VACList-Digest Wednesday, January 23, 2002 Issue 190
Today's Topics:
1. This is a test - ignore
2. Tow Available......
3. Re:
4. Re:
5. Re: 1958 Overlander Questions
6. Washington, DC Unit 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally
7. Acid wash
8. Re: Acid wash
9. Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
10. Re: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 18:26:25 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: This is a test - ignore
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Please ignore this test. Sorry for the inconvenience.
-Tom
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------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:56:23 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Tow Available......
Got a tow vehicle going from SF to So Cal on Feb 5th if anyone needs a trailer moved!
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 19:09:53 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Jim,
If you are not getting the VAC mail yet, you might enjoy this digest
which just came out.
-Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 6:31 PM
Subject: [VAC]
> VACList-Digest Tuesday, January 22, 2002 Issue 189
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. RV Storage
> 2. Re: /black tank 54 safari
> 3. Vintage Airstream Rally - April 18-21 near Pensacola FL
> 4. Re: /black tank 54 safari
> 5. 1958 Overlander Parts
> 6. Re: Rust
> 7. Re: RV Storage
> 8. Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> 9. Re: RV Storage
> 10. Black Water tank support pictures
> 11. Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
> 12. Re: Frame rust
> 13. Fwd: 1949 Vagabond Travel Trailer
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 18:52:16 -0700
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: RV Storage
>
> Greetings,
>
> Thanks to everyone on and off the list who has helped answer our
> questions over the past six months. We are finally the proud new owners
> of a 1958 Overlander!! Unfortunately, we won't be able to use it for a
> few weeks, as I have to have dental surgery. We are in need of a
> storage facility or inexpensive RV park in the Phoenix, Arizona area for
> about a month. It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> 1950's vintage trailers. If anyone has such information, please feel
> free to contact me off list, it would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Ted (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED])
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 2
> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 23:07:49 -0500
> From: jim graves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: /black tank 54 safari
>
>
> hey folks,
>
> can anybody help me locate a black tank that will fit a 54 safari. can it
> mount between floor and the belly pan? it had an external unit that looked
> like a colostomy bag that had mercifully been destroyed by a speed bump.
> also, what is the prevailing wisdom on underfloor insulation.
>
> jim graves
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 3
> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:20:33 -0600
> From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Vintage Airstream Rally - April 18-21 near Pensacola FL
>
> The Pensacola WBCCI unit invites Airstreamers with vintage trailers to
attend a
> rally at Mystic Springs Airstream Park on April 18-21. Details are posted
on the
> VAC site now as an upcoming event. This event is a trial to see how many
vintage
> airstreams and VAC members are in the Gulf Coast area. Hope you can
attend!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 4
> Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2002 22:27:23 -0600
> From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: /black tank 54 safari
>
> My 63 Globetrotter's black tank actually sits on top of the floor and is
in a
> plywood box about 7 " high. The box has a plywood top that acts as the
floor
> on which the toilet is mounted. The fiberglass tank is shaped to fit the
rear
> curved wall of the trailer and it hold about 8 or 9 gallons.
>
> jim graves wrote:
>
> > hey folks,
> >
> > can anybody help me locate a black tank that will fit a 54 safari. can
it
> > mount between floor and the belly pan? it had an external unit that
looked
> > like a colostomy bag that had mercifully been destroyed by a speed bump.
> > also, what is the prevailing wisdom on underfloor insulation.
> >
> > jim graves
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 5
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 00:46:06 -0700
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: 1958 Overlander Parts
>
> Greetings (again!),
>
> As stated in a prior email, we have just purchased a 1958 Overlander
> twin model. The sale will be completed today, so I have not yet joined
> the WBCCI or the VAC, but they are high on the list of priorities. We're
> excited and proud to finally be actively participating in this
> fascinating community!
>
> Right off the bat, I'd like to pester y'all with several questions:
>
> 1. Is it possible to find any information on this model and year of
> trailer? I'm looking for an owner's manual, and any information on the
> original appliances and fixtures. I know service manuals aren't
> available, but I'm also interested in any and all service information
> that might be available. Also a wiring diagram, if available, would be a
> great help.
>
> 2. We need a complete window frame for the rear street side. It looks
> like the original was either accidently pulled off, or intentionally
> removed. The previous owner says the person that he purchased it from,
> had tried to put an air conditioner in the window, and the frame is
> missing. I'm pretty sure it's a Hehr, though I have no idea what model
> number it is, I can provide the size if it's any help.
>
> 3. It still has what looks like an original Kreft fridge. It works fine
> on propane, but the electric heating element is kaput. Does anyone know
> where to find a suitable replacement?
