The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 129 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Wandering 95 M3
Re: Wandering 95 M3
Re: Wandering 95 M3
Re: iX front sway bar links
Re: WTB: 16" x 8" BBS RKs
Re: E30 brakes
Re: E30 brakes
[FS] NEW - Behr E36 Radiator
Re: E30 brakes
E34 Suspension and Bilstein Shocks
Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
Re: [uuc] Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
E36 possible fuel related problem?
Re: [uuc] E36 possible fuel related problem?
Re: 1984 318i E30 - Paint Shop
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 23:46:19 -0400
From: "Mike Katsoris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wandering 95 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
My '95 M3 with 68K on it is wandering over almost every road imperfection
and bump. I'm running Fikse FM20's 8.5x17 all around with 245/40 SO3's.
My steering rack was replaced along with the tierods at which time the ball
joints were pronounced good. This was done by JMK BMW along with the
requisite alignment, which was about 3 months and 5K ago. The car felt very
good upon return with its pinpoint steering accuracy restored. The car
always felt a little darty from day one but I nevered minded it. I like a
car that makes you drive it. The wider wheels and tires exacerbated it a
little, but was worth the trade-off considering the more planted feel that
came with it. I know the 96's went to a staggered tire setup to help dial
in more understeer and eliminate a little of the dartiness some people
complained about.
In the past month the problem seemed to get a lot worse. The shocks are
fairly new sport Bilsteins. The only culprits I can think of are either the
front shock mounts and/or the lower control arm bushings. Its hard to tell
by yanking on the wheels with the car off the ground. Is there some
definitive test? I'd appreciate any recommendations as to the best
replacements if it does turn out to be one or both that have worn out. The
rear shock mounts are new E46 convertible mounts.
Mike Katsoris #13294
2001 330Ci
1995 M3
1976 2002
1988 R100RT
1966 R69S
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 00:20:39 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wandering 95 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The problem can be the tire wear pattern. Try more toe-in.
Gary Derian
> My '95 M3 with 68K on it is wandering over almost every road imperfection
> and bump. I'm running Fikse FM20's 8.5x17 all around with 245/40 SO3's.
> My steering rack was replaced along with the tierods at which time the
ball
> joints were pronounced good. This was done by JMK BMW along with the
> requisite alignment, which was about 3 months and 5K ago. The car felt
very
> good upon return with its pinpoint steering accuracy restored. The car
> always felt a little darty from day one but I nevered minded it. I like a
> car that makes you drive it. The wider wheels and tires exacerbated it a
> little, but was worth the trade-off considering the more planted feel that
> came with it. I know the 96's went to a staggered tire setup to help dial
> in more understeer and eliminate a little of the dartiness some people
> complained about.
> In the past month the problem seemed to get a lot worse. The shocks are
> fairly new sport Bilsteins. The only culprits I can think of are either
the
> front shock mounts and/or the lower control arm bushings. Its hard to
tell
> by yanking on the wheels with the car off the ground. Is there some
> definitive test? I'd appreciate any recommendations as to the best
> replacements if it does turn out to be one or both that have worn out.
The
> rear shock mounts are new E46 convertible mounts.
>
> Mike Katsoris #13294
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 21:50:17 -0700
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mike Katsoris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wandering 95 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Re: [UUC] Wandering 95 M3:
Mike,
From experiences with my '97, if the lower control arm bushings are
old or original, good idea to replace them with E30 //M3 or //M3 LTW
style, or go for Delrin if you don't mind more nvh in the ride. I'm
using 245/35x17 (Goodyear F1) on the front and with those tires
experienced a noticeable increase in the tendency to dart along tar
seams and road imperfections.
If you're running stock negative camber, the tire and wheel setup
is begging for more. The factory crash bolts give an inexpensive -1
degree increase.
To test if the toe in may be insufficient, try adding two turns in
on one of the tie rods. That's deliberately too much in but will show
if more toe in is indicated. If its still darty but not as much, then
the bushings aren't sufficient for the load. Also, you might try
spacing the wheels outward. My front end got more stable after
installing 18mm spacers on the wheels. The 35 series tire and added
negative camber is enough to prevent clearance problems with that much
outward spacing.
Good Luck,
Barry
Mike Katsoris wrote:
>My '95 M3 with 68K on it is wandering over almost every road imperfection
>and bump. I'm running Fikse FM20's 8.5x17 all around with 245/40 SO3's.
