The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 214 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate
Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate
Re: still more E36 suspension questions
now I'm getting duplicate messages too
Stealth install of the Valentine 1 radar detector
Re: still more E36 suspension questions
Re: still more E36 suspension questions
Re: Oil Leak (E36)
Patching a hole in the engine
Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Wired News: "Drivers Want Code to Their Cars"
clutch install e28 535i
Trade Mag. Question
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 22:39:08 -0000
From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Scott said:
>
> What kind of bedding in did you do with your Ultimates?
>
Followed the instructions in the box, which IIRC were 8-10 moderate stops
from 35-40 mph. Seems that I should have followed those with a couple of
stand-on-it ABS-activators, because until that happened, they didn't have
much bite.
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 10:39:11 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Was: Anyone Ever Buy From These Companies? Now: Axxis Ultimate
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
There are two kinds of pad bedding. The first wears the pad to the waves in
the rotor. This part should be done with the mild stops as you don't want
to overheat the high spots. After the pads are worn in, the next stage of
bedding is to heat the pads to high temperature as a secondary curing
process. The high heat bakes out the volatiles in the binder and makes the
pad much less susceptible to fading afterwards. Heat the pad to the point
they fade as this indicates the outgassing, then let cool.
I've done this on the highway with heavy braking from about 80 or 90 mph to
about 50 while holding full throttle in 3rd gear. The cooling then happens
at a good pace without any pad material unevenly sticking to the rotor.
Gary Derian
> Scott said:
> >
> > What kind of bedding in did you do with your Ultimates?
> >
> Followed the instructions in the box, which IIRC were 8-10 moderate stops
> from 35-40 mph. Seems that I should have followed those with a couple of
> stand-on-it ABS-activators, because until that happened, they didn't have
> much bite.
>
> Bob
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 00:19:13 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: still more E36 suspension questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian, on the E30 control arms, the offset M3 control arm bushings
primarily add caster. There may be a tiny bit of increased negative
camber, but not enough to be worth talking about. If the E36 control
arms are the same shape, the effect will be the same.
If you don't drive hard in curves that much, you might not want to
swap the strut hats L/R as has been mentioned. OTOH, this might not
be a bad time to start your new autocrossing hobby, eh? :^)
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Sun, 30 May 2004 11:27:00 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: still more E36 suspension questions
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>All,
> I am still putting together my suspension on my 93
>325, and I have yet one more question. As I mentioned
>before, I think I am going to use a set of 98 M3 front
>upper strut mounts, dependent on one thing: camber. I
>also plan to change the control arm bushings later to
>the solid offset E30 M3 bushings (For the usual
>reasons: better turn-in & feel). I am wondering if
>the combination of the 98 M3 mount and the E30 M3
>bushings will put in too much negative camber. With
>the car stock, the built-in negative camber was plenty
>for me, since I don't track or auto-x the car, only
>take a few spirited canyon runs every once in a while.
> Extensive tire wear is my enemy - I would hate to
>have too much camber that the tires would wear out in
>15-20,000 miles (or less, even).
>
>On another note, I really want to thank you all for
>the opinions, recommedations, and advice you've all
>given. Without you I wouldn't be able to do this
>right. :)
>
>Brian
>93 325
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 02:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: now I'm getting duplicate messages too
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hrm, I recall a list member a few weeks ago
complaining about duplicate list messages. Seems I'm
getting them now too, but I don't think every message,
just a few here and there...
Any help here Mike D.? I remember you writing to the
list notifying that member that you took a look at the
logs and saw that there was a problem causing his
duplicate messages. Possibly the same thing here?
Thanks,
Brian
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger.
http://messenger.yahoo.com/
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 10:04:46 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Stealth install of the Valentine 1 radar detector
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I looooove my Valentine 1. I humbly think it's the best radar detector in
the world, no contest. The downside for some people is that it's not
particularly stealthy, especially compared to the fully "installed" option
offered by a couple of competitors. One alternative for a couple of years
was to have the V1 remote display module installed in the rear view mirror.
Nifty concept, but expensive and (IMHO) didn't do a lot for stealthiness, as
it merely relocated the display module from the detector to the mirror - a
shift of a few inches at best - because the detector still needed to be high
mounted on the windshield. A slightly better alternative was to mount the
optional V1 remote display module down low, near the steering column or in
the dash, so that at least the person following wouldn't see the lights at
night.
