VACList-Digest Monday, January 14, 2002 Issue 181
Today's Topics:
1. Interesting books
2. Re: replacment heater
3. Re: replacment heater
4. Replacement Heater
5. Adding Grey/Black Tanks
6. Inteli-volt installation
7. Re: Moderation
8. Re: Inteli-volt installation
9. Re: replacment heater
10. Postings
11. Re: Postings
12. Re: Postings
13. Removing Refrigerator door
14. Re: Removing Refrigerator door
15. Re: Removing Refrigerator door
16. Re: Cat heaters
17. Re: replacment heater
18. Re: Removing Refrigerator door
19. Re: replacement heater
20. Re: Inteli-volt installation
21. Restoring forced air heater
22. 1960 electrical
23. for sale
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Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 19:13:27 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Interesting books
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>From a posting on another list, I got this listing which includes some =
interesting trailer books. Have a look.
http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html
-Tom
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>From a posting on another list, I got =
this listing=20
which includes some interesting trailer books. Have a =
look.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html";>http://www.tinytears.cc/books=
.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:19:43 -0600
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacment heater
I use 2 mini ele heaters. I open the tambors under the stove and sink and
put the Pelonis heater there. then I put the other on the floor in the bath.
I stuff insulation in many forms. anything from plastic bags stuffed with
hay to blankets to fiberglas and that bubble stuff around the actual
plumbing. It doesn't get too cold in TX but we've gotten down to 20 degrees
outside and kept the temp inside at 65, we did'nt even have the heaters at
full blast. The bath is in the rear of the trailor,the hose to the trailor
frose but that was about it. the next time before we went to bed ,we just
diconnected the hose at the water pump.left it dripping there and opened the
water fausets inside to let of any pressure. in the morning when it warmed
up a little we screwed it . if we HAD to have water in the middle of the
night we just turned on the pump and use the reserve.
gina
>From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: replacment heater
>Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:53:12 -0500
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>
>Leslie, it was always my impression that for cold weather use (below
>freezing) the plumbing system in an Airstream depended on the routing of
>the
>furnace duct work for furnace heat to prevent freeze up and possible damage
>to the water lines. Would the radiant heat from a catalytic heater provide
>the same freeze protection without forced air circulation? Maybe some
>vintage owners with catalytic heaters could tell us. I'm interested because
>I'm not entirely comfortable with the furnace in my Tradewind and am
>considering whether to replace it.
>
>Jim Greene, Ph.D.
>' 68 Tradewind
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Leslie Dow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 10:59
>Subject: [VAC] replacment heater
>
>
> > Hi all,
> > I am in the process of replacing my heater in my 64 Globetrotter. All
> > of the talk about sputtering heaters really made me concerned that mine
> > might not be up to snuff. So I pulled mine apart yesterday and
> > discovered that mine was not original and that the venting was
> > completely hacked. Literally with duct tape and baling wire! The
> > heater itself is very rusted and does not work consistently. Needless
> > to say it is now in the trash!
> >
> > I have been doing some searches of the archives and the web and am
> > trying to decide between a standard propane heater and a catalytic
> > heater. I like the idea of the catalytic heater because it is zero
> > clearance and fuel efficient. I do not like the idea that most of them
> > are not vented! I want a vented heater. I have looked at the Platinum
> > Cat heater (http://www.omnicast.net/arnie/profile.html) and the Olympian
> > (http://www.uscatalytic.com/). The Olympian is not vented. This really
> > bothers me because of the potential of accumulation of inefficient
> > combustion byproducts as the product ages and the issue with
> > condensation build up in the trailer. I could replace with the standard
> > Suburban or Atwood heater. They seem pretty reasonable albeit not
> > terribly attractive....
> >
> > I have searched the VAC archives and have found a couple of emails on
> > this topic. I guess I am looking for any more comments that anyone has
> > on heaters....
> > I am looking for comments on heater choices. Specifically, energy
> > efficiency, ease of use, industrial design etc.
> >
> > thanks!
> > leslie
> > 64 Globetrotter
> >
> > --
> >
> > --
> > Leslie Johnston-Dow, Ph.D.
