RE: [pinhole-discussion] Powder vs. Liquid

2003-11-25 Thread George L Smyth
More important should be the characteristics that you are seeking in your 
developer.  The results you get from Rodinal, for instance, will be very 
different from what you get with D76.  Rodinal, as a liquid, is more convenient 
to mix, but I would never use it with a film like Tri-X (not to say that 
someone else might like that combination).

Then again, if you mix a liter of D76 stock, then you can dilute it for use 
very quickly, so you are really only talking about the time savings of a few 
minutes per month.

Cheers -

george

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 --- On Tue 11/25, gregg b. mc neill  gbmcne...@hotmail.com  wrote:
From: gregg b. mc neill [mailto: gbmcne...@hotmail.com]
To: Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2003 14:53:08 -0500
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Powder vs. Liquid

Does anyone have any preference between powder developer vs. liquid 
brdeveloper?brbrAs far as convience, It would seem that liquid would be 
faster.brbrare there any downsides to liquid?brbrthanks in advance for 
your thoughts...brbrgregg b. mc 
neillbrbr_brNeed
 a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline?  The classic country stars are 
bralways singing on MSN Radio Plus.  Try one month free!  
brhttp://join.msn.com/?page=offers/premiumradiobrbrbr___brPost
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Agfa conversion

2003-11-18 Thread George L Smyth
taco -

On closer inspection, it looks like you are using some kind of packaging 
material to hold the 35mm cannister in place.

I am wondering how you know how far to turn the knob that advances the film.  
Do you basically guess how far to turn it so that it does not overlap the 
previous picture?

Cheers -

george

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http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Mon 11/17, Wolfgang Thoma  th...@pandora.be  wrote:
From: Wolfgang Thoma [mailto: th...@pandora.be]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2003 20:29:45 +0100
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Agfa conversion

George L Smyth wrote:brbrtaco -brbrGood information there.  How did 
you mount the 35mm cannister, and do you have a means of determining how far to 
advance the film?brbrCheers -brbrgeorgebrbr  
brbrGeorge,brI don't know if I understand you right. What do you mean 
withbrHow did you mount the 35mm cannisterbrIf you mean how I use it? 
have a look 
here:brhttp://www.holgamods.com/mods/order/tips1/tips1.html#35mmbrDon't 
forget to tape the picture counter 
!!!brtacobrbrbrbrbr___brPost
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Yashica-D Twin Lens Reflex

2003-10-21 Thread George L Smyth
Thank you very much for the responses.  I will now be able to respond to my 
friend with some experienced answers.

Cheers -

george

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] road trip

2003-10-20 Thread George L Smyth
If you apparently have not yet tried 35mm pinhole, chances are that you will 
not be pleased with the results.  I say this because there just isn't much room 
for definition on such a small piece of film.  Of course, that may be what you 
ar looking for, so you'll need to decide.  Making a pinhole cap is pretty 
simple, so you will definitely want to test things out before going that route.

In my mind, you've already got the best of all worlds.  If you have been 
working with 4X5, it is simply a matter of getting a roll back for the camera 
so that you can use 120 film.  A 6X7 back will probably be most affordable, as 
6X9 backs are not as readily available and will be more expensive (if anyone 
knows of an inexpensive 6X9 back that is available, I might be interested).

This alternative gives you the flexibility of shooting and reloading in the 
field, as well as switching to 4X5 when the need arises.

Cheers -

george

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 --- On Sun 10/19, Catherine Just  blue_medic...@yahoo.com  wrote:
From: Catherine Just [mailto: blue_medic...@yahoo.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2003 13:12:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] road trip

Hi all,brbrLast year I went to england with a pinhole camera. Ibrmust say 
I love the images, but the actual processbrwasn't so fun.brbrI enjoyed 
using the pinhole camera, but didn't likebrhauling the camera, polaroid back, 
film holders andbrthe portable changing tent everywhere we went. Ibrbrought 
5-6 film holders with me and a few boxes forbrexposed film. At the end of it 
all it was worth it,brbut I'm planning another trip and would love to 
hearbrany advice on how to make this a lighter load tobrcarry.brbrI 
thought about getting a pinhole bodycap for a 35mmbrcamera, but I really love 
using 4x5 film, and polaroidbrfilm too.brbrThanks!brbrCatherine 
Justbrbr=brCatherine Just PhotographybrWeddings~Portraits~Fine 
Artbrhttp://www.catherinejust.combr619.294.3195brbrbrDon't 
just state your intent, Live it. ~Jerry Seiner 
Jr.brbr__brDo you Yahoo!?brThe New 
Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product 
searchbrhttp://shopping.yahoo.combrbr___brPost
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Green filter question

2003-10-10 Thread George L Smyth
Understand that infrared film is sensitive to infrared radiation, as well as 
visible light.  Since infrared radiation is beyond the red range, we usually 
use red filters to remove all but the red visible light, so the film receives 
red visible light and infrared radiation.  You can also use opaque filters to 
cut out pretty much all visible light.

A green filter wouldn't do much of anything.  The visible light hitting the 
film plane would probably overwhelm the infrared radiation, with results very 
much like normal black and white film.

Best would be to start things out by getting a #25 filter and seeing the 
results from that.

Cheers -

george

-
http://www.GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Wed 10/08,   bendur...@aol.com  wrote:
From:  [mailto: bendur...@aol.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2003 14:39:02 -0400
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Green filter question

Hi everybody.brI was wondering, I have bought an old conwy Box camera that I 
am going to fit a zone plate onto, it comes with a green filter I was wondering 
what happens if I use this with infrared film? does anyone have an 
Idea?brcheersbrBenbrbr___brPost
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole scans

2003-08-08 Thread George L Smyth
James -

I always scan the print, not the negative, since my intention is rarely 
reflected in the unprocessed negative.  However, very good quality scanners are 
reasonably priced these days.  One poster mentioned the Epson 2450, which I 
also have, but got on eBay, so it can be found for less than the $350 
mentioned.  The great thing about the scanner, besides the excellent quality, 
is that it will scan 4X5 negatives if you wish to go that route (additionally, 
you can insert a 6-frame 35mm strip and it will pick out the images and bulk 
scan them individually - very nice).

Cheers -

george

-
http://www.GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Thu 08/07, James Tittle  thetitt...@yahoo.com  wrote:
From: James Tittle [mailto: thetitt...@yahoo.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 15:03:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole scans

Hi I am new to this list and to pinhole photography. Ibrlove it! i see a lot 
of film pinholes on the sites andbrI wonder if people are scanning these in 
or printingbrthem and then scaniing in the print. Because if theybrare 
scanning something larger than 35mm they must havebrsome bucks--is this the 
case or do most peoplebrprobably scan paper negatives? Any ideas? Thanks. 
--Jamesbrbr__brDo you Yahoo!?brYahoo! 
SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design 
softwarebrhttp://sitebuilder.yahoo.combrbr___brPost
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Different cameras

2003-08-08 Thread George L Smyth
Heidi -

One of these days I need to put something like that together.  My favorite 
pinhole camera is a coffee can, which perfectly holds a sheet of 4X5 film.  
Besides the cameras I have converted for pinhole use (including a 1918 (I 
think) Kodak Brownie, I have made pinhole cameras from many things, including a 
film cannister, where I can insert a single 35mm piece of film, and used film 
boxes.  Normally, however, I use foam core to make whatever I want (including a 
16X20 camera - talk about unwieldy!).

Cheers -

george

-
http://www.GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Fri 08/08, CRABBE Heidi S  h.s.cra...@staffs.ac.uk  wrote:
From: CRABBE Heidi S [mailto: h.s.cra...@staffs.ac.uk]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 11:16:24 +0100
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Different cameras

brHello,brbrI'm doing a talk about pinhole and I would like to show them 
how anybrpackaging/containers can be a camera - does anyone know of a 
websitebrwith pinhole cameras made from different objects? And anyone who 
makesbrtheir own wooden ones?brbrAny help would be greatly 
appreciated!brbrThanksbrbrHeidibrbr brbr 
brbrbrbr-Original Message-brFrom: Richard Heather 
[mailto:rheat...@slonet.org] brSent: 08 August 2003 00:10brTo: 
pinhole-discussion@p at ???brSubject: [pinhole-discussion] Giant almost 
pinhole camera.brbrbrSee this story about a mail truck converted to 
camera obscura/ darkroom.brSimple lens, almost 
pinhole..brhttp://www.wired.com/news/culture/0,1284,59929,00.htmlbrRichard
 Heatherbrbrbrbr___brPost 
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by anyone else is unauthorised. brbrIf you are not the intended recipient, 
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delete the message andbrany attachment from your computer. 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is the best scanner?

2003-07-23 Thread George L Smyth
Well, I would simply use the guides - why not?  You can automate things so 
that, by using the guides, it will recognize the images and offer them to you 
already selected.  This allows you to scan them in batches, which I did with a 
few rolls of slides I took in Spain.  The results were excellent, so not using 
the guide hands you a bunch of disadvantages.

Cheers -

george

-
http://www.GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Wed 07/23, Traci Bunkers  bonk...@bonkersfiber.com  wrote:
From: Traci Bunkers [mailto: bonk...@bonkersfiber.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:06:01 -0500
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is the best scanner?

DAlfrey,brWhen I put my negs on the scanner bed without using the guides, I 
get thosebrcircles from the negs touching the glass. Does that happen to you? 
I'm notbrfamiliar with 55 negs, so maybe it doesn't happen with those.br-- 
brTraci BunkersbrBonkers Handmade 
Originalsbrhttp://www.bonkersfiber.combrbrbr From: 
dalf...@aol.combr Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???br Date: Wed, 
23 Jul 2003 04:42:19 EDTbr To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???br Subject: 
Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is the best scanner?br br and the Type 55 
neg is a tad larger than the guide ' and I wantbr to include the 
perforations of the negs , I simply scan them without thebr carrier guides 
.brbrbr___brPost to the 
list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML brPinhole-Discussion mailing 
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Panorama characteristics?

2003-05-12 Thread George L Smyth
I'm going to guess that my answer would be that it is a combination of the 
angle of view and a format that is wider than a normally wide format (I would 
guess that the typical 2X3 aspect of 35mm film would be condidered wide).  
Indeed, you could halve a sheet of 4X5, but if the result was a slit containing 
a portion of a person's face then I wouldn't consider that a panoramic image 
(although I could certainly see an argument for it).

On a somewhat related comment, you can view my panoramics within the first link 
in my signature by going to Projects then Ballparks.

Cheers -

george

-
http://GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Fri 05/09, CJ Rumpolo  rump...@yahoo.com  wrote:
From: CJ Rumpolo [mailto: rump...@yahoo.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Fri, 09 May 2003 22:20:54 -0400
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Panorama characteristics?

Hi, sorry to have to ask but I was wondering what exactly qualifies a 
camerabras being panoramic? Is it the angle of view, the length of the 
negative, orbra combination of the two? I have been toying with making a 
curved backedbrpanoramic camera but was wondering if I could just use a 
portion of abrsmaller negative or even mask off half of a 4x5 piece of film 
and make 2 2x5brnegatives from a single sheet. Any advice would be most 
appreciated. 
CJbrbrbr___brPost to the 
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Finney Pinhole

2003-04-30 Thread George L Smyth
Well, you are using 35mm film.  I made a body cap for my Nikon and got the same 
results (which is what I wanted).  Use medium or large format film and you will 
get sharper images (you can see my 8X10 pinhole images at 
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Projects/BearSkins/BearSkins.htm).

