The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 184 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Air Filter Pleat Reply Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Re: E36 rear shock mounts Re: E36 rear shock mounts Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Re: E36 rear shock mounts Re: SA koni adjustments Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Unichip Re: Unichip Steering Wheel Squeak - FIXED E34 Lower Control Arms - Aluminum vs. Steel???
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 21:30:47 -0700 From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Air Filter Pleat Reply Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike & Group, I agree that pleats make a difference and withdraw my earlier poorly thought out statement. A statement was recently made that they wouldn't make pleated filters if the depth of the pleat wasn't a factor. The more I read and listen It really sounds like oil soaked cotton filters, even if they flow slightly better, aren't really going to do much over the stock filter. I wonder why Dinan and may others make such a big deal out of this. Dinan claims (if I recall correctly) about a 12HP gain. I can't believe that they would hype this statistic just to sell $40 filters and cold air kits. Could it be? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S1 '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:16 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Sports and air filter questions > Depth of the pleats most definitely does matter. The downstream side of the > filter develops a negative pressure due to engine manifold vacuum, and maybe > ram air effect on the upstream side. This pressure difference is what drives > air thru the filter, and the restriction is inversely proportional to > surface area, without regard to what direction it faces(more or less). > MikeG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 1:02 AM > Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Sports and air filter questions > > > > But Gary, that's not what I've read. We need to read the independent > > research stuff again. I'll find it and forward it again. Let's both read > and > > then discuss. OK? also, the surface area you are talking about is the > depth > > of the pleats. These are not in the direct path of the air flow so it > > probably doesn't matter much how deep they are. It's the surface area > taking > > the direct air hit that really matters IMHO (nice out, huh?). > > > > John Kjos > > '99 540i/6: Dinan S1 > > '01 525iTa: Stock > > Portland, OR > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 01:53:12 -0400 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, The gains vary widely from one model to another depending on how well designed the stock intake and filter are. BMW's in general seem to have pretty well designed stock filters. I'm guessing they pick one of the most favorable to quote in their claims. Another favorite of mine (not saying Dinan does this) is fine print that says you can expect gains of up to 12 hp. Last time I checked "up to 12 hp" includes zero... Brian '94 325ic John Kjos wrote: >Mike & Group, > >I agree that pleats make a difference and withdraw my earlier poorly thought >out statement. A statement was recently made that they wouldn't make pleated >filters if the depth of the pleat wasn't a factor. The more I read and >listen It really sounds like oil soaked cotton filters, even if they flow >slightly better, aren't really going to do much over the stock filter. I >wonder why Dinan and may others make such a big deal out of this. Dinan >claims (if I recall correctly) about a 12HP gain. I can't believe that they >would hype this statistic just to sell $40 filters and cold air kits. Could >it be? > >John Kjos >'99 540i/6: Dinan S1 >'01 525iTa: Stock >Portland, OR > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 6:16 PM >Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Sports and air filter questions > > > > >>Depth of the pleats most definitely does matter. The downstream side of >> >> >the > > >>filter develops a negative pressure due to engine manifold vacuum, and >> >> >maybe > > >>ram air effect on the upstream side. This pressure difference is what >> >> >drives > > >>air thru the filter, and the restriction is inversely proportional to >>surface area, without regard to what direction it faces(more or less). >>MikeG >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "John Kjos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 1:02 AM >>Subject: Re: [UUC] Bilstein Sports and air filter questions >> >> >> >> >>>But Gary, that's not what I've read. We need to read the independent >>>research stuff again. I'll find it and forward it again. Let's both read >>> >>> >>and >> >> >>>then discuss. OK? also, the surface area you are talking about is the >>> >>> >>depth >> >> >>>of the pleats. These are not in the direct path of the air flow so it >>>probably doesn't matter much how deep they are. It's the surface area >>> >>> >>taking >> >> >>>the direct air hit that really matters IMHO (nice out, huh?). >>> >>>John Kjos >>>'99 540i/6: Dinan S1 >>>'01 525iTa: Stock >>>Portland, OR >>> >>> >>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> >>__________________________________________________________________________ >>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. >> >>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> >> > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:05:06 -0400 From: "Chris Baker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Air Filter Pleat Reply Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Possibly the gains stated are more from the 'cold air' part than the 'reduced restriction' part. This, of course, would be a very difficult comparison to make while controlling all the variables, and thus very difficult to (dis)prove. Chris B. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Kjos Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2004 12:31 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Air Filter Pleat Reply Mike & Group, I agree that pleats make a difference and withdraw my earlier poorly thought out statement. A statement was recently made that they wouldn't make pleated filters if the depth of the pleat wasn't a factor. The more I read and listen It really sounds like oil soaked cotton filters, even if they flow slightly better, aren't really going to do much over the stock filter. I wonder why Dinan and may others make such a big deal out of this. Dinan claims (if I recall correctly) about a 12HP gain. I can't believe that they would hype this statistic just to sell $40 filters and cold air kits. Could it be? John Kjos '99 540i/6: Dinan S1 '01 525iTa: Stock Portland, OR --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.684 / Virus Database: 446 - Release Date: 5/13/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 22:23:09 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike, the E46 convertible shock mount is the same part as the E46 M3 mount. In my opinion, the reinforcement plates are overkill for street driving. Then again, it probably depends on your streets. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 21:06:58 -0400 >From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Better still the E46 M3 RSM's and the Z3 reinforcement plates. Supposed to >be the best combo of OEM mounts. Worked well in my E36 M3. >MikeG >----- Original Message ----- >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 5:59 PM >Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 rear shock mounts > > >> Brian, use E46 Convertible mounts, they're beefier than any of the E36 >> factory mounts. Urethane can get squeaky and ride poorly, so it should be >> used only on track/competition-only cars. >> >> Scott Miller >> GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 23:03:36 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> About the reinforcement plates - I don't think it's as much a street vs. track usage thing as it is an aftermarket shock thing. If you're using aftermarket shocks with stiffer compression/rebound valving, then you should probably use the reinforcement plates. Jim Ochi At 10:23 PM 5/12/2004, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: >Mike, the E46 convertible shock mount is the same part as the E46 M3 >mount. In my opinion, the reinforcement plates are overkill for >street driving. Then again, it probably depends on your streets. > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Tue, 11 May 2004 21:06:58 -0400 > >From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts > >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > >Better still the E46 M3 RSM's and the Z3 reinforcement plates. >Supposed to > >be the best combo of OEM mounts. Worked well in my E36 M3. > >MikeG > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2004 5:59 PM > >Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 rear shock mounts > > > > > >> Brian, use E46 Convertible mounts, they're beefier than any of the >E36 > >> factory mounts. Urethane can get squeaky and ride poorly, so it >should be > >> used only on track/competition-only cars. > >> > >> Scott Miller > >> GGC BMW CCA > > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 01:34:08 -0400 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I bought mine about a year ago from Zygmunt http://www.bimmerparts.com/ (no affiliation, etc.) as they had the best price at the time. Currently it looks like they have stock replacements from 3 manufacturers for E36s: L&R $191.29 Behr $201.04 Nissens $208.08 I went with the L&R figuring why pay 5-10% more for what's essentially an identical part. Although Behr seems to be the most common OE manufacturer the rad I took out of my '94 325ic was an L&R which had roundels cast into the plastic end tanks and a 1994 production date so apparently BMW uses L&R as an OE supplier as well. If it's good enough for BMW it's good enough for me. I don't know if it's been proven, but it's been suggested that the more neutral ph of Dex-Cool spec coolant (the orange stuff) is easier on the plastic components of the cooling system and may allow them to last longer. For the couple of bucks difference in price I figured it's worth a shot. You can get Prestone Dex-Cool certified coolant (I think it's actually a GM spec) at any WalMart or auto parts store. Brian '94 325ic Mark Andy wrote: >Howdy, > >So the radiator neck broke on our '93 325is, apparently