> > Sequencing Software Group Lead, Applied Biosystems
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] 650-638-5104 KG6HSG
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:09:56 -0700
From: JerePotter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacment heater
Leslie-
I have a 64 GT also, and it has a non-forced air furnace, up front, just
opposite the entry door. It has no thermostat, only a twist dial to set the
temp. It heats by by convection, the colder air traveling up and being
vented warm at the top. When I got the trailer last august, I inspected it
thoroughly- it looked brand new, like it had never been used. The paint was
still shiny (not repainted). The exhaust is out the side of the trailer. It
seems to work fine, but have not really put it to the test. Only time I used
it the pilot provided enough heat overnight. I would like to take it for a
winter camp soon. Before I do that I will test it at home with the CO
detector plugged in while running the furnace full blast.
The vents in the bathroom are to let the warmed room air back into the
plumbing area to prevent freezes. Mine has two, just under the toilet.
I almost prefer this to the forced air furnace in my Safari, which I worry
about using up battery power, even though I don't set the thermostat very
high. This one I know burns clean. It has venting to the rear areas where
the plumbing is, and a vent to the Black water tank, too. Two vents in the
trailer itself.
Jere Potter #1877
'64 Safari
'64 Globetrotter
on 1/13/02 11:31 AM, Leslie Dow at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> the trailer. Interestingly, there is a grille for a vent in the
> bathroom. I wonder if there was once ducting from the furnace to the heater?
>
> Anybody out there know what the original heating set up was for a
> Globetrotter?
> thanks
> leslie
>
> James Greene wrote:
>>
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:22:17 -0800
From: Charles Willson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Replacement Heater
Hi Leslie,
I also have a 64 Globetrotter. I replaced the very rusty original heater
with a Platinum Cat from Arnie in the Spring of last year. I have used it on
3 cold weather trips and find it does a great job. The heater has many
safety features and as far as I know is the ONLY fully vented heater out
there. I can send you pictures of the installation and exterior panel I
installed if interested.
Charles
----------------
Santa Cruz, CA
'64 Globetrotter
'56 Caravanner
----------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 22:29:37 -0800
From: Charles Willson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Adding Grey/Black Tanks
I am in the planning stages for a major restoration on a 56 Caravanner. The
56 came with a toilet, no shower and no storage tank. I would like to
rebuild the toilet area into a shower. Most of the campgrounds I go to have
toilets but no showers.
Does anyone have information on adding a grey or black tank to a trailer? I
presume it needs to be wide and flat and would install below the floor for
drainage. Any instructions, pictures or guidance would be greatly
appreciated as I plan for this task.
Thanks as always!
Charles
----------------
Santa Cruz, CA
'64 Globetrotter
'56 Caravanner
----------------
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Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 00:07:55 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Inteli-volt installation
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Dear Friends:
I bought the Inteli-volt 9100 series 60 amp unit with Charge Wizard to se=
e if this would fix my 12 volt problems on my 1969 Overlander. When I go=
t into it I saw my trailer had a Newmark charger/inverter unit insted of =
a Univolt. Getting it out was very simple, but there are a couple questi=
ons re: installing the Inteli-volt. First, the AC input is a grounded pl=
ug & I assume I'll install an AC receptacle there where the Newmark was h=
ard wired.
1) Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting a GFCI outlet there? M=
y instincts suggest this might be more trouble down the road w/ frequent =
tripping of the breaker.
2) the DC output from the Newmark was four colored wires (red, yellow, gr=
ey, blue) from four fused terminals. These had amperage ratings from 10 =
to 30 amps. The Inteli-volt has two positive & two negative terminals a=
nd two 30 amp fuses. Anyone know what goes where? I had noticed after a=
flurry of posting on "filtered" 12V issues that my cell phone charger wo=
rked in the rear bath cigarette lighter plug but not in the lighter recep=
tacle by the TV shelf. This led me to believe that the latter was unfilt=
ered with the Newmark. I also had significant AC current running along a=
12V line from measuring at the rear control panel (probable cause of 2 d=
ead car stereo units I had installed).