Cheers -

george

-
http://GLSmyth.com
http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Wed 04/30, Jason Russell  jruss...@wishtv.com  wrote:
From: Jason Russell [mailto: jruss...@wishtv.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 17:57:19 -0500
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Finney Pinhole

Hi all,brbrI bought a Finney Pinhole Body Cap for my Nikon F2 just to play 
around with.brIt's a very cool product.  However, all the pictures are soft 
(not alwaysbrcool).  Should I be getting a sharp image from the body cap?  
Anyone elsebrout there tried one of these?brbrThanks in 
advance.brbrJason RussellbrWISH-TVbrIndianapolis, INbrbrOne in the 
same right 
now...brhttp://www.jason.russell.name/brhttp://www.mafiainc.biz/brbrIf 
you go any faster we're gonna travel back through 
time.brbrbr___brPost to 
the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML brPinhole-Discussion mailing 
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] WPPD

2003-04-27 Thread George L Smyth
 Bob - Mine will take a little while.  I went to the Frederick Keys' game today 
a took a series of shots.  I should have something to present later in the 
week.Cheers - george-http://GLSmyth.comhttp://DRiPInvesting.org--- On Sun 
04/27, Bob Arnott lt; b...@bobarnott.com gt; wrote:From: Bob Arnott [mailto: 
b...@bobarnott.com]To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2003 
18:29:40 +0100Subject: [pinhole-discussion] WPPDJust got back from three 
absorbing hours at the American Military Cemetery,Madingley, Cambridge in the 
UK. To my brand new 10x8 paper camera and myLochcamera 6x9, so I shot some 
Ilford Multigrade IV and some KodakEktachrome.I should really have testes the 
fit of the paper in my new camera as itdidn't fit; I'd made the cut out about 
3mm too small in width. I only put5 sheets through it because of that. I made 
up for the lack of shots withthat camera by taking 6 rolls of 120 with the 
other camera.Can't wait to see what everyone else has taken this year.Cheers,-- 
Bob. 
http://www.bobarnott.com/I
 am not a vegetarian because I love animals;I am a vegetarian because I hate 
plants.-- A. Whitney Brown___Post 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] WWPD III

2003-04-08 Thread George L Smyth
DOH!  Frames strike again!  I teach my students that frames are evil (writing 
Frames are Evil! on the board), so now I have another example. g

I never use my browser full screen, so although I have a 17 monitor and 
1024X768 resolution, I was only able to see three of the thumbnails.

Cheers -

george

-
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http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Mon 04/07, Guillermo  pen...@rogers.com  wrote:
From: Guillermo [mailto: pen...@rogers.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 20:39:47 -0400
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] WWPD III

Chris has coded the frames for no scrolling, not a good idea, 
obviously.brbrThere are only 6 images per artist, so if you have 1024x768 
resolution, thebrlast thumbnail (1/2  visible in IE6) is the last image of 
each artist.  Whenbrusing IE, pressing F11 key will allow you to see all of 
the thumbnails.brbrAnother way to see them all is to right click on the 
artist names, that willbrgive you a scrollable page with the thumbnails, then 
you drag and drop thebrthumbnails, one by one, into another browser window, 
that'll open the fullbrsize images. It shouldn't be this difficult, 
tho.brbrBTW Chris: that's a very ingenious camera you have made, if I were 
not an Ibrgotta made or modify the pinhole cameras I use kind of guy, I'd 
have placedbran order already.   I very much like the images, especially 
Mia's House,broutstanding!!.brbrGuillermobrbr- Original Message 
-brFrom: George L Smyth glsm...@myway.combrTo: 
pinhole-discussion@p at ???brSent: Monday, April 07, 2003 5:44 
PMbrSubject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] WWPD IIIbrbrbrbr For some 
reason I do not get a scroll bar on the right, so I am not ablebrto get to 
all of the images in the left frame.brbr Cheers -brbr 
georgebrbrbrbrbr___brPost
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] WWPD III

2003-04-07 Thread George L Smyth
For some reason I do not get a scroll bar on the right, so I am not able to get 
to all of the images in the left frame.

Cheers -

george


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http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Mon 04/07, Chris Peregoy  pere...@umbc.edu  wrote:
From: Chris Peregoy [mailto: pere...@umbc.edu]
To: cfla...@mchsi.com, pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2003 08:39:14 -0400
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] WWPD III

= Original Message From Chuck Flagg cfla...@mchsi.com 
=brHello,brThis list has been a little quiet.  Everyone must be 
preparing for WWPD III!brOnly 20 days left.brAny new ideas for unusual 
cameras.  I've been preping my students.brbrbrChuck,brAs a matter of 
fact, since you've asked, I've been working on a new and brunusual camera 
brthat's ready to be unveiled. You can find it at  
http://www.pinholeblender.com brTake a look, I even have a small gallery 
there so that you can see images from brmy brcamera. My pinhole blender 
uses 120 or 220 film and three pinholes in a 180 brdegree arc brto blend 
together a pseudo panorama onto a strip of film 5 inches long. I've brbeen 
working bron this design for over a year now and finally got all the bugs 
worked out brthanks to Tom brMiller who did some field testing this past 
summer and fall. I used a pre brproduction brversion of this camera to 
make my WWPD 2002 image which can be viewed 
at,brhttp://www.pinholeday.org/gallery/2002/?id=536 Good luck with Pinhole 
Day.brbrChrisbrbrChris 
Peregoybrpere...@umbc.edubrhttp://www.pinholeblender.combrbrbr___brPost
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Disposable Camera as Pinhole

2003-03-30 Thread George L Smyth
Om -

You can get the information at http://GLSmyth.com, inthe Pinhole Articles 
section, where Howard allowed me to reproduce it.

Cheers -

george

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http://DRiPInvesting.org

 --- On Sat 03/29, Om Ongtawco  con...@yahoo.com  wrote:
From: Om Ongtawco [mailto: con...@yahoo.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 19:48:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] Disposable Camera as Pinhole

hello Howard! can you send me a copy of the handout? brthanks!br--- Howard 
Wells sandw...@earthlink.net wrote:br I've done this extensively in 
workshops and can sendbr you a handout I usebr for disposable cameras if 
you wish. some brands workbr better than othersbr because they can take a 
normal 35mm cassette, othersbr use a cassette thatbr has a castellated or 
splined spool top. A nylonbr quarter-20 nut epoxied tobr the bottom of 
the camera can be a tripod socket andbr some students have madebr 
foam-core sliding shutters though black tape worksbr as well. br br I 
love the so-called disposable cameras. Let me knowbr if you want thebr 
handout and I'll get it to you (and anyone else whobr might want it) 
thisbr weekend. Right now I'm closing in a deadline gettingbr an 
editorial memo to abr guy who was CEO and Chairman of a 40 billion 
dollarbr company and whosebr honesty and integrity could make one believe 
in bigbr business again. Cheers,br br Howard Wellsbr br br  
[Original Message]br  From: Patrick Barrett 
barrettpatr...@hotmail.combr  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???br  
 Date: 3/14/2003 9:37:15 AMbr  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Disposable 
Camera asbr Pinholebr br  Hello Pinholers,br  I beleive I've 
read something here in the not toobr distant past about br  replacing 
the lens and shutter of a disposablebr camera with a pinhole.br I've 
br  searched the archives to not much avail.br  br  Has anyone done 
this? Are there websites withbr diagrams et cetera?br  br  I plan to 
run a small pinhole workshop on pinholebr day again this year.br Last 
br  year we made oatmeal box, pringle can, tea tinbr cameras and I think 
thisbr year br  I'd like to have my students (friends) trybr 
disposable cameras (sincebr they br  use standard sized film).br  
br  Any help would be much appreciated.br  br--Patrickbr  
br 
brbr_br
  Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online br br 
brbrhttp://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963br  
br  br  ___br  Post to 
the list as PLAIN TEXT only - no HTML br  Pinhole-Discussion mailing 
listbr  Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???br  unsubscribe or change your 
account atbr  http://www.???/discussion/br br br --- Howard 
Wellsbr --- sandw...@earthlink.netbr --- EarthLink: The #1 provider of 
the Real Internet.br br br br 
___br Post to the list as PLAIN 
TEXT only - no HTML br Pinhole-Discussion mailing listbr 
Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???br unsubscribe or change your account atbr 
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] off topic! Ortho film + Dektol?

2003-03-24 Thread George L Smyth
Sure, I use halftone film and process it with a dilute solution of Dektol (1+10 
to 1+20, depending upon the scene).

Cheers -

george

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 --- On Mon 03/24, Peter Wiklund  peter.wikl...@journalistgruppen.se  wrote:
From: Peter Wiklund [mailto: peter.wikl...@journalistgruppen.se]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 14:24:45 +0100
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] off topic! Ortho film + Dektol?

Sorry, off topic - not pinhole.brbrJust saw and read about Cary Clifford 
pics at Photoeye's 
galleries.br(http://www.photoeye.com/Gallery/forms/index.cfm?id=180247image=1imagePosibrtion=1Door=2Portfolio=Portfolio1Gallery=2
 ).brbrIn her statemant:brI also use a process mostly borrowed from 
Sally Mann, in which I greatlybroverexpose Kodak ortho film and then process 
that film in Dektol for half abrminute or less, thereby achieving the ghostly 
effects you see in some of mybrphotographs.brbrAnyone who has tried 
this?brbrKodak ortho film, which one can that be?brbrThanks,brpeter 
in springtime stockholm, 
swedenbrbrbrbr___brPost 
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[pinhole-discussion] Reloading and Adapting Single-Use (Disposable) Cameras

2003-03-18 Thread George L Smyth
Howard was gratious enough to send me his article, Reloading and Adapting 
Single-Use (Disposable) Cameras, so it has been added to my site.

Go to http://GLSmyth.com/ and you will see it inthe Pinhole Articles section.

Cheers, and thanks for the article, Howard.

george

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] reversal processing

2003-02-26 Thread George L Smyth
I posted some formulas for doing this a while back, though I have yet to try it 
myself.  If there are archives then you may wish to check them.

Cheers -

george

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 --- On Wed 02/26, aaron  aa...@deadlettertype.com  wrote:
From: aaron [mailto: aa...@deadlettertype.com]
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
List-Post: pinhole-discussion@pinhole.com
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 11:47:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [pinhole-discussion] reversal processing

i'm curious if anyone on the list has any experience processing bw
paper negs to positives (reversal processing). i've done film this way,
and wonder if i can use the same steps (and same bleach) for paper. any
advice would be appreciated...

/aaron

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper negative by reversal

2003-02-06 Thread George L Smyth
Manuel -

That was probably me, as I posted a routine and chemicals required to do this a
while back.  I've not gotten around to trying it out, so I can't compare 

One correction to the text below - I believe that red and orange-colored
objects will show as light, not dark.

Cheers -

george


--- Manuel_Galán_Molina mgalanmol...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Hi list.
 Two years ago, i think, somebody put on the list a process to obtain paper
 negatives by reversal. I have mailed another process, see below, but i want
 to compare the two process. Anybody remembers this, or something like this?
 
 I put this email in the pinhole list also, sorry for duplication if anybody
 is on both list.
 
 Thanks
 
 Manuel, Spain
 
 My process (from http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/faq.html)
 
 PROCESSING ENLARGING PAPER AS A POSITIVE
 ...means you can use the paper in a camera and make one-of-a-kind images...
 
 ...roughly collected from info seen in various rec.photo postings...
 
 If you use the paper as a material in the camera then you may wish to
 consider
 using Panalure for normal looking results in terms of tonal reproduction.
 This is becasue normal BW papers are not sensitive to red and thus anything
 colored red in a scene will turn out very dark or black.
 
 You can also make BW prints directly from slides this way. Place a slide in
 the enlarger and project it onto BW paper. Again, to maintain more natural
 looking tones use Panalure.
 
 The chemicals and processing steps are as follows:
 
 First Developer 60-90 seconds
 Rinse   30 seconds
 Bleach R-9  30-60 seconds
 Rinse   30 seconds
 Clear CB-1  30 seconds
 Rinse   30 seconds
 Expose to light 40 W bulb for 5-10 seconds at 12 inches
 Second Developer30-60 seconds
 Fix 30-60 seconds
 WashNormal paper washing time
 Dry
 
 First Developer:  The original literature referring to this method of making
 positive prints from slides is Kodak Publication G-14, Direct Positive
 Photography. You can probably get a copy of it by calling the Kodak Hot
 Line
 at 800-242-2424. In any case, that booklet specified a high contrast
 developer
 such as D-88. Dektol or D-72 dilited 1:1 can probably be substituted
 successfully for D-88.
 
 Rinses should be under running water, or at least two changes in the 30
 seconds.
 
 The bleach is modified Kodak Bleach R-9:
 
 Water   800 mL
 Potassium Dichromate9.5 g
 Sodium Bisulfate 66 g
 Water to make 1 L
 
 Clear CB-1:
 
 Sodium Sulfite   90 g
 Water to make 1 L
 
 Second Developer can be Dektol again.  Or if you want a sepia toned print,
 skip the light exposure and use Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 (Sodium Sulfide
 20 g with water to make 1 L).
 
 As with any positive process, the resultant density value is opposite from
 ordinarily processed paper:  More exposure = lighter print, less exposure
 = darker print.