a common failure. > >What're the common replacement options? Is there an updated part from BMW >that isn't plastic? Is there an otherwise identical replacement that >isn't plastic? > >I see ~$200 for what I assume are OE replacements, then between $450 and >$680 for higher capacity AL rads... Anything else? I figure there's a >"typical best option" already figured out... :-) > >Thanks! > >Mark > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 01:46:25 -0400 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oh yeah, you might also want to replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum one. It's made of the same plastic as the radiator neck and is probably similarly deteriorated. If you haven't replaced the original plastic-impeller water pump now's a good time to do that too. If you're going to replace the pump, Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com has a kit including the following: * Radiator * Aluminum thermostat housing * Thermostat * Water pump * Upper and lower radiator hose * Accessory belt * 1.5L OEM coolant For $289 that's a pretty good deal. Brian '94 325ic Brian Daley wrote: > I bought mine about a year ago from Zygmunt > http://www.bimmerparts.com/ (no affiliation, etc.) as they had the > best price at the time. > Currently it looks like they have stock replacements from 3 > manufacturers for E36s: > L&R $191.29 > Behr $201.04 > Nissens $208.08 > I went with the L&R figuring why pay 5-10% more for what's essentially > an identical part. Although Behr seems to be the most common OE > manufacturer the rad I took out of my '94 325ic was an L&R which had > roundels cast into the plastic end tanks and a 1994 production date so > apparently BMW uses L&R as an OE supplier as well. If it's good > enough for BMW it's good enough for me. > > I don't know if it's been proven, but it's been suggested that the > more neutral ph of Dex-Cool spec coolant (the orange stuff) is easier > on the plastic components of the cooling system and may allow them to > last longer. For the couple of bucks difference in price I figured > it's worth a shot. You can get Prestone Dex-Cool certified coolant > (I think it's actually a GM spec) at any WalMart or auto parts store. > > Brian > '94 325ic > > Mark Andy wrote: > >> Howdy, >> >> So the radiator neck broke on our '93 325is, apparently a common >> failure. >> >> What're the common replacement options? Is there an updated part >> from BMW that isn't plastic? Is there an otherwise identical >> replacement that isn't plastic? >> >> I see ~$200 for what I assume are OE replacements, then between $450 >> and $680 for higher capacity AL rads... Anything else? I figure >> there's a "typical best option" already figured out... :-) >> >> Thanks! >> >> Mark >> >> Search the >> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> >> __________________________________________________________________________ >> >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW >> CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> >> >> > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 23:59:57 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 rear shock mounts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 08:09 PM 5/12/04, Rich Dorffer talked about: >I have heard first hand many complaints about the >JTD units as basically being crap and people gave them away or threw them in >the trash (they may have changed the design since AFAIK). Not to start a whole product debate thread, but I'd be curious as to what the "crap" problems where. As mentioned, I've been using 2 sets on both my E36s for years. Only one problem (which I think has since been solved): One of the bolts in one RSM for the 13mm nut would come unlocked from the mount and needed to be re-Locktited. No big deal. But then, I didn't spend time swapping in and out bushings either - set and forget was/is my philosophy. I hadn't noticed any appreciable added harshness in ride quality, either. With 6+ years of track time, I'm sure I'd notice, but on the other hand probably wouldn't care if I did :-) (RSM history: a set of original JTD mounts were in the M3. They were then swapped with E46 mounts from the race car. Those subsequently tore (still with stock shocks, BTW, but probably due to race car stress) and were replaced with an unused set from a list member (now with Koni SAs). The originals that went into the race car had their bushings changed to the black "track" ones.) Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 00:02:14 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: SA koni adjustments Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 07:50 PM 5/12/04, J. Ochi talked about: >The Koni push-and-turns that I've seen for the E36 have a hex socket on >the shaft of the shock. What I usually do is put the appropriate hex bit >socket on a breaker bar and put the shock on the hex bit. Turn it upside >down, and stand on the breaker bar. Then push the shock down and make the >adjustment. Or, use a T-handle hex driver. You can them stand on it with both feet, kinda like a pogo stick :-) The rest of the procedure is the same, and works quite well. The shock tube should also be marked as to which way is soft (or firm, I forget which). Cheers, Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 00:05:50 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 07:57 PM 5/12/04, Rich Dorffer talked about: >You can get some additional cooling capacity from the OE euro E36 M3 >radiator but it still has plastic end cap/necks, etc. Actually, the radiator from the S54 equipped M Coupes has a higher capacity than the M3/325 radiator. Has been a fairly inexpensive upgrade for a couple of the local Club Race cars (Hi MarkD :-)) My 2 cents, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - with upgraded raditor ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 08:23:13 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: best replacement radiator for E36 6 cyl? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > At 07:57 PM 5/12/04, Rich Dorffer talked about: > >You can get some additional cooling capacity from the OE euro E36 M3 > >radiator but it still has plastic end cap/necks, etc. Jim Bassett wrote > > Actually, the radiator from the S54 equipped M Coupes has a > higher capacity than the M3/325 radiator. That would be sort of tricky since it is the same radiator (the euro E36 M3 and the S54 radiator, I never mentioned 325)... The euro E36 M3 and all S54 equipped M coupes share the same radiator (part number 17 11 2 227 281) > Has been a fairly inexpensive upgrade for a couple of the local Club Race > cars (Hi MarkD :-)) I considered it, particularly as I have the euro oil cooler on my car and this radiator receives the euro oil cooler brackets on the bottom of it without any fabrication but I ended up going the Zionsville aluminum radiator route. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 02:13:44 -0700 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, bmw digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Unichip Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Unichip piggyback engine management system: Anyone with experience or recommendations, pros, cons, risks, on the Unichip piggyback engine management sytem? This seems to be a possible solution to dial in my ECU for low cost engine mods that make similar power to more costly commercial packages, or for any custom conditions commercial remappings aren't available for. This will be on an OBDII E36 //M3. I would be glad to share my tuning results with anyone who would like to go in on this project. Tia, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 11:30:09 +0200 From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Unichip Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Being a local product, I hear lots about the Unichip. Basically all of it is good and you should have excellent results too as long as you keep in mind that this is a piggyback system. The main advantage is that it's very cheap and also that if you pull it off, your car goes back to normal. The main problem is that when it's dyno-tuned the tuner doesn't know exactly which one of the many internal maps the ECU is using. So he is altering the ECU outputs based on this map, but a week later the ECU might decide to switch maps and now you're using a different map but the piggyback chip alters it the same way it would have altered the original map. That's why they often ask you to reset your ECU (by switching the battery off overnight) from time to time when you use a Unichip. Another cheap and highly successful product in racing applications has been Mr. Turbo, but that is a standalone system. Have a look: http://www.mrturbo.co.za Cheers, P On Thu, May 13, 2004 at 02:13:44AM -0700, JKerouac wrote: > Unichip piggyback engine management system: > > Anyone with experience or recommendations, pros, cons, risks, on the > Unichip piggyback engine management sytem? This seems to be a possible > solution to dial in my ECU for low cost engine mods that make similar > power to more costly commercial packages, or for any custom conditions > commercial remappings aren't available for. This will be on an OBDII > E36 //M3. > I would be glad to share my tuning results with anyone who would like to > go in on this project. > Tia, > Barry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 07:23:51 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Steering Wheel Squeak - FIXED Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The mouse like squeak I was getting turning the steering wheel (audible at parking lot speeds) has now been fixed. Simply replaced the ball bearing kit that the shaft rides on directly behind the steering wheel. I also replaced the snap ring, a job which is much easier with the right tool and a little trick I figured out. (Prying the steering shaft a little to give more space between the collar and snap ring groove) Thanks for the suggestions. Phil 325Ti Club Sport 318 Ti Active ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 May 2004 09:27:50 -0400 From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E34 Lower Control Arms - Aluminum vs. Steel??? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Other than cost and weight, is there any difference between aluminum and steel lower control arms on an E34? Can steel be substituted for aluminum with no penalty other than weight? Dana 94 530i ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
