The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 205 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Dealer recommendation - DC area
  Alignment Shop in NNJ
  E36 inside rear view mirror
  Re: E36 inside rear view mirror
  Re: insurance company underwriting 101 - part 2
  Re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
  Re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
  Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
  Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response
  Re: Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response
  Another new car "feature" that falsely triggers the V1...
  7mm flare-nut wrench (was: Updating the toolbox)
  Re: Updating the toolbox
  Re: Updating the toolbox
  Geico / private insurance (was Re: Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 20:19:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dealer recommendation - DC area
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

For Sales? New/used?  Service?



> On Sun, 23 May 2004 14:45:00 -0400, "Carey Probst" wrote:

> 
> Can anyone recommend a good or warn against a bad dealer in the Washington, DC area, 
> preferably in
> the Silver Spring/Rockvill MD area or others that may be worth going out of the way 
> to get to.
> 
> TIA
> 
> 
> 
> Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam
> BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters
> JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
>   
> 
> 
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR 
Vienna, VA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 21:21:14 -0400
From: "Harold Spingarn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Alignment Shop in NNJ
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Guys,

Now that I've completed task of the replacing of the RTABS, along with GC
shims, (the old bushings were toast)I'm looking for an alignment shop in my
area. Anyone know of a shop in the Watchung/Scotch Plains/Fanwood area that
does this type of work? I think I'm pretty close to spec, as I spray painted
the console bolts and consoles before disassembly. (thanks, Barry)
I'm trying to get this done by a local shop so I don't have to make this a
major logistical production.

TIA,

Harold Spingarn
'72 2002tii
'96 M3 (in need of rear toe check)

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 19:00:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E36 inside rear view mirror
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My rear view mirror fell off last week, so I bought
one of the glue kits to put it back on.  However, I
can't figure out how to get off the disc that the
mirror mounts to so that I can glue it back to the
windshield.  I see three small cutouts on the
circumference of it as if there for a grip to unscrew
it from the mirror, but I can't seem to get it loose. 
In the center of the grooves just below the disc I see
small little metal fingers that make it seem that the
whole thing just snaps into the mirror housing.  So,
there are two ways it seems the disc might come out. 
I don't want to break anything or scratch it up any
more than I already have, so anyone know how to get
this darn thing off?

Brian
93 325


        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 22:10:20 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 inside rear view mirror
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Rotate the piece that mounts to the windsheild, about 60 degrees.

The piece that is glued to the glass is a flattened triangle, that is, it
has 6 sides, three much larger than the other three.  The mirror has the
same cut out, at about a 60 degree rotational difference.  You mate the two,
then rotate the mirror, to secure.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> My rear view mirror fell off last week, so I bought
> one of the glue kits to put it back on.  However, I
> can't figure out how to get off the disc that the
> mirror mounts to so that I can glue it back to the
> windshield.  I see three small cutouts on the
> circumference of it as if there for a grip to unscrew
> it from the mirror, but I can't seem to get it loose.
> In the center of the grooves just below the disc I see
> small little metal fingers that make it seem that the
> whole thing just snaps into the mirror housing.  So,
> there are two ways it seems the disc might come out.
> I don't want to break anything or scratch it up any
> more than I already have, so anyone know how to get
> this darn thing off?
>
> Brian
> 93 325
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 23:30:33 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mark and Heather Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: insurance company underwriting 101 - part 2
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Rich Dorffer wrote:
>
> " I have been with the same insurance agent/company for ~15 years.
>    Over the past five years, here are my claims "

Written by Mark Williams >

> Rich.. sorry to hear about your nonrenewal with Erie
> Insurance..  I recommend you contact an underwriter
> with Erie to discuss your individual situation.. It's
> very possible that they did not have you marked as
> being not at fault in one of your previous losses.
> Aside from a simple clerical error, I agree, a single
> loss in the last 5 years does not seem to merit a
> nonerenewal.

My agent, who I have had a very good relationship with, did speak to an
underwriter at my request after my recent accident because I wanted to know
what might occur with my rates as a result of my first "at fault" accident
in the past five years.  I was surprised to find out I was being dropped, I
thought it would be a potential rate increase.

> I do find it interesting that you made a statement
> about the amount of insurance you paid over the
> years... An insurance policy is not a savings plan,
> or a comparison between premiums collected and
> dollars paid out..