Thanks for your wisdom & patience
Jeff Miller
KCMO
69 Overamper
01 Durango
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV> </DIV> <=
DIV> Dear Friends:</DIV> <DIV>I bought the Inteli-volt 9100 series 6=
0 amp unit with Charge Wizard to see if this would fix my 12 volt problem=
s on my 1969 Overlander. When I got into it I saw my trailer had a =
Newmark charger/inverter unit insted of a Univolt. Getting it out w=
as very simple, but there are a couple questions re: installing the Intel=
i-volt. First, the AC input is a grounded plug & I assume I'll =
install an AC receptacle there where the Newmark was hard wired.</DIV> <D=
IV>1) Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting a GFCI outlet there?=
My instincts suggest this might be more trouble down the road w/ f=
requent tripping of the breaker.</DIV> <DIV>2) the DC output from the New=
mark was four colored wires (red, yellow, grey, blue) from four fused ter=
minals. These had amperage ratings from 10 to 30 amps. The In=
teli-volt has two positive & two negative terminals and two 30 =
amp fuses. Anyone know what goes where? I had noticed after a=
flurry of posting on "filtered" 12V issues that my cell phone charger wo=
rked in the rear bath cigarette lighter plug but not in the lighter recep=
tacle by the TV shelf. This led me to believe that the latter was u=
nfiltered with the Newmark. I also had significant AC current runni=
ng along a 12V line from measuring at the rear control panel (probable ca=
use of 2 dead car stereo units I had installed).</DIV> <DIV>Thanks for yo=
ur wisdom & patience</DIV> <DIV>Jeff Miller</DIV> <DIV>KCMO</DIV> <DI=
V>69 Overamper</DIV> <DIV>01 Durango</DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 02:26:40 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Moderation
Dear VAC members,
We are anxious to fit within the VAC guidelines and don't need to promote a
business venture on the VAC list and we think we've got the gist of what was
the concern of Scott and Toby.
We did get some very interesting feedback on our questions about how to
layout and design our Vintage trailer and Airstream rv and campground. So
thanks to those who responded even if it was not within the VAC guidelines!
On to another subject. We took some photos today to assist people who will be
refinishing thier wood and might like to see the sanders, glue, brushes,
verithane and polyurethane products we used. Some before and after panels
will also appear in those shots. We don't have a website yet so just send us
an email and we'll try to get the info back to you. Bye for now, Stuart and
Bonnie.
* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY THE
SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 07:54:18 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Inteli-volt installation
Jeff,
1. You don't want or need a GFCI receptacle to feed the InteliPower.
2. It's hard to tell from here, but you'll likely want to connect the
IP's 2 positive outputs to the 2 positive wires that the Newmark
attached to; same with the negative wires.
<<Jim>>
Jeffrey Miller wrote:
>
>
> Dear Friends:
>
> I bought the Inteli-volt 9100 series 60 amp unit with Charge Wizard to
> see if this would fix my 12 volt problems on my 1969 Overlander. When I
> got into it I saw my trailer had a Newmark charger/inverter unit insted
> of a Univolt. Getting it out was very simple, but there are a couple
> questions re: installing the Inteli-volt. First, the AC input is a
> grounded plug & I assume I'll install an AC receptacle there where the
> Newmark was hard wired.
>
> 1) Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting a GFCI outlet there?
> My instincts suggest this might be more trouble down the road w/
> frequent tripping of the breaker.
>
> 2) the DC output from the Newmark was four colored wires (red, yellow,
> grey, blue) from four fused terminals. These had amperage ratings from
> 10 to 30 amps. The Inteli-volt has two positive & two negative
> terminals and two 30 amp fuses. Anyone know what goes where? I had
> noticed after a flurry of posting on "filtered" 12V issues that my cell
> phone charger worked in the rear bath cigarette lighter plug but not in
> the lighter receptacle by the TV shelf. This led me to believe that the
> latter was unfiltered with the Newmark. I also had significant AC
> current running along a 12V line from measuring at the rear control
> panel (probable cause of 2 dead car stereo units I had installed).
>
> Thanks for your wisdom & patience
>
> Jeff Miller
>
> KCMO
>
> 69 Overamper
>
> 01 Durango
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 10:15:58 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacment heater
on 01/13/02 10:59 AM, Leslie Dow at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I like the idea of the catalytic heater because it is zero clearance and fuel
> efficient. I do not like the idea that most of them are not vented! I want a
> vented heater.
>
> The Olympian is not vented. This really bothers me because of the potential
> of accumulation of inefficient combustion byproducts as the product ages and
> the issue with condensation build up in the trailer.
Hi Leslie,
During the 1960s, I felt the same as you just outlined. When I learned about
the non-air tight quality of our Airstream (easily learned on a windy day by
holding a lit candle near edges of the door and windows), I reconsidered my
assumptions.