>My steering rack was replaced along with the tierods at which time the ball
>joints were pronounced good. ... The car
>always felt a little darty from day one but I nevered minded it. I like a
>car that makes you drive it. The wider wheels and tires exacerbated it a
>little, but was worth the trade-off considering the more planted feel that
>came with it....
>In the past month the problem seemed to get a lot worse.
>Mike Katsoris #13294
>2001 330Ci
>1995 M3
>1976 2002
>1988 R100RT
>1966 R69S
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 00:52:57 -0400
From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: iX front sway bar links
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Going to heim joints is a good idea. Ground Control did not have a set
already for the iX, did they? I assume they asked the lenght of yours and
came up with a set? Most any place that sells heim joints should be able to
do the same.
I have not tried them, but I have heard that 5-Series links (not sure which)
work on the front of the iX. They may or may not be exactly the same, but
they supposedly work. The regular E30 links must be way off in length too?
Stan
> Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 21:52:54 -0400
> From: "Jack - Elephant Motorsports" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> The front iX links are unique to the iX...according to the
> ETK. They're also realy friggin' expensive! When I
> replaced mine I went ahead and switched to the Ground
> Control heim joint links. Adjustable (not really needed of
> course), heim joint, and really nifty! Oh, and cheaper than
> factory!!
>
> I tried using regular E30 links but there is no way to make
> them work, they are oriented incorrectly.
>
> Jack Money
> iXless
> '91 M3...coming soon!
> '95 M3 #86 CM
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 00:57:46 -0400
From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: WTB: 16" x 8" BBS RKs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Just wondering, but do you care what car they fit? E36, E30, E34, VW,
Mitsubishi ...
Stan
>
> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 08:46:21 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> I need 4 or 8 16" BBS RK wheels. With or without tires ok.
>
> Please call or email with details.
>
> Thanks,
> Jon Siccardi
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 615.500.1331
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:16:55 -0400
From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 brakes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Joe,
I would definitely start by bleeding the brakes. Just be certain NOT to use
the pedal method. Use a pressure bleeder or perhaps a vacuum bleeder. I
have one of Steve D'G.'s ( which is awesome), but I understand he is no
longer making them?
Using the pedal to bleed the brakes is a sure way to cause an older master
cylinder to start allowing some blowby/leakage. In fact, that may be
exactly what you have now. In the 2-3 leaking master cylinders which I
experienced, none of them allowed the pedal to sink to the floor. They
allowed just enough leakage for the pedal to feel real crappy, mushy, and
low, but not enough to fail that typical test.
Stan
> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:54:58 -0400 (EDT)
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Now that everything is feel so much better in terms of the way the car
> drives and feels, I am now noticing other little things, like the brake
> pedal feel.
>
> My brakes work fine, they just seem, mushy. There is a fair bit of pedal
> travel before they firm up, but once they do, they are fully capable of
> locking up the tires, the pedal doesn't sink if you hold it, and I can't
> push hard enough to make it hit the floor... but if you release it and hit
> them a second time, they firm up much faster and feel much better.
>
> So any ideas as to where to start? Would flushing the brake fluid help? I
> have no idea how old the fluid is. Given the previous history of the car,
it
> may never have been changed.
>
> -- Joe
>
> --
> Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
>
>
> ------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 09:25:19 -0500
From: "Sam Drake" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 brakes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I was just preparing to replace the fluid in my 1985 318i as proactive
maintenance by having someone pour fluid in the reservoir as needed while
someone else pumped the brakes while I bleed each cylinder one by one,
singing "pump and hold" to the tune of Mary Had a Little Lamb. What is
there about the bleeding by the pump method that damages the cylinder.
Since I won't be introducing any bubbles and my brakes are fine right now I
may not have to, for instance, pump to the floor or whatever thing it is
that damages the cylinder.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stan Jackson Jr.
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:17 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 brakes
Joe,
I would definitely start by bleeding the brakes. Just be certain NOT to use
the pedal method. Use a pressure bleeder or perhaps a vacuum bleeder. I
have one of Steve D'G.'s ( which is awesome), but I understand he is no
longer making them?
Using the pedal to bleed the brakes is a sure way to cause an older master
cylinder to start allowing some blowby/leakage. In fact, that may be
exactly what you have now. In the 2-3 leaking master cylinders which I
experienced, none of them allowed the pedal to sink to the floor. They
allowed just enough leakage for the pedal to feel real crappy, mushy, and
low, but not enough to fail that typical test.
