare cleats).  If you like them generally, but find that they are 
lacking in some respect, then you can try the variations on the theme 
(eggbeaters, speedplay, road pedals, time, etc.), which all try to address 
some aspect of the clipless systems (float, platform size, weight, release 
mechanism, etc.).  Or if you decide that they're not worth the hype, then 
there you go.

Greg
Oakland CA

On Wednesday, February 22, 2023 at 7:19:57 PM UTC-8 Philip Williamson wrote:

> I'm also Team Platform, and would recommend SPDs for a beginner into the 
> clipless pedal world. 
> I did ride Eggbeaters for several years, and made skateboard pedal decks 
> to turn them into platforms. It turned out I never ever rode without them, 
> so I just bought some platform pedals and donated or sold my eggbeaters. 
> One set of skatedecks is hanging above my tool bench as a "hey I did that," 
> but I'm not interested in riding clipless. If my riding changes to big 
> jumps offroad, I'd revisit SPDs. 
>
> Philip 
> Sonoma County, Calif 
>
> On Sunday, February 19, 2023 at 10:05:09 PM UTC-8 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>
>> Platforms > clipless IMO. I’ve ridden both and like less hassle and fewer 
>> impediments to hopping on a bike. Should you not wish to listen to a 
>> stranger on the Internet and wish to go full steam ahead, I suggest SPDs 
>> especially since, were one to break out on the road, replacement cleats or 
>> screws are readily available at most LBSs. Many other clipless pedal 
>> options are not. 
>>
>> On Sunday, February 19, 2023 at 11:46:09 AM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>>
>>> I agree with Ted, clipless pedals are not useful for most of the riding 
>>> I do. That riding consists of commuting, trail riding, long and fast-ish 
>>> road rides, and both paved and off-road touring. The only time I still use 
>>> clipless pedals is for racing (which I do just a little of); platforms are 
>>> much better the rest of the time. Maybe I don't care about foot attachment 
>>> as much as some people, considering that I'm also a telemark skier, but I 
>>> think having your foot solidly attached is overrated. I think a lot of the 
>>> time people do it because they feel like they have to or it's what everyone 
>>> else is doing, even when there's not a good reason to- that was me for 
>>> years before I realized how good flat pedals are. Getting a nice pair of 
>>> pedals helped too- I got a good deal on some thin Crank Brothers platforms 
>>> with good spikes and nice bearings and they made me like flat pedals a lot 
>>> more.
>>>
>>> That being said, if you really want to try clipless pedals, I recommend 
>>> Time ATACs. They're the only clipless pedals I've used for the last few 
>>> years after moving away from SPDs and (eewww) Look road pedals, and I like 
>>> them for the float and the reasonably supportive pedal body as well as for 
>>> their performance in muddy conditions (I do race some cyclocross). SPDs 
>>> work fine too though, and maybe cheaper and easier to find.
>>>
>>> Josiah Anderson
>>> Missoula, MT
>>>
>>> Le dim. 19 févr. 2023 à 07:22, Ted Durant  a écrit :
>>>
 On Saturday, February 18, 2023 at 9:17:48 AM UTC-5 Dick Pahle wrote:
 trust  its ok to ask for product recomendation here. been riding with 
 toe clips forever and ready to switch to clipless. anyone here have 
 thoughts about a good pedal for a beginner. something easy to get in and 
 out of. i get indegestion looking at all the different kinds/styles/types. 

 Okay, I'll be the first to say it ... don't bother! I use Crank 
 Brothers eggbeater pedals on most of my bikes, and I'm about to put some 
 flat pedals on one of my regulars and do a fair amount of riding without 
 bindings to see if I really still want them. I started going down the 
 no-binding path a while ago, but much of my riding was commuting and I 
 actually liked bindings for being able to accelerate quickly in traffic. 
 If 
 I was doing any group riding, I'd still want them, and for that reason 
 even 
 if I ditch the eggbeaters for most of my bikes, I will still keep them on 
 my "group ride" bike (my Riv Road). 

 That said, I've been very happy with eggbeaters because 1) they're 
 super easy entry and exit (as long as you replace the cleats regularly), 
 2) 
 low profile cleats with lots of walkable shoe options, 3)there's no 
 tension 
 adjustment required and the shoe-cleat-pedal interface is secure as long 
 as 
 you replace the cleats regularly and use shims as needed, 4) choice of 
 fixed or floating cleats (I prefer fixed), 5) no extra weight. You do want 
 shoes with fairly stiff soles, because the pedal itself offers no support. 
 On the down side, they don't have a flat/binding two-sided option, 

[RBW] Re: Roller-Cam brakes

[Greg J]

James, if the picture you attached is the actual bike you're looking at, 
those are the nice ones.  You should have no issues with those brakes. 
 They work great, they take normal brake shoes, and there are plenty enough 
of them for spare parts (although they're pretty well built).  Good luck!

Greg

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 9:54:22 AM UTC-8 iamkeith wrote:

> Those can be great brakes.  You're fortunate that the posts are located on 
> the seat stays. Most often they are on the bottom of the chainstays and are 
> difficult to work on just because of lack of space.  There are two slightly 
> different versions of those sun tour brakes, with one generally being 
> considered superior.  I don't know enough to identify which yours is  but 
> there's info out there.  There are also U-brakes that look like giant 
> frame-mount center-pull caliper brakes, which use the same mounting 
> standard, but I don't know that they're an improvement at all.  They're 
> bulky and have limited clearance.  There are also super sought-after roller 
> cams made by WTB/Charlie Cunningham/DKG machine, but they'd be a couple 
> thousand dollars each  IF you could even find them.  The sun tours are a 
> licensed version of those, and are pretty neat for a runabout hobby bike.
>
> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 10:39:26 AM UTC-7 James wrote:
>
>> This isn't a Rivendell related question, and for that I apologize, but 
>> ya'll are the most bike-savvy people I "know".  I see a lot of value in a 
>> cheap, knock-around, lock-up-anywhere bike, so I have my eyes on a local 
>> Schwinn High Sierra.  It has roller-cam brakes and I have know experience 
>> with those.  What is yawls experience with roller-cam breaks and due to the 
>> placement of the mounts on the frame, what other brakes may be compatible? 
>>  The mounts seem higher on the frame than cantilever mounts.  Would center 
>> or side-pull brakes work?  What other options do I have?  Thank you
>>
>> Picture: https://imgur.com/0IqjRl1
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: The do-it-all Rivendell of choice

[Greg J]

I've only ridden 3 Rivendells, all of them pre-2003 models, so I don't know 
what I'm missing on the newer models with the relaxed geo and long chain 
stays.  But I have yet to find any faults* with the Waterford A/R that I 
have, so I guess that would be the one for me!  26" wheels, triple crank, 
bar end shifters, and (currently) drop bars.

*Sometimes I wish it were lighter, but that would mean that it would be 
less versatile for touring, off-road, etc., so I'll take it as is.  

Greg

On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 1:35:25 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The threads on Platypus versus [name] and using versus "saving" your 
> Rivendell raises an interesting if (fortunately!) academic question: if you 
> could have only 1 Rivendell as your only bicycle, and that Rivendell had to 
> serve all purposes -- fast pavement, commuting, errand loads, at least 
> light dirt and gravel: what model would you choose and how would you build 
> and equip it?
>
> I'm fortunate to have a bike for each of my purposes, except a 
> theft-be-damned but fun to ride grocery beater, which I hope to add to the 
> collection*, but if I had to choose just 1 and that a Riv, it would be my 
> gofast with a second set of wheels shod with 42 mm Naches Passes (which fit 
> with room to spare under the front normal reach single pivot) but not bolt 
> anything else to the Riv. Lights: I have an excellent B Ixon IQ Premium 
> which puts out at least as much brightness and has a nicer beam pattern 
> than my Edeluxe I, and Cateye clamps are cheap and easy to find. There are 
> all sorts of bright, strap-on blinkies for the rear. I'd rig up a QR for my 
> Saddlesack Medium and attach it with the Nitto standoff only as needed, and 
> augment it with a courier bag in 1 of 3 sizes. I'd get some clip-on, easy 
> on/off fenders, shorties if need be -- hell, this is New Mexico. 
>
> Wheels: Actually, I might do as I did decades ago when I tried to make a 
> mountain bike do triple duty with 3 wheelsets: gofast with 23 mm tires and 
> 12-19 (7-sp) cassette, commuting with 35 mm tires with 13-21, and off road 
> with knobbies and 14-28. The Phil fixed/fixed with Elk Pass would keep the 
> 17/19 Dingle and the 28 mm Elk Passes, but I'd have another Elk Pass rear 
> for the TC fixed hub with 17 t cog for 76" direct and 66" underdrive; and 
> then I'd have a third wheeset for Naches Passes with the fixed TF hub with 
> a 19 t cog and the Naches Passes for 70" and 52"; good pavement-to-moderate 
> dirt ratios.
>
> Of course, I'd have to overcome the scruple of keeping this bike pristine 
>  Funny, I usually take a brief detour for a mile or  mile-and-a-half 
> along a very busy 6-lane when I ride North from my house because the direct 
> route is dusty, sandy crusher fine. Would have to strenuously overcome that 
> vice.
>
> * Actually, one reason for this 5th beater bike would be just the fun of 
> building up a bike that rides nice and meets my gearing and handling 
> preferences at the lowest possible price.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Touring Front, Neo-Retro Back?

[Greg J]

None of your 7 considerations calls for switching your brakes.  If you're 
satisfied with the v-brakes you currently have, don't change them.  

To switch them out, depending on what you currently have, you may need new 
levers, new cables/housing, new cantis, front cable stop, lots of fiddling 
around to dial them in, and at the end of the day likely won't have any 
better-functioning brakes.  The only real benefit that *some* canti brakes 
could have over v-brakes is better modulation, but that depends on so 
much---the specific parts, set up, and your sensitivity to such things. 
 Don't forget that v-brakes were considered an improvement over cantis 
because they're easier to set up and are generally more powerful.

Of course, if you have the time/parts/money, go for it!  

Greg

On Saturday, October 29, 2022 at 4:09:17 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone, based on the brake arrangement, I have a question.
>
> But first, some background: I’m making some changes/upgrades so my bike 
> will be better equipped for day rides, multi-day trips, and light touring.
>
> Here are some of the considerations:
>
>1. Bike is a Joe Appaloosa
>2. Wheels will be Atlas 700c with Panaracer Gravel Kings.
>3. My rides are almost all on asphalt or concrete with a few dirt 
>trails or fire roads.
>4. Bike currently has V-brakes.
>5. I am planning to add a rear rack with panniers, no front rack.
>6. I weigh about 165. 
>7. I’ll be carrying some gear but I won’t be overloading the bike.
>
>
> *Question: Should I switch to cantilevers, or keep the existing V-brakes? *
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale, Suntour Superbe brakes

[Greg J]

First of all, the OP says these are nutted Superbe 47-57mm brakes with 
Mathousers.  Not superbe pros.  
Second, the hidden spring Superbe Pros are very nice brakes, 
notwithstanding that one or more people may not have found them to be 
perfect.  
Third, dual pivots may be superior in some aspects, but these Superbe 
brakes do not lack for anything.



On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 1:41:34 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Bro that's a weird place to go on someone's FS posting. 
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 1:10:13 PM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> If these are the superbe pro sidepull calipers they are junk. I had a 
>> pair and they could never stay centered. Full analysis here: 
>> http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-023/000.html
>>
>> Dual pivots of almost any make are superior. Other sidepulls exist that 
>> don't have these problems.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:38:11 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Up for sale is a very clean pair of Suntour Superbe brake calipers. 
>>> Front and rear, nutted 47-57mm reach with Mathhauser pads. 
>>> $85 plus shipping. 
>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>
>>> Thank you 
>>> Ray
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Homers and road touring

[Greg J]

I would not hesitate to tour on the Sam, although I suppose it depends on 
what you're carrying and how long you're going for.  I've toured on a 
Rambouillet and a Road Standard with a full set of panniers on weeklong 
trips, and it was fine.  You say "road touring," so I assume you're not 
planning on carrying a week's worth of food, etc. With a reasonable load, 
the Sam should be fine - try it and report back!

