The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 194 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
R12 and R134
Re: E36 M3 shock - what to get and best place to buy?
Re: E36 M3 Trivia (some questions)
Re: '85 535i charging issue
Re: Heat Storage Reservoir
Re: [E30] 325iX still has steering binding...
Re: Airbag Surprise!
Re: Wiper Wire short
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:11:24 -0400
From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Remember when the E46 M3 first came out and all you saw on the road
were Laguna Seca Blue. I can't remember the last time I saw one on
the road. Have they all been totalled?
--
...steven
2003 Mini Cooper S
1996 BMW 328ti
1990 Mazda MX6 +199800 miles
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:25:24 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
They're a collector's item, all in museums. Next time you'll see one is
at the Barrett-Jackson auction.
Ed
Steven Schlossman wrote:
> Remember when the E46 M3 first came out and all you saw on the road
> were Laguna Seca Blue. I can't remember the last time I saw one on the
> road. Have they all been totalled?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 20:26:56 -0700
From: dlseeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
We had one in the shop (BMW dealership) yesterday. When they first came
out, LS blue and Phoenix yellow were the only choices. Now I see the
whole range of colors. The new white is truly spectacular on that car,
but mostly they seem to be silver and black.
Donna
Steven Schlossman wrote:
> Remember when the E46 M3 first came out and all you saw on the road were
> Laguna Seca Blue. I can't remember the last time I saw one on the road.
> Have they all been totalled?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 00:01:49 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Donna wrote:
> The new white is truly spectacular on that car,
what is "new" about white exactly ? white is white is
white in my experience, other than when it's a
pearlescent I guess, which usually looks too pimped
out unless it's on big SUV's, then it just looks sorta
normal.
Ben
used to drive a pearlescent purple Explorer test
vehicle, long story...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 21:14:52 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On May 17, 2004, at 9:01 PM, ben keyes wrote:
>> The new white is truly spectacular on that car,
>
> what is "new" about white exactly ? white is white is
> white in my experience, other than when it's a
> pearlescent I guess, which usually looks too pimped
> out unless it's on big SUV's, then it just looks sorta
> normal.
Actually, there are a ton of "shades" of white. I never realized there
were, either, until I parked my "Alpine White" E36 M3 next to my wife's
"random white" Honda Accord. The Accord had the whiter, crisper white.
I kid you not.
This message brought to you by UltraTide.
- Mark
-----
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 11:02:15 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I realize there are different sorts of white - the "white" paint
section at Home Despot is scary - but I'm still having a hard
time imaining a white which is "spectacular" on an E46 M3,
since white doesn't look all that good on big vehicles & I
consider the M3 to be "big" relative to other cars.
I'll just have to look for one I guess, tho there aren't that
many around on my commute for whatever reason.
Ben
Mark Dadgar wrote:
> Actually, there are a ton of "shades" of white. I never realized there
> were, either, until I parked my "Alpine White" E36 M3 next to my wife's
> "random white" Honda Accord. The Accord had the whiter, crisper white.
>
> I kid you not.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 09:49:44 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On May 18, 2004, at 8:02 AM, ben keyes wrote:
> I realize there are different sorts of white - the "white" paint
> section at Home Despot is scary - but I'm still having a hard
> time imaining a white which is "spectacular" on an E46 M3,
> since white doesn't look all that good on big vehicles & I
> consider the M3 to be "big" relative to other cars.
Ok, that I have to agree with.
- Mark
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 13:08:56 -0700
From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: R12 and R134
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Scott wrote:
> Last week I had a discussion on this subject with one of the techs
> who works at Bavarian Professionals. They still have R12 and
> recommend against changing to R134 unless you already have to
> replace many of the parts of your AC system. He said that the
> R12, while in short supply and expensive, is still cheaper than
> replacing all the parts that need to be changed to be R134-compatible.
Another reason to keep R12 is that it blows colder than R134. The AC in
older vehicles is not that great with R12 and is even worse with R134. I
know of people with 2002s and well as older Range Rover Classics that were
disappointed after switching to R134.
Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA 50039 (who in High School and College had a '76 2002 and '78 320i
with AC that was not very cold even with a full charge of R12)...
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 23:43:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 M3 shock - what to get and best place to buy?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
A couple of places I find that have good prices for
suspension is www.shox.com and www.bimmerparts.com. I
don't think they have "original equipment" shocks.
