should have added this tool with full allen set is usually open when I'm
working on bikes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/700c/aaP7140004.jpg
I have a few T-handle allens hanging through the holes in my bikestand tool
tray
On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 1:51:50 PM
I store mine clockwise. No, I mean counter clockwise. Wait a minute.
No, really, a few months ago I finally took a deep breath and completed the
pegboard system that I started in, I think, February of 2004. Now all my
little wrenches, allen combos, pliers, drivers and so forth are in full
view on
Johann - no problem with up or down as long as it isn't in reference to
direction you are pushing the wrench, like the other suggestion of down for
out. Down with the wrench to the front or back? I suppose with a bottom
bracket your wrench is facing the front of the bike, as the other
surprising, it was Jim's trial-and-error directions that took this thread
south for me.
I work on valuable antique fishing reels for a hobby business.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/bluegrass/talbot/cP4220108.jpg
often fabricating parts, and sometimes taking cutters or
Lol, this thread has taken a bit of a turn. Semi-related to the ongoing
wrenching theme. How do people store their tools? I've seen nice kits
that come up in boxes where every tool as their place. But i've bought
mine as i needed them so its a mix of tools. I keep them in a toolbox and
I organize mine via gravitational vectors in my tool box. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 11:55:14 AM UTC-7, Minh wrote:
Lol, this thread has taken a bit of a turn. Semi-related to the ongoing
wrenching theme. How do people store their tools? I've seen nice kits
Forwards on the top. When I think back of the bike for pedals, and front
of the bike for BB cups (thanks, Bill!), I'm imagining pushing the wrench
over the top.
Picture help? https://flic.kr/p/qmuU9M
Philip
www.biketinker.com
On Monday, December 8, 2014 6:57:25 PM UTC-8, Toby Whitfield
major bike tools are on the pegboard - they don't get used that often -
little tools are on the bike stand tool tray
On Tuesday, December 9, 2014 1:00:40 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I organize mine via gravitational vectors in my tool box. Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Tuesday,
On Friday, December 5, 2014 6:24:08 PM UTC+1, Joe Bernard wrote:
Here's Riv's amazing Mark Abele installing a BB. What fascinates me about
watching him is that he's quick, but very precise: He knows where
everything is, and you can see him whip the tools right up to the contact
point,
Ah - you are correct. My imaginary backwards circular arrows are for pedal
removal only.
So, BB cups always (on British threaded BBs) unscrew toward the FRONT of
the bike? Righty-loosey on the right, lefty-loosey on the left?
And crank bolts are always lefty-loosey? Wrench rotates toward the
On Friday, December 5, 2014 6:25:21 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote: Fear , any and
every fear, has no basis in Truth. No self existent power to stand on it
own. Hence, it is no-thing , nothing. You already know everything you'll
ever know :) This IS Absolute Truth !
Hey All,
I don't want to suggest
On Monday, December 8, 2014 8:35:07 PM UTC+1, Philip Williamson wrote:
Ah - you are correct. My imaginary backwards circular arrows are for pedal
removal only.
So, BB cups always (on British threaded BBs) unscrew toward the FRONT of
the bike? Righty-loosey on the right, lefty-loosey on
I find forwards and backwards unhelpful when thinking about these things.
Forwards on the top or bottom? If your mental model assumes that you are
looking at it from a specific orientation, I think that orientation needs to be
explicitly expressed. Even righty tighty can be backwards from the
On Tue, Dec 9, 2014 at 3:57 AM, Toby Whitfield toby.whitfi...@gmail.com
wrote:
I find forwards and backwards unhelpful when thinking about these things.
Forwards on the top or bottom? If your mental model assumes that you are
looking at it from a specific orientation, I think that orientation
For English BBs down is out that is how I remember.
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The spoke nipple is the cap, the spoke is the jar.
Philip! You may have just ruined my inflatable ability to screw up a
wheel's true every time I try and fix it! Brilliant!
With abandon,
Patrick
On Sunday, December 7, 2014 11:02:42 AM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
Good-to-have when working
- Cranks, pedals, bottom bracket cups always loosen towards the back of
the bike.
I like this. Right hand pedal has a right hand thread, so if you attach a
pedal wrench to the right hand pedal and think of that wrench handle as a
crank arm, you BACKPEDAL to loosen. You also backpedal with
Having cut off a stuck crank from a bottom bracket spindle, I will say
there is no shame in that. :)
On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 12:26 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
- Cranks, pedals, bottom bracket cups always loosen towards the back of
the bike.
