The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 185 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  E36 rear shock mounts
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
  Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
  Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
  Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
  coolant?
  Re: E34 Lower Control Arms - Aluminum vs. Steel???
  Need help turning off oil and service lights
  Re: check your battery fluid level...
  SRS Fault/Non-Fault/Who's Fault?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 06:30:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Kjos

> I agree that pleats make a difference and withdraw my earlier poorly thought
> out statement. A statement was recently made that they wouldn't make pleated
> filters if the depth of the pleat wasn't a factor. The more I read and
> listen It really sounds like oil soaked cotton filters, even if they flow
> slightly better, aren't really going to do much over the stock filter. I
> wonder why Dinan and may others make such a big deal out of this. Dinan
> claims (if I recall correctly) about a 12HP gain. I can't believe that they
> would hype this statistic just to sell $40  filters and cold air kits. Could
> it be?

--- Chris Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Possibly the gains stated are more from the 'cold air' part than the
> 'reduced restriction' part.  This, of course, would be a very difficult
> comparison to make while controlling all the variables, and thus very
> difficult to (dis)prove.

As Gary D has so aptly pointed out many times, most if not all OE BMW air intake 
systems are "cold
air" intakes.  Therefore, it can't be from the 'cold air' part as you state.

If one of the after-market intake systems allows more efficient breathing, it likely 
comes from
the ability to use a filter that flows better due construction/material (debatable as 
we have
seen) or from the ability to use a larger filter (I know the ITG filter on my car is 
big and some
of the K&N filters are big as well like the 9" barrel filter) or the construction of 
the air horn
in the filter (the ITG filter has a nicely shaped air horn leading into the intake 
tube).  I know
Jim Conforti claimed that they got more gains with an ITG filter than without any 
filter due to
the shape of ITG's air horn.

As far as Dinan and marketing hype/hp claims....no comment.

Regards,

Rich



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:46:36 -0400
From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I realize that the benefits may not be actual, but I'm pretty sure that the
intention of the systems is to imply, if not outright state, that they are
providing a cold air benefit.  The Eurosport website goes to the trouble of
explaining how much lower the heat transfer coefficient is of their
materials, which would seem to be claiming a cold air improvement over
stock.  The TMS site, however, skips that and claims the filter is much
better than the "very restrictive factory airbox".

I'm not arguing their case, just highlighting what I think their case is.  I
bought a used Conforti CAI for my '94 325i.  I don't think it makes any more
horsepower, but it sounds a lot better.

Chris B.
'94 325i

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Richard Dorffer
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 9:31 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] Air Filter Pleat Reply


--- Chris Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Possibly the gains stated are more from the 'cold air' part than the
> 'reduced restriction' part.  This, of course, would be a very difficult
> comparison to make while controlling all the variables, and thus very
> difficult to (dis)prove.

As Gary D has so aptly pointed out many times, most if not all OE BMW air
intake systems are "cold
air" intakes.  Therefore, it can't be from the 'cold air' part as you state.

If one of the after-market intake systems allows more efficient breathing,
it likely comes from
the ability to use a filter that flows better due construction/material
(debatable as we have
seen) or from the ability to use a larger filter (I know the ITG filter on
my car is big and some
of the K&N filters are big as well like the 9" barrel filter) or the
construction of the air horn
in the filter (the ITG filter has a nicely shaped air horn leading into the
intake tube).  I know
Jim Conforti claimed that they got more gains with an ITG filter than
without any filter due to
the shape of ITG's air horn.

As far as Dinan and marketing hype/hp claims....no comment.

Regards,

Rich

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 07:18:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

--- Chris Baker <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I realize that the benefits may not be actual, but I'm pretty sure that the
> intention of the systems is to imply, if not outright state, that they are
> providing a cold air benefit.  The Eurosport website goes to the trouble of
> explaining how much lower the heat transfer coefficient is of their
> materials, which would seem to be claiming a cold air improvement over
> stock.  The TMS site, however, skips that and claims the filter is much
> better than the "very restrictive factory airbox".

Your point I thought was that they make more horsepower over stock due to the "cold 
air" part.  I
already stated what I think about that and that the stock intake is a "cold air 
system" so that
really isn't the reason they "make more power" (if they do) and they might make more 
power due to
other features and they avoid power losses due that are attributable to "non-cold air 
intakes".

I think why some of the after-market units make such a big deal about the "cold air" 
part is that
many of the POS after-market systems that originally came out didn't do much if 
anything to shield
the intake from the engine bay heat and fan wash.  So, many of them caused more issues 
and loss of
power.  So, the "better" after-market systems tout being a "cold air intake" as a 
result.

It is just sort of funny though when people say they are replacing the stock system 
with a "cold
air intake" when the stock system already is.  I guess people should say they are 
replacing the
"stock system" with an "after-market system" which is also a cold air intake, etc.  
The factory
air box may indeed be restrictive somewhat based on their design (and desire to reduce 
noise,
etc.) which the after-market cold air intakes can take advantage of.

It is also interesting when people remove the air horn in factory air boxes claiming 
gains... 
Conforti went on to say that the air horn is really one of the nicer features of the 
ITG air
filter.