Well, I just stumbled across this for modern-ish BMW instrument clusters:
http://www.jaricdesign.com/products.htm
http://store.stealth-one.com/index.html
Wow! Now this is a nifty hack of the V1. Simple to install, can operate
using steering wheel buttons, relocates display to OBC/instrument cluster,
and more. And not outrageously expensive either, though not cheap (but
still cheaper than the mirror displays I've seen). Too expensive for me, as
I'm happy with the V1 hard-wired in my BMWs as-is, but it seems like a
worthy option for those looking for a stealthier option.
Anyone have any experience with it? (DISCLAIMER: I have no pecuniary
interest in this display, no financial gain will accrue to me, remove tag
under penalty of law, do not wash with colors, place your seatbacks and
trays in their full and upright positions, etc.)
vty,
--Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 10:21:18 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: still more E36 suspension questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
E30 and E36 bushings are interchangeable from the standpoint that they all
fit in the bushing holder (e.g., lollipop) and they fit the control arm end.
Whether you get the desired effect from exchanging them is another question.
There are two different E36 M3 bushings, one is offset and mostly solid (one
small relief) and originally came on the 1995 E36 M3 (US) and the other one
is centered and mostly solid (two smallish reliefs) and came on the 1996+
E36 M3 (again US).
I am not a fan of adding more caster to E30s or E36s (which will result when
you add the offset bushings), they have plenty to begin with in my opinion.
Adding caster via offset CA bushings also doesn't improve turn-in either
IMO. They will make the car track straighter though (and potentially rub
the fender liner in front like they did on my E30).
Regards,
Rich
95 M3 - original style CA bushings
90 325is - 96+ E36 M3 CA bushings (previously had E30 M3 bushings)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Hood-Douda
> Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 2:32 PM
> To: 'Brian Ruiz'; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] still more E36 suspension questions
>
>
> Brian,
>
> I haven't heard of using e30 solid offset control arm bushings.
> If you meant
> e36, the m3 versions are also solid and offset, but they don't add camber,
> just caster. Which is a good thing for fighting tramlining.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz
> Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2004 11:27 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [UUC] still more E36 suspension questions
>
> All,
> I am still putting together my suspension on my 93 325, and I have yet
> one more question. As I mentioned before, I think I am going to use a set
> of 98 M3 front upper strut mounts, dependent on one thing: camber. I also
> plan to change the control arm bushings later to the solid offset E30 M3
> bushings (For the usual
> reasons: better turn-in & feel). I am wondering if the combination of the
> 98 M3 mount and the E30 M3 bushings will put in too much negative camber.
> With the car stock, the built-in negative camber was plenty for
> me, since I
> don't track or auto-x the car, only take a few spirited canyon runs every
> once in a while.
> Extensive tire wear is my enemy - I would hate to have too much
> camber that
> the tires would wear out in 15-20,000 miles (or less, even).
>
> On another note, I really want to thank you all for the opinions,
> recommedations, and advice you've all given. Without you I
> wouldn't be able
> to do this right. :)
>
> Brian
> 93 325
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 07:37:05 -0700
From: dlseeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: still more E36 suspension questions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Rich,
I was very happy with the effect of the M3 offset bushings on my 89 325.
This was the first mod I made, and within two blocks I was looking for
some cones to dodge. :) I do get tire rub at full lock.
Donna
97 M3a Lux: bone stock commuter appliance
89 325i: bushings, M3 springs, Bilstein Sports & much more fun to drive
88 M3: #41 JP
88 528e: for sale $1600
Rich Dorffer wrote:
>
> I am not a fan of adding more caster to E30s or E36s (which will result when
> you add the offset bushings), they have plenty to begin with in my opinion.
> Adding caster via offset CA bushings also doesn't improve turn-in either
> IMO. They will make the car track straighter though (and potentially rub
> the fender liner in front like they did on my E30).
>
> Regards,
>
> Rich
>
> 95 M3 - original style CA bushings
> 90 325is - 96+ E36 M3 CA bushings (previously had E30 M3 bushings)
>
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 13:37:08 -0500
From: Sam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Oil Leak (E36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm thinking maybe the AC condenser sprung a leak and I'm seeing AC
oil. Is AC oil nearly clear and does it have about the same
consistency as heavy weight engine oil?