At about the same time, I came across an article showing that a 10" by 1"
opening was more than sufficient to deal with combustion byproducts of a
catalytic heater.
With that as a benchmark, each time our family used the catalytic heater in
our trailer, we opened the access door (size 30" by 4") under the
refrigerator (directly in front of the fridge ventilation hole in the floor)
and went merrily on our way. For years, we used our catalytic heaters that
way, even when we owned other brands of travel trailers.
Included in those years were family trips during cold weather (late Fall and
early Spring) with our two children and golden retriever (who slept on the
floor). Never once did we notice combustion odors nor did any of us have
headaches or discomfort. And our dog was frisky, friendly and obedient while
he lived to a ripe old age.
As for condensation from using our catalytic heaters, we wiped it up with
scrap towels, all the while knowing it would come back again. Nothing new
there.
But, when using our factory furnace (propane and 12 volt blower), the
condensation was less because of the hot, dry air being circulated. That
was one of our reasons for installing solar panels on all our Airstreams. We
wanted abundant 12 volt power after running our furnace at night while
parked on boondock sites without electrical hookups.
Eventually, we started looking for a "bigger and better" Airstream. At the
time, we knew enough about Airstreams to limit our search only to those
models with thermopane windows and the extra frame supports (Excella 500s
with a back bathroom).
Our '77 31' Airstream met that criteria. To this day (01/13/02), it is our
vehicle of choice during the nine months we play Snowbird in the southern
states. We splurged with 3 batteries and 3 solar panels.
A few days ago, I replied to a post by a member on the Airstream list (not
the VAC list) which dealt with another aspect of heating our Airstream. The
'86 32' Airstream mention in the example was sold in July 2001. A copy of
that post is included. Maybe there is something among these ideas that will
prove useful to you.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
'63 22' Airstream Flying Cloud - 3,000 BTU CAT > 15+ years old
'67 22' Airstream Safari - 6,000 BTU CAT > 5 years old
'77 31' Airstream Excella 500 - 6,000 BTU CAT > 15+ years old
-----------------------------------------
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2002 17:20:44 -0500
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S]Radiant Heat
on 01/09/02 7:20 PM, Arnie at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi, I think you have hit on all the negatives. I have a propane
> catalytic heater in my 78. I like it alot. No power consumption and
> no noise. I mounted it to a hinged plate so I can swing it aroud
> toward the rear bedroom at nite. Another fella on the site said he
> thought a 3" muffin fan would do well to move the heat around. I
> haven't tried that yet.
Hi Arnie,
I don't know about the fella who said he thought a 3" muffin fan would do
well to move the heat around.
But, I am one Airstreamer who actually did install a 3" muffin fan to move
warmed air from his curbside catalytic heater to the far corners in his '86
32' Airstream (center bath model).
The fan was installed high at the front corner on the streetside and aimed
directly toward the rear. The 12 volt wire and switch to the fan were routed
along the inside bottom of the window valence to a nearby 12 volt line.
Did it work? Like a charm! The muffin fan's power consumption was
negligible; the noise was barely discernable; both Sandie and I were warm
whether we were sitting on the front couch or at the center dinette.
I opted for the permanent installation of our CAT instead of a hinged plate
because the dinette would be too close in the rearward facing position.
Like others have mentioned, we left bathroom cupboard doors ajar to keep the
plumbing warm. Had we expected temps in the 20s, I would have installed a
3,000 BTU catalytic heater at floor level opposite the bathroom. Although
perhaps redundant, I would have installed a muffin fan beside the CAT at
floor level. Because the area behind the CAT is also below the closets,
connecting the propane and 12 volt power would have been easy.
When a friend did that (center bath floor plan), I noticed his CAT intruded
2" into the area. For perspective, the closet doors and handles that are
opposite the bathroom intruded 2" into the walking area (as my elbows can
attest). At floor level, the walking space below the closet doors was roomy.
On a related note, I found that thin clear plastic sheeting is as easy to
install in the screen channels as is new screen. It's not perfect for
approximating storm windows, but it's better than plain screening.
The really good storm windows (thermopane) are those Airstream installed at
the factory. We have them in our '77 31' Excella 500 and notice a real
difference when compared to our '86 32' Excella with standard glass (both in
the summer and winter). That's one reason we use our '77 in the Winter.
Also, pull shades seem more effective at keeping the interior warm than
venetian blinds.