Regards,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 07:52:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 rear shock mounts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 08:09 PM 5/12/04, Rich Dorffer talked about:
>I have heard first hand many complaints about the
>JTD units as basically being crap and people gave them away or threw them in
>the trash (they may have changed the design since AFAIK).

From: Jim Bassett
> Not to start a whole product debate thread, but I'd be curious as to what 
> the "crap" problems where.

I will concede that I should have used a different term...

:-)

I also don't want to start a debate (see my paragraph below on my primary point).  The 
"issues" I
recalled when I wrote this post late last night was about the rubber insert wearing 
out quickly,
even more quickly than a stock mount.  It didn't seem to matter whether it was the 
'his' or the
'her' bushings that originally came with them.  Also, I remembered someone having an 
issue with
the studs ripping out which caused the shock tower to be damaged.

So, I did some searches on the E36 M3 digest and found a few supporting posts.  If 
anyone is
interested, I found six different people that had the issues I mentioned above with 
the JTD mounts
and replaced them with something else (usually GC or OE units).  The E36 M3 digests I 
found were
#2987, #2809, #2808, #2636 and #1585.  You can search the archives via Google or here:

http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/

Like I said, there *may* have been design changes since then, I don't know for 
certain.  I just
know there were a number of issues with them at one time.  I also know of some people 
on this list
that had issues with them but they can speak for themselves if they so choose.

> As mentioned, I've been using 2 sets on both my E36s for years. Only one 
> problem (which I think has since been solved): One of the bolts in one RSM 
> for the 13mm nut would come unlocked from the mount and needed to be 
> re-Locktited. No big deal. But then, I didn't spend time swapping in and 
> out bushings either - set and forget was/is my philosophy.

> I hadn't noticed any appreciable added harshness in ride quality, either. 
> With 6+ years of track time, I'm sure I'd notice, but on the other hand 
> probably wouldn't care if I did :-)

And that really is my point too.  There are a lot of choices these days in RSMs.  I 
would simply
say that one should choose one that will work for their application and criteria.  
Therefore, the
E46 RSM may be a perfectly acceptable choice to some. On the other end of the 
spectrum, a TC Kline
mono-ball unit may be perfectly acceptable.  And, there appears to be a number of 
choices in
between.

Regards,

Rich 

95 M3    - TC Kline RSMs with Z3 reinforcement plates with welded in,
           upside-down, studs (I made myself) for easy removal and 
           access to the top of the DA Konis
90 325is - E46 RSMs and Z3 reinforcement plates

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:56:30 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

One more intake comment.  Any change to the length of the tube from the
throttle to the outside air will change the way the MAF/HFM reads the air
flow.  The intake tube has it own resonance, at some speeds it reads higher
than actual air flow, at others, it reads lower.  The fuel and spark tables
are adjusted to compensate for this.  Changing it means, for best
performance, the chip needs to be re-tuned for the new patterns.

Gary Derian


>
> As Gary D has so aptly pointed out many times, most if not all OE BMW air
intake systems are "cold
> air" intakes.  Therefore, it can't be from the 'cold air' part as you
state.
>
> If one of the after-market intake systems allows more efficient breathing,
it likely comes from
> the ability to use a filter that flows better due construction/material
(debatable as we have
> seen) or from the ability to use a larger filter (I know the ITG filter on
my car is big and some
> of the K&N filters are big as well like the 9" barrel filter) or the
construction of the air horn
> in the filter (the ITG filter has a nicely shaped air horn leading into
the intake tube).  I know
> Jim Conforti claimed that they got more gains with an ITG filter than
without any filter due to
> the shape of ITG's air horn.
>
> As far as Dinan and marketing hype/hp claims....no comment.
>
> Regards,
>
> Rich
>



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:04:12 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

One problem is that, at Dinan, $40 filters cost $200.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 21:30:47 -0700
>From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Air Filter Pleat Reply
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Mike & Group,
>
<snip>
>I wonder why Dinan and may others make such a big deal out of this. Dinan
>claims (if I recall correctly) about a 12HP gain. I can't believe that
they
>would hype this statistic just to sell $40  filters and cold air kits.
Could
>it be?
>
>John Kjos



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:31:12 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The cold air part is much more significant than the reduced restriction
part, except that the cars are already equipped with a cold air system from
the factory.

Gary Derian


> Possibly the gains stated are more from the 'cold air' part than the
> 'reduced restriction' part.  This, of course, would be a very difficult
> comparison to make while controlling all the variables, and thus very
> difficult to (dis)prove.
>
> Chris B.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:42:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

Cool, thanks for the info!

Can't get the radiator until tomorrow unfortunately though, so that makes 
getting it done prior to the weekend a bit problematic but hopefully still 
doable.

Anything weird on the radiator replacement, or do I just need to remove 
the plastic air duct to the altenator, unbolt the hoses, and yank the rad?

Thanks!

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 12:05:52 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: "Mark Andy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


"Brian Daley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I bought mine about a year ago from Zygmunt http://www.bimmerparts.com/
> (no affiliation, etc.) as they had the best price at the time.
> Currently it looks like they have stock replacements from 3
> manufacturers for E36s:
> L&R  $191.29
> Behr  $201.04
> Nissens  $208.08

Wow, that's steep!

