The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 196 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  E34 cabin blower - low speeds cut out when AC on
  Re: Shipping Large items
  Re: Airbag Surprise!
  Re: '85 535i charging issue
  Re: E36 OBDII crankshaft position sensor recall, was: E36 misfire
  Z3 for sale
  Re: <Misc>Copycat motorsport wheels?
  Re: Heat Storage Reservoir
  Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
  Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
  Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
  Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
  Re: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
  Re: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
  Color-sanding my BMW...Need advice/tips

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 21:56:26 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E34 cabin blower - low speeds cut out when AC on
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi listers, a little problem has cropped up now AC weather has arrived.

Our trusty '92 525iA's ventilation fan dies after a few minutes operation 
when using the 1-2-3 fan speed positions _and_ the AC is on. It seems to 
cut off more quickly at higher outside ambient temps (greater than ~80F) 
than at lower temps. It doesn't cut off at all when the AC is NOT on.

The fan works again when switched to full speed (pos 4.) After perhaps 30 
seconds lowering the fan speed to any position 1-3 and low speeds are 
again working. Cycle continues, after a couple more minutes at low speed 
the fan will shut off again, whereupon switching to high speed restores 
coolth.

If when fan dies at low and I don't switch the fan to high, the low speed 
fan will kick on again by itself after a few minutes.

The AC itself seems to be working OK, or at least cools nicely when the 
system fan is blowing. BTW, the system was converted last summer to 
R-134, with a new compressor, expansion valve and drier installed.

I've got the Bentley manual, and perusing the wiring chart I see for the 
three low speeds a typical resistor grid which includes a thermal cutout, 
plus a direct full-voltage bypass for fan high speed. I assume the 
thermal cutout is either detecting an unacceptably hot condition, or the 
thermal cutout is faulty and sees a fault where there is none.

I'm happy to replace the thermal cutout/resistor grid, however before 
doing so I'd like to know if there are any other issues of which I should 
be aware.

TIA,

Dan Kraeuter

92 525iA 178K
85 Golf  818K
76 2002  135K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:20:48 -0400
From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Shipping Large items
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

kyle asked
> Well it seems that I have run into a problem. I have a
> box that is 67x18x42 inchs with a set of bumpers in
> them. UPS and FedEX show that this is to big of a item
> to ship ground.

I have shipped bumpers no problem via greyhound (way cheaper than fedex/ups
also)

max size (from the US website) is 30"x47"x82" which means your package is no
problem


they don't ship across borders though, not sure where your package is going


chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'99 z3 2.8


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:18:55 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Airbag Surprise!
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

1. As was pointed out by several others, I spoke too soon.  E30 did not get
the air bag/non air bag belts.  So ignore my previous comment.

2. Your current question, later cars got a "softer" belt.  There was a
change in the webbing that did allow the belt to stretch further. It has
nothing to do with the inertia reel mechanism.  The webbing stretches
further, knowing that the air bag will catch you.  Lessens bodily damage
caused by the belt, which can be quite severe.



> -----Original Message-----
> Brett, are you saying that the seat belt in an airbag car allows more
> travel in a frontal collision than the seat belt in a non-airbag car?  How
> does that work exactly?  My seat belt locks up all the time upon
> deceleration, so I'm pretty sure it is not an issue with the reel lock-up
> mechanism.  Please enlighten me, and the dozens of others who have already
> done this steering wheel swap.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scottt Miller
---
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 22:20:54 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '85 535i charging issue
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Check for a voltage drop on the ground cable that runs from the alternator
to the engine block.  The age of the car suggests that this cable will be in
poor condition.  At a $10 list price from BMW, it's probably worth replacing
as a precaution anyway.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----

> On my '85 535 the alternator warning light comes on rather dimly at
> idle. If I rev to ~ 1K rpm light goes out.
> After some freeway time (~10 - 15 mins) this behavior stops for some
> time. Driving in stop and go, the light gets
> a little brighter. The alternator bushings were recently replaced. So
> what do you guys think:
>
---
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Version: 6.0.516 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 9/1/2003


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 00:38:07 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 OBDII crankshaft position sensor recall, was: E36 misfire
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Re: [UUC] E36 OBDII crankshaft position sensor recall, was: E36 misfire:
Chris,  The sticker placed on the strut tower after the recall was done 
says, "Crankshaft Position Sensor Campaign No. 99E-A01".
This recall included an ECU remap that in the //M3 subjectively felt 
zippier than before.
hth,
Barry

