VACList-Digest Friday, January 25, 2002 Issue 192
Today's Topics:
1. Re: VAC Restoration Project
2. Re: 1976 A/S at RV Trader
3. Re:
4. 1968 Ambassador
5. VAC Restoration Project
6. Re: Hitch set up
7. Seen advise
8. Refrigerator work
9. Re:
10. Re: Seen advise
11. Re: Seen advise
12. Re: Refrigerator work
13. Re:
14. Looking for retirees with airstreams
15. Re:
16. Re: VAC Restoration Project
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:19:52 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: VAC Restoration Project
Wow, that's serious stuff there, keep those photos coming!
Daisy
"Wayne A. Moore" wrote:
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Restoration Project!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> As some of you know I'm in the process of restoring a '65 Caravel.
> This weekend I removed the body shell from the frame and dragged the
> frame out to be repaired. This trailer had taken a rough ride off the road
> and the frame was broken in 4 places so I'm having all the repairs done by a
> friend.
> Check out this link for the pics!!
>
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=/%2765+Caravel&.src=ph&.view=t
>
> Hopefully I will get the frame back his weekend so I can start sandblast and
> paint and maybe get the shell back on the frame. Then I will continue to
> replace all the lower outside Aluminum shell with .040 Alclad 2024T3 sheets
> purchased from Aircraftspruce:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catmain.php?dest=cathome.html
>
> The existing panels have deep gouges, dents, old utility holes and are in
> generally poor condition. Keep checking back to monitor my progress!
>
> Later
>
> WAM
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:30:40 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1976 A/S at RV Trader
That was exactly my point. Unless you plan to strip and have it recoated,
you might be disappointed with the exterior of this coach. It also has gobs
of silicone on the seams. It does, however, seem very functional and has
great potential.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Don Hardman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 6:09 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: 1976 A/S at RV Trader
> I would probably think that most mid 70 A/S would have some degree of
> clearcoat problems at this time, but that can be taken care of with
> stripping and polishing. The clearcoat on my 76 was very bad when I got it
2
> years ago but the skin was in good shape as this one appears to be.
Although
> I have not polished mine yet, stripping the clearcoat did make a big
> difference as the pictures on my website show.
>
> http://home.att.net/~dhardman/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
>
> Finding any Vintage A/S virtually intact today is getting harder and
harder
> to do and this one looks like a good candidate to be rescued before
someone
> turns it into a U-Haul or hauls it up to the deer lease.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John R. Kleven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2002 2:35 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re: 1976 A/S at RV Trader
>
>
> > I have looked at this trailer. It is in pretty good shape inside and
has
> > the rear double bed. The reason I didn't make an offer on it is because
> the
> > street side had completely faded from the way it was stored over the
> years.
> > It looked horrible to me. If somebody wants one to polish, it is a
great
> > deal.
> > Randy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > http://adcache.rvtraderonline.com/3/9/1/1032591.htm
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 20:55:45 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Terry,
Most of the trailer is standard, not special to Airstream, the
appliances, the plumbing,gas and lighting stuff and the brakes, wheels,
and hitch can be checked by any RV place that has a good service dept.
It's worth some time and effort to find a good one nearby. Mine does my
winterizing for less than the antifreeze would cost me at Wally World,
and tell me off if they think I am not being a good vintage airstream
mother. ! Good folks who care.
Daisy
"Rockfield, Terry A." wrote:
>
> I recently sent and E-mail to A/S and got a call about having my
> 1971 A/S checked out.
>
> Matt (I think not real could with names) said that They had a 25 point
> check for 250
>
> dollars that covered everything.
>
> I would have to call service (Brad?) and make an appointment. I called
> brad he said that
>
> the cost of going over older units usually ran into much more time and
> they could not do it
>
> for 250 dollars. I asked well then how much. No specific reply or
> amount, whatever it took
>
> I guess, billing would be well in excess of 250. Asking about
> recharging, the Air Cond
>
> on roof .., he inidciated they could not be recharged were usually
> through aways.
>
> the amonia refrigerator were usually not repairable either. The guy
> that hauls trailers
>
> for them wanted 200 for round trip from my home about 50 mi from
> jacksoncenter.
>
> And sai his insurance did not cover pulling someone elses trailer so
> I should make sure
>
> I was insured. Well I thanked the boys and siad I will take care
> of it myself.
>
> Though you all should know this for what ever.
>
> Terry A. Roc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: VACList [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 7:33 PM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> VACList-Digest Wednesday, January 23, 2002 Issue 190
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. This is a test - ignore
> 2. Tow Available......
> 3. Re:
> 4. Re:
> 5. Re: 1958 Overlander Questions
> 6. Washington, DC Unit 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally
> 7. Acid wash
> 8. Re: Acid wash
> 9. Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
> 10. Re: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:26:25 -0600
> From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: This is a test - ignore
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_011F_01C1A372.4D276070
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> Please ignore this test. Sorry for the inconvenience.