Sam
>no oil cooler on your car unless you added it.
>
>The pan could be leaking, the oil filter housing, the sender to the oil
>pressure light, the vanos connection or it could be coming from the back and
>dripping forward, or it could be your power steering hoses.
>
>Marco
>of no help
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sam
>Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2004 10:14 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [UUC] Oil Leak (E36)
>
>
>I noticed a bit of motor oil leaking under the plastic underbody
>cover near the radiator. Not a big leak, small spot in parking lot. I
>couldn't find in my service manual mention of an engine oil cooler
>there. I read somewhere that there is a thermostat that often leaks
>and that can be fixed with replacement O rings.
>
>Anyway I need to pull off the covers to take a look at what's really
>happening and thought I'd check for suggestions before I get my
>hands dirty. Its a 93 model 325i sedan with about 150,000 miles on
>the clock. Leak started soon after an oil change (Mobil one) but I
>don't see any leakage around the filter area.
>
>Thanks
>
>Sam
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 14:20:22 -0400
From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: BMW UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Patching a hole in the engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sorry for the OT post...it's actually in reference to my wife's car,
but I trust the expertise on this list more than any other!
The car is a '98 Volvo V70 wagon. Ever since it was new, there's
been a very slow oil leak (about 1 drip every other day). A couple
years ago, I found the source of this leak when I went to change the
spark plugs: there's a small hole on the top of the engine! You can
see it here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~m3steve/pics/VolvoX70-Hole.jpg
I checked around with a couple Master Volvo techs, and they had seen
this hole before in a couple of cases, but no one knew what it was
for. To make a long story short, I found someone else with the same
problem on the Internet, and they had solved the oil leak by plugging
the hole with a rubber stopper. Two years ago I did the same thing,
and it's been fine ever since. The only problem: every 4-6 months
the rubber stopper pops out of place (the rubber gets hard with
exposure to oil & heat), and I need to replace it with a new $0.86
plug.
That brings me to my question: can someone suggest something I can
use to make a permanent plug? (an epoxy? JB Weld?) The engine is
aluminum, the hole is about 1/2" in diameter by about 1/2" deep.
BMW Content: Yesterday we did the Susan Komen Drive for Breast
Cancer. The X3 was OK, the X5 was dissapointing, but the 545i with
6-speed and active steering was absolutely amazing. What an engine!
What a suspension! Too bad the exterior is ugly and the interior
is cursed with I-Drive. Sport seats are much improved. Can't
imagine what the new M5 will be like. If I had to choose between a
new M3 and a new 545i (yea, like that will ever happen), I'd have to
seriously consider the 545i over the M3 just for it's versatility
and practicality.
Regards,
Steve
'04 330i ZHP (his)
'98 Volvo V70XC w/ factory-installed engine hole option (hers)
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 15:48:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Steve Lilley)
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (BMW UUC Digest)
Subject: Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>From Steve Lilley
>
>Sorry for the OT post...it's actually in reference to my wife's car,
>but I trust the expertise on this list more than any other!
>
>The car is a '98 Volvo V70 wagon. Ever since it was new, there's
>been a very slow oil leak (about 1 drip every other day). A couple
>years ago, I found the source of this leak when I went to change the
>spark plugs: there's a small hole on the top of the engine! You can
>see it here:
>http://home.earthlink.net/~m3steve/pics/VolvoX70-Hole.jpg
How odd...
>I checked around with a couple Master Volvo techs, and they had seen
>this hole before in a couple of cases, but no one knew what it was
>for. To make a long story short, I found someone else with the same
>problem on the Internet, and they had solved the oil leak by plugging
>the hole with a rubber stopper. Two years ago I did the same thing,
>and it's been fine ever since. The only problem: every 4-6 months
>the rubber stopper pops out of place (the rubber gets hard with
>exposure to oil & heat), and I need to replace it with a new $0.86
>plug.
It looks to me like something is supposed to go there. Does the dealer have
an exploded view of the front of that engine that might show what bolts up
there? Perhaps it is an oil return for a turbo?