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New photo show

2003-01-31 Thread George L Smyth
--- Gordon J. Holtslander hol...@duke.usask.ca wrote:
 
 Hi:
 
 I don't think platinum would be a good choice as a start to alternative
 processes - not that its difficult, its just expensive.
[clip]

Gordon -

I completely agree.  I use the Van Dyke process and oftentimes the results are
confused with platinum or paladium.  I've come to the conclusion that platinum
is more often used BECAUSE it is more expensive - the viewer will be more
impressed with the cost of platinum and will be willing to pay more.

Some time back I posted a question to the Alt Process listserve as to why
anyone uses platinum as opposed to Van Dyke, expecting to hear claims about
longevity or something of that sort, and the above was pretty much the answer.

IMO, it is best to learn with an inexpensive process that will allow you to
screw up without worrying about it.  Then, once mastered, if it does not fit
your needs, consider other processes.  The inexpensive ones are Van Dyke,
Cyanotype, Salt, etc., and the more expensive, like platinum and Ziatype,
simply use the more costly ingredients.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Color paper negs

2003-01-29 Thread George L Smyth
Certainly, this depends upon the paper you purchased.  If you are going to use
Ilfochrome then you will be looking at EI1 or EI2 as a starting point in your
testing, assuming that you are using a filter to correct the color.

Cheers -

george


--- Sam Tischler altproc2...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hello,
 My name is 
 Sam Tischler this is my first post to this list and i
 have a relatively obscure question. (nothing is to
 obscure for pinholers) I want to make color paper
 negative in my pinhole cameras. I have ordered some
 paper and I am trying to do some testing before it
 gets here. (I am going to do this for a job on Friday)
 
 I wonder if anyone else has done this and if so what
 did you find the speed of the color paper to be in
 relation to say tri-x or BW paper. Any sugestions
 would be most helpful. 
 Thanks
 Sam
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] What is a silver print really?

2003-01-24 Thread George L Smyth
--- John Ptak jfjp...@yahoo.com wrote:
 I've got a question--are all light-sensitive silver
 compound prints technically silver prints?  When a
 reference is made to a 19th-century silver print, is
 this a reference to all
 non-cyanotype/albumen/salt/platinum etc processes?
 Thanks.  John Ptak

If the process uses silver, then it is a silver print.  I can't think of any
exceptions.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] not pinhole ... but !

2003-01-17 Thread George L Smyth
Hmmm, website usability problem - you see it all the time.  Thanks for the
info, as I had looked at a black screen and gone on.

Cheers -

george



--- Tom Miller tomwmil...@attbi.com wrote:
 The images are behind the numbers on the calendar at the top of the
 page.
 
 Tom
 
 - Original Message -
 From: andy schmitt aschm...@warwick.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 9:15 AM
 Subject: RE: [pinhole-discussion] not pinhole ... but !
 
 
  unfortunately the link : [panoscope360.com]  goes to the test page
 for the
  apache server...
  andy
 
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-07 Thread George L Smyth
Ahh, thanks for the explanation. g

Cheers -

george
(knuckle dragger)


--- Alan Cangemi ac-t...@msn.com wrote:
 Ahhh, George,
 
 Now I see the confusion.  The old style brains (those used before 1985) did
 in fact see lights as individual frames.  But the modern brain, especially
 those in people born after 1986, see light as a continuous stream.  Even
 though the old style brains are still manufactured and used (mostly for
 economic reasons.the new styled brains cost 4 times as much) most people
 nowadays are using the new brains.  It's easy to spot those with new and old
 styled brains.the old style recipients tend to drag their knuckles when they
 walk upright.
 
 Sorry for the confusion, George.
 
 Best regards.
 
 Alan (old style) Cangemi
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 8:56 PM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
 
 
  Well, you'll need to speak with my Physiological Psychology teacher of 30
 years
  ago, as that is what our textbook said.  We do not see things as
 continuous
  streams, but as frames.
 
  Cheers -
 
  george
 
 
 
  --- Alan Cangemi ac-t...@msn.com wrote:
   George.
  
   The brain DOES NOT take in light similar to a movie camera's film
 mechanism.
   It sees light as a continuous stream.  It is only through mechanical
   processes that wheels appear to be turning backwards whilst the vehicle
 is
   moving forward.
  
   So there!
  
   sreehC
  
   Alan
  
  
   - Original Message -
   From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
   To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
   Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:53 PM
   Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
  
  
While light does stream in continuously, the brain takes it in similar
 to
   a
movie camera's film.  This is why you may see a bicycle's tires appear
 to
   move
backwards as it goes forwards.
   
Cheers -
   
george
   
   
   
--- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
 Another thing occurs to me. The camera analogy is also limited by
 the
   fact
 that camera shutters open and close, while light streams into the
 human
   eye
 continuously. The operative 'shutter speed would have to be the
   duration of
 exposure to the rod or cone required to trigger nerve conduction. I
   don't
 know whether there is a trasmission period followed by a refractory
   period,
 which would equate to shutter speed, or not.
 - Original Message -
 From: erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:30 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye


  Here is some information I have. How it applies I'm not sure. The
 eye
   is
  only the aperture, lens and sensing apparatus. Because the eye is
   attached
  to the brain it would make more sense to use a digital camera as a
   model
  rather than film camera. The mind can read an image and give a
   response in
  as little as 0.04 seconds- a professional pingpong players
 response
   time,
  for instance. Nerve transmission time mind to brain can be
 measured by
  measuring cortical evoked potential responses to visual stimuli. I
   might
  have once know the limiting values but I don't recall them. A big
 name
   in
  research in this area is Meichenbaum, if you want to look it up.
 As
   for
  aperture, the lens to retina distance is roughly 25 mm. Maximum
 pupil
 size,
  i.e. aperture diameter, is maybe 8 mm in an adult, so the maximum
 F
   stop
  would be 25/8= 3.1. Minimum aperture would be about 25/2 for
   'pinpoint
  pupils, an F stop of 12.5. I think that the eye processes light
   sensation
  somewhat differently at low light levels, so film speed would be
 a
 guess.
  Remember too that the eye and brain cannot distinguish as separate
   images
  any sequence more rapid than about 14/second. That is the basis
 for
   movies
  and television, sequences of still images projected faster than
 the
   eye
 can
  distinguish, thus blending them into apparent continuous motion.
 
  I- Original Message -
  From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
 
 
   On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:
  
I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
Ellis
  
  
   When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the
  conclusion
   that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You
 can
  verify
   this by taking

Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-06 Thread George L Smyth
Well, you'll need to speak with my Physiological Psychology teacher of 30 years
ago, as that is what our textbook said.  We do not see things as continuous
streams, but as frames.

Cheers -

george



--- Alan Cangemi ac-t...@msn.com wrote:
 George.
 
 The brain DOES NOT take in light similar to a movie camera's film mechanism.
 It sees light as a continuous stream.  It is only through mechanical
 processes that wheels appear to be turning backwards whilst the vehicle is
 moving forward.
 
 So there!
 
 sreehC
 
 Alan
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:53 PM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
 
 
  While light does stream in continuously, the brain takes it in similar to
 a
  movie camera's film.  This is why you may see a bicycle's tires appear to
 move
  backwards as it goes forwards.
 
  Cheers -
 
  george
 
 
 
  --- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
   Another thing occurs to me. The camera analogy is also limited by the
 fact
   that camera shutters open and close, while light streams into the human
 eye
   continuously. The operative 'shutter speed would have to be the
 duration of
   exposure to the rod or cone required to trigger nerve conduction. I
 don't
   know whether there is a trasmission period followed by a refractory
 period,
   which would equate to shutter speed, or not.
   - Original Message -
   From: erick...@hickorytech.net
   To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
   Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:30 AM
   Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
  
  
Here is some information I have. How it applies I'm not sure. The eye
 is
only the aperture, lens and sensing apparatus. Because the eye is
 attached
to the brain it would make more sense to use a digital camera as a
 model
rather than film camera. The mind can read an image and give a
 response in
as little as 0.04 seconds- a professional pingpong players response
 time,
for instance. Nerve transmission time mind to brain can be measured by
measuring cortical evoked potential responses to visual stimuli. I
 might
have once know the limiting values but I don't recall them. A big name
 in
research in this area is Meichenbaum, if you want to look it up. As
 for
aperture, the lens to retina distance is roughly 25 mm. Maximum pupil
   size,
i.e. aperture diameter, is maybe 8 mm in an adult, so the maximum F
 stop
would be 25/8= 3.1. Minimum aperture would be about 25/2 for
 'pinpoint
pupils, an F stop of 12.5. I think that the eye processes light
 sensation
somewhat differently at low light levels, so film speed would be a
   guess.
Remember too that the eye and brain cannot distinguish as separate
 images
any sequence more rapid than about 14/second. That is the basis for
 movies
and television, sequences of still images projected faster than the
 eye
   can
distinguish, thus blending them into apparent continuous motion.
   
I- Original Message -
From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
   
   
 On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:

  I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
  anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
  camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
  aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
  Ellis


 When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the
conclusion
 that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You can
verify
 this by taking successive pictures of a waterfall.  We all know that
slowing
 down the shutter speed to a second or more will make for silky
 water,
which is
 not what we see.  From there, take pictures with faster and faster
   speeds
 (don't forget to take notes).  When you get the results, compare the
pictures
 with what you see and make the decision for yourself.

 Cheers -

 george

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 Pinhole-Discussion@p at ???
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-06 Thread George L Smyth
While light does stream in continuously, the brain takes it in similar to a
movie camera's film.  This is why you may see a bicycle's tires appear to move
backwards as it goes forwards.

Cheers -

george



--- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
 Another thing occurs to me. The camera analogy is also limited by the fact
 that camera shutters open and close, while light streams into the human eye
 continuously. The operative 'shutter speed would have to be the duration of
 exposure to the rod or cone required to trigger nerve conduction. I don't
 know whether there is a trasmission period followed by a refractory period,
 which would equate to shutter speed, or not.
 - Original Message -
 From: erick...@hickorytech.net
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:30 AM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
 
 
  Here is some information I have. How it applies I'm not sure. The eye is
  only the aperture, lens and sensing apparatus. Because the eye is attached
  to the brain it would make more sense to use a digital camera as a model
  rather than film camera. The mind can read an image and give a response in
  as little as 0.04 seconds- a professional pingpong players response time,
  for instance. Nerve transmission time mind to brain can be measured by
  measuring cortical evoked potential responses to visual stimuli. I might
  have once know the limiting values but I don't recall them. A big name in
  research in this area is Meichenbaum, if you want to look it up. As for
  aperture, the lens to retina distance is roughly 25 mm. Maximum pupil
 size,
  i.e. aperture diameter, is maybe 8 mm in an adult, so the maximum F stop
  would be 25/8= 3.1. Minimum aperture would be about 25/2 for 'pinpoint
  pupils, an F stop of 12.5. I think that the eye processes light sensation
  somewhat differently at low light levels, so film speed would be a
 guess.
  Remember too that the eye and brain cannot distinguish as separate images
  any sequence more rapid than about 14/second. That is the basis for movies
  and television, sequences of still images projected faster than the eye
 can
  distinguish, thus blending them into apparent continuous motion.
 
  I- Original Message -
  From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye
 
 
   On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:
  
I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
Ellis
  
  
   When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the
  conclusion
   that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You can
  verify
   this by taking successive pictures of a waterfall.  We all know that
  slowing
   down the shutter speed to a second or more will make for silky water,
  which is
   not what we see.  From there, take pictures with faster and faster
 speeds
   (don't forget to take notes).  When you get the results, compare the
  pictures
   with what you see and make the decision for yourself.
  
   Cheers -
  
   george
  
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Human eye

2003-01-05 Thread George L Smyth
On 22 Jul 2002, at 11:16, eco...@aol.com wrote:

 I know this is not strictly pinhole, but I wondered if
 anyone had access to the average human eye values for the
 camera variables. ie Respective - film speed, shutter speed,
 aperture, focus range, depth of field etc. Thanks
 Ellis


When I looked into shutter speed many years ago, I came upon the conclusion
that the eye's shutter speed is approximately 1/100 second.  You can verify
this by taking successive pictures of a waterfall.  We all know that slowing
down the shutter speed to a second or more will make for silky water, which is
not what we see.  From there, take pictures with faster and faster speeds
(don't forget to take notes).  When you get the results, compare the pictures
with what you see and make the decision for yourself.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Focus

2002-12-18 Thread George L Smyth
Ian -

I'm not sure what you mean.  Changing the size of the pinhole, without
question, changes the sharpness of the image, making it different, so niether
of your assertions are correct.  Eric Renner's book displays this with a
series, and can tell you that this is the case from first-hand experience.