On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 7:22:03 PM UTC-7 John Hawrylak wrote:

> The AHH uses Oversized (OS) tubing (1-1/8" TT & 1-1/4" DT), which is more 
> rigid than Standard (Std) tubing (1" TT & 1-1/8" DT) which most of the 
> frames discussed are.  The extra 1/8" increased diameter results in a OS 
> tube having about the same rigidity as a Std tube which is thicker by 
> 0.2mm.   
>
> It seems the AHH uses OS tubes with butting of 0.8mm x 0.5mm x 0.8mm, 
> which is fairly thin tubing.   Grant never stated what tubing thickness he 
> uses.  This would be have the same rigidity as s Std tube of 1.0mm x 0.7mm 
> x 1.0mm.IF the AHH tubing is thicker than what I stated, THEN it the 
> equivalent rigid Std tube would be thicker
>
>   My 1988 Schwinn Voyaguer (a full touring frame) uses Std Columbus Tenax 
> tubing which by everything I can find has a 1" TT of 0.9mm x 0.7mm x 0.9mm 
> and a 1-1/8" DT of 1.0mm x 0.7mm x 1.0mm.   So a AHH has tubing which is as 
> rigid as the 88 Voyageur which was sold as full touring bike.  If the AHH 
> tube is thicker than 8-5-8, then it is even more rigid than the 88 Voyaguer.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 12:12:05 PM UTC-4 Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>
>> I have a question or the group.  I ride a Homer and considering using it 
>> for road touring.  Since its not by definition a touring Rivendell, is 
>> loaded touring pushing the envelope for this bike?
>>
>> thanks, 
>> Lyman ATX
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tange / IRD Needle Bearing Headset

[Greg J]

Thanks, Laing.  That seems to be the consensus here.  Really appreciate 
everyone's help!

On Monday, September 5, 2022 at 8:22:24 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> I have these on almost all of my bikes. The cups that are installed in the 
> frame are zinc plated aluminum. The steel race goes inside the cups - 
> aluminum will not hold up.
> From the bottom:
> Fork - Steel fork crown race - roller bearings - steel race - lower cup - 
> frame.
>
> [image: IRD headset.JPG]
>
> Laing
>
> On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 8:42:03 PM UTC-4 Greg J wrote:
>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> Sorry about the cross-post from the iBob list.  But since this is going 
>> on my 96 A/R, and Riv sells this (or similar) headset:
>>
>> I am installing the Tange/IRD headset with the needle bearing in the 
>> bottom cup.  I am wondering about the order of the steel race insert (I 
>> only have one, although I know that in the Stronglight headsets, there are 
>> 2 per needle bearing).
>>
>> Does it go:   
>> (1) Bottom cup - steel race - needle bearings - base plate, or 
>> (2) Bottom cup - needle bearings - steel race - base plate ?
>>
>> Or did I lose one steel race, which should be on both sides of the needle 
>> bearing?
>>
>> thanks,
>> Greg
>> Oakland, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Tange / IRD Needle Bearing Headset

[Greg J]

Hi folks,

Sorry about the cross-post from the iBob list.  But since this is going on 
my 96 A/R, and Riv sells this (or similar) headset:

I am installing the Tange/IRD headset with the needle bearing in the bottom 
cup.  I am wondering about the order of the steel race insert (I only have 
one, although I know that in the Stronglight headsets, there are 2 per 
needle bearing).

Does it go:   
(1) Bottom cup - steel race - needle bearings - base plate, or 
(2) Bottom cup - needle bearings - steel race - base plate ?

Or did I lose one steel race, which should be on both sides of the needle 
bearing?

thanks,
Greg
Oakland, CA

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[RBW] Re: Photos and details of my 1995 Riv Road Standard build

[Greg J]

Congrats, Adriana!  Beautiful color on that bike, and a nice sensible 
build!  

best, Greg/Oakland

On Wednesday, May 4, 2022 at 5:15:14 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:

> Oh...I'm glad it worked out for you and you like the bike! I love the 
> splash of yellow; it's so cheerful. Matches the buttery smooth ride of 
> those early Rivendells 
>
> Hope you have many happy miles on it. 
>
> On Tuesday, May 3, 2022 at 7:52:32 PM UTC-5 Adrianna T wrote:
>
>> Hi!
>>
>> Back in January I came across a custom Riv Road Standard that I didn't 
>> know anything about, other than that it was being sold by Joe Breeze (to 
>> raise funds for his bicycling museum).
>>
>> A bunch of you here helped to spec it out and that helped me feel 
>> confident enough to buy it.
>>
>> After several months, I finally have a bike!
>>
>> (The delay was largely around waiting for parts to show up, with this 
>> supply chain and all).
>>
>> Here's what I ended up with. Photos attached.
>>
>> - Nitto Randonneur 25.4 400mm
>> - Gran Compe 202 Non Aero Brake Levers, Drilled
>> - Nitto Fillet FacePlater Quill stem
>> - Dia-Compe ENE Down Tube Shifters
>> - Rene Herse Double Crank 46-30 - 171mm
>> - MKS Monarch pedals
>> - Velo Orange 32 hole silver front and rear hubs
>> Velocity A32 32 hole polished rims 
>> - Shimano 105
>> - Microshift 11-36
>> - 26″ x 1.25″ Elk Pass Tires
>> - Dura Ace 
>>
>> Thanks to Scenic Routes (community bike center in San Francisco), and 
>> this community here, for the input and advice. It rides like a dream and I 
>> am really, really happy with it.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Headsets and Chains

[Greg J]

I am also thinking hard about which bike is appropriate for this headset. 
 The closest I have to that era MTB is an Ibis SS, but I'm thinking maybe 
the '81 Ritchey sport-touring or the Riv Wford All-Rounder?

Greg

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 3:26:17 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> I'm going to put the headset in a place of high honor on my new 
> forthcoming Nobilette Roadeo.  In honor of Charlie I'm going to execute two 
> maker projects:
>
> 1. I'm going to make a little plastic shadowbox to display the postcard of 
> Jacquie and Charlie, along with the autographed headset box.  I'll hang 
> that on my wall.
> 2. But wait, Bill, your new Roadeo is going to be 1" threadless!  Yup!  In 
> my community college machine shop class, I'm going to convert this threaded 
> headset into a threadless headset.  How the heck are you gonna pull of that 
> craziness?!?!  Wait and see!
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 6:46:16 AM UTC-7 Mitch Browne wrote:
>
>> Received my NIB headset and chain yesterday.  Nice picture card of 
>> Jacquie and Charlie inside box.
>>
>> Mitch
>> San Luis Obispo, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 6:02:26 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>>
>>> I got a headset coming my way. I don't even know what it's for. I'm 
>>> turning 50 next month, maybe I'll incorporate it into a bike present for 
>>> myself!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 27, 2022 at 12:03 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
 This was such an obvious purchase.  I sat back to be polite and let all 
 the smart money buy them up.  When I emailed Jacquie she still had 
 headsets 
 to sell.  So I bought a headset and a chain.  I'll sit back again to let 
 the smart money buy what remains, but after my politeness runs out, I 
 might 
 go back and buy more.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Friday, April 22, 2022 at 9:38:08 PM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:

> Hi -
>
> Posting this for a couple friends. Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie 
> Phelan have an ample store of spare parts. Today, we offer you WTB 
> headsets 
> and Sachs/Sedis chains. Please send mail directly to Jacquie: Jacquie 
> at batnet.com. Payment should be via paypal using Jacquie's email 
> address. Friends and family only please. Please do not send any money 
> until 
> Jacquie confirms your purchase.
>
> About the headsets... These are WTB Grease Guard headsets. Grease 
> Guard was a "thing" back in the early days of mountain biking. Charlie 
> created Grease Guard and SunTour licensed it. Wilderness Trail Bikes 
> (WTB) 
> is the company Charlie founded and was later forced out of. These are 1" 
> threaded headsets, and are new-in-box. Each box is personally signed by 
> Charlie, so you not only get a great headset - you get a piece of history 
> and a collector's item. The headsets are priced at $75 plus shipping via 
> USPS.
>
> About the chains... These are Sachs/Sedis 6/7/8 speed chains. They 
> measure 57 inches long and therefore have 114 links each. The chains are 
> new and unused. You can buy a less expensive chain elsewhere - or you can 
> buy one of these Sachs/Sedis chains, get a piece of history and help out 
> Jacquie and Charlie. The chains are priced at $40 each plus shipping via 
> USPS.
>
> Link for photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMZGGcXysNkzkBBR7
>
> Thanks for looking,
>
>
> Corwin
>
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 .

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Headsets and Chains

[Greg J]

Thanks for bringing this to the top, Bill.  I also ordered a set yesterday. 
 

Greg 
Oakland, CA

On Thursday, April 28, 2022 at 6:46:16 AM UTC-7 Mitch Browne wrote:

> Received my NIB headset and chain yesterday.  Nice picture card of Jacquie 
> and Charlie inside box.
>
> Mitch
> San Luis Obispo, CA
>
> On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 6:02:26 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> I got a headset coming my way. I don't even know what it's for. I'm 
>> turning 50 next month, maybe I'll incorporate it into a bike present for 
>> myself!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 27, 2022 at 12:03 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>
>>> This was such an obvious purchase.  I sat back to be polite and let all 
>>> the smart money buy them up.  When I emailed Jacquie she still had headsets 
>>> to sell.  So I bought a headset and a chain.  I'll sit back again to let 
>>> the smart money buy what remains, but after my politeness runs out, I might 
>>> go back and buy more.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Friday, April 22, 2022 at 9:38:08 PM UTC-7 Corwin wrote:
>>>
 Hi -

 Posting this for a couple friends. Charlie Cunningham and Jacquie 
 Phelan have an ample store of spare parts. Today, we offer you WTB 
 headsets 
 and Sachs/Sedis chains. Please send mail directly to Jacquie: Jacquie 
 at batnet.com. Payment should be via paypal using Jacquie's email 
 address. Friends and family only please. Please do not send any money 
 until 
 Jacquie confirms your purchase.

 About the headsets... These are WTB Grease Guard headsets. Grease Guard 
 was a "thing" back in the early days of mountain biking. Charlie created 
 Grease Guard and SunTour licensed it. Wilderness Trail Bikes (WTB) is the 
 company Charlie founded and was later forced out of. These are 1" threaded 
 headsets, and are new-in-box. Each box is personally signed by Charlie, so 
 you not only get a great headset - you get a piece of history and a 
 collector's item. The headsets are priced at $75 plus shipping via USPS.

 About the chains... These are Sachs/Sedis 6/7/8 speed chains. They 
 measure 57 inches long and therefore have 114 links each. The chains are 
 new and unused. You can buy a less expensive chain elsewhere - or you can 
 buy one of these Sachs/Sedis chains, get a piece of history and help out 
 Jacquie and Charlie. The chains are priced at $40 each plus shipping via 
 USPS.

 Link for photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/FMZGGcXysNkzkBBR7

 Thanks for looking,


 Corwin

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Legolas Rackless Dirt Rando build

[Greg J]

Looks great, Nikko!  A perfect, sensible build - and the wheel set looks 
familiar :)

See you up in the hills!
Greg

On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 7:30:08 PM UTC-8 Andrew Letton wrote:

> A stunner!
> I'm curious about your chainring clocking... Is there a reason the big 
> ring is oriented the way it is? Isn't the peg on the outside of the ring 
> supposed to be at the crankarm, to prevent a dropped chain from getting 
> wedged down in between the arm and ring?
> cheers,
> Andrew in Sydney
>
> On Sunday, February 13, 2022, 04:48:52 PM GMT+11, Nikko Mendoza <
> nikkog...@gmail.com> wrote: 
>
>
> Hey y’all,
>
> Got this Legolas from a list member here. I had it built very similarly to 
> the previous owner initially, but made some small changes recently to 
> differentiate it and I’m really happy with it. 
>
> I plan for this to be my gravel bike (loose segments are hard still). But 
> I can throw the matching 38mm Barlow Pass tire on the front and have a 
> plush rackless road rando rig. I have a bag coming in for that exact 
> purpose. 
>
> Here it is.
> Album here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/M7EahK87ixkGdN1D7
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Updates on, and further questions regarding the Riv Road Standard 1995

[Greg J]

I think the size is in the ballpark, and there's some room for adjustment 
once you've built it up.  It may be a hair on the small size (especially 
for the Riv aesthetic of fistful of seat post), but you can probably make 
it work.  Sorry to hear about your stolen bike, but if you have the 
geometry for that model, then you'd have a basis for comparison.

