The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 195 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Wiper Wire short
  Re: E36 M3 shock - what to get and best place to buy?
  Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
  White BMWs Was: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
  Re: White BMWs Was: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
  O2 sensor as tune up part?
  Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
  Re: E36 Z3 misfire
  Re: Bad coil ground or crankshaft position sensor, was: E36
  FS: 95 M3
  E34 Touring - Lost in the roof rack rails
  WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
  Re: cruise control gremlins
  <Misc>Copycat motorsport wheels?
  Re: Shipping Large items

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:16:40 +0000
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wiper Wire short
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Scott Thanks...  Much...

  Your right, after inspecting the car and the Wiper motor,  I have no idea how to 
remove it other than cutting the car apart...

  Off I go this weekend to find the problem...

Art
E30 318i 1984


> Hi Art, the first order of business is to have the ETM for your car.  You
> need to know which wires to test, and where they go.
> 
> I like to do electrical troubleshooting by disconnecting components and
> testing each one in relative isolation.  The wiper stalk wires travel down
> the steering column to a connector under the dash.  On my 325i, the
> connectors for all the steering wheel switches and such are ganged, that
> is, they physically attach to each other.  So you'll have to un-attach them
> to unplug the wiper wires.  Now you can use a VOM to test the switch.  See
> if any of the switch wires are shorted to ground that should not be.  You
> will probably have to operate the switch in its various positions while
> testing for the short.  If the switch is bad, you have to remove the
> steering column cover to remove and replace.  I think you also have to
> remove the steering wheel.  (You'd think I'd know more, having just removed
> my steering wheel and column cover last week, but hey, I'm old and losing
> it.)  To re-install the steering wheel, either replace the locking nut or
> use LocTite on the old one's threads.
> 
> If the switch is OK, then it is either the motor or the wires to the motor.
> You can test the wires to the motor from the chassis connector under the
> dash where  the stalk connector was attached.  Again, look for a ground
> where there isn't supposed to be one.  If you're lucky, you'll find a wire
> with the insulation worn off, and you can just splice in a good wire, or
> cover it with shrink tubing.
> 
> If you have to replace the wiper motor, I recommend just selling the car as
> is and getting another one.  The bolts that hold the motor in place are
> impossible to see or get to.  The Bentley manual recommends removing the
> entire wiper arm assembly and motor as a unit.  As nearly as I can tell,
> the entire car was built around the wiper motor, and it was not really
> designed to be removed.
> 
> Maybe someone more brave and practiced can recommend a better way to do
> this.  But I'd just sell the car.
> 
> Scott Miller
> GGC BMW CCA
> 
> >Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 20:34:15 -0400
> >From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Wiper Wire short
> >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >I have a 1984 E30 318i, with a wiper short someplace.  I'm ok with
> >troubleshooting the mechanical stuff but the electrical comes to a
> different
> >level...  It is buring out 30 fuses for some reason and I don't know where
> >to start to find the issue?
> >
> >Any help would be appricative.
> >
> >Art
> >1984 E30 318i
> 
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 10:30:48 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 M3 shock - what to get and best place to buy?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Eurasian has good prices on aftermarket shocks, and they include free
shipping with a purchase over a minimum price.  But right now they are shut
down to move their warehouse, and they won't be shipping new orders until
early June.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: E36 M3 shock - what to get and best place to buy?
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>A couple of places I find that have good prices for
>suspension is www.shox.com and www.bimmerparts.com.  I
>don't think they have "original equipment" shocks.
>
>Mike
>
>--- "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>wrote:
>>
>I'm looking for stock (or
>> similar feel to stock)
>> replacements as this is my daily driver, never
>> tracked and there are WAY TOO
>> MANY potholes where I live in WI.  I have found
>> numerous on line places to
>> buy upgraded suspensions, but haven't had much luck
>> finding stock equipment.
>> Can anyone recommend a good shock and a place to
>> buy?
>>
>> Thanks, Jeff



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 13:46:15 -0400
From: "Carey Probst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Actually, I think they were at Watkins Glen this weekend for the
Ultimate Drivers School.  Saw several there.


Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced


Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:11:24 -0400
From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Remember when the E46 M3 first came out and all you saw on the road
were Laguna Seca Blue. I can't remember the last time I saw one on
the road. Have they all been totalled?
--
...steven
2003 Mini Cooper S
1996 BMW 328ti
1990 Mazda MX6 +199800 miles

**********


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 19:07:49 +0100
From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "ben keyes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: White BMWs Was: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

ben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

"I realize there are different sorts of white - the "white" paint
section at Home Despot is scary - but I'm still having a hard
time imaining a white which is "spectacular" on an E46 M3,
since white doesn't look all that good on big vehicles & I
consider the M3 to be "big" relative to other cars."