Cheers -

george


--- Ian McKee photo...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 
 I made two assertions; 1) that at a given extension you will get the same
 image regardless of pinhole size and 2) that the sharpness was the same for
 each image.
 I will stuck to the first and admit I'm on shakier ground on the second.
 I used TMax 100 4x5 film and shot a scenic, a saguaro cactus at about 25
 feet. Examining the negatives and proofs only with a loupe, they appeared
 to me to be of similar sharpness. Also, I will admit I didn't shoot the
 whole series of pinholes but only a sampling.
 I plane to redo the experiment with the whole series to see if I am
 mistaken. 
 Regardless of the results, doing it is fun and enlightening!
  
 
 --- Ian McKee
 --- photo...@earthlink.net
 --- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] black dust

2002-12-17 Thread George L Smyth
--- Catherine Just blue_medic...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi,
 
 I made a 20x24 black and white photograph of a pinhole
 image for myself and one for my boyfriend as a gift.
 
 I had the print made at a lab and there is a line of
 black dust that is really noticable as it is really
 close to the middle of the print. 
 
 I know this is due to my pinhole camera not being
 clean when I took the shot. But is there a way to do
 something like spot toning only to whiten it up?? I
 don't really know if I will give him the print if I
 can't lighten that up, or cover it up completely.

Catherine -

Assuming that the lab made the print on black and white paper, you can very
carefully bleach the portions you want to lighten.

Water (125 deg F or 52 deg C) - 750.0 ml 
Potassium Ferricyanide - 50.0 grams 
Potassium Bromide - 10.0 grams 
Sodium Carbonate, monohydrated - 20.0 grams 
Add cold water to make - 1.0 liter 

I believe that you will need to refix the print following the bleach (and
perhaps Spottone any areas that were bleached too far).  This is not an easy
thing to do.

Another thing would be to use Spottone to touch up the negative, though that is
much easier than it sounds.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: pinhole IR

2002-12-11 Thread George L Smyth
--- ColdMarblePhoto coldmar...@dgbn.com wrote:
http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=jhb_ir_c
 yano092902.jpg

John -

Thanks for sharing the picture (I oftentimes use the cyanotype process myself).

Suggestion.  As you can see, the long URL wrapped, which means that some people
might have had problems finding it.  You can also see the picture by going to
http://tinyurl.com/3ffp - there, I'll bet that didn't wrap. g

If anyone has a long URL that they are concerned will wrap, I would suggest
going to http://tinyurl.com/.  Very simply, you enter a long URL and receive a
short one.  Then you can include it in a message without worry about it
wrapping.  Of course, this is free.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] bellows pinhole

2002-12-10 Thread George L Smyth
--- S and C Graham Foto scgrahamf...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Im new to pimhole and have biult 2 cameras, now im
 working on a 4x5 bellows pinhole (full movements)the
 front standard will allow me to change lens boards.
  has annyone biult a pinhole out of a view camera?just
 lookin for advise on this subject. thank you

Shannon -

Sure, I did.  Actually, I didn't have an extra lens holder, so I made one from
an aluminum pie pan.  I then attached my pinhole behind a larger hole in the
lens holder and I was off.  As I have numerous different-sized pinholes
within slide holders, I can select the proper size for the focal length I have
chosen.  The nice thing is that when one uses film holders, the pinhole camera
becomes less of a single-shot deal.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New Camera from Joaquin Casado and prompt box

2002-12-09 Thread George L Smyth
Margaret -

Actually, that is not my website (I did help lastyear, but was not selected to
help this past year).

I am sure that the individual maintaining the site will speak up.

Cheers -

george
http://GLSmyth.com


--- Margaret Graham mm...@drexel.edu wrote:
 George,
 
 Given your concern for usability, I know you will want to know about the
 problem
 I'm experiencing on your site at http://www.pinholeday.org/gallery/.  In
 attempting
 to view the April 28, 2002 images, I receive the following message:
 
 Fatal error: Cannot redeclare maketextimage() in
 /usr/www/users/pinhole/WPD/includes/setup.php on line 322 (Windows 2000, IE
 5, NS
 4.7 and Opera 6.01).
 
 Haven't yet tried NS6.  Clues?  The 2001 images are wonderful although it's a
 lot
 to click through.
 
 Margaret Graham
 
 George L Smyth wrote:
 
  --- Guillermo pen...@rogers.com wrote:
  
   - Original Message -
   From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
  
  
Hmmm, okay.  Very poor website design.  I would like to see more
 pictures,
   get
more details, maybe even find out how much it costs.  I have no desire
 to
   send
him an email.  Anyway, I do my email through Yahoo, so this doesn't do
 me
   a
whole lot of good.  Too bad that something that should be so simple
   becomes
impossible.  I wonder if the camera is similarly designed.
  
   Common George, give Joaquin a break.  The 1000's words the pictures in
 his
   site say speak very loud of his design and  craftmanship.
  
   I said in my post that this was a PRE-ANNOUCEMENT.   Joaquin sent me and 
 a
   couple of other persons an email for us to PRE-VIEW his new creation, the
   site IS NOT meant as THE site from which he'll sell this camera, nor it
 is
   intended to ANNOUNCE the camera to the world, it says in the home page
 that
   there will be a web site coming soon.
  
   I'll stop short of saying I made a mistake with my posting of Joaquin
   pre-announcement to the list, Joaquin indicated to me, he was surpriced
 to
   find this morning so many emails from people interested, so no question
 some
   people were impressed with the beauty of the cameras and wanted to know
   more.
 
  Guillermo
 
  I would think that he would want to know that whomever is putting together
 his
  site is doing so in a way that potential customers will be driven away. 
 Site
  designers too often indulge in grandiose designs meant to be cool that
 are
  actually unusable.  There is nothing more important than usability.
 
  Before the final design is complete, it would be best for the site designer
 to
  know of the negative feedback from potential customers.  If the site
 remains as
  is and goes live, he will lose many sales from people who have no idea how
 to
  use this confusing site.
 
  Just my opinion.
 
  Cheers -
 
  george
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Both Casado Cameras can also seen here

2002-12-08 Thread George L Smyth
--- John D. esq j...@johndesq.com wrote:
 
 Detailed views of the Hal camera:
 http://www.johndesq.com/dpr/hal

When I clicked on the 800X600 link, I got a popup that had another popup that
said to wait for the images to load.  I waited about five minutes and the popup
still said that, so I left.  Is this working?

Thanks -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] opps

2002-12-08 Thread George L Smyth
--- Kate Hudec hu...@rcn.com wrote:
 The URL is http://users.rcn.com/hudec

The pictures appear interesting, but I would recommend offering them larger, as
they're displayed pretty small.  Giving thumbnails that one can select to view
larger would be very helpful.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New Camera from Joaquin Casado and prompt box

2002-12-08 Thread George L Smyth
Hmmm, okay.  Very poor website design.  I would like to see more pictures, get
more details, maybe even find out how much it costs.  I have no desire to send
him an email.  Anyway, I do my email through Yahoo, so this doesn't do me a
whole lot of good.  Too bad that something that should be so simple becomes
impossible.  I wonder if the camera is similarly designed.

Cheers -

george


--- Thom Mitchell tjmi...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
 the prompt box is a java applet asking for your e-mail address which will
 run and then it will open you default -email client (PC world at least don't
 know Mac) and send a message to joaquin.cas...@wanadoo.es The camera looks
 interesting and more camera makers mean more options for the photographer,
 which is rarely a bad thing.
 
 - Original Message -
 From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 3:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] New Camera from Joaquin Casado
 
 
 
  --- Guillermo pen...@rogers.com wrote:
   Joaquin Casado, maker of the handsome 4x5 Hal Camera has know
 pre-announced
   the beautiful Curva120, as the name implies, it is a curved film plane
   taking 120 film.  Incredible design.  Take a look:
  
   http://usuarios.lycos.es/jsendec/curva_english.htm
 
  It does look pretty cool, though I wonder about the cost.  I clicked the
 link
  for more information, but got a Prompt box that then got rather confused.
 Oh
  well.  Usability is the most important thing on Web page.
 
  Cheers -
 
  george
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New Camera from Joaquin Casado

2002-12-07 Thread George L Smyth
--- Guillermo pen...@rogers.com wrote:
 Joaquin Casado, maker of the handsome 4x5 Hal Camera has know pre-announced
 the beautiful Curva120, as the name implies, it is a curved film plane
 taking 120 film.  Incredible design.  Take a look:
 
 http://usuarios.lycos.es/jsendec/curva_english.htm

It does look pretty cool, though I wonder about the cost.  I clicked the link
for more information, but got a Prompt box that then got rather confused.  Oh
well.  Usability is the most important thing on Web page.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Holiday Print Swap

2002-11-26 Thread George L Smyth
--- John Y. jonn...@thegrid.net wrote:
 Are we going to have a print/postcard swap this year?
 
 John

Anyone sending me a card will definitely get one in return.  

My address is:

George L Smyth
11024 Wood Elves Way
Columbia, MD 21044

If you'd like to be added to the largest Internet Photographic Handmade
Postcard Trading List in the world (well, I think so g), just visit
http://GLSmyth.com to see what it's all about.

Cheers -

george

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[pinhole-discussion] Re: [pinhole-dicussion] Reciprocity Failure (was reciprocal failure)

2002-11-23 Thread George L Smyth
--- karol dzikamal...@interia.pl wrote:
 hi
 i've got an Zero Image pinhole camera
 and i've got a question concerning sth called 'reciprocal failure'.
 In a instruction added to a camera it's written
 that it means that i need to multiply the speed by 2 when it's 1-2seconds,
 by 4 when it's 2-4...by 12 when it's more then 10 or sth like this. anyway
 it's written in a very simplified way so i'd like to know some details. the
 aperture in this camera is 138.

Karol -

What you are referring to is Reciprocity Failure.  Film is designed to be
exposed for a certain period of time, oftentimes 1/10,000 of a second through 1
second.  When you go outside of this design, the film will not properly capture
the image if exposed for this time period.  You need to adjust your exposure to
compensate for a time outside of the film's design.

Different films have different requirements when referenced in this context, so
it isn't as simple as just multiplying the exposure by two (for instance, Tri-X
and TMX are dramatically different).  Look at the reciprocity failure
information on the sheet of paper that comes with the film you use, and adjust
according to the directions there.  If you do not have that paper, enter
reciprocity failure and the film type into Google and find it there.

Cheers -

george

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Polaroid Negatives

2002-11-19 Thread George L Smyth
--- António_Vieira antonio.vie...@siemens.com wrote:
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: dalf...@aol.com [mailto:dalf...@aol.com]
  Sent: Sábado, 16 de Novembro de 2002 20:41
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Subject: Re: [pinhole-discussion] Polaroid Negatives
  
  
  In a message dated 11/16/2002 10:35:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
  jruss...@wishtv.com writes:
  
   've been shooting with a Polaroid 545 back for a couple 
  months now.  I've
been tossing my negatives in the trash after development.  
  I was wondering
if there was a way to fix the negatives so that I can keep 
  them for future
use.  I remember seeing something about this, but I can't 
  remember where I
saw it or how I go about doing it.  Whatever the process 
  is, is it the same
for both BW and color negatives?

   If you are using Polaroid Type 55 film(BW) , you can do a 
  couple of things, 
  if you overexpose by one stop , you will get a lighter  
  print, but get a 
  bit more dense negative . If you are  in the field , you can 
  put the neg into 
  a zip lock baggie filled with water, and clear the negative 
   with Hypo 
  Clear once you get home . 
 
 
 
 I was thinking in trying type 55, but I was going to the sodium sulfite. What
 exactly is the Hypo Clear??

Hypo Clear is a solution that removes the sodium (or ammonium) thiosulfate from
the substrate following fixing.  I clear my negatives with PermaWash, which is
a commercial solution used to wash prints.

Of course, none of this has anything to do with the original question, which
had to fixing the negative.  As previously stated, I do not believe that fixing
Type 55 film is necessary - I have numerous old negatives that have simply been
cleared and dried.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Polaroid Negatives

2002-11-16 Thread George L Smyth
--- Jason Russell jruss...@wishtv.com wrote:
 I've been shooting with a Polaroid 545 back for a couple months now.  I've
 been tossing my negatives in the trash after development.  I was wondering
 if there was a way to fix the negatives so that I can keep them for future
 use.  I remember seeing something about this, but I can't remember where I
 saw it or how I go about doing it.  Whatever the process is, is it the same
 for both BW and color negatives?

