The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 183 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Calif. Speedway Tribute to Le Mans Time Trial Oil Leak (E36) Re: Oil Leak (E36) WTB E34 535i Tan rear interior door panel Re: check your battery fluid level... Re: check your battery fluid level... Re: check your battery fluid level... Re: E36 rear shock mounts Re: E36 rear shock mounts Help!! Vibration in my E34 M5 Re: Help!! Vibration in my E34 M5 AC tools...follow up best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Re: SA koni adjustments
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 08:58:23 -0700 From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Calif. Speedway Tribute to Le Mans Time Trial Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Time is short. Friday-Sunday May 14-16. I am gathering a group of BMWs to help fill two run groups for the San Diego PCA at California Speedway in Fontana for a 3-day time trial event run interleaved with the POC Tribute to Le Mans. This is 3 days of driving CCW on the big road course that uses about 1/2 of the oval. Good chance to explore top speed territory but you gotta have brakes. The POC will be running an enduro on Saturday. Lots of heavy P-car iron shows up for this very fast track. Track map here: http://img51.photobucket.com/albums/v155/M5-Mike/CalifSpeedway.jpg $300 for the event is a steal, as is $20 to rent a transponder if you want one. If you can't make the entire event, single day rates are available at just $125 per day. Friday and Sunday should be the best days since Saturday is short due to the POC Enduro. If you want to run for times and points, you'll need a transponder. http://www.pcasd.org/schedule/documents/2004TTMay14-16FontanaFlyer.pdf There may still be a few garages available ($100 for 3 days) so you can get out of the sun. Contact me ASAP if you want to go and I will make the connection. Experienced drivers only, please. You need 5/6 pt, fire extinguisher, proper attire and helmet, tech inspection. There is still time. Mike Andre ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 12:13:51 -0500 From: Sam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Oil Leak (E36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I noticed a bit of motor oil leaking under the plastic underbody cover near the radiator. Not a big leak, small spot in parking lot. I couldn't find in my service manual mention of an engine oil cooler there. I read somewhere that there is a thermostat that often leaks and that can be fixed with replacement O rings. Anyway I need to pull off the covers to take a look at what's really happening and thought I'd check for suggestions before I get my hands dirty. Its a 93 model 325i sedan with about 150,000 miles on the clock. Leak started soon after an oil change (Mobil one) but I don't see any leakage around the filter area. Thanks Sam ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 09:27:05 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Leak (E36) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> no oil cooler on your car unless you added it. The pan could be leaking, the oil filter housing, the sender to the oil pressure light, the vanos connection or it could be coming from the back and dripping forward, or it could be your power steering hoses. Marco of no help -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sam Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 10:14 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Oil Leak (E36) I noticed a bit of motor oil leaking under the plastic underbody cover near the radiator. Not a big leak, small spot in parking lot. I couldn't find in my service manual mention of an engine oil cooler there. I read somewhere that there is a thermostat that often leaks and that can be fixed with replacement O rings. Anyway I need to pull off the covers to take a look at what's really happening and thought I'd check for suggestions before I get my hands dirty. Its a 93 model 325i sedan with about 150,000 miles on the clock. Leak started soon after an oil change (Mobil one) but I don't see any leakage around the filter area. Thanks Sam Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 14:05:25 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: WTB E34 535i Tan rear interior door panel Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, Anyone have a driver's side rear tan interior door panel from an E34 535i for sale? If so please contact me privately. TIA Evan ------------------------------ Date: 12 May 2004 13:24:27 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: check your battery fluid level... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With or without dihydrogen monoxide? Curt Ingraham John Bolhuis wrote: > distilled or filtered? Carbon or reverse-osmosis? Water Wetter or no? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 10:53:18 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: check your battery fluid level... