The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 43 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Shops In The DFW Area Re: <FS> DOT spec E36 headlights Re: <FS> DOT spec E36 headlights <E36> Car doesn't start...Solved Re: <E36> Car doesn't start...Solved Re: recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Misc E34 parts for sale on da Bay E30 idle question Re: Dealer Alutec wheels? Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R) Re: Engine missfire problem solved (95 M3) Re: BMW Radio Question Alternator fixed - thanks Re: <OT>Worst jobs
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:05:10 -0600 From: "Celisa" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Shops In The DFW Area Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm wondering if anyone here in the DFW area could recommend me any shops to take my car to other than the dealers, thanks so much in advance. Celisa '99 328is ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:18:03 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <FS> DOT spec E36 headlights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sean, Are these the entire assembly (including adjustment hardware), or just the lenses? My lenses are great, but one of my headights has some binding in the mechanism. May be repairable, but I'm always looking for an easy way out of a little issue like that. Thanks. Jay *********** > On Ebay: US spec take-offs from my 97 M3 (replaced w/ Hella euro spec projectors). Good shape. No reserve. Thanks for the BW. --SC > > > <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462422277> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:24:32 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <FS> DOT spec E36 headlights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sorry, that was meant to be to Sean only. ********* > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sean, > Are these the entire assembly (including adjustment hardware), or just > the lenses? My lenses are great, but one of my headights has some > binding in the mechanism. May be repairable, but I'm always looking for > an easy way out of a little issue like that. > Thanks. > Jay > > > *********** > > On Ebay: US spec take-offs from my 97 M3 (replaced w/ Hella euro spec > projectors). Good shape. No reserve. Thanks for the BW. --SC > > <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2462422277> ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:44:58 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> Car doesn't start...Solved Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had a problem this morning and solved it before I could get to the digest. My car would not start this morning, though it cranked OK. It just wouldn't catch. Check system is clear and five pumps of the gas yielded no codes. Diagnostic checklist started buzzing in my head. Newish crank sensor already, fuel pump fuse is OK...Didn't havea spare fuel pump relay, but could steal my wife's if needed. Called my mechanic, and his troubleshooting consisted of: Did you move it yesterday? Yep, pulled it out of the garage to clean it, then put it back. Two ten second runs yesterday afternoon at 2:00 It's probably flooded. Went back to the car, held the gas to the floor and cranked. After about 20 very long seconds, it started to catch, then with a belch, the car started up and is running fine. I know this happened to Stephen Schlossman in the past. Just thought I'd pass the data point along to remind others that it's a possibility if a car cranks and doesn't start. Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 10:17:26 -0800 From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Car doesn't start...Solved Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pretty common on '90s FI cars. I actually push my car in and out of the garage if I'm not driving it anywhere. My wife thinks I'm insane especially when I push her Sequoia out for a wash. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 9:45 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] <E36> Car doesn't start...Solved Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] I had a problem this morning and solved it before I could get to the digest. My car would not start this morning, though it cranked OK. It just wouldn't catch. Check system is clear and five pumps of the gas yielded no codes. Diagnostic checklist started buzzing in my head. Newish crank sensor already, fuel pump fuse is OK...Didn't havea spare fuel pump relay, but could steal my wife's if needed. Called my mechanic, and his troubleshooting consisted of: Did you move it yesterday? Yep, pulled it out of the garage to clean it, then put it back. Two ten second runs yesterday afternoon at 2:00 It's probably flooded. Went back to the car, held the gas to the floor and cranked. After about 20 very long seconds, it started to catch, then with a belch, the car started up and is running fine. I know this happened to Stephen Schlossman in the past. Just thought I'd pass the data point along to remind others that it's a possibility if a car cranks and doesn't start. Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com [Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:46:18 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Overall, low axle gears make no difference. They trade rpm for torque but power is not changed. If you have a particular corner where are forced to be in a low rpm range of a gear, a lower axle can help, but it may force you into a similar situation in another corner. One thing that low gears do for you is keep you in the higher transmission gears which are spaced closer together, so that may be a benefit also. Driving on a track in 3-4-5 rather than 2-3-4 will keep your rpm closer to the peak power. If this is a track only car, then gear it for redline in top gear on the fastest straight you drive on. Gary Derian --- "Bredle, Donald L." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > I've got the bug to improve acceleration coming out > of turns in my '96 328i (with Conforti cam kit and > software for a little extra oomph). So I checked > with Brett at KMS about the Quaife differential with > lower gear ratios. He has several options, but > hesitates to twist anybody's arm... > > Brett did inform me: > "Available ratios are 2.93 (stock), 3.15, 3.23, > 3.38, 3.46, 3.64. Lower yet are available but not > practical for that vehicle > I make it a habit of not recommending ratios. > Everyone has different expectations. As to a real > world test, work out the percentage difference > between your 2.93 and any of the other ratios. [I > did that and I get 8,10,15,18, and 24 % respectively > from 3.15 to 3.64] Then check your engine speed at > your favourite cruising speed. Add the percentage > difference to the rpm for an estimate of where > you'll be with the new diff. You can do the same > thing with speed per gear, to see where you'll be > shifting at redline, speed wise. " > [Well, I