Chris Pawlowicz wrote:

>barry
>thanks for the info- you don't happen to have the recall # do you?
>thanks
>chrisP
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 8:09:51 -0400
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Z3 for sale
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

posting for a friend:

1999 Z3 coupe 2.8 
Boston Green/Beige/Black. 
In Louisville, KY. 
19,000 miles. 
VIN # 4USCK533XXLE95002, 
Sept 1998 build. Corbeau Seats, stock motor. 17" Radius R6 Wheels. All Mobil 1 at 3000 
mile intervals. 
Hate to sell... really, really hate to sell, but I need a tow vehicle for my race car. 
New Lower Price! 
John Ackerman: 502-819-0935; or [EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 08:39:29 -0400
From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <Misc>Copycat motorsport wheels?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I bought a set of Contour copies for my old M3.  Ending up replacing 2
of the wheels less than a year after buying them due to bending.  They
are not very strong.   

I have seen other cheap wheels like the ones shown have issues with the
clear coat peeling off.  It basically becomes un attached next to the
spoke, then dirt starts to build up underneath the raised area, creating
an eye sore that cannot be cleaned.  I believe the owner peeled off most
of the clear coat and then polished the rest off.  The end result was
ok, but took him hours to fix.  

That is a good price, but just budget bending 1 or 2 over the course of
30k miles.  Plus, in a few years you might not be able to buy a matching
wheel. 

Mike

-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
-> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2004 7:49 PM
-> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> Subject: [UUC] <Misc>Copycat motorsport wheels?
-> 
-> 
-> Any comments on these wheels? or similar models "cast in 
-> Italy?"  I love the forged motorsport look, but can't stand 
-> that OEM price.  Going to email the seller to see if they 
-> can be more specifics about the manufacturer.
-> 
http://tinyurl.com/25m7p

Just wish I'd jumped faster at those $1k FM 10s a couple months back.

TIA

Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


________________________________________________________________________
__
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 .
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 08:46:50 -0400
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Heat Storage Reservoir
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Doug,
You're not as late to the party as I am!
Anyway, I'm familiar with a unit similar to what Henry suggested.  I
can't for the life of me remember who made it however so I'm probably
not of much help.  I used one of these to store hot coolant (about ~5
liters IIRC) after shut down and circulate it through the engine for
quicker warm up.  I did zero testing to determine how much impact it had
during warm up, but I do know that after 12 hours the ~5L of coolant was
still roughly 30 degrees (F) above cool ambient temperatures.
The design intent of the unit was really to dump that still warm coolant
into the heater circuit of the cooling system to provide passenger
compartment heat for driver comfort.
The thermal reservoir system had it's own electric pump to continue
circulating fluid briefly after shut down and we set it up to expel the
warm coolant on key-up before starting.
Sorry I'm not more help on the issue, I'll see if I can dig up more
information. 
Henry, such a unit does (or did) exist as of ~6 years ago.  Who knows if
they are still around?
Chet Dawes


Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 10:31:25 -0400
From: "Doug Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Heat Storage Reservoir
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I know I'm late to the party on this e-mail, but a couple years ago,
when I was
more involved in the automotive industry, we reviewed this concept.
They had
decent numbers for cold-start of the engine.  The basic technology
worked well,
but in the end it comes down to the total cost of the system per car vs.
other
systems.  It only made sense on certain extreme problem engines.

A competing technology was basically a big hair dryer that hooked up to
the cat
and heated it up before you started the car.  So, kinda like a
glow-plug, you
put your key in the ignition, turn it to start, wait, and then the car
starts.

Doug
94 540i with no magic heat resevoir

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of henry butt
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 2004 11:36 AM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: [UUC] Heat Storage Reservoir


Hi all

A while back, I read that a certain German automaker (
or an after market firm ) offered a heat storage
system for faster engine warm up in sub-zero
temperature conditions by utilizing a few extra
gallons of heated engine coolant stored in a
Thermos-like insulated tank. The hot coolant is
circulated thru the engine block when the car is
restarted after resting for hours ( e.g. going home
after the workday ).

Any one has information on this ?