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> i heard dihydrogen monoxide in too little quantities can kill a person, and too much can also do the same... =) ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > With or without dihydrogen monoxide? > > Curt Ingraham ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 18:45:06 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: check your battery fluid level... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have some special dehydrated di hydrogen monoxide that is easily reconstituted by adding water. It works great in batteries. I should put some on eBay. Gary Derian > i heard dihydrogen monoxide in too little quantities can kill a person, and > too much can also do the same... =) > > With or without dihydrogen monoxide? > > > > Curt Ingraham ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 16:09:12 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Better still the E46 M3 RSM's and the Z3 reinforcement plates. > Supposed to be the best combo of OEM mounts. NOT ! The attachment point to the rear shock tower is rarely if ever a failure point on stock RSMs. The problem is the fragile rubber filler between the shock attachment point and the metal plate bolting to the rear shock tower. That OE rubber is junk. It is way too compliant, it rots, and it tears. Z3 plate bracing fails to address this problem. Aftermarket RSMs do. Like Jim has pointed out, either JTD or GC RSMs are way better in all respects. With the GC one having the advantage of bolting through the wheel well (making future shock removals a 2 minute event). YMMV, alex f > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > Brian, use E46 Convertible mounts, they're beefier than any of > > the E36 factory mounts. Urethane can get squeaky and ride poorly, > > so it should be used only on track/competition-only cars. > > > > Scott Miller > > GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 23:09:58 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Better still the E46 M3 RSM's and the Z3 reinforcement plates. > > Supposed to be the best combo of OEM mounts. > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > NOT ! Really, there is a better OEM mount? What is it? I agree with Mike, the E46 RSMs and Z3 reinforcement plates are the best OEM option. Now, if someone wants to include aftermarket units too, that is potentially a different answer. > The attachment point to the rear shock tower is rarely if ever a failure > point on stock RSMs. The problem is the fragile rubber filler between the > shock attachment point and the metal plate bolting to the rear > shock tower. > That OE rubber is junk. It is way too compliant, it rots, and it tears. That is a bit harsh. Yes, BMW RSMs won't last forever, they are a consumable item. Depending on your use and the suspension, they can have a life of 10k miles to 100k miles. > Z3 plate bracing fails to address this problem. No, it doesn't do anything to address the weaknesses of the OE RSM, but it does help to prevent tearing out the rear shock tower which is an all-too-common problem in E36s. None of the RSMs themselves address this issue per se. > Aftermarket RSMs do. Like Jim has pointed out, either JTD or GC RSMs are > way better in all respects. With the GC one having the advantage > of bolting > through the wheel well (making future shock removals a 2 minute event). At the expense of additional harshness and additional cost. OE RSMs are inexpensive, you could purchase 3-4 sets of them for what some of the aftermarket RSMs cost. I have heard first hand many complaints about the JTD units as basically being crap and people gave them away or threw them in the trash (they may have changed the design since AFAIK). There are a whole host of aftermarket RSMs available (GC, Rogue, JTD, TC Kline, etc.) these days ranging from rubber mounts to urethane, monoball, etc., depending on your intended use so choose wisely based on what the intended use is. For may, OE mounts are just fine. Regards, Rich 95 M3 - TC Kline monoball RSMs ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 09:00:58 -0700 (PDT) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Help!! Vibration in my E34 M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had my car to chase down some oil leaks which turned out to be the rear main seal. At the same time, a faulty pressure plate and new clutch were put in (only 30k on the clutch after a full rebuild but a long story for another day). The transmission was in and out at least 3 times during the process. After getting the car up to speed (70-85mph) I noticed a low frequency droning sounding like it is coming from the right rear which I hadn't heard before. I figured maybe dropping the driveshaft so much affected a worn part which was now giving up (194,000 miles). My mechanic inspected the driveshaft and half shafts. The driver's side half shaft was the worst and we replaced that (although the driveshaft should be replaced soon as well) but the problem persists. Another experienced friend then thought it might be the exhaust as the hangers were pretty bad. I replaced those which made it much tighter but the vibration is still there. I have had a different set of tires and wheels on the car as well and have eliminated that as a source. The driveshaft does have very noticeable play. Would it manifest itself at the rear of the car? I would just like to elminate any other possible sources before spending $400 to replace the driveshaft. Thanks. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 (194,000 on chassis, 34k on rebuild) '00 323iT __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Movies - Buy advance tickets for 'Shrek 2' http://movies.yahoo.com/showtimes/movie?mid=1808405861 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 19:43:56 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Help!! Vibration in my E34 M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A driveshaft vibration will be at high frequency compared to a tire vibration. You may have a bad wheel bearing which makes a rumble. A bad bearing gets louder and softer as you turn and change the load. Gary Derian > > After getting the car up to speed (70-85mph) I noticed > a low frequency droning sounding like it is coming > from the right rear which I hadn't heard before. I > figured maybe dropping the driveshaft so much affected > a worn part which was now giving up (194,000 miles). > My mechanic inspected the driveshaft and half shafts. > The driver's side half shaft was the worst and we > replaced that (although the driveshaft should be > replaced soon as well) but the problem persists. > Another experienced friend then thought it might be > the exhaust as the hangers were pretty bad. I replaced > those which made it much tighter but the vibration is > still there. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 20:28:12 -0500 From: "tom dotzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: AC tools...follow up Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sam, When converting my e30 m3 to 134 I used a little red vacuum pump I got from Harbor Freight for $13.95 on sale. It worked fine and my AC is still cold after a couple years. Tom Dotzler 87 535i 89 M3 97 318ti w/boost ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 22:39:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, So the radiator neck broke on our '93 325is, apparently a common failure. What're the common replacement options? Is there an updated part from BMW that isn't plastic? Is there an otherwise identical replacement that isn't plastic? I see ~$200 for what I assume are OE replacements, then between $450 and $680 for higher capacity AL rads... Anything else? I figure there's a "typical best option" already figured out... :-) Thanks! Mark ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 22:57:52 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mark Andy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Andy > So the radiator neck broke on our '93 325is, apparently a common failure. Really, gee, never heard of it. Some of guys on the E30 list claim *ALL* BMW radiators last 150k - 200k miles... (sarcasm off) > What're the common replacement options? Is there an updated part > from BMW > that isn't plastic? Is there an otherwise identical replacement that > isn't plastic? No, there is no updated part from BMW that doesn't contain plastic nor do I know of any aftermarket options other than aluminum units which you mention. You can get some additional cooling capacity from the OE euro E36 M3 radiator but it still has plastic end cap/necks, etc. > I see ~$200 for what I assume are OE replacements, then between $450 and > $680 for higher capacity AL rads... Anything else? I figure there's a > "typical best option" already figured out... :-) Yeah, the best option is an OE replacement Behr unit for ~$200, sometimes less for a street car. How long did your stock unit last? How long do you plan to use the car on the replacement unit? Typically, the answer to those questions point towards a stock unit. But, if you track your car or plan to use it for 150k miles or more, then an aluminum unit might make more sense (financially/security). Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 19:50:46 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SA koni adjustments Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Koni push-and-turns that I've seen for the E36 have a hex socket on the shaft of the shock. What I usually do is put the appropriate hex bit socket on a breaker bar and put the shock on the hex bit. Turn it upside down, and stand on the breaker bar. Then push the shock down and make the adjustment. Jim Ochi At 09:36 AM 5/11/2004, Gary Derian wrote: >Clamp a Vise-grip to the flat on the shock. Turn the shock upside down and >stand on the Vise-grip. Push shock down and make adjustment. When >finished, quickly turn shock right side up so it extends while upright to >prevent air from entering the inner chamber. > >Gary Derian > > > > So I put these shocks (koni sa) on rear last night, adjusting them prior > > to that. > > > > What a pain! I got a pretty smoking deal on the shocks so I can't > > complain (well, not much anyway... :-), but that adjustment method is > > really pretty silly. > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