>
> 4. The faucets in the shower leak at the handles. Can this be repaired
> with off-the-shelf parts from the hardware store, or do we need
> specialty parts?
>
> Any advice, tips, and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for
> being here!
>
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander :)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 6
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 05:45:56 -0500
> From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Rust
>
> Hi Jim, Sounds like the way to go to be safe. Thanks for the info. Dave
>
> Snip: To find out how far back the rust damage went, I simply cut off the
> 'A'
> frame about 4" ahead of the trailer body. Although I was prepared to go
> back as far as I had to to fix it, the frame looked pretty good at that
> point. So, we fabricated a replacement, including a new hitch from
> Northern Tool & Equipment (looked almost exactly like the old one), and
> welded it on.
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 7
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 09:25:08 -0600
> From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: RV Storage
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: T. Byrd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> > 1950's vintage trailers.
>
> If they don't allow pets who would want to stay there. I have run across
the
> "older" trailer blacklist at a few RV parks, so not I just tell them that
my
> 1976 A/S is a 1986 A/S. They don't know the difference, and in fact my
1976
> A/S looks better and is better condition than most newer SOB's anyway.
>
> Good luck with your new Vintage A/S
>
> Don Hardman
> 1976 31' Sovereign
> http://home.att.net/~dhardman/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 8
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 10:30:14 -0600
> From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
>
> Livingston's book on RV maintenance will show a generic wiring diagram.
> That's more than there is for the really vintage Airstream. And its a
> decent start. That book is a gold mine of maintenance help. It should be
> in your hands. It may not cover your particular appliance but will help
> in a generic way.
>
> A good small appliance repair shop may be able to make a new heating
> element from nichrome wire if the insulators have survived from the old
> refrigerator heating element.
>
> Often faucets need nothing more than tightening the gland nuts to
> squeeze the packing tighter to the shafts. You may have to remove the
> knobs to access the packing or gland nuts. You may have to remove the
> packing and clean the shafts because sometimes pieces of packing stick
> to the shafts and gets hard and so grinds out the working packing when
> the faucet shaft is moved. The parts should be close to standard
> hardware store shelf items.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
> permission only.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 9
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:04:39 -0600
> From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: RV Storage
>
> When I hit that problem...I just move on down the road and don't worry
> about it. There are too many others that don't care about the trailers
> age...or your pets.
>
> Vote with your fee.
>
>
> Lefty Frizzell
> http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
>
> ****
> I can only please one person per day.
> Today is not your day.
> Tomorrow is not looking good either.
> ****
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
> Don Hardman
> Sent: 22 January 02 09:25
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Re: RV Storage
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: T. Byrd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> It seems that many of the RV parks won't allow pets, or
> > 1950's vintage trailers.
>
> I
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 10
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 12:08:48 -0800 (PST)
> From: jon fitz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Black Water tank support pictures
>
> I recently removed the black water tank from my 68
> Overbudget. This should be pretty similar to your 66
> Safari. I took lots of pictures.
>
> Now the bad news: I am notoriously slow about getting
> prints, and of course, they have to be scanned as
> well. I fully intend to post them "someday" on the
> net.
>
> Are you in a hurry with this project? If so, I
> suggest you keep looking. But, if you are doing your
> planning well in advance (as we often do), these may
> be just the ticket. I went to pains to get good shots
> because there are so few available.
>
> Drop me a line off list. Anyone else is welcome to
> nag me so that I don't take too long making them
> available to the list.
>
> Jon in SC
> 68 Overlander
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send FREE video emails in Yahoo! Mail!
> http://promo.yahoo.com/videomail/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 11
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 14:19:49 -0700
> From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Parts
>
> Thanks Doc :)
>
> "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" wrote:
> >
> > Livingston's book on RV maintenance will show a generic wiring diagram.
>
> I've got Livingston's book, thanks to the recommendations from folks
> here over the months. I'll take a look at the electrical section. I
> spent a part of last night reading, and re-reading, the section on
> servicing brakes and wheel bearings. :) It seems the 110v electrical
> system is working fine at the moment. The umbilicus from the trailer to
> the tow vehicle is UV damaged and the insulation has dried out and is
> falling off in many places, leaving bare wires exposed. Hopefully it
> won't be too difficult to trace down the connections and replace it.
>
> > A good small appliance repair shop may be able to make a new heating
> > element from nichrome wire if the insulators have survived from the old
> > refrigerator heating element.
>
> I have the entire original heating element assembly from the
> refrigerator, I'll look into this. Thanks for the tip.