I've always just cleared and washed them.  I've got some several years old that
are just fine.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] ciba/ilfochrome speed ratings

2002-11-14 Thread George L Smyth
I've got a friend who used Ilfochrome with pinhole and uses EI 1 to get his
images.  This is a very slow paper, much slower than regular BW paper.  He
uses it with either an 85A or 85B (I forget which).

Cheers -

george



--- drew d...@15munroe.com wrote:
 I plan on making a simple 8x10 single sheet ciba camera this week. I've
 searched high and low (including the archives) and have found almost
 nothing that states the EI of ilfochrome...
 
 It seems a popular enough pinhole medium to shoot on so im puzzled by
 the lack of info.
 
 I have seen some references to EI 1 through about EI 100.
 
 I don't fear the experimentation but even with home processing @ about 5
 minutes a pop it is time consuming and I of course want to spend as much
 time in the light as possible.
 
 Anyone with ballparks based in actual pinhole exposures?
 
 Thanks in advance
 -drew
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Limited Edition Pinhole Polaroid Camera

2002-11-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- Guy Glorieux guy.glori...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 
 - Original Message -
 From: George L Smyth glsm...@yahoo.com
  
   http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1395685792
 
  I'm not sure that overpriced even begins to describe it. g
 
  george
 
 What's most amazing about eBay is that someone will probably buy it at
 that price...!  The trick for the seller is to describe the item as
 limited edition or rare or any word that suggests there may not be
 another occasion to get that particular item.  Buyers then flock like
 sheeps and bid the price up to unbelievable levels...
 
 Guy

Don't get me wrong, I love eBay, but this sort of thing just makes me shake my
head.  The most outrageous thing I ever saw there was a used Kleenex (it went
for 25 cents).

Sometimes people need to think why an item would be a limited edition.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Limited Edition Pinhole Polaroid Camera

2002-11-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- James Kellar pinh...@jameskellar.com wrote:
 I was wondering if any one else saw this on ebay? Has any one heard of 
 this camera? Seems a bit over priced?
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1395685792

I'm not sure that overpriced even begins to describe it. g

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper negative questions

2002-11-05 Thread George L Smyth
--- Andrew  Amundsen a...@tcinternet.net wrote:
 Hi everyone, I am freshly inspired after this weekends pinhole forum, hosted
 by Tom Miller and Bill Erikson, at the pARTs gallery in Minneapolis. Very
 nice job, hope to see more like it.
 
 I'm interested in trying paper negative work with pinhole. So I have a
 couple quick questions for those with paper negative experience:
 
 1) What brand of single weight photo paper has NO labeling on it's back?
 
 2) Does the Kodak name, from the back, show through on the final print when
 you print with that brand? or is it faint enough not to?

In my experience, I have never seen the Kodak logo.

 3) Which is best to use RC or fiber?

You want something that is going to make good contact when contact printing. 
Glossy RC will go firmly in contact when it is time to print.

 4) Any good starting exposures for brands of paper you might be familiar
 with?

Ilford MGIV EI2 would be a good starting point.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper negative questions

2002-11-05 Thread George L Smyth
--- Katharine Thayer ktha...@pacifier.com wrote:
 Andrew Amundsen wrote:
 
  
  1) What brand of single weight photo paper has NO labeling on it's back?
 
 Kodak single-weight paper has no labeling on the back.  

Keep in mind that single weight paper is going to curl like mad.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] zone plate

2002-10-28 Thread George L Smyth
If it's down, you can get to much of the information mirrored on my site at
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Articles/PinholeArticles.htm.

Cheers -

george



--- John Fisher photobu...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Would you check the URL? I have tried to open the site.But haven't had any 
 luck. thank you
 
 
 
 
 
 From: Paul Prober pro...@silcom.com
 Reply-To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] zone plate
 Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2002 15:34:34 -0700
 
 
 Hi,
 
   Chris Patton at Pinhole and beyond has a zone plate area. The site 
 address
 is
 www.standford.edu/~cpatton/zp.html  There is many zone plate lens, plus
 formulas for focusing the lens to subject.
 Paul Prober
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] new images

2002-10-23 Thread George L Smyth
--- Ingo Guenther ingoguent...@web.de wrote:
 Hi all,
 the upload on the listpage
 
 http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002/
 
 from 22th of october are the results from my last workshop on a college in
 Oldenburg.
 All images from homemade cameras (film cannister).

Ingo -

Please check the URL - I got a Page Cannot Be Displayed error.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] maybe of topic, but...

2002-10-09 Thread George L Smyth
I had no problems developing E6.  I simply filled my kitchen sink with water
about two degrees higher than required, and after bringing my chemicals to
temperature, used that holding bath to keep everything steady.

I do agree, however, that taking C41 to a one hour lab will probably be easier.
 I do my own E6 because I occasionally shoot color infrared and cannot trust
the processing machines locally.

Cheers -

george



--- erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
 My experience was that it was very sensitive to small temperature changes.
 Processing around 100 degrees makes it harder to keep the temperature
 stable. It's a heck of a lot easier and just as cheap to have your local one
 hour do it for you. There's nothing creative about it and it's easy to
 spoil.
 - Original Message -
 From: Gustavo glpo...@hehe.com
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Tuesday, October 08, 2002 4:18 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] maybe of topic, but...
 
 
  I´m thinking about processing c-41 at home, but before i start, i need
 some
  info about the process. Could you gimme any help/link ?
 
  _
  Free email with personality! Over 200 domains!
  http://www.MyOwnEmail.com
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Lunch Hour Pinhole Project

2002-10-04 Thread George L Smyth
Jeff -

In that case, I would recommend that you consider using the services of
www.Brinkster.com (I have no affiliation with them other than having
www.DRiPInvesting.org and the Internet Photographic Handmade Postcard Trading
List at www.GLSmyth.com on their site).  They are the only site that I know of
that offers free web space without any advertising, something that was
available during the dot.bomb bubble.

I was able to get to the site.  I did something quite similar a number of years
ago.  I would place my pinhole camera in or near a stream and come back an hour
or two later on to retrieve it.  I often wondered what would happen if anyone
saw me do this, as I use a coffee can as one of my cameras.  When I bring such
a device into a restaurant to take a picture, people look at me and think, If
he leaves without that thing, I'm out of here. g

Cheers -

george




--- Jeff Dilcher r...@hiddenworld.net wrote:
 
 
 
  I was not able to get to http://hiddenworld.net:81/Lunch_Hour_Pinhole.html.
  Is
  it down or is the URL wrong?
 
  Thanks -
 
  george
 
 
 
 Users behind restrictive firewalls may not be able to access the site, as
 it is on port 81.  This is because my little web site runs off my cable
 modem, and the friendly ATT folks have decided to not allow port 80
 traffic (the standard http port).
 
 This is not a problem for most people, unless they have system
 administrators that are overly restrictive about how they access the `net,
 they should be able to be routed to the port 81.
 
 After paying my exhorbitant broadband fee, unfortunately I don't have any
 money left over to lease space on a real server!
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] weddings

2002-10-03 Thread George L Smyth
Catherine -

The black on dark burgendy makes things very difficult to read.  I didn't even
see the links at the bottom until I had gone through several pages.  The
numeric links are very small and since the link color does not change, I do not
know which images I have seen and which I have not.

Cheers -

george



--- Catherine Just blue_medic...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 I am curious if anyone has used a pinhole camera at a
 wedding?
 
 I would LOVE to use one there as another means to
 creating alternative imagery while also...supporting
 myself with the craft!
 
 My website just went up 2 days ago...mainly for my
 commercial work. I think the fine art doesn't read
 very well on the site.
 
 
 http://www.catherinejust.com
 
 would LOVE to have people think of me if interested in
 more alternative ways to capture everyday/special
 events.
 
 C
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole enlarging

2002-10-03 Thread George L Smyth
--- Uptown Gallery mur...@uptowngallery.org wrote:
 Hello:
 
 If one did MF (4x5 or 5x7) or LF (8x10) sheet film pinhole (and had an
 enlarger large enough), what are the prospects for enlarging?
 
 I was very unhappy with 4x6 prints from 35mm pinhole.

Everything depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.  I wanted to contact
print mine, so I shot 8X10 (these can be seen at
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Projects/BearSkins/BearSkins.htm) and used
the Van Dyke process to print tem out.  I primarily use 4X5 (this and larger is
considered large format - 120 film is considered medium format) for its
flexibility and have enlarged it to 16X20, though I feel that some images would
not work well with this size enlargement.

It really depends upon what you are looking to do, so you'll need to make the
judgement for your own images.  I do not believe that there is a universal
answer for this.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Lunch Hour Pinhole Project

2002-10-03 Thread George L Smyth
--- Jeff Dilcher dilc...@hiddenworld.net wrote:
 I have started a little project, to keep myself amused, called Lunch Hour 
 Pinhole Project.  Feel free to check out the first installment.  Wednesday's 
 picture suffered from a stuck shutter, but the rest of the week turned out 
 ok!
 
 
 http://hiddenworld.net:81/Lunch_Hour_Pinhole.html

I was not able to get to http://hiddenworld.net:81/Lunch_Hour_Pinhole.html.  Is
it down or is the URL wrong?

Thanks -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pintoids revisited

2002-09-16 Thread George L Smyth
--- Marcy Merrill ma...@merrillphoto.com wrote:
 Hi all: A while back there was a thread about pinhole cameras made from
 Altoid containers. I meant to comment. Later, there was a thread about
 multiple-holed pinhole cameras. I meant to comment. I just finished an
 exhibit of some of my pinhole images. I meant to post about it.
 Anyway, I've spent my afternoon posting Pintoid images to my Pintoid page
 ( www.merrillphoto.com/pintoids.htm ). I've been using acupuncture needles
 to make pinholes and they work well. I'm going to try porcupine quills next.
 Anyone tried it? Just curious. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks to
 everyone for such an informative list! -MM

Marcy -

Very nice.  I especially liked the multiple pinhole images.  What is your
exposure time with the Altoid container?

Cheers -

george

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] ilford

2002-09-09 Thread George L Smyth
--- ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com wrote:

 Film
 Last Friday someone told me about this film.
 http://www.theeconozone.com/econozone/xxx4.html
 http://www.theeconozone.com/econozone/xxx4.htmlI have to tried it yet
 but later I will.   Right now I'm shooting 4x5 TMAX 400.  I do not like this
 film because I'm not getting the high contrast.  Some people might love it
 but I'm not getting the results, plus its very expensive compared to ortho
 litho film and the chemical are cheap.   

You can alter the contrast by altering your processing.  You can decrease the
dilution of your developer, increase the time of your development, increase the
temperature of your developer, or increase the agitation of your development. 
I would recommend beginning with the last, as the TMax series of films expects
a greater degree of agitation then its older films (like Tri-X).  Read the
directions on this.  I would recommend continuous agitation by using tubes.

As far as expense is concerned, 4X5 sheet film only costs about 50 cents per
sheet.  Whereas I will use orthochromatic film when shooting in the larger
sizes (8X10 and larger), I think that you will find problems with gradation and
proper rendering to be more apparent when working with smaller sheets of film. 
Anyway, I would not recommend going the cheap route on film for cheapness'
sake, unless you are sure to have the opportunity to reshoot.

 Developing trays. 
 I use those sandwich containers with the lids.   I have one for the film
 developer and the other for fixer and one for water.   I use the lids
 because it cuts down on the fumes because I do not have the best ventilation
 system. 

Don't forget to use Stop Bath.  Stop has two excellent purposes.  The first is
to give you the ability to stop the development at precisely the time you wish.
 This is very important when developing film.  The other purpose is to be used
as a buffer between the developer and the fix.  You will exhaust your fix
considerably faster if you forgo this step.  It doesn't make sense not to use a
Stop Bath.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] ilford

2002-09-09 Thread George L Smyth
--- kelca...@aol.com wrote:
 Okay now that I'm finally building a darkroom I can hopefully start 
 understanding more about the whole pinhole process and see more eye to eye 
 with it rather than just read the discussion e-mails and try to figure out 
 what goes where in all that lingo I'm not aware of yet. I'm very excited for 
 this I have so many ideas for pinhole and can't wait to start though I have a
 question (and probibly many questions to come) as to what kind or brand of 
 developer, stop bath, and fixer I should use in order to get the best results
 with ilford paper?

kelseyj -

You will find that experimentation will yield your best results - what works
for one person may not be what another is seeking.