Today (01/10/02), we're in southwest Florida (Punta Gorda) with our '77 31'.
Each night this week, local residents have covered their outside plants for
protection against freezing temperatures. That behavior tells its own story.
Cold weather has doggedly found us every year for the last 12 Januarys
regardless of which of the nine southern states we've been in with our
Airstream. Only when our Airstream has been 600 miles south of the tip of
Texas (in Guadalajara) have we avoided cold weather in January.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Theodore Roosevelt
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:48:44 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Postings
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I sent the following e-mail last night to the list, but it never showed =
up..................Dunno if all postings are getting through. the =
traffic seems awful light recently.
-Tom
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-------
>From a posting on another list, I got this listing which includes some =
interesting trailer books. Have a look.
http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html
-Tom
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I sent the following e-mail last night =
to the list,=20
but it never showed up..................Dunno if all postings are =
getting=20
through. the traffic seems awful light recently.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<HR>
</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>From a posting on another list, I got =
this listing=20
which includes some interesting trailer books. Have a =
look.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html";>http://www.tinytears.cc/books=
.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:56:50 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Postings
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Tom, your original e-mail got through to me on the 13th.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Tom Patterson=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 9:48 AM
Subject: [VAC] Postings
I sent the following e-mail last night to the list, but it never =
showed up..................Dunno if all postings are getting through. =
the traffic seems awful light recently.
=20
-Tom
=20
-------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
=20
From a posting on another list, I got this listing which includes some =
interesting trailer books. Have a look.
=20
http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html
=20
-Tom
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Tom, your original e-mail got through =
to me on the=20
13th.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"=20
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Tom Patterson</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Multiple=20
recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 14, 2002 =
9:48=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Postings</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I sent the following e-mail last =
night to the=20
list, but it never showed up..................Dunno if all postings =
are=20
getting through. the traffic seems awful light =
recently.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>
<HR>
</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>From a posting on another list, I got =
this=20
listing which includes some interesting trailer books. Have a=20
look.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
=
href=3D"http://www.tinytears.cc/books.html";>http://www.tinytears.cc/books=
.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial =
size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:01:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Postings
I got it last night - GOOD LINK! Thank you!
Toby
--- Tom Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I sent the following e-mail last night to the list,
> but it never showed up..................Dunno if all
> postings are getting through. the traffic seems
> awful light recently.
>
> -Tom
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:01:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Removing Refrigerator door
Hey all - I'm finally back in the swing of things - in
the process of gutting my 1960 Tradewind and restoring
things as they come out. The weather has been mild in
Minnesota - so I'm going to take advantage of it.
I need to remove the door from my original dometic
fridge - never done that before - but it seems to me
that there are pins to pull out - but it looks like
there's one on the top and one on the bottom of each
hinge.
they didn't come out with a couple/few gentle whacks -
so before I do damage - I thought I'd ask the list
who knows how to get the fridge door off?
* * *
Status update: 1.14.02
curbside cabinets are loose - waiting to get the
fridge out before I remove and start rebuilding those.
Working my way clock-wise trying to restore parts as
they come out - I may have some original hardware up
for grabs if I decide not to re-use.
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
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------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 09:57:29 -0800
From: "Gary Quamen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Removing Refrigerator door
> I need to remove the door from my original dometic
> fridge - never done that before - but it seems to me
> that there are pins to pull out - but it looks like
> there's one on the top and one on the bottom of each
> hinge.
>
> they didn't come out with a couple/few gentle whacks -
> so before I do damage - I thought I'd ask the list
>
> who knows how to get the fridge door off?
Hey Toby:
If it's like my M52 was, there is a single long threaded hinge pin that goes
from top to bottom of the door. There is a threaded nut like thing under
the bottom hinge that must be unscrewed and the hinge pin pulled out from
the top. If I remember correctly (!), the top of the hinge pin has a hex
to get a socket on as well as the nut on the bottom.
Good luck,
GQ '67 Safari
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 12:09:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Removing Refrigerator door
I think it's actually got 3 hinges - but I also think
I've got an M52.
I'll head up one of these nights and take a picture -
maybe that will help.
THANKS -
T
> Hey Toby:
>
> If it's like my M52 was, there is a single long
> threaded hinge pin that goes
> from top to bottom of the door. There is a threaded
> nut like thing under
> the bottom hinge that must be unscrewed and the
> hinge pin pulled out from
> the top. If I remember correctly (!), the top of
> the hinge pin has a hex
> to get a socket on as well as the nut on the bottom.