Home Despot - I like it :)

White BMWs are practically illegal in the UK.  Dealers will often refuse to
trade in BMWs just because of the colour, and the retained value in a lease
deal is 5-15% lower than a nice, safe metallic.  (Not unsurprisingly a
silver BMW is now becoming a liability because of the colour's ubiquity.)
The advantage is you can pick up a two year-old, white 320i or 325i 4-door
with low miles at auction for �10-11k.

It must be something to do with the sun.  White BMWs, even 7s, look great in
Cape Town, Miami, Cannes, LA or Sydney.   In London, Helsinki, Wellington or
Amsterdam they look like what they are - big cars painted Fridge White.  A
shame - the M3 in white has a touch of the racetrack refugee about it, and
the E36/E39 suit the colour.  Many years ago a friend's dad had a white
Alpina B7 with buffalo hide - and I thought it was the best car in the
world.

Andy T
'03 318i 2.0.  "It's black - black!  As black as the tank that drives
through the flowerbed of despair." - Steve Coogan





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 11:57:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: White BMWs Was: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This past weekend's driving school at Las Vegas Speedway given by the Sin
City Chapter had no LS Blue M3s, but there were a few Alpine White M3s, as
well as an Individual Blue Water Metallic (kind of like Silverstone Blue
on the M5), along with the usual silver, black, and Carbon Black examples. 
Imola Red is also quite popular, as is the dark grey color.  I was
wondering about where all the LSB M3s went, too --- I barely see any on
the street.  Perhaps they're embarassed about their color choice? 

--Andre



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 14:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: O2 sensor as tune up part?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

Anyone know if O2 sensors are a normal tune up part for a '93 325 motor?  
I'm experiencing sluggish power compared to other cars...

On other vehicles I've worked on, every now and then an O2 sensor would 
work well enough to not throw a code, but still needed to be changed.  Is 
the 02 sensor on a '93 325 a lifecycled part?

Thanks!

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 14:46:05 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

O2 sensors last 50 to 80,000 miles or so.  Even if there is no code, an old
sensor has a low output which causes the engine to run rich.
Gary Derian



> Howdy,
>
> Anyone know if O2 sensors are a normal tune up part for a '93 325 motor?
> I'm experiencing sluggish power compared to other cars...
>
> On other vehicles I've worked on, every now and then an O2 sensor would
> work well enough to not throw a code, but still needed to be changed.  Is
> the 02 sensor on a '93 325 a lifecycled part?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 13:29:43 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 Z3 misfire
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


"Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was out running some errands in my '99 Z3 2.8 when it started to
> misfire badly and lose power big-time. Check engine light was on.
> I was at my destination so I blubbed into the parking lot and shut
> things down. Twenty minutes later, I came back out of the store
> ready to face the music, but the car started right up and ran fine.
>
> I gingerly drove home and everything worked ok, check engine light
> did stay on.
>
> Plugged in my obd-2 code reader and it showed P0601 Ignition System
> Misfire (Internal Control module memory check sum error).
>
> Car has 50k miles, weather was warm and sunny :)
>
> any ideas? things to look at?

Chris,
I had the same issue with my E36M3 at around 60K miles. Long story short -
one of the coils was bad, but was flaking out only when it warmed up. The
car would start/run cold, but would loose power and eventually die when
warm.

I had gone through hell trying to diagnose this problem, suspecting
everything from DME, dozen sensors, HFM, coils, plugs and what not. In the
end, all of the above components passed all Bentley tests. I only
identified the culprits after I borrowed HFM, coils and DME from friends
and started swapping parts in and out.

Still do not know which coil(-s) where bad. I replaced all 6 of them with
new Bosch ones (~$50/pop).
Bosch are the best replacements, and they come with new spark plug
extension tubes (aka elephant trunks).

As a possible culprit (correlation? causation? coincidence?), I had a
leaking valve cover gasket that had been on my to-do list forever. It
seamed a little into the spark plug holes.
Needless to say I replaced that one right away.

HTH,
alex f




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 12:45:13 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bad coil ground or crankshaft position sensor, was: E36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: bad coil ground, was: E36 Z3 misfire:
     Sometimes weak sparking is caused by a loose coil bolt or loose 
coil ground strap.  I discovered this a few months after a dealer 
installed new plugs during an the inspection II.  Weak grounding can 
contribute to premature coil failure, too.
     The misfire also could be due to a known problem with the 
crankshaft position sensor, for which BMW made a recall available during 
the 99 model year.  Date of manufacture will determine if that's applies 
in this case.
good luck,
Barry

> <>"Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:I was out running some errands in my '99 Z3 2.8 when it started to

> <>misfire badly and lose power big-time. Check engine light was on.I 
> was at my destination so I blubbed into the parking lot and shut
> things down. later, the car started right up and ran fine.drove home 
> and everything worked ok, check engine light
> did stay on.  Plugged in my obd-2 code reader and it showed P0601 
> Ignition System
> Misfire (Internal Control module memory check sum error).Car has 50k 
> miles, weather was warm and sunny :)any ideas? things to look at?
> <>
> /Chris,
> I had the same issue with my E36M3 at around 60K miles. Long story 
> short -one of the coils was bad, but was flaking out only when it 
> warmed up. The car would start/run cold, but would loose power and 
> eventually die when
> warm. I had gone through hell trying to diagnose this problem,...Still 
> do not know which coil(-s) where bad. I replaced all 6 of them....
> HTH,alex f/
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:04:01 -0000
From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "M-Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FS: 95 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The time has finally come when I  need to decide which car to keep and which
to sell, and so I am reluctantly putting my M3 on the market.

