The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 199 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: smog test
  Re: smog test
  accident: I got whacked
  H&R, Eibach springs
  Re: H&R, Eibach springs
  Re: H&R, Eibach springs
  Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
  Re: e39 FACTORY UPDATE- COMPLETED
  Updating the toolbox
  Re: Updating the toolbox
  E30 Differential ratios - M42 motor
  Re: Color sanding compounding
  Re: recalls in general
  Car rentals
  Software update V22 to V23

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 20:23:57 -0700
From: "Jay Schwegmann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: smog test
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

___________ snip ____________

> Rolling road tests capture transient conditions.  Steady state is very
easy
> to pass.
> Gary Derian
>
>
>
> > SMOG check II is done on a rolling road.  The SF Bay area went to smog
> > II this year due to complaints that all the pollution from the Bay area
> > was blowing into the central valley.   It's supposed to be a more
> > accurate check of emission than Smog I
> >
> > Marco




I get the rolling test... but I didn't have that done to my car last week
when it was smogged.  Why are some cars put on the dyno and others not?
Area?  Age of vehicle?  It's not clear to me what makes one car have to be
put on the dyno and others not....

FWIW there ain't "that" much pollution from us coastal monkeys... er tree
huggers... whatever.

Jay Schwegmann
94 325is
95 318i
74 914 (maybe where the smog comes from)



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 22:02:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mike Hsu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: smog test
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

It's the area where you get tested determines if you
get the dyno test or not.  As far as I know LA and SF
bay area gets it.  In LA, a beatiful day is when I can
almost see the Hollywood sign from school.  ;) LOL

Mike
--- Jay Schwegmann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I get the rolling test... but I didn't have that
> done to my car last week
> when it was smogged.  Why are some cars put on the
> dyno and others not?
> Area?  Age of vehicle?  It's not clear to me what
> makes one car have to be
> put on the dyno and others not....
> 
> FWIW there ain't "that" much pollution from us
> coastal monkeys... er tree
> huggers... whatever.
> 
> Jay Schwegmann
> 94 325is
> 95 318i
> 74 914 (maybe where the smog comes from)
> 
> 
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 2004 20:30:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: dinty44 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: accident: I got whacked
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I just got hit in the right rear buy a Toyota
SUV.  It only damaged the bumper and right tail
light assembly.  Anyone know where I could
possibly buy a used (cheap) tail light assemly
for a 1995 540i ?

Thanks,
David Moore
1995 540i -> lightly bruised


        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 00:31:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: H&R, Eibach springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi all,
  As I start in on the 3rd week of waiting for my ONE
LAST backordered Bilstein Sport shock from BavAuto, I
am spec'ing the rest of the suspension components for
my E36, and I'm now comtemplating my spring choices. 
I have heard really good things about both the Eibach
Pro-Kit and the H&R springs.  However, I don't know
much about the fit/finish of each of the respective
kits, and how they differ from one another.  I have
researched some, but can't find any good information. 
I have found the supposed amount of drop for some of
the springs, but I don't know how that translates into
how they make the car look.  I noticed that for the
H&R springs, there are the H&R "sport", as well as "OE
sport."  How do these differ from one another in
stiffness and amount of lowering?

Also, how much difference is there in stiffness and
amount of lowering between the Eibachs and the H&Rs? 
I definitely don't want the wheels to be pushed inside
of the fender wall, but I do want it to be a bit lower
and to really improve the handling.

All input, opinions and otherwise, are greatly
appreciated.