On the top tube issue, road bikes (like this one) are designed for use with 
drop bars, so they tend to have shorter top tubes than if designed for flat 
bars.  That said, this should be a wash for you since you say you have a 
short torso.  

Good luck, and let us know what you decide!

On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 1:42:21 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I see you already know the Elk Pass tires.
>
> Here's Natsuko's bike in pass hunter format.
>
> On Thu, Jan 27, 2022 at 2:12 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Hi Adrianna, 
>>
>> This is my comment from your original thread:
>>
>> I've been staring at that frame for weeks, it's gorgeous! At 5'-6"-ish 
>> it's too small for me, I'll bet a 50 × 52cm would be perfect for you, 
>> especially with drops or Moustache/Albastache bars. 
>>
>> My guess - cuz that's all we can do here without you being able to size 
>> it with wheels and bars on, which I agree is frustrating - is the reach 
>> would be on the cramped side with flat bars. A super long stem might solve 
>> that though. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 12:52:51 PM UTC-8 Adrianna T wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Joe, Greg, thanks for your thoughts.
>>>
>>> The main thing is that I'm having trouble understanding whether this is 
>>> too small, or just right for me (I'm 5'5, I would say short torso and 
>>> reach, and regular legs). That's what I hope someone on this group can help 
>>> me understand. I understand it's not an exact science, but in this case I 
>>> don't even know if I'm in the right wheel house. 
>>>
>>> Types of rides I like: 
>>>
>>> - bikepacking
>>> - mostly road with 20% gravel
>>>
>>> I currently ride a modern gravel bike but that just got stolen.
>>>
>>> If this is *possibly* the right size for me, I will probably set it up 
>>> with flat bars and 26" by 1.25" Elk Pass tires. It'll be a long term 
>>> project to get this set up as a 'forever bike', a bike that I'd spend time 
>>> building, and hopefully ride for a long time. I am fine with the price of 
>>> the frame, given the cause and rarity. 
>>>
>>> But I don't know at all whether or not it's even possible. I went to see 
>>> it yesterday and stood over it, but without anything attached to it, that 
>>> felt hard to gauge.
>>>
>>> With the current info above, what do you all think?  
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 12:41:38 PM UTC-8 Greg J wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Adrianna - what do you want to know from the group?  If it's whether 
>>>> you should buy it or not, that's really for you to decide, but -- as 
>>>> mentioned before -- (1) the price is on the high end (but it's for a good 
>>>> cause and also, these don't come around often, especially in this size); 
>>>> (2) it's a nice frame that probably rides very well.  Not the lightest 
>>>> bike, and limited tire selection (there are not as many high-end road 
>>>> tires 
>>>> for 26 x 1.5 as for 700c), but I'm sure it handles well in a neutral way.  
>>>> Plenty versatile for all types of road riding and some trails.
>>>>
>>>> I'm pretty sure you can get the year from the serial number (from the 
>>>> Waterford site), if that matters.
>>>>
>>>> But really, what are you looking for?  What type of rides will you use 
>>>> this for?  What do you currently ride?  How will you build it up?  And 
>>>> what 
>>>> do you like about it?
>>>>
>>>> Greg
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 11:45:13 AM UTC-8 Adrianna T wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi everyone,
>>>>>
>>>>> I went to see Joe B at the Marin Museum of Bicycling to see if I want 
>>>>> the Riv Road Standard bike frame.
>>>>>
>>>>> Details were somewhat unclear and as this group pointed out, it's hard 
>>>>> to tell size and fit when the bike is not built up.
>>>>>
>>>>> So further details are posted her (on my personal page):
>>>>>
>>>>>
&g

[RBW] Re: Updates on, and further questions regarding the Riv Road Standard 1995

[Greg J]

Hi Adrianna - what do you want to know from the group?  If it's whether you 
should buy it or not, that's really for you to decide, but -- as mentioned 
before -- (1) the price is on the high end (but it's for a good cause and 
also, these don't come around often, especially in this size); (2) it's a 
nice frame that probably rides very well.  Not the lightest bike, and 
limited tire selection (there are not as many high-end road tires for 26 x 
1.5 as for 700c), but I'm sure it handles well in a neutral way.  Plenty 
versatile for all types of road riding and some trails.

I'm pretty sure you can get the year from the serial number (from the 
Waterford site), if that matters.

But really, what are you looking for?  What type of rides will you use this 
for?  What do you currently ride?  How will you build it up?  And what do 
you like about it?

Greg

On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 11:45:13 AM UTC-8 Adrianna T wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I went to see Joe B at the Marin Museum of Bicycling to see if I want the 
> Riv Road Standard bike frame.
>
> Details were somewhat unclear and as this group pointed out, it's hard to 
> tell size and fit when the bike is not built up.
>
> So further details are posted her (on my personal page):
>
> https://skinnylatte.notion.site/Riv-Bike-e56ddf417ee54e788e3a445eafc46f44
>
> Joe also called Grant and provided this update:
>
> " After talking with Grant, and trying a few more wheels, it appears the 
> frameset is for 26x1.4" wheels (MTB, 559 bead seat size). So tires would be 
> 35mm max, 32mm more like it. "Pre-1999 for sure," says Grant."
>
> My main question is: I previously thought this might be *just nice*, now I 
> am not so sure.
>
> Anyone see anything interesting about the new information here? I still 
> want it very badly of course, and that's maybe why I can't be objective 
> about it ;/
>

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[RBW] Re: Question about the 1995 Waterford Road standard

[Greg J]

My 1996 Riv catalog says that the 50cm (c-t) is built for 26" wheels. 4.5cm 
drop.  The rear spacing is listed at 129, "which can be squeezed or spread 
slight to fit various hubs."

"50 women's" has a tt of 50.5cm, and "50 men's" has 52.5cm.  So I would 
guess this one is 50cm men's.  Not that that makes any difference. 

@Adriana, it's hard to guess the fit - there are so many factors to 
consider.  Personally, I'd say this is on the smaller end of what fits for 
you, but probably will fit fine.  5'-5" would usually put you at about a 
52cm seat tube (center-top) and 53.5cm top tube.  Because this is a 
frameset only, you'll be taking a bit of a risk I think, without being able 
to ride it.

I had one of these a while back (54cm size), and it was a really nice 
riding bike.  I sold it because I wanted to fit even larger tires.

Greg

On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 6:01:18 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> It depends on when the frame was built, it could be several years away 
> from when that spec sheet was published. The ad says it's measured C-to-T 
> so I believe it's a real 50cm frame, and my (vague) memory of that time is 
> it came with 26" wheels. The Rambouillet in 50 and 52cm also used the 
> smaller wheels. 
>
>
>
> On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 5:29:26 AM UTC-8 Ryan wrote:
>
>> But in the spec sheet Jim attached, the smallest size is 52cm. I guess it 
>> depends on how Rivendell  measures .CC or CT?  Rear spacing is 130 and 
>> wheel size is 700 c according to the Riv spec.
>>
>> Nice frame...grab it if it fits!
>>
>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 7:20:20 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I've been staring at that frame for weeks, it's gorgeous! At 5'-6"-ish 
>>> it's too small for me, I'll bet a 50 × 52cm would be perfect for you, 
>>> especially with drops or Moustache/Albastache bars. 
>>>
>>> The listing says 125 rear spacing but I'm pretty sure all Riv Roads werr 
>>> 130. Check for wheel size, I think the 50cm frames used 26" like mountain 
>>> bikes. 
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 4:49:47 PM UTC-8 Adrianna T wrote:
>>>
 Hi folks,

 I saw this ad and I am very tempted: 
 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/d/fairfax-wow-beautiful-1995-rivendell/7429374409.html

 I'm going to see it next week to decide.

 1. I am 5' 5 female, any ideas on whether this will fit me? 

 2. This will be my first vintage bike, and I am so excited! Any other 
 tips or advice on this particular frame? 

 -Adrianna

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Greg J]

Like any screw, it will loosen over time, but for the most part, it should 
be set and forget for a good long time.  Especially if you use locktite or 
beeswax on the threads.  (Although I have had one set of screws and a frame 
where it would loosen frequently, which I attribute to bigger tolerances 
between the frame threads and the shifter screws, but that isn't the case 
here since you're using modern parts.)

On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:52:44 AM UTC-8 adamc...@gmail.com wrote:

> D-ring, yes. I'll give it a shot, thanks for the tip. This is my first 
> time using friction shifting on a bicycle so it's all new to me!
>
> Does that d-ring / tension tend to need regular attention or does it just 
> need to be dialed initially and then get on with it and forget about it?
>
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 11:22:33 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:
>
>> From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt, 
>> which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you 
>> want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a 
>> feel for, not too tight, not too loose. 
>>
>> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. 
>>> Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most 
>>> of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was 
>>> a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.
>>>
>>> Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear 
>>> shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of 
>>> the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next 
>>> largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and 
>>> would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one 
>>> cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that 
>>> would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to 
>>> the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out 
>>> rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each 
>>> time.
>>>
>>> I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like 
>>> ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its 
>>> own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all 
>>> the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver 
>>> shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some 
>>> things).
>>>
>>> I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective 
>>> knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or tips?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Road serial number help

[Greg J]

I don't have my Riv Readers any more, but the "M" may represent a 
match-built AR.  Or a Riv custom builder (JS, RS, etc.), but I can't think 
of anyone with an "M" initial.
That's not a Waterford serial number.

On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 9:53:37 AM UTC-7 aidan...@gmail.com wrote:

> Unfortunately, I am not a historian. But I can add data. Not that it helps 
> terribly. I have a Waterford build Rivendell that I ordered as soon as 
> Rivendell was set to take orders and received in 1995. Its serial is 
> K95017. Since it looks rather different, I am guessing that the sequencing 
> changed at some point relatively early. I don't have Rivendell on the other 
> side of the BB shell, but Everest on the same side.
>
> Good luck with the archival research =)
>
> On Monday, June 14, 2021 at 4:21:38 AM UTC+2 bliss...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Can’t remember the pedigree of my Rivendell Road.  I purchased it on EBay 
>> close to 20 years ago from a gentleman who had two for sale, one an orange 
>> Road, which I bought, and another, a beautiful green All-Rounder.  Should 
>> have bought them both, talk about Sophie’s choice!  Was a bit of a sad 
>> story, the original owner had ordered these two and had never ridden them 
>> due to declining health.
>>   So, serial number is R72M, with RIVENDELL on the other side of the BB 
>> shell.  Any historians able to fill me in?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Seat bag security

[Greg J]

On my Bart bike (which I leave at the station all day during non-covid 
times), I loop a thin braided steel cable (like 2-3mm diameter, ~10" long) 
through the bag and the seatpost binder bolt.  These were typically used to 
theft-deter quick release seat posts.  On at least a couple of occasions, I 
found my bag (just a cheap Jannd, but still, I don't want it stolen) 
hanging off the bike but still attached because the thief couldn't just 
walk off with it.  Of course, I don't leave anything valuable in the bag, 
and you could pretty easily cut through the cable if you were determined.

Greg

On Monday, May 24, 2021 at 7:16:09 AM UTC-7 zem...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've always wanted to attach a fancy Sackville bag to my bike, but I live 
> in Toronto where stuff gets stolen off your bike all the time. So I've 
> resigned myself to only using bike parts I can bolt down.
>
> Anyone else deal with this? Any suggestions for locking down or otherwise 
> securing seat bags? 
>
> Cheers!
>
> Zack
> Toronto, Canada
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cyclists Robbed of Bikes in Berkeley Hills

[Greg J]

That's really a depressing state of affairs.  These are my backyard rides, 
too.

