The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 50 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Dealers Price Going Up Oil Testing Lab Re: Oil Change Frequency Re: Oil Change Frequency Re: Oil Change Frequency Re: Oil Change Frequency MoreTrack tire decisions Re: MoreTrack tire decisions Re: oil change interval Re: oil change interval Solid brake guide bushings? Re: Solid brake guide bushings? Dealer vs. Independent Anyone Have Comments on Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads? Re: Anyone Have Comments on Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 00:18:46 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dealers Price Going Up Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Send a sample to an oil testing lab. Problem is it costs about the same for a test as it does for a DIY oil change. You get great data back from the lab, though. Wear metals, additive state, coolant or water, etc. Gary Derian > > Michael, > > Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't readily break > down, but how do you measure contaminants in the oil? As I don't know of a > way to do this I change my oil every 5K miles. Of course, I'd rather not do > that if I was secure with knowledge that my oils really was OK. I do know > that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon (warranty requirement by > GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine problem. Please educate > me on how to properly test my oil. > > John Kjos > '99 540i/6: Dinan S > '01 525iTa: Stock > Portland, OR ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:20:29 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Oil Testing Lab Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, Michael & Group, Both you and Michael Lawrence pointed out the idea of sending an oil sample to a lab. Thanks. I'll do that the next time I change my oil (at 5K miles). If the oil is "like new" at that point I'll start stretching oil changes to 10K miles. I'll let everyone know what the lab reports. I've been changing oil (almost always synthetic) for 20 yrs. at a max of $5K miles. Assuming an average cost of $50/change and 15K miles a year, I would have saved $1,500 by doing this plus mucho wasted time. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S1 '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 9:18 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Dealers Price Going Up > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Send a sample to an oil testing lab. Problem is it costs about the same for > a test as it does for a DIY oil change. You get great data back from the > lab, though. Wear metals, additive state, coolant or water, etc. > > Gary Derian > > > > Michael, > > > > Most all of us (maybe ALL) realize that synthetic oils don't readily break > > down, but how do you measure contaminants in the oil? As I don't know of a > > way to do this I change my oil every 5K miles. Of course, I'd rather not > do > > that if I was secure with knowledge that my oils really was OK. I do know > > that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon (warranty requirement > by > > GM) and it lasted 150K miles without a single engine problem. Please > educate > > me on how to properly test my oil. > > > > John Kjos > > '99 540i/6: Dinan S > > '01 525iTa: Stock > > Portland, OR > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 00:26:56 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Change Frequency Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> But a Typhoon is pretty hard (very hot) on its oil, and was speced for conventional oil, not synthetic. Gary Derian > > Sorry, I missed the warranty requirement part. > > That's just nuts, IMO. > > >then how could you say the oil was changed too often when it was changed > >every 3K miles? > > I still stand by what I said (typed), warranty requirement or not. :-) > > Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:26:41 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Change Frequency Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary, When you are right you are right. But you are not right here. Typhoons and Cyclones all came from the factory (actual a shop in Alabama that did the mods to the standard SUVs and pickups) with Mobil 1. The owners manual specified that ONLY Mobil 1 could be used, not any other type of synthetic was acceptable let alone dyno stuff. You are right in that the engine area was always very hot. Man, could you feel the difference in performance on a dry (for traction) freezing temperature day. It was like an extra 20-30HP compared to Summer days in Phoenix. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Oil Change Frequency > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > But a Typhoon is pretty hard (very hot) on its oil, and was speced for > conventional oil, not synthetic. > Gary Derian > > > > Sorry, I missed the warranty requirement part. > > > > That's just nuts, IMO. > > > > >then how could you say the oil was changed too often when it was changed > > >every 3K miles? > > > > I still stand by what I said (typed), warranty requirement or not. :-) > > > > Jim Bassett > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 10:23:38 -0800 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Change Frequency Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John Kjos wrote: > I do know that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon > (warranty requirement by GM) and it lasted 150K miles without > a single engine problem. Then after Jim Bassett wrote that he probably changed the oil more than necessary Jon wrote: > If the warranty REQUIRES that you change the oil every 3K > miles (see below), then how could you say the oil was changed > too often when it was changed every 3K miles? I guess if you > don't care if you void the warranty then you have a point. But > most of us wouldn't intentionally void our new car warranty. How did you get a warranty (on a turbo 6cyl) that lasted 150K miles? Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:35:17 -0800 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Change Frequency Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin, The warranty ran out after 100K miles (never said I had a 150K mi. warranty), but I figured that GM knew just a little bit more about these cars than I did so I continued to change the oil per their warranty requirements until I sold it a few years ago. John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 10:23 AM Subject: Re: [UUC] Oil Change Frequency > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > John Kjos wrote: > > > I do know that I changed the oil every 3K miles on my Typhoon > > (warranty requirement by GM) and it lasted 150K miles without > > a single engine problem. > > Then after Jim Bassett wrote that he probably changed the oil more than > necessary Jon wrote: > > > If the warranty REQUIRES that you change the oil every 3K > > miles (see below), then how could you say the oil was changed > > too often when it was changed every 3K miles? I guess if you > > don't care if you void the warranty then you have a point. But > > most of us wouldn't intentionally void our new car warranty. > > How did you get a warranty (on a turbo 6cyl) that lasted 150K miles? > > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 08:17:32 -0600 From: "M Kittock" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: MoreTrack tire decisions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I used to run Toyos a few years ago, but have been just running on street tires the last few years. I plan on returning to R tires again this spring and was just planning on picking up a set of Toyos - until I called for pricing yesterday and found out they've gone up quite a bit. So, I'm wondering about the Kumho Victoracers in terms of their wear. I'm not so much worried about ultimate speed, then I wouldn't be looking at Toyos or Kumhos. Other than being a bit squirmy when brand new, I loved the Toyos. But, in my size it looks like the Victoracer is about 25% cheaper - so if the Victoracer only last 1/2 of the Toyo its not a good deal.... Any comparisons? I've seen an ad that Hankook now makes an R tire that apparently is a spec tire for the spec Miata class - anyone have feedback on those? I normally wouldn't go with something like that except my budget is quite tight :( Mark '96 328i, many mods... > [Original Message] > From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: 2/19/2004 1:20:04 AM > Subject: Re: [UUC] Track tire decisions again..... > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > At 01:03 PM 2/18/04, Mark Dadgar talked about: > >The Ecstas have a design problem (and there was a subsequent compound > >change that may or not alleviate this). > > Several compound changes, actually. Not that I would know if that fixed the > issues, as I got burned by 2 sets of these stinking piles of dog sh*t. > > Basically, I didn't like them all that much :-) > > > I filled out the tech question form on the Kumho web site and got a > > phone call back from an engineer in 20 minutes. I was FLOORED. > > Note to self: Have Mark perform all my Kumho correspondence in the future. :-) > > >Those tires, as well as the Toyos, want to be at 40 psi hot. Aim for that. > > I've found that the Toyos like 35-ish hot, in my application. Victoracers, > yes 40 psi hot. > > > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 10:41:13 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: MoreTrack tire decisions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:17 AM 2/28/04, M Kittock talked about: >I used to run Toyos a few years ago, but have been just running on street >tires the last few years. I plan on returning to R tires again this spring >and was just planning on picking up a set of Toyos - until I called for >pricing yesterday and found out they've gone up quite a bit. >So, I'm wondering about the Kumho Victoracers in terms of their wear. I'm >not so much worried about ultimate speed, then I wouldn't be looking at >Toyos or Kumhos. Other than being a bit squirmy when brand new, I loved >the Toyos. But, in my size it looks like the Victoracer is about 25% >cheaper - so if the Victoracer only last 1/2 of the Toyo its not a good >deal.... Any comparisons? I ran RA-1s on the M3 for ~3 years when I tracked it, and raced on them off and on with the 325is (235/45/17). Lately I've been racing on Victoracers (255/40/17). The Victoracers are cheaper, but are also faster and don't wear as long. I've run full-tread and shaved RA-1s, and only shaved Victoracers. Comparing shaved vs shaved, the Toyos last about twice as long, IME. The full-tread ones even longer. Even with the recent price hike on the Toyos, I still think they are a great tire for drivers schools/lapping days/etc. I still use them on the race car for instructing days as well as street/rain tires. No experience with the Hankook tires. My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 09:10:59 -0800 From: "Polands" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: oil change interval Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to this list, I've ordered the Blackstone Lab test sampler, so it will be interesting to see what is found. As a point of reference, my '88 535is now has about 238,000 miles on it, with no internal work other than valve adjustments. It's got the Conforti chip, and sees redline about once a day on my favorite limited access freeway ramps, but has never been "tracked". I've had the car since 72,000 miles, and have always changed oil per the service lights / rev counter. The car does not smoke or drip, and only uses one or two quarts between oil changes. Ok I guess that means it smokes, you just can't see it. I attempted to use all synthetic for about two oil changes a few years ago, and the head gasket started seeping. I had it retorqued and it still seemed to seep. I quit taking in my Mobile 1 for the oil changes, and now only top up with Mobile 1, so it's a small percentage of the lubricant. The head gasket seeping stopped with this practice. The only noticeable "issues" with the engine are: a. #1 cam lobe wear. PPI @72k showed tiny flaw in cam surface, which is now very noisy despite checking the oil bar w/ each valve adjust. b. Cold starts are effortless and smooth, but warm starts take some gas peddling, and sound like no fire in 1 cyl. for about 30 seconds. It will be interesting to see what the lab report says. Steve Poland