I would recommend that you start out with the standards, Kodak Dektol,
Indicator Stop Bath, and Rapid Fixer.  If you are using RC paper, I would very
highly recommend that you tone it (with selenium - sepia and gold are other
alternatives) to ensure its permenance.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Theme o' the month

2002-09-04 Thread George L Smyth
--- ethereal art ethereal...@mindspring.com wrote:
 Andrew Amundsen wrote
 That would be a fun idea, Andrew. How about a pinhole swap, too? Those are
 usually fun. 

Rosanne -

About 275 of us do this regularly and occasionally - I've been doing it for
about ten years.  I get prints literally from all over the world, which is a
real blast.

If you go to http://GLSmyth.com and look at The Internet Photographic Handmade
Postcard Trading List, you can either join the list or simply send to as many
on the list as you wish.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Strange Problem and I need some help.

2002-08-13 Thread George L Smyth
--- Eric S. Theise mat...@cyberwerks.com wrote:
 ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J writes:
  I also might be getting a reflection
  from my pinhole because I did not want to pant it black, because they say
 it
  will mess up your hole, so this could be a problem.   To tried to get
 around
  this problem by using electrical tape to cover as much of the metal I
 could.
  I bet that light could reflect off of the tape.
 
 Yes, electrical tape is pretty shiny and I'd avoid it on a camera's
 interior.  To mask my pinholes, I use gaffers tape, which has a nice
 matte, non-reflective surface.  Regular duct tape is shiny enough to
 worry me, too.

Another way of masking the pinhole surface is to simply blacken it with a
Sharpie.  

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions-How to develop ortho

2002-08-13 Thread George L Smyth
--- jmeyerh...@aol.com wrote:
 How do you develop ortho film for continuous tone? Thank you...j

Use dilute Dektol.  I use Dektol 1+15, though I may opt for 1+10 through 1+20
depending upon the scene and its final purpose (I might use 1+10 if I am going
to print with the Van Dyke process).  Best thing to do is to experiment.

Cheers-

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Strange Problem and I need some help.

2002-08-13 Thread George L Smyth
--- ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com wrote:
 My photos are having problems and I posted some example hoping that I can
 find out what is the problem.   Please note that this is my first camera and
 I have been doing this for about a week.  I'm just trying to work out the
 kinks in my camera design.
 
 This photo was a 2-min exposure on a very overcast sky about 20 min before
 sunset.  I just wanted to see how a long exposure would turn out.  Can you
 see the two vertical lines down the middle of the photo?  What could cause
 that?   
 http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstar
 t=pic=trfarm_lines.jpg
 
 The photo below was the same shot but was a 1 min and 30 second exposure and
 now I have a strange light source coming from the bottom.  Could it be cause
 by a problem with my pinhole?  I sure I don't have any light leaks.   I'm
 using an oatmeal pinhole camera. 
 http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?cmd=maxstar
 t=pic=trfarm_lightproblem.jpg

Chances are that the light you are seeing is caused by a reflection from the
surface of your film or paper.  Did you paint the inside of the camera black? 
That will help, though it may not eliminate the problem.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Newbie Intro. and a few questions

2002-08-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- Fox, Robert r...@aarp.org wrote:
[clip]
 Are there any practical reasons to shoot at 4x5 rather than 8x10?  I suppose
 it would be easy enough to do both, but I'm wondering about people's
 preferences for architectural and portrait work. The multi-format Zero2000
 looks like a good starter as well given the choice of formats for standard
 roll film.

8X10 film is four times more expensive than 4X5 film (makes sense).  The bulk
of an 8X10 camera, along with the slide holders, make things much more
difficult to work with.  Then again, if you are going to use an alternative
process to print, then you will probably want a larger negative to work with. 
I've got some examples at
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Projects/BearSkins/BearSkins.htm if you
would like to take a look.

An alternative to regular 8X10 film is to use halftone film of that size, which
costs considerably less.  The image Jimmy (found at
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Images/PinholeImages.htm) was made
with this film.

I would also direct you to the Pinhole FAQ located at
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hmpi/Pinhole/Articles/FAQ/pin_faq.htm.  There you
will find enough information to get you going in the right direction.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] that old reciprocity failure question again

2002-08-08 Thread George L Smyth
--- Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Hi. I have two reciprocity failure charts.  One is from Kodak and the other
 is from Steve Simmons' book, Using the View Camera.  They give very
 different adjusted times for Tri X, when you get to very long exposures.
 For example, if the metered time is 30 seconds, Kodak says to expose for 200
 seconds, and Simmons says 290, almost half again as long.  Also, the
 adjusted development percentages are very different.  Kodak says 10% off
 even for an adjusted exposure of only 2 seconds, and 20% off if your
 adjusted exposure is 50 seconds, whereas Simmons doesn't even begin to
 decrease development until exposure reaches 13 seconds, and then only by 5%.
 If exposure is 50 seconds, he says to reduce development by about 9%.  This
 is confusing. I wonder whose numbers are right?

You can find out by testing.  The developer you use may well make a difference,
so test with the developer you plan to use.

Cheers -

george

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RE: [pinhole-discussion] Camera Size?

2002-08-07 Thread George L Smyth
--- ROBERTSON,TRAVIS J is-...@womans.com wrote:
 I would like to make 16X20 prints (That is I want to put the paper in the
 camera) and I'm trying to figure out how large of a pinhole camera I would
 need.  Any suggestions on how to figure this out? 

Travis -

I made a 16X20 camera a while back, and it realy depends upon how wide an angle
you want.  You can make it pretty much as shallow or as deep as you want.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Keeping your images away from the evil robots!

2002-08-02 Thread George L Smyth
John -

robots.txt is a standard tool, as you said, that directs search engine robots
away from specified directories and files.  I use this at work to ensure, for
instance, that maintenance areas of our website will not be crawled.

I'm not sure why one would want to lock out the information that one is hoping
to disseminate, however.  Obviously, this is a personal choice and one should
do whatever fits within their comfort level, but were someone to click on an
image of mine via Google, they would be directed to my website, which would be
just fine.

Cheers -

george




--- John Yeo jonn...@thegrid.net wrote:
 This is a little off topic, as it doesn't relate directly to pinhole, but
 many members of this list have websites exhibiting their work, so I decided
 to put it out there.  I have recently noticed a few requests every day on my
 webserver for robots.txt.  After getting that file (which doesn't even
 exist on my webserver!), they would download various other html files.  I
 found all these requests for the non-existant file strange, and also that
 the html files were being downloaded, but the images weren't being viewed
 (well, not usually).
 
 After looking a bit on google, I discovered that these are actually robots
 or spiders that scour the internet for various reasons, such as collecting
 information for search engines, but more importantly, linking or stealing
 your images.  Fortunately, you can lock these robots out of parts of your
 website, or the whole site itself.  Usually you would want to leave the site
 open for search engines to increase traffic, but lock out your gallery so
 sites like http://images.google.com, can't get at your artwork.
[clip]

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Painting inside of tins

2002-08-01 Thread George L Smyth
--- Jeff Dilcher dilc...@hiddenworld.net wrote:
 Can anyone give advice on what to look for in a paint that
 will be used to paint and darken the inside of tins?
 
 I have not made a pinhole camera from a tin, and was thinking
 of using some of my pipe tobocco circular tins as wide angle
 cameras.

Use sandpaper to rough the inside and use flat paint.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Great pinhole site.

2002-07-27 Thread George L Smyth
--- Jeffery Atkins merstu...@aol.com wrote:
 I just stumbled across a great pinhole site and thought I would share it 
 with the group.
 http://www.pinhole.nl/index.htm
 After you explore the images, check out the info link to see her cameras 
  environment constructions. Way cool! Pure art.

This is fun stuff.  I don't exactly appreciate the difficulty of the site's
navigation, but she does have some interesting ideas.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] lack of pinhole images on photosig

2002-07-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- pinholeren...@netscape.net wrote:
 I have been looking at the photo site PHOTOSIG for pinhole images  can find
 only a few.I would love to see more pinhole  zoneplate images represented on
 the site.I would like to know if any of the people on the list post images on
 the site.lets get some more exposure for a great camera  process.
 chip renner

I don't know anything about this site (I don't even know the URL), but since it
is free and easy to create your own website, I would expect that pinholers
simply create their own site and display their work.

Cheers-

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] [pinhole discussion] New Lith Print

2002-07-04 Thread George L Smyth
 http://www.???/discussion/upload/gallery2002.php?pic=chri
 sharkness
 .jpg

The message came to me as above.  Fortunately, I knew to paste it together so
that I could appreciate the image.

There is a good way to distribute long URLs so that they won't break up.  One
option is to go to http://www.tinyurl.com.  In the above case, the link could
be shortened to http://tinyurl.com/k95.  The site is free to use.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] white holes in negatives

2002-06-27 Thread George L Smyth
--- Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net wrote:
 What causes negatives to get those little holes in them?  Not literally 
 all the way through the film base, but holes in the emulsion, like little
 clear or white specks?  I think I heard some place that you can prevent
 those by using water instead of stop, but I always use water and I get them
 anyway.  Maybe I'm handling the negatives too roughly?

Are you referring to sheet film?  If so, then they are probably dust specks.  I
had this problem for a while but have been able to get rid of most of them by
cleaning the film holder and slide before loading.  I use an attachment to my
Dust Buster that lets me work on a small area.  Cleaning them from the dust
particles that have settled since the last time I used them is essential, since
one flips the slide to the other side after exposure, so it will accumulate
dust naturally.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Kodak Revisions to films.......

2002-06-25 Thread George L Smyth
I guess it hasn't been improved in ten years, and still won't be ten years from
now. g

Cheers -

george



--- D Hill zopp...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Well friends, it's happening again...  I don't want to be a Fuji fanatic -
 preferably an evangelist.  If you want a good substitution for good-ole
 Tri-X, get a can of Fuji Neopan 400.  Still the same film it was 10 years
 ago, and still the same film 10 years from now.
 Thanks for the info Andy,
 Don
   Andy Schmitt aschm...@warwick.net wrote: Kodak Revisions: Due to a change
 in film base, Kodak has announced that all
 TMax, Plus-X and Tri-X films are to be rereleased with revised names and
 development times. The new films are replacing the old ones as stock runs
 out, and Kodak anticipates the changeover taking place between now and the
 end of the year. New Tri-X data has yet to be published, but some times are
 available for the other films. Existing development times differ only
 marginally from the new times, so all current development data remains
 perfectly usable as starting points. Click here for further information and
 to identify which version of the film you are using.
 http://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/tables/kodaklookup.html
 
 Thought you might like to know...
 
 regards
 Andy Schmitt
 
 Computerist, Photographer, Slayer of Dragons
 All opinions expressed are mine...
 Unless otherwise stated or REALLY stupid
 www.aandy.org - not non-profit on purpose
 Head of Photography, Paters Valley Craft Center
 
 
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RE: [pinhole-discussion] re: paper negative

2002-06-25 Thread George L Smyth
Has anyone ever confirmed that the logo on the back affects the image?  As
previously stated, when I tried a Kodak paper (it was probably Polycontrast
III) I saw no logo when I contact-printed the negative.

Cheers -

george



--- D Hill zopp...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Another note on papers.  I used to use Ilford, but I got cranky at the price
 one day so I picked up a box of Mitsubishi Gekko Matte, tried it and liked it
 - and It's also great for proofs.  It is a wonderful matte surface VC RC
 paper, and is quite inexpensive at about $33 for 100 - 8x10.  It does not
 have the logo imprinted on the back.  You can get the stuff through Freestyle
 if you want to try it.  However, if all of us run out to freestyle to
 purchase the great inexpensive paper - they just might play the kodak game
 and charge up the price.  Ah, the joys of photography.
 Don
   Andy Schmitt aschm...@warwick.net wrote: confirmed...Ilford is logo
 free...
 andy
 
 -Original Message-
 From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
 [mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of James
 Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2002 7:40 PM
 To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] re: paper negative
 
 
 on paper negatives: seagull oriental brand papers (confirmed with my own
 eyes) and forte brand (as told by company representative) do not have logos.
 i've heard that ilford is also logo free. ISO is between 6 and 2. i've been
 using film developer for about 5-10 minutes, and this reduces the contrast
 somewhat. you might take a took at this url, the history and how to of paper
 negatives, including info on william mortenson's special techniques:
 
 http://www.photography.about.com/library/weekly/aa051302a.htm
 
 
 --
 James Luckett
 http://consumptive.org
 
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] reciprocity failure and development times

2002-06-24 Thread George L Smyth
Jay -

If reciprocity failure has caused an underexposure of the scene, then
increasing the development is simply going to increase the contrast of the
scene.  If shadow values have not received enough exposure, then no amount of
developing is going to bring them back.