>
> -Tom
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_011F_01C1A372.4D276070
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2712.300" name=3DGENERATOR>
> <STYLE></STYLE>
> </HEAD>
> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Please ignore this test. Sorry =
> for the=20
> inconvenience.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>-Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
> ------=_NextPart_000_011F_01C1A372.4D276070--
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:56:23 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Tow Available......
>
> Got a tow vehicle going from SF to So Cal on Feb 5th if anyone needs a
> trailer moved!
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 3
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:09:53 -0600
> From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re:
>
> Jim,
>
> If you are not getting the VAC mail yet, you might enjoy this digest
> which just came out.
>
> -Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 6:31 PM
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> > VACList-Digest Tuesday, January 22, 2002 Issue 189
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. RV Storage
> > 2. Re: /black tank 54 safari
> > 3. Vintage Airstream Rally - April 18-21 near Pensacola FL
> > 4. Re: /black tank 54 safari
> > 5. 1958 Overlander Parts
> > 6. Re: Rust
> > 7. Re: RV Storage
> > 8. Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> > 9. Re: RV Storage
> > 10. Black Water tank support pictures
> > 11. Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> > 12. Re: Frame rust
> > 13. Fwd: 1949 Vagabond Travel Trailer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Message Number: 1
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:52:16 -0700
> > From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: RV Storage
> >
> > Greetings,
> >
> > Thanks to everyone on and off the list who has helped answer our
> > questions over the past six months. We are finally the proud new owners
> > of a 1958 Overlander!! Unfortunately, we won't be able to use it for a
> > few weeks, as I have to have dental surgery. We are in need of a
> > storage facility or inexpensive RV park in the Phoenix, Arizona area for
> > about a month. It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> > 1950's vintage trailers. If anyone has such information, please feel
> > free to contact me off list, it would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ted (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 2
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:07:49 -0500
> > From: jim graves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: /black tank 54 safari
> >
> >
> > hey folks,
> >
> > can anybody help me locate a black tank that will fit a 54 safari. can it
> > mount between floor and the belly pan? it had an external unit that looked
> > like a colostomy bag that had mercifully been destroyed by a speed bump.
> > also, what is the prevailing wisdom on underfloor insulation.
> >
> > jim graves
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 3
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:20:33 -0600
> > From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Vintage Airstream Rally - April 18-21 near Pensacola FL
> >
> > The Pensacola WBCCI unit invites Airstreamers with vintage trailers to
> attend a
> > rally at Mystic Springs Airstream Park on April 18-21. Details are posted
> on the
> > VAC site now as an upcoming event. This event is a trial to see how many
> vintage
> > airstreams and VAC members are in the Gulf Coast area. Hope you can
> attend!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 4
> > Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:27:23 -0600
> > From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: /black tank 54 safari
> >
> > My 63 Globetrotter's black tank actually sits on top of the floor and is
> in a
> > plywood box about 7 " high. The box has a plywood top that acts as the
> floor
> > on which the toilet is mounted. The fiberglass tank is shaped to fit the
> rear
> > curved wall of the trailer and it hold about 8 or 9 gallons.
> >
> > jim graves wrote:
> >
> > > hey folks,
> > >
> > > can anybody help me locate a black tank that will fit a 54 safari. can
> it
> > > mount between floor and the belly pan? it had an external unit that
> looked
> > > like a colostomy bag that had mercifully been destroyed by a speed bump.
> > > also, what is the prevailing wisdom on underfloor insulation.
> > >
> > > jim graves
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 5
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 00:46:06 -0700
> > From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: 1958 Overlander Parts
> >
> > Greetings (again!),
> >
> > As stated in a prior email, we have just purchased a 1958 Overlander
> > twin model. The sale will be completed today, so I have not yet joined
> > the WBCCI or the VAC, but they are high on the list of priorities. We're
> > excited and proud to finally be actively participating in this
> > fascinating community!
> >
> > Right off the bat, I'd like to pester y'all with several questions:
> >
> > 1. Is it possible to find any information on this model and year of
> > trailer? I'm looking for an owner's manual, and any information on the
> > original appliances and fixtures. I know service manuals aren't
> > available, but I'm also interested in any and all service information
> > that might be available. Also a wiring diagram, if available, would be a
> > great help.
> >
> > 2. We need a complete window frame for the rear street side. It looks
> > like the original was either accidently pulled off, or intentionally
> > removed. The previous owner says the person that he purchased it from,
> > had tried to put an air conditioner in the window, and the frame is
> > missing. I'm pretty sure it's a Hehr, though I have no idea what model
> > number it is, I can provide the size if it's any help.
> >
> > 3. It still has what looks like an original Kreft fridge. It works fine
> > on propane, but the electric heating element is kaput. Does anyone know
> > where to find a suitable replacement?
> >
> > 4. The faucets in the shower leak at the handles. Can this be repaired
> > with off-the-shelf parts from the hardware store, or do we need
> > specialty parts?
> >
> > Any advice, tips, and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for
> > being here!