Brian
'93 325


        
                
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 14:07:08 +0200
From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: H&R, Eibach springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi,

Have a look at this review:

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/testing.html

Pavel
'94 320i -- Bilstein & Eibach coming soon :->

On Fri, May 21, 2004 at 12:31:29AM -0700, Brian Ruiz wrote:
> Hi all,
>   As I start in on the 3rd week of waiting for my ONE
> LAST backordered Bilstein Sport shock from BavAuto, I
> am spec'ing the rest of the suspension components for
> my E36, and I'm now comtemplating my spring choices. 
> I have heard really good things about both the Eibach
> Pro-Kit and the H&R springs.  However, I don't know
> much about the fit/finish of each of the respective
> kits, and how they differ from one another.  I have
> researched some, but can't find any good information. 
> I have found the supposed amount of drop for some of
> the springs, but I don't know how that translates into
> how they make the car look.  I noticed that for the
> H&R springs, there are the H&R "sport", as well as "OE
> sport."  How do these differ from one another in
> stiffness and amount of lowering?
> 
> Also, how much difference is there in stiffness and
> amount of lowering between the Eibachs and the H&Rs? 
> I definitely don't want the wheels to be pushed inside
> of the fender wall, but I do want it to be a bit lower
> and to really improve the handling.
> 
> All input, opinions and otherwise, are greatly
> appreciated.
> 
> Brian
> '93 325

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 06:51:34 -0700
From: "Mike Hood-Douda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: H&R, Eibach springs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Brian,

I can speak to the H&R product a bit as I've had them in two different BMWs,
'69 1600ti and our current '95 325i.

F&F of our H&Rs was top notch. Nicely powder coated, shipped in a box
designed to keep them from banging on each other during transit. Admittedly
ours are now 8 years old so I can't speak to H&Rs current quality control.
We have around 100K miles on them.

Regarding the drop & how the car looks, I'll forward a shot of our '95 325i
with Bilstein Sports & H&R Sport springs for reference.

The OE Sport is designed to be used with Bilstein HD shocks/struts or other
similar product that have standard travel. The Sport is designed to work
with the Bilstein Sport and it's reduced travel. Using H&R sports with
Bilstein HD or OEM shock/struts will result in eventual shock/strut failure.
I learned this from experience.

The fronts have a minimal symmetric amount of gap between the fender arch
and the tire. Since the rear fender arches are not arcs but flatten at the
top, the rear tires will be a bit "inside of the fender wall". The photos
will show you this as well.

Much firmer ride than the stock sport package springs/shocks/struts.

Hopefully some one will have photos of the Eibach look on the e36 for you to
compare. 

Cheers,

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz
Sent: Friday, May 21, 2004 12:31 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [UUC] H&R, Eibach springs

Hi all,
  As I start in on the 3rd week of waiting for my ONE LAST backordered
Bilstein Sport shock from BavAuto, I am spec'ing the rest of the suspension
components for my E36, and I'm now comtemplating my spring choices. 
I have heard really good things about both the Eibach Pro-Kit and the H&R
springs.  However, I don't know much about the fit/finish of each of the
respective kits, and how they differ from one another.  I have researched
some, but can't find any good information. 
I have found the supposed amount of drop for some of the springs, but I
don't know how that translates into how they make the car look.  I noticed
that for the H&R springs, there are the H&R "sport", as well as "OE sport."
How do these differ from one another in stiffness and amount of lowering?

Also, how much difference is there in stiffness and amount of lowering
between the Eibachs and the H&Rs? 
I definitely don't want the wheels to be pushed inside of the fender wall,
but I do want it to be a bit lower and to really improve the handling.

All input, opinions and otherwise, are greatly appreciated.

Brian
'93 325


        
                
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Domains  Claim yours for only $14.70/year
http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 06:51:07 -0400
From: Dave Meyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Z3 / M Coupe Subframe Tearing ???
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

As recently reported on M Coupe web site http://www.368s.com :

"There have been a number of reports of the subframe and/or differential
tearing in Coupes and Roadsters. While the cause is not completely
known, it's clear that the separation issue is affecting a number of owners."

Is this an isolated occurance, something that will happen to all Z3's
eventually, entirely dependent on usage, or what? Does anyone have
any further insight? Thank you very much!