It is for the insurance company, it is a business last I checked, and they
are in business to collect more money than they pay out.  My comment was
simply during the past five years, I had paid in more than double what they
had to pay out for me.  So, even though I had some claim frequency (4 out of
5 which weren't my fault other than being a driver on the road), I had
likely benefited the insurance company over the past five years (the period
they are supporting the decision to drop me).  The ten years prior to that
was particularly good for them.

> Your premiums simply give you
> coverage for that policy period, for either
> damage to your own vehicle or damage to property
> owned by others, up to the dollar amount of coverage
> you selected.

I fully understand that.

> Once the policy period is over, the
> premiums you paid for that period are gone... daddy
> gone...  Indeed, if you experienced no losses,
> then the insurance company profited... however,
> had you sustained a loss, the insurance company
> would have held up their end of the bargain,
> spending up to the policy limits (or beyond) to
> pay for the loss or defend you...  Once the policy
> period has ended, you, and the insurer each have
> the option to renew the policy..

I understand that as well.  Hence, why I am shopping my insurance now.  My
agent has other agencies that will insure me but I will find out for myself
what is available.

> Again, I highly recommend you contact your agent and
> speak in person with an underwriter at Erie.. if
> their definition of  "claim frequency" includes
> claims in which you were not a fault.. there may
> be others here who may wish to know this about
> Erie.. .. Hopefully you can follow up and report
> back to the list..

Yes, they had four of those five claims as "not at fault" like I previously
stated, they didn't care is essentially what he told me as I questioned it
specifically (along with the individual amounts they paid out on those
claims).  That information that I previously stated was based on my
conversation with my agent and what he had discussed with the underwriter.
My agent was as displeased with it as I was since he is losing a customer as
well.  Not only that, I pulled my other insurance that I was working to
place with him since it won't make sense to have it with him without the car
insurance.

On a related note, I told one agent with Erie that I was going to fight the
citation for the "failure to yield" as I had some evidence that may support
my case in a court of law.  They basically told me that they didn't care
what might occur in court or whether I was not found guilty of the citation,
they had done their own investigation and "they had found me to be at
fault".  Needless to say, once I knew that my insurance company had already
"convicted me", I didn't pursue it in court since all I had to gain was
saving the $81 fine/court costs.

Anyone who wants to question anything I said is more than welcome to call my
agent directly, his name is Tim Vaughn, Vaughn-Mumaw Insurance
(330-682-0396).

Regards,

Rich - insurance shopping...


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 23:44:31 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Does this also aplly to the 318ti's, as they share much with both the E30 and thr 
Z3????

David in RIchmond, VA

-----Original Message-----
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: May 21, 2004 9:26 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???


there are several threads on the M/Z3 coupe message
board on Roadfly.org as well as bimmerforums IIRC.
I suspect that by now someone has consolodated the
various owner's specific issues into one web page
somewhere, not unlike the E46 M3 engine failure
page which got a lot of visilibity as that whole thing
evolved.

from what I read it doesn't affect all cars, happens
to different degrees and is met with varying responses
from dealers when it is brought to their attention.

it's pretty easy to inspect the car for the problem as
part of a pre-purchase inspection and in most cases
the repairs seem to be pretty straighforward if they
are caught early and repaired by a competent welder.

I've never heard of similar problems on E30's, which
is interesting but perhaps not unexpected, since there
are a lot more M/Z3's with a lot more power than
most E30's.  then again there are lots of racers who
subject their E30's to lots of abuse & I'm not aware
of similar problems with the subframe in those situations
either.



Ben


Dave Meyer wrote:

> As recently reported on M Coupe web site http://www.368s.com :
>
> "There have been a number of reports of the subframe and/or differential
> tearing in Coupes and Roadsters. While the cause is not completely
> known, it's clear that the separation issue is affecting a number of owners."
>
> Is this an isolated occurance, something that will happen to all Z3's
> eventually, entirely dependent on usage, or what? Does anyone have
> any further insight? Thank you very much!