>That brings me to my question: can someone suggest something I can
>use to make a permanent plug? (an epoxy? JB Weld?) The engine is
>aluminum, the hole is about 1/2" in diameter by about 1/2" deep.
Well, there are three bolts around it, How about an aluminum plate and some
gasket material or RTV? I can't imagine that an open, unfiltered hole into
the crankcase is a good idea...
-- Joe
--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 15:42:07 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The hole is probably metric. Try a freeze plug available at most auto parts
stores.
Gary Derian
>
> That brings me to my question: can someone suggest something I can
> use to make a permanent plug? (an epoxy? JB Weld?) The engine is
> aluminum, the hole is about 1/2" in diameter by about 1/2" deep.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 15:30:11 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Patching a hole in the engine
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
What a weird problem! I am curious if this is supposed to be sine
kind of vent tube or something.
What you might think about using is an "Expandable Tapered SBR Rubber
Plug" that you stick in the hole, then tighten. Would seem that you
can re-tighten to counter any shrinkage. The small end is a little
larger than the .5" you describe, but you might be able to shave it
down a smidge. At about $2.50, it's no bargain compared to your 86�
solution, but it might cure the problem permanently:
http://www.mcmaster.com/asp/enter.asp?pagenum=3480
- Rob Levinson
---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [UUC] Patching a hole in the engine
>Sorry for the OT post...it's actually in reference to my wife's car,
>but I trust the expertise on this list more than any other!
>
>The car is a '98 Volvo V70 wagon. Ever since it was new, there's
>been a very slow oil leak (about 1 drip every other day). A couple
>years ago, I found the source of this leak when I went to change the
>spark plugs: there's a small hole on the top of the engine! You can
>see it here:
>http://home.earthlink.net/~m3steve/pics/VolvoX70-Hole.jpg
>That brings me to my question: can someone suggest something I can
>use to make a permanent plug? (an epoxy? JB Weld?) The engine is
>aluminum, the hole is about 1/2" in diameter by about 1/2" deep.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:00:50 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wired News: "Drivers Want Code to Their Cars"
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
http://www.wired.com/news/autotech/0,2554,63615,00.html
Drivers Want Code to Their Cars
By Julia Scheeres
02:00 AM May. 31, 2004 PT
Rachel Seymour, a college student from Portland, Oregon, has had her 2002
Kia Spectra serviced 12 times for a Check Engine light problem. Each time,
she's forced to take it to a Kia dealership, where a technician hooks her
car up to a computer, runs a battery of tests and charges her $120 to
diagnose and repair the same problem: a loose gas cap.
Seymour said she has no problem screwing a gas cap into place, and that the
light has even come on while she's driving home from getting her car
serviced. But the dealership has stubbornly stood by its computer diagnosis,
saying the car's sensors are detecting vapors from a loose gas cap and
triggering the Check Engine light -- a "consumer error" that is not covered
under the car's warranty.
Fed up with wasting time and money, Seymour resorted to a low-tech solution
to mask the high-tech problem: She covered the warning light with electrical
tape so she wouldn't have to look at it.
"There is really no time in my schedule for sitting around a car dealership
listening to some fat guy in a clip-on tie tell me that the problem is my
fault," she said. "Instead of explaining anything to me they just pull out a
warranty sheet with a highlighted portion indicating that they don't cover
Check Engine light problems."
A bill floating through Congress could help people like Seymour by forcing
automakers to share diagnostic codes with car buyers and independent
mechanics. The Motor Vehicle Owners' Right to Repair Act would give Seymour
the means to determine whether the Check Engine light signaled another gas
cap vagary or a major oil leak. The legislation would also allow Seymour to
choose an independent -- and possibly cheaper -- repair shop instead of
being forced to go to the dealership.
The legislation argues that consumers own their vehicles in their entirety
and should be able to access their onboard computers. Just how the codes
would be released to car owners isn't addressed, but possibilities include
publishing them on CDs or websites, or requiring carmakers to create
indicator lights that would pinpoint problems instead of lumping them
together under the generic Check Engine-type warnings, said David Parde,
president of the Coalition for Auto Repair Equality, a group representing
independent mechanics.
The bill, which was presented in both the House and the Senate, would
require the Federal Trade Commission to supervise the data disclosure and to
mediate disputes.
