The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 49 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Dealer Prices
  Dealers Price Going Up
  Re: Knock Sensor - 1995 325is
  Found Independant Mechanic In Dallas
  Re: Dealers Price Going Up
  Re: Dealers Price Going Up
  Oil Change Frequency
  Re: Oil Change Frequency
  Re: Dealers Price Going Up
  Fw: Dealers Price Going Up
  Re: NYC Car Stuff
  Re: NYC Car Stuff
  Re: NYC Car Stuff
  Re: NYC Car Stuff
  Dealing with worn out struts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 06:12:46 +0700
From: "Sean Cordone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dealer Prices
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

There are some good dealers.

Knauz BMW here in the Chicago area does oil changes (non-synthetic), with "chassis 
lube", check and top off of all fluids, and tire pressure check, for $25.95 with 
coupon. And they send out fliers periodically with coupons for an 18% across the board 
discount on parts and service for cars with over 75kmiles on the clock. This makes 
their pricing pretty competitive.

Of course, I still change my own oil (yes, at the SI intervals, and yes, I've gotten 
engines over the 300 kmile mark), but for reasons unrelated to dealer gouging.  --SC
-- 
_____________________________________________________________
Web-based SMS services available at http://www.operamail.com.
>From your mailbox to local or overseas cell phones.

Powered by Outblaze

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 15:46:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Dealers Price Going Up
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Lee/Mark:

One of my co-workers has had a bit of a run of bad
luck with his 219k mile Chrysler Sebring.  New engine,
slipping tranny, failed starter, failed ECU, etc.,
etc., the list goes on.

However, when you look at it closely you see:
1. Did not perform timing belt service - belt broke!
2. Did not scan junkyards for used ECU - paid $600.
3. Did not install starter on his own - $350.
4. Did not have the tranny rebuilt when the
engine+tranny was out - we'll see.

I have already warned him about fuel pump, hoses, fuel
lines, brake fluid, brakes, bushings, tires,
alignment, etc., etc.  We'll see what happens with
those.

Neil Deshpande

***

I'm really not trying to be a jerk here, and I'm not
picking on anybody in particular.  As much as
anything, this is a rant aimed at some co-workers who
always bitch about what it costs to maintain a car but
seem incapable of doing some learning on their own...
:-)

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:00:53 -0500 (EST)
From: henry butt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Knock Sensor - 1995 325is
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Thanks Brett ! Yeah, the "Check Engine" light is on
but the car runs fine except a bit of pinging under
very hard acceleration. I'll send it in to have a code
check.

Cheers !

Henry 
------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2004 22:28:33 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 Knock Sensor Location


The knock sensor should set a fault, and a check
engine light, if it 
needs
to be replaced.

While it's possible that it can be bad without setting
a fault, it's
unlikely.

I'd be looking at fuel quality, air leaks, carbon
build up, etc, first.

Besides, the knock sensors are a real pain in the arse
to change on the
M50/M52 engines.  Come to think of it, they're nasty
on all BMW 
engines.

Brett Anderson
KMS



______________________________________________________________________ 
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 18:10:39 -0600
From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Found Independant Mechanic In Dallas
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I just called Autoscope, and told them, as as expensive as they were, I
might as well take it back to the dealer the guy there said 400 dollars for
brakes. However, I did find an independent shop, and it's in Dallas on
Denton Dr, and it's called Priore. I plan to try them. I refuse to go to
independent shops that cost as much as the dealer.

  Celisa
'99 328is


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:26:12 -0800
From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dealers Price Going Up
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Michael,

Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't readily break
down, but how do you measure contaminants in the oil? As I don't know of a
way to do this I change my oil every 5K miles. Of course, I'd rather not do
that if I was secure with knowledge that my oils really was OK. I do know
that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon (warranty requirement by
GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine problem. Please educate
me on how to properly test my oil.