95 M3, coupe, 5-sp, white/black leather, excellent, 83k, $15,900

Details and pictures at  http://home.att.net/~fluhar/m3.htm

Bob Fluharty
95 M3
87 325is/3.0
Cincinnati



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:26:40 -0500
From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E34 Touring - Lost in the roof rack rails
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Attempting to install a Yakima roof rack on my e34 touring one of the nut
plates went flying down one of the rear rails and disappeared into the end.
Attempts to remove the aluminum nut plate only served to drive it in deeper.

It seems logical that the rails would drain water into the cavity where the
glass door shock is located - but I can find no pass through.

I cannot find any information in the Bentley book about removing the trim
around the roof rack.

HELP!

I have some of the larger nut plates and could grind one down to fit if
necessary, I don't like the idea of leaving a foreign object in a drain tube
somewhere - it will surely come back to haunt me someday.

Karl Zemlin
Indianapolis




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:53:45 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Being the "car nut" I am, i'm always getting drafted to help friends and 
co-workers make vehicle buying decisions.

Right now I'm helping a friend trying to buy a 2000 or 2001 e39 M5. 
Fellow enthusiast who is pretty particular about what he wants...

Looking for a 2000 or 2001 model in the $40k - $50k range.  Slightly 
flexible on price outside that range for something stellar.

Really wants it in either LeMans Blue or Imola Red, with the respective 
two-tone interior to match.  Would consider other colors that flow well 
with the two-tone interior (silver with the black/silver comes to mind, 
or possibly carbon black with the blue/black interior).

Strongly prefers a car with Park Distance Control, and would prefer the 
chrome/satin trim over the wood, but these items aren't dealbreakers.

Anyone have any leads on a car that fits the profile?  I've been through 
eBay, cars.com and BMWUSA's CPO site, and have found a couple potentials 
but we're still looking for more.

Any digesters waiting for the e60 M5 that are ready to unload their e39, 
that want it to go to a good home?

Thanks!

~jedinite
http://bmw.jedinite.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 16:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: cruise control gremlins
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Ben,

I never had to troubleshoot a BMW cruise control.
but...  If it is not the stalk you could give the
brake pedal and/or clutch switch a look.  They are the
switches that disengage the cc when you press either
pedals.  On my VW they have been known to stick, and
that causes the cc to think that the brake and/or
clutch pedal is always being pressed.  Oh yeah, also
check the fuse.  Try the quick easy stuff before
conceding and finally going to the PITA fix.

Good Luck

Mike

--- Ben Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> This is a 1985 323i that I have owned for about 3
> years and has never had a
> working cc.  I knew the cable was missing so I
> replaced the box  that
> attaches to the left fender well.  When I removed my
> old one I noticed that
> 2-3 wires were pulled out of the plug under the
> dash.  I put it all back
> together and said a small prayer.  Nope nada
> nothing!  I read in my bentley
> that the brain for the cc is under the dash on the
> drivers side above the
> glove box and oh yeah the cc stalk is real loose
> too.  I hoped the bentley
> would show me how to disconnect the stalk but it
> doesn't.  Can somebody show
> me how to remove the wires on the stalk and attach
> another one?  I guess I
> could just cut and splice but I would rather do it
> right.  Since the stalk
> and the part are the two things that are the obvious
> things that need help I
> will start with them.  Anybody out there want to
> help tackle this one with
> me or tell me where to go look?
> 
> Ben Dixon
> 1985 323i:(
> 
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



        
                
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 19:49:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <Misc>Copycat motorsport wheels?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Any comments on these wheels? or similar models "cast in Italy?"  I love the forged 
motorsport look,
but can't stand that OEM price.  Going to email the seller to see if they can be more 
specifics
about the manufacturer.

http://tinyurl.com/25m7p

Just wish I'd jumped faster at those $1k FM 10s a couple months back.

TIA

Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 01:55:08 +0000
From: "Evan A" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shipping Large items
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

You may have already thought of this, but would each be under 165" in girth 
is you put one each of two boxes?

Evan
--- Original message ---

Well it seems that I have run into a problem. I have a
box that is 67x18x42 inchs with a set of bumpers in
them. UPS and FedEX show that this is to big of a item
to ship ground.
Quote UPS:
"The requested service is invalid from the selected
origin. Package exceeds the maximum size total
constraints of 165 inches (length + girth, where girth
is 2 x width plus 2 x height)."

Any one have first hand experance shiping items this
big? Any help would be great.

Thanks

Kyle Sanchez

_________________________________________________________________
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