> >
> > Ted Byrd
> > 1958 Overlander :)
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 6
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 05:45:56 -0500
> > From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: Rust
> >
> > Hi Jim, Sounds like the way to go to be safe. Thanks for the info. Dave
> >
> > Snip: To find out how far back the rust damage went, I simply cut off the
> > 'A'
> > frame about 4" ahead of the trailer body. Although I was prepared to go
> > back as far as I had to to fix it, the frame looked pretty good at that
> > point. So, we fabricated a replacement, including a new hitch from
> > Northern Tool & Equipment (looked almost exactly like the old one), and
> > welded it on.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 7
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:25:08 -0600
> > From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: RV Storage
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: T. Byrd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> > > 1950's vintage trailers.
> >
> > If they don't allow pets who would want to stay there. I have run across
> the
> > "older" trailer blacklist at a few RV parks, so not I just tell them that
> my
> > 1976 A/S is a 1986 A/S. They don't know the difference, and in fact my
> 1976
> > A/S looks better and is better condition than most newer SOB's anyway.
> >
> > Good luck with your new Vintage A/S
> >
> > Don Hardman
> > 1976 31' Sovereign
> > http://home.att.net/~dhardman/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 8
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:30:14 -0600
> > From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> >
> > Livingston's book on RV maintenance will show a generic wiring diagram.
> > That's more than there is for the really vintage Airstream. And its a
> > decent start. That book is a gold mine of maintenance help. It should be
> > in your hands. It may not cover your particular appliance but will help
> > in a generic way.
> >
> > A good small appliance repair shop may be able to make a new heating
> > element from nichrome wire if the insulators have survived from the old
> > refrigerator heating element.
> >
> > Often faucets need nothing more than tightening the gland nuts to
> > squeeze the packing tighter to the shafts. You may have to remove the
> > knobs to access the packing or gland nuts. You may have to remove the
> > packing and clean the shafts because sometimes pieces of packing stick
> > to the shafts and gets hard and so grinds out the working packing when
> > the faucet shaft is moved. The parts should be close to standard
> > hardware store shelf items.
> >
> > Gerald J.
> > --
> > Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
> > permission only.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 9
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:04:39 -0600
> > From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: RV Storage
> >
> > When I hit that problem...I just move on down the road and don't worry
> > about it. There are too many others that don't care about the trailers
> > age...or your pets.
> >
> > Vote with your fee.
> >
> >
> > Lefty Frizzell
> > http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
> >
> > ****
> > I can only please one person per day.
> > Today is not your day.
> > Tomorrow is not looking good either.
> > ****
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
> > Don Hardman
> > Sent: 22 January 02 09:25
> > To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> > Subject: [VAC] Re: RV Storage
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: T. Byrd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> > > 1950's vintage trailers.
> >
> > I
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 10
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:08:48 -0800 (PST)
> > From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Black Water tank support pictures
> >
> > I recently removed the black water tank from my 68
> > Overbudget. This should be pretty similar to your 66
> > Safari. I took lots of pictures.
> >
> > Now the bad news: I am notoriously slow about getting
> > prints, and of course, they have to be scanned as
> > well. I fully intend to post them "someday" on the
> > net.
> >
> > Are you in a hurry with this project? If so, I
> > suggest you keep looking. But, if you are doing your
> > planning well in advance (as we often do), these may
> > be just the ticket. I went to pains to get good shots
> > because there are so few available.
> >
> > Drop me a line off list. Anyone else is welcome to
> > nag me so that I don't take too long making them
> > available to the list.
> >
> > Jon in SC
> > 68 Overlander
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> > http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 11
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:19:49 -0700
> > From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> >
> > Thanks Doc :)
> >
> > "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
> > >
> > > Livingston's book on RV maintenance will show a generic wiring diagram.
> >
> > I've got Livingston's book, thanks to the recommendations from folks
> > here over the months. I'll take a look at the electrical section. I
> > spent a part of last night reading, and re-reading, the section on
> > servicing brakes and wheel bearings. :) It seems the 110v electrical
> > system is working fine at the moment. The umbilicus from the trailer to
> > the tow vehicle is UV damaged and the insulation has dried out and is
> > falling off in many places, leaving bare wires exposed. Hopefully it
> > won't be too difficult to trace down the connections and replace it.
> >
> > > A good small appliance repair shop may be able to make a new heating
> > > element from nichrome wire if the insulators have survived from the old
> > > refrigerator heating element.
> >
> > I have the entire original heating element assembly from the
> > refrigerator, I'll look into this. Thanks for the tip.
> >
> > > Often faucets need nothing more than tightening the gland nuts to
> > > squeeze the packing tighter to the shafts.
> >
> > I'll give this a try, I'm sure I'm going to get to know my True Value
> > hardware man very well in the near future. :)
> >
> > If anyone would like pictures of the coach, I'd be happy to pass them
> > along. This is a gem, with what looks like a completely original
> > interior (minus new paint, carpet, cushions, and carpet), and a fairly
> > straight body. Certainly looks better than the '58 Overlander that is
> > "melting" in the VintageAirstream.com photo archives. ;)
> >
> > BTW, if anyone knows of a 1958 or older Overlander that is being parted
> > out, I'd sure appreciate knowing about it. I suspect that's going to be
> > our only source for the replacement window, as well as some other parts.