Stan
> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:54:58 -0400 (EDT)
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Now that everything is feel so much better in terms of the way the car
> drives and feels, I am now noticing other little things, like the brake
> pedal feel.
>
> My brakes work fine, they just seem, mushy. There is a fair bit of pedal
> travel before they firm up, but once they do, they are fully capable of
> locking up the tires, the pedal doesn't sink if you hold it, and I can't
> push hard enough to make it hit the floor... but if you release it and hit
> them a second time, they firm up much faster and feel much better.
>
> So any ideas as to where to start? Would flushing the brake fluid help? I
> have no idea how old the fluid is. Given the previous history of the car,
it
> may never have been changed.
>
> -- Joe
>
> --
> Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
>
>
> ------------------------------
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 07:56:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [FS] NEW - Behr E36 Radiator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have a brand new E36 (fits all E36s including 318, 325, 328, M3, etc.) Behr radiator
available
that I do not need. If anyone wants it, let me know. New BMW price for this radiator
is over
$300 if I recall correctly.
$200 (plus $10 shipping) or best offer takes it.
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 01:25:35 -0400
From: "Stan Jackson Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E30 brakes
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Lee,
Are you using the pedal pumping method to bleed your brakes? Try a pressure
bleeder. You may have damaged your master cylinder (see my previous post).
I can't imagine how you continually feel a crappy brake pedal in a BMW M3.
A long shot would be the booster, I suppose. Or a vacuum line to the
booster. Or poor pad selection?
In an E30 325i, the 25mm master cylinder is too much. I like it, but it
makes the brake pedal extremely difficult to modulate. Even I can't handle
it well under autocross conditions (where you usually have to stomp on the
pedal, as opposed to the track where you can plan the braking and be a bit
more gradual in application). I would be surprised if you would not notice
a significant difference with the 25mm master cylinder on a properly
functioning M3.
Stan
> Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 14:01:46 -0400
> From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> I'm dealing with this on my E30 M3. I've basically come to the conclusion
> that, while very powerful, E30 brakes just don't provide very good initial
> feel. I even upgraded to the mythical 25mm M/C (don't bother, it's not
> worth the effort, except it's cheaper than the stock unit). Still, the
> pedal acts excatly like yours.
>
> You can try adjusting the pedal freeplay (nut on the back of the pedal),
but
> that also results in no change of feel.
>
> Like you said, the brakes are very good at stopping. Mine will lock up
the
> wheels with good track tires on board at any speed. They are powerful
> enough to outbrake just about anything on the track, but they just don't
> have the confidence-inspiring feel that some other cars do.
>
> I've tried about 100 things, basically, that's BMW brakes & how they work.
> I don't know why I would expect better, I've had folks with other makes of
> cars drive it & they wonder what the hell I'm talking about.
>
> Lee
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 06:55:36 -0700
From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E34 Suspension and Bilstein Shocks
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Regarding the Bilstein shocks. It is my understanding that the HD and
Touring are for regular stock springs on a car with normal ride
height. The Sport shocks are for cars with lowered suspension. I do not
think that short springs with the HD or Touring shocks is a good combination.
Regarding the front drop with BavAuto and Sachs kits as well as others, BMW
makes 3 different spring perch pads. One is very thin, the most common is
about 1/2" thick and the third is quite a bit thicker. I'm sure someone
can chime in about the exact thickness of these pads. I believe they are
stackable. BMW uses these to "adjust" ride height. Thus, if you go to a
BavAuto spring and do not want a 2" drop in the front, before you start,
obtain the thickest spring perch pad. These pads cannot be installed
except by removing the strut completely, compressing the spring and
removing the topnut since the spring sits on it.
It is always a good idea to find someone who has a car with the suspension
you are thinking about and get a ride/drive in it and measure it for yourself.
Mike Holbrook
Spring Valley, CA
89 535im
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 10:56:28 -0400
From: "Dave Kelley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm moving and already packed my Bentley manual... if the instructions
were even in there!
But I got SRS error codes 1 & 17 on my 94 325i, which should be the
Airbag Controller. The airbag light stays on and there are no error
codes for the seatbelt tensioner. I think this should be the same
procedure as for an E36 M3.
On the assumption that the problem really is the airbag controller, I
found a used, but supposedly working controller. Can anyone give me
instructions or point me to a link for instructions on replacing this?
I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they said it might have to be
replaced by the dealer and not a DIY job. Or do I just disconnect the
battery and replace the controller?