Portland, OR ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 15:35:52 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: oil change interval Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Adding a quart of oil every few thousand miles replenishes the additives and greatly extends the life of the oil. In fact, if you consume a quart every thousand miles or so, you really don't ever have to change the oil. It is best to top off the oil with the same stuff used at the oil change. Different oils have different additive packages and mixing may lead to sub optimal performance. Not a critical issue, but if you have a choice, keep it the same. I use Shell Rotella T in my E30s and Mobil 1 in the E34s. Gary Derian > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Thanks to this list, I've ordered the Blackstone Lab test sampler, so it > will be interesting to see what is found. As a point of reference, my '88 > 535is now has about 238,000 miles on it, with no internal work other than > valve adjustments. It's got the Conforti chip, and sees redline about once > a day on my favorite limited access freeway ramps, but has never been > "tracked". I've had the car since 72,000 miles, and have always changed oil > per the service lights / rev counter. The car does not smoke or drip, and > only uses one or two quarts between oil changes. Ok I guess that means it > smokes, you just can't see it. I attempted to use all synthetic for about > two oil changes a few years ago, and the head gasket started seeping. I had > it retorqued and it still seemed to seep. I quit taking in my Mobile 1 for > the oil changes, and now only top up with Mobile 1, so it's a small > percentage of the lubricant. The head gasket seeping stopped with this > practice. The only noticeable "issues" with the engine are: > a. #1 cam lobe wear. PPI @72k showed tiny flaw in cam surface, which is > now very noisy despite checking the oil bar w/ each valve adjust. > b. Cold starts are effortless and smooth, but warm starts take some gas > peddling, and sound like no fire in 1 cyl. for about 30 seconds. > It will be interesting to see what the lab report says. > > Steve Poland > Portland, OR > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:40:35 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Solid brake guide bushings? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I picked up a set of solid brake guide bushings. It take it that it simply is installed from the outside of the caliper and locked in with the clip. Do I use caliper lube on these things? I have not noticed my rear brakes wearing unevenly so I am only replacing the front guides. Is replacing the rears worth the money? -- ...steven TechFest East http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast 2003 Mini Cooper S 1996 BMW 328ti ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 11:56:33 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Solid brake guide bushings? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You can also use high temp grease on these bushings and they did wonders for the brake pedal feel in my race car. And yes, I think they would be worth it. On 2/28/04 9:40 AM, "Steven Schlossman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I picked up a set of solid brake guide bushings. > It take it that it simply is installed from the outside of the > caliper and locked in with the clip. > > Do I use caliper lube on these things? > > I have not noticed my rear brakes wearing unevenly so I am only > replacing the front guides. Is replacing the rears worth the money? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 10:11:33 -0800 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Dealer vs. Independent Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Celisa wrote: > I refuse to go to independent shops that > cost as much as the dealer. Remember if you are paying less at the dealer the actual mechanic working on your car is probably a young guy without a lot of experience. I would rather pay an experienced skilled mechanic to work on my car, but that's just me... Dealers have a lot more overhead than independent shops including the salary of "Chip" the "Service Advisor" who smiles while you tell him a half hour long story about a random stalling problem and describe the noise that the it makes before cutting out. At an independent shop you will have an actual mechanic to talk to while at the dealer a random mechanic will work on your car and all he knows about your problem is "makes a noise" and "stalls sometimes" since that is all Chip wrote on the work order. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA #50039 P.S. Dealer overhead for coffee and pastries is also a lot more than most independent shops. I have a co-worker (with a Ford pickup) who grabs a free cup of coffee and a pastry every time he goes to the Marin Home Depot (that is next to the BMW Dealer)... ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 12:22:34 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "E30 Yahoo Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Anyone Have Comments on Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm thinking about trying a set of Axxis Ultimates for street and autocross. Can anyone with experience provide any insight? Braking performance Noise Dust Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i wants new brakes 1991 325iA needs new brakes ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 18:25:11 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Anyone Have Comments on Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:22 PM -0800 2/28/04, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: >I'm thinking about trying a set of Axxis Ultimates for street and >autocross. Can anyone with experience provide any insight? > >Braking performance >Noise >Dust I LOVE THEM! Stopping performance is excellent. Hardly dust. Quite due to the edges being beveled. Never used them on the track but I would think they would be excellent for autocross. They don't need to be warmed up before using. -- ...steven TechFest East http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast 2003 Mini Cooper S 1996 BMW 328ti ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