> >
> > Ted Byrd
> > '58 Overlander
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 12
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:31:03 -0500
> > From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: Frame rust
> >
> > Hey Dave,
> >
> > Here's an experiment for you to try. It won't cost anything and it may not
> > have any validity. But, it worked for me once and put me hot on the trail
> > for getting a frame problem solved.
> >
> > Simple test. Hook up your Airstream with the spring bars at full strength
> > (grunt when you hoist them onto the saddle brackets).
> >
> > Then, roll forward or backward slightly and look at the front aluminum
> skin
> > (panel) under the stone screen. Don't see anything different? No buckling?
> > So much for phase 1.
> >
> > Then, find a driveway. Go down it and stop at the lowest point while the
> > trailer wheels still higher and are not into the driveway (maximum
> pressure
> > on the spring bars). Look at the front panel under the stone shield. Don't
> > see anything different? It still looks flat and secure? Possible
> conclusion.
> >
> > Rust hasn't reached the "too much" stage yet. The frame is still doing its
> > thing. It's not flexing from being rusted. It is still capable of
> > maintaining rigidity under minimal flexing conditions.
> >
> > End of experiment.
> >
> > Next step.
> >
> > Keep track of the emails from structural engineers who know what they are
> > talking about and forget about this experiment.
> >
> > Terry
> > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > ==============================
> >
> > on 01/21/02 4:38 AM, Red at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > > Hello,
> > > My 67' has rust damage on the "A" frame where the cable (the one that
> hooks
> > > to the tow vehicle) runs into the frame. It appears that over the years
> > > when it rains, snows the water follows the cable into the frame area and
> > > sits there and rusts the steel. How do you determine how much rust is
> to
> > > much? When looking into the frame with a flashlight you can see pitting
> on
> > > the bottom edge. The other side of the "A" frame appears to be OK.
> Thanks
> > > for any advice. Dave
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> > >
> > > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message Number: 13
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:06:46 -0800
> > From: Marie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Fwd: 1949 Vagabond Travel Trailer
> >
> >
> >
> > >Hi Gang,
> > >Just spotted this on ebay; it only had another 20 hours to go, sorry, but
> > >I haven't been my usual vigilant self recently.
> > >Same caveat as usual; if I was in the US, I'd buy it...
> > >love
> > >Marie
> > >
> > >
> >
> >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600452850
> &r=0&t=0
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> >
> > End of VACList-Digest #189
> > ************************************
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 4
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:37:57 -0600
> From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re:
>
> Oops........... sorry, didn't mean to send this to the list.
>
> -Tom
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 7:09 PM
> Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
> > Jim,
> >
> > If you are not getting the VAC mail yet, you might enjoy this digest
> > which just came out.
> >
> > -Tom
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:44:12 -0600
> From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Questions
>
> Greetings Ted!
>
> Welcome to the world of Overlander ownership - - you have lots of company.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 1:46 AM
> Subject: [VAC] 1958 Overlander Parts
>
> > Greetings (again!),
> >
> >
> > 1. Is it possible to find any information on this model and year of
> > trailer? I'm looking for an owner's manual, and any information on the
> > original appliances and fixtures. I know service manuals aren't
> > available, but I'm also interested in any and all service information
> > that might be available. Also a wiring diagram, if available, would be a
> > great help.
>
> There wasn't a formal owner's manual, rather an enveloe containing owner's
> manuals and literature for all of the installed accessories was included
> with the trailer. You might have good luck finding photo copies or even
> originals by putting the word out - - to get the correct manuals you will
> need the manufacturer's name and model name or number for each of the
> appliances. Even when Airstream began including owner's manuals with the
> '64s, individual manuals and literature were included for many appliances
> including the water heater, refrigerator, water pump, and kitchen range.
> >
> > 4. The faucets in the shower leak at the handles. Can this be repaired
> > with off-the-shelf parts from the hardware store, or do we need
> > specialty parts?
> >
> I don't know whether it will apply to your rig or not, but my '64
> Overlander's original faucets were all delta - - or at least they all used
> delta replacement parts including stem and washer assemblies. I had no luck
> with hardware stores - - tried a local plumbing supply distributor - - told
> the clerk that the faucets were bathroom/laundry room sink (didn't mention
> Airstream as the shop had prominent notices posted that they did not carry
> parts for mobile homes). Within a few minutes I had all new stem assemblies
> ready for installation. It helps if the plumbing supply house is accustomed
> to dealing with restoring/refurbishing old houses as I was told that the
> fixture was one of common usage from 1950-66 when the parts were invoiced.
>
> Good luck with your Overlander, I am sure that you will enjoy traveling with
> it.
>
> > Any advice, tips, and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for
> > being here!
> >
> > Ted Byrd
> > 1958 Overlander :)
>
> Kevin Allen
> WBCCI/VAC #6359
> 1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:55:52 -0500
> From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Washington, DC Unit 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> Once again its that time of year to get ready for the Rally Season.