>
> > Often faucets need nothing more than tightening the gland nuts to
> > squeeze the packing tighter to the shafts.
>
> I'll give this a try, I'm sure I'm going to get to know my True Value
> hardware man very well in the near future. :)
>
> If anyone would like pictures of the coach, I'd be happy to pass them
> along. This is a gem, with what looks like a completely original
> interior (minus new paint, carpet, cushions, and carpet), and a fairly
> straight body. Certainly looks better than the '58 Overlander that is
> "melting" in the VintageAirstream.com photo archives. ;)
>
> BTW, if anyone knows of a 1958 or older Overlander that is being parted
> out, I'd sure appreciate knowing about it. I suspect that's going to be
> our only source for the replacement window, as well as some other parts.
>
> Ted Byrd
> '58 Overlander
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 12
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 16:31:03 -0500
> From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: Frame rust
>
> Hey Dave,
>
> Here's an experiment for you to try. It won't cost anything and it may not
> have any validity. But, it worked for me once and put me hot on the trail
> for getting a frame problem solved.
>
> Simple test. Hook up your Airstream with the spring bars at full strength
> (grunt when you hoist them onto the saddle brackets).
>
> Then, roll forward or backward slightly and look at the front aluminum
skin
> (panel) under the stone screen. Don't see anything different? No buckling?
> So much for phase 1.
>
> Then, find a driveway. Go down it and stop at the lowest point while the
> trailer wheels still higher and are not into the driveway (maximum
pressure
> on the spring bars). Look at the front panel under the stone shield. Don't
> see anything different? It still looks flat and secure? Possible
conclusion.
>
> Rust hasn't reached the "too much" stage yet. The frame is still doing its
> thing. It's not flexing from being rusted. It is still capable of
> maintaining rigidity under minimal flexing conditions.
>
> End of experiment.
>
> Next step.
>
> Keep track of the emails from structural engineers who know what they are
> talking about and forget about this experiment.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ==============================
>
> on 01/21/02 4:38 AM, Red at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > Hello,
> > My 67' has rust damage on the "A" frame where the cable (the one that
hooks
> > to the tow vehicle) runs into the frame. It appears that over the years
> > when it rains, snows the water follows the cable into the frame area and
> > sits there and rusts the steel. How do you determine how much rust is
to
> > much? When looking into the frame with a flashlight you can see pitting
on
> > the bottom edge. The other side of the "A" frame appears to be OK.
Thanks
> > for any advice. Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message Number: 13
> Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:06:46 -0800
> From: Marie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Fwd: 1949 Vagabond Travel Trailer
>
>
>
> >Hi Gang,
> >Just spotted this on ebay; it only had another 20 hours to go, sorry, but
> >I haven't been my usual vigilant self recently.
> >Same caveat as usual; if I was in the US, I'd buy it...
> >love
> >Marie
> >
> >
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=600452850
&r=0&t=0
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
> End of VACList-Digest #189
> ************************************
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:37:57 -0600
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Oops........... sorry, didn't mean to send this to the list.
-Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 7:09 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
> Jim,
>
> If you are not getting the VAC mail yet, you might enjoy this digest
> which just came out.
>
> -Tom
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 21:44:12 -0600
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1958 Overlander Questions
Greetings Ted!
Welcome to the world of Overlander ownership - - you have lots of company.
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 1:46 AM
Subject: [VAC] 1958 Overlander Parts
> Greetings (again!),
>
>
> 1. Is it possible to find any information on this model and year of
> trailer? I'm looking for an owner's manual, and any information on the
> original appliances and fixtures. I know service manuals aren't
> available, but I'm also interested in any and all service information
> that might be available. Also a wiring diagram, if available, would be a
> great help.
There wasn't a formal owner's manual, rather an enveloe containing owner's
manuals and literature for all of the installed accessories was included
with the trailer. You might have good luck finding photo copies or even
originals by putting the word out - - to get the correct manuals you will
need the manufacturer's name and model name or number for each of the
appliances. Even when Airstream began including owner's manuals with the
'64s, individual manuals and literature were included for many appliances
including the water heater, refrigerator, water pump, and kitchen range.
>
> 4. The faucets in the shower leak at the handles. Can this be repaired
> with off-the-shelf parts from the hardware store, or do we need
> specialty parts?