Henry
(from the Great White North)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 07:33:51 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

GGC member Gary Porter bought a Laguna Seca blue M3 a couple of years
ago.  He even let me drive it, but since it was still being broken in,
I could not rev it up into the Happy Range of the tach.  But I
digress.  After a couple of autocrosses, he stopped coming, and I've
not heard from him since.

Here's my theory:  Laguna Seca blue M3s are possessed.  Once the owner
becomes comfortable with their new car (a few thousand miles?), one
day the internal demon surfaces and eats the owner while the car is
still parked in the garage.  The owners and their cars are never seen
again.

Where are Scully and Mulder when you need them?

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 11:57:20 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Andre Yew <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: White BMWs Was: Where are all the Laguna Seca M3s?
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>This past weekend's driving school at Las Vegas Speedway given by the
Sin
>City Chapter had no LS Blue M3s, but there were a few Alpine White
M3s, as
>well as an Individual Blue Water Metallic (kind of like Silverstone
Blue
>on the M5), along with the usual silver, black, and Carbon Black
examples.
>Imola Red is also quite popular, as is the dark grey color.  I was
>wondering about where all the LSB M3s went, too --- I barely see any
on
>the street.  Perhaps they're embarassed about their color choice?
>
>--Andre




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 07:37:17 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mark, it depends, how long do you go between tune-ups?

My cars need an Inspection I or II about every 18K miles or so.  I'm
glad I don't have to replace my sensor that often, at $85 plus tax
each.  Mine isn't an E36, but the oxygen sensors are pretty much the
same.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i w/ new oxygen sensor, last one had less than 40K miles

>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 14:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: O2 sensor as tune up part?
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Howdy,
>
>Anyone know if O2 sensors are a normal tune up part for a '93 325
motor?
>I'm experiencing sluggish power compared to other cars...
>
>On other vehicles I've worked on, every now and then an O2 sensor
would
>work well enough to not throw a code, but still needed to be changed.
Is
>the 02 sensor on a '93 325 a lifecycled part?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mark




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 07:25:20 -0700
From: "Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'UUC Digest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Mark and listers,

On our '95 325i I replace the plugs about every 36K miles (Inspection II).
I've only replaced the O2 sensor once at ~100K miles as a preventative
measure. No fault codes indicated a need for one. Saw no improvement in mpg
or detectable performance. Was averaging 25.6mpg before, same after.

FWIW..

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Scott & Charlotte
Miller
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2004 7:37 AM
To: UUC Digest
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] O2 sensor as tune up part?

Mark, it depends, how long do you go between tune-ups?

My cars need an Inspection I or II about every 18K miles or so.  I'm glad I
don't have to replace my sensor that often, at $85 plus tax each.  Mine
isn't an E36, but the oxygen sensors are pretty much the same.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i w/ new oxygen sensor, last one had less than 40K miles

>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 14:21:38 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: O2 sensor as tune up part?
>Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Howdy,
>
>Anyone know if O2 sensors are a normal tune up part for a '93 325
motor?
>I'm experiencing sluggish power compared to other cars...
>
>On other vehicles I've worked on, every now and then an O2 sensor
would
>work well enough to not throw a code, but still needed to be changed.
Is
>the 02 sensor on a '93 325 a lifecycled part?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mark



Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short
Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 11:33:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: O2 sensor as tune up part?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Wed, 19 May 2004, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote:
> Mark, it depends, how long do you go between tune-ups?
> 
> My cars need an Inspection I or II about every 18K miles or so.  I'm
> glad I don't have to replace my sensor that often, at $85 plus tax
> each.  Mine isn't an E36, but the oxygen sensors are pretty much the
> same.

This is a car we purchased with 126k on the clock, now its at 140k (in 
less than a year... :-)  Its chipped, intake, exhaust.  Its a combo daily 
driver / STX autocross car.

The car seems to feel a little flatter than it did before, the mileage has
dropped off a couple according to the computer, and it also doesn't feel
as powerful as other STX E36 bmw's with similar setups.  Since we've
gotten it, I've done a bunch of various maintenance stuff, but have yet to
change the plugs/wires (does the car even have wires or are they direct
ignition?), though I have changed the fuel filter.

In the next couple weeks I'll get around to installing the plugs I bought 
a couple months ago, along with an O2 sensor.  I'll probably also do a 
compression test, just to see where things stand.

Thanks for the info!