Greg Jung

On Friday, April 2, 2021 at 10:38:32 AM UTC-7 John Phillips wrote:

>Just a heads up to riders who frequent Grizzly Peak Road. Article in 
> Berkeleyside doesn't say what kinds of bikes, if any, are being targeted:
>
>
> https://www.berkeleyside.com/2021/04/01/bike-robberies-grizzly-peak-berkeley-oakland-east-bay-hills
>
> John Phillips
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Ideas needed for offseting front rack from exposed cable

[Greg J]

I think I understand the problem.  When you install that bag, the 
back/bottom tilts against the head tube and brake cable?  If that's the 
issue, I solved a similar problem by just getting a piece of flat aluminum 
piece, 4"-5" long and maybe a 1/2" wide, bending it into a Z shape (with 90 
degree angles), and attaching it to the stem through the handlebar bolt 
(drilled a hole).  So one end (short vertical length) bolts into the stem, 
then a horizontal extension of the appropriate length to reach the bag, and 
then a vertical length that will push against the back of the bag to keep 
it vertical and off the head tube.  Hard to explain, but super simple.  

Or you can look up "handlebar extender" on amazon. This is a short length 
of handlebar attached to your handlebar with a couple of clamps.  They 
should do the trick, but is more involved that you may want.

Greg






On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 7:56:02 PM UTC-8 Roberta wrote:

> Here's the bag pic.
>
> On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 10:53:26 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Thank you John, Joe, Brian and Eric!
>>
>> I have two bags but I don't think this one is deep enough to cause a 
>> rubbing issue:  Carradice Zippered Roll,   
>> https://www.carradice.co.uk/bags/saddle-packs-sqr-bags/originals-zipped-roll 
>>  
>>
>>
>> It's this VO bag that I got from a member here that I'm concerned about. 
>>I bought it because I can use it without a decaleur.  The bag part is 
>> about 7" deep, but it could hang lower after attachment.   My other Riv is 
>> a Joe Appaloosa with V Brakes, but Joe makes a good point that I wouldn't 
>> want a bag marring the head tube.
>>
>> Eric, that's an interesting look at the item.  John H. also gave it a 
>> thumbs up for quality.
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 18, 2020 at 5:35:39 PM UTC-5 campyo...@me.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I’ll just chime in to say that the Nitto bag support is indeed very 
>>> nice. Here’s a photo of the Nitto part holding up a small (Acorn) bag on my 
>>> 1972 Cinelli:
>>>
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>>>
>>> On Nov 18, 2020, at 12:44 PM, Roberta  wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone have  suggestions for something to "offset" a front 
>>> handlebar bag from rubbing on the front exposed cable?  
>>>
>>> With John H's help, we found this 
>>> https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-f16-front-handlebar-hook-bag-supporter-bag-part-nitto--870-288-10/p
>>>  
>>> , but it's a bit pricey.  The support "shelf" is nice but not required.
>>>
>>> I'm not interested in a permanently fixed item. as I'd move it from Riv 
>>> to Riv.  Other than the price, I like this item.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Roberta
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] 1996 Riv All Rounder update

[Greg J]

Beautiful, John.  Timeless bike!  And I actually prefer the single color 
paint jobs from the earlier Rivs,  I had a light blue Road that I sold that 
was a single color.  I now have an early AR also, but it has a contrasting 
cream head tube, and I think it makes it a little foppish.

Greg 

On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:59:11 PM UTC-8, John in PDX wrote:
>
> Nice comments, thanks.  Color official name os golden olive, and that it 
> is.  Little metallic, little pearl sheen to it.  Don’t think cream would be 
> a good contrast. 
>
> Tires are older Compass.  Think they are equivalent to Natches Pass, 1.8”. 
>  Room for fenders.  Tektro 720 cantis.  Still dialing in to eliminate the 
> front squeal, the original owner had given up on that and installed 
> B-brakes, which I don’t favor.  Love the big volume supple tires.  Think 
> this bike can be a true all a rounder, city bike, light and heavy touring, 
> gravel.  Much like the Atlantis.  
>
> Original owner gave me paint chips Grant had sent to finalize the color 
> selection.  
>
> On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 3:55:55 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> The color is a very nice green that Grant seemed to like in the early 
>> days. My first All Rounder-based 26" wheel road custom was the same 
>> color (one reason why John's AR provokes such a torrent of nostalgic 
>> sentiment). I've since come to prefer Rivendell's later sage green 
>> (which goes perfectly with the cream that, stirred in with this 
>> original green, might well give you that higly preferred sage green), 
>> but this original Riv green does indeed provoke atavistic and 
>> sentimental memories, and it deserve a place on the archival palette. 
>>
>>
>> S. Greco said: "such a classic! i really get nostalgic about this era 
>> of Rivendell. any idea what this color is? it seems like it was 
>> somewhat common on rivs from this time." 
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> --- 
>> Patrick Moore 
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: Rivendell catalogs

[Greg J]

I have just about every Riv Reader and Riv catalog from about 1997 through 
whenever Riv stopped doing them regularly.  So approx 10 years' worth?

If you're interested, let me know.

Greg

On Wednesday, October 14, 2020 at 7:57:54 AM UTC-7, Eric Marth wrote:
>
> Thanks, Mike. PM sent :)
>
> On Wednesday, October 14, 2020 at 8:00:59 AM UTC-4 mike goldman wrote:
>
>> i have a spring/summer 2000 catalog and price catalog in good shape
>>  
>> mike goldman
>> rhode island
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Top News - Sponsored By Newser 
>> 
>>
>>- *DOJ Sues Over Melania Tell-All* 
>>
>>- *A Murder Hornet Escaped. Again* 
>>
>>- *Trump: 'Suburban Women, Would You Please Like Me?'* 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: A not-so-riv-ish Riv

[Greg J]

There was an article in the mid- to late-90s in a mainstream bike magazine 
(Mountainbikes?) comparing, tongue-in-cheek, a Riv All-Rounder and the 
latest Cannondale DH bike.  It had the standard Riv parts (Nitto, Brooks, 
and Suntour bar-ends), but generally similar to your bike, with the m-bars 
and saddle-bar level.  So in my mind, your AR is stylistically the 
Rivendell that I think of as representative.  And my mid 90s AR is set up 
similarly, except I have a normal drop bar.  I haven't ridden a m-bar in 
years, but I recall liking it quite a bit.  

Greg

On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 7:49:07 AM UTC-7, Tim Wilson wrote:
>
> I'm new to the bunch, but a Rivendell owner since the beginning. Thought 
> some of you might be interested in seeing my admittedly 
> no-longer-very-riv-ish '94 All Rounder.
>
> Here's the story: In 1993 I bought a Bridgestone XO-1 frame, the orange 
> one, and spent the next year fiddling with configurations: various tire 
> styles, bar shapes, shifter positions, gearing strategies, all generally in 
> pursuit of the style of riding expressed in this famous image of Pineapple 
> Bob from the catalog that year: nimble, athletic, rebellious; off the 
> beaten path, old-school vibe.
>
> [image: Image.jpg]
>
> By '94, I'd figured out what setup I liked, but also that the frame I had 
> wasn't the right size for me. Too late, though, as Bridgestone was now out 
> of business in the US. Thankfully, Grant was on to his next thing, and 
> offering the All-Rounder, which seemed intended to keep the XO thing going, 
> at the time. I ordered one, drove up from Chicago to collect it at the 
> Waterford facility, and have had it ever since.
>
> Here it is today. Not so Rivendell-like by current standards, but tons of 
> fun to ride when I'm in the mustache-bar mood. Those are heretical 
> brake-lever shifters on there. Chorus 11-spd Ergo driving a Shimano 9-spd 
> mech. "Shimergo" I've heard it called. A perfect indexing match. Unusually, 
> I do like 'stache bars (for rides shorter than a couple hours) but have 
> never warmed to bar-end shifters. The Ergo levers work quite nicely on 
> mustache bars.
>
> [image: IMG_1764.jpeg]
>
> I'm too old now to have as many bikes as I have, and this one may not make 
> the cut. Don't know yet. What does the bunch think? I hope showing a bike 
> with the stem lower than the seat doesn't get me in trouble here.
>
>
> -Tim
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

[Greg J]

that's a great looking bike!  congrats!  it is exactly what I would have 
suggested in the first place also.  Lots of older, nice riding frames with 
clearance for bigger tires.

best, Greg

On Friday, July 17, 2020 at 1:22:56 PM UTC-7, Andrew Turner wrote:
>
> First ride report for the FW Evans frame! 
> Long story short, I simply couldn't be happier with how the bike performs. 
> It rides most similar to the Roadini I had a while back with it's springy 
> front-end and general Cadillac feel but with the added bonus of lugs. I do 
> suspect it has a lower trail, though. There's a slight twitchiness unloaded 
> in the front as you see it here but that will be resolved soon. Things left 
> to do on the bike include installing the front fender, an M12 rack + 
> basket, and upgrading the tires to some Jack Brown's. There's a chance I'll 
> replace the VO Nouveau Randonneur Handlebar as well. They're nice but 
> incredibly different than what I'm used to feeling, mainly due to how sharp 
> the swoops are. 
> [image: B1.jpg]
> On Monday, June 29, 2020 at 10:47:10 PM UTC-5 Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA 
> wrote:
>
>> On Sunday, June 28, 2020 at 1:19:47 PM UTC-7, Brady Smith wrote:
>>>
>>> If you decide low trail is what you want, you might consider the Soma 
>>> Grand Randonneur. Designed by the Boulder Bicycle people, but way, way 
>>> cheaper than their All-Road.…
>>>
>>
>> …not to mention that Boulder Bicycle had kinda stopped making frames 
>>  
>> to concentrate on their vintage parts offerings.
>>
>> Andrew (the OP) is familiar with Velo-Orange, so I don't know why he 
>> didn't put the Pass Hunter on his list. It's got all his wants, except for 
>> rim brakes. OK, maybe a 35mm ø steel downtube isn't going to plane…
>>
>

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[RBW] PSA: 61cm Heron Touring on SF CL

[Greg J]

I hope this isn't against the rules here.

There's a clean, nice Heron touring on the SF CL.   My recollection is that 
the colored Heron decal is from the era after Riv sold the rights to 
someone else (maybe it was Todd K).

Anyhow, no relationship with the seller, etc.

Greg
Oakland, CA

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[RBW] Re: PSA - 1997 All-Rounder on Bay Area CL (not mine)

[Greg J]

It would fit my 15-year old son, but does a kid need such a bike?  On the 
other hand, we'd have matching AR's!

Greg in Oakland


On Tuesday, January 14, 2020 at 8:18:15 AM UTC-8, Paul Lugo wrote:
>
> Howdy ya’ll, 
>
> I’m the seller! Thanks for sharing the CL post, Kevin! I’m hoping to sell 
> it locally, but if that doesn’t work out I’ll ship it. Happy to answer any 
> questions about it. Please pass along to any interested parties. 
>
> Best, 
> Paul in Oakland 
>

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Re: [RBW] All Rounder on ebay

[Greg J]

I bought Joe's old AR.  I've been looking for one for years, and 2 of them 
show up within days!  I think this one's a good deal! esp. since I'm too 
busy with work these days to be wrenching

Greg

On Sunday, November 24, 2019 at 11:58:19 AM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hehe, I'm out, Karl. I just sold an AR I only owned a minute, am juggling 
> two Clems at the moment and my custom is at Joe Bell's shop. 

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[RBW] Re: All Rounder

[Greg J]

Congrats!  That's my holy grail Riv also -- and exactly my size!

If you want to see the original catalogs/paraphernalia from those years, 
and are in Oakland/Berkeley, stop by sometime.  I have a bunch!  

Greg/Oakland

On Thursday, September 26, 2019 at 10:17:42 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Oh, first ride report: Light, maneuverable but tracks straight and true, 
> super fun. It's a Rivendell!