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 23:59:37 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Maverick wrote:

> Does this also apply to the 318ti's, as they share
> much with both the E30 and thr Z3????

see my follow-up post to this one with links to pics
of an M coupe failure for my thoughts on why
this doesn't happen to heavily tracked E30's.

the subframe & suspension is the same, but the
floorpan of the E30 & 318ti & Z3 are different and
I think that's where the problem is.

also, unless you've swapped a much bigger motor
into your ti, you're not dealing with anything approaching
the torque of the MZ3, so I'd say you're not likely
to have any problems at all.

I put over 2,000 track miles on my E30 w/3.2l US M3
motor and have no distress anywhere in the rear
suspension, running stock 318ti subframe bushings.



Ben


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 22:45:56 -0500
From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mr. McVaugh..

I *love*  it when the great unwashed  like to point out that
insurance companies  want to make a  profit, as if it's
some sort of indictment.....

Hellooooooo.... anybody home...  (apparently not)
Can you please define what a BUSINESS is? 
Can you please tell me what BUSINESS is out to LOSE money?
 
With regards to  your comments,  . It's clear to me that you have very
 little knowledge of  how insurance companies make their money...
You need to come sit at the front of the classroom!   Please explain
how insurance companies "discriminate" and how they can determine
 if their policyholders own a gun or a radar detector..?

Mr. Lawrence... in addition to the above..  please.. reread my 
previous  post..  I am well aware of the tiered levels for policyholders at
Allstate..  State Farm, Farm Bureau,  and many other major insurance
companies  do the same..  Each of these companies separates their drivers
into different groups with different premium structures.. the  better the
driver, the better the rates..  It's not rocket science.. and of course I am
sure that better drivers appreciate that they can pay less than drivers who
do not have as good a driving record..     Drivers in one group or another
can be moved up or down according to their driving record or nonrenewed
alltogether.     <yawn>  ...

Mark Williams
Dallas, TX
claim rep by day...



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 00:14:29 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mr. Williams,

Please get a hold on yourself, you needn't make personal attacks.  I 
make none toward you. I was not aware (and do not believe) that you were 
a noted authority on the subject of automobile insurance and that no 
other opinions or explanation could be offered to the readership.

I bathe regularly.

My last name is MacVaugh.

I earned an MBA at an accredited university. One of my classmates 
(political mentor and friend) is the Insurance Commissioner for the 
State of Maryland. I know what a business is. Businesses whose aim is 
service but are not for profit are called non-profit organizations.  The 
American Red Cross, United Way, National Rifle Association all come to 
mind. A number of insurance companies like to suggest to their policy 
holders that they are not for profit and are owned by the policy holders 
and return any upaid money to the policy holders. Others are stock 
companies and make a profit for shareholders.

I am also a licensed attorney. I have represented clients before 
Administrative Law Judges when their insurance companies attempted to 
raise their premiums or refused to renew coverage as a result of claims 
or traffic offenses.

I cited examples of discrimination in my post. Geico lost my business 
when they asked about gun ownership and asked me to pledge that I didn't 
own a radar detector.

Ed



Mark and Heather Williams wrote:

> Mr. McVaugh..
>
> I *love*  it when the great unwashed  like to point out that
> insurance companies  want to make a  profit, as if it's
> some sort of indictment.....
>
> Hellooooooo.... anybody home...  (apparently not)
> Can you please define what a BUSINESS is? Can you please tell me what 
> BUSINESS is out to LOSE money?
>
> With regards to  your comments,  . It's clear to me that you have very
> little knowledge of  how insurance companies make their money...
> You need to come sit at the front of the classroom!   Please explain
> how insurance companies "discriminate" and how they can determine
> if their policyholders own a gun or a radar detector..?
>
> Mark Williams
> Dallas, TX
> claim rep by day...



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 09:49:06 -0500
From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Ed...

Apparently you need to work on your slang  .... (great unwashed)
I guess they don't teach that when you get you an  MBA.. ;-)
Sorry about the misspelled name, but there was no personal attack...
It's nice to hear  that you bathe regularly though... <g>
There's only ONE insurance company that I will talk badly about...
That's GEICO...   NO self respecting car enthsiast should support
that company...   The fact that you used them, well.... not so good.. :-(
Many years ago, Car and Driver  had an article about that company..
It should be required reading for every sports car enthusiast group..