>
> The 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally (Thursday, April 4th - Sunday, April
> 7th, 2002) Sponsored by the Washington DC Unit of the WBCCI will be held
> once again at Roger's Farm. WDCU charter members Clayton & Christi Rogers
> have again agreed to be our hosts on their 140 acre farm in Upper Marlboro,
> Maryland, which is a central location between Washington DC, Annapolis and
> Baltimore, Maryland. Last year Garnett Horner made plans to do a Wagon
> Wheels style parking layout that we will use again this year with nightly
> campfires in the center of the circle. Other amenities are to include gray
> water dumping, water available, and Porta-potties. There are plans for
> providing limited electric service. All WBCCI and vintage Airstreamers are
> encouraged to attend, but there will be, as last year, a limit of 50
> trailers with initial preference to WDCU members and affiliates. The rally
> fee is $100/Airstream with 2 adults, $75/Airstream with 1 adult, $25 for
> each additional guest; children are free.
>
> This is our Unit signature rally and a great opportunity to kick off the
> RVing year while DC is typically at its peak and full of activity. Please
> plan on joining us.
>
> Registration must be received no later than March 28, 2002
> -----------------------------------------------------------
>
> Name _________________________________________________________
> Name(s) of other adults___________________________________________
> Number of children attending ______________________________________
> Address _______________________________________________________
> City/State/ZIP __________________________________________________
> Phone _________________________________________________________
> e-mail _________________________________________________________
> WBBCI Number _________________________________________________
>
> Please make the following reservation:
> _____ Rally fee ($75/1 adult, $100/2 adults, $25/additional adult, children
> free)
>
> Rally fee includes 3 breakfasts and one dinner for rally participants.
> Guests or visitors will be charged for meals.
>
> Make check (U.S. dollars) payable to: WDCU
> And mail to:
> Ruth Baldwin
> 6126 Callery St.
> Pittsburgh, PA 15206
>
> Confirmation of your reservation will be sent by e-mail.
> And again, any Questions: Call 412-361-2654 or e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 7
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 04:31:05 -0500
> From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Acid wash
>
> My question is : What is an "Acid Wash"? Hope it is not the use of a
> chemical stripper to remove the plastic coating. Dave
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 8
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:48:23 -0800 (PST)
> From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Acid wash
>
> acid wash is the use of a light "etching" chemical.
> very similar to aluminum wheel cleaner that you buy at
> the local general store.
>
> Toby
>
> --- Red <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > My question is : What is an "Acid Wash"? Hope it
> > is not the use of a
> > chemical stripper to remove the plastic coating.
> > Dave
>
> =====
> "The apple grows so bright and high,
> And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
>
> http://www.tobyfolwick.com
> Minneapolis, MN
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 9
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:23:44 -0500
> From: "Gerald Weber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
>
> My new Wee-Wind only made it nine miles from the seller before the tongue
> broke!
> It was almost history. Anyhow, I'm desperately in need of advice, and have
> photos to explain the current sad status.
>
> Thanks folks!
>
> Gerald Weber
> 142 Mitchell Street, Suite 301
> Atlanta, Georgia 30303
> (404) 523-6201
> (404) 577-0181 (fax)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 10
> Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:32:37 -0800
> From: gshippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
>
> Gerald Weber, Sorry to hear of your bad luck there, However hopfully your
> Wee-Wind is still in ok condition? If you do not weld you should have a
> new
> hitch installed by a professional simply for safety's sake. You could save
> yourself some money by removing the aluminum belly pan and preparing it for
> the
> welder. Then reinstalling which may give you opportunity to do some other
> observations/repairs etc. You are now among the elite few who A/S hitches
> broke on the Caravans to Africa and such exotic places! Good luck.
> Gerald Shippen
> 66 Overlander
> 62 Globe Trotter
>
> Gerald Weber wrote:
>
> > My new Wee-Wind only made it nine miles from the seller before the tongue
> > broke!
> > It was almost history. Anyhow, I'm desperately in need of advice, and
> have
> > photos to explain the current sad status.
> >
> > Thanks folks!
> >
> > Gerald Weber
> > 142 Mitchell Street, Suite 301
> > Atlanta, Georgia 30303
> > (404) 523-6201
> > (404) 577-0181 (fax)
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of VACList-Digest #190
> ************************************
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:29:00 -0500
From: Thornton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1968 Ambassador
--------------B45F6245C5DC998A9AFEC046
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I normally would not use this discussion group to solicit but I am very
discouraged with the responses I am receiving from the Vintage
Classified. It seems most of the people responding don't have an idea
about A/S's and refurbishing/rebuilding them.
Here it is real quick.
1967 Ambassador 28 ft.
$300.00 Firm (Yes Three Hundred) THIS IS A PROJECT TRAILER
It won't tow too far without some prep so keep that in mind. Serious,
serious inquiries only please.
E-mail me direct mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Thanks for your time and I apologize for using this forum. But I know
there is someone out there that deserves this trailer and will use it
appropriately.