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Re: [RBW] Enable my bicycle buying issues!

[Greg J]

Hi Keith,

That looks like my old Riv Road Std that I bought from Hiroshi at 
Jitensha.  Is it chamfered for a Mavic BB?  

best, Greg
Oakland, CA



On Monday, March 18, 2019 at 10:15:19 AM UTC-7, Keith Weaver wrote:
>
> Thanks to all for the great responses! I really enjoyed looking at the 
> beautiful bikes at NAHBS on Saturday, and got to look at 3 Rivs in person 
> at their (busy) booth. I took my Riv Road, and was able to ride it for 
> about 1.5 hours the next day, outside of Woodland, CA. I was with a group 
> on a large variety of bikes, and I was never the limiting factor, so the 
> bars didn't slow me down by much. That said, the position still feels a 
> little too upright on narrow, stiff tires. I think a longer stem may help 
> with that, but right now, I'm leaning toward mounting some Noodle bars I 
> already have onto the Riv, and possibly trying the Alba bars on my Disc 
> Trucker. 
>
> A closer examination of my funds seems to indicate I should pare some 
> items out of the garage before I splurge on a new frame or on a paint job 
> for the Road Standard. That said, if anyone has a ~52 cm Rambouillet, AHH, 
> or similar Riv frame that would be a good light-ish Alba bar candidate, 
> feel free to hit me up. I may be in a mood to make a financially 
> irresponsible decision!
>
> Here's a shot of my Road Standard in its current configuration, I have 
> dropped the bars a significant amount, based on group feedback from the 
> last time I posted a shot of it.
>
> Cheers,
> Keith
>
> On Sat, Mar 16, 2019 at 8:12 AM RichS > 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Keith:
>>
>> My experience with Albatross bars is similar to what others have 
>> expressed; especially Drew's observation about the role geometry plays in 
>> handlebar selection. Albatross bars felt good on my Atlantis, so with this 
>> in mind I tried Albas on my Sam (which always had Nitto Noodles). With 
>> Sam's more slack geometry and lighter feeling steering the Albas just 
>> weren't working for me (even though pictures prove there are a plenty of 
>> Sams being ridden with Albas). Now, Noodles are back on the Sam and we're 
>> both happier. 
>>
>> Side notes: 1. the versatile Atlantis feels perfect with Noodles too. 2. 
>> a new MIT Homer is enroute to me now and the bars will definitely be 
>> Noodles.
>>
>> I say go for the new Homer!
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Friday, March 15, 2019 at 8:40:03 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>> Going back over Keith's post, I think a new AHH is the way to go. It's 
>>> new and lugged and the color (with cream) is gorgeous, and the frame can be 
>>> ordered based on what bars you want to use. Also, let's see a pic of that 
>>> Road Standard! (I have an eternal weakness for original Rivs)
>>
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>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ethics Question

[Greg J]

I wouldn’t.  You think she doesn’t care or wouldn’t notice.  But something will 
be different, or something won’t work right.  And then you’ll have to explain 
why you fiddled with her bike for no good reason.  Don’t ask me how I know.  
Just don’t do it.  

Greg
Oakland 

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[RBW] Re: 3 Days of Riding in the Northern Sierras - Ride report

[Greg J]

Thanks for the ride report, Collin.  One of these days, I may do the exact 
same ride myself (I'm in Oakland also).  I've been to some of those places 
but not by bike.

best, Greg

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet purchase

[Greg J]

I agree with the other comments.  I think the Rambouillet is a tremendous 
value these days, because it is not as fashionable, with their caliper 
brakes and level top tubes. Riv seems to have evolved in their design away 
from this look.

But they can fit pretty wide tires (35-ish) and handle beautifully. And 
made by Toyo, which is a top notch framemaker.  And it looks very clean and 
well-taken-care-of.  I'd say $1000 is a steal, $1250 is a fair deal, and 
even at $1500 well worth it if you like everything on it.  The Ritchey 
cranks are low-Q and very nice.  Those Ultegra/OP wheels are (again) not 
the current fashion necessarily but are solid great wheels and fine for up 
to 35mm tires.  

Full disclosure--my wife has that same color Ramb with similar components, 
and she loves hers.   

Good luck!
Greg in Oakland

On Thursday, August 23, 2018 at 5:57:21 PM UTC-7, James Copp wrote:
>
> Hi friends,
>
> I am seeking help appraising a Rambouillet, and looking for details on the 
> frame in regards to year made and location.  A friend has offered to sell 
> me his 58cm Rambouillet before he posts it publicly.  It includes
> Nitto Stem
> Nitto Bars
> Velo Orange Seat Post
> Brooks Saddle
> New Shwalbe Tires
> Mavic Open Pro Rims
> Ultegra derailurs
> Tekrto R538 Brakes
> Its an 8 speed in the back, 3 in the front
>
> The frame has cosmetic damages
>
> What is a fair price for this ride?  I am new to the Rivendell world. 
>  Thank you.
>
> (I attached a photo)
>

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[RBW] Re: Kool Stop Thinline Rounded Nut

[Greg J]

Like Wally, I also save the hardware from old pads, and I'm pretty sure I 
have those in my parts bin.  I'll check too.  As someone else said, it's 
just a metric nut, so you could just go old school with a wrench and a nut.

Greg

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 6:50:02 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>
> Hello All
>
> I have an old set of Motolite's on my SH and the round, stainless hex nut 
> is stripped on the outside (where the hex key goes in to loosen/tighten and 
> adjust the pad.
> These nuts come on the threaded Thinline posts.   I don't need to purchase 
> new pad or posts or spacers.  Just need the stainless nut.
> Does anyone know where they can be sourced or what an appropriate 
> substitution is?
> I've written Kool Stop but thought I would check here too.
> This is what I'm referring to:
>
>
> 
>
>
> Thank you
>
> Jason
>
>

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[RBW] WTB Nitto Choco Norm and/or Dia Compe SS-6 Levers (Possible trade for Soma Portola Bars?)

[Greg J]

I have a set of SS-7s (and maybe SS-5 too), if your interested.  

Greg
Oakland, CA

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[RBW] FS: MUSA Knickers - Small

[Greg J]

I don’t know how to post pics.  PM me for pics. 

Greg

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[RBW] FS: MUSA Knickers - Small

[Greg J]

Hi all,

I have a pair of Riv’s MUSA knickers in olive green with dark brown 
gussets/pockets. Size small. These are a few years old, but I’ve worn them 
fewer than 10 times. No issues, they’re in excellent condition, if not like 
new. 

How does $35 shipped sound?

Thanks, Greg
Oakland, CA

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[RBW] Re: OT: know anything about motorcycles?

[Greg J]

Hi Drew, 

Check out the ADVRIDER forum.  It has a huge forum, but it is very 
comprehensive once you have an idea about what you want.  It sounds like 
you want to sell the 2 dirt bikes and buy a dual-sport---meaning that it 
can be registered for the road but also be rideable on dirt, like a cross 
bike.  I don't know a lot about dual sports, but that's never stopped me 
from talking.  

There are some parallels to the bicycle world, I think, in terms of the 
philosophy of motorcycles.  
   
   - There are those who are into the cool/famous bikes of the 50s/60s/70s 
   (whether Italian, British, etc.), sort of like the CR list (not making a 
   judgment here).  I don't think that's probably the most practical thing, 
   given that you have to fix/maintain them and they cost more.  These would 
   be your old Triumphs, Ducatis, Huskies, what they call "scramblers." 
   - There's definitely a BOBish contingent, who are into the practical, 
   reliable, old-technology UJB bikes.  It sounds like this is your sweet 
   spot.  I think some of these have been covered above, but I think the Honda 
   NX125 and NX250 from the 80s would be right up there, along with the Kawi 
   KLRs, Honda XLs, Suzuki DRs, and Yamaha XTs.  These you can pick up for 
   under $2500.
   - Then there are newer bikes with fuel injection.  These are really more 
   practical, but they may cost more than the 80s/90s models, and you don't 
   have the old school cred.  Think about a mid-line Trek or Specialized or 
   Giant commuter or MTB from the last 10 years--perfectly reliable, no 
   issues, but not distinctive in any way.  You can certainly find some at 
   your $3500 budget, but many will cost more.
   
A few more things to note. 

   - Dual sports tend to be taller than road bikes.  So if you're short, 
   that's something to consider.  
   - Also, motorcycles require a lot of maintenance, especially if you 
   don't ride them often.  You can't just jump on them once every 6 months.  
   You have to think about old gas, old fluids, carbs that will get gunked up, 
   batteries that require a tender, etc.  So you may consider a newer bike 
   with fuel injection (post 2000?), to alleviate at least the carb issue.  
   The newer bikes are really more usable. 
   - Unless you have a lot of time and a desire to learn MC maintenance, 
   pay more for the bike that's in better condition (tires, brakes, rubber 
   parts).  Although you can fix or replace most things, costs for parts are 
   not trivial, and you can blow through $500 in parts pretty easily to fix up 
   a bike in poor condition.  
   - Then there's the engine size.  If you're primary use is rural roads 
   and trails, probably 125cc or 250cc is enough.  The bigger the engine, the 
   heavier the bike and more power.  A smaller displacement engine is more 
   suitable for a beginner.  I'd stay away from bikes that weigh more than 400 
   lbs wet, and ideally far lighter than that.  I personally think the F650 
   and VStrom 650 recommendations are above and beyond what you want, need, or 
   can handle as a beginner.  

Finally, I can't stress enough that you should take a course, even if it's 
not required where you live.  


Greg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Is tube patching a permanent, reliable fix?

[Greg J]

Done right, I think the patch and the tube chemically become a single 
material -- I think the correct term may be "vulcanize."  So it should be 
permanent.  Now, if done in a rush, I've had the patch come off, but that's 
totally due to user error.  I typically patch a tube 3x or 4x before I 
replace with a new one.  

Greg

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[RBW] Re: OK to keep riding on this wheel, right?

[Greg J]

John,  I don't think you mentioned how many miles you have on that hub.  
But 5 years is not a long time.  I don't know much about this MI5 model.   
Unless it is designed for and sold as lightweight/unloaded type 
applications, I don't think this should happen on a MUSA, premium 
product  absent some stress-inducing event (like a crash or abuse).

Folks have been using Phil hubs for years precisely because they are 
durable and smooth, if a bit heavy.  I recommend you look into Phil.  Also, 
they have great service--I went to the factory, where they found me a part 
for my now-discontinued hub from the 1980s, and fixed and trued the wheel 
for me, for the cost of the part (~$10).

Glad it did not ruin your trip.

Keep riding,

-Greg



On Thursday, July 27, 2017 at 9:14:29 AM UTC-7, John Stowe wrote:

> Kidding, of course I took it off the bike immediately!
>
> After a 52 mile day I noticed a loose spoke on my Sam Hillborne, but soon 
> discovered that tightening it wasn't going to do much:
>
>
> 
>
> I thought that the White MI5 would be a pretty sturdy choice for my Sam 
> Hillborne. It's been a good match for the SON dynamo in front, and I've had 
> 5 years of zero trouble. Loads do trend toward the heavy side - 230 lb. 
> rider plus kid and trailer - but it doesn't take many big hits. I did get a 
> pinch flat about a month before, but it wasn't hard enough to damage the 
> rim. Never had trouble with broken spokes or rims (other than brake track 
> wear) on this wheel. Annoyed that it happened in the middle of a tour; also 
> a bit disappointed that White's reaction basically amounts to "well, that 
> happens sometimes". 
>
> A cheapo $70 disc wheel got me through the rest of the tour, but now it's 
> time to find the long term replacement. Any advice on:
>
>- I wasn't off base picking the MI5, was I? If so, does anyone have 
>one they want to sell me? 
>- What other rear hubs are people picking these days for heavy loading 
>like mine? 36 holes, preferably silver. I have been using Velocity Dyads 
>but will rebuild with NoBS to handle my new 42mm Soma Shikoro tires 
>slightly better.
>
> More soon about our family tour: supported end-to-end on the Erie Canal, 
> from Buffalo to Albany. Fortunately this was just a minor hitch in an 
> otherwise fun week of riding!
>
> -John
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant's Other Book

[Greg J]

As I recall, there were 2:  East of the Hills and West of the Hills.