>
I don't know whether it will apply to your rig or not, but my '64
Overlander's original faucets were all delta - - or at least they all used
delta replacement parts including stem and washer assemblies. I had no luck
with hardware stores - - tried a local plumbing supply distributor - - told
the clerk that the faucets were bathroom/laundry room sink (didn't mention
Airstream as the shop had prominent notices posted that they did not carry
parts for mobile homes). Within a few minutes I had all new stem assemblies
ready for installation. It helps if the plumbing supply house is accustomed
to dealing with restoring/refurbishing old houses as I was told that the
fixture was one of common usage from 1950-66 when the parts were invoiced.
Good luck with your Overlander, I am sure that you will enjoy traveling with
it.
> Any advice, tips, and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for
> being here!
>
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander :)
Kevin Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2002 22:55:52 -0500
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Washington, DC Unit 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally
Hi Gang,
Once again its that time of year to get ready for the Rally Season.
The 3rd Annual Cherry Blossom Rally (Thursday, April 4th - Sunday, April
7th, 2002) Sponsored by the Washington DC Unit of the WBCCI will be held
once again at Roger's Farm. WDCU charter members Clayton & Christi Rogers
have again agreed to be our hosts on their 140 acre farm in Upper Marlboro,
Maryland, which is a central location between Washington DC, Annapolis and
Baltimore, Maryland. Last year Garnett Horner made plans to do a Wagon
Wheels style parking layout that we will use again this year with nightly
campfires in the center of the circle. Other amenities are to include gray
water dumping, water available, and Porta-potties. There are plans for
providing limited electric service. All WBCCI and vintage Airstreamers are
encouraged to attend, but there will be, as last year, a limit of 50
trailers with initial preference to WDCU members and affiliates. The rally
fee is $100/Airstream with 2 adults, $75/Airstream with 1 adult, $25 for
each additional guest; children are free.
This is our Unit signature rally and a great opportunity to kick off the
RVing year while DC is typically at its peak and full of activity. Please
plan on joining us.
Registration must be received no later than March 28, 2002
-----------------------------------------------------------
Name _________________________________________________________
Name(s) of other adults___________________________________________
Number of children attending ______________________________________
Address _______________________________________________________
City/State/ZIP __________________________________________________
Phone _________________________________________________________
e-mail _________________________________________________________
WBBCI Number _________________________________________________
Please make the following reservation:
_____ Rally fee ($75/1 adult, $100/2 adults, $25/additional adult, children
free)
Rally fee includes 3 breakfasts and one dinner for rally participants.
Guests or visitors will be charged for meals.
Make check (U.S. dollars) payable to: WDCU
And mail to:
Ruth Baldwin
6126 Callery St.
Pittsburgh, PA 15206
Confirmation of your reservation will be sent by e-mail.
And again, any Questions: Call 412-361-2654 or e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 04:31:05 -0500
From: "Red" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Acid wash
My question is : What is an "Acid Wash"? Hope it is not the use of a
chemical stripper to remove the plastic coating. Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 05:48:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Acid wash
acid wash is the use of a light "etching" chemical.
very similar to aluminum wheel cleaner that you buy at
the local general store.
Toby
--- Red <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My question is : What is an "Acid Wash"? Hope it
> is not the use of a
> chemical stripper to remove the plastic coating.
> Dave
=====
"The apple grows so bright and high,
And ends its days in apple pie." - s. hoffenstein
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 09:23:44 -0500
From: "Gerald Weber" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
My new Wee-Wind only made it nine miles from the seller before the tongue
broke!
It was almost history. Anyhow, I'm desperately in need of advice, and have
photos to explain the current sad status.
Thanks folks!
Gerald Weber
142 Mitchell Street, Suite 301
Atlanta, Georgia 30303
(404) 523-6201
(404) 577-0181 (fax)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2002 15:32:37 -0800
From: gshippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wee-Wind Tongue Needs Help!
Gerald Weber, Sorry to hear of your bad luck there, However hopfully your
Wee-Wind is still in ok condition? If you do not weld you should have a new
hitch installed by a professional simply for safety's sake. You could save
yourself some money by removing the aluminum belly pan and preparing it for the
welder. Then reinstalling which may give you opportunity to do some other
observations/repairs etc. You are now among the elite few who A/S hitches
broke on the Caravans to Africa and such exotic places! Good luck.
Gerald Shippen
66 Overlander
62 Globe Trotter
Gerald Weber wrote:
> My new Wee-Wind only made it nine miles from the seller before the tongue
> broke!
> It was almost history. Anyhow, I'm desperately in need of advice, and have
> photos to explain the current sad status.
>
> Thanks folks!
>
> Gerald Weber
> 142 Mitchell Street, Suite 301
> Atlanta, Georgia 30303
> (404) 523-6201
> (404) 577-0181 (fax)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #190
************************************
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