The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 405 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Re: E36 wheel question
Re: E36 wheel question
P21S wheel cleaner
Re: P21S wheel cleaner
interior stylin'
Fwd: Brake light switch
Re: Fwd: Brake light switch
stock oil pressure sender on E36...
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 19:19:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Any advice on a ballpark cold tire pressure to start
> at?
Figure if you want them somewhere around 40-43 psi hot then start them
at about 32-35 cold. Maybe some of the racers that have E36s and have
run Hoosier S04s will comment. But that's a place to start and adjust
after your first session.
>How do R's differ from street tires in terms of
>the effect of pressure changes on handling
>characteristics?
Probably not as significant as on a street tire, but if you get the
pressures totally wrong on an R compound tire you'll wear them out
really fast.
BTW that's kind of a big jump going from street tires to a Hoosier
compound race tire. I'm not even sure what makes them a GAC spec vs
the regular S04 either so you'll definitely have to do some figuring
out of your own. Good luck and have fun, R compounds are a hoot.
Carlos.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 20:13:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I recognize that it's a big change. I had a set of
used A032R's that I was going to use first, but then I
came across these and couldn't resist. I've been
running only street tires for four years now, and
enough's enough.
Anyone care to venture a guess at a percentage lap
time improvement from Yoko AVS Intermediates to a
Hoosier slick? I will post results when I get back
from NHIS tomorrow.
By the way, when I was having these mounted today, the
tire guy was curiously looking on both sides of the
sidewall. I heard him mutter, "I don't see a DOT
label..." :-)
Thanks for the pressure info, Carlos.
Neil
--- Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
> BTW that's kind of a big jump going from street
> tires to a Hoosier
> compound race tire. I'm not even sure what makes
> them a GAC spec vs
> the regular S04 either so you'll definitely have to
> do some figuring
> out of your own. Good luck and have fun, R
> compounds are a hoot.
>
> Carlos.
>
>
>
>
>
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 09:48:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyone care to venture a guess at a percentage lap
> time improvement from Yoko AVS Intermediates to a
> Hoosier slick? I will post results when I get back
> from NHIS tomorrow.
Percentage lap improvement? I've never heard anyone ask it that way.
It depends on the driver, there are people that can't squeeze out the
extra performance out of a Hoosier vs a Toyo RA1 or a Kumho Victoracer.
I would put it in terms of seconds, a Hoosier may be 1-2 seconds
faster per lap than a Toyo or Kumho. Either of these may be the same
1-2 seconds faster than a street tire or more. Some of it I'm sure
depends on your car's setup (neg. camber, toe, etc).
> By the way, when I was having these mounted today, the
> tire guy was curiously looking on both sides of the
> sidewall. I heard him mutter, "I don't see a DOT
> label..." :-)
If you're attending a driver's school which has rules in place about
DOT tires and they check they may tell you those tires are not allowed.
I had to go thru great lengths once to get a set of DOT tires to use
at a track with a chapter. A different chapter (same track) didn't
care at all as I saw two-three different cars running slicks and they
were all students.
Carlos.
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 15:31:26 -0400
From: "Michael" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
-> -----Original Message-----
-> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
-> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Carlos Lopez
-> Percentage lap improvement? I've never heard anyone ask it
-> that way. It depends on the driver, there are people that
-> can't squeeze out the extra performance out of a Hoosier vs
-> a Toyo RA1 or a Kumho Victoracer.
Your kidding? I never would have known there are people out there who
couldn't squeeze that last little bit out of a Kumho. Lol.
-> I would put it in terms
-> of seconds, a Hoosier may be 1-2 seconds faster per lap than
-> a Toyo or Kumho. Either of these may be the same 1-2
-> seconds faster than a street tire or more. Some of it I'm
-> sure depends on your car's setup (neg. camber, toe, etc).