I picked up West at a used book shop in Berkeley years ago.  I'd love to 
pick up a copy of East of the Hills too.  I never thought to look it up on 
Amazon.

Greg
Oakland, CA



On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 3:01:14 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> To All: 
>
> If anybody is interested in reading Grant's 1984 book on cycling routes in 
> the Bay Area, send me a few bucks for postage and I'll mail it to you. You 
> can mail it back to me when you're done or it can circulate. All I ask is 
> that it eventually return to me. 
>
> Fun fact: Grant dedicated the book to B.F.Skinner and … Bob Dylan. The 
> latter, of course, went on to become the muse for Rivelo in Portland OR. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Low-rider Panniers on Rambouillet?

[Greg J]

Many many years ago, my wife rode her Rambouillet down the CA coast with a 
front rack.  It probably was a Bruce Gordon front rack with P-clamps.  We 
weren't camping, so we packed pretty lightly, but it held your usual load 
of clothing, some food, etc.  I don't recall it being a problem at that 
time.

Tubing stoutness is all relative--  Despite Grant's warning that this isn't 
a full-on tourer (compared to the Atlantis or Hunq), the Ramb still has a 
plenty stout frame (compared to the thin walls that are fashionable these 
days).  Unless you're going on a self-contained cross-country type trip, or 
technical dirt trails, you shouldn't have any trouble taking it on a 
weekend trip with 4 pannier's worth (or 2 frontloaders plus a saddlebag).

Good luck!

Greg
Oakland, CA

On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 1:24:49 PM UTC-8, Kieran J wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Hope everyone is having a nice holiday season!
>
> I'm curious about how the Rambouillet handles with different configs of a 
> front load. I've only ever really used a small Swift Bandito up on the 
> handlebar, but never anything more substantial. 
>
> Have any Ram owners ever: 
>
>- somehow run low-rider panniers on the stock fork?
>- run low-rider panniers and an additional front bag on the stock fork?
>- had success with an aftermarket fork with a different trail figure?
>
> Long story, I'm thinking of having a couple mods done to my Ram and new 
> powder done (the Creamsicle is cool, but doesn't match anything - 
> especially not all the red clothing I have). I would consider adding 
> mid-fork eyelets if running front low-riders appears to work well for the 
> bike.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kieran
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 110 bcd Square Taper Cranksets – TA, Ritchey, XC Pro, more (cross-post)

[Greg J]

Thanks for all your responses.  Availability of items updated below.

On Thursday, May 19, 2016 at 1:02:43 PM UTC-7, Greg J wrote:
>
> Sorry for the cross-post from the iBob list, but I think this should be of 
> interest to this group also
>
> I don’t know how I accumulated these over the years, but I don’t see that 
> I will use them anytime soon, so they’re up for grabs.
>
> [SOLD] TA Carmina (172.5) – 48/38 “Zephyr” matched rings in very good 
> (7.5/10) condition. I also have 2x 34T rings, but they are black and called 
> “Syrius.” According to Peter White, the 34T should mix n match with the 
> Zephyr 48T. $100 shipped with 48/38. If you want the 34T, add $25 for the 
> one with less use, or $15 for the more used one.
>
> Sugino Alpina (170) – 48/34 matched rings in very good condition (8.5/10). 
> Also known as the Cospea, I think. Shows some use, but still very nice. $90 
> shipped.
>
> [SOLD]  Ritchey Logic (175) – arms and crank bolts/spacers and 24T only. 
> The logos still look good (6.5/10). $55 shipped.
>
> Suntour XC Pro (175) – currently set up as 50/38 (Specialized and Sugino 
> rings) but is drilled for a 74bcd triple inner. In good condition (5/10). 
> $50 shipped.
>
> [SOLD]  Shimano Deore (170) triple – 46/36/24 rings. This is the MT80 
> model, in good condition, with lots of life left (5/10). $40 shipped.
>
> Detailed pics can be found here: 
> http://s102.photobucket.com/user/gregkjung/library/110%20bcd%20Cranksets%20for%20Sale
>
> I also have lots of square taper bb's (Phils, Ritchey, UN-xx), but I need 
> to take inventory first.
>
> thanks, Greg
> Oakland, CA
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] 110 bcd Square Taper Cranksets – TA, Ritchey, XC Pro, more (cross-post)

[Greg J]

Sorry for the cross-post from the iBob list, but I think this should be of 
interest to this group also

I don’t know how I accumulated these over the years, but I don’t see that I 
will use them anytime soon, so they’re up for grabs.

TA Carmina (172.5) – 48/38 “Zephyr” matched rings in very good (7.5/10) 
condition. I also have 2x 34T rings, but they are black and called 
“Syrius.” According to Peter White, the 34T should mix n match with the 
Zephyr 48T. $100 shipped with 48/38. If you want the 34T, add $25 for the 
one with less use, or $15 for the more used one.

Sugino Alpina (170) – 48/34 matched rings in very good condition (8.5/10). 
Also known as the Cospea, I think. Shows some use, but still very nice. $90 
shipped.

Ritchey Logic (175) – arms and crank bolts/spacers and 24T only. The logos 
still look good (6.5/10). $55 shipped.

Suntour XC Pro (175) – currently set up as 50/38 (Specialized and Sugino 
rings) but is drilled for a 74bcd triple inner. In good condition (5/10). 
$50 shipped.

Shimano Deore (170) triple – 46/36/24 rings. This is the MT80 model, in 
good condition, with lots of life left (5/10). $40 shipped.

Detailed pics can be found here: 
http://s102.photobucket.com/user/gregkjung/library/110%20bcd%20Cranksets%20for%20Sale

I also have lots of square taper bb's (Phils, Ritchey, UN-xx), but I need 
to take inventory first.

thanks, Greg
Oakland, CA




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[RBW] WTT some rivish parts

[Greg J]

John,

I have an LX rear wheel for you. I'm in Oakland. let's talk. 

Greg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Ram as a light tourer-your experiences?

[Greg J]

Late to the discussion, but my wife and I rode down from San Francisco to 
Santa Barbara a few years ago, and she was on her Ram. We rode at a 
leisurely pace, stopping at motels on the way.  As I recall, she had a 
Riv/Carradice front bag and a set of rear panniers (although could have 
been a Carradice Nelson). We had no issues, not even a flat, and it was a 
great trip.  So I would not worry about whether the Ram is an optimal light 
tourer, though it is close.  At that time, we probably used 28s.

Also, FYI, her early Ram (orange) is now wearing Jack Browns, but no 
fenders.

Greg

On Tuesday, March 24, 2015 at 7:57:10 AM UTC-7, alan lavine wrote:

 Thanks to all for sharing your thoughts and experiences.  It confirms my 
 belief that the Ram is perfect for my plans.  Can anyone get some Spring to 
 the NE ?

 Alan

 On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 10:51 AM, Tom Goodmann tgoo...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 Thanks, all, for a discussion that confirms my current effort to buy a 
 Ram frame and fork. I've been looking for a Heron Road, enjoying a Heron 
 Touring model already (though not as carefully built up as yours, Olof 
 Stroh).  I got no response to my replies to a CL post for a 58 Heron Road, 
 but am now after a 60 Ram, getting ready to move on from an RB-T, as I 
 think the Rambouillet will fit me better.  I plan to build it up lightly 
 for longer local rides, anticipating the flexibility that it shares with 
 other Rivs. Now, to close the deal!  --Tom (Miami, FL)

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[RBW] Longshot Trade: my Big Wald Basket for your Small

[Greg J]

I have the big Wald basket that Riv sells (used but not abused).  I'd like to 
try the small one. Anyone thinking the reverse?  I'm in the SF Bay Area -- 
local trade preferred, as shipping may be prohibitive.  

Thanks, Greg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bay Area RBW meetup group? ride or camping?

[Greg J]

I'm in. Thanks for organizing this!

Greg

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[RBW] Re: Heron: Why the incorrect info about tire clearance?

[Greg J]

At some point, rivendell sold their interest in the heron brand to someone, who 
then again sold it to someone.  So I believe there were 2 or 3 iterations of 
heron bikes.  I think when you're buying used bikes (esp one that's 14 years 
old), it's buyer beware.  Riv could have changed the specs before your bike was 
built (a right they reserve), the seller could have been mistaken about the 
year and it was a later version with different specs (probably the most likely 
explanation), or maybe this was a one-off custom or prototype. 

In any event, I don't think it's fair to characterize this as a 
misrepresentation because it was not a representation made to you in 2014 in 
connection with your frame, which you were buying from Riv. 

All that said, this is still a great bike with pretty much perfect geometry for 
unloaded all day road riding, much like the original Waterford Riv road. 

Greg in Oakland. 

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[RBW] Re: Burly Piccolo/Panniers Question

[Greg J]

I can confirm that the moose rack works with panniers with the piccolo 
installed. I have been doing this for many years, although my youngest is now 
on his own bike and likely won't be getting on the piccolo anymore. 

Greg

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[RBW] Re: Rack Mounting Question

[Greg J]

I don't have a set in front of me at the moment, but my recollection is that 
the mounting bolt is recessed in the XC pro, and so the Nitto bolt adaptor does 
not work with these brakes. And that explains why I have an unused set in my 
parts box. 

Greg

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[RBW] Trade Frame Pumps - Long for a Medium

[Greg J]

While we're on the topic of frame pumps, I have a Blackburn FP-1L, which is 
too long for my 53-55 cm tt bikes.  Does anyone have a 1M or similar pump 
(Zefal, Silca), who would like to trade?  I think the 1L would fit top 
tubes longer than approx. 57 cm.
 
Mine is a few years old (aluminum barrel), buit still works perfectly.  
 
I really like these Blackburn frame pumps--they feel a little more solid 
and nicer than the Zefal HP or HPx or Silca.  But the frame pumps get used 
infrequently since I use a floor pump whenever I can.
 
Greg
Oakland, CA
 
 
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Some 650b conversion pics

[Greg J]

I'm pretty sure the early production Riv Roads had 75mm drop.  I also vaguely 
recall Grant mentioning how he increased the drop on the Rambouillet, maybe to 
78mm?  

Greg

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[RBW] Re: S24O to Pt. Reyes Friday the 23rd

[Greg J]

Andrew, what time do you expect you'll leave from Embarcadero?
 
Greg

On Friday, November 15, 2013 7:22:41 AM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:

 Ah, those slippery details. Yes, Friday night the 22nd. I have site #6 
 reserved, it holds six people nominally, two already there.

 Now thinking of a high route along Bolinas Ridge going north,between 
 Pantoll and Olema, then a return via Lucas Valley. But if some Riv folks 
 just wanted to meet at Sky Camp, I'm glad to share the site.

 - Andrew, Berkeley

 On Thursday, November 14, 2013 10:27:20 PM UTC-8, Manuel Acosta wrote: 

 Did ya mean saturday nov 23rd or Friday nov 22nd?



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[RBW] WTB: 56cm Rambouillet or Hilsen

[Greg J]

There was a very nice one on the local Craigslist here in the bay area 
California.  Maybe someone here can facilitate, incl myself. 

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo as Commuter

[Greg J]

I had the same (Jitensha, right?) bars on my commuter, but I switched them 
out for drops when my commuting distance increased to 16+ miles.

Greg

On Sunday, September 8, 2013 11:43:53 AM UTC-7, Trevor saxton wrote:

 Thanks for the compliments, I'll be certain to post impressions after 
 about a month, first 20km ride today was nice, I've always regretted 
 selling my simpleone, this is a quicker and lighter version of that. 

 Not yet sold on the flat bars, they look great and for rides up to 20km 
 work well, not sure how the hands would feel on longer ridee.

 If I run into you, you're welcome to take it for a test ride, I live in 
 the Beach area and mostly ride along the lakeshore bike paths between 
 Scarborough and Etobicoke. 