John Kjos
'99 540i/6: Dinan S
'01 525iTa: Stock
Portland, OR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [UUC] Dealers Price Going Up


> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
> -> -----Original Message-----
>  On Behalf Of Dennis Wynne
> -> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 1:17 PM
> -> I PAID for extra oil changes on my 330i, I could not stand
> -> the thought of leaving the oil and filter in there until the
> -> service monitor said it was time for a free change.
>
> Not picking on Dennis, but I have yet to understand this so called
> 'ignorance' of all the data that proves synthetics last much longer than
> even the BMW service monitor states for oil changes.  I just don't get
> it.  Has anyone out there EVER had a proven oil failure or damage to a
> motor from going 10-15k miles on a oil change?  I have done extensive
> oil testing on heavy equipment and my own cars.  15k on a synthetic is
> nothing with proper filtering.   People who change oil at 3000 miles
> should bear the burden of the extra costs of dealing with that much
> contaminated oil.  Do yourself and your neighbors of this world a favor,
> test the oil in your car and change it when it needs changing, not 10k
> miles before hand.
>
> Mike
>
> In the construction biz, landfills and hazardous clean ups.  If you have
> seen what I have, you would reconsider or maybe you will be lucky enough
> to have it in your backyard one day.
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 17:32:08 -0800
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dealers Price Going Up
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 04:26 PM 2/27/04, John Kjos talked about:
>Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't readily break
>down, but how do you measure contaminants in the oil?

Get the oil tested.

>I do know
>that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon (warranty requirement by
>GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine problem.

That doesn't really prove anything, other than you probably changed the oil 
too often.

But, hey, it's your money :-)

>Please educate
>me on how to properly test my oil.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

I use them for testing the oil in both cars.

Jim Bassett
1998 M3/4 - Red Line 10W40 tested OK after 9500 miles (approx. SI light 
interval)
1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - Mobil 1 15W50 tested OK after 5500 miles


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:10:21 -0800
From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Oil Change Frequency
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Jim,

If the warranty REQUIRES that you change the oil every 3K miles (see below),
then how could you say the oil was changed too often when it was changed
every 3K miles? I guess if you don't care if you void the warranty then you
have a point. But most of us wouldn't intentionally void our new car
warranty.

Getting back to BMWs, I really wonder how often is too often. My wife only
changes her oil in the 525iTa when the lights tell her to do so (about 15K
mi. intervals). I've got to admit that she has never had any engine problems
(her 3rd I6 BMW over 14 years).

John Kjos
'99 540i/6: Dinan S
'01 525iTa: Stock
Portland, OR

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [UUC] Dealers Price Going Up


> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> At 04:26 PM 2/27/04, John Kjos talked about:
> >Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't readily
break
> >down, but how do you measure contaminants in the oil?
>
> Get the oil tested.
>
> >I do know
> >that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon (warranty requirement
by
> >GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine problem.
>
> That doesn't really prove anything, other than you probably changed the
oil
> too often.
>
> But, hey, it's your money :-)
>
> >Please educate
> >me on how to properly test my oil.
>
> http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
>
> I use them for testing the oil in both cars.
>
> Jim Bassett
> 1998 M3/4 - Red Line 10W40 tested OK after 9500 miles (approx. SI light
> interval)
> 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - Mobil 1 15W50 tested OK after 5500 miles
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:31:27 -0800
From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Oil Change Frequency
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 07:10 PM 2/27/04, John Kjos talked about:
>If the warranty REQUIRES that you change the oil every 3K miles (see below),

Sorry, I missed the warranty requirement part.

That's just nuts, IMO.

>then how could you say the oil was changed too often when it was changed
>every 3K miles?

I still stand by what I said (typed), warranty requirement or not. :-)

Jim Bassett


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:41:11 -0500
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Dealers Price Going Up
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any good testing lab will be able to give you a breakdown on your oil.
Oil testing kits are usually found for around $20 which include a
container and envelope to mail  the sample to the lab.  