Cheers -

george



--- b1jmgj58 plasticfo...@sympatico.ca wrote:
 Hello Shannon,
 
 For longer exposures I always use a water / developer technique.  I expose
 my film normally and figure any reciprocity law failure as need and factor
 that into my development time like usual.  I ususally use this process when
 I shoot at night but it also works for long exposures during the day. You
 setup your regular developer, stop and fix and also a tank of water.  Now
 the development of your negatives will take alot longer.
 
 Example if your development time is 7min you must break down the development
 time like this:
 
 30 sec in developer AGITATING ALL THE TIME
 30 sec in water NO AGITATION
 
 THIS ONE MINUTE OF DEVELPER / WATER ONLY EQUALS 15sec OF ACTUAL DEVELOPMENT
 TIME. SO TO GET 1 MINUTE OF DEVELOPMENT TIME YOU MUST DO THIS 4 TIMES: 15sec
 X  4 = 60 sec
 
 So your original 7 min development time now turns into 28 min with this
 technique of every 30 secs moving the negatives from the developer to the
 water and back untill the 28mins is up.  O yes this of course must be done
 in complete darkness because you have to use open tanks to transfer the negs
 from the developer to the water. For regular 35mm film load it on a reel or
 if you are using sheet film onto those metal guides for dip and dunk
 development.  The process seems very long but believe me you will not
 believe the results that you get I have been using this technique for a year
 and a half and I am still impressed with the detail you get in the highlight
 and the shadows and the negatives print up beautifully.  What the water does
 is wash out the developer in the highlights because they develop really
 quickly but it has no effect on the shadows and lets them still develop
 normally.  I have tried other techniques like the Bird Bath and mixing fast
 and slow developers but I find this works best.  I hope this helps you if
 you have any question feel free to contact me about this and tell me how it
 works out for you.
 
 JAY.
 
 Shannon Stoney wrote:
 
  Sorry to have a one track mind, but I am still thinking about whether you
  need to change your development times when you make long exposures. The
  theory seems to be that highlights expose more than shadows during long
  exposures, so that you should under-develop.  But, when I do this the
  highlights look too dull.  I am wondering if this rule is really true.
  What do other people on this list do?  Do you develop less as you make
  longer exposures?
 
  --shannon
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] reciprocity failure and development times

2002-06-24 Thread George L Smyth
--- gregg b. mc neill gbmcne...@hotmail.com wrote:
[clip]

 The whole thing about overexpose and under develop, or underexpose to over 
 develop never made sense to me as the conditions under which I shoot could 
 change mid-roll.
 
 gregg mcneill

Actually, this has more to do with working with sheet film, as one can alter
the exposure and development to suit the particular scene.

This really has to do with dealing with contrast, but reciprocity failure has
more to do with simply proper exposure.  I have always developed normally when
dealing with reciprocity failure and obtained good results.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Cutting oatmeal box

2002-05-25 Thread George L Smyth
--- Chris Harris cpharrisph...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I'll be teaching a pinhole class, constructing cameras from Quaker oatmeal 
 canisters. I'd like to avoid using knives to cut the opening for the 
 pinhole.
 
 I've seen suggestions for using a Dremel drill, which I don't own. A trip to 
 my local hardware store wasn't helpful; the tool guy said a Dremel wouldn't 
 cut a clean hole in cardboard and pointed out the cost of the drill.

You don't really need a clean hole.  I'm assuming that you will be making a
pinhole from pie pan aluminum (or something like that), then affixing it to the
inside of the cannister over the larger hole.  That being the case, I would
think that just about anything would work - perhaps use a pencil to make the
hole, then use sandpaper to smooth the burrs.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] painting cookie tin cameras

2002-05-23 Thread George L Smyth
--- Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I just developed a negative that I made in a cookie tin camera  yesterday.
 It looks sort of flat;  that is , there are no good darks I suspect, just
 looking at the negative. It looks like it might be fogged all over sort of
 evenly. I wonder if that might be because the inside of the tin is still a
 bit shiny.  It's as if the shininess of the tin is showing through the black
 although you can't see any unpainted tin.   I gave it one coat of flat
 black; should I give it another coat?  Also, I got rather cheap black
 enamel.  Maybe I should have gotten a slightly better grade.

Did you paint the bottom of the can, as well as its lid?  I don't think that
the quality of the paint will have much to do with it, but if the inside is not
completely covered, then you should try an additional coat of paint.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] film canister cameras

2002-05-22 Thread George L Smyth
When I made my film cannister camera, I made a separate pinhole from aluminum
pie pan stock and affixed it to the inside of the cannister.  I don't think
that it will work too well to just poke a hole in the plastic (well, for some,
this may be what they are looking for, but it just isn't my style).

Cheers -

george



--- Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
  Hi,
  it´'s normal if the pinhole is direkt in the plastic of the can. Try a
  greater opening -like your penny- in the film-cannister and put the pinhole
  (from soda-can or each other thin material)in the middle of this greater
  hole.
  This will work great.
 
 OK. I did this when I made a pinhole camera out of a cookie tin.  But why
 does it make a difference if the hole is made out of thin metal?  Does the
 thickness of the plastic make the image smaller?
 
 --shannon
 
  regards, ingo
  - Original Message -
  From: Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net
  To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
  Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 7:17 AM
  Subject: [pinhole-discussion] film canister cameras
 
 
  How big is the image supposed to be with the film canister cameras?  I
  made
  an exposure today and it's about the size of a penny.  Is that normal?
 
  --shannon
 
 
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Litho - Halftone film question

2002-05-20 Thread George L Smyth
--- Greg Newberry grnewbe...@qwest.net wrote:
 I'm building an 8x10 pinhole camera and I planned on using RC paper for the
 negative and then contact print it. It was recommended to me to also
 consider using sheet film because of the flexibility of doing alternative
 contact prints. Litho/Half tone film was recommended because of it's price.
 Can someone tell me about this type of film? What kind of negative do you
 get? How do you develop it? Brand  price? What you gain or loose over using
 normal sheet negatives?

If you're going to be using it for alternative processing, you'll definitely
want to use some form of film.  Contrast is an important element in dealing
with something like the Van Dyke process, and using paper probably is not going
to give you the contrast you'll need (plus, you need to think in terms of
pretty long exposure times under your light unit).

I use Arista Premium Halftone film and shoot it at around EI 6.  Development is
normally with Dektol diluted 1+10.  The primary advantage of halftone film over
something like TMX is one of price, as there is a vbast difference between the
two.

I will probably upload my Pinhole Day picture tonight, which was taken with
Arista and printed with the Van Dyke process.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] developing little pieces of 35mm film

2002-05-20 Thread George L Smyth
--- Shannon Stoney shannonsto...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I have been thinking about making some tiny cameras with Altoids boxes and
 35mm plastic film canisters.  But, how do you develop the small piece of
 film you have exposed with such a camera?  It would seem awkward to try to
 thread it onto a regular reel.  Tiny tubes, as in BTZS tubes?  Trays?

When I shoot with film in my film cannister pinhole camera, I develop, stop,
and fix within the container itself.  Why now do this in the Altoids can?

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] speed of paper versus film

2002-05-09 Thread George L Smyth
--- lwilkin...@schilli.com wrote:
 I'm struggling to understand the relationship between film and photographic
 paper.
 
 Specifically, calculating exposures, etc.
 
 Where film may be considered ASA 100, paper may be considered P100.
 
 Obviously, it's not the same 100...but what's the relationship?

There is no relationship, the two mean entirely two different things.

FWIW, you may wish to use EI 6 as a starting point in your testing, as most
papers hover in that range.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] United States airline screening and film

2002-05-09 Thread George L Smyth
--- Jeff Dilcher r...@hiddenworld.net wrote:
 
 
 Can anyone with a better knowledge of physics than I, comment on whether
 BW film would be more or less susceptible to xray devices?

Actually, color film and black and white film are pretty much the same.  The
only real difference is that color film has dyes that work with the grain
clusters to produce the three colors.

There should be no appreciable difference.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Pinhole Day Questions

2002-04-30 Thread George L Smyth
--- Patrick Barrett barrettpatr...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Here is the root of the question: All the negatives were black! I assume 
 that we drastically over-exposed the paper. I do not think that it was 
 fogged, but I suppose it is possible. The cameras were not light-leaky.

Is there an image?  If so, then chances are that this was the case of massive
over-exposure.  However, I would go back and test the camera for a light leak,
as this is more probable.  Please film in the camera and set it outside for an
hour.  If you get anything after developing the film then you've got a light
leak.

One problem that I ran across was fogging due to the sun coming directly in
through the pinhole.  My exposure time on Sunday was about 15 minutes, and this
gave the sun an opportunity at one point to move into a position where is came
directly into the hole.  This only happened on one shot and the result was more
fog than an actual turning of the negative to black, but it's worth a
consideration.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Film Storage

2002-04-19 Thread George L Smyth
Yes, freezing it is definitely best.  Last year I just finished some Konica
Infrared that had been in the freezer since 1992 and it worked like fresh film
(I'm sure that others have older stories).

Cheers -

george



--- Steve Bell veracity...@earthlink.net wrote:

HR
HTMLHEAD
META http-equiv=Content-Type content=text/html; charset=windows-1251
META content=MSHTML 6.00.2715.400 name=GENERATOR/HEAD
BODY
P
DIV/DIV
DIV
DIVHey,/DIV
DIVnbsp;/DIV
DIVI've a question hopefully some of you will be able to answer. Recently
i've realized that buying film in bulk is a whole lot cheaper than buying
individual rolls(i know, this is more a 35mm question, than pinhole, but it is
pertanent). i'm sure you've all realized this a long time ago, but i'm young, i
have an excuse. so i was wondering what the best way to store film is. should i
freeze it? /DIV

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] fixing in tubes and trays

2002-04-15 Thread George L Smyth
--- shannon stoney ssto...@pdq.net wrote:
 Does it have to be absolutely, plumb thick dark when you finish 
 fixing in the tray after a short fix in the tubes?  I don't have a 
 completely dark ventilated place yet.

If you are using BTZS tubes, you can do everything (except loading the tubes)
with the lights on.  After opening the caps and dumping the developer, the
tubes go into the stop, then the fix - I do this with the lights on.  No
fogging.

If you are worried about clearing the last vestiges of the antihalation layer,
as I mentioned before, this can be done with water.  Yes, you can go through
the additional step of using fixer in a tray, but why not simply use the wash
water?

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] BTZS tubes; fixing

2002-04-15 Thread George L Smyth
--- Clay Harmon wchar...@wt.net wrote:
 One of the big reasons to fix in a tray using the BTZS tubes is to get the
 fixer to the back of the film so it will remove the pink anti-halation
 backing during fixing. The only knock on the tubes is that you do tend to
 have problems with the antihalation dye remaining on the back of the
 negative. Hypo clear will help get rid of it.

I've not had this problem.  After fixing, I simply allow the negatives to sit
in water for about 15 minutes, then I wash them.  The antihalation backing is
completely removed.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Paper Negative Developers?

2002-04-11 Thread George L Smyth
--- Beau Schwarz ejschwar...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Hi! Based on a View Camera article, I've thought about trying D76 as the 
 developer for paper negatives. However, in looking at a Kodak Dataguide, 
 Dektol will develope 120 sheets of paper while D76 will develope approx. 16 
 8x10 sheets of film. So the question is how many sheets of paper will a 
 gallon of D76 develope? How do you tell when the developer is near 
 exhaustion?  Or would it be best to use it as a one shot developer? 

You should always use developer for your negative as one-shot (unless it is
specifically designed for replenishment).  Whereas you can always make another
print, if you screw up your negative with inadequate chemistry, you're pretty
much out of luck.

 Is there some way of 'taming' dektol, so it gives a less contrasty neg?

Of course, just increase the dilution. I use a dilute version of Dektol (1+10
to 1+20, depending upon the scene) when processing halftone film.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Source for 8x10 film holders

2002-04-09 Thread George L Smyth
I got all of mine on eBay.  

Cheers -

george



--- Bill Erickson erick...@hickorytech.net wrote:
 I've seen a number of wooden ones on Ebay.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Greg Newberry grnewbe...@qwest.net
 To: Pinhole-Discussion pinhole-discussion@p at ???
 Sent: Monday, April 08, 2002 8:10 PM
 Subject: [pinhole-discussion] Source for 8x10 film holders
 
 
  Hi, I want to buy a few used (but good) 8x10 film holders for my pinhole
  photos. Is there a good source you know of?
  
