Bruce, thanks!
I didn't think the subject would draw much attention since I have had it
so long.
The only thing I would like to change on mine is the throttle body but
substitutions(mostly from motorcycle parts) seem few and far between.
I will take some pictures soon and post them on my website.
Cheers, dave
On Thu, 24 Jan 2019, 'Bruce Howard' via VintagVW - Air Cooled Volkswagen
Discussion List wrote:
Awesome recipe Dave! You’ve got me hunting parts now, thanks!
Bruce
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 23, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Dave C. Bolen <dbo...@shockwaverider.com> wrote:
NQ,
Longish on FI.
The 68 has been running megasquirt for 14 years. After I replaced the pistons
and cylinders I decided to leave the turbo off to be able to get
to places that I plan to update(edis and wide band o2 instead of narrowband).
Works just fine that way although I did retune it a little as the AAC p&c
appear to work much better than the old Mahle's.
My setup...
CB FI intakes with 28lb/hr CB high Z injectors(no resistor pack needed).
CB FI rails
78 bus pressure regulator(replaced with better Holley adjustable regulator).
78 bus(2 L) throttle body(somewhat modified).
78 bus fuel pump and gas filter.
megasquirt from the second group buy(BTW the CPU on it now hitting EOL(End of
life) but I have spares).
DISx ignition cause I use their tach output module for a clean injection signal.
Narrow band o2 sensor.
Intake manifold air temp sensor and engine temp sensor(not oil).
Throttle position sensor.
THIS IS a BLOW THRU setup when I get the turbo back on it. No blow off valve
needed. Oh and the turbo stuff started out with a lobuget carb setup.
No spark control yet
NQ, there are sample fuel maps out there for VW guys galore(and mine).
Ok, here is the hard part. Like anything with a diy setup and a computer, you
are going to want to fiddle with it. Tune from the front seat with a laptop.
Log a test run and then feed it to a piece of software that will
adjust the Fuel table for you.
Oh, and from the logging, I know it takes me about 4/10ths of second to
shift<lol>.
The biggest part of it is running the fuel line and the return back in to the
tank. Some easy ways around that and in a bus you don't have to go far....but
you must have a fuel ring(hi pressure gas).
THen there is the wiring. Not too bad but you need the tool to do
crimps on GM weatherpack connector pins.
NQ, count on about a 10% power increase with FI.
My 1776 with turbo and meqaquirt is just awesome, no fall off in power
in 4th gear(in cool weather). VERY streetable but there when you want it and
guessing about 150hp in anything less than 90 degree weather.
Yes, there is a learning curve but once you understand the fuel is delivered
based on throttle position, rpm, map, o2 sensor(and the fuel table)...you are
done.
Want to come to North West Arkansas in the spring?<grin>
I teach for beer<grin>.
Got a brand new 1200 sq foot shop and a place to sleep.
Cheers, dave
On Wed, 23 Jan 2019, No Quarter wrote:
Hi Dave. Thanks for your reply! You analogy about relatives picking up from
where they left off from is perfect. That's what this is. :)
I want this engine for my 62 double cab and 67 bus. I would not build this way
for a big, but torque is king in the bus and I want it all and I want it
low. I had my first bad experience with CB Performance large valve heads on my
1776. It would have made tons of power, but in the bus at the point where
the power band was kicking in, the bus hit terminal velocity. I was forever
running behind the power curve. Traded straight across for Gene Berg 3 angle
valve job stock valves and the power came in where I wanted it. The guy I'm
looking for was building stroker engines for the bus crowd and he told me all
he did was pull the venturi and up the main jet one size. He could tune it up
and off he went. I've never had a vw engine over 4K and in fact my bus would
cruise 3600 to 3800 rpm all day long. I suffered some low end losses with the
freeway flyer and tall tires so that 1st hear takeoffs took a lot of revving
to get going in the mountains and even around home.
A friend of mine in Lake Havasu City and I had a chat years ago about him
working on old propane powered trucks in the mines and how these big old 6
cylinder trucks had such small valves. They needed the increased port
velocities down low for torque or they would never get anywhere. He even bored
out
a set of 1300cc heads and put them on a stroker engine for fun and then put
them on his single cab. He let his friend drive it and his friend said it
pulled like mad up to 35mph then fell flat on its face. What did you do? Lol!
It was an experiment to test the theory and for buses it it sound. I need a
conservative approach for my buses. I know this is a type 1 list, but I feel
more at home here and I think the low end of the torque spectrum is worth
investigating for those who would like to build an engine and last a long term
due
to keeping the revs in check.
I would love to venture into the world of fuel injection. I'm fact, I would
buy a plane ticket and pay someone who would let come to them and have them
teach and school me in what I need to do. I'm only interested in naturally
aspirated setups and I'd love to know just what parts I could pull from the
scrap heap to accomplish it. I'd like to take notes, ask questions galore, get
part numbers for the connectors and components, know how to create the
correct fuel maps and so forth. I don't want to spend countless hours reading
forums, conjecture, wading through and endless sea of talk in an effort to
sleuth out some magical recipe. It's why I'm willing to pay someone who has
found a good budget approach to fuel injection and has done all the research.
Since I can't seem to find someone willing to teach me, then I'm forced to
monkey with the idea of a 34 pict on a stroker.
I really mean it. I would pay a worthy amount for the data to make it worth
someone's while. Once I knew the recipe, I could build whatever engine I
wanted and fuel inject it no longer being bound by the chains and shackles of
carburetors. Unless the person teaching me specifically said to not talk
about it, I would gladly put on a seminar to teach people how to do the same.
After all, happiness is only real when shared.
NQ
-------- Original message --------
From: "Dave C. Bolen" <dbo...@shockwaverider.com>
Date: 23/01/2019 08:12 (GMT-06:00)
To: vintagvw@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [vintagvw] Is the VintagVW list still working?
NQ(and others).
Glad to see the list here. It reminds me of my relatives, don't talk for
5 years and then pick right back up like it was yesterday.
I've trimed my herd down to my 68 sedan(megasquirted 1776 turbo) and a 72
KG 1914. The turbo is newely back on the road after cracking a cylinder
at 12psi...my fault though and another long story about what NOT do do
in a hurry with your exhaust on a turbo.
NQ, to answer your first question(the one that started this).
I really don't think you could pass enough air and gas thru a 34pict to
feed a 2 liter for very long. My bet is that the jetting and idle circuit
adjustments/changes would be a nightmare....even with a limit of 4000 rpm.
Might be an interesting exercise though.
Think about the throttle body on a 2L bus engine and the teeny tiny carb
off of a 1200cc. VW always managed their horsepower by adjusting the carb
venturi size and the exhaust pipe size...mostly for longetivity as many of
us have learned over the years.
On the other hand! Wasn't it Bill May who always touted the torque coming
out of a mildly modified single port? Seems like he always believed that
the single port made more torque down low than the dual port.
Ya didn't say what you wanted to put this engine in, but I'm thinking it
wasn't something you were going to put on the hiway.
Go back to the "famous" hot vw's 1776 daily driver beginings and I think
they tested with a 34pict to start with...they had dyno numbers also.
Now, time to tell *why* you want an engine like that!
Cheers, dave
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