Mike

-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Kjos
-> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 7:26 PM
-> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Subject: Re: [UUC] Dealers Price Going Up
-> 
-> 
-> Search the 
-> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> 
-> 
-> Michael,
-> 
-> Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't 
-> readily break down, but how do you measure contaminants in 
-> the oil? As I don't know of a way to do this I change my oil 
-> every 5K miles. Of course, I'd rather not do that if I was 
-> secure with knowledge that my oils really was OK. I do know 
-> that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon 
-> (warranty requirement by
-> GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine 
-> problem. Please educate me on how to properly test my oil.
-> 
-> John Kjos
-> '99 540i/6: Dinan S
-> '01 525iTa: Stock
-> Portland, OR
-> 
-> ----- Original Message ----- 
-> From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 10:46 AM
-> Subject: Re: [UUC] Dealers Price Going Up
-> 
-> 
-> > Search the 
-> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> >
-> > -> -----Original Message-----
-> >  On Behalf Of Dennis Wynne
-> > -> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 1:17 PM
-> > -> I PAID for extra oil changes on my 330i, I could not stand the 
-> > -> thought of leaving the oil and filter in there until 
-> the service 
-> > -> monitor said it was time for a free change.
-> >
-> > Not picking on Dennis, but I have yet to understand this so called 
-> > 'ignorance' of all the data that proves synthetics last 
-> much longer 
-> > than even the BMW service monitor states for oil changes.  I just 
-> > don't get it.  Has anyone out there EVER had a proven oil 
-> failure or 
-> > damage to a motor from going 10-15k miles on a oil change?  I have 
-> > done extensive oil testing on heavy equipment and my own 
-> cars.  15k on a synthetic is
-> > nothing with proper filtering.   People who change oil at 
-> 3000 miles
-> > should bear the burden of the extra costs of dealing with 
-> that much 
-> > contaminated oil.  Do yourself and your neighbors of this world a 
-> > favor, test the oil in your car and change it when it 
-> needs changing, 
-> > not 10k miles before hand.
-> >
-> > Mike
-> >
-> > In the construction biz, landfills and hazardous clean 
-> ups.  If you 
-> > have seen what I have, you would reconsider or maybe you 
-> will be lucky 
-> > enough to have it in your backyard one day.
-> >
-> > 
-> _____________________________________________________________
-> _________
-> > ____
-> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder 
-> of the BMW CCA.
-> >
-> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of 
-> the Ultimate 
-> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . 
-> > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
-> >
-> 
-> 
-> _____________________________________________________________
-> _____________
-> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of 
-> the BMW CCA.
-> 
-> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the 
-> Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 
-> . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
-> 


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 19:38:16 -0600
From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fw: Dealers Price Going Up
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Dennis,

   I know exactly what you are saying. I have gone to the dealer for years,
especially since I've been in TX. Now in Virginia, I had one great
independent dealer. I can't believe it has take me so long to find one, I'm
thankful now, after paying a hell of a price. I'm just sick of it. I know
things are expensive, and you know that when you purchase the BMW. I always
even get mine precertified to avoid that outlandish price. I guess you live
and you learn. Thanks for your response.

  Celisa
'99 328is


------------------------------

Date: 28 Feb 2004 02:21:16 -0000
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Spending a long weekend with the family unit in Manhattan. Any car things I 
> shouldn't miss? I know, it's NYC, but still... 

Yeah, don't miss finding a place to park and not looking at your car again until 
you're ready to leave. Driving in NYC is like fasting in Italy; 
defeats the purpose of being there.  As someone born and raised in New York City, I 
will tell you that you will not be surprised that some 
people live their entire life without ever owning a car. I got my driver's license at 
21... just as I was leaving NYC for the west coast. 