I like this. Right hand pedal has
Especially with bikes such as Rivs that have fine paint jobs, always be
sure to have a lot of work rags nearby. Put the rag over the tubing near
where you are twisting, pulling, pushing or whatever it is you are doing
with a steel tool that is a sworn enemy of paint.
Dings from the ride are
Purchase the right tools and buy yourself a workstand, if you don't already
have one. My workstand was the best investment I ever made. Buy the tools
over time as you need them, it lightens the load on your finances. My
workstand and assorted Campy tools are 30 years old and are still going
My padding the tubes comment was more wrapping the tubes to protect the
finish from wrench edges. E.G. if you are working on the headset, wrap a
rag around the top tube so you don't gouge it unnecessarily.
- Jim
On Friday, December 5, 2014 11:02:12 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
For
On tools, some stuff is definitely bike specific - the thinness needed for
lockring/cup-cones/pedal wrenches for example. But, some stuff does't
matter. Craftsman gives an over-the-counter warranty (as do others) and
generally, like the best warranties, you don't have to use it.
HA!
Just realized that when Flickr did their redesign a couple years back, ALL
of the notes which were tagged to specific items within each of those
photos got deleted. Oy. Back when I had more free time, I put
names/specs and purpose on each.
Anyway
- J
On Saturday, December 6, 2014
Gotcha. I have grazed, scoured, and scratched many a tube for neglecting
this padding or protective wrapping.
On Sat, Dec 6, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Cyclofiend Jim cyclofi...@earthlink.net
wrote:
My padding the tubes comment was more wrapping the tubes to protect
the finish from wrench edges. E.G.
I really like Zinn's repair manuals ...
here's a link to the Road Bike one *http://tinyurl.com/mnskwkl*.
A bike work stand is very helpful, but hanging a bike from the ceiling with
two ropes works well, and is quite economical.
Zinn provides good advice on tools too. Although some tools are
Dive in and dare! I consider wrenching part of my brain injury therapy. I
have difficulty with fine motor skills, and working gone my bikes forces me
to do some of that, without it being overwhelming. Interestingly enough,
the hardest thing in that regard is wrapping my handlebars. I've done
Fear , any and every fear, has no basis in Truth. No self existent power
to stand on it own. Hence, it is no-thing , nothing.
You already know everything you'll ever know :)
This IS Absolute Truth !
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I was in the same situation as you a couple years ago. I learned from
reading all of Sheldon Brown, internet videos (Part tool has great ones),
and a basic maintenance class at my local bike co-op.
Since then, I've taken a part-time job doing final assembly and maintenance
on bikes at my LBS.
Go where the pros go..You can attend classes, or buy the manuals, or get
just the manual via PDF.
http://www.bbinstitute.com/index.php
I spent my two week vacation here back in 88.Have never regretted it. All
in beautiful Colorado Springs.
Jon
On Thursday, December 4, 2014 10:25:42 PM UTC-7,
Wiping down your bike with a rag and looking closely at the parts will tell
you a lot about how your bike is built and works.
Begin with the headset, since it's already all there and it's unlikely you
will need to replace everything right away (probabl just needs cleaning,
fresh grease and
Working on bikes and components that are not very precious and/or delicate
makes you more relaxed and probably is the best way to start hands-on
learning. If you have no desire whatsoever to have one more bike and just
want to work on your Rivendell, you will progress and learn slower by a
Forgot to mention that Park Tool has the best service/repair instructions
I've come across online - http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
I always try to lift forward their excellent instructions on how to adjust
cup and cone wheel bearings - it's an ingenious method with the wheel
clamped
oh and forgot to mention if you get good at cables come here and do mine
anyday! I have my whole cabling technique down but I have to say its the
bike maintenance job I loathe the most, so tedious
On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Johan Larsson seven.nau...@gmail.com
wrote:
Forgot to mention
Peter's reference to cables is on point: If you're already comfortable with
*that,* you're ready for the other jobs you've listed. Read lots
(especially about which way BB's thread in), look at pics, watch videos,
grease threads, go slow, and have fun!
PS. One thing I've learned the hard way
+1 Joe, I learned to take step back and look at the bike a few times the
second time I realized when I got done that I had criss crossed the brake
and cable lines over each other on one side, not a major issue but an
annoyance that I couldn't let stay, aaarggh!