Dave Meyer
99 328is  (considering an M coupe)
03 FLHRI
Stafford VA


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 04:59:28 -0700
From: dlseeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: e39 FACTORY UPDATE- COMPLETED
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Dennis,

This is a factory update - no cost to you. Just call ahead to make sure 
the part is in stock and schedule the work.

Donna
Service Advisor,
BMW of Fremont (Calif.)

Dennis Liu wrote:
> Norman, I presume this is NOT a factory recall, and if we have it done to
> our cars, we'll have to pay for it?  Or is BMW offering some sort of
> accomodation?
> 
> thx,
> 
> --Dennis
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of lieb923
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 12:22 PM
> To: BMW e39; UUC GARAGE; UUC DIGEST
> Subject: [UUC] e39 FACTORY UPDATE- COMPLETED
> 
> 
> OK boys & girls here is the lowdown as I know it. Bracketed comments are
> mine.
> On certain e39 (model run unknown to me) there is an "Update" aka recall to
> reinforce the area I would call the spring perch. BMW calls them "spring
> clips" They are beefy aluminum castings which sit on the outboard side of
> the front strut. They clamp to the front strut and under the spring. There
> is a notch in the spring perch where the casting fits.
> 


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:40:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Updating the toolbox
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have a relatively complete E30-focused toolbox at
the moment, with wrenches and sockets of 8, 10, 12,
13, 14, 17, and 19mm plus special items like the 5mm
allen driver for rotor screws and a 36mm socket for
front wheel bearings.

I also have an E36 that's now out of warranty, so
this perhaps provides an excuse to buy new tools.
Are there any particular common sizes I should consider?
I'm not up for swapping transmissions or engine rebuilds,
but shocks, rotors, brakes, fluid changes, and other
routine maintenance are in my league.

Thanks!

steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 15:25:39 +0200
From: Pavel Tcholakov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Updating the toolbox
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

7 mm allen key for the brakes (btw why is it so difficult to find this one?). I
think there's also another funny-sized allen key used for the gearbox and diff
drain/fill plugs, I think 14 mm but not sure.

P

On Fri, May 21, 2004 at 08:40:03AM -0400, Steve.Goldstein wrote:
> I have a relatively complete E30-focused toolbox at
> the moment, with wrenches and sockets of 8, 10, 12,
> 13, 14, 17, and 19mm plus special items like the 5mm
> allen driver for rotor screws and a 36mm socket for
> front wheel bearings.
> 
> I also have an E36 that's now out of warranty, so
> this perhaps provides an excuse to buy new tools.
> Are there any particular common sizes I should consider?
> I'm not up for swapping transmissions or engine rebuilds,
> but shocks, rotors, brakes, fluid changes, and other
> routine maintenance are in my league.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> steve
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
> 
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:47:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Steve.Goldstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: E30 Differential ratios - M42 motor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Speaking of diffs..

My '91 318is has the 4.10LS.  What other options exist for
this car?  I believe the M42 car diffs aren't the same size
as those for the 6-cylinders.

Thanks.

steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:00:11 -0400
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Color sanding compounding
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


From: "David A. Leonard"
"masked the  hard edges
before buffing/compounding, as it is very (ask me why I had this
discussion
with him) easy to burn thru the paint on a corner, crease, or edge of
the car."

Great advice because it's much easier to ruin the paint than it is to
improve the car's "complection".  I'd recommend masking the trim and
things like mirrors, etc. too because the edge of a buffing wheel (and
the abrasive compound) is moving faster than the center and tends to
very quickly damage those pieces if the operator gets too close.

From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"I've been told that color sanding only works on cars without a clear
coat
over the paint and I thought that all 1994 BMWs had clear coat."