That said, if you want some excitement, I had a blast driving a friend's 540i from 
Yankees Stadium to the East village at 1am through the 
middle of Manhattan. Clocking how quickly you can make it downtown while driving like 
a crazy California lane-hopper through a sea of taxis is 
a singular experience. However, if you get arrested don't blame it on me. ;-)

-peter*g



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:02:04 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I hate NYC taxi drivers.  But I do enjoy playing the "blind out of
state driver in a long pickup truck who doesn't see your yellow POS
and will happily take your menacing drift-over and counter with an
even more aggressive drift-over, with my bumper at your mirror
height" game. (breathe!)

- Rob


---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>That said, if you want some excitement, I had a blast driving a
>friend's 540i from Yankees Stadium to the East village at 1am through
>the 
>middle of Manhattan. Clocking how quickly you can make it downtown
>while driving like a crazy California lane-hopper through a sea of
>taxis is 
>a singular experience. 
>-peter*g



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:15:57 -0500
From: UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I did the "I'm the psychotic who will just crash into you" approach at La 
Guardia one time.

Taxi pulled up close to my back bumper and blew his horn. I flipped him the 
bird, he "tapped" my rear bumper with his.

I threw it in reverse (850i by the way) and pushed his goofy ass backwards 
about ten feet.

For some reason he decided to go around me and leave the airport. Didn't 
seem to want his fare anymore. :)

The transit cop that saw all of this almost fell over with laughter during 
the whole affair.

(And now I live down here in Atlanta and deal with people who are just as 
dangerous and discourteous, but here it's 99% unintentional, because they 
are some of the most inattentive and stupid drivers I've ever seen...)

/Mike

At 10:02 PM 2/27/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>I hate NYC taxi drivers.  But I do enjoy playing the "blind out of state 
>driver in a long pickup truck who doesn't see your yellow POS and will 
>happily take your menacing drift-over and counter with an even more 
>aggressive drift-over, with my bumper at your mirror height" game. (breathe!)
>
>- Rob

Sesquipedalian -- a really cool word. It means long-winded, polysyllabic, 
or verbose. See the word describes itself...isn't that neat?



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 22:29:37 -0500
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: NYC Car Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Ah....... NYC taxi driver stories-it could go on forever. I will not even
relate the one where on our honeymoon our African American cab driver
stopped on 125th st on the way to the dock where the Bermuda cruise boat was
(Yo' right in the middle of Harlem) and got in an argument with a Hispanic
in a big convertible full of big Hispanic dudes who were double parked and
we both (wife and I) thought we were DEAD.

The best story is my Dad who worked at 666 Park ave for God awful number of
years. He and a co-worker headed cross town to Penn Station to catch a train
some where. They are about a block from the train station, grid locked in
cross town traffic with the cab driver stopped part way in the cross walk.
Guy in a suit and tie, with a brief case crosses in front of them, has to
move out of the cross walk and gives the cabbie the finger. The cabbie grabs
a tire iron from under the seat and takes off after the guy in the suit,
beating him over the head with the tire iron as he holds his brief case over
his head and runs away.

My dad looks at his co-worker, they nod their heads and get out of the cab
and walk the rest of the way to the train station, stiffing the cabbie of
his fare.

I Love New York

Bill Matthews
Hockessin DE


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rob Levinson
> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 10:02 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] NYC Car Stuff
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> I hate NYC taxi drivers.  But I do enjoy playing the "blind out of
> state driver in a long pickup truck who doesn't see your yellow POS
> and will happily take your menacing drift-over and counter with an
> even more aggressive drift-over, with my bumper at your mirror
> height" game. (breathe!)
>
> - Rob
>
>
> ---- Original Message ----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >That said, if you want some excitement, I had a blast driving a
> >friend's 540i from Yankees Stadium to the East village at 1am through
> >the
> >middle of Manhattan. Clocking how quickly you can make it downtown
> >while driving like a crazy California lane-hopper through a sea of
> >taxis is
> >a singular experience.
> >-peter*g
>
>
>
>



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 00:29:01 -0500
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED];, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Dealing with worn out struts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Joe Wrote>>I do most of my own work too, but am now looking for a decent 
independent to
do my front struts/control arms. Anyone know of a good shop around Worcester
MA, or want to help me tackle this one on my own? Struts are new for me, and
between the springs and the retaining collar, I am not sure I am game for it
in my apartment parking lot...
 >>

Hey Guy,

I think it might be a bold move in an apartment lot, but,  you can change 
the front struts yourself in about 5-6 hrs. Less if you get a shop to 
remove and replace the springs and cartridges, and just jack the car and 
remove the wheels, and take out strut assemblies yourself.