  
  Thanks
  Greg

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Test site

2002-03-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- jamesromeo jamesro...@mac.com wrote:
 on 3/11/02 9:16 PM, Andy Schmitt at aschm...@warwick.net wrote:
 Where did you get the 25mb storage ? Have I missed something?
 James

When @Home separated from Comcast (all sites were dumped without offering the
ability to at least include a pointer to the new location), Comcast needed to
offer webspace with their Internet access.  I am still trying to find someone
from their service department who can tell me where my space is located and how
I can use FTP to move my files.

Cheers -

george
(whose site was dumped, and is now located at htpp://GLSmyth.com)

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Yahoo !

2002-03-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- pinfreak pinfr...@tampabay.rr.com wrote:
 Thanks to everone's kind words on the zero multiformat cameraI placed my
 order tonight !
 Now... hummm any favorites on what black and white film to use and why ?

I use TMX because it is what I normally use with my lens camera and I am
familiar with it.  It's best to start with a film with which you have some
familiarity, then try other things.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] cameras from the grocery

2002-03-12 Thread George L Smyth
--- jack durrett jd...@cox.net wrote:
 Lately, I've been looking for good camera ideas when I'm at the grocery.  If
 you are a coffee drinker and into homemade cameras check out the Maxwell
 House Filter Pack coffee box.  Wide mouth for easy film swapping, lid is
 hinged blue plastic that probably needs just a few sprays of matte black.

Actually, this will not work, as the paint will simply peel off.

I use coffee cans as cameras and found an easy way to get around this is to use
the plastic that comes from the wrapper of photographic paper.  Just cut a
circle of it, place it over the top, then put the top on.  Works like a champ.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] T-Max processing

2002-03-09 Thread George L Smyth
--- Tim Midkiff ku...@vci.net wrote:
 Hi all,
 
I'm processing 8 strips, individually, of T-max 100 on a reel that 
 I have exposed. The question I have is, should I alter the development 
 time because is a shorter strip instead of a full roll of 120? 

You would develop the same with one frame as a full roll.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Re: mini-pin + photo flo sub

2002-03-08 Thread George L Smyth
--- Christian Harkness chris.harkn...@eudoramail.com wrote:
 Well, I once used a liguid detergent for dishwashers instead of Photo-Flo 
 it throughly ruined my negatives, much worse then if I had not used
 Photo-Flo. so

This is why I suggested away from it in my initial message.  PhotoFlo is one of
those products that has been used forever and has worked well for countless
photographers.  When using something from the cabinet, you have to worry about
immediate problems, as well as those that may be detrimental to the archival
properties of your film.

I can't imagine using something that has not been extensively tested on my
negatives, since if they go, they're gone (prints can always be reprinted).

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Photo-flo

2002-03-06 Thread George L Smyth
I have read of options to Photo-Flo, but never tried them because although they
may work, they may also be detrimental to the film on down the line.  I'd
rather not take that chance.

When I developed in my bathroom, I steamed it by turning on the shower before
hanging my film.  Once the steam had settled things, I hung the film and closed
the door.  I had been having problems with dust and this took care of the
situation.  I've got a darkroom now and do not have those problems.

Cheers -

george



--- Tim Midkiff ku...@vci.net wrote:
 Hi all,
 
 This may be a bit off topic but, is there a readily available 
 subsitute for kodak photo-flo? I happen to be at home today and need to 
 develop some images, both pinhole and otherwise, and i'm being plagued 
 with spots and such. please send and ideas!!! 
 
 Also what do you folks with darkrooms at home do about drying film? 
 Has anyone build a small film drying cabinet? Or seen plans or worthy 
 ideas? since I do both 120 and 35roll at home some, I would like 
 something small and cheap(!) would it be feasible to construct 
 something to dry a few rolls (2-4) of 120? maybe use muffin fans? maybe 
 this is just wishful thinking and not practical. could 35mm film be 
 held by both ends up in a U shape to conserve space? there I go 
 dreaming again.
 
   Most importantly, the photo-flo.
 
 thanks, tim
 
 Timothy S. Midkiff
 
 Photographers get a Click out of life!
 
 ku...@vci.net
 psycho_...@excite.com 

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] paper negatives?

2002-03-05 Thread George L Smyth
--- Matti Koskinen mjkos...@koti.soon.fi wrote:
 Hi all
 
 [clip] Another issue is 
 that I have never developed sheet films and using photographic paper is 
 easy to develop in the darkroom because you can have safelight.

You can develop orthochromatic film in your darkroom with your safelight on. 
This makes it so that you have all of the advantages of easy development and
easy contact printing.

Cheers -

george


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Re: [pinhole-discussion] umm (ortho-litho development)

2002-03-05 Thread George L Smyth
Gord -

It also probably has a fair amount to do with the developer.  Many developers
of this type will result in a lessened film speed.  It's just the cost of doing
business.

Cheers -

george



--- Gordon J. Holtslander hol...@duke.usask.ca wrote:
 
 Hi:
 
 It seems that rating the film at 1 ASA compensates for reciprocity.  I'm
 not sure of the F-stop of the 12x18- its not my camera.   We usually get a
 good estimate of the pinhole diamter using a loup and a fine ruler
 graduated in .5 mm  From that we calculate the f-stop based on the focal
 length.  We use a light-meter to get an exposure base.
 
 It gets good negatives from exposures in the range of 5 min to an hour.
 Never had an exposure of less than 5 minutes with this film and LC-1
 
 Gord
 
 On Mon, 4 Mar 2002, John Yeo wrote:
 
 
   I use LC-1 and ortho film too.  Its very good.  However it is slow.  An
  ASA of 1.  I've used a
   12 X 18 camera.  It ended up having an f stop in the range 0f 300.  This
  translates to an
   exposure of an hour on a bright sunny day for one picture.
 
  How does that work? For a sunny day exposure with ASA 1, you would have 1
  sec @ f/16.  f/360 is 9 stops away from f/16, so your exposure should be
  about 8.5 min...
 
  Or is it because of reciprocity failure that you are getting exposures of
 an
  hour?
 
  John
 
 
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 hol...@duke.usask.ca  112 Science Place
 http://duke.usask.ca/~holtsg  University of Saskatchewan
 Tel (306) 966-4433Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
 Fax (306) 966-4461Canada  S7N 5E2
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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Favorite Cameras?

2002-03-04 Thread George L Smyth
--- Steve Bell veracity...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Hey Everyone,
 
 I haven't yet begun to construct my first pinhole camera. I'm so busy with
 school work and everything. I have a question for you all. What is your
 favorite type of pinhole camera? 

A coffee can.  It fits a sheet of 4X5 perfectly and is pretty much
indestructable.  As the plastic tops that come with coffee cans are not opaque,
simply cut a round piece of the plastic that your photographic paper comes in
and spread it over the top, snaping the plastic lid over it.  It works very
well.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] paper instead of film?

2002-03-03 Thread George L Smyth
--- jack durrett jd...@cox.net wrote:
 Hi all.  I'm a newbie to the list and to pinhole but I've been eagerly
 reading the posts and picking up a few pointers.  However, I have a basic
 question.  I've made some pinhole cameras and taken some film pictures with
 each.  Now I'm wanting to use some photo paper instead.  I bought some Ilford
 5x7 Multigrade IV RC Deluxe MGD.44M Pearl paper.  Apparently the back of the
 paper is too opaque to make contact prints.  What is the best paper for this?
  Is paper comparable quality-wise (for the image) or should I stick to film? 
 Sorry for so simple a question but even the best photog store here hasn't
 been much help.  (You should have seen the quizzical looks when I mentioned
 pinhole.)  I figured I'd try paper after looking at an Oatmeal Box pinhole
 site.  http://www.nh.ultranet.com/~stewoody/  They used paper and the
 resulting contact prints looked good.  The pics look to be from the '70s
 though.  Maybe they made photo paper more transparent then. ;^)

Jack -

You can expose through the paper, it just takes considerably longer.  There are
ways of stripping the backing of the paper, but if you really don't want to use
film (certainly, the easiest negative type with which to work) I would suggest
looking at half-tone film.  This is relatively cheap and can be developed with
dilute Dektol (I use it in the 1+10 to 1+20 dilution, depending upon the
scene).

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] pinhole or not/project advice

2002-02-21 Thread George L Smyth
--- Ø seg...@earthlink.net wrote:
 hello list,
 ive been experimenting with pinhole photography for awhile,
 and it dawned on me... what is a pinhole?
 i mean, what size constitutes a pinhole? smaller than f/64? f/128?
 and what about lens-less photography?

In my mind, pinhole photography is lensless photography (in a manner of
speaking, zone plate photography is not lensless, as the zone plate does focus
(somewhat) the light), so it isn't a matter of specifying aperture.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 Field Leaks

2002-02-21 Thread George L Smyth
--- Howard Wells sandw...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Agree that Tupperware leaks. The field process I outlined before my
 coffee (and is stolen from Marc Hauser) involves moist paper towels and
 sponge. No sloshing liquids, which can be carried in a water bottle. It
 does involve handling wet towels and sponge so that probably leaves the
 Sodium S. solution out unless you uses gloves. 

Howard -

Although sodium sulfite works nicely to clear the negative, you can get away
with just leaving the negative in water until you get back to home base.  I
like the idea of using wet towels instead of carrying a bucket of liquid. 
However, as I've shot just about all of my Type-55, I will be eBaying my 545
holder very soon.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] Type 55 holding tank

2002-02-21 Thread George L Smyth
I never did find anything that worked well and kept the liquid within its
container.  Even Tupperware containers will leak with enough agitation.  The
process got messy to the point where using Type 55 in the field no longer made
sense to me.

Cheers -

george


--- Colin Talcroft ctalcr...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Yes, this has been on my mind, too. I was thinking
 maybe a Tupperware container of the right size?
 
 
  My question to those of you who use Type 55 in the
  field is this, How do you 
  keep the negative moist until you get home
 
  Thanks 
  dalf...@aol.com

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] umm (ortho-litho development)

2002-02-21 Thread George L Smyth
--- R Duarte ra...@rahji.com wrote:
 ummm, sorry.. i also wanted to ask if anyone has sort of a summary of
 developing techniques for that ortho-litho stuff (eg which chemicals in
 which dilutions).  i wish there was an easier way to search the archives.
 :-/

I have used half-tone film a fair amount, but can't give you anything concrete.
 I shoot it at about EI 2-5 and develop with Dektol diluted 1:10 through 1:20. 
The variations are due to the differences in the scene.

I might suggest that you use this information as a starting point and do
testing to see what works best for you.

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New website

2002-02-19 Thread George L Smyth
--- Richard M. Koolish kool...@bbn.com wrote:
  Leslie,
  
  My apologies. I assumed when the cursor didn't change to a pointing hand
  that a larger image was not available.
  
  Your images are even better when enlarged.
  
  Bob Russman
 
 
 
 I can't seem to get the enlargements to work with Netscape.
 Works fine with Internet Explorer.

I didn't realize that clicking on the picture brought up a larger version of
the image.  I would recommend that that is a major usability problem.  
Why are you using Javascript to do this?  Don't get me wrong, I love Javascript
(actually, I am teaching a class in it tonight), but in this particular case it
is working as a real negative and is not really giving you any benefits.  I
would very highly recommend using standard HTML for links to the larger images.
 I would also suggest not using popup windows, or if you must, to at least use
a window name for all images so that each picture doesn't have to be
individually closed.  Also, as Richard noted, the links will not work with old
versions of Netscape, so by not using standard HTML you lock those people out.


Finally, the problem with frames is that you can't point anyone to a particular
area of your website.  For instance, instead of sending a link like
http://www.lesliedavisp at ???/railways.htm to send someone to your Railways
pictures, you have to send them to the main site, then tell them to search for
the proper picture to select, hoping that the rollover image has loaded (two of
them took a long time to load, so at first I had no clue as to what those areas
represented).

Cheers -

george

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Re: [pinhole-discussion] New website

2002-02-19 Thread George L Smyth
--- lad...@aol.com wrote:
 I invite all members to take a look at my new pinhole website a provide me 
 with your opinions.
 
  It can be found at www.lesliedavisp at ???

I would recommend offering larger images.  The thumbnails look interesting, but
I can't really see enough with such small pictures.

Cheers -

george

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