The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 42 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [uuc] SI Reset Instructions Single VANOS head needed! <WTB> E30 16" Borbet Type C Re: Nice Oil Filter Jobs Ne1 in Columbus, OH? recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Re: recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Engine missfire problem solved (95 M3) E46 console and info center lights changing in brightness Re: E46 console and info center lights changing in Re: SI Reset Instructions Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R) 24# injectors: more Re: Dealer Re: BMW Radio Question
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:57:49 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] SI Reset Instructions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> no offense taken jim...i'm just cheap... =) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm always amazed that people will try this, risking turning their DME into > a $1300 paperweight, rather than spend $49 (or less?) on the Peake Research > reset tool. > > Not directed at you, personally, Jay. I guess that's just one of the (many) > things I don't "get". ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:04:02 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Single VANOS head needed! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Found on M3, 328, 528, and others in foreign markets. Must be flat with no cracks. Ed ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:04:24 -0500 From: "Weimer, Matt J." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <WTB> E30 16" Borbet Type C Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Group, I am looking for one 16" Borbet Type C wheel in an E30 four lug fitment to replace a severely damaged item. I cannot remember the offset exactly but it is around 25mm. If you have more than one wheel FS I may still be interested. Thanks for the help. Matt Weimer ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:41:07 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Nice Oil Filter Jobs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> C'mon Brett, the general is still no sure which side they want to leave the fuel filler on. I get real tired of having to re-park at gas stations because a current GM rental has the fuel filler on the opposite side of the last GM rental. Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brett Anderson > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2004 21:19 > To: UUC Digest > Subject: Re: [UUC] Nice Oil Filter Jobs > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > My Audi 90Q seems to be about the same way. Are nice oil filter > > locations a > > VAG thing ? > > I don't know about VW, but Chevy can't seem to make up their > mind. Most > Chevy V engines have the filter mounted upside down at the > left rear of the > block. Kathy's 2000 Tahoe requires you to venture under the > vehicle to get > to it, and the drain plug. The filter dumps oil all over > itself, and the > drain plug is located above a stepped metal plate that > creates a catch pan > for about 1/2 a pint of oil before it starts to over run the > plate and drop > into the pan. > > But... My 95 Blazer has the oil filter remote mounted just behind the > radiator, with a nice little access door in the underbody > plastics to get to > it, and the oil drain plug only about 12 inches further back, with no > interference. > > You'd at least expect consistency within the one manufacturer, but > nooooo.... > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.573 / Virus Database: 363 - Release Date: 1/28/2004 > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 05:56:03 -0800 (PST) From: Michael Turgeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Club Racing List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Ne1 in Columbus, OH? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am contemplating a vehicle purchase near 270 and Morse Road. If anyone would be available to put some eyes on it before I decide if a trip is worthwhile, please contact me off list. Thanks, Mike __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:23:10 -0600 From: "Bredle, Donald L." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got the bug to improve acceleration coming out of turns in my '96 328i (with Conforti cam kit and software for a little extra oomph). So I checked with Brett at KMS about the Quaife differential with lower gear ratios. He has several options, but hesitates to twist anybody's arm... Brett did inform me: "Available ratios are 2.93 (stock), 3.15, 3.23, 3.38, 3.46, 3.64. Lower yet are available but not practical for that vehicle I make it a habit of not recommending ratios. Everyone has different expectations. As to a real world test, work out the percentage difference between your 2.93 and any of the other ratios. [I did that and I get 8,10,15,18, and 24 % respectively from 3.15 to 3.64] Then check your engine speed at your favourite cruising speed. Add the percentage difference to the rpm for an estimate of where you'll be with the new diff. You can do the same thing with speed per gear, to see where you'll be shifting at redline, speed wise. " [Well, I haven't yet tried all that yet...we're just getting over an ice storm right now!] I know I want more lively acceleration than stock. I don't know the practical difference, though, between 3.15 at one end and 3.64 at the other. The car will be used for driving schools (instructor group) and limited street driving. I can imagine that the higher the ratio number, the more power is transferred to the rear wheels, with the trade off of more shifting as engine hits redline. Is there a happy medium on the rear end ratio? What would you guys who've swapped rear ends recommend? Thanks, Don Bredle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:48:07 -0500 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: recommendations for rear end ratio with Quaife? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reading the following, my first comment would be to swap to a M3. For the cost of the cam kit and rear end, you would be in a M3 and with some change. Now the ideal street diff is the 3:46. But on the other hand, used 3:23 M3 diffs are out there and very cheap compared to the New diff answer. Like 1/3 the cost. So for the price of a new Quaife 3:46 vs a used 3:23 M3 LS diff, I don't see the value. Racing or worrying about that .3 sec it might be worth it, but not for schools. And the other option, used M3 motors would only be about $1000 more than what you would pay for the diff, plus install which is easy as it just bolts and plugs in. Also, depending on the tracks you drive at, the Quaife diff has an issue when you unload one of the rear wheels. So if you curb hop or lift a rear wheel, the diff goes into a full open diff, with no locking what so ever. Not a problem for 99% of the drivers, but I have known people personally that tried them and went back to the clutch pack type locking diffs. KMS does build very good diffs if you do decide to go that route Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -> -> I've got the bug to improve acceleration coming out of turns -> in my '96 328i (with Conforti cam kit and software for a -> little extra oomph). -> I know I want more lively acceleration than stock. -> Is there a happy medium on the rear end ratio? What would -> you guys who've swapped rear ends recommend? -> -> Thanks, -> Don Bredle ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:44:28 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Engine missfire problem solved (95 M3) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Since I bought my 95 M3 I have had a problem with an intermittent engine misfire or slightly uneven ("lumpy") idle. So far I have replaced the sparkplugs and coils in order to try and do away with it. This weekend I decided to replace the plastic connector which attaches the crankcase ventillation hoses to the front of the valve cover, not because I thought it would solve this problem, just because it was leaking oil. Well, what do you know, my car now idles and drives more smoothly than it ever has since I have owned it. The part number for those who are interested is 11 15 1 703 710 and it comes with a nylon o-ring installed, it was $15 from the dealer. The o-ring alone is P/N 11 15 1 730 724. These parts are only found on OBDI cars AFAIK; according to ETK the 96 and up M3s use a different crankcase ventillation system with a different connector in the valve cover. If you are having "lumpy idle" problems on a 95 M3, it might be worth a try, it's cheap compared to new coilpacks. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 10:18:08 -0600 From: "Stephen Kneuper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E46 console and info center lights changing in brightness Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have observed a potential problem in my 1999 E46 323i sedan, 86k miles. Sometimes I notice that the "red" lights in the console and dash change in brightness. I only see this once every few months and saw it for the first time a year ago. I saw it again yesterday. The odometer / time display in the dash and the lighting for the business radio and the rest of the console will sometimes get very dim then, over a period of 5 seconds, come back up to normal brightness. I usually only notice this when stopping in city traffic; under most other conditions I'm paying attention to traffic! I'm guess a bad ground somewhere. A local tech indicated that the E36 had some alternators that put out too much voltage but that would be a "too bright" problem. I don't notice the headlights or the "white" dash lighting changing in intensity, but I do keep my dash lighting dialed down toward the minimum necessary to see the instruments. Anyone seen the same problem and, hopefully, solved it? --steve in austin texas ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 10:56:58 -0600 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E46 console and info center lights changing in Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Get a digital volt meter and "wire" it into the car so you can monitor the voltage. That will let you know if the voltage is actually fluctuating or if might be something else. Under the something else column - could the dimmer control just be dirty? Dennis 01 M5 silver/black At 10:18 AM 02/23/2004 -0600, you wrote: >I have observed a potential problem in my 1999 E46 323i sedan, 86k miles. > >Sometimes I notice that the "red" lights in the console and dash change in >brightness. I only see this once every few months and saw it for the first >time a year ago. I saw it again yesterday. > >The odometer / time display in the dash and the lighting for the business >radio and the rest of the console will sometimes get very dim then, over a >period of 5 seconds, come back up to normal brightness. I usually only >notice this when stopping in city traffic; under most other conditions I'm >paying attention to traffic! > >I'm guess a bad ground somewhere. A local tech indicated that the E36 had >some alternators that put out too much voltage but that would be a "too >bright" problem. I don't notice the headlights or the "white" dash lighting >changing in intensity, but I do keep my dash lighting dialed down toward the >minimum necessary to see the instruments. > >Anyone seen the same problem and, hopefully, solved it? > >--steve in austin texas > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 08:32:03 -0800 (PST) From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: SI Reset Instructions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Sun, 22 Feb 2004, Jim Bassett wrote: > I'm always amazed that people will try this, risking turning their DME into > a $1300 paperweight, rather than spend $49 (or less?) on the Peake Research > reset tool. > > Not directed at you, personally, Jay. I guess that's just one of the (many) > things I don't "get". > > Cheers, > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 Don't give it much thought Jim, most other people are amazed that someone would track or race