Any experienced guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Kelley
98 M3/4
94 325i
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 08:12:35 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Dave,
it will depend on the production date of your car. I assume your car
doesn't have the two orange sensors in the engine compartment (one on each
fender). I know my wife's 93 325is did, but my 5/94 M3 did not. If it does
not have those senders then your sensor is below the rear seat and is held
down by four nuts and a connector (disconnect the battery). Just put your
hands under the rear and pull up hard to remove the rear seat cushion to
access the controller. IF you're lucky your replacement will work BUT I bet
you will need to get it reprogrammed for all the errors to go out.
Evidently there were a bunch of versions of the controller and software and
seat senders in 94-95. While on the surface it looks like a simple problem,
the devil is in the details. I don't think a 2door controller will work on
a 4door car without being reprogrammed. I expect as the E36 ages more
owners are going to have this problem.
A guy I know is going through a similar problem and I sold him my controller
from my 5/94 M3. I'm still waiting to cash the check until I hear from him
that the reprogramming worked.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Kelley
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 7:56 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] [UUC] Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
I'm moving and already packed my Bentley manual... if the instructions
were even in there!
But I got SRS error codes 1 & 17 on my 94 325i, which should be the
Airbag Controller. The airbag light stays on and there are no error
codes for the seatbelt tensioner. I think this should be the same
procedure as for an E36 M3.
On the assumption that the problem really is the airbag controller, I
found a used, but supposedly working controller. Can anyone give me
instructions or point me to a link for instructions on replacing this?
I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they said it might have to be
replaced by the dealer and not a DIY job. Or do I just disconnect the
battery and replace the controller?
Any experienced guidance is appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave Kelley
98 M3/4
94 325i
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 08:00:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 possible fuel related problem?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
My 1995 E36 325i yesterday died as I was coming off a
traffic light, seem/felt like it was it was out of
gas, (gas tank probably half full) tried to started up
again, it would turn but it would not fire up, all the
lights, radio, works fine, so not electrical related.
I'm thinking no fuel is getting to the engine? the
only fuel related parts I've changed is the fuel
filter and that was at ~75,000 miles, I'm currently at
~115,000 miles.
is there any fuel parts that are common to fail that I
should change or take a look at? any one encounter
such a problem before?
the car is an automatic if that matters.
thanks,
Paul
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 08:18:07 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 possible fuel related problem?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
1) Unless you've checked the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box don't rule out
electrics. I don't remember which one it is, but they are known to blow.
if that doesn't work
2) Go hit the bottom of the fuel tank under the passenger side three times
hard. Sometimes on older cars the fuel pump gets "stuck" and beating on
that area will free the pump. However, I've never seen it happen on a car
as it's running, only when it's been turned off and then won't start.
I know it sounds silly, but I've started three "dead" E36s this way in the
past few months.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 8:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] [UUC] E36 possible fuel related problem?
My 1995 E36 325i yesterday died as I was coming off a
traffic light, seem/felt like it was it was out of
gas, (gas tank probably half full) tried to started up
again, it would turn but it would not fire up, all the
lights, radio, works fine, so not electrical related.
I'm thinking no fuel is getting to the engine? the
only fuel related parts I've changed is the fuel
filter and that was at ~75,000 miles, I'm currently at
~115,000 miles.
is there any fuel parts that are common to fail that I
should change or take a look at? any one encounter
such a problem before?
the car is an automatic if that matters.
thanks,
Paul
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 08:59:39 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 1984 318i E30 - Paint Shop
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Art, body and paint prices vary greatly by geographic region. Where are
you located? (And are you related to Knute?)
Your car has a "book" value (depending on the book) of $1500? $2000? Or
if it is really really nice, $3000? Here in the S.F. Bay Area, a quality,
trim-off paint job in a reputable shop using name brand paints will easily
cost $5K to $6K, which is more than your car would be worth even after the
paint job. But if you're interested, contact me at home and I can give you
a list of East Bay shops that have been recommended by discriminating
Bimmerheads.
At the other end of the scale, you could get the bargain Miracle job
(minimal masking, paint over the trim) for ~$600. Figure on it lasting 2
or 3 years.
I'm wrestling with the need to repaint my hood, front bumper and lower
front valence. This would be an easier decision if my car were worth, say,
$40K.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i mostly Delphin gray
Home: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 20:26:15 -0400
>From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: 1984 318i E30 - Paint Shop
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Hi,
>
> Are there any recommendations on re-painting? Go to an authorized
dealer?
>Good Body shop?
>
> Suggestions are welcome...
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