Hoosiers tend to be the fastest from the beginning, but after 20 mins,
supposedly the Toyo comes into it's own or doesn't fall off like the
Hoosiers do. I have no experience with Toyo's, but that is the word from
the top E36 guys.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 18:53:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hoosier GAC tire pressures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I only referred to percentage improvement because,
without familiarity with a particular track, I didn't
think it was feasible to ask for "# of second" guesses
from people. It wasn't really that serious of a
question anyhow... :-)
In the end, though, since they ran a different track
configuration today, I was unfortunately unable to get
any comparative times. Subjective impression,
however, was WOW!
Neil
--- Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> --- "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Anyone care to venture a guess at a percentage lap
> > time improvement from Yoko AVS Intermediates to a
> > Hoosier slick? I will post results when I get
> back
> > from NHIS tomorrow.
>
> Percentage lap improvement? I've never heard anyone
> ask it that way.
> It depends on the driver, there are people that
> can't squeeze out the
> extra performance out of a Hoosier vs a Toyo RA1 or
> a Kumho Victoracer.
> I would put it in terms of seconds, a Hoosier may
> be 1-2 seconds
> faster per lap than a Toyo or Kumho. Either of
> these may be the same
> 1-2 seconds faster than a street tire or more. Some
> of it I'm sure
> depends on your car's setup (neg. camber, toe, etc).
>
> > By the way, when I was having these mounted today,
> the
> > tire guy was curiously looking on both sides of
> the
> > sidewall. I heard him mutter, "I don't see a DOT
> > label..." :-)
>
> If you're attending a driver's school which has
> rules in place about
> DOT tires and they check they may tell you those
> tires are not allowed.
> I had to go thru great lengths once to get a set of
> DOT tires to use
> at a track with a chapter. A different chapter
> (same track) didn't
> care at all as I saw two-three different cars
> running slicks and they
> were all students.
>
> Carlos.
>
> __________________________________________________
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> protection around
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> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:09:16 -0400
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 wheel question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
And only a VERY FEW 16s. Usually figure only 17+ are sure to fit over
the brakes.
*************************
> 15" will NOT fit an E36 M3.
>
> Neil
>
> --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I'm pretty sure the smallest wheel size for E36 M3
> > is 16".
> >
> > Marco
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
> > Of
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 4:58 PM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: [UUC] E36 wheel question
> >
> >
> > Gruppe,
> >
> > I have a set of OEM 15 inch wheels with Toyo P205R60
> > tires on Ebay at
> > the moment
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7928729341&rd=
> > 1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT
> > if anyone's interested.
> >
> > My question comes from an interested shopper. Since
> > I don't know
> > anything about M3's I brought this to the collective
> > wisdom of this
> > group in hopes someone here knows. Will these
> > tires/wheels fit a 1997
> > M3?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your help.
> >
> > Phil
> > 92 E36M50
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 08:20:10 -0500
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 wheel question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks all for the info. I didn't think they would fit but didn't want
to knock myself out of a sale if they would.
Phil
92 E36/M50
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 wheel question
> And only a VERY FEW 16s. Usually figure only 17+ are sure to fit over
> the brakes.
> *************************
> > 15" will NOT fit an E36 M3.
> >
> > Neil
> >
> > --- Marco Romani <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > I'm pretty sure the smallest wheel size for E36 M3
> > > is 16".
> > >
> > > Marco
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf
> > > Of
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Sent: Friday, October 22, 2004 4:58 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: [UUC] E36 wheel question
> > >
> > >
> > > Gruppe,
> > >
> > > I have a set of OEM 15 inch wheels with Toyo P205R60
> > > tires on Ebay at
> > > the moment
> > >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7928729341&rd=
> > > 1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT
> > > if anyone's interested.
> > >
> > > My question comes from an interested shopper. Since
> > > I don't know
> > > anything about M3's I brought this to the collective
> > > wisdom of this
> > > group in hopes someone here knows. Will these
> > > tires/wheels fit a 1997
> > > M3?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for your help.