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 07:43:37 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

jedinite, I've been watching the Roundel and newspaper ads for E39
M5s.  $50K is about the lowest price I've seen.  I don't think your
friend is going to be able to be very picky about color and options if
he or she is serious about a low price.  And, of course, CPO cars are
going to have higher prices.

Good luck,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:53:45 -0500
>From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>Being the "car nut" I am, i'm always getting drafted to help friends
and
>co-workers make vehicle buying decisions.
>
>Right now I'm helping a friend trying to buy a 2000 or 2001 e39 M5.
>Fellow enthusiast who is pretty particular about what he wants...
>
>Looking for a 2000 or 2001 model in the $40k - $50k range.  Slightly
>flexible on price outside that range for something stellar.
>
>Really wants it in either LeMans Blue or Imola Red, with the
respective
>two-tone interior to match.  Would consider other colors that flow
well
>with the two-tone interior (silver with the black/silver comes to
mind,
>or possibly carbon black with the blue/black interior).
>
>Strongly prefers a car with Park Distance Control, and would prefer
the
>chrome/satin trim over the wood, but these items aren't dealbreakers.
>
>Anyone have any leads on a car that fits the profile?  I've been
through
>eBay, cars.com and BMWUSA's CPO site, and have found a couple
potentials
>but we're still looking for more.
>
>Any digesters waiting for the e60 M5 that are ready to unload their
e39,
>that want it to go to a good home?
>
>Thanks!
>
>~jedinite




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 10:04:01 -0500
From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Just about every ad I notice in the Roundel is accompanied by a too-high
price tag :-)

I did an advanced search on cars.com and found 171 E39 M5s listed ranging
from $74k to $22k (salvage car) to $15k (price mistake?). There are probably
20-30 cars listed for $40-50k.

At the time I got mine, I got a good deal on a CPO M5 with phone, K40
RADAR, extended free maintenance, and 9k miles. Good thing I am not trying
to sell it now with these prices.

Dennis
01 M5 silver/black


At 07:43 AM 05/19/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>jedinite, I've been watching the Roundel and newspaper ads for E39
>M5s.  $50K is about the lowest price I've seen.  I don't think your
>friend is going to be able to be very picky about color and options if
>he or she is serious about a low price.  And, of course, CPO cars are
>going to have higher prices.
>
>Good luck,
>
>Scott Miller
>GGC BMW CCA
>
> >Date: Tue, 18 May 2004 17:53:45 -0500
> >From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: WTB: 2000 or 2001 e39 M5
> >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >Being the "car nut" I am, i'm always getting drafted to help friends
>and
> >co-workers make vehicle buying decisions.
> >
> >Right now I'm helping a friend trying to buy a 2000 or 2001 e39 M5.
> >Fellow enthusiast who is pretty particular about what he wants...
> >
> >Looking for a 2000 or 2001 model in the $40k - $50k range.  Slightly
> >flexible on price outside that range for something stellar.
> >
> >Really wants it in either LeMans Blue or Imola Red, with the
>respective
> >two-tone interior to match.  Would consider other colors that flow
>well
> >with the two-tone interior (silver with the black/silver comes to
>mind,
> >or possibly carbon black with the blue/black interior).
> >
> >Strongly prefers a car with Park Distance Control, and would prefer
>the
> >chrome/satin trim over the wood, but these items aren't dealbreakers.
> >
> >Anyone have any leads on a car that fits the profile?  I've been
>through
> >eBay, cars.com and BMWUSA's CPO site, and have found a couple
>potentials
> >but we're still looking for more.
> >
> >Any digesters waiting for the e60 M5 that are ready to unload their
>e39,
> >that want it to go to a good home?
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >~jedinite
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 2004 09:06:24 -0700
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Color-sanding my BMW...Need advice/tips
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Group,
 
I'm about to color sand a 94 3 series and was curious as to whether or not
anyone has some tips/tricks to doing this.  I will be following the steps
below and if this is not the procedure to follow, please let me know.
 
1.  Wash (obviously)
2.  Lightly wet-sand the car using 1500 grit sandpaper
3.  Using 3M rubbing compound, machine buff the car
4.  Using 3M polishing compound, machine buff the car
5.  Using a good wax (Zymol), machine buff the car
 
Have I missed anything?
 
Chris


------------------------------

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