>
> Good luck,
>
> GQ '67 Safari
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:51:56 -0800
From: "chyde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cat heaters
Leslie,
I was at my local hardware store today and noticed an infared (Cat) heater
on sale for $369.99. It was a 30,000 BTU unit so I think it was far to
large for our requirements however I did check out their website and they do
have other models available. Their website is www.martinindustries.com . I'm
looking into a new furnace or aquiring a safe classic model for our trailer
as well.
Colin
57 Sovereign of the Road
> From: Leslie Dow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: replacment heater
>
> Thanks for the info, Phil. Are your vented Cats of the Platinum Cat
> brand from the manufacturer in Washington? I have been looking for
> another maker of a vented Cat heater.
> thanks
> leslie
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 14:02:37 -0700
From: "phil patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacment heater
My vented catalytic heaters are the platinum cats made in Washington state.
They were put in by my uncle about 14 years ago. The only problems I have
had were dirty contacts on one of the thermostats.
_________________________________________________________________
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:52:20 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Removing Refrigerator door
At 09:01 AM 1/14/02 -0800, Toby Folwick wrote:
>I need to remove the door from my original dometic
>fridge - never done that before - but it seems to me
>that there are pins to pull out - but it looks like
>there's one on the top and one on the bottom of each
>hinge.
The hinge pins should unscrew from the hinge plate (the pin is
threaded where it goes through the plate)- then you might have to pry it a
bit. First remove the top pin, tilt the freezer door out and work it back
and forth to get it off of the middle hinge pin, then unscrew the middle
hinge pin and do the same for the lower door.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 16:56:41 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: replacement heater
A note about replacement heaters- if anyone is going to use a
forced air heater, Atwood/Hydroflame has a *neat* new model out- The
Excalibur XT. It has a two speed motor, with high and low btu flames. The
smallest one I see is the Model 1522- 22,000 btus on high, 15,000 btus on
low- draws 6.5 amps dc high, 3 amps dc low.
I haven't seen any, and know nothing about the reliability (I tend
to not want to buy products when they are first released).
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:24:25 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Inteli-volt installation
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Jeff: I installed a 55 amp InteliPower (and the Charge Wizard) in my ' =
68 Tradewind. It replaced a Univolt of that vintage. There were three =
wires going to the Univolt -- a white chassis ground, a white negative =
and a red positive) and two wires out -- a white negative and a red =
positive. My installation was less complicated than yours. All the =
outputs from the InteliPower are filtered.
On a ' 68 model the Univolt (and the InteliPower) are housed under the =
bathroom sink and right next to the hot water heater. I decided to mount =
my unit on a slightly raised platform just in case I sprung a leak =
sometime.=20
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Jeffrey Miller=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2002 1:07
Subject: [VAC] Inteli-volt installation
Dear Friends:
I bought the Inteli-volt 9100 series 60 amp unit with Charge Wizard to =
see if this would fix my 12 volt problems on my 1969 Overlander. When I =
got into it I saw my trailer had a Newmark charger/inverter unit insted =
of a Univolt. Getting it out was very simple, but there are a couple =
questions re: installing the Inteli-volt. First, the AC input is a =
grounded plug & I assume I'll install an AC receptacle there where the =
Newmark was hard wired.
1) Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting a GFCI outlet there? =
My instincts suggest this might be more trouble down the road w/ =
frequent tripping of the breaker.
2) the DC output from the Newmark was four colored wires (red, yellow, =
grey, blue) from four fused terminals. These had amperage ratings from =
10 to 30 amps. The Inteli-volt has two positive & two negative =
terminals and two 30 amp fuses. Anyone know what goes where? I had =
noticed after a flurry of posting on "filtered" 12V issues that my cell =
phone charger worked in the rear bath cigarette lighter plug but not in =
the lighter receptacle by the TV shelf. This led me to believe that the =
latter was unfiltered with the Newmark. I also had significant AC =
current running along a 12V line from measuring at the rear control =
panel (probable cause of 2 dead car stereo units I had installed).
