The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 235 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Fart Sensors Gas detectors Re: Gas detectors Front Seatback Removal Re: Front Seatback Removal braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions FS: Porterfield R-4 for e36 Update on Rear Hub Removal / Brake Job <long> Porterfield R-4 are Sold Nurburgring this weekend Re: Nurburgring this weekend Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Apple and BMW team up to produce car audio device
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 16:08:32 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Fart Sensors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If methane originates inside the car, is it wise to switch to recirculate? Possibly add another sensor, and if there is only one occupant, the driver, then recirculate would be ok since it is easy to smell the noxious emissions of others while it remains difficult for most people to smell their own. =-O Barry Jamie Howton wrote: >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ><SNIP> >On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC >system of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant >smells, it switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it >knew that the unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? ><SNIP> >The E-46 Automatic Climate control does this also, I don't think it >matters where the offensive odor is coming from. Farts smell just as >bad in that car as in others. Regards Jamie Howton > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 17:38:50 -0700 From: Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Gas detectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott Miller wrote: On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC system of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant smells, it switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it knew that the unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? Scott, this feature is also available on BMWs. My E39 has this capability where the HVAC system automatically switches to and from recirculate. Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:10:26 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Gas detectors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Some E34s had this also. The sensor is near the cold air intake for the engine. Gary Derian > Scott Miller wrote: > > On an automotive note, I recall reading about a detector in the HVAC system > of some Mercedes Benz automobiles. When it detects unpleasant smells, it > switches the system to recirculate. I always wondered how it knew that the > unpleasant smells were coming from OUTSIDE the car? > > Scott, this feature is also available on BMWs. My E39 has this capability where the HVAC system automatically switches to and from recirculate. > > Steve Albrecht ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:18:16 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Front Seatback Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I need to remove the passenger-side front seatback (or, at least, the cover) to get at the broken seat back tilt-cable. Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the 2 torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings in the archives while inspirationally useful also don't locate these screws. The only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards the back, that hold on a plastic cover that stop you scraping your shoes on a metal stiffening bar. Where are those two missing screws? The car is a 6/94 M3 with manual heated Vaders. TIA. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:38:58 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Front Seatback Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is no seat back cover on the early Vader seats. The surface that you can see from the back seat is the seat shell. The leather is wrapped around it's edges and tucked in, tight. You need to remove the two staples securing the leather cover to the shell, down in a similar position to where the write up you mention shows the screws. Then you need to pull the leather out of the channel around the shell, finally pulling the entire leather/foam front off the seat to access the mechanism. Not a fun job. 5 times less fun trying to put it back together. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > I need to remove the passenger-side front seatback (or, at least, the > cover) to get at the broken seat back tilt-cable. > Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very > useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the 2 > torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings in > the archives while inspirationally useful also don't locate these > screws. The only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards > the back, that hold on a plastic cover that stop you scraping your > shoes on a metal stiffening bar. > > Where are those two missing screws? > > The car is a 6/94 M3 with manual heated Vaders. > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.690 / Virus Database: 451 - Release Date: 5/22/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:59:53 -0600 From: "Dave and Peg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marco is correct. You do not need to remove the axles to take the springs out. One other thing, make sure you have the entire rear of the car jacked up or the sway bar will not let one side drop low enough to get the spring out if one wheel is on the ground and the other side is jacked. I saw a guy at the track going nuts trying to get the spring out when he had only jacked one side up. Dave Miller ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:19:33 -0700 From: Marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> good point! Marco Dave and Peg wrote: > One other thing, make sure you have the entire rear of the car jacked >up or the sway bar will not let one side drop low enough to get the spring >out if one wheel is on the ground and the other side is jacked. I saw a guy >at the track going nuts trying to get the spring out when he had only jacked >one side up. > >Dave Miller > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:31:17 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Also remember to release the hand brake and put the car in neutral. Otherwise the trailing arm won't drop far enough... Jim Ochi At 08:59 PM 6/14/2004, Dave and Peg wrote: >Marco is correct. You do not need to remove the axles to take the springs >out. One other thing, make sure you have the entire rear of the car jacked >up or the sway bar will not let one side drop low enough to get the spring >out if one wheel is on the ground and the other side is jacked. I saw a guy >at the track going nuts trying to get the spring out when he had only jacked >one side up. > >Dave Miller > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 21:03:47 -0700 From: "Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: Porterfield R-4 for e36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a full set (front & rear) used Porterfield R-4 pads for the e36. These are the full race compound. Not really suitable for street use unless