> > >
> > > Phil
> > > 92 E36M50
>
>
> Search the
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
__
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW
CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:10:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: P21S wheel cleaner
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey all,
I bought a bottle of P21S wheel cleaner when I bought
my BBS wheels a few months ago. I got the regular
liquid cleaner, and it works great, as long as I wash
them frequently. However, I sometimes find I can't
wash the wheels as frequently as I'd like. I was
looking into picking up the 5 liter jug of cleaner,
but I am wondering if I should go for the gel cleaner
instead of the liquid, since I can't clean them so
often. Is the gel a stronger formula at all, or the
same exact thing just thicker? What would you guys
reccommend, or more accurately, which do you use?
On a related note, I need some new brake pads and
rotors in the next couple thousand miles too, and I
was thinking of either some Axxis Ultimates, or some
of the Pagid black street pads. I heard they were
crazy messy pads, but I want a strong stopping pad
with low noise, so I therefore must sacrifice the low
dusting. The OEM Textar pads are good for my use and
work great with the set of Ate Power Discs that I have
(I only do hard street driving and an occasional
canyon blast) but I am interested in finding a new
pad. Call me insane, but I actually don't mind
squeaky brakes (as long as it's not garbage truck
squeaky), if I can find a low dusting pad that has
good stopping power. I would rather clean once every
3-4 weeks and have a squeaky pad than have a high
dusting pad.
Thanks,
Brian
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 02:17:26 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: P21S wheel cleaner
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Brian,
I use the P21S gel. The primary difference is that it is thicker and stays
put better. I use it exclusively on wheels I am careful with.
I like the Ferodo euro pads for the street (but they are dusty) and I have
them on my 1990 325is. They are every bit as good or better than the Textar
and Jurids which are great street pads. For low dust, the Axxis Ultimates
are a good solution (but won't stop quite as effectively IMO as the Ferodo
or Jurid or Textar) and I have a set for my E36 M3 but have barely used
them.
Regards,
Rich
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 2:10 AM
> To: UUC Digest
> Subject: [UUC] P21S wheel cleaner
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> I bought a bottle of P21S wheel cleaner when I bought
> my BBS wheels a few months ago. I got the regular
> liquid cleaner, and it works great, as long as I wash
> them frequently. However, I sometimes find I can't
> wash the wheels as frequently as I'd like. I was
> looking into picking up the 5 liter jug of cleaner,
> but I am wondering if I should go for the gel cleaner
> instead of the liquid, since I can't clean them so
> often. Is the gel a stronger formula at all, or the
> same exact thing just thicker? What would you guys
> reccommend, or more accurately, which do you use?
>
> On a related note, I need some new brake pads and
> rotors in the next couple thousand miles too, and I
> was thinking of either some Axxis Ultimates, or some
> of the Pagid black street pads. I heard they were
> crazy messy pads, but I want a strong stopping pad
> with low noise, so I therefore must sacrifice the low
> dusting. The OEM Textar pads are good for my use and
> work great with the set of Ate Power Discs that I have
> (I only do hard street driving and an occasional
> canyon blast) but I am interested in finding a new
> pad. Call me insane, but I actually don't mind
> squeaky brakes (as long as it's not garbage truck
> squeaky), if I can find a low dusting pad that has
> good stopping power. I would rather clean once every
> 3-4 weeks and have a squeaky pad than have a high
> dusting pad.
>
> Thanks,
> Brian
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: interior stylin'
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Gruppe,
A few weeks back I saw a picture of the interior of
someone's car on this list...(I realize how vague that
is), but I noticed a suede shift boot, and I really
liked it. Does anyone have a source for these (and
parking brake boot too, if possible?) Both boots on
my E36 are torn, and I'm interested in some new ones.
Thanks,
Brian
93 325
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 15:27:48 -0700
From: Ping Gordo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fwd: Brake light switch
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Thanks for all the tips to diagnose my errant switch. I finally traced
> it to a corroded bulb carrier contact. Cleaned it up, plugged the bulb
> in and it works now. I hate getting on my back and working underneath
> the dash. I have dreams of the wires coming to life and strangling me
> while I'm down there. ;-0.