Mark Williams
Dallas, TX
91 ///M3 2.5L


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 00:55:16 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Another new car "feature" that falsely triggers the V1...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I love the Valentine V1.  I own two of them, I think it's the best
revenue-payment-avoidance product available.  Anything else is a
waste of money and www.radartest.com is a corrupt and bribed website
with an "agenda".  But that's another story.

What I dislike is the indiscriminate use of various light frequencies
by various automakers that trigger the V1.  It's not the V1's fault,
it's the automakers.

False bogeys already known that trigger laser alert:

- GM SUV third brake light

- BMW Z8 xenon headlights (you'd think if any maker were sensitive to
this, it would be BMW... the company that installed a radar detector
holder as standard equipment in the E30 cabrio!).

The new offender: Infiniti FX45 laser-assisted cruise control.  Had
this happen on the way down to TechFest week before last, kept
getting zapped from behind.  I was certain the FX45 xenon headlights
weren't causing it because it was almost random... guess it was each
time the driver re-engaged the cruise control.  Didn't twig until I
saw the commercial today crowing about this feature.  On the
flipside, I do smell an opportunity for a completely legitimate
laser-jamming device!  "But officer, I had the cruise control set at
55mph.  94mph?  Impossible!"

- Rob



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 08:38:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: 7mm flare-nut wrench (was: Updating the toolbox)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Fri, 21 May 2004, Howard Siegel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Where can one get a good quality, but not outrageously expensive
>set of flare nut wrenches that go down to 7mm?  I've only recently
>started looking and can only find them down to 9mm.

I've never found one either, so I just use closed end of a 7mm
combination wrench.  6-point is ideal, but 12-point works too if
you bleed your brakes as often as I do and there's no chance the
bleed screw will be frozen.

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 09:48:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Fri, 21 May 2004, ben keyes wrote:
> strangely enough it doesn't look like Snap-On has flare wrenches smaller
> than 8mm.  nor does Sears.  tho I guess once you get the bleeder open
> the first time if it's really tight you shouldn't need too much torque
> to open it in the future.  I've not had too much trouble with a normal
> box-end wrench for that sort of thing.

Ok, not that I'm some BMW master mechanic or something, but the general 
rule of thumb I've always used for flare nut wrenches is to only use them 
when forced to.

If you can get a box end wrench on there (and you can), use that.  Flare 
nut wrenches don't have anywhere near the rigidity of a box end...

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 10:01:16 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


hmn.  the Snap-On flare wrenches that I have a look just as robust
looking as the box-ended ones I've seen, so I don't think they're
any less strong.

I'd be very wary of using something other than a flare wrench
first when you're working with a hard brake line, since if you
mess up the flare nut with a normal wrench, you're screwed
and have to resort to more extreme methods to remove it.
use the right tool for the job - flare nut = flare wrench.



Ben

Mark Andy wrote:

> Ok, not that I'm some BMW master mechanic or something,
> but the general rule of thumb I've always used for flare nut
> wrenches is to only use them when forced to.
>
> If you can get a box end wrench on there (and you can),
> use that.  Flare nut wrenches don't have anywhere near
> the rigidity of a box end...


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 11:01:30 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Geico / private insurance (was Re: Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The "Geico Gun" article - Geico providing free lidar guns to police
municipalities, for the thinly-veiled purpose of giving their
policyholders tickets, therefore increasing their rates.

That's every bit as corrupt as a mechanic putting sand in your
crankcase oil to get more business when you need an engine rebuild.

No wonder they can afford the expensive CGI gecko in their ads. 
Their customers pay for it.

Mark, what's involved in a private "insurance union"?  Think we could
get enough people together here and on the UUC Garage list?

- Rob

---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  Insurance Ed MacVaugh's response
Date: Mon, 24 May 2004 09:49:06 -0500

>Ed...
>
>Apparently you need to work on your slang  .... (great unwashed)
>I guess they don't teach that when you get you an  MBA.. ;-)
>Sorry about the misspelled name, but there was no personal attack...
>It's nice to hear  that you bathe regularly though... <g>
>There's only ONE insurance company that I will talk badly about...
>That's GEICO...   NO self respecting car enthsiast should support
>that company...   The fact that you used them, well.... not so good..
>:-(
>Many years ago, Car and Driver  had an article about that company..
>It should be required reading for every sports car enthusiast group..
>
>
>Mark Williams
>Dallas, TX
>91 ///M3 2.5L




------------------------------

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