Awesome recipe Dave! You’ve got me hunting parts now, thanks! Bruce
Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 23, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Dave C. Bolen <dbo...@shockwaverider.com> wrote: > > NQ, > > Longish on FI. > > The 68 has been running megasquirt for 14 years. After I replaced the > pistons and cylinders I decided to leave the turbo off to be able to get > to places that I plan to update(edis and wide band o2 instead of narrowband). > > Works just fine that way although I did retune it a little as the AAC p&c > appear to work much better than the old Mahle's. > > My setup... > CB FI intakes with 28lb/hr CB high Z injectors(no resistor pack needed). > CB FI rails > 78 bus pressure regulator(replaced with better Holley adjustable regulator). > 78 bus(2 L) throttle body(somewhat modified). > 78 bus fuel pump and gas filter. > megasquirt from the second group buy(BTW the CPU on it now hitting EOL(End of > life) but I have spares). > DISx ignition cause I use their tach output module for a clean injection > signal. > Narrow band o2 sensor. > Intake manifold air temp sensor and engine temp sensor(not oil). > Throttle position sensor. > > THIS IS a BLOW THRU setup when I get the turbo back on it. No blow off valve > needed. Oh and the turbo stuff started out with a lobuget carb setup. > > No spark control yet > NQ, there are sample fuel maps out there for VW guys galore(and mine). > > Ok, here is the hard part. Like anything with a diy setup and a computer, > you are going to want to fiddle with it. Tune from the front seat with a > laptop. Log a test run and then feed it to a piece of software that will > adjust the Fuel table for you. > > Oh, and from the logging, I know it takes me about 4/10ths of second to > shift<lol>. > > The biggest part of it is running the fuel line and the return back in to the > tank. Some easy ways around that and in a bus you don't have to go > far....but you must have a fuel ring(hi pressure gas). > > THen there is the wiring. Not too bad but you need the tool to do > crimps on GM weatherpack connector pins. > > NQ, count on about a 10% power increase with FI. > > My 1776 with turbo and meqaquirt is just awesome, no fall off in power > in 4th gear(in cool weather). VERY streetable but there when you want it and > guessing about 150hp in anything less than 90 degree weather. > > Yes, there is a learning curve but once you understand the fuel is delivered > based on throttle position, rpm, map, o2 sensor(and the fuel table)...you are > done. > > Want to come to North West Arkansas in the spring?<grin> > I teach for beer<grin>. > Got a brand new 1200 sq foot shop and a place to sleep. > > Cheers, dave > > > >> On Wed, 23 Jan 2019, No Quarter wrote: >> >> Hi Dave. Thanks for your reply! You analogy about relatives picking up >> from where they left off from is perfect. That's what this is. :) >> I want this engine for my 62 double cab and 67 bus. I would not build this >> way for a big, but torque is king in the bus and I want it all and I want it >> low. I had my first bad experience with CB Performance large valve heads on >> my 1776. It would have made tons of power, but in the bus at the point where >> the power band was kicking in, the bus hit terminal velocity. I was forever >> running behind the power curve. Traded straight across for Gene Berg 3 angle >> valve job stock valves and the power came in where I wanted it. The guy I'm >> looking for was building stroker engines for the bus crowd and he told me all >> he did was pull the venturi and up the main jet one size. He could tune it >> up and off he went. I've never had a vw engine over 4K and in fact my bus >> would >> cruise 3600 to 3800 rpm all day long. I suffered some low end losses with >> the freeway flyer and tall tires so that 1st hear takeoffs took a lot of >> revving >> to get going in the mountains and even around home. >> A friend of mine in Lake Havasu City and I had a chat years ago about him >> working on old propane powered trucks in the mines and how these big old 6 >> cylinder trucks had such small valves. They needed the increased port >> velocities down low for torque or they would never get anywhere. He even >> bored out >> a set of 1300cc heads and put them on a stroker engine for fun and then put >> them on his single cab. He let his friend drive it and his friend said it >> pulled like mad up to 35mph then fell flat on its face. What did you do? >> Lol! >> It was an experiment to test the theory and for buses it it sound. I need >> a conservative approach for my buses. I know this is a type 1 list, but I >> feel >> more at home here and I think the low end of the torque spectrum is worth >> investigating for those who would like to build an engine and last a long >> term due >> to keeping the revs in check. >> I would love to venture into the world of fuel injection. I'm fact, I >> would buy a plane ticket and pay someone who would let come to them and have >> them >> teach and school me in what I need to do. I'm only interested in naturally >> aspirated setups and I'd love to know just what parts I could pull from the >> scrap heap to accomplish it. I'd like to take notes, ask questions galore, >> get part numbers for the connectors and components, know how to create the >> correct fuel maps and so forth. I don't want to spend countless hours >> reading forums, conjecture, wading through and endless sea of talk in an >> effort to >> sleuth out some magical recipe. It's why I'm willing to pay someone who >> has found a good budget approach to fuel injection and has done all the >> research. >> Since I can't seem to find someone willing to teach me, then I'm forced to >> monkey with the idea of a 34 pict on a stroker. >> I really mean it. I would pay a worthy amount for the data to make it worth >> someone's while. Once I knew the recipe, I could build whatever engine I >> wanted and fuel inject it no longer being bound by the chains and shackles >> of carburetors. Unless the person teaching me specifically said to not talk >> about it, I would gladly put on a seminar to teach people how to do the same. >> After all, happiness is only real when shared. >> NQ >> -------- Original message -------- >> From: "Dave C. Bolen" <dbo...@shockwaverider.com> >> Date: 23/01/2019 08:12 (GMT-06:00) >> To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com >> Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working? >> NQ(and others). >> Glad to see the list here. It reminds me of my relatives, don't talk for >> 5 years and then pick right back up like it was yesterday. >> I've trimed my herd down to my 68 sedan(megasquirted 1776 turbo) and a 72 >> KG 1914. The turbo is newely back on the road after cracking a cylinder >> at 12psi...my fault though and another long story about what NOT do do >> in a hurry with your exhaust on a turbo. >> NQ, to answer your first question(the one that started this). >> I really don't think you could pass enough air and gas thru a 34pict to >> feed a 2 liter for very long. My bet is that the jetting and idle circuit >> adjustments/changes would be a nightmare....even with a limit of 4000 rpm. >> Might be an interesting exercise though. >> Think about the throttle body on a 2L bus engine and the teeny tiny carb >> off of a 1200cc. VW always managed their horsepower by adjusting the carb >> venturi size and the exhaust pipe size...mostly for longetivity as many of >> us have learned over the years. >> On the other hand! Wasn't it Bill May who always touted the torque coming >> out of a mildly modified single port? Seems like he always believed that >> the single port made more torque down low than the dual port. >> Ya didn't say what you wanted to put this engine in, but I'm thinking it >> wasn't something you were going to put on the hiway. >> Go back to the "famous" hot vw's 1776 daily driver beginings and I think >> they tested with a 34pict to start with...they had dyno numbers also. >> Now, time to tell *why* you want an engine like that! >> Cheers, dave >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >> To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> -- >> Visit the VintagVW archives at >> http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com >> --- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >> To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> > > -- > Visit the VintagVW archives at > http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com > --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- Visit the VintagVW archives at http://www.mail-archive.com/vintagvw@googlegroups.com --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen Discussion List" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to vintagvw+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to vintagvw@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/vintagvw. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