Kevin, you've been led to believe false information.  Clear coats can
respond very well to 'color sanding'.  But it depends on the end goal of
the exercise.  If you're trying to remove paint contaminants, surface
scratches, orange peel texture, etc. these can be accomplished even with
a clear coat very effectively.  Even 'faded' (not peeling or destroyed
finishes) clear-coat paint can respond to color sanding/buffing although
it won't 'work' like lacquer finishes used to and won't respond quite as
well as acrylics.

Chris Marino wrote:

> 2.  Lightly wet-sand the car using 1500 grit sandpaper
> 3.  Using 3M rubbing compound, machine buff the car
> 4.  Using 3M polishing compound, machine buff the car
> 5.  Using a good wax (Zymol), machine buff the car


I would however recommend using the highest number (finest "cut") sand
paper you can stand to remove whatever imperfections you're trying for.
1500 is a little coarse for my taste, but it requires less elbow grease
I guess.  Lots more room for error and more work to get a fine polish
when you're done sanding.  Also, there are multiple grades of rubbing
and polishing compounds in the 3M line for various levels of 'cut' and
finish.  You'll likely need a step 3.1, and maybe a 3.2 step in your
above procedure to really get a good quality surface finish.

It takes a lot of practice to do it well, but there is only way to
obtain experience.......
I've burned through my share of paint learning how to properly use a
buffer.  Good think my first few attempts were on cars worth about as
much as what a Maaco re-paint would have cost me.  ;)

Chet Dawes

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:58:57 -0400
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: recalls in general
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Talk about the E39 recall makes me wonder about general policy around payment for 
recalls.  Which ones does BMW pay for? My specific question is around the E36 
crankshaft sensor, which I think is a recall item.  It's running OK, but I'd rather 
change it proactively than have it fail on the road like it did in my last E36.

Are recalls paid for? vs. Bulletins (Software updates)  which aren't?

Marc plante
e36 m3/4
E36 325i (for sale)
Vienna, va
-----Original Message-----
From: dlseeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 04:59:28 
To:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC]  e39 FACTORY UPDATE- COMPLETED

Dennis,

This is a factory update - no cost to you. Just call ahead to make sure 
the part is in stock and schedule the work.

Donna
Service Advisor,
BMW of Fremont (Calif.)

Dennis Liu wrote:
> Norman, I presume this is NOT a factory recall, and if we have it done to
> our cars, we'll have to pay for it?  Or is BMW offering some sort of
> accomodation?
> 
> thx,
> 
> --Dennis
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of lieb923
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2004 12:22 PM
> To: BMW e39; UUC GARAGE; UUC DIGEST
> Subject: [UUC] e39 FACTORY UPDATE- COMPLETED
> 
> 
> OK boys & girls here is the lowdown as I know it. Bracketed comments are
> mine.
> On certain e39 (model run unknown to me) there is an "Update" aka recall to
> reinforce the area I would call the spring perch. BMW calls them "spring
> clips" They are beefy aluminum castings which sit on the outboard side of
> the front strut. They clamp to the front strut and under the spring. There
> is a notch in the spring perch where the casting fits.
> 

Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]


__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.

UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


Sent using my BlackBerry 6510 from Nextel...Internet, email, phone and Direct Connect 
on one device 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 08:48:07 -0500
From: "Roberts, Clarence H Mr TACOM-RI" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest (E-mail)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Car rentals
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I will be flying in for a San Francisco-Gold Rush Country trip planned for
the Memorial Day Holiday weekend and would like to drive something besides
the usual rent-a-car.  No Ferraris, just something interesting.  Any
recommendations for out of the ordinary car rental firms in SF?


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 09:57:04 -0400
From: "Tom" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Software update V22 to V23
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I had updated the Nav software in my 2001 740 with the V22 update.
After reading about some of the improvements using V23, I decided to
install the update V23.
Everything went ok except that the V23 disc said that I had the current
update
8 10. That is the same number as the V22 update.
Does anyone know why the software version is staying the same.
I am trying to get rid of the Accept screen and get the common street names
to display.
Thanks,
Tom


------------------------------

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