I arranged an OEM E36 radiator group buy for local (LSC) members a few
years ago. I could dig up my records for all the sources and their quotes,
but we ended buying from radiators.com  They had a local warehouse (ability
to inspect for damage prior to delivery) and with 8.25% TX sales tax we
paid around $150 for South African Behr radiators.

The radiators were identical to the dealer parts. One of our members went
in on the purchase to return the $150 Behr for the $280 on he had purchased
from the dealer. The radiators were identical down to the color and
placement of the stickers. He got his money back from the dealer.

bimmerparts.com deals is pretty good as well. If waterpump/thermostat
replacement are on your to-do list.

> I don't know if it's been proven, but it's been suggested that the more
> neutral ph of Dex-Cool spec coolant (the orange stuff) is easier on the
> plastic components of the cooling system and may allow them to last
> longer.

There are numerous accounts of correlation, but not causation.
That's good enough for me.

> For the couple of bucks difference in price I figured it's worth a shot.
> You can get Prestone Dex-Cool certified coolant (I think it's actually
> a GM spec) at any WalMart or auto parts store.

Yep.
That's what I use as well.

alex f



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 10:41:12 -0700
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Rich says:
> So the radiator neck broke on our '93 325is, apparently a common failure.

>Really, gee, never heard of it.  Some of guys on the E30 list claim *ALL*
>BMW radiators last 150k - 200k miles...

>(sarcasm off)

>Yeah, the best option is an OE replacement Behr unit for ~$200, sometimes
>less for a street car.  How long did your stock unit last? How long do you
>plan to use the car on the replacement unit? Typically, the answer to those
>questions point towards a stock unit.  But, if you track your car or plan to
>use it for 150k miles or more, then an aluminum unit might make more sense
>(financially/security).

Mine lasted 149K but now I have an extra that I've used as a shrine in my garage as a 
member of the Umoronite tribe. Brand new, still in box. Should you decide to go OEM, 
let me know.

Pingger


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 13:47:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: coolant?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


I've been using texaco dex-cool equivalent coolant in my bmw for quite a
few years, but the last time I was in the autozone I saw they had a G-05
(M-B, VW spec) coolant available. Anyone use it? Better/worse/same as
dex-cool?

joel


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:51:24 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E34 Lower Control Arms - Aluminum vs. Steel???
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yes.  In fact the latest Euro M5 spec went back to steel arms for some
reason.  That was good enough for me and I used steel arms in my M5.

Gary Derian


> Other than cost and weight, is there any difference between aluminum and
> steel lower control arms on an E34?
>
> Can steel be substituted for aluminum with no penalty other than weight?
>
> Dana
> 94 530i



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 07:27:56 -0700
From: "Ben Dixon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Need help turning off oil and service lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hey can anybody tell me why I wasn't able to turn off the lights with my
Peake tool?  I tried twice on a 1984 318i and nothing worked.  Never had
this problem before.  What am I doing wrong???    thanks,   ben

Ben Dixon
'95 325i



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:11:45 -0700
From: Peter B Du Bois <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: check your battery fluid level...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>






>I have some special dehydrated di hydrogen monoxide that is easily
>reconstituted by adding water.  It works great in batteries.  I should put
>some on eBay.

>Gary Derian

Obviously this is used to make dry ice....... A relevent selling point for
eBay

Peter
                      
                      
                      
                      
                      



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 10:48:37 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SRS Fault/Non-Fault/Who's Fault?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I had to replace the turn signal flasher relay on my '90 325i  Note that
this is an airbag car.  I have had the steering wheel off a few times in
the past, so I was fully aware that the Torx screws that thread into the
captive nuts on the far side of the airbag/horn button assembly are easy to
bugger up.  But do I learn from my mistakes?  Apparently not.

So I disconnect the battery and wait more than the required 20 minutes for
the SRS system to fully discharge.  I remove the airbag, pull the wheel,
and change the relay.  Then I put the wheel back on, with the airbag wiring
harness threaded through the hole to the steering column.  Only I goofed,
and the harness didn't go into the steering column, it went down through
the crack between the wheel and the column.  So once again I remove the
wheel, put the wires where they belong and tighten up the big nut that
holds the wheel - again.  (Yes, I used LocTite).

Then I reinstalled the airbag.  And sure enough, I buggered up the threads
again, and now I have a half-installed airbag I can neither screw down
tight or remove.  Sigh.  Oh well, something else to fix when I have more
time.  So to be safe, I left the airbag wires discocnnected (the orange
plug on the underside of the steering column), and accepted the fact that I
was going to have to have the SRS system fault condition re-set.

Reconnected the battery.  Turn signal works great, mission accomplished.
But much to my surprise, the SRS light does not stay on.  WTF?  I thought
it would stay on to warn of a fault?  But it is off.  Do I just
mis-understand the system's function?

TIA for any answers on this.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i w/ buggered up airbag mounting screw threads - again
1991 325iA w/ no such issues





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