you like having every one glare at you for having squeally brakes. I have run them about a total of 3 track days at Portland International Raceway about 7 years ago. Just found them in the garage and would like to unload them. They measure out to have 7/16" pad material remaining. The part numbers are AP 558 (front) and AP 396 (rear) Asking $100 shipped. Contact me off list for photos and any other questions. Thanks, Mike ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 22:54:08 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Update on Rear Hub Removal / Brake Job <long> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I know you've all been waiting with baited breath to find out what happened. Since I'm cross-posting this all over creation, I'll do a summary which is a bit redundant for some of you. My '90 325i is up on jack stands. All four brake calipers and rotors are removed. When the rear wheel bearings are done, I'm going to install a new set of Axxis Ultimate brake pads (more on that in a sec). The rear hub collar nut retainers came out without too much effort, and I have a shiny new 30mm socket (Craftsman from OSH, <$7, no sales tax last weekend, badmouth it if you must), which allowed me to handily remove the nuts. Trying to "drive" (read: beat) the hubs out from the back side was not working. Several of you more knowledgeable wrenchers pointed out that the old procedure (beat, I mean, drive it out) has been superseded with a slide hammer approach. No problem. My friend Darrel has a slide hammer and was happy to loan it to me. I was able to bolt an adapter to the hub, and then went to thread the slide hammer bar into the adapter. Ahem. I said, thread it into the adapter. Grrrrr, it isn't threading. WTF? (G-rated translation: What the heck?) Upon closer examination, the threads at the end of the slide hammer bar are totally messed up. There is no way it is going to thread into anything. I recalled, when picking it up from Darrel, that he said, "Here is it on the workbench, right where the last guy who borrowed it left it". Well, I had the unfortunate task of informing Darrel that whoever last used it ruined the threads. I know that if I had wrecked someone else's valuable tool, I would have replaced it without hesitation. I couldn't believe that any of Darrel's friends would have tried to sneak one past him. Then it occurred to me that it might have been one of his brothers - that would explain a lot. I'll have to ask. Anyway, either Darrel will fix the threads (I could have done it, but he has more tools and skill than I do and I didn't want to risk screwing it up worse), or else I'll find another slide hammer. But, I hear you asking, what about those brakes? I've been running Mintex pads, which are OK for street driving, but I never felt like they were all that great for autocrossing. I had heard good things about the Axxis Ultimates, so I ordered a set from Adrenaline Racing (recommended by Kurt Z). In order to have them for last weekend, I paid for 2 day air from their place in Washington state. They arrived on time. Unfortunately, the rear pads were not the right ones for an E30 325i. Saturday I called to discuss it with Mr. Adrenaline (his actual name escapes me just now), and after some research, he discovered that the info he had for Axxis pads listed the wrong part number for my application. So he is overnighting the correct pads. And as it turns out, I didn't need them last weekend anyway, since I was still wrestling with the hubs. Stay tuned for infrequent updates. And probably a report on autocrossing the family's '91 stock 325iA with my 225/50-15 Kumho Victoracers. That should be interesting. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 23:01:08 -0700 From: "Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Porterfield R-4 are Sold Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks! The Porterfield R-4 pads are sold. -mikehd- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 02:20:53 -0400 From: "Walker, Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Nurburgring this weekend Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey from Germany, Went to the 24H of Nurburgring this weekend....along with 100,000 other race fans. It was AWESOME. The best news is that BMW M3's driven by Hans Stuck finished first and second. The starting grid was 270...yes 270 cars. Out of those, 220 finished. A few hours before the start they rolled the cars onto the front straight and it just filled with people. What a party it was. We left the straight and found seats in the main grandstands for the start, then the rains came (it only rained for the first few hours), but we were under cover...so we did not care. After the start we move down to the first turn where, of course, there were quite a few spins...the spectators went wild on everyone. Later we travelled back to the pits and then walked parts of the track. The track looks a lot like Road Atlanta...But 10 time bigger (13 miles and at least 73). Here are a few links on the "Ring". http://www.nurburgring.org.uk http://adac.24h-rennen.de Click on the "live-box" for the latest news ----- That's all for now...see you guy's in a few weeks. Scott Walker ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 06:51:08 -0700 (PDT) From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Nurburgring this weekend Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Man, Stuck is good. I mean, to win the race is one thing, but to be able to drive two cars to podium finishes is pretty amazing. Would he drive one a short distance and then run back to the other, or just do full laps in alternating cars? :-) --- "Walker, Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hey from Germany, > > Went to the 24H of Nurburgring this weekend....along > with 100,000 other race > fans. It was AWESOME. The best news is that BMW M3's > driven by Hans Stuck > finished first and second. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 08:45:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: braking clunk and new suspension thoughts/questions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 6/14/04 5:40 PM, "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Check your sway bar end links to make sure they are tight - that can cause > the clunk. Or they may be worn out and clunking in the joints, which is hard to tell while they're on the car. > Bentley is smoking crack wrt removing the rear axles. I'll say! > Just unbolt the rear shock and if you're lucky you can force the control arm > down far enough to pull out the spring. Otherwise get a spring compressor. Brian needs to unbolt both shock eyes at the same time, or else the swaybar prevents full droop. To get stock springs out I have to use a prybar. H&R Sports come out almost by themselves. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2004 10:52:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Apple and BMW team up to produce car audio device Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> See; http://www.appleinsider.com/article.php?id=502 Experience suggests that we can count on Apple to provide a much friendlier user interface than that of the infamous iDrive. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