haven't yet tried all that yet...we're just > getting over an ice storm right now!] > > I know I want more lively acceleration than stock. I > don't know the practical difference, though, between > 3.15 at one end and 3.64 at the other. The car will > be used for driving schools (instructor group) and > limited street driving. I can imagine that the > higher the ratio number, the more power is > transferred to the rear wheels, with the trade off > of more shifting as engine hits redline. > > Is there a happy medium on the rear end ratio? What > would you guys who've swapped rear ends recommend? > > > Thanks, > Don Bredle > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:53:14 -0800 From: "JSN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Misc E34 parts for sale on da Bay Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For anyone interest. Thx for looking. http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=silentseven&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 Jeff 90 535i ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:25:02 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: E30 idle question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not all that long ago, I was struggling with a fuel pump issue in my '87 325i. I finally got that resolved after replacing both fuel pumps and finding the wire that broke 2 days later (note to other E30 owners: Driver side, under the back seat, there is a splice in the green/purple wire. If it breaks, the pumps won't run. This area seems to like to collect moisture and corrosion.) While I was putting the main pump in and replacing various bits of old fuel line, I noticed a little canister thingy in the fuel line, after the fuel filter. It was very corroded and less than trustworthy at the connections, so I took it out. I have heard that it is some sort of pulse dampener and that you can remove them with no ill effect. Well, my idle is now a good deal rougher than when that gizzy was in there. For as long as I have owned this car the idle has been less than smooth. It is steady, but periodicaly it acts like a cylinder or two misses. This behavior is now worse with the fuel dampener canister missing. Well, the engineers put it there for a reason... what is the magic canister and why is it there? Should I put it back? Do they wear out (or just rust out)? -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:08:54 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dealer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <d'oh> http://www.iaibmwsp.com/ Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > You don't mention where "here" is, but check this web site. > > Hmm....you don't mention the website either? > > Regards, > > Rich --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.573 / Virus Database: 363 - Release Date: 1/28/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:20:09 -0600 (GMT-06:00) From: M Kittock <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Alutec wheels? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone have any experience with these? I'm looking at the Alutec M in a 17x8 35ET . Plan is to use them for driver schools with R tires. I see they are listed as TUV approved - while good, not sure if that means much. Also, any experiences with Wheel Exchange (sells the Alutec)? Thanks, Mark Kittock '96 328i Sport, many mods, etc.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 10:20:53 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd give my car to Brett so he can check the calibration of the fancy schmancy alignment rack. Gary Derian > Rich - knows Brett has much better things to do than > silly alignments...(Gary D, don't bother posting, I > already did what I could in my garage, I consider an > alignment by Brett to be a check on my sloppy > alignment method...). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 10:34:25 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Engine missfire problem solved (95 M3) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Damn! If I remember correctly that thing routes to the idle control valve. Makes sense. If the ICV circuit has a leak the car can run for crap and barely idle. I'll file that away for future reference. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jamie Howton Sent: Monday, February 23, 2004 7:44 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Engine missfire problem solved (95 M3) Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Since I bought my 95 M3 I have had a problem with an intermittent engine misfire or slightly uneven ("lumpy") idle. So far I have replaced the sparkplugs and coils in order to try and do away with it. This weekend I decided to replace the plastic connector which attaches the crankcase ventillation hoses to the front of the valve cover, not because I thought it would solve this problem, just because it was leaking oil. Well, what do you know, my car now idles and drives more smoothly than it ever has since I have owned it. The part number for those who are interested is 11 15 1 703 710 and it comes with a nylon o-ring installed, it was $15 from the dealer. The o-ring alone is P/N 11 15 1 730 724. These parts are only found on OBDI cars AFAIK; according to ETK the 96 and up M3s use a different crankcase ventillation system with a different connector in the valve cover. If you are having "lumpy idle" problems on a 95 M3, it might be worth a try, it's cheap compared to new coilpacks. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 13:34:39 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BMW Radio Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Talking of radios, does anyone need a stock FM/AM/WB/Cassette head unit? I took this out of my 96 M3 about a year ago when I replaced it with a CD43 unit from a Z3, and it's been sitting sealed in a bag ever since. Perfect condition AFAIK. Comes with original Code Card and manual. Help me clear off my workbench, no reasonable offer refused. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:51:32 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Alternator fixed - thanks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Got my rebuilt alternator on Sat. and installed it in less than 20 minutes. Thanks to all for the input and help. Phil 1995 325 Ti Club Sport ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:23:02 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <OT>Worst jobs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett: "You do need to jack them up if you have running boards..... The one downside of installing them on Kathy's tow vehicle, it totally changed the dynamics of the oil changes." How so? On my Sierra even with the running boards, I can scootch under the truck from the side. Worst case you come in from the front. What I hate most on the GMC's is the shape and lack of height on the oil and ATF drain plugs hex. -Kevin ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