Jack the car, block the front end up. Remove the front wheels.

Take off the brake calipers, I jack the pads in with a big screwdrive so 
they slide off therotors easily. I take the big bolts in the caliper 
carriers off, and leave them on the slider pins together with the 
calipers,  undo the bottom strut bolts, ( some bimmers might have lower 
ball joints to separate I've only changed 1602,2002 325i and 735i bimmer 
struts)) , remove the ABS sensor and pad sensors, and remove the top three 
strut mount nuts in the engine compartment.. The struts then will fall out.


It takes about 20 minutes a side to drop a front strut.  You'll be AMAZED 
at how fast you can rip a strut out of a car.  Take it to a shop with air 
tools and a strut compressor. Pay them for the hour it will take them to 
remove your old cartridges and put the new ones in.

Or
Buy a $35 KD strut compressor, If you must, I did , thought Id use it once, 
back in 1979...done Hondas, VW, bimmers, ..so it was a well spent $35.00

If you need to buy a compressor and do it ourself, compress the springs, 
remove the strut top nut..I use an impact wrench, you can do it with 
regular tools..I used to.

Undo the top strut cartridge retainer cap,  I use a couple of big pipe 
wrenches for this, sometimes some heat, or if all else fails an abrasive 
cutoff wheel  or an impact wrench (see the "take the strut Assy. to a shop 
that does suspensions".. I'm sure a Midas would be able to do it).

Remove top nut take out the old strut cartridge, I like Bilsteins, you will 
hear a lot of opinions, if you use them, they come with new caps, I put the 
whole mess together with 'Never seize' in case I ever need to do the job 
again (150k miles out of a set of Bilsteins, just replaced under warranty, 
came apart great!)

Put it back together, use new bump stops if you need to, Bilsteins  have 
internal bump stops so you don't need em, then put the retainer cap on, 
pick up the compressed spring assy., put it on the strut, make sure the 
coil spring ends line up with the recesses in the strut spring perch and 
the top bearing support , put the nut on the end of the strut (I tighten it 
with an air wrench) and release the compressor evenly.

I really bet $50-60 bucks would get a shop to change out the 
cartridges,   and the spring compressor/stuck retainer cap/ top nut dance 
ain't for everyone.  You need to be comfortable with lots of force and 
stuck parts, and big springs.

Anyhow,

Take your rebuilt strut assemblies,  put the top bolts up thru the strut 
towers, put on the nuts, then put the bottom bolts in the struts, with blue 
loctite, torque to spec, throw on the brake calipers, and the sensor for 
brake pad and the ABS sensor, torque all those bolts, and put the wheel 
on  ( 45 minutes/side)and go hit some bumps..  I was running my 88 735i at 
90mph today over serious Maine frost heaves on the way to skiing, and 
LOVING my new set of Bilsteins!

I hope this gives you a good idea what it takes, If I were in an apartment 
parking lot, I'd probably just do the removal; and replacement of the strut 
assemblies, and leave the cartridge removal and replacement to a 
shop.  This will be cheap, and keep the parking lot time down to a minimum.

Struts really aren't very hard to change, and you will love the results for 
years!


Dave Leonard

done struts in BMW 2002, 1602, 325i, 735i, Honda Prelude, several VW 
Rabbits, a Dasher, and a Fiat 124 that I can recall...




------------------------------

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