 On Sunday, September 8, 2013 2:15:20 PM UTC-4, blakcloud wrote:


 That has to be one of the nicest bikes ever posted here. I will be 
 interested to read your review in a month or so to tell us what kind of 
 commuter it is. I am flat bar guy and I love White Industries cranks so you 
 hit the sweet spot for me. What size of tire did you get they look like 
 Schwalbe Marathon 35's?

 If by chance I ever see you on the road, I would love to try out your 
 bike, if you were to permit it. It's not like us Toronto people ever get to 
 test drive Rivendell's and if I remember correctly your bike is a 55 which 
 is what I ride. 

 Thomas




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[RBW] free: Vaude convertible pannier/packpack

[Greg J]

Hi all,

I recently switched my commute, so I am no longer using this bag.  it is a 
single pannier that converts to a backpack after you zip off the rear cover 
that has the attachment hooks.

It was used for a few months, but still in very good condition, except the 
lower hook, which was plastic, broke.  You can easily replace the hook with 
a ring or metal S hook from a hardware store, and it will be good to go.  
It has a built-in raincover and some straps for securing your helmet on the 
outside, which I never used.

If you will cover the shipping (I would estimate $10-12, since it's bulky), 
I'm happy to send it to you.  Or if any of the local Bay Area folks want to 
pick it up, that's even better, and preference will be given to local pick 
up.

It is similar to this one that I found online, but not the exact model.  
Mine maybe an earlier model?
http://chestercycling.wordpress.com/2011/01/24/vaude-cycle-25/

I can take a picture and send it later today, if you're interested.  Shoot 
me an e-mail offlist.

thanks, 
Greg (Oakland, CA)

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[RBW] FS- Ortlieb and Carradice bags

[Greg J]

I have been hoarding these bags for a while, but I don't foresee using them.
 
First up is the Ortlieb Mud Racer LED, which is a waterproof hard-shell 
seat bag with a built-in LED rear light.  I thought I would use this on my 
commuter or MTB, but my plans have changed.  I have mounted it once for the 
fit, but it has never been used, and it still have tab on the LED battery 
intact, so the battery has not made contact with the leads.  It is a pretty 
good size for seat bags, and it will fit your wallet, phone, tubes, and 
small tools (depending, of course).  I'm asking $30 shipped for this.
 
http://www.ortlieb.co.uk/mudracer-led.html
 
Second up the Berthoud rack saddlebag, with the proprietary mounting system 
included.  It is brand-new, still in the bag, in the grey color.  This is 
the smaller (7 liter) size.  See here for details:  Looking for $190 
shipped.
http://www.wallbike.com/berthoud/berthoud/berthoud-rack-saddlebags-gb604704
 
Thanks for looking,
Greg
Oakland, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: Kinda OT but Kinda ON-T: Riv'd Ritchey Road Bike

[Greg J]

I have a fillet brazed Ritchey from 1980, with no serial number either and 
similar graphics.  (Mine came with the original invoice to the original 
purchaser.)  I think yours must be eariler than mine.  It is a fantastic 
riding bike! 
 

On Monday, August 5, 2013 4:39:24 PM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 Patrick, I really like the way it handles. I would place it in between my 
 AHH (on the more conservative side) and the 1978 Riv'ed Raleigh Pro that I 
 have (More Race-like). The Long chainstays and low bottom bracket make feel 
 very stable but the steering is a good bit quicker than my Riv. Fun bike!

 On Monday, August 5, 2013 9:57:14 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote: 

 Me, too. How does the Ritchey handle?

 On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 6:13 AM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

 good job - I like your taste in drivetrains 


  

 -- 

 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
 patric...@resumespecialties.com
 http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/


 Albuquerque, NM



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[RBW] FS: Grey Banana Bag

[Greg J]

I bought this grey with leather trim banana bag from a listmember here a 
while bag, but never used it.  It is very lightly used, I'd say a 9 out of 
10.  The grey canvas is clean with no marks.  It was made by the Duluth 
company, and the round leather patch says Duluth rather than Baggins.  The 
banana bag is a really handy bag, big enough for everything you'd want to 
take along for a day ride (wallet, phone, tools, tube, a little food) with 
room on top and loops to lash a wind breaker.
 
Since I don't think I'll be using this bag in the near future (I already 
have 2 others), I'd like to see if anyone on the list is 
interested.  I'm thinking $50 shipped.
 
Thanks, and I can email pics tonight if you're interested.
 
Greg  

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of The Rambo

[Greg J]

It happened to me about a month ago, too.  I took my son out to ride on 
some trails (the East/West Ridge Trail in Oakland), and I rode my wife's 
orange Ramb with albatross bars because it has fat tires (I think Avocet 
Cross 35s?). My old MTB was not in ridable condition, and I felt like a 
change from my drop bar bikes.
 
I had 2 people come up and compliment the bike.  That rarely happens when I 
ride my other, albeit equally nice, bikes --- Bruce Gordons or old Ritchey 
sport tourer.  That Riv mystique!
 
 
 
 

On Monday, March 18, 2013 3:13:03 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:

 I have a 62 All purpose orange (Ebisu calls it Moltini Orange; I call it 
 Creamsicle) which I am about to put on the market.  Just in case you are 
 lusting for a great riding orange bike. 
 *
 *
 I tried to talk GP into selling me an orange AHH with cantis and a few 
 different braze ons, but it became acustom and outa my price range.



 On Monday, March 18, 2013 5:32:18 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote: 

 You're right, my blue Ramby is clearly slower than the orange ones. Of 
 course, the motor has *nothing* to do with this. ;-)

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:16:16 AM UTC-7, William wrote:

 Not only that, but every bike that has ever been always rides better and 
 rides faster when it is Orange.  FACT

 On Monday, March 18, 2013 11:09:06 AM UTC-7, Evan wrote: 

 The orange Rambouillet is the best-looking bike ever. Fact. :)



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[RBW] Re: Color Question from an Indecisive Person

[Greg J]

There's a dark purple rambouillet on the cyclofiend website, I think, which 
looks stunning.  And I'm not even a fan of purple normally.  Definitely 
check it out.

On Tuesday, January 8, 2013 10:39:52 AM UTC-8, Peter M wrote:

 So my Bombadil is taking a short trip over to the Color Factory in 
 Waretown. Even though thier prices seem scarily low Bruce was awesome 
 on the phone so I am gonna take the leap soon. The only issue is I 
 have never gotten a re-spray and I am having angina over which color 
 is most appropriate for the twin TT bomba. I wanted something 
 metallic, maybe a dark purple or a soft orange, as you can see I am 
 worlds apart even in my own mind. Anyone have any pics of thier 
 bombadil they can share so I can play off some ideas? 


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[RBW] Re: WTB: Baggins or equivalent handlebar Bag

[Greg J]

Jon,

I also have a very lightly used Baggins Hobo bag I'm not using.  I will be 
going on a family trip for a week, but if you haven't found one by then (or 
if you can wait), let me know. 

Greg

On Sunday, December 23, 2012 6:02:35 PM UTC-8, Jon Kaplan wrote:

 I'm looking for a used Baggins handlebar bag. I believe it went by the 
 name Hobo and various others. It is about 12 wide 8 high and about 3 
 deep. Has two leather straps to attach it. It can be one of the later 
 incarnations. They changed so often, I don't know what they were called.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Baggins or equivalent handlebar Bag

[Greg J]

Actually, as I think about it, mine is made by Carradice and is the green 
color.  Carradice made it for a while before there were delivery issues, at 
which time Riv went to the Baggins line made in the US.

Greg

On Friday, December 28, 2012 10:55:52 AM UTC-8, Greg J wrote:

 Jon,

 I also have a very lightly used Baggins Hobo bag I'm not using.  I will be 
 going on a family trip for a week, but if you haven't found one by then (or 
 if you can wait), let me know. 

 Greg

 On Sunday, December 23, 2012 6:02:35 PM UTC-8, Jon Kaplan wrote:

 I'm looking for a used Baggins handlebar bag. I believe it went by the 
 name Hobo and various others. It is about 12 wide 8 high and about 3 
 deep. Has two leather straps to attach it. It can be one of the later 
 incarnations. They changed so often, I don't know what they were called.



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[RBW] Riding in San Diego

[Greg J]

It looks like I'll be in San Diego for a week, and I am hoping to get in a 
few 2-3 hour rides.  Can someone suggest some routes? Feel free to contact 
me offlist.

thanks, Greg 

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[RBW] Re: Homemade Accessories for Bikes

[Greg J]

I haven't attempted this yet, but I have been thinking about hacking 
together a locking metal or plastic box for the bike.  Something like the 
Keven's bag, but with a lock. I usually leave my bike locked in the secure 
parking garage in my building, but even still I don't like the idea of 
leaving my small toolkit/tube/misc. in a bag, which may be too tempting for 
the wrong person.  

Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could find a lightweight 
locking box?

Greg
Oakland, CA


On Thursday, November 22, 2012 11:05:20 AM UTC-8, Tony Lockhart wrote:

 Hello all and Happy Thanksgiving! I just wanted to see if anyone else in 
 the Riv community enjoys making accessories for their bikes. If this is the 
 case, I'd love to see what innovative things you've made. In the meantime, 
 I'll post some images of things that I've made.

 During the past 2 years, I have been trying to perfect the rando bag but 
 ultimately have been displeased with its lack of sturdiness. I enjoy making 
 them, using them for a while, then gifting them to other cycling 
 friends--this is great because it constantly gives me the opportunity to 
 make new bags. While rando bags look great, I have yet to make one as 
 versatile as a Wald basket. And after many years of debate, I have decided 
 to stick with my Wald. With that in mind, I missed the tool pockets 
 typically found at the back of a rando bag. So, I recently decided to 
 create a couple of pouches to hang on the back side of my basket.

 Both pouches are 2 inches deep, 4 inches wide, and 5 inches high. There is 
 also an extra 3 inches of flap available if I try to over-stuff the 
 pouches. It was relatively easy to construct these little bags because 
 canvas is such a forgiving material to work with. I have plastic stiffeners 
 inside the bags (very similar to the ones in Acorn bags) and velcro 
 attachments to keep everything in place. While these dimensions may seem 
 small, I have all of my tools in the left pouch (inner tube, patch kit, 
 multi tool, a pair of CO2 cartridges, 3 tire levers, zip ties, and 4 Irish 
 straps). The pouch on the right is used to keep my cell phone, garage 
 clicker, and keys; there is quite a bit of space left for snacks, a saddle 
 cover, and a bandana. I'd love to see the folks at Riv create some 
 Sackville versions of these because they're extremely versatile.

 Have a look--I am attaching JPEG images to this post. Also, I'd love to 
 see any other accessories people make for their bikes.


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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to the B17 saddle? My choice, the Avocet Women's O2 Air 40

[Greg J]

I have 2 of the O2M (men's) saddles that I think is a little narrower than 
the B17, but still wide compared to most saddles.  For me, the O2M has been 
a nice substitute for the B17.



On Friday, November 30, 2012 8:30:34 AM UTC-8, Mojo wrote:

 Most of my bikes have B17s on them. I agree with most of you here, the B17 
 is supremely comfortable and has traditional good looks. But a B17 or even 
 the Champion Flyer with their steel nose piece can be a true PIA offroad. 
 Bumps and jumps can really hurt if I end up on the nose of the saddle, and 
 most single track riding has me all over the length of the saddle. 
  
 So over the years I have searched for a plastic saddle with similar 
 dimensions. The Avocet Women's O2 Air 40 saddle is close. It is 178mm wide 
 by 259mm long compared to the B17's 170X280. More importantly it has the 
 flat back and profile center dip that I believe makes the B17 comfortable. 
 Of course the O2 doesn't have saddle bag loops and it probably rides warmer 
 than the B17 leather. But I don't have to baby it in the dirt and wet, and 
 it doesn't beat me in the bumps. I like it enough I may try it on a road 
 bike this winter. 
  