Automakers oppose the legislation because they fear it would compel them to
release proprietary codes that detail how different automotive components
are made. These calibration codes would allow independent parts
manufacturers to copy components that cost millions of dollars to develop,
they argue.
Carmakers agreed to release the diagnostic codes online in August 2003 in an
attempt to pre-empt the legislation, but many manufacturers have not fully
cooperated, said Parde.
"We're auditing these sites and there are huge gaps in the data," he said.
"The legislation is necessary to make sure they keep their word. Right now,
they could just turn all the information off tomorrow."
Charles Territo, spokesman for the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers, a
group representing the major carmakers, said the delay is due to the
complexity of modern cars.
"Each model contains hundreds of codes," he said. "It's a huge undertaking
to take every vehicle and to put every single code on the Internet. As we
find gaps, we are filling them in."
Computerized cars came on the market full throttle in 1996 after the passage
of the Clean Air Act, which required onboard diagnostic systems to regulate
exhaust emissions. Manufacturers quickly expanded cars' computing power to
control additional functions ranging from airbag deployment to power
steering.
According to the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers, today's cars have up
to 50 microprocessors managing engine performance -- meaning the computing
power in the average Toyota Camry is 1,000 times more complex than the
system that guided Apollo 11 to the moon.
But carmakers have kept a tight grip on access to automotive computers,
forcing consumers to get their vehicles serviced at dealerships when
independent repair shops can't access the car's brain.
Historically, non-dealer shops have performed 75 percent of vehicle service
and repairs, according to the automakers' own statistics. Independent shops
charge that automakers are trying to muscle in on this lucrative business --
which some analysts estimate at $200 billion a year -- by increasing
computer functions in cars and restricting the access keys.
Neighborhood garages must pay to download the diagnostic codes from
automakers' websites and purchase pricey scanners to communicate with
automotive computers. Nevertheless, independent mechanics are frequently
forced to turn away longtime clients because so many of the codes are
unavailable for late-model cars.
"A lot of these cars say 'code undefined' and require the dealer's scan
tool," said Sam Giammalvo, who works at his family shop in New Bedford,
Massachusetts. "It upsets independents like me because we're losing service
dollars and it makes us look unprofessional in the eyes of our customers."
Ermino Caporole, the owner of P&E Auto in Morton Grove, Illinois, said he
has separate scanners for each car model, but still loses 10 percent of his
business to dealerships because of the information blackout. On several
occasions, he has had to tow a customer's car to a dealership after
realizing he couldn't access the codes.
Some weekend wrenches have bought scaled-down versions of the scanners used
by auto shops to tinker with their engines. Jay Hamill, a PC technician from
Macedon, New York, spent several hundred dollars on a product called
AutoXray to perform checkups on his 1994 Ford Bronco, but said the device
has saved him money on repairs.
"Knowing the problems that the computer is reporting can help keep you from
getting ripped off by a shady mechanic or dealer," he said. "But this does
require some automotive knowledge, something that most people just flat-out
refuse to learn."
The scanner only lets Hamill decipher trouble codes and clear them. Other
tools, such as the Hypertech Power Programmer, let consumers modify their
cars' computer settings to increase horsepower and torque.
Bryan Hanks, who has taken his 2002 Toyota Prius to his local Houston
dealership four times since a single sensor malfunctioned and the Check
Engine signal prevented him from using the car's electronic display, said
automakers should incorporate USB ports in dashboards to allow consumers to
download error messages to a laptop.
"If this occurs again once the vehicle goes out of warranty, I'm going to
have to fork over $90 or so to have the error message reset by the dealer,"
he said.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 16:33:28 -0600
From: "r.mackrill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: clutch install e28 535i
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Earlier my concern over the drop down height re: removal of the exhaust
system became a non issue
by dropping the stabilizer bar.
To remove shift lever unlock bearing retaining ring by a quarter turn
cc. I get an eighth turn using long
needle nose pliers then hit the wall. What has to happen to create success.
Randy in Regina
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 20:08:32 -0400
From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Trade Mag. Question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi,
This may be a stupid question, but is there a good trade magazine for
subscription with regards to BMW?
Thanks
Art
318i '84 E30
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
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