- Mike Thornton
Eustis, Florida
'63 Safari
'67 Ambassador
--------------B45F6245C5DC998A9AFEC046
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
I normally would not use this discussion group to solicit but I am very
discouraged with the responses I am receiving from the Vintage Classified.
It seems most of the people responding don't have an idea about A/S's and
refurbishing/rebuilding them.
<p>Here it is real quick.
<br>1967 Ambassador 28 ft.
<br>$300.00 Firm (Yes Three Hundred) <u>THIS IS A PROJECT TRAILER</u>
<br>It won't tow too far without some prep so keep that in mind.
Serious, serious inquiries only please.
<p>E-mail me direct <a
href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]</a><a
href="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";></a>
<p>Thanks for your time and I apologize for using this forum. But
I know there is someone out there that deserves this trailer and will use
it appropriately.
<p>- Mike Thornton
<br>Eustis, Florida
<br>'63 Safari
<br>'67 Ambassador</html>
--------------B45F6245C5DC998A9AFEC046--
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 23:19:05 -0500
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: VAC Restoration Project
Hi Phil,
The belly pan, despite being nasty with rodent tailings and smashed from
the ride off the road, was not badly corroded. So I took it down, cleaned it
up, rolled it up and put it in my basement. If I was going to replace it, I
would look for .025-.032 soft aluminum stock. The present stock bends and
rips a whole lot easier that the Alclad. However if you wanted to use 2024T3
on the belly, I don't think anyone would argue the matter.
Later
WAM
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 12:58:51 -0500
From: "Phil Renner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: VAC Restoration Project
Wayne
What a project!
I haven't gotten as far as needing to order aluminum sheets yet, but I'm
curious. What did you determine to be the appropriate alclad sheet
(thickness, composition) from Aircraft Spruce for your replacement belly pan
sheets? Is this the same as lower outside shell?
Phil
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2002 22:28:33 -0600
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch set up
Greetings Eric!
> Hello Airstreamers,
> As I get set up to pull my '71 Tradewind for the first time I have some
> questions about my hitch set up. My truck is a 3/4 ton Dodge 4X4 that has
the
> top of the hitch receiver opening at 23 3/4" high. I got the Reese weight
> distributing and anti sway stuff. I got the adjustable draw bar with the
> longer drop and the lowest setting puts the ball still 1 1/2" higher than
the
> 19 1/2" specified by the Airstream manual.
I would double-check with the retailer where you purchased the Reese drop
bar. My tow vehicle is a '99 K2500 Heavy Duty 3/4 Ton 4-wheel drive
Suburban and it required a 9" drop bar to get the ball mount to the correct
height for my Overlander. It was a standard Reese product, but the first
dealer that I tried didn't know such a thing existed and sold me the
"deepest drop" available -- (after 2,000 miles) I tried Ace Fogdall RV in
Cedar Falls Iowa and they had the exact part in stock and idicated that it
was a near standard stock item for Airstream dealers.
You won't regret getting the hitch set up properly. I towed with the
shorter drop for about 2,000 miles and can relate that you are bound to
encounter a number of potential problems. It was nearly impossible to get
my trailer even close to level (part of the problem is that it constitutes
less the 50% of the maximum trailer weight that my tow vehicle was designed
to tow) - - the truck doesn' squat more than 1 inch when the trailer tounge
is dropped onto the ball. The most obvious problem was that with the
trailer off-level the tail of the trailer would drag on even the most gentle
driveway incline. The second problem wasn't obvious to me as I didn't know
how smoothly my rig should operate (with this tow vehicle) - - there was a
"seat-of-the-pants" uneasyness that could be felt anytime the rig was on the
road and it was very taxing to tow in wind or rain storms as the trailer
fought the truck - - and this was with Reese Dual Cam Sway Controls. Once
Ace Fogdall worked through all of the set-up issues, the truck doesn't even
know the trailer is there and the whole rig is level - - the whole key
seemed to be getting the correct drop in combination with the correct ball
mount angle as the trailer now tows bettern that it did with any of my
earlier tow vehicles.
I'm wondering how critical these
> dimensions are. It seems to me that since they show passenger cars pulling
> the trailers back then that 19 1/2 to the top of the ball might have been
> taking into account the effect of the tongue weight on the car springs to
be
> then leveled with the weight distributing set up. My whole situation seems
to
> indicate to me that I'm at the opposite end of the effective range of the
> weight distribution possibilities. Since I have no experience with any of
> this I wonder if there are any factors I am not taking into account. I
have
> not really checked it out on a level spot yet. Keeping the driveway plowed
is
> more of a priority right now. I did drop the trailer onto the ball and the
> truck came down a couple of inches. There is some stuff stored in the
> trailer, possibly simulating a loaded for travel situation. If the trailer
> and truck are basically level does it matter if I'm at the bottom end, so
to
> speak, of the weight distribution set up or is that 1 1/2" difference
going
> to lever my front wheels up? I'm just hoping this set up will be close
enough
> without having another drop bar fabricated.