 I only bring this saddle up to the group now that I have garnered two of 
 the discontinued O2s for my use. :-)


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Re: [RBW] 650b Ram with Hetres, update 1

[Greg J]

Toshi,

2 thoughts.  First, Hiroshi at Jitensha years ago filed 1-2mm on a brake 
slot on one of my bikes.  So I think that's fine.  But, if you're unsure, 
some Mafacs had a vertical (oblong) slot instead of a circular mounting 
hole in the yoke, which would give you another 3-4mm.  I have one of these 
on a 2000 brakeset i'm not using. If you want, I can measure the reach for 
you and see if it's long enough.

Greg, also in Oakland, CA, but won't get a chance to get out this weekend.


On Friday, November 2, 2012 11:09:22 AM UTC-7, ttoshi wrote:

 Hey Bruce,

 I still need to route new brake cables because the cables I have now are 
 too short and swap the cassette because my RD is a road vs mountain on my 
 other 650b rigs, but I plan a ride this weekend! Look for update 2 
 hopefully soon! If the test ride goes well, I'll file the hole 2mm. Thanks 
 to all for the tips!

 Toshi in Oakland, CA


 On Fri, Nov 2, 2012 at 10:55 AM, Bruce Herbitter 
 bruce.h...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 So, How did you like the test ride?




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[RBW] Re: Bay Area paint job recommendations?

[Greg J]

I'll second Ed Litton.  He's not your guy for a inexpensive job, but his 
work is excellent.  He paints Bruce Gordon's bikes, I saw hanging in his 
shop all sorts of fancy old and new frames.

Greg

On Thursday, October 18, 2012 3:29:30 PM UTC-7, Michael_S wrote:

 Spectrum, who's often touted the best Powder coater in the US, uses a 
 special finer powder to improve lug line definition is still not anywhere 
 near a good wet paint job. Depends on how picky you are too. 

 ~mike
 Carlsbad Ca.

 On Tuesday, October 16, 2012 11:03:07 PM UTC-7, Jared Volpe wrote:

 Any suggestions for a paint job in the Bay Area?



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[RBW] Re: The Poster--What to do now that you have it

[Greg J]

For those of you with better artistic sense than me and who are framing it, 
mat or no mat?  



On Thursday, June 28, 2012 8:57:09 PM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:

 And it is now framed (basic poster frame) and hanging on the wall with the 
 Rando bling. Looks great. Since we aren't showing the poster, here is the 
 Rando bling: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lynnefitz/6810284795/

 No wearable jerseys were sacrificed.


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[RBW] Re: Help! Convince me to buy (or not buy) this Atlantis!

[Greg J]

Wow, you guys are incorrigible.  Let me be the dissenting voice of reason 
here.  I would hesitate to buy a bike that doesn't fit right --- been 
there, done that.  While I agree it's a great deal, you just never know 
what will happen.  Sure, there are folks here who are volunteering to buy 
this from you if it doesn't work out, but until the money's in your hands, 
that's no guarantee.  And you need to deal with taking pictures, haggling 
over prices and parts, packing and shipping, paypal, etc., which all take a 
lot of time.

I've been down this path before--so sure that it's a great deal that I 
could flip if things don't work out--only to be stuck with it. 

Of course, if I were in your shoes, I might not follow my own prudent 
advice either.

Greg

On Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:29:27 PM UTC-7, The Cripler wrote:

 Ok. So here is the situation. I have been looking for an Atlantis for a 
 while. Well I guess looking isn't the right word. Perhaps dreaming is a 
 more appropriate descriptor. To be honest, I haven't really thought that an 
 Atlantis was going to be in my price range at the current moment. Not 
 without selling off a few of the bike I have, and as my wife has learned, 
 selling off bikes isn't a strong point of mine. Anyway, now out of the blue 
 I have stumbled upon an opportunity to purchase a complete Altantis 
 forwait for it.$1000. Here are the specs:

 Nitto Technomic Stem
 Nitto Noodle handlebars with new tape
 Front rim: Bontrager 36 spokes
 Rear rim: Velocity Synergy 36 spokes 
 Hubs: Phil Wood hubs 
 Tires: Schwalbe Marathon Plus (basically new)
 Sugino XD crankset
 Phil Wood BB
 Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore XT 
 Shimano Cantis (couldnt tell what model)
 Saddle: Brooks premium leather 
 SKS fenders

 It seems like an amazing price. I have met the guy, he seems like a 
 totally straight up person. Now here is the dilemma. First, the frame is a 
 58. I have a Surly LHT (which of course I'd sell...maybe) which is a 56cm. 
 Fits me great. My PBH is 83.84, but lets call it 84. According to the 
 sizing charts I've seen Rivendell would put me on a 56-58cm frame. But, 
 this just seems big to me. I know this has been discussed countless time 
 before, but I am really concerned that a 58  would be too big for me to 
 ride comfortably. I took the bike on a test ride, and with the current stem 
 and setup it definitely felt too large. But, I did have a fistful post 
 showing with my legs extended - albeit barely. The other main issue with 
 the bike is that both of the rear rack braze-ons have broken off. As the 
 seller described it, one of the braze-ons was broken off when he purchased 
 the bike, and the other broke off due to the undue stress on a cross 
 country trip. I looked at the damage and it really doesn't seem to be an 
 issue, or to be that diffucult to fix. I have a frame builder in town who 
 would be able to make short work of it...although I'm not sure what it 
 would cost. Finally, the paint has some wear. There are several chips. It 
 actually looks way better than I thought it would considering the price. 
 But, it does have character. So given what I have laid out...am I an 
 idiot for having second thoughts about jumping on this? If the bike didn't, 
 do you think i would be able to get my money back if I had to sell it? Help 
 a confused brother out here. Thanks All!


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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Rivendell road-style bike for 82 PBH. Rambouillet, Road, Homer, Roadeo, Bleriot, etc.

[Greg J]

I'm not sure that's correct.  The early Waterford Rivs (like the one I used 
to have) used an Everest bb shell.  Although I can't remember whether 
that's the exact model.  The rivendell branded shells came later.

As for the sizing, I had a 54 c-t, and this one looks about the same, or 
maybe a cm bigger.  The 54 had a 55 c-c top tube.  

Greg

On Sunday, June 24, 2012 2:06:27 AM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:

 And while not mentioned in the repairs, the BB shell appears incorrect. 
 Still and all, it might build up nicely.  

 Sent from my Kindle Fire


 --
 *From:* Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net
 *Sent:* Sat Jun 23 19:38:30 CDT 2012
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Rivendell road-style bike for 82 PBH. 
 Rambouillet, Road, Homer, Roadeo, Bleriot, etc.
  
 My '95 Road Standard is a 56 measured center to top (about 54 center to 
 center), and has a 57 top tube.  This frame is maybe 2 cm smaller, the head 
 lugs nearly touch and there's no room for a pump peg, so I'd say 54 center 
 to top.   My head tube is 14 cm, but the one in the listing lacks the 
 extension above the upper head lug, so an 11 cm head tube adds up.   It has 
 enough headset spacers to make up for the missing extension.  If the top 
 tube is really 57, it may have been a custom geometry.  Or it got changed 
 when the frame was rebuilt.

 I think it's unlikely that the replacement front end has the original 753 
 tubing.  Riv's 753 tubes were drawn to Grant's specifications with thicker 
 walls and longer butts than a standard 753 set, and by 2003 even standard 
 753 was obsolete.  It could have 853 tubes, or True Temper.  Fork blades, 
 probably whatever Waterford was using at the time, probably not 531.  At 
 least it still has the pretty lugs and head badge.

 Picky detail - note that in picture 21, the Simplex binder bolt is not 
 installed correctly.  The flats should be vertical, so the nut sits fully 
 inside the lug.  

 Bill

 On Saturday, June 23, 2012 4:19:52 PM UTC-7, Aaron Thomas wrote:

 That's a really nice frame too. I wonder about the accuracy of the 
 seller's description. A 57 cm top tube on a 54 frame doesn't compute to me. 
 But I could be wrong.

 I have a PBH similar to the original poster's and a 57 top tube would be 
 way too long for me.

 On Saturday, June 23, 2012 4:07:37 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:

 Perhaps this 54 might work?


 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=200779652699ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

 On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 5:03 PM, Brian Campbell 
 bdcampbel...@gmail.comwrote:

 Mis-read. Sorry! Still a sweet bike. It is my size, that is why I keep 
 thinking about it!


 On Saturday, June 23, 2012 6:02:03 PM UTC-4, Aaron Thomas wrote:

 That's a sweet looking Road Standard. But a 59cm is way too big for an 
 82 cm PBH. For 82, you're talking about a frame in the 53-55 cm range.

 O


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Re: [RBW] Re: Low Trail Fork Experiment ... FYI only - Not intended to start another debate...

[Greg J]

Rene,

Thanks for your write up.  Very interesting.  I have some thoughts about 
the low-trail issue, FWIW.  

I definitely noticed a difference in handling between the low trail bike (a 
Toei I had for a while) and a Riv, which I assume may be attributable to 
the difference in trail.  The hard part is describing the difference in 
feel, and I thought I'd do my part to muddy the waters even more.  You say, 
where before I had to drive the bike, especially around turns, now all I 
have to do is think of where I want to go and the bike just responds 
effortlessly.  That's funny, because I would have described it the 
opposite way.  In my experience, the low trail bike will go exactly where 
you point the handlebar and will respond to small changes in your input.  A 
positive way to describe this would be it's responsive to steering 
input.  A negative description would be, it requires you to always be 
controlling the bike.  The high trail bike is more stable, in that once you 
set a course in a turn, it will keep to its natural arc. Positively, it's 
on rails, and negatively, it resists or fights your input.  I think the 
term automatic can be applied to both, and mean different thing, and that 
may be where some confusion arises.  Low trail is automatic in that it 
tracks more closely your steering input--it does what you're perhaps 
subconsciously doing to the bike.  High trail is automatic in that it (esp 
in turns) has its own arc that it will default to once you initiate the 
turn and it resists efforts to alter that course.  Does this make sense?

Anyways, as most will agree, it's not a life-changing experience, and 
plenty of people (myself included) have toured on high-trail bikes with a 
front bag and survived.  But it's a significant enough difference, and I'm 
glad you embarked on your adventures.

Greg

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[RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Joe/Joe Longlow revised

[Greg J]

This is a steal with JB paint and JS build!  I wish it were my size...

On Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, SISDDWG wrote:

 Frame, fork, and headset only 

 Frame: 
  Long-low road 
  Standard 
  Size: 59cm measured ctt, tt has 1 degree upslope 

 Braze-ons: 
  Shifter bosses 
  Cantilever bosses 
  Rear rack mounts 

 Installed Parts: 
  Tange Rollerball headset 26.4 x 30.2 

 Paint: 
  JB Green 
  Painted head tube 
  Window fill 

 Specs: 
  Top Tube: Reynolds 725 28.6 x 858 (AG206) 
  Head Tube: Reynolds 531 31.7 x 0.9 
  Fork Blades: Reynolds 531 Rnd 24OD x 0.55 x 385 
  Down Tube: Tange Prestige 28.6 9-6-9 
  Seat Stay: Vitus 16OD x 0.8 x 560 
  Seat Tube: Vitus 28.6 976 (GTI) 
  Chain Stay: Reynolds 725 22.2 ROR 8-6 (FX2500) 

 NEVER crashed. No dents. Usual unobtrusive paint chips. 

 Shipping within continental U.S.A. only. Buyer pays actual USPS cost. 

 Price: $850 plus shipping cost via Paypal or cash if local pick up. 




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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

[Greg J]

Peter, 

Only you can decide whether it is too small for your intended purpose.  I 
have a Barley, a Lowsaddle Longflap, and a Nelson LF, and they all have 
different uses.  The Barley is good for a day trip to bring extra clothing, 
some food, books, etc.  Not really for carrying groceries or such.  But, 
you will likely not need a rack or other support for it.  It is small 
enough that if you ride a bike bigger than 52 or so, it probably won't rub 
the tire, and because of its size, you will probably not load it too 
heavily.

I ride ~54 bikes, and I use a SQR for my LSLF.

Greg

On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 2:36:31 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
 anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
 need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
 will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
 anyone can offer.

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