Thanks for your wisdom & patience
Jeff Miller
KCMO
69 Overamper
01 Durango
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4807.2300" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY=20
style=3D"BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt =
verdana; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none"=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Jeff: I installed a 55 amp InteliPower (and =
the=20
Charge Wizard) in my ' 68 Tradewind. It replaced a Univolt of that =
vintage. There were three wires going to the Univolt -- a white chassis =
ground,=20
a white negative and a red positive) and two wires out -- a white =
negative and a=20
red positive. My installation was less complicated than yours. All the =
outputs=20
from the InteliPower are filtered.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>On a ' 68 model the Univolt (and the =
InteliPower) are=20
housed under the bathroom sink and right next to the hot water heater. I =
decided=20
to mount my unit on a slightly raised platform just in case I sprung a =
leak=20
sometime. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Jeffrey =
Miller</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 14, 2002 =
1:07</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Inteli-volt=20
installation</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> Dear Friends:</DIV>
<DIV>I bought the Inteli-volt 9100 series 60 amp unit with Charge =
Wizard to=20
see if this would fix my 12 volt problems on my 1969 Overlander. =
When I=20
got into it I saw my trailer had a Newmark charger/inverter unit =
insted of a=20
Univolt. Getting it out was very simple, but there are a couple=20
questions re: installing the Inteli-volt. First, the AC input is =
a=20
grounded plug & I assume I'll install an AC receptacle there where =
the=20
Newmark was hard wired.</DIV>
<DIV>1) Is there any advantage/disadvantage to putting a GFCI outlet=20
there? My instincts suggest this might be more trouble down the =
road w/=20
frequent tripping of the breaker.</DIV>
<DIV>2) the DC output from the Newmark was four colored wires (red, =
yellow,=20
grey, blue) from four fused terminals. These had amperage =
ratings from=20
10 to 30 amps. The Inteli-volt has two positive & two =
negative =20
terminals and two 30 amp fuses. Anyone know what goes =
where? I had=20
noticed after a flurry of posting on "filtered" 12V issues that my =
cell phone=20
charger worked in the rear bath cigarette lighter plug but not in the =
lighter=20
receptacle by the TV shelf. This led me to believe that the =
latter was=20
unfiltered with the Newmark. I also had significant AC current =
running=20
along a 12V line from measuring at the rear control panel (probable =
cause of 2=20
dead car stereo units I had installed).</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks for your wisdom & patience</DIV>
<DIV>Jeff Miller</DIV>
<DIV>KCMO</DIV>
<DIV>69 Overamper</DIV>
<DIV>01 Durango</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:47:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Restoring forced air heater
I've been thinking about restoring the old Thurm
heater in my trailer - forced air - doesn't seem to be
much to the workings of it - with a thorough
cleaning/restoration is there anything I should watch
out for for safety sake?
I'm trying to keep new parts (or updated systems)
under-covers as it were to maintain much of the
integrity of the original trailer.
--- Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A note about replacement heaters- if anyone
> is going to use a
> forced air heater, Atwood/Hydroflame has a *neat*
> new model out- The
> Excalibur XT. It has a two speed motor, with high
> and low btu flames. The
> smallest one I see is the Model 1522- 22,000 btus on
> high, 15,000 btus on
> low- draws 6.5 amps dc high, 3 amps dc low.
> I haven't seen any, and know nothing about
> the reliability (I tend
> to not want to buy products when they are first
> released).
>
>
> ________
>
> Chris Bryant
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format,
> please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all
> unnecessary original text
>
>
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
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------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 15:53:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1960 electrical
Haven't gotten too far into the electrical portion yet
- that comes after all the inside panels come out - I
hear alot about the intelli-power and the univolt -
can anybody with a 1960 or older tell me how the
charging system worked (in real general terms) in the
older ones? was there a charger/converter/inverter of
some sort? I guess I've always been under the
impression that the univolt came later. It appears
that the previous owner of mine installed a loose
breaker box in the rear of mine near the blackwater
tank (1960 tradewind rear bath) but the original AC
power circuit came in through a standard female AC
socket that's sticking out of the curbside of my
trailer.
thanks - Toby
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
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------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 19:18:13 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: for sale
I spotted this in the Monroe (MI) Evening News:
1967 Airstream Tri-Coach, great condition. Good for hunters. $1800.00
734-243-6649
The location would be in/around Monroe, MI, about 17 miles north of the
Ohio line on I-75. I know nothing more than what was in the ad; if
someone is seriously interested, I could probably take a look at it for
them.
<<Jim>>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
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