>
> Pingger
>
> On Monday, October 11, 2004, at 01:16 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
>> Pingger, two questions:
>>
>> 1. When you step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights come on?
>> Don't
>> depend on the check control light to tell you, do a visual
>> verification.
>> If the lights come on, then the switch is not bad.
>>
>> 2. If not, can you get the lights to come on by shorting the leads
>> at the
>> switch? If so, then it is the switch.
>>
>> Scott Miller
>> GGC BMW CCA
>>
>>> Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 19:24:08 -0700
>>> From: Ping Gordo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> Subject: Brake light switch
>>> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>
>>> I replaced the brake light switch yesterday and as soon as I got
>>> done,
>>> I tested the new switch but it still has the same "brake light
>>> failure"
>>> message. What are the chances that the brand new switch I installed
>>> is
>>> bad too or should I start looking somewhere else? All suggestions
>>> welcome.
>>>
>>> TIA
>>>
>>> Pingger <----- scratching head (maybe because of dandruff)
>>
>>
>>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 18:39:22 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fwd: Brake light switch
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Just in case anyone ever checks these archives:
On an E36, just because the brake lights work properly doesn't mean that
the switch is OK. These switches for check control have two sets of
contacts, one for the check control and one for the lights themselves.
One set of contacts can go bad without the second one being faulty.
The contacts for the check control aren't designed to carry as much
current as the actual light contacts and fail more often.
Thus, the lights can indeed, and sometimes do, light properly with a
"bad" switch.
My recommended troubleshooting technique for these cars is to inspect
and clean all of the lights, including the third high mounted one,
inspecting the bulb carriers as well as the bulbs themselves and the
mating contacts on the housings. Then replace the switch.
Ed
Ping Gordo wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all the tips to diagnose my errant switch. I finally
>> traced it to a corroded bulb carrier contact. Cleaned it up, plugged
>> the bulb in and it works now. I hate getting on my back and working
>> underneath the dash. I have dreams of the wires coming to life and
>> strangling me while I'm down there. ;-0.
>>
>> Pingger
>>
>> On Monday, October 11, 2004, at 01:16 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>> Pingger, two questions:
>>>
>>> 1. When you step on the brake pedal, do the brake lights come on?
>>> Don't
>>> depend on the check control light to tell you, do a visual
>>> verification.
>>> If the lights come on, then the switch is not bad.
>>>
>>> 2. If not, can you get the lights to come on by shorting the leads
>>> at the
>>> switch? If so, then it is the switch.
>>>
>>> Scott Miller
>>> GGC BMW CCA
>>>
>>>> Date: Sun, 10 Oct 2004 19:24:08 -0700
>>>> From: Ping Gordo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>>> Subject: Brake light switch
>>>> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>>>
>>>> I replaced the brake light switch yesterday and as soon as I got done,
>>>> I tested the new switch but it still has the same "brake light
>>>> failure"
>>>> message. What are the chances that the brand new switch I installed is
>>>> bad too or should I start looking somewhere else? All suggestions
>>>> welcome.
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>>
>>>> Pingger <----- scratching head (maybe because of dandruff)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> Search the
> ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
>
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2004 21:48:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: stock oil pressure sender on E36...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
So I removed a set of BMP guages from our '93 325is and was all set to
pull the oil pressure sender to give to the guy I'm trading the guages
to...
...except that instead of an oil dist. block, a stock sender, and a vdo
sender, what I found was a right angle adapter block with a single sender
with two leads on the back... Anyone know what the scoop is on that? Is
that a normal BMP part? At idle after the motor is pretty hot sometimes
the stock oil light flickers... Perhaps the sending unit isn't the same
spec as a stock one?
Anyway, if anyone happens to have a stock oil pressure sender laying
around, I could use one. And if you have more insight as to what BMP's
guage setup is/was, that'd help as well... This stuff was all on the car
when I got it.
Thanks!
Mark
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages)
**********