On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:42 AM,
Here's Riv's amazing Mark Abele installing a BB. What fascinates me about
watching him is that he's quick, but very precise: He knows where
everything is, and you can see him whip the tools right up to the contact
point, then do a quick-slow-down just before he gets there so he's only
touching
It's all about having the right tools. Don't try anything unless you begin
with the right tools.
On Friday, December 5, 2014 11:24:08 AM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
Here's Riv's amazing Mark Abele installing a BB. What fascinates me about
watching him is that he's quick, but very precise:
If you've got the tools bottom brackets and cranksets are pretty simple,
nothing really to mess up there. Derailers are not that complicated either,
it's basically about setting the limit screws to keep the chain from going
where it's not supposed to. Headsets only get slightly complicated when
As others have said, parts aren't precious and steel will resist most
efforts to damage it.
I was lucky enough to be around a number of talented mechanics, and tutored
by one in particular who was truly my sensei. Some of the process is
messing up a bit. Rounding some bits off and solving
Yep: buy a beater and have at it! (But I'll bet that you already have the
skills necessary to install a derailer.)
By the way, how do you determine if your steerer tube is butted? Anyone? .
. .
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I learned by working on old 10 speeds and using Sheldon Browns site,
YouTube, and copious amounts of the Zinn and the art of Road bike
maintenance. My take-aways are; take your time, walk away when you get
frustrated, having good tools/the right tools for the job can make things
SO much
For Rivendell-list-type bikes? I've clamped tubes, top and down, since I
bought my first Park stand in ~2003 (presently have a better one); and at
the bike shop we clamped tubes on steel and aluminum; never using any
padding except that which is part of the jaws. Since the Park had the old
bolt in
I only have one more piece of hard learned advice on the bike-your hand is
not a hammer, or a wrench or a pliers. It can be a crude substitute but
yes, get the right tool. Don't be an idiot like me and try to loose a
freewheel by banging on the wrench with your hand...1 surgery later lesson
On Friday, December 5, 2014 1:26:05 PM UTC-8, Peter M wrote: I only have
one more piece of hard learned advice ... get the right tool.
That is a very loose edit. Cost wise tools hurt at the outset. Around here
they hurt worse than the first several repair bills from the local shop.
Chris makes a great point. For someone starting out I would say go with
park tools, they are good quality and built to last, yes they are pricey
but looking at my tool box full of blue handles makes me feel less anxious
when I get to the wrenching. The thing I cheaped out on and should have
+1 on Park Tools and anything Rivendell offers. It is amazing the
difference in feel a quality tool has over a cheep one.
With abandon,
Patrick
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I have various Park tools, plus a home mechanics set from Performance. I
don't agree that everything has to be pricey Park stuff for the occasional
hobby wrencher. My tool collection mimics my bikes: Some are super
nice/pricey, some not so much.
On Friday, December 5, 2014 3:20:21 PM UTC-8,
Also: Ball end hex wrenches will save you time and heartache.
On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 3:58 PM, Chris Chen cc...@nougat.org wrote:
Just be careful. You can strip threads with a fancy tool too. Start all
threads with your hands. Don't over torque bolts. Invest in a can of good
anti-seize formula
Just be careful. You can strip threads with a fancy tool too. Start all
threads with your hands. Don't over torque bolts. Invest in a can of good
anti-seize formula and a tube of locktite.
Marvel how gorgeous loose bearings are when they're clean. And how good
Paul bearing grease smells when it
Lots of good advice here. Sometimes cheap can be fine. I'd wager that the
only difference between the Park digital caliper and the one I got at Harbor
Freight for $15 is the color of the electronics housing. But you'll never pry
my 3-way Park wrench out of my hands until I'm rubber side up
Seconded for the Park 3-way wrench, and good cable cutters (Park, too, in
my case).
On Friday, December 5, 2014 4:41:41 PM UTC-8, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro wrote:
Lots of good advice here. Sometimes cheap can be fine. I'd wager that
the only difference between the Park digital caliper and
For any project, I like to read, look at vids, and then check the Sheldon
Brown page, as there are sometimes important things to know that are not
always mentioned in just one source, like knowing not to use your stem
bottomed out in the steerer tube 'cuz it can fail if your steerer is
butted.
@ Peter: I guess as long as I don't do any frame damage, I can always
replace a component that doesn't fit right or work right or gets damaged.
@Patrick: I see, on the other hand, I can just make it fit!!! Ha ha!
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