Mike
--- "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
I'm looking for stock (or
> similar feel to stock)
> replacements as this is my daily driver, never
> tracked and there are WAY TOO
> MANY potholes where I live in WI. I have found
> numerous on line places to
> buy upgraded suspensions, but haven't had much luck
> finding stock equipment.
> Can anyone recommend a good shock and a place to
> buy?
>
> Thanks, Jeff
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! - Internet access at a great low price.
http://promo.yahoo.com/sbc/
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 09:35:04 +0200
From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 M3 Trivia (some questions)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
So it really is an evolution of the ECU which coincides with the introduction
of OBD-II. Later ECU is better and OBD-II is not necessarily as evil as some
people make it sound. That makes sense now, thanks for the replies!
P
On Mon, May 17, 2004 at 12:22:47PM -0400, Gary Derian wrote:
> OBD II, for the US market monitors all aspects of the emission control
> systems. There are oxygen sensors in front and behind the catalysts, and
> pressure sensors for the fuel tank. Also misfire detection and cross
> checking of air flow control is standard.
>
> BMW changed their engine strategy in the US at the same time OBD was adopted
> (1996 model year) in favor of low speed torque at the expense of high end
> power.
>
> There is no reason to eliminate OBD II if you have a good car with it.
> Retrofitting OBD II into an older pre-OBD II vehicle would be rather
> difficult, but possible. If you could, or knew someone who could disable
> the various emission monitoring issues of OBD II, then the retrofit would be
> easier.
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
> > On Mon, May 17, 2004 at 07:48:56AM -0700, Richard Dorffer wrote:
> > > > 2. Which cars had the OBDI versus OBDII technology? And which is
> > > > best?..problems with either, etc.?
> > >
> > > OBDI is easier to tune and does much less emissions adjustments compared
> to
> > > OBDII. Most anyone interested in modifying their car prefers OBDI.
> > >
> > > I am not aware of any particular "problems" other than the adaption of
> the
> > > OBDII with respect to tuning efforts.
> >
> > Can anyone confirm or deny the following statement:
> >
> > OBDII is a much better management system with far more potential due to
> the
> > extra sensors etc. Most people whine because it's much harder to pirate
> chips
> > due to the integration of the immobiliser codes into the software and you
> need
> > more sophisticated eqiupment, but if you know what you're doing OBDII
> offers
> > more potential for tuning. In particular, it's possible to finely tune the
> > double VANOS which results in much bigger gains compared to just altering
> the
> > spark timing and fueling.
> >
> > I heard this from a guy who's recognized as a pro when it comes to
> chiptuning
> > (Chip Logic of RSA). Note that he's only talking about the ECUs, obviously
> the
> > manifold and other changes in the case of the latter BMWs also played
> their
> > part in changing the engine character. I don't want to start a flamewar
> here,
> > just interested to hear some more opinions :-)
> >
> > P
> > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 08:42:15 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '85 535i charging issue
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
d) replace diodes in alternator.
Gary Derian
> On my '85 535 the alternator warning light comes on rather dimly at
> idle. If I rev to ~ 1K rpm light goes out.
> After some freeway time (~10 - 15 mins) this behavior stops for some
> time. Driving in stop and go, the light gets
> a little brighter. The alternator bushings were recently replaced. So
> what do you guys think:
>
> a) Bushing replacement was screwed up.
> b) Battery needs to be replaced.
> c) Alternator needs to be replaced.
>
> Thanks,
> Avi.
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 10:31:25 -0400
From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Heat Storage Reservoir
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I know I'm late to the party on this e-mail, but a couple years ago, when I was
more involved in the automotive industry, we reviewed this concept. They had
decent numbers for cold-start of the engine. The basic technology worked well,
but in the end it comes down to the total cost of the system per car vs. other
systems. It only made sense on certain extreme problem engines.
A competing technology was basically a big hair dryer that hooked up to the cat
and heated it up before you started the car. So, kinda like a glow-plug, you
put your key in the ignition, turn it to start, wait, and then the car starts.
Doug
94 540i with no magic heat resevoir
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of henry butt
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:36 AM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: [UUC] Heat Storage Reservoir
Hi all
A while back, I read that a certain German automaker (
or an after market firm ) offered a heat storage
system for faster engine warm up in sub-zero
temperature conditions by utilizing a few extra
gallons of heated engine coolant stored in a
Thermos-like insulated tank. The hot coolant is
circulated thru the engine block when the car is
restarted after resting for hours ( e.g. going home
after the workday ).