If the drop bar that you have is incorrect, try giving the dealer the
opportunity to make it right - - or you might find that the dealer where you
but the correct part might be willing to trade parts - - I was able to trade
my shallow drop bar on the extra deep drop bar - - there was a small loss on
the deal, but given the safety issue involved it would have been worth the
exchange at 5-times the loss. There WILL be a noticeable difference in the
stability of the towing combination when the geometry of the hitch set-up is
within the engineering design specifications.
Good luck with your hitch set-up project.
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:39:11 -0500
From: "Dave Mills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Seen advise
We have a 1967 Globetrotter which has a 30 gal water tank but no gauge to
tell us how much water we have in it. Can someone suggest a way to tell how
much water is left in the tank. Thanks, Dave Mills
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:03:01 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Refrigerator work
Hello,
Thanks to all for the responses on the hitch set up. Now, sooner or later I'm
going to get back to working on the refrigerator. I haven't gotten involved
in the gas in the trailer yet but I did make some ice after changing a heater
and plugging in. I also changed the thermostat since the heater was on
constantly. There was no change. It just seemed to want to be on or off.
Adjusting the thermostat just changed where in the range of the control it
turned on. I have no particular reason to trust either of the thermostats. I
have parts left over from a former dealer shop. It seems they saved some
faulty things for some reason. I get a certain amount of pleasure from
tinkering around with this stuff. This is a good thing to tell myself as I
waste time by stubbornly avoiding asking advice. So let me ask this, does it
make any sense to think that a refrigeration unit is less efficient because
of age and would require being heated constantly to maintain proper
temperature for food storage? I did the turning it upside down thing. OR,
should I assume because it works well enough to make ice that it is okay. I
have a new old stock refrigeration unit to replace it with. Whether that
could be just as bad because of age I have no idea. It has a nice paint job
and maybe I might as well try it since I have it.
Having read the service manual on the subject of making that replacement I
came upon references to "Thermal Mastic" and "Permagum". Does anyone know
where I can get these things?
Best Regards,
Erik Murray
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:36:43 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
--part1_11c.b3b6764.2982c77b_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hello All,
We own a '69 Caravel that is missing the folding table that tucks along
side the couch. I am sure we could make one if we could find a pattern or
picture to go by. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance for your time.
Diane Ingalls
69 Caravel "The Toaster"
On the shores of Lake Michigan
--part1_11c.b3b6764.2982c77b_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hello All,
<BR> We own a '69 Caravel that is missing the folding table that tucks along
side the couch. I am sure we could make one if we could find a pattern or
picture to go by. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance for your time.
<BR>Diane Ingalls
<BR>69 Caravel "The Toaster"
<BR>On the shores of Lake Michigan</FONT></HTML>
--part1_11c.b3b6764.2982c77b_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 10:36:41 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Seen advise
Dave. Airstream used a crude but effective gauge back then, but not on all
models. Install two copper lines or hard plastic lines, one from the bottom
and the other from the top of the tank. Route them so that they come out
along side of the front lounge, and maintain the approximate 12 inches
between them. Attach a section of soft, clear plastic tubing, between the
two lines. You now have a very simple "sight gauge."
Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 07:37:00 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Seen advise
On the front mounted water tanks pre "Control Center", there is usually
a clear vinyl tube (sight glass) in the forward curbside corner to the
side of the sofa or under the dinette seat. It runs between the
overflow fitting on the top and a drain fitting on the bottom of tank.
I've seen all sorts of owner added level marks, from Felt Tip marker to
Dymo-Labels to computer made decals.
If for some reason yours is missing, it's a good weekend project, as
all parts are hardware store items.
RJ
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 3:39 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [VAC] Seen advise
>
>
> We have a 1967 Globetrotter which has a 30 gal water tank but
> no gauge to
> tell us how much water we have in it. Can someone suggest a
> way to tell how
> much water is left in the tank. Thanks, Dave Mills
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:13:02 -0500
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Refrigerator work
Erik,
That heater should cycle on and off when the thermostat calls for
"cool" or "enough cool". If it's making ice in the main compartment,
it's definitely "enough cool" and the 'stat should cycle the heater off
for a while. (note that the gas burner does NOT cycle, but modulates up
and down, depending on the amount of cooling required)
The only reason the thing wouldn't cool as well as it once did is if it
was operated off-level. That causes cumulative damage each time it happens.
Check at http://www.rvmobile.com for more than you ever wanted to know
about RV refrigeration.
<<Jim>>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hello,
> Thanks to all for the responses on the hitch set up. Now, sooner or later I'm
> going to get back to working on the refrigerator. I haven't gotten involved
> in the gas in the trailer yet but I did make some ice after changing a heater
> and plugging in. I also changed the thermostat since the heater was on
> constantly. There was no change. It just seemed to want to be on or off.