their expensive European luxury car, risking turning it into a crumpled heap. (with freshly-reset SI lights) :) -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:49:20 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Worst Job (was Front Door Handle R&R) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Whenever I have an intake off, or an engine out, I epoxy the > starter nuts to the starter. Yes, but is this accounted for in your time estimates to do the job... :-) > Just like whenever I install a tie rod assembly, I completely > dismantle it > and use copious amounts of anti-seize on it before installation. I have personally witnessed this when I had Brett do an alignment for me once, hence, when I replaced the tie rods on both of my E30s with new ones, I disassembled them and lightly coated the threads with anti-seize. Guess who I have been bothering to do an alignment on my '89 325is since I replaced the tie rods.... > Somewhere out there, I'd like to think, there are hundreds of > mechanics > thanking "the guy that did this" under their breath, while > their doing a starter, or wheel alignment. Ha, I once was trying to diagnose an issue with my '89 325is (a car that Brett had done some minor work on once and completely unrelated to electrical work, fuel injectors, etc.). So, my car isn't running correctly and one of the things I check is the C191 connector (IIRC) for the fuel injectors. I open it up and there is a coating of grease inside... I think, "wow, now that is odd, that can't be that way from the factory....I am going to ask Brett about it, if an independent or dealer did it, he will be impressed". So, next time I talk to Brett about it, he looks at me and says, "was the grease blue"....and I responded, "yes, it was" and he states "I did that when I replaced the power steering hoses"... > Funny though, I've NEVER got a car into to my place, or any > dealer I ever > worked at, that had the same courtesy performed by the guy before....\ Well, if you would just do that stupid alignment on my '89 325is, you would see that I did the "tie rod courtesy" for ya. Later, Rich - knows Brett has much better things to do than silly alignments...(Gary D, don't bother posting, I already did what I could in my garage, I consider an alignment by Brett to be a check on my sloppy alignment method...). ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:57:09 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 24# injectors: more Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> As many have already pointed out, Barry's use of the OBC mpg output is basically useless when you start doctoring with the injectors and fuel pressure. Anyway, there is no real mystery to this and as people have correctly pointed out, you can adjust the correction factor on the OBC (some have pointed out Internet sites which discuss this further). Anyway, here is a repost of an old message I had posted for a person who went from 17.5# injectors to 21.5# injectors >> >> Well, assuming your OBC MPG estimate is reasonably accurate currently >> and is still set to the factory standard of "1,000", going from 17.5# >> to 21.5# would be: >> >> (((21.5 - 17.5)/17.5) + 1) * 1,000 = 1,229 >> Try that and see how it works with a couple of tanks of gas. In this example, I had no idea whether the current OBC estimate was accurate or not. Furthermore, this example didn't have any adjustment for fuel pressure as a chip was used to accommodate the change in injectors. Also, the maximum correction factor is 1250 so you are pretty limited in adjustment, you certainly can't adjust for 24# injectors. Other data points, my '89 325is OBC is pessimistic by about 8%, my '90 325is is pessimistic by about 5% and my '95 m3 is pessimistic by about 3% (off the top of my head, I really keep track of this stupid stuff out of curiosity). I always figured I would adjust my '95 M3 OBC but I plan to do Schrick cams and 24" injectors so it will be meaningless at that point anyway. Later, Rich - not a Math major... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 11:59:44 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Dealer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > You don't mention where "here" is, but check this web site. Hmm....you don't mention the website either? Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 12:00:41 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BMW Radio Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Dorffer, Rich wrote: > > Are the little flaps that cover the installation screws on the > > >>radio faceplate available separately? If so, anybody know the part > >>numbers? The radio is a CD43 business CD from a Z3. > >> > >> > > > >No, they are not available separately. > -----Original Message----- > From: Ed MacVaugh [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Yes, they are, I have one in a BMW envelope here in front of me. > > I had the number added to the US database: > > 65 12 6 907 824 You might not be the only one Ed, Martin privately pointed out to me that I was wrong pretty quickly (thanks for the correction Martin) and that Bavarian Autosport carries them so they may have been mastered in the US for a while, just not at your local dealer. My confusion came since I looked and looked in the BMW parts ETK and couldn't find it. It wasn't until Martin gave me the part number that I figured out why. The ETK doesn't reflect the item/number separately in the US for any of the radios (M3, Z3, none of them). The only way the part exists as a separate part is in the European parts catalog. I now see the error of my ways and apologize for any confusion. > I also have the number for the knob added as well, since > early production ones' knobs turned to goo. Hmm, I have seen some of these radio knobs which either turn to goo or look like the owner had goo on his hands when he used the radio.... > When I find that number, I'll post it. I also have a number > for the knob to the cassette version somewhere. How about 65 12 6 907 818? Regards, Rich ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