Any one has information on this ?
Henry
(from the Great White North)
______________________________________________________________________
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short
Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 09:43:49 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [E30] 325iX still has steering binding...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Matt, I'm not sure how the drive axles up front complicate things, but here
is what I would do.
Remove the tie rod ends. Now the steering wheel is connected to the rack,
but not to the front wheels.
See if each front wheel turns freely back and forth. Just grab a tire and
rotate it one way and then the other.
If the wheels turn freely, next try the steering. Run the steering wheel
back and forth a few times. Is it binding anywhere in its travel?
If not, then the only thing remaining is the tie rod ends.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:09:17 -0400
>From: matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [E30] 325iX still has steering binding...
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>OK, ever since I replaced my control arms I have had occasional binding
>steering.
>It happens most when cold, but not with any discernable pattern.
>Here are the symptoms it exhibits:
>Stiff steerring off-center.
>Wheel does not return to center, car will turn in circles with hands off
>wheel.
>Stiffness just goes away after a while and returns again.
>It makes no noises, fluid is Amsoil ATF with no big leaks. I add fluid
>every 10,000 miles or so.
>
>I thought it was a blown front Bilstein as it had a slight knock in the
>front.
>I replaced the Bilsteins with Koni Sports Saturday. It was fine for one
>day. This morning it was sticky again.
>I checked everything while the car was apart for the struts and all
>parts look good.
>Strut bearing healthy, all ball joints good, CVs seem good as well.
>
>Any ideas?
>Some say it may be the steering knuckle to the rack...
>
>-Matt
>1991 325iX -> 210,000 and still going!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 09:48:43 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Airbag Surprise!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brett, are you saying that the seat belt in an airbag car allows more
travel in a frontal collision than the seat belt in a non-airbag car? How
does that work exactly? My seat belt locks up all the time upon
deceleration, so I'm pretty sure it is not an issue with the reel lock-up
mechanism. Please enlighten me, and the dozens of others who have already
done this steering wheel swap.
Thanks,
Scottt Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 22:50:36 -0400
>From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Airbag Surprise!
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>If you're not putting the bag back in, don't forget to buy a new seat
belt,
>one for a non air bag car, or you're going to get a steering wheel sized
>imprint in your back muscles, after it comes through your chest, in an
>accident.
>
>Brett Anderson
>KMS
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 10:03:42 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Wiper Wire short
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi Art, the first order of business is to have the ETM for your car. You
need to know which wires to test, and where they go.
I like to do electrical troubleshooting by disconnecting components and
testing each one in relative isolation. The wiper stalk wires travel down
the steering column to a connector under the dash. On my 325i, the
connectors for all the steering wheel switches and such are ganged, that
is, they physically attach to each other. So you'll have to un-attach them
to unplug the wiper wires. Now you can use a VOM to test the switch. See
if any of the switch wires are shorted to ground that should not be. You
will probably have to operate the switch in its various positions while
testing for the short. If the switch is bad, you have to remove the
steering column cover to remove and replace. I think you also have to
remove the steering wheel. (You'd think I'd know more, having just removed
my steering wheel and column cover last week, but hey, I'm old and losing
it.) To re-install the steering wheel, either replace the locking nut or
use LocTite on the old one's threads.
If the switch is OK, then it is either the motor or the wires to the motor.
You can test the wires to the motor from the chassis connector under the
dash where the stalk connector was attached. Again, look for a ground
where there isn't supposed to be one. If you're lucky, you'll find a wire
with the insulation worn off, and you can just splice in a good wire, or
cover it with shrink tubing.
If you have to replace the wiper motor, I recommend just selling the car as
is and getting another one. The bolts that hold the motor in place are
impossible to see or get to. The Bentley manual recommends removing the
entire wiper arm assembly and motor as a unit. As nearly as I can tell,
the entire car was built around the wiper motor, and it was not really
designed to be removed.
Maybe someone more brave and practiced can recommend a better way to do
this. But I'd just sell the car.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Mon, 17 May 2004 20:34:15 -0400
>From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Wiper Wire short
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I have a 1984 E30 318i, with a wiper short someplace. I'm ok with
>troubleshooting the mechanical stuff but the electrical comes to a
different
>level... It is buring out 30 fuses for some reason and I don't know where
>to start to find the issue?
>
>Any help would be appricative.
>
>Art
>1984 E30 318i
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End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
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