> Adjusting the thermostat just changed where in the range of the control it
> turned on. I have no particular reason to trust either of the thermostats. I
> have parts left over from a former dealer shop. It seems they saved some
> faulty things for some reason. I get a certain amount of pleasure from
> tinkering around with this stuff. This is a good thing to tell myself as I
> waste time by stubbornly avoiding asking advice. So let me ask this, does it
> make any sense to think that a refrigeration unit is less efficient because
> of age and would require being heated constantly to maintain proper
> temperature for food storage? I did the turning it upside down thing. OR,
> should I assume because it works well enough to make ice that it is okay. I
> have a new old stock refrigeration unit to replace it with. Whether that
> could be just as bad because of age I have no idea. It has a nice paint job
> and maybe I might as well try it since I have it.
> Having read the service manual on the subject of making that replacement I
> came upon references to "Thermal Mastic" and "Permagum". Does anyone know
> where I can get these things?
> Best Regards,
> Erik Murray
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:05:50 -0600
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re:
>Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:36:43 EST
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [12.232.123.200] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
>MHotMailBE1ABA6A00354136E8190CE87BC8FC560; Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:45:06 -0800
>Received: from 192.168.123.2 by hpserver.airstream.net (InterScan E-Mail
>VirusWall NT); Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:44:48 -0800
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>vintageairstream.com (8.11.0/8.11.0) with ESMTP id g0PEarh53809for
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:36:53 -0800 (PST)
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>(mail_out_v31_r1.26.) id a.11c.b3b6764 (4354) for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>;
>Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:36:44 -0500 (EST)
>From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:45:31 -0800
>Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Errors-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Precedence: Bulk
>X-Listserver: Macjordomo 1.5 - Macintosh Listserver
>
>Hello All,
> We own a '69 Caravel that is missing the folding table that tucks along
>side the couch. I am sure we could make one if we could find a pattern or
>picture to go by. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance for your time.
>Diane Ingalls
>69 Caravel "The Toaster"
>On the shores of Lake Michigan
If no one else has a picture already I will try to learn how to use my
scanner. I may have what you are looking for in my 71' soverighn
Gina
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 12:24:59 -0600
From: "Maggie Tacheny" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Looking for retirees with airstreams
Want to share your experience with a national television audience?
�Right on the Money!�, a Minnesota-based personal finance show which airs
nationally each week on PBS and cable stations, seeks a retired couple
whose primary home is an airstream or other recreational vehicle for a 3-4
minute television feature. The piece would illustrate the everyday life of
an ��airstream couple�, with some emphasis on how the couple manages
logistics such as banking, taxes, and other financial issues. The couple�s
finances themselves would not be discussed, but rather their methods,
e.g., online banking, selling the family home to afford travel, etc.
Interested parties should contact Maggie Tacheny by phone (651.229.1287)
or by offlist email ([EMAIL PROTECTED]). The participating couple will
receive a VHS copy of the finished product. Please respond by February 15,
2002.
* This posting was approved by the VAC list moderators.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:39:56 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Gina, I sent five pictures but I'm sure yours would be helpful too. Besides
you need to know how to use your scanner.
Cheers,
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 13:05
Subject: [VAC] Re:
>
>
>
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: [VAC] Re:
> >Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 09:36:43 EST
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >Received: from [12.232.123.200] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
> >MHotMailBE1ABA6A00354136E8190CE87BC8FC560; Fri, 25 Jan 2002
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> >Received: from 192.168.123.2 by hpserver.airstream.net (InterScan E-Mail
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> ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Fri, 25 Jan 2002 06:36:53 -0800 (PST)
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> >
> >Hello All,
> > We own a '69 Caravel that is missing the folding table that tucks
along
> >side the couch. I am sure we could make one if we could find a pattern
or
> >picture to go by. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance for your time.
> >Diane Ingalls
> >69 Caravel "The Toaster"
> >On the shores of Lake Michigan
>
>
> If no one else has a picture already I will try to learn how to use my
> scanner. I may have what you are looking for in my 71' soverighn
> Gina
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
>
>
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>
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>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2002 13:23:48 -0600
From: "Jim Combs"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: VAC Restoration Project
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
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"Wayne A. Moore" wrote:
>
> As some of you know I'm in the process of restoring a '65 Caravel.
>
> http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=/%2765+Caravel&.src=ph&.view=t
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
That's quite an undertaking in any weather. But in the
snow? It made me cold just looking at those pictures.
Way to go, Wayne!
Later,
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
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charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2654.89">
<TITLE>RE: [VAC] Re: VAC Restoration Project</TITLE>
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<BODY>
<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>"Wayne A. Moore" wrote:</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>> As some of you know I'm in the process of =
restoring a '65 Caravel.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>> </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>> <A =
HREF=3D"http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=3D/%2765+Caravel&.src=
=3Dph&.view=3Dt" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/wam52/lst?&.dir=3D/%2765+Ca=
ravel&.src=3Dph&.view=3Dt</A></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2><A =
HREF=3D"http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html"; =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html</A></FONT=
>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>That's quite an undertaking in any weather. But =
in the </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>snow? It made me cold just looking at those =
pictures. </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Way to go, Wayne! </FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=3D2>Later,</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT>
</P>
</BODY